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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • dbailey75dbailey75 Member Posts: 8
    the information in this thread is amazing, I've stayed away from buying new cars, just because its just to darn confusing, and a lot work, and I would hate to walk away with buyers remorse. I'm in a lease right now for the reasons I just mention, anyway, I have an eye on the EX-L V6 With nav, MSRP, $32910 with destination, True car (if dealers even honor this) shows a price of $29,292 (with destination), which I assume excludes any documentation fees. I'm in Atlanta, what would one expect to pay for this model, ball park. I've reached out to only one dealer, and they came back with the same price from turcar, but yet they don't even have any EX-L V6's in inventory. My lease does not expire until April, but figured I'd see if a dealer could provide an incentive to terminate my lease early.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    dbailey

    Above post from blue applies to you also as far as price for a 2014 any model Accord vehicle.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • dbailey75dbailey75 Member Posts: 8
    edited November 2013
    What's a good site for invoice, going through the Edmonds tool, invoice is listed at $30,162 (same on MSN Autos) with destination, that would make the $29292, ($840 less than invoice) a good price pending doc fees.

    I've read and I believe it was mentioned on the previous page or so the invoice price listed on these sites is not exactly correct.

    Edit, Actually, the dealer offered $29,062, excluding doc fees. so $1040 under invoice. but they don't even have stock according to their website.
  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    One way I use Truecar is to input a whole bunch of different zip codes in the surrounding area. You will see a wide price variation, even for just changing the location by a few miles. You then can either get a quote in the cheapest somewhat nearby area and bargain down the local dealers, or even easier just use the truecar number as a quote with your local dealers. Just remember that Truecar is taking a $300 or so commission on each sale, so you should always be able to beat them by $300. Another thing to remember is that Accord's have at least a $700 holdback (dealer profit). So true dealer cost is at least $700 below invoice, plus $500 flex, or $1200 below invoice. Its often more like $1500 below invoice. The dealers also get volume bonuses. That gives you an idea of your best possible price, now its just a question of leveraging yourself into it.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    Blue, Brian and veers all provided good info. I'd just like to add some thoughts. Is your lease a Honda? Don't expect an "early termination" of your current lease. Dealers will treat your current vehicle as a normal trade in. Depending on the make and model of your current lease, you will have positive or negative equity which will be applied to your new purchase and affect the payment accordingly. December should be a good month to get a great deal on an Accord. Historically, April is also a good month for buying or leasing a Honda as far as incentives are concerned. So I guess I am saying be patient, arm yourself with the info offered on this forum and you will get a deal you will be happy with.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • dbailey75dbailey75 Member Posts: 8
    edited November 2013
    Very good information, so when buying a Honda, I should not be under the impression that I'm going to receive a deal similar to what you would see advertised on an Altima for example which are going for $5-6K less then MSRP. In this case MSRP $32919, invoice $30132, so a price of $28362 would be a good deal.

    Here's were I was spoiled, bought our Odyessy from a Dealer on ebay, we actually went direct as we didn't like the one they had listed, called the internet manager, told him the one we wanted after reviewing their inventory, got the same price advertised on ebay, $27,500 with doc fee's, MSRP was around $32,200 if I recall, cashed in some skymiles for a one way ticket. guess I'm still chasing this deal, roughly $5000K less than MSRP.
  • dbailey75dbailey75 Member Posts: 8
    edited November 2013
    I did one of those national lease deals, 0 down, 0 first month, 35 payments of $199, 3 year 36,000 miles. Oh, and it's a civic LX, was the cheapest car I could find with out having to commit to buying it. based on my current average, I should be around 30K Miles at lease end, but I plan to dump it before they try and hit me up for the 30K service, so I'd like to stop driving it around 29K miles, lol.

    And like I said I'm in no hurry, was just testing the waters to see if there was any reason to buy now rather than later.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    bill,

    Not to mention alot of laughs along the way in here

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    I was thinking of calling some of my most hated dealerships to see if i could deep fry a couple of turkeys in there lots and have some of the boys come down for a party on Friday.

    We can call it a......... Nov to remember tent sale party. If any of you regular experts want to stop in we could put our heads together and make a 2k below invoice price buy plus flex cash sale on a 2014... I'd be more than happy to broker that deal in between grilling.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    Oh wow - I can just see those exploding turkeys crashing thru the showroom windows now.

    Hey - all you folks have a great Thanksgiving - forget about buying cars for a day!

