Electric Windows

Comments

• adithya Member Posts: 2

  June 2001

  I am not familiar with the electric windows in the Grand Marquis specifically but electric windows typically fail for the following reasons:
  
  1.) The window regulator mechanism is overstressed because the path in which the window is driven is not compatible with the curvature of your door. This is a basically a fundamental design flaw. This flaw is accentuated by normal build variations.
  
  2.) Motor failure due to the abnormal loads created by the situation described above.
  
  3.) Underpowered motor.

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• jaki30 Member Posts: 73

  June 2001

  1993 Crown Vic. Driver side failed once. Poor design lift mechanism. Dealer
  carries them in stock. That should tell you something.
  1994 Merc Sable. Three (3) right rear motor failures. Poor design drain system
  allows water to rust motor/bearing-armature assembly.
  Solution? Merc is now a 2001 Civic EX. CV is now a 2001 Infiniti I-30.
  Ford is the best advertisement the foreign automakers have!!

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• spokane Member Posts: 514

  June 2001

  A replacement window lift motor from the dealer, installed, should cost $135 -$180. One failure in six years is abnormal but not surprising. Five failures is ridiculous even if the operator tries repeatedly to open the windows when they are frozen shut. Gift0025, are you experiencing motor failures or something else? If the problem is motor failure ... it seems that the circuit breaker(s) are not working properly which could allow electric current to overheat the motors to the point of failure. Sorry I can't offer more info as I don't know details of the Mercury's breaker circuitry.

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• gift0025 Member Posts: 4

  June 2001

  The specific part that has failed in all cases is a part called a "regulator assembly". No motors have failed. I, too, do not understand why it costs to repair as it does. I know that 2 hours of labor are routinely charged, plus the cost of the part, plus a surcharge for "garage chemicals, rags, screws, etc."

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• spokane Member Posts: 514

  June 2001

  I'm stumped. The nylon sliders on some Ford and GM regulators can fail, usually when the window has been raised and lowered many times. These devices cost less than $10 so, even with high labor rates, $400 per event is too high. Failure of the metal structural part of the regulator should be extremely rare. Suggest that you take the damaged components to an independent mechanic and get his assessment. (Note that the regulator is the scissors mechanism that attaches to the lower edge of the window glass and converts the motor action to a lift/lower action.) Let us know what you learn, please.

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• jaki30 Member Posts: 73

  June 2001

  The window lift /regulator mechanism in the Ford CV is NOT a scissors type
  lift mechanism. It consists of a stamped sheet metal runner, approx. 2-3"
  wide. Part of the runner is a nylon piece that resembles the letter "C". This
  slides up and down the runner. The nylon piece is moved up/down via a steel
  cable that is looped around rollers on top and bottom of the runner and are
  wound around a plastic drum which is rotated by the motor. This usually fails
  where the cables are attached to the nylon C piece. The assembly w/o the
  motor costs $75 from the dealer. The assembly has to be removed from the
  window and door. That means rivets have to be drilled. It took me more than 2
  hours, but I had a large learning curve. At $70/hr here in Ct., and $75 for the part
  it should cost $215 plus tax. Cheaper if it was already done once, since you can
  bolt things back together. It was not fun. PS: You have to buy the whole assy.

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• spokane Member Posts: 514

  June 2001

  Thanks; I've learned something. From your description, this regulator is quite different from the type I mentioned. I would expect a cable-and-capstan design to be less durable than the familiar worm gear. Sorry we haven't helped gift0025; his extreme failure rate is puzzling unless he's operating the window lifts VERY frequently or perhaps blasting large quantities of detergent down between the window glass and the weather stripping .. which should show up as some sort of corrosion or residue on the mechanism.

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• bigalds Member Posts: 47

  July 2001

  gift0025, try doing a little electric window maintenance on your windows. One possibility of your problem is that the life of the parts are shortened because of excessive strain on the cables or parts. I would be sure that the windows can freely move up and down in their channels, it is a good idea to spray some silicone spray lube down and in the channels to let the glass slide up and down more easily. I use spray white grease on my window channels, because it seems to work better and last longer than the silicone, but is more messy. But cleaning and wiping up is easy. I would suggest this as a regular maintainance for all electric windows, done as often as you change oil & lube your car. If possible, remove your interior door panels and spray lube on all the moving parts, cables, rollers, sliders and whatever. The idea is to get the regulator and glass to move smoothly and easily. Consider it your "Window Lube Service" and see if that helps.

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• C13 Member Posts: 390

  July 2001

  One of my windows gets slower and slower (to rise), especially when it's wet out. Common problem? Cheap solution?
  
  Say yes.
  
  It's a '95 Honda Civic.

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• swschrad Member Posts: 2,171

  July 2001

  and lube the channels... if you are in a position to pull the door trim and lube the track, gears, etc. of the window machine as well, do it, and if there are any deflectors on the bottom of the door that look like they should be over the window machine, get 'em back in place so the water drips past the seal flap by the glass don't wash the new lube off.

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• C13 Member Posts: 390

  July 2001

  Thanks. I'll let you know how it works out.

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