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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • brainage2brainage2 Member Posts: 24
    Hi

    Has anyone bought the 2014 Accord Hybrid ...not the Plug In . If so please share the deal you got.

    regards
    Brainage2
  • seachellaseachella Member Posts: 2
    Built a 2014 Accord Sedan EX-L V6 with the Honda Satellite-Linked Navigation System, added on remote start and back up camera/sensor thingy. My dealer came back and said that with tax title and license it would be 33,895.81. On the honda website it gave me a price of 33,927. When I asked why only the small difference they said it included labor for the remote start and back up sensor. To me they haven't marked the car down that much. I am new to this process and do not want to be taken advantage of. Could you please give me your thoughts, opinions, and or suggestions on how to lower the price? Or is the right on target? Is it really necessary for a back up sensor? I drive my cars till they drive or get hit my a deer and the body shop has to put it up on the frame rack......
    I had a 2008 Accord EX-L V6 with remote start, premium sound system and insurance wouldn't total it estimate to fix was 9320.02. The insurance company is going by retail price which they said was around $15,300 and the dealership is going by trade in $10,000, which is causing all kinds of confusion for me. The dealership has another 2008 EX-L V6 with 20k miles less and asking for $15,900. My car is in excellent condition except for the deer damage.
    Please and Thanks in advance.
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    I know it always sounds crude, but take 15 mins and read back into this forum for a month or two.

    As a point of reference, I just bought an EXL V6 (NO Nav) for 26,999 + TTL. So 33,927 sounds, well, horrible. Sounds like that is STICKER price!

    I mean I know we need some buyers to pay close to sticker to help subsidize the rest of us who are trying to buy these cars for zero profit to the dealer, but if you've found this board then you should be smart or motivated enough to do a little work and you can probably save yourself thousands of dollars.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    Auto-sport ........ Bridgeport N.J.

    Hamilton............Honda

    speak only to int/ managrs when your ready to buy.

    Your leverage will be buying this model the last 2 days last, day of this month. Nov is a slow month for car dealerships with thanksgiving week and holiday travel hurting sales.

    Finding the dealership that is below there sales quota this month will result in a Invoice price to maybe a below invoice price. Otherwise if you could get the hybrid at Invoice price you have done good. New jersey is not a good selling area right now.

    A Supply and demand vehicle.... You will not receive pricing like the 2014 Accords have been selling unless you go online and see what dealers have many on there lots. Then you have a shot at much better pricing.

    Good luck

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • zigster38zigster38 Member Posts: 117
    I'm looking hard at picking up one of these, but I'm going to wait till December, just to see if the dealers can come off of MSRP. Some dealers want way over MSRP for the only one sitting on the lot. Going to have to get more inventory before any deals can be cut.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Zigster

    you have the best plan........... buy that hybrid at the end of Dec. Start working on dealers this month and buy next month. Be firm on your target price and hold out til Dec, 30 making your best deal at that time.

    By Dec end you may find 5 to 10 of your model on dealers lots.. keep checking the high volume dealership near you .

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • seachellaseachella Member Posts: 2
    My brother actually gave me this website and I knew nothing about it. Thank you for the information at looking back a couple months for pricing. Right now I am in the middle of dealing with the insurance company giving me money for my 2008 EXL w/navi from hitting a deer, body shop and whether or not they are going to total the car.
    Can you tell me how I can find out whether or not the dealership is meeting the car quota sales? I am in Peoria Illinois.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Dealerships sales quota's

    Its really hard to tell which dealers in your area are going to make there monthly sales numbers. If you have a lot of dealerships in or around your area that makes sales competition better for you.

    By getting 10 to 20 dealerships involved in pricing helps you get the best price.
    Some dealers will flat out tell you we need to make our numbers this month so our pricing will be more aggressive. Some dealers wont say a word.

    The smart car shopper buys at the end of the month last few days maybe even holding out to the last day of the month. Buying at month end avoids alot of dealer bs on pricing.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    edited November 2013
    [this message really replying to Seachella]

    Seachella:

    I think when we say "dealers need to make quotas" that is sort of a conceptual thing. There isn't a big sign on the front of every dealership that shows the number above or below some quota target. Some salesmen MIGHT tell you, but salesmen say so many things, I'm not sure why you'd ever believe them. I get letters all the time from local dealers saying that they "have to meet quotas" or "we have to move our inventory" or whatever. It's all true but that is just what being a car dealer is all about.