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    Enjoy your family and friends.. Have a blessed Thanksgiving to all.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • dannyk7dannyk7 Member Posts: 12
    gil123, bluemkn57cars, brian125, gmanusmc, isellhondas, and others on the forum, thanks again for your experiences and advice.

    I bought the car a couple of weeks ago on Sat from spreen honda. Staysi is the person who I've been dealing with online and offline (at the dealership). She was very nice and patient.

    The whole deal took maybe 4-5 hours until the dealership closed. We had to go through with the major up sell on fabric protection, exterior protection, security protection, etc - added costs would have been 1k to 4k.

    Staysi was nice enough after we declined all of it. Same for the finance department, but she was also nice about it, though she made everything sound somewhat dire and great to buy.

    We left mid-point because we thought should have been able to get the flex cash for financing through Honda. I called a backup dealership to see if he could offer the flex cash without strings attached, he said yes.

    During our meal break, he and I called back and forth and I told him my situation. His price was a little higher than spreen's but couldn't match the price, even with the flex cash. We went back to spreen and bought the accord.

    One thing that was probably misleading was that she and her manager told us that we needed to buy one of the options in order to get the flex cash.

    I could keep going on, but here's the price breakdown. Southern California area.

    Price: 24,919
    Doc fee: 80
    Sales tax 8%: 1999.92
    E-vehicle Reg: 29
    License fee: 162
    Reg/title/etc: 100
    CA tire fee: 8.75
    Total: 27,298.67

    I financed with Honda @ 1.9% with a down payment.

    Good luck, and Happy Thanksgiving.
  • lil_owllil_owl Member Posts: 47
    dannyk7

    This is the exact deal that I posted in the beginning of November that was offered to me by Spreen and Staysi. I was also quoted 22,624 for the EX. Waiting until the end of December to get mine and will probably get the EX. Slightly disappointed to hear that there were a few shenanigans but glad that your price quite was honored overall. Hopefully my post helped :)

    Did they have the color you wanted easily enough?

    And just because I'm curious, did any of the other dealerships come close in price?

    Enjoy your new ride and congrats!!
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    Congrats on the purchase.

    You did well. Enjoy your new car.
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • dannyk7dannyk7 Member Posts: 12
    edited November 2013
    Thanks lil_owl, and yes it was helpful.

    Yes we got the color we wanted, black.

    The backup dealership (el monte) I had was about 200 dollars above, with flex cash.

    Already enjoying the car bluemkn57cars, thanks.
  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    Well, the shenanigans continue. After e-mailing dealership and asking for the total OTD price including all fees, dealer comes in at $27,5xx after everything. I go in and lo and behold he is adding the $790 destination to the bill, because "Honda charges me so I got to charge you." Classic stuff, lol. Well, that deal went up in smoke pretty fast. Finding the market very tough here, looks like I may need to hold out until year end to get the right deal. Good luck everyone and happy turkey day!
  • brainage2brainage2 Member Posts: 24
    edited November 2013
    I bought an Ody way back in 2008. I tried the ody forums in this site.But the prices in NJ were never close to the one's discussed here. I extended my search to Maryland and found a dealer who was ready to sell me a EXL with Rear Entertainment System for 30,000 . I got an email confirmation , took a rental car and picked up the car in a matter of 6 hrs round trip.

    I would suggest whoever looking in NJ to just extend your search.

    regards
    Brainage2
  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    I've been thinking about this strategy since I'm not getting much traction in NY, NJ, CT.

    Do we know who the best bets are in DE, southwest PA or eastern MD? Really wish Fitzmall had Hondas...
  • brainage2brainage2 Member Posts: 24
    Try Hendrick Honda in VA .
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    Veers

    Here are my 2 top Honda dogs in Md.... both dealers sell cars.

    Best bet internet manager Nov,30 or 31st.. Call with your target price for the sale that moment. If you guys agree on a price tell them to fax the buyers order to you with vehicle specfic's...... you both sign it and your done. leave a refundable credit card deposit unless he has actual car with Vin number on his lot.

    Pohanka
    Criswell

    Here are a few others in MD they are hit or miss. More on the miss side.

