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Anyone who buys a depreciating asset like a car needs to hedge against depreciation as much as possible. And the dealer needs to unload, so that's a factor in higgin's favor.
When targeting "just the right price," what negotiating room does one have ?
One can't get prices for a new 2003 Accord at this time; that's why pricing for a used 2003 with 100 miles was used for baseline reference. Having this kind of info on hand during the nego is critically important in my experience.
Now, I know I have heard about 3% holdback, and other good deals, but remember I got my car on November 8th. How did I do? Please - honestly is what I want - if I didnt get as good a deal as I thought, please let me know.
jelly_admn
It may not work all the time, but there's power behind sitting face to face with the dealer, telling them in no uncertain terms that it's a done deal if the terms are right (ref matthew633's comment).
My last tip on this particular deal: inform dealer the 03 involves owner downtime because of various bugs of the car. Case in point, I've been to the dealer 4 times so far for interior noises and front brake problems, and they've not been resolved yet.
Good luck.
I know I don't do the things you described and I am perfectly capable of being an "Internet Manager" whenever needed.
MSRP is $28,500 plus $490 destination for a total of $28,990.
My purchase price was calculated as follows:
Invoice is $25,377 plus $490 destination for a total of $26,131. I deducted $855 holdback, added local advertising & profit and made a telephone offer of $25,377 to the Internet Manager. The order was accepted for an in-stock vehicle.
I immediately drove over to complete the paperwork (with no pressure to add ANYTHING). I actually changed my mind and decided to lease based upon the negotiated purchase price.
I'm happy. The dealer, Mahwah Honda in northern NJ, is happy. I love driving the car and especially enjoy interacting with the Navigation system.
msrp 28990
invoice 26131
price paid 26181 with mats
I'm to meet with the salesman at 2pm, so I call about 1 to let him know I may be a few minutes late. The individual who answers the phone says that salesman no longer works at the dealership, and neither does the Sales Manager who'm I'd worked with regarding the trade-in! WTF? Basically, in the last 3 weeks these 2 guys have left the place! Here's my question: must the dealership honor the offers that were made on their behalf (ie $22,300 OTD and $12,500)? Thanks for your help guys.
I too am considering 04 EX-V6 and live in NJ. Could you please tell me which dealer did you buy it from? Any other dealers you visited/got quotes from?
Thanks,
ss.
I'm curious. Where did you get that figure for the invoice for the car? Invoice for that car is listed as $25,551. What is the percentage of factory holdback that you use? Is it 3%? Did that figure that you quoted to us factor in taxes? What was the OTD cost that you got? Thanks.
Anyone have other experiences in Boston or MA?
ltmarks:
Sorry for the typo in my post #3541. It should have read:
"MSRP is $28,500 plus $490 destination for a total of $28,990.
My purchase price was calculated as follows:
Invoice is $25,641 plus $490 destination for a total of $26,131. I deducted $855 holdback (3% of MSRP), added local advertising & profit and made a telephone offer of $25,377..."
Here's where you can find the invoice price for my 2004 Honda Accord EX V-6 2dr Coupe with Automatic Transmission and Navigation:
http://www.edmunds.com/new/2004/honda/accord/100346474/prices.htm- - - l?tid=edmunds.n.mipmake.pricetable.num11.1.honda*
Regarding your questions about taxes and OTD, those factors are immaterial to comparing deals in different states. Tax rates are different, so there is no point in my indicating mine since it won't necessarily mean anything where anyone else lives. OTD may mean something else to you than it does to me. That is, you may or may not have a tradein. I didn't, since I sell my cars privately. You may or may not have purchased optional equipment or services. I didn't.
The only way to legitimately compare deals is to ignore all factors other than the bottom line you and the dealer are willing to agree upon for a vehicle. Everyone, all over the country can relate to that figure. Only then can you discuss local taxes, registration, tradein, options, etcetera, since those are local variables.
ltmarks:
Your dealer may have "laughed" at $25,377, but the deal was real. I'm driving it. Work the numbers with other dealers. You'll get a much better deal than you've described. It's best to shop on the last few evenings of the month or quarter. Even better if the weather is bad and customer traffic is light. If they want to meet their sales figures, they'll deal.
How did you determine that local advertising and profit are $101?
Invoice: 23,304.62 MSRP: 25,900.00
Destination: 460.00
3% dealer hold back (MSRP): 777.00
Dealer cash back: 500.00
Additional 500.00 off to move it.
So, 23,304.62 PLUS 460.00, LESS 777.00,
LESS 1000.00 (2 x 500). FINAL PRICE=21988
Does it make sense??
It is for my wife who wanted a car under $20,000. I wanted the side airbag, traction control, front/rear disc. The major things she lost in not getting an EX are the moon roof and alloy wheels which she does not care about. The V6 lx seems to be a good deal as it includes a lot of convenience features of the EX and some the EX 4cyc. does not have - 8 way power seat and traction control and a V6. It has the side airbags, 6 CD changer, steering mounted audio controls, security system, 16 inch wheels. It suited out needs.