    YOU JUST NEED TO FOCUS ON THE FINAL PRICING. Let me say it again. YOU JUST NEED TO FOCUS ON THE FINAL PRICING.

    It shouldn't matter HOW a given dealer gets to the lowest price. If there are 6 dealers I'm working, and one has the lowest price, I could honestly care less whether he is quoting that price because he needs to make a quota, or because he is a "volume dealer" and sells more cars than others, or because he is getting some hidden compensation from Honda, or because he is stupid and selling at a loss, or because he is a nice guy, or because he is just in a happy mood because it's a sunny day. The HOW doesn't matter. The WHAT does matter.

    Just go through the process, get some internet quotes, get a sense of what others on this board are buying their cars at, and you'll quickly get yourself to a "GOOD" price. Whether you want to keep working it further, by taking some of your higher cost quotes and "stretching them" by asking them whether they would sell to you TODAY at $XYZ price (where XYZ price is a lower, but still believable, number BELOW your lowest current quote) is up to you. That's the way to truly find rock-bottom pricing, but is also requires some higher-level negotiating skills, and the possibility that you may get some NO answers and/or some shenanigans like I did once I got into the dealer who had "agreed" my lower offer.

    Just start with the internet quotes. As you are in Peoria, get quotes from the Chicago dealers as well, at least on the southern side. Joliet, Oak Lawn, Lisle, Countryside, etc. Just go to their websites, fill out the "request a quote" section, and type in 2014 Accord EXL V6, and specify color if you are set on a color. I would suggest you DO NOT do this "build your own car" thing on the website and AT THIS POINT don't get all hung up on your "remote start" option. Work on getting some quality low quotes on the base car that is the same for all dealers. Don't confuse things with your remote starter. If the dealers sense that you are so interested in the "customization" of the car, then you no longer have a "commodity" and it makes it harder to just compare different dealer quotes as if you were comparing the price of a gallon of milk between 3 different stores.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    edited November 2013
    Here is some advice when asking for internet quotes. This is the information you should specifically ask for from dealers:

    1. Sales price of the car including the destination fee (but not including any incentives)
    2. Dealer documentation fees
    3. Title and registration fees (should be the same across all dealers in your state)
    4. Dealer add-ons
    5. Incentives such as flex cash (if you are financing through Honda, you will receive $500 towards your down payment)

    If a dealer does not provide you with all the required information above, you can remind them about it. But after a second request, if you feel they are playing games then move on to the next dealership on your list.

    Once you have all this information, you can focus on the dealerships who have the lowest sales price and actually have the car on their lot. If dealer A has the lowest price of the car and dealer B has the second lowest price, I would recommend keeping dealer B as a backup in case your deal with dealer A falls through.

    Before going into the dealership to close the deal, make sure the car is on their lot in the color you want with (or without) the accessories you want. If a dealer tries to convince you to come into their dealership to get a good price on the car, do not fall for that trick. Let them know that you'd rather do all negotiations via email/phone. You should only be going into the dealership to close the deal by inspecting the car, and signing the paperwork.

    IMPORTANT: Always remember that you are in control. If you are about to close the deal and the sales guy (or a manager) decides to play games by adding some "hidden fees" to the purchase or had lied to you, feel free to walk out of the dealership. You can take your business to your backup dealership.

    Good luck.
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • georgettegeorgette Member Posts: 16
    Are any of these 2014 new plug-in Accords on the market yet?
  • georgettegeorgette Member Posts: 16
    Probably not going to pan out, but I sent emails to 3 dealers I've been communicating with to see if any will sell me a 2014 Accord EX-L for 25,000 with dest. fee ALREADY added in and $500 honda loan incentive ALREADY subtracted out. The lowest offer I've had up until today is $25,499 and maybe that's the best I can get in my area. (That prices includes Dest. Fee and the $500 incentive).

    Have heard from 2 of the 3 dealers within a few minutes and both tell me that their Internet offer is their very best offer - one is the 25,499 and the other is 26,2XX, with the 3rd dealer being the lowest volume one in the group. The $26+ dealer told me that there's a new Lease Incentive out today ---- an addition $800 off the price.

    If I have money to BUY a car, when does doing a Lease make sense?
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    You can try reaching out to other dealerships at the end of the month.