    Sport
    Jim Coleman
    Ourisman
    Anderson
    Price .............DE.......... in dover

    Philly/ PA................. dealers to contact

    Conicelli, Scott, and Mike Piazza

    I have done over 700 fax buys spanning over 40 yr for family friends and friends of friends ..This is the only way to buy vehicles today Especially guys like us looking for that big bang. Once you buy and do the deal by fax you will never look at your local dealerships the same way anymore. You Weed out the salesman and all the lies and BS that come with that territory. dealing only with the internet friendly dealers who sell cars . Dealerships that are stone age and not Internet savy in todays times will be extinct soon enough.

    Let both dealers in MD know if you cant meet xxx price and i dont get xxx price today. I will be buying next month. Keep the lines of communication open with my 2 top dogs.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    Danny - congrats on the new Accord - that is a sweet deal - about 1650 back of invoice and rivals, maybe beats blue and hogan's deals.

    Way to go using this forum's resources, being patient, and hanging tough declining the extras.

    Enjoy the new ride and have a happy thanksgiving!

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Good job...... Dan enjoy your new car.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • llove88llove88 Member Posts: 1
    Hello Kriptonic,

    May I asked which so cal dealer you went to for this deal?
    I'm interested in a 2014 ex-l CVT accord.

    Thank you
  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    Thanks for the info... I'll give these guys a shot. $27 flat would be a steal, I think I can take $27.2 now, anything higher and I'll wait to see if Honda throws in some more incentives and try to snag a deal early December. If anyone wants to make a deal in NY, your best bet right now might be to get in touch with Huntington Honda, and make an aggressive offer to their internet guys. Still going to be tough to get south of $1k under invoice (including $500 flex) in NY.
  • dclivedclive Member Posts: 35
    Honda of Tyson's Corner has the 2014 Accord EX-L for $25,196 in their emails, before negotiations.

    "All sale prices exclude taxes, tags, processing fee and freight. The Insights, Civic LX, Accord LX and Crv LX 2WD require Honda Finance. There is no special finance rates on the 2014 Accord Hybrid. Active duty military and recent college grad discounts require Honda finance. 0.9% for 36 months unless otherwise specified. Insight does not qualify for special finance. Sale ends 11-30-13. Honda of Tysons Corner is not responsible for human or typographical errors."
  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    edited November 2013
    wild guess its I4 not V6. Tack on $790 freight to $25,200 price and you are up to $26,000. Then give em $300 or so for "processing" and you are now at $26,300 giving you a heck of a .... bad deal. I'm a big fan of the easy no haggle internet prices... but only when they are at the bottom of the market. No haggle is terrible when the thing is overpriced and they won't come down.
  • srs1974srs1974 Member Posts: 14
    thank you guys for your help...i actually got quote from Hamilton honda and also from davis honda in burlington..davis had $500 less than hamilton on LX..and about $800 on EX..will see if they can come down..i saw lease add from hamilton honda for $149 / 27 month/10k miles..with $0 down and $1000 some fees etc...
  • srs1974srs1974 Member Posts: 14
    thank you guys for your help...i actually got quote from Hamilton honda and also from davis honda in burlington..davis had $500 less than hamilton on LX..and about $800 on EX..will see if they can come down..i saw lease add from hamilton honda for $149 / 27 month/10k miles..with $0 down and $1000 some fees etc...
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Friday and Sat are the 2 best days this month to buy at or get close to your target price.

    Sunday is Dec, 1st you may lose your pricing leverage.

    Good luck post your deals.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    VEERS

    Call Yonkers Honda.........Int/Mgr.........Rich, S

    He is telling me he is looking to sell cars this weekend. I dont know what numbers where talking about but Rich is a straight shooter, no... bs type of guy he will give you his bottom line.

    Yonkers is a well run dealership.

    Tell him Brian from Edmunds speaks very highly of him and thats why your calling today.

    See how close to your price he could get to close the deal today.

    There are a couple of forum members looking in NJ you are welcome to give Rich a call. Mention my name it may help you with a little better pricing this weekend.

    New Rochelle Honda is always on my short list here in New york on the last 2 days last day.

    All doc fee's in NY are.............. $75

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    Give Autosport an e-mail, they are the lowest price in NJ from what I can tell. Just make sure to read the fine print and confirm the actual price.
  • amickeyamickey Member Posts: 25
    Trying to turn in a 2012 LX lease early for a 2013 LX Sport.

    Honda has an offer for the $1999 down & $199/month lease.

    Can someone provide details on MF & RESIDUAL & current selling price please...in Tampa if that makes any difference.

    Current buying wind ? Buyers market?

    Thanks!
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    As far as I know, Honda has no early lease turn in thingy going - what you will be doing is trading in your 2012 - and most likely you will be dealing with negative equity being rolled into the new lease - so be careful.

