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Chevrolet TrailBlazer Accessories and Modifications
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I also took off my roof rack and put back in the original black screws with a lot of silicone in the screw holes. Sure hope this keeps the water out. Can anyone foresee a problem using the original screws other than looking ugly. I also noticed there are threaded cups that the screws go into (not directly into the roof). So there is a chance for moisture in both the screw hole and under the cup. I used the original screws just for the slim chance I may need to use the original rack some day. Currently I use the trailer hitch mount for bikes and skis.
Gnarley Mc.
http://www.trailblazerstuff.com/
had a change in the idle speed?
Also little too loud in cabin area.
let me know!!!!
P.S. I have a 2002 LS group 3 pkg. Trailblazer.
Accessories are: tint windows to match the back,
rainguards, hood protector, ss sidestep bars, ss front
chevy plate with gold racing flags on it.
I luv this truck!!!!
kent
What are your experiences? Quality? Ease of installation?
I removed the spare tire tools and used the two studs to bolt my DVD player brackets to, fits nicely under the rear seat, now I just need switched power.
VIN 1GNDS13S822421574
Would recommend getting them with the vehicle when you buy it. Last year they were not available for the LS. I notice now they are.
I have an LTZ with the Sideview Mirrors and I have found that water builds in the turn signals. I have asked the dealer that I have my truck serviced at about this and the Sideview mirrors are notorious for building up water.
Just an FYI
Or to find altezza light for the TRAILBLAZER in the USA. And could you indicate a URL for this accessory to me.
I live in EUROPE.
Thank you in advance
Dual 6" LCD displays installed in the headrests, wireless headphones also installed with the transmitter up top in the headliner. FM modulator also installed to pipe the music to the stereo, but I get a darned alternator whine. I have the modulator running on AAA batteries right now, so trying a ground loop won't work. I have read that FM modulators have the tendency to whine anyways. It probably wouldn't be so bad if I didn't have to turn up the radio so much to hear the incoming signal, but there is no gain on the unit. I will try the DC power supply to see if that improves it any.
But I digress... My daughter just loves the fact that she can now watch movies in the car and have a screen all to herself! I used to lug my laptop with me for longer trips so she could watch a movie but that was becoming a bit of a hassle. Well worth the price of the components, and only took a day to do the install!
-Mark
I'm sure the wiring is already there. From what I have been told, there are hookups for pretty much everything. I've even got fuses installed for things I don't have.
I've had the bolt covers off of the front of my roof rack rails dozens of times when taking my cross bars on/off. I've never seen anything that would lead me to believe this would be a plug-n-play type of modification. Please tell me I'm wrong, because I'd sure love to do this, and I'm squeemish (putting it mildly) about having to drill any sort of holes in the roof to get power to the lights.
What is up in that hump in the middle of the ceiling over the arm rest up front? I have no sun roof and no overhead console, so why is it there?
One cool thing I found out when I was back in the dash was that everything seems to have a dedicated ground. Makes it much easier than trying to find a screw to use.
I contacted GM and asked about the parts. They requested that I supply the VIN of a NF Trailblazer so that they can make sure to get a compatible part to fit mine. I explained that I live several states away from where the things are sold and such a request may prove difficult. I also mentioned that the only difference between a NF and a standard are the added options. Hopefully he realizes this and gives in. But if not, does anyone here have a NF edition and could reply back with their VIN?
Thanks for your help!
This truck had exactly the same type of tube steps as I've been looking for. Doing a bit more digging, and I found the site for the company that created the show truck, and on that site a group of pages on the truck in question. There I found information that indicated that Go Rhino! made the steps used on the truck.
Searching for Go Rhino! tube steps for the Trailblazer, the closest product I could find was the 4000 Series Sumatra Sidesteps. But there were NO pictures of these anywhere. So after several telephone calls and an e-mail I finally managed to get in touch with the Go Rhino! tech named 'Pete'. He said that the 4057C, 4057B, and 4057PS were the steps I was interested in (Chrome, Black, and Polished Stainless). He also looked up a supplier that I could get them through.
So now I've got an order in through J.C. Whitney for the polished stainless steps. I also placed an order through another online site for the Go Rhino! lighted step pads, which are supposed to be direct fit replacements for the standard step pads on all Go Rhino! side step products.
I'll post an update once I receive the steps (I'm still nervous that they'll turn out to be the nerf-style steps that are what you get in the 4000 series for most other vehicles).
The lighted steppads that I ordered for them came in the day before yesterday. I didn't have the steps themselves in yet, but I tentatively opened one of the packages (2 pads per box) and extracted the installation instructions. Besides the fact that there isn't much detail in the instructions, I was able to make sense of most of what they say. It's a fairly simple job to remove the old step pads and put the new ones on in their place (stringing the wires for the lights into holes in the tubes under the pads). They then indicate that the wires should be pulled through the leading end of the tube and through a hole drilled in their mounting bracket on the truck frame. This is fine and dandy for the nerf style bars that make up most of the GoRhino 4000 series (for other vehicles), since the leading edge of the tube is directly against the mounting bracket / vehicle frame, and out of sight.
