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Infiniti I30/I35 Accessories and Modifications
What accessories and/or modifications have you done to your I30?
KarenS
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KarenS
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Are deslers equipped to handle this. Do you know what they charge.
I'm going to buy a Thule rack, but need a hitch.
Thanks. john
I am about to put a Drawtite Class 1 hitch on my 2001 infiniti i30t. Supposedly it is the only hitch that will fit on this vehicle. I ordered a Thule Space Station base 920 to fit the 1 1/4 inch hitch receiver and the rac and lok module from Thule to hold 2 bikes. With class 1 hitch, you can't hold anymore than 2 bikes. Any reputable hitch shop should be able to order the hitch and install in about an hour. I paid 110 bucks for the hitch and 45 labor. I'll let you know how it goes once I get everything installed.
jay
Thanks.
I live in California; however, Drawtite is a very popular brand and any hitch/trailer shop should be able to order it. I have had the hitch now for about 2 weeks and it looks great! You can't really tell its there when I have my bike rack off.
Jay
ps
you can email me and I can send you pics of the hitch if you like. jay-banerjee@home.com
I just transffered data from and old computer to a new PC and my emails didn't make it. Can you email me again. I have the pics of the hitch and bike rack.
jay
jay-banerjee@home.com
Another thing that definitely cuts down on the (already minimal) wind noise is having a silicone treatment on the window (and sunroof) seals. This can be done yourself if you know what you're doing, or for about $25-$40 if you don't. It's something that a person like myself that lives on the ocean in direct salt-air would need to do to keep their vehicle in top shape every 18 months or so, anyway. If you live in an extremely hot area with little or virtually no humidity, you'd be doing yourself a favor, too - the seals are too good (witness some people complaining about the door not closing without a good push), but either of these particular environments could easily cause dry rot to set in after a short while if you're planning on keeping your I35 a while!
Some people think the standard speakers could use a little work, but beware that the built-in Bose audio system uses a 6-ohm resistance speaker set, so if you put in standard 4-ohm speakers, you get better quality with a slight loss of ear-busting power. Using top-end speakers (say, exact fit Infiniti speakers with Kappa/Emit tweaters up front, or the [also exact fit] Sony X-Plod' models in the back doors), you can't go wrong. The stereo imaging and separation are a whole lot cleaner, as well. I know - you have to be a real purist (I sing) to go there, but it's quite a step up since the basic unit has a quite nice, clean, clear output! There's really NO reason to put in anything to replace the boomer on the rear deck unless you're a real sadist - it rocks... I suppose you could do so, but it's a very odd shaped unit - might require some major mods. Now, one might think you could overdrive the amplifier, but by leaving the original bass unit in the rear deck, you end up with around 5-ohm effective overall, since it pulls almost half the power. My (EE) friend tells me it's not likely possible, but if you're really worried, you could always use a multi-resistance amplifier to augment the 200 watts you have to start with (but why would you need to?). You may want to adjust the sound stage one step to the front (i.e. "FR1") to compensate if you want a better balance of treble and bass. I'm not a "boom box" kind of guy, but the rear bass can rock the back window as it is!
I get a bit better gas mileage than the reports that I've seen from most people - sometimes in the range of 35+ when driving at lower speeds on cruise control, so I suspect it does have an effect of lowering the overall CD (coefficient of drag) as advertised. I typically get around 20mpg or better in city driving, and around 30mpg or so on the highway, and I've actually seen it register 49.4mpg one time when I just wanted to see what you get if you're in an area that has a long 40mph stretch with the cruise control engaged... Certainly quite a lot better than you would expect! I've measured it several times on my way home and at 68mph on cruise control, I get a consistent 29.4mpg from the smooth 3.5 liter V6.
>Mike<
Do you really think that the spoiler has that much impact on Mileage???? Also, I do not trust the on-line Computer MPG calculation. Have you measure Odometer Miles to Gallons Actually used (when you fill-up).
BTW, a local guy here is Chicago will install an aftermarket spoiler (Matched Paint) for $275, that is the installed Price. My I35 is Black and he says his paint job is better than the factory. He does provide the Rear Deck Blank for the removed Brakelight, which you can buy for $29 from the dealer.
Nick
I'm working on getting some picutes of "Ruby" (mine's a 'Royal Ruby' with beige interior) posted, but I'm still missing something there, too - just can't seem to get it to work like I want it to! I'll keep trying...
>Mike<
Ratledge - what exactly do you recommend doing? Silicone and rubber usually don't go together as the silicone will wick into the rubber and cause it to get gummy, or so I've heard.
>Mike<
>Mike<
The only thing I can think of is that my I35 is an early production release (11-01) and that an Engineering change has been made since. I did notice new I35's on the dealer's lot with the heated seat/steering wheel option, that have the burlwood knob factory installed.
The problem is that you don't want to pick ones that have too low a rating, because since you're overdriving the amplifier (it in essense becomes a 300 watt unit), you could be risking eating it up, too.