    Are you thinking of leasing or financing the car?
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • ash31ash31 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    I live in bay area and I am looking to buy Accord LX. Anyone made a similar purchase or in the market for this car, please share your experience.
    Thx
  • gem52gem52 Member Posts: 2
    Did anyone buy a 2014 Accord Sport recently and care to share their buying and price experience? Tampa Bay Area
  • georgettegeorgette Member Posts: 16
    The preference is to BUY, not Lease, because we like to pass our old cars on to family members, but when we heard about the incentive, it made us think a little about a lease.

    To take advantage of the $500 incentive, you have to finance, so we will for that reason alone and for shortest amount of time possible.

    Yeah, I guess we'll wait til month end. Trying to save a few hundred may not be worth the continued irritation of dealing with salespeople. No offense to anyone in sales (and I've been there myself at times), but I'm just not patient enough to hear the same thing over and over. It's easy to see why some people prefer just to pay the asking price and be done with it! And yes, I know this forum is for the others of us.
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    edited November 2013
    Georgette - a couple suggestions.

    1) make a decision to buy vs lease not just based on whether there is an extra 300 incentive (800 vs 500). It's a totally different "ownership" experience (actually its not ownership)....if you want to make monthly payments, and worry about not driving it too many miles, and worry about damaging it, etc, then lease might be OK. I've always preferred straight-up ownership because I typically own cars for long periods of time, and don't value the ability to "turn back the car to the dealer" at the end of a lease.

    2) once you get your initial "good" internet quotes, I suggest you then need to move to the phone and start TALKING to some of these internet managers. Develop a "relationship" and let them see you are a real live buyer, and not some faceless robot emailing in the background. In terms of how to "stretch" them, you are indeed correct that you need to make an offer that is lower than their current internet quote. They will resist of course, and say that their internet quote is their "best quote". Why should they just start negotiating against THEMSELVES? For all they know, they are the lowest dealer, or the only dealer, you are speaking with. So it doesn't carry as much water to PHRASE your ask as "would'ya sell for $25k when your quote is $25.5". You haven't given them a compelling reason to change their quote, and you just sound like you're fishing.

    So what I think you need to do is recognize you have multiple dealers in the mix. This is where it gets tricky. Let's say ALL 3 DEALERS are at 25,499, 24,550 and 24,600. How do you get to 25,000 flat? First of all, do you have evidence (from this board) that 25,000 flat is an achievable number? (I haven't paid attention to your specific trim line since I was shopping for a V6). IF it is, then you'll need to stretch the dealer. I'd suggest you speak with the HIGHEST dealer and tell him that you appreciate his quote, but you have another quote for 25,001 and therefore you are going to head over to that other dealer TOMORROW MORNING AND BUY THE CAR. And wait and just see what he says. Maybe the number you use is 25,250, I dunno. It is whatever number you think is achievable but it needs to be believable too. You can't say "Oh yeah I've got another dealer at 22,500" They'll know you're a liar.

    First, he will say "that sounds too low. They're probably tricking you, by not including Destination, or by including options that they will spring on you" You need to say "No, I am very careful as you can tell, and I've asked all those questions. I've confirmed that I can buy the car for [$25,001] plus tax, title and license." Then one of two things will happen. He will either say "ok well that is way far from what we can do, good luck" or he will say "let me check with my manager and come right back to you". The key is that you say "I AM GOING TO BUY THE CAR TOMORROW". This means that this is his last shot, so if he has any room in his price, he knows that he needs to act now otherwise he loses you.

    This is basically the same thing as Brian's method, although I gather that Brian just calls the various internet guys and says "I want to buy the car for 25,001....if you can hit that price I will buy it from you today and I'll be in there in 60 mins to start the paperwork". That's another (or maybe the same) way to do this. The risk to this strategy is that you strike out on all accounts, then you're left with no car and you've lost some cred. I guess since you're phrasing it as I WANT TO buy the car at 25,001, you're not actually saying you can. Depends on whether you're willing to wait. In MY personal case, I only "stretched" by 150 bucks. I had a lowest internet quote, and then I called a few other dealers and just made an offer of 150 less than my lowest quote. I DID NOT TOUCH MY LOWEST DEALER for fear of messing up that best quote. Best case I get someone to bite 150 bucks lower, worst case nobody bites and I just go buy the car at the lowest quote. Turned out somebody DID bite, so I went with that one. And I was satisfied that it was a great price because I had already worked the quotes a lot and I hadn't seen ANYONE buying for this low of a price on this board or others. Now, I've seen a few other posters have been matching my price on the V6.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Call all your targeted dealerships on NOV, 29th. Speak only to the internet managers.