    Nationally advertised leases usually use a selling price that is higher than you could negotiate on your own - the dealer would love you to take that advertised lease with no more negotiation - they will make more profit than they usually do.

    Read through these forums to arm yourself with info and get up to speed.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • hogan773hogan773 Member Posts: 255
    You should have checked back to say "this includes the dest fee"

    But that is sort of the same trickery the crummy dealer pulled on me and made me walk. These guys are insane and liars. Waiting for ISELL to say that it is "our fault" for trying to dig to the lowest price :)
  • albert284albert284 Member Posts: 2
    I am new to this board and inexperienced when it comes to car shopping. I didn't do my homework, went in to test drive the Accord EX-L (4 cylinder), I enjoyed it, it has all the features I am looking for (rearview camera, bluetooth, etc.), I signed the papers, and came home with the car. I checked the price on truecar.com and other lease offers on the internet, and I feel like [non-permissible content removed]. I want to learn where I made my mistakes and what I can do to improve in the future.

    Here are my lease terms:

    $3500 down + $339/mo for 36 months for 15,000 miles/year. Includes sentinel package: unlimited oil changes, tire repair/replacement, $150/tire and $35/repair, roadside and trip interruption.

    After signing the papers, I find the agreed upon value of vehicle: $28,120
    Residual value: $14,680 (not including tax)

    I intend to buy this car at the end of my 3 year term, so the total cost would be:
    $3500 + $339/mo*36mo + $14,680*1.07tax = $31,411

    1. is my math correct in terms of estimating the total cost to own this car after 3 years? If so, by how much did I overpay??

    2. truecar.com states the average price is trending below $1,850 below MSRP. MSRP is $28,785. Should I have originally negotiated the price down to $26,935 and then come up with lease terms?

    3. truecar.com also states the estimated lease payment of $324/mo for 36 month lease and $0 due at signing. Excludes tax. What is this number based off?? What is the agreed upon value/ residual price when people get lease deals like this?

    4. After 3 years, I will have spent $15,704.. which is 55% of the MSRP. What would be the wise thing to do at the end of my lease, given I am under 45,000 miles? Buy out with residual value or return it?

    5. When there are 6 months left in the lease, is it possible for me to go to another dealership, buy/lease a new car and have them pay for the remainder of 6 months? I guess what I am asking is what is the best possible way for me to recoup some of the $ I wasted in this deal..

    Your feedback is much appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Al
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    " Waiting for ISELL to say that it is "our fault" for trying to dig to the lowest price"

    Yep, it certainly is! In that person's zeal to not pay one more nickel more than someone else did, they failed if destination charges were included.

    The store I worked at was always careful to make sure the shoppers knew about destination charges and we would warn them that there were stores in the area that wouldn't say anything.

    " Of course, you realize the price I quoted you didn't include freight?"

    Sadly at that point, that sneaky tactic often worked. By this time the "Smart Shoppers" were worn out and exhausted from the process and they would simply cave in and pay.

    Even worse was the fact that quite often the "good store" that spent hours with the customer answering questions, driving cars etc would lose the sale to the store that lied to the shopper.

    I sure don't miss this business.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    TO MANY DEALERSHIPS LIE, DECEIVE PEOPLE,

    This is a common practice in your business. Dont take it personal its a big game. When you do not do your homework on pricing and dealerships you get what you deserve. Lied to and most of the time dealers take advantange of you,, If you dont want to play by the rules dont complain. This goes for the salesman and the consumer. The car companies setup the rules and guidelines. Use them to your advantage.

    Here are the common lies from dealers

    Come down will give you a great deal/ will match or beat that price.
    Will remove doc fee charges
    yes dest/ charge was included in this price
    yes we have the vehicle in stock

    Then when you go to dealership
    cant match discussed price
    No vehicle on lot or has a ton of add on's.

    Thats why a honest dealership that you worked for gets the short end of the stick.. Your Industry sucks..

    You guys deserve to be sucked for every penny from guys like me for dealerships bad practices. Its always nice to give back what alot of dealerships dish out

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    Albert

    Post your message in the Accord leasing forum they will help you. What i can tell you is the basic's on leasing.

    Always Negotiate the lowest sale price of vehicle then have dealer apply the right leasing numbers to the deal.