Having been a professional musician, the difference in clarity and 'soundstage' or separation is well worth the 'missing' low end (i.e. my stereo really doesn't make much noise until you get at least to 8 or 10 instead of a more linear curve).
>Mike<
speaker brands for replacement. Are they 6 1/4
or 6 1/2 inch ?? any help would be appreciated.
I don't remember the exact models #s off the top of my head, but if you look back in the main "Infiniti I35" forum, I posted it sometime around late November to mid-December, last year.
Please read the message closely, you are putting 4ohm speakers (standard for cars) in place of the 6ohm Bose speakers, and therefore you are 'overdriving' the amplifier, but then again - I've been doing it for more than 9 months now. You lose a bit of low-end (i.e. less than a volume of 10) sound because the replacement units both have a higher minimum power rating. Other than that, it rocks! The muddy (lack of of 'soundstage' preciseness) and separation goes away when you put in first quality high-end speakers. Now, if you are willing to put $250 into speakers (I went ahead and bought them from Crutchfield because I was too lazy to find them elsewhere), you'll be a happy man...
The A-pillar tweaters are not really driven much in this scenario - but you aren't really losing anything - the EMIT tweeters along with the properly aimed 3-way rear speakers (they rotate 360 degrees so you can 'aim' the high range precisely) are so clear it's awesome, and the added wattage from overdriving the amp (it essentially becomes a 300-watt head unit) the bass might have to be turned down a bit or it vibrates all the windows and the rear-view mirror. Note that the Infiniti Kappa speakers have an external cross-over filter, so it's worth another $20 per speaker (in my opinion) to have a good custom music installer put them in - besides - taking the dang doors appart is a real pain-in-the-rump!
Please find the message in the main forum and verify the sizes - it has been a while and my mind might be a bit fuzzy: I think those are correct. As I recall, the model # for the Infiniti Kappa speakers is for the slightly cheaper non-EMIT versions, but Crutchfield carries both - the $50 is worth it: they are metal-dome or panel type 'flat' ('piezo' / ceramic?) drivers that blow you away!
[RatMan]
By the way - I got the 'decimals' backwards - the front units are 6 1/2" round, rear are 5.25". The Sony X-Plod for the rear I used was XS-V1332, but the front is not available from Crutchfield any more as far as I can tell. "I've been known to be wrong before"...
[RatMan]
The *do* still carry the Infiniti 6 1/2" Kappa speakers - they just don't have them online. The ones I used are ultra-high-end model 63.5i that has the "EMIT" CMMD (Ceramic Metal Matrix Dome) for 'exquisite high-end frequency reproduction' and lists for $199/pair. There is a model 652.5i version without the EMIT tweaters for $149/pair plus a previously not listed (by Crutchfield, anyway) model 652i for $99/pair that does not have CMMD (poly instead) speakers. If you want the absolute best, go for the 63.5i models!
The Sony X-Plod 5.25" model XS-V1632 I used for the rear replacements is $99/pair, but they now have Infiniti models they did not have before: 52.5i CMMD versions at $149/pair and 552i poly model at $89/pair.
If you're going to go for it - might as well have the best. The Infiniti speakers have long been known for their super-efficient "uncolored" music reproduction, and the new CMMD models have diaphragms that just don't flex, therefore do not allow any unwanted resonance. All of these models except the 52.5i have 360 degree aimable tweaters so you can adjust the sound-stage exactly as you want it: I aimed my rear speakers straight up, since they are essentially right under your ears in the front seat and I don't have many backseat passengers. "Your milage may vary"...
Note that if you pick the combination I have, you get three-way (as opposed to most car speakers that have two-way) speakers front and rear for maximum fidelity. Peak power handling for the set of four is 425 watts, so you're well within the range of the overdriven amp (300 watts) and the lack of low-end (i.e. below 50 hertz) of the relatively small speakers is easily handled by the existing bass kicker in the rear deck.
>RatMan<
As a side note, does the entire seat (include back cushion) heat up or just the bottom cushion?
I looked at getting an aftermarket radio for this but apparently they do not make a kit that fits this make/model but I can get custom mold built to fit the dash.
I looked at getting a replacement factory unit but it is pretty expensive. If I get the factory head unit can I get aftermarket speakers or is there an issue with 2 ohms vs 4 ohms, etc... The guy at Circuit City told me this would be an issue but I have no clue.
So... I am basically asking for a recommendation, what would you do in my situation. I am prepared to spend around $1000 dollars.
Thanks
My $.02
Good luck with your car and let me know what set-up you go with.
My dad just bought me a 2003 I35 for my birthday. I used to have a 1998 S70. I LOVE the infiniti however eventhough it comes with a Bose sound system which my volvo didn't have (it came with the stock sound), the bass on my volvo was MUCh better than the i35. You could see the windows and mirrors vibrating if you put it all the way up and in the i35, you cant even tell if there is a bass or not. I ordered the owners manual already but...im wondering...is there something im supposed to do to have the bass? Thanks.