    Let each dealership know you will buy at the end of the month for 25k. Tell each manager the 1st dealer to reach my offer of 25k gets my business and the sale that moment.

    You will have your answer on price that day or dealers best price by the end of............. Nov.

    Do not drive from one dealership to the next... Secure your lowest price by phone or online then go to dealership.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Make sure you and dealership are on the same page price wise..
    Include dest/ charge in your offer price.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • djfosterdjfoster Member Posts: 8
    Just bought a 2014 Sport 6 speed manual in the New Orleans area. MSRP was $ 24505 including destination charge. Sale price was $ 22395. Dealer had to get the car from another dealer in Mississippi because there were no 6 speeds in stck in the New Orleans area and I told them upfront I had no interest in the CVT.
  • zigster38zigster38 Member Posts: 117
    You should be able to get a great price - NorCal is a great market - lots of dealers and even the retards selling you the car know people are Internet savvy. True car shows 20,480 for my zip in NorCal for an Lx with cvt, that includes destination. That's 13% off msrp, and I'm sure you could get them down another 1-2%.

    Frankly I think the sweet spot in the entire lineup is either the sport or the EX. I'll bet you could get an EX cvt for say 22,600 including destination. GL!
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    zigster - you may not be aware, but the term you used in your post to describe sales people has become a very offensive, socially unacceptable term in society. I can't speak for others, but I think it would be better for all who use the forum if we all tried to be considerate in our language and how we express ourselves.

    Thanks,

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • zigster38zigster38 Member Posts: 117
    I completely agree. My apologies. I amend the term to 'the Mensa collection waiting to sell you a car' ;)
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    Wow - you just don't get it do you? You don't see that it's not about someone "waiting to sell you a car." I tried to bring to your attention in a respectful and courteous way your use of a derogatory term that has no useful place on a public forum like this and you respond in the only way you apparently know how - snarky and sarcastically.

    I was hoping my first post would spark some thought on your part about what you said and how you said it but I guess not. If you feel like it, google "use of the term retard" and who knows - maybe you'll understand what I am getting at.

    I'm not trying to be politically correct or holier than thou and believe it or not, I'm not trying to tick you off - just trying to make the point that there are probably many other ways you can express your disdain for sales folks or anyone else without having to use a slur.

    Take care,

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    edited November 2013
    Appreciate the support but, no, he doesn't get it. I would have left him standing alone in the rain in the middle of our lot wondering what happened.

    I didn't need customers like that and the loss of a sale to him (or anyone else) wouldn't have affected my lifestyle one iota.

    I hope he meets someone like myself as he prowls the lots.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    edited November 2013
    Isell - in this case, I didn't even know you were involved - I just saw a blatantly disrespectful remark that affected more than one group of people and attempted to address it. I guess I'll never understand why some folks just can't conduct themselves like an adult. In this case, I have to agree it appears to be a lost cause.

    Lately, I've confined my posts in this thread to congratulating folks on their new accords and maybe a little light advice. A few hard core "expert" advice givers seem to have taken over and many of the advice seekers are willing to follow and then wonder why they get a major headache trying to buy a car.

    I have been following you guys in the frontlines thread and enjoy the much more civil interaction where folks actually have a discussion - maybe I'll chime in one of these days.

    Take care Craig,

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • crazeeceecrazeecee Member Posts: 13
    edited November 2013
    So, I am getting ready to buy my "2014 Honda Accord EX-L Sedan" tomorrow. I am in Northern California, South Bay area. The best price I have right now is around $25,600 (incl dest fee). Both my top dealers seem to be out of flex cash. I just don't seem to be able to get them lower (this is my first car purchase, and I am probably not so good at negotiating).