    1- Cap Cost
    2- Money Factor
    3- Residual value.... ETC

    Most folks are buying the 2014 Accord at a little below dealers invoice price to 500 below. You could gauge your deal by your models invoice price.

    Your big Mistake was putting a $3500 upfront payment on your lease. If your Vehicle is totaled in a accident or stolen you will lose your down payment.

    You want to make 36 equal payments and roll everything into that lease including the taxes.

    Whats done is done. You have a great vehicle go and enjoy it and dont look back. I would suggest reading thru this board on buying tips and tricks to getting the lowest price in your area.. It will help in future buys..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • aaloke83aaloke83 Member Posts: 6
    Hey..

    Got almost the same deal here in CT. My OTD was 27200 for 2014 EX-L sedan I4 CVT. Looks like the east and west coast are pretty evenly matched at this stage!

    I had done a ton of research and a couple of my friends benefitted from it since they wanted to buy Accords to and ended up getting the same deal. I got a nice kickback from the dealer. If anyone in and around CT interested, PM me and I can share the details!
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    Good job on your purchase. What were your dealers doc fee charge?

    Enjoy your new accord.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    meh... liars always gonna find a way to lie. Remember that one of the key metrics for car salesmen is what % if test drives lead to a sale. So when you test drive, realize the price was a lie, and then walk, the end up being the ones holding the bag. Food for thought.

    What I find amazing in this process is the obsession with the fraudulent invoice price of $28,543 ($28,043 after flex cash). lol such bs since we know there is around $1,000 holdback plus potentially massive bonuses from Honda for sales targets. Dealer after dealer cites this price to me, and treats it like the holy grail of pricing. When I tell that that I think their true cost after flex is $26,800 and that they could sell to me for $27,300 and make a tidy profit, 80% of them recoil and tell me that the price is IMPOSSIBLE, and that no one else will give that price since "we all pay Honda the same price for the car and no dealer will LOSE money on the sale." bs bs bs bs.

    Thankfully I'm finding the MD market a lot better than tri-state. A firm $27,500, a possible $27,250, and a possible under $27,000 (hard to believe). Would like to tie this up this week... we will see. Would be great to send a smarmy e-mail to the dealers telling me I will never get under $28,000 pointing out that useless overpriced stone age shops have no future in the open information internet age.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited November 2013
    Honda's dealer hold back is 2% of base MSRP. Not Including dest charge of $790..

    Hold backs will range from 400's on the lower models to about 700 on the top of line accords. Plus dealer incentives, manufacturer to dealer cash, hush money, sales incentives all things we have no clear cut proof how much they are getting. And on top of that this so called dealers invoice price is probably padded for dealerships to make a few more bucks.

    i guess its safe to say you did not buy a car today.

    You should hit your mark this month.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    You figure they sold to hogan at $27k and said they are making minimal profit, so put real cost at $26.8 or so.

    Super busy and the dealerships I wanted to do business with ran out of flex cash. I'm going to try to get the same prices they offered minus the $500 flex cash this week. We will see how that one goes. Obv they wanted me to buy today, so they claimed they "adjusted" the prices down $500 to account for no flex cash. Sounds like bs, their margin should be the same pre flex and post flex -500 $.

    Aaloke,

    There is no PM here from what I can tell. on the Driveaccord forum you said you got 24,900 + 399 dealer fee = 25,300 on an EX-L or $1350 under invoice. That is a great deal. If you pm me the dealership and salesman names on driveaccord, I will reach out and see if they will do $27,200 on a V6 which is also $1350 under invoice. If they will, and my sub $27k offer doesn't pan out, I would pull the trigger at that price, and you should get a referral fee. Not sure they will agree to go that deep though on a V6 though.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    So, instead of trying to micro analyze this to death why don't you simply make them a COMMITTED offer of what you think the car is worth to YOU?

    Tell them that you WILL make that one offer and that if accepted, you WILL buy it and drive it home today?

    Instead of worrying about how much evil profit they just might be making, just offer what you are willing to pay!

    Tell then that it's a take it or leave it offer...PERIOD!

    If they accept it, you should be happy. If the decline, you'll know you didn't offer enough and you can go from store to store making that same offer.