You have an incredible offer on the table - just look at the other posts. Take the offer, get the car, and enjoy it.
The $101 was a starting point. I was prepared to go higher, to perhaps as much as $350. That step just wasn't necessary.
1. Entered the dealership in a fear-induced rage, just knowing we would cheated.(anger distorts your thinking)
2. Had little idea about what would be a fair price.
3. Felt sorry for the salesperson (did he/she feel sorry for us?)
4. did not know EXACTLY what car we wanted.
5. did not realize that every car on the lot is a WASTING ASSET--every day worth less and less.
6. Bought into the threat that "...this deal is for right now only, will be higher tommorrow."
7. Bought the first model year of a car.
8. Paid top dollar for cars that were in high demand: e.g., PT Cruiser, VW Beetles in the early 70's; HONDA Odessey, etc. (think about the guy driving a first model year lemoney PT Cruiser which he paid $2000 over invoice for and didn't even get the color he wanted)
9. Got the car for a good price but got reamed on the 'back end': finance, undercoating, window etching, stripes, extened warranty.
10. Forget our muliplication tables: when the finance guy said, "...look for just 14 dollars extra a month you can get the sunroof that your wife wants..." we took the bait, not realizing that $14 X 60 months of our 5 yr loan would add up to about $900.00 (interest) for a $490 sun roof.
i just purchased 04 accord coupe.
i was offered a extended warranty of 7 years/100K
for $885 with $0 deductible. I purchased the Xtended warranty knowing if i have a change of heart i can cancel it in 60 days.
should i keep the warranty?
thanks in advance.
I passed on this because you can always purchase it later.
I disagree just a little with bd21 about the likelihood you'll use the warranty. I've had 7 Hondas, and I love them, but I think they are not quite as bulletproof as they used to be. I think $800-900 is quite reasonable for 64,000 miles of extra warranty coverage, especially if you will use most or all of those miles during the warranty period.
regards,
kyfdx
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Looking to buy 04 Accord EX V6 this month end or next month. What is everyone paying. So far, I have seen mixed numbers. Someone paying as low as 23.5k and other as much as 25+.
I am trying to figure out if I should start negotiations with invoice price or invoice - holdback. Will that be too aggresive?
Thanks for any tips,
SS
I also bought it because I am risk averse (smile). I realize that, statistically speaking, over the entire group of people buying these warranties that Honda is collecting more in premiums than they are paying out in claims, but all that is going to be meaningless if there is a significant problem with my car after the warranty expires. Also, if you are planning to sell the car yourself some day before the end of the warranty period, you will likely get a premium from a seller who knows that the car is still covered under a factory warranty.
Conclusion -- unless you are strapped for cash, my advice is to keep it. BTW, you can cancel after 60 days, but you get a pro rata refund, less any claims you have made I believe. Check the back of your Honda Care application for more information.
Hope this helps -- congrats. on the car.
$50 over invoice for 6speed manual coupe
Msrp 28990 price paid 26181.
One thing I would do differently is buy the accessories on line. Much cheaper even with shipping added.
regards,
kyfdx
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regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
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Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Good luck!
was it based on the actual invoice of the car, with a profit added? (in other words, how much research did you do ahead of time?)
or was it a number you just decided you can afford?
thus far, i'm not much sympathetic to you. but things change. show me you're being reasonable with the $26000 out the door figure.
As is the nature of highly competitive businesses like car retail, there's almost always month-end pressure to meet sales quota, especially for volume models like the Accord.
Thus, it's to the buyer's advantage to time the purchase at month-end. This simple strategy worked well for me over the last 14 months, buying 2 Accords - the first at invoice, the second $900 below - when TMV was substantially above invoice.
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Purchased 2004 EXV6 Accord in early November. MSRP on car is 26890, invoice is 24244 (including destination). Price I paid out the door, including everything, was $25989.84. The car itself was 24294, which included destination, the wing spoiler (~$500), the auto day-night mirror (~$300), and wheel locks. We first agreed on 23k + destination for car, than added options I wanted. Tax was $1457.64 (6% in NJ), registration was $96.20, doc fee of $142. 1.9% financing and I was done. The car came with 11 miles on it, and has been trouble free.
Now, I know I have heard about 3% holdback, and other good deals, but remember I got my car on November 8th. How did I do? Please - honestly is what I want - if I didnt get as good a deal as I thought, please let me know.
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Thanks
2004 Accord Coupe EX V6 Auto Mud Guards & pinstripes w/o Nav
23,936
25,900 OTD w/7% sales tax
Did my online priceing with two dealers. No hassle, went in with price in hand...test drove it...bought it...paperwork in an hour...best new car buying experience ever.
Oh yeah...the XM radio is the greatest!