    Any suggestions to get them lower? Or is it a decent price, and it is tough to get them lower (I can't wait till the end of the month), and I should just go ahead and buy it.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    If you need the car now, a grand back of invoice is not a bad price without flex. If you can put it off, the deals might be sweeter in Dec. If both dealers have the car you want, I'd call the Internet Mgrs of both, tell them for 25k, you'll be there in 30 minutes to sign away - they might say no but then again, you never know.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • crazeeceecrazeecee Member Posts: 13
    I don't know what I am doing wrong, but these dealers don't even seem to reply back to me promptly. Like I called a dealer around 2 hrs back to email me the complete out-the-door price breakdown, but I haven't yet received any reply! I have told them that I plan to buy the car tomorrow (which is true). Are they generally like this? Or am I doing something really wrong here?
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Some dealers don't "play the game" (the internet game)

    I emailed 18 dealers in Chicagoland. A good 3 or 4 never responded. Another 4 or 5 gave some totally lowball quote, but it had some many asterisks and qualifiers, and when I followed up to ask them some basic questions (like are there dealer options on your cars, and does this quote assume incentives already applied or not, etc) they just ignored me. I crossed them off the list as I assume that I "found them out" or they otherwise had something to hide. One dealer quoted 300 ABOVE invoice, then had the audacity to believe that I had any quotes lower than that! Then tried to tell me that any other quotes were, by definition, misleading or trickery. I ended up buying the car almost 2000 bucks lower than that guy's "best quote"

    It's possible that you're in a smaller market and if so, maybe the dealers know they have more "power"
  • crazeeceecrazeecee Member Posts: 13
    I dont know.. I am in San Jose area.. Definitely not a small market I think.. Either I am really bad at this.. Or this is just a bad time to buy..
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    You're not doing anything wrong - keep in mind that saturday is probably their busiest traffic day for walk ins. Call whoever it is you've been working with - see if you can establish phone contact and try to work it that way. Don't get too anxious or impatient - it will put you at a disadvantage. Hogan was very patient and methodical and got a killer deal.

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    What is your rush.. Call and speak directly to each internet manager. Emails on pricing work only so far. Some dealerships let there sales people do most of the leg work, like finding your car, options etc. maybe dealers are looking to trade with another dealership. By you rushing will lead to you not getting the lowest possible price. The 2 hr dealership will call you back trust me.

    In the mean time you need to figure out your target price to buy. high and low end.
    what each dealerships doc fee charge is that you contacted?

    flex cash options ,, etc.

    Back to my opening line of direct calling.

    Make a list of as many dealerships that your willing to travel to. Ask each dealership for the name, email, and phone number of each Int/ mgr and negotiate your deal thru him/her.

    If you cant handle this kind of buying you need to go to each dealership and sit down with the sales folks and do the same thing.

    Any dealerships internet manager that wont give you bottom line price to buy that moment or wont get back to you on pricing remove off your dealerships to buy list.

    Read back thru these boards there is a wealth of great buying tips and info.

    What area are you looking to buy maybe i could help you with dealerships..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • crazeeceecrazeecee Member Posts: 13
    edited November 2013
    There is no really target price I had. I was looking to get the best deal that I can.

    My lowest price has actually gone up now (I don't know how that happened to me). That dealer is telling me that the price that I have right now from the other dealer is really good ($25,815 including flex cash and some protection package). He can offer only the same price to me but doesn't have any flex cash available. So, he is saying that I should go ahead and buy it from the other dealer since I am effectively getting a free protection package from that dealer as compared to his own dealer. But looking at this board, I know it is not so great?

    I am in Santa Clara / San Jose area. Do you know dealers in this area which are biggest or are known to give the best price?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    crazee....

    There are a lot of "ruined" markets in the car business and the greater Bay Area is one of those. I have to ask you....you were given a GREAT price!

    Is a hundred or two really going to make a difference in the long run? Is the stress REALLY worth all of this? If so, then follow the advise in these forums and make it a gut wrenching procedure.

    In "ruined" markets, the dealers are numb and callous and they are sick and tired of trying to provide professional service and they get to the point they lowball people, add last minute changes and ignore countless emails that they know are unlikely to amount to anything.

    Just my thoughts for whatever they may be worth.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    I tell folks in every forum i'm evolved in. You cant expect to get pricing like other folks are posting. Take the high price and low prices you see in this forum as your guide. Thats how you judge your deal in your area.

    Your best deal/ price might be in the middle of the high and lows on this board. If thats the case your getting a great deal.

    Remember in any of these buying forums.