    It really doesn't have to be that difficult!
  • aaloke83aaloke83 Member Posts: 6
    Brian and Veers,

    My offer was structured this way. Cost 24900 (tax was on 25500 because I got 500 off via Honda financing cash and 100$ visa gift card) + 399 dealer fee + 6.35% CT sales tax + 188 registration

    Veers, I PM'ed you on driveaccord for dealer name and my information so you can try your luck on a V6.
  • hiker10hiker10 Member Posts: 17
    It looks like the amount you put down brought down the residual on your car. The Honda LX is 13891. Yours for the top of the line is14681. 15000 miles a year will cost more monthly than 12000 miles. You have to remember that if you decide not to buy your car you can use your leased car as equity. Turning it in early will cause you to pay more for your lease again. Dealers don't have to pay tax when purchasing a leased car. You say you are planning to buy the car, so if it's a good car you can do so, and if not turn it in and that will be to your advantage. The oil changes keep your car in top condition so take advantage of that. The oil changes on the Honda cost more because they need to use a certain type. That is worth something.
    True Car is a business and gets a referral, so take that into consideration. It is hard to figure costs from a board when the geographic location is a determining factor in that. There is a Honda dealer near me in Woodland Hills CA that will add on to the lease. I just read about two guys that had that happen to on YELP. I always think I shouldn't go in alone because they will take advantage of a woman walking in alone. If you feel you paid a little more, they certainly didn't take your life savings. Enjoy your car and remember that you bought a good product. I think it's hard for a dealer when some people basically want a car for free. I wish it was a set price. I read this article in the NY Times that talks about car buying.http://bucks.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/01/08/what-i-learned-the-hard-way-abo- ut-leasing-a-car/?_r=0
  • johnnguyen714johnnguyen714 Member Posts: 46
    Hello, anyone know how much off invoice can people get today for a 2013 Honda Civic Ex since it is one month from 2014?
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited December 2013
    Depending on your area with supply and demand of 2014's on dealers lots your target price to buy or lease should be

    1800 to 3000 below invoice plus any incentives and rebates that apply to you on the 2013.

    what state are you looking to buy..

    Remember Jan,1 st 2014 your 2013 model is considered 1 year old model. If your car is totaled or stolen you need to Re-coupe the depreciation value of a 1 yr civic. Not to mention your INS co. will take the deductible off the top of the vehicle price before sending out the check. Keep that in mind when negotiating price on a 2013... Good luck

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • albert284albert284 Member Posts: 2
    Hiker, thanks for the reply. I am young in my 20s and learned from my mistake. I am locked in for 3 years and I don't plan on turning it in early. It is a good product and I enjoy driving it.

    The only thing that can help me now is to learn more about my options at the end of 3 year lease. Can you please elaborate on "if you decide not to buy your car you can use your leased car as equity"? What steps should I take to find out the true value and by how much over/under it is from residual value? Lets say I find out the car is worth $16,000, or about $1,500 more than residual value, how can I use this towards my next lease or purchase?

    Thanks,
    Al
  • veersveers Member Posts: 81
    Isell, you greatly understate the complexity and multitude of factors involved in getting a great deal on a new car. You say just figure out what the car is worth to you, and take that number in take it or leave it fashion to dealership after dealership until one accepts.

    This neglects the fundamental economic tension in the new car buying market. Dealers get the car from the manufacturer at a certain cost. Its not the joke "invoice" price, but rather a much lower true price reflecting all kickbacks. On the other side there is me, the consumer. The dealership has no idea of what the car is actually worth to me. That depends on my utility preferences, my time horizon, my liquidity situation, etc... To the extent my value on the car exceeds their true cost, there is a deal to be made. Both sides will try to get the better side of the deal. To wit, the dealer would like me to pay what the car is worth to me (your suggested solution!). I would like to get the car at the minimum price the dealership will sell it for, which is their true cost + some minimal profit margin. I'm ignoring some dynamic pricing and market factors for the sake of simplicity. The challenge here is that neither side knows the true numbers for the other side!

    Thus, my goal is to figure out the lowest price a dealer will sell the car to me for. I'd also like to know how much that will go down if I wait a few weeks. So, instead of going around like Bobst with a pre-written out check (which might well lead to overpaying!), I prefer to reach out to dealers, get their "best" price, and try to negotiate them down to their true best price. This is complicated because different salesmen at the dealer can often push through a different bottom line price, and the fact that the price changes over time.

    In my case, I feel confident that $27 flat would be a great price (though I'd like to see any applicable December incentives first). I will be shopping this price to the most competitive dealers over the next week and see if any of them bite, though I must say that most of them are still whining that they will lose money at that price (Lies!). If I fail to push through $27 flat by the end of the month, I will need to reassess.
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