Unfortunately for me, since the steps are the style I wanted, if I follow the directions for installing the lighted steppads explicitly, there'll be some ugly exposed wires sticking out of the front of the otherwise great-looking tube steps. The other alternative is to drill a hole in the tube steps near / beside the mounting bracket (and out of sight unless you get under the truck), route the wires through that, and somehow seal the hole around the wires (I'm thinking rubber grommits + silicone caulk or RTV). The bad part about the workable method is that it voids the 'Limited Lifetime Warranty' GoRhino proves on the Polished Stainless steps (5 years for the anodized black or chrome steps). At least, I think it does. Still waiting on word on that part back from their tech person, who I e-mailed about this situation. I may end up returning these steppads and doing without the extra-cool looking lighting. Sad ME.
1) I'd need a drill bit that is harder than usual (or something like a carbide bit that I can chuck after I finish).
2) I need to tape off the wiring where it exits through the hole with electrical tape. This is to prevent the wire from "chaffing" against the edge of the tube and getting cut / shorting out. He also recommended using some silicone sealant around the wires. When I told him that I was considering using some of the good rubber grommits (available from Radio Shack stores), along with some silicone caulk / sealant, he said that it should work fine.
So Now I'll be looking to drill out the tubes for the wiring, probably somewhere very close to one of the two welded mounting supports on the bars. But before I do that, I have to talk to my local Chevy dealer to see what the best place to tap into the 12v courtesy lighting circuit is (and how, since nearly all the electrical systems on the trailblazer are linked through the data bus in some form or other, and I don't want to screw some electronics up during this install).
Also got my new carputer sitting here for loading all my MP3z and GPS software. Once my bank account has recovered from the two purchases, I've got to obtain an LCD touchscreen.
Another thing. I took the pleasure of blowing the 125amp Mega fuse up on the front fuse panel. While replacing it I noticed a thin red wire that had been pulled back and hooked to a wire bundle clamp as though someone were trying to keep it from making contact again. It's got a connector on it that fits perfectly on a post at the corner of the fuse panel next to the left of Mega fuse. Is this wire supposed to be disconnected? I'm wondering if a mechanic forgot the reattach it.
This is on a 2002 LS.
Thanks for the help!!!
The box attached to the rear fuse panel is the computer...I think. I was refering to my Carputer. I'm installing a Mini-ITX computer under the other seat. It's got a 40G drive to hold all my MP3s and GPS software. I'll mount a touchscreen LCD somewhere up in front to control it. Sound will get to the radio through an FM mod I'm using for my XM.
http://www.mini-itx.com/store/default.asp?c=2¤cy=2
Part #'s?
How much did they cost you? From whom?
From where did you get power?
How/where are they switched?
Tell me more about this drilling/sawing!!! I'm thinking that even if I could get the parts for free, the drilling and/or sawing might prevent me from ever installing.
Sorry for all the questions. I'm very interested in pursuing this, but just don't know if I've got the rocks.
The first two are the left and right lenses. The third is the wiring harness and you'd need two of them. The total price was $158.94 through GMPartsDirect.com. It costs twice as much through the dealer.
The '02 TB has a screw hole in the front mount of each rack rail that is not used. I used this for the placement of the roof holes. You'll want to remove the rails, of course, and you'll see the three screw holes with the center one not used. Using a 1" holesaw, you center on where that screw would go. I used WD-40 as a cutting oil to keep the heat down and lube the saw.
When you have the holes drilled, you might want to then run the wire. I decided to run a wire on either side from the brake lights. I used wire tap clips so I wouldn't have to cut wire and void anything. Pull the panels back on either side to expose the wiring harness going to the brake lights. Hook your neg to the ground that is screwed into the body. On the right side you'll need to tap into the brown/white wire and then brown wire on the left for the positives. Run the wires up to the ceiling and down to your holes. To get the grab handles detached, open the coveres and you'll find a little plastic clip inside. Pushing it to the side will release the handle.
This all would be a lot easier to describe with pictures.
Bring your wires up through the holes and splice into your wiring harness. I soldered the ends together and wrapped them in shrink tubing. Push the rubber gasket on the harness into the hole. Widen the holes in your roof rack gasket and the rack mount so you can get the bulb through. You should now be all wired up.
Now, the aluminum tracks in the rack are a little bit too long in the '02 and '03 TB for the lenses to fit. You'll need to cut 1.25" off the forward end. Don't cut the wrong end! File the edge down so it won't cut the wire from vibration. Re-attach your rack and slide on the cross pieces. Stick the bulbs into the lenses, lock into place and snap the lenses down.
It's as easy as that!
The drilling kinda freaked me out at first but it was no big deal.
I'll let you know when I screw up enough courage to jump into this project. Thanks again.
The drilling wasn't that big of a deal. Produced a horrible noise though. If you are afraid of leaks, you can get some RTV sealant to put around the rubber thingy before you push it into the roof hole.
Here is a picture of the various parts. I wish it were bigger but Yahoo has resrtictions.
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ericmevans/detail?.dir=/Eric%27s- +Pictures&.dnm=705b.jpg
I have the depression outlined with the green rectangle.
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ericmevans/detail?.dir=/Eric%27s- +Pictures&.dnm=d9af.jpg
I am concerned as to whether there is a factory harness connector above the liner that I can plug into for the console. Has anyone taken off their liner in their LS? If so, was there a console harness connection up there somewhere? I hate to go through the whole liner removal only to be disappointed. Any input would be SO appreciated!