    Some posters lie.
    Some posted prices are obtained by many factors.

    1- Area of vehicle

    2- Supply and demand factor.. dealerships and cars

    3- How good you can negotiate.

    4-Knowing how and when to buy.

    I am on the East Coast so i cant help you in your area.

    Round up several dealerships and take the best price closest to your house. dont worry that john in chicago is getting the same car for 700 less than you.

    Your concern is getting the best price from your target dealerships.

    Once you reached out to your target dealerships in your area with price.. Make your best deal.. Now you can say... hey i did not get taken advantage of with pricing and out of the 10 dealerships who competed for my business i took what i felt is my best deal.

    This is how you buy.. If your the type who wants that very best price and deal i suggest you read some of our other posters posts in this forum.. These guys will give you great tips and buying advice. Use this info to make a great deal on your new purchase.

    bluecars57
    Hogan
    gmanusmc
    brian125

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    1. Your first dealer is exhausted from dealing with you and hopes you'll go elsewhere. This happens.

    2. This Protection Package is probably worth very little.

    3. DO NOT believe all of the so called Prices Paid numbers on this board. Some never happened. Not even close.

    4. Lastly, I do wish you well.

    Since the price seems to be so important, do you really have to have an EXL?

    Maybe a lesser model would do the trick for a lot less money. All Accords are well equipped now and may be in greater supply.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Bill,

    Come join us in that other forum. Some good people there. Jump right in!
  • crazeeceecrazeecee Member Posts: 13
    @isselhondas @brian125 thanks for the great advice.. i think you guys are right.. i am stressing out over probably few hundred dollars for no reason.. but now the question is, how do I go back to that dealer who was giving protection package etc for $25,815. I also wanted interior illumination in the car. I am sure if I ask him for that now, he will give me the most expensive price for that?
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    crazeecee

    This is why i posted do not rush. Before you buy any vehicle you have to know exactly what you want before you start your price negotiations. Cant be changing or adding options after getting pricing.

    isell is correct about dealerships and pricing... You get one shot at doing it right then dealerships will string you along.

    Start your buying process over with exactly what you want in the car.. If you call dealerships as i suggested you still will work out a good deal..

    make sure if your calling on the phone each dealership knows your buying that moment for xxx price. read thru prior posts

    good luck.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I wouldn't say anything about this interior illumination package. That is an oddball accessory that few people order.

    Buy the car the way it is. If that extra is something you HAVE to have you can always add it later.

    By returning you will NOT be in a position of strength and that dealer knows that. Tell him you've decided to take his offer. If something changes, just leave.

    I'll never understand the pain some people will put themselves through.
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    Methinks you are probably signaling your impatience to the dealers. It's like an easy "tell" in poker. You can TALK THE TALK all you want about wanting the lowest price, but if you are signaling otherwise that you are NEEDING to buy today (implied = at any reasonable price) then you've given away whatever power you once had.

    I was methodical, and was very courteous to the dealers who were contacting me, but I used the fact that THEY were contacting ME to my advantage. I'd respond quickly to their emails if they emailed me, but would'nt hound THEM! It was as if I was so busy (which in fact I was) with other things that this whole car buying thing was one more thing on my list.

    I also didn't gum up the works worrying about some custom cr%p. I was shopping for a COMMODITY and I acted like it. An Accord V6, without any dealer installed junk, in black. Every dealer pretty much had one in inventory. And they couldn't really pressure me in terms of time, because I darn well knew that every few days or every week, when a new truck rolled in from Ohio, there would be another black V6 in the shipment. So I am shopping for a commodity, and all I care about is best price. And I will drive up to X miles to get it for the best price. Some dealers try to hook you with all the other junk...we'll give you a free oil change, or we have a nicer service lounge, whatever. I couldn't care less.

    So when you are getting into all these details about whether they can install special lighting and stuff, then you've taken away the commodity factor. And then when you email them and you're sitting on the couch watching the second hand on the clock moving and wondering why it's been 24 minutes and they haven't called you back, they will smell that desperation.

    I was on my way to pay for the car at Dealer #1, and it was Saturday morning, and I got an email from Dealer #3. NOTE I DIDN'T INITIATE - I was responding to him. But it was perfect timing. I called him back and said "oh hey, what's up, yeah actually I'm on my way to pay for the car because I found it for a lower price than the price you quoted, which I assumed was your lowest. I'm buying for 26,999. He of course went into action and said "what can I do to earn your business".....3 minutes later I had a Text from him agreeing to match that 26,999 price. Turned out I needed that, since the first dealer ended up playing games.
  • zigster38zigster38 Member Posts: 117
    Had the opportunity to drive the Accord Hybrid. Very nice, felt more planted and less jittery than the normal version. Certainly due to the 225 tires and extra weight. It compared very well with bmw 328d in fact - similar 0-60, less sharp handling but cheaper and gets better mileage.

    It was a mid level model, the one that's 32k. Is that worth the premium over an ex-l that you can probably get for 7k less? No, but i want one anyway :) They were asking 1k over msrp. It does not look like the price will come down anytime soon, or at least by Christmas. I think Honda has a huge winner here, and in that case you are just going to have to pay what the market will bear, at least for a while.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    My EXL v-6 is a definite upgrade from previous years models. I will tell you this... on bumpy roads or city driven especially here in NYC this car is less planted and jumping all over the place. Not a great ride. Highway this car is nice. If you are fortunate enough to drive more upscale vehicles you will know what i'm talking about.

    If this will be a problem for you buy the Hybrid you will be much happier. And money well spent unless you upgrade your vehicle class.

    I have always bought vehicles like these for my kids when they were growing up and just driven. Honda Accords / Camry's / Nissans, all good vehicles that serve its purpose.

    I'm not sure how a 3 series rides just heard from friends and reviews. A 2014 Accord will be more jumpy/ jittery riding than the 3 series BMW.

    The hybrid version with the extra weight and tires may give you a similar ride to your 328..

    Post back your conclusion on these vehicles.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • crazeeceecrazeecee Member Posts: 13
    Thanks everybody for your replies and suggestions.

    I purchased my car yesterday. Love it :)

    Here is my final deal:
    2014 Honda Accord EX-L Sedan
    Sales Price: $25,815
    Paid by AHM (most probably Flex Cash?): $300
    Doc Fee: $80 (the max allowed by CA)
    I did not go with the interior illumination accessory. Will maybe get it later.
    The finance guy threw in another $100 of flex cash at the end for free Phantom Footprints. Also, took a small amount of loan at 0.9%.

    The purchase was at the dealer who had initially told me that they had run of flex cash and was suggesting me to buy it from the other dealer giving the flex cash and protection package ($25,815 sales price - $500 flex cash + $499 protection package).
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    edited November 2013
    Congrats on the purchase.

    Flex cash is normally $500 and it is applied towards the down payment of the car. Could you clarify how much in total you received in flex cash? $400 ($300 paid by AHM and $100 from the Finance guy) or $500 as you stated in the final price breakdown?
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • steveaspesisteveaspesi Member Posts: 46
    I've bought allot of cars in my days and consider myslef to be decent at negotiating and doing my homework before deciding what car I want, how it should be equipted and what price I'll pay.

    with that said, all this advice on how to get the "best price" can be incredibly time consuming and stressfull. sometimes it's not about what you can afford but it just boils down to someone needing to know they got the "best price" ever.

    As much as I hate to hear when someone gets taken advantage of at the dealer, I also think the race to find the best deal ever can be a waste of time, energy and stress - those are the folks who come back to this collum even after buying to make sure no one got a better deal out of fear they left money on the table.

    for many people - going with a broker can be the least stressfull method or through a car buying program such as Costco.

    I must add; I can't believe Isell is still here - it's been maybe 10 years since I posted here and Isell is still going strong.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    " Phantom Footprints" ???

    Had to look that one up...I'm still laughing....

    You've pulled the trigger! Good for you!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Yep, I'm still here. Left a few times out of boredom or frustration but still kicking.

    I totally agree with you. Some people are just terrified that someone else, somewhere just MIGHT have bought the same car for less money.

    Sad way to go through life especially when someone will be quick to tell them that they, indeed, paid too much.

    Car Brokers are, thankfully a thing of the past now. People read these forums and the "experts" advise them here.

    Costco provides an easy way to buy a car but my "Costco Buyers" would usually just take my number and go shop it to death.

    Thankfully retired now for three years and not missing it.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    Congrats on your new Accord - sounds like it worked out at a decent price and you seem much more relaxed now that it's done.

    Take care and enjoy your new car!

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
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