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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    I've got a 2001 I30 for 2.5 years now. It has 90K miles on it and there are no drive threatening problems yet though I have the O2 sensor related 'SES light' on for the past year. I changed the ingress sensor (the one that affects mileage) but left my egress sensors in failed state as my trusty mechanic said not to worry about them if I didn't want to fork out $600.

    The problem I have is intermittent but annoying never-the-less. On days when it is over 70F and the engine is restarted before it cools down, the engine makes a 'rattling chain' kind of noise when I accelerate between 30-45 mph. It's like a lose chain that is getting ready to come out of the pulley! It doesn't happen everytime (especially when the mechanic is checking it out) and my tranny works just fine (shifts okay). He said it could be very time consuming to find out but suggested premium fuel. That didn't make a difference as it was not an engine knocking sound. I can't imagine it being the timing chain? Anybody having a similar issue? The car has been running fine with that noise for 2 years but I cringe when I hear the sound as it should not be happening to a glorified Nissan. Thanks and great job over here...
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    do you still hear the sound if you push your gas on neutral? or only when your car is moving and your pushing on the gas?
  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    I haven't tried revving it on idle to see if the noise comes. I understand why you are asking now. I'll get back after checking it out. Thanks.
  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    OK, I had to wait a couple of days to hear that sound again. When I heard it, I pulled over and put the car in neutral and revved it. It hummed beautifully. But when I put it back on drive and pressed on the gas, the noise came back at 35 mph. Does that mean that it is not the engine or drive belts but something else? refugee, I appreciate your time...
  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    and yes, it happens only while accelerating, and that too from 30-45 mph. No noise while coasting or accelerating at higher speeds. And it happens only once in a few days when the outside temperature is above 70F. No sound in winter!
  • mlhartmlhart Member Posts: 2
    Hi Karen15

    I am on this fourm to find help for my problem on my 96 infiti, your problem seems to be the closest what I am having. My car leaves me stranded. I can start the car then go some where and get back in it and then it doesnt not start(dead with lights in dash board on only) I have to leave it there about 2 hrs. then it starts, if its any sooner trying to start it forget it. I dont know if it is the starter? wiring? I wanted to see if you can tell me what migh be wrong with yours? this is so werid to fix I mean I can get in the car start it like 2 times turning it on and off and the third time wont start as if I am tripping something to make it not turn on. Any HELP would be appricated.

    Thank you!

    Michelle
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    i have the same sound. Colder it is, the less noise there is. If i gas in neutral/park there's no noise or if i gas up fast no noise again. It seems like it only comes out at around 2000rpm when in 2nd gear or higher. I'm not sure if its the MAF (Mass air flow) sensor or something else but i'm pretty sure its the MAF. Let me know if you figure it out.
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    mlhart,
    maybe its your ignition coils or spark plugs
  • mlhartmlhart Member Posts: 2
    I think we just found the problem??, after reading everything on here and hearing the replys back, I went out to the car and turn the key on and off two times and sure enough, it did nothing on the 3rd try, I wanted to make the problem happen so I can see if that was the problem,(ignition) I put the key in and turned it with a little pressure and pulling upward at the same time, wella!! its turn over it STARTED!!, so its my ignition switch is bad. So we are fixing that now and If that is it then anyone out there with the same problem has me (and I seen a few of you online) Were you start your car one time and and tried for the 2nd or third time and nothing? And be stranded for hrs. at the doctors office or the store or even at your sons behind the wheel test day.(grrrr) Then you might be having the ingnition trouble I have mention.. I didnt want to spend money on a starter and other expensive things. I thought I would try the less exspensive way first.... and thank you refugeecamp for your input. this was the best thing for anyone to go on to for any of your car problems. I know I saved $$$$ doing it this way.

    " )
  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    Ah, so I am not alone. Is the sound like a rattling/lose chain noise? I was always attributing the noise to a moving part for that reason. Isn't the MAF to contro1 the airflow into the cylinders? Why would it cause a high pitch noise? My gas mileage is great (for a 3L V6) even with the annoying SES light. 21-22mpg mixed driving. So, I am not messing around with O2 sensors (or any other sensor) that cost an arm and a leg yet. You seem to be more of an auto expert than me. Did you investigate the cause of that sound with a mechanic or just ignored it since the car is running fine? I always have the fear that some belt is going to snap if I press the gas heard with that sound. Apart from the SES light and that sound, the car is awesome and I want to try and keep it for another 5-7 years before I am done with it (only 90K miles right now). I love its front profile (with chrome grill), dashboard controls (with analog clock) and interior room. I wish it would hold up to its poorer brethren (Maxima) when I press on the gas but I guess the extra 'luxury weight' has to show somewhere...
  • finballfinball Member Posts: 5
    Hello,
    I'm the owner of a 2000 I30 and have been trying to get information on changing the rear ignition coils for months now with no success. Does anyone have any information on how to do this? The front are fairly simple but I can't even find the others...any help would be appreciated.
    Thx.
    finball
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You could also post in the Got A Quick, Technical Question? discussion. It is not make/model specific, but a number of knowledgeable people hang out there. Someone may have suggestions for you.

    Good luck.
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    the front ones are L shaped, the rear ones are straight and go in at a 45 degree angle. Check from the side of your engine, you will see them pushed a bit further into the engine (not sticking out as easily as the front ones). Use a magnetic pole to fish out the screw when unscrewing the rear coils cause its too hard to fit the hand down there and most likely your screw will fall when u take it out. You don't have to remove any panels, u can see the coils.
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    My friend drove my car with the SES tester in the car and noticed that the MAF sensor has bad readings. I'm pretty sure the pining noise comes when the airflow isn't going into the engine properly, or else the noise would happen all the time, not just as gassing up. MAF sensor and ignition coils are the main problems of the 2000 i30 so i'm not surprised. Your car's performance decreases too when your MAF is not running correctly.
  • daniel25daniel25 Member Posts: 4
    Hi. I have an 2000 I30 with 100K miles. For the past several months, every morning I start the car and back out of my parking space with no issues. However, when I put the car into drive and step on the gas often times nothing happens initially. Then a few seconds later the car will surge forward. The engine continues to surge/not respond when I press on the gas for the first 30 seconds of driving. Quite scary in traffic! I also have the "pinging" issue that other have (maybe the engine surging and pinging issues are related?). It usually happens going up hill @ 30-50mph. Recently, the check engine light has come on -- code p1071 (bank one lean). The majority of people on different forums seem to agree that this is a MAF problem. I had all 6 ignition coils an an O2 sensor (not sure which one) replaced last year....

    I'm ordering a new MAF today and plan to replace it myself. I've heard conflicting information about whether or not the ECM needs to be updated after the MAF replacement. Does anyone know whether I need to update the ECM after the MAF replacement? I'd hate to spend 200 on a MAF and for it not to fix the problem...

    Any help would be great! Thanks.
  • trickplay461trickplay461 Member Posts: 7
    Hey Bud. You seem to be having the same problem I was having. The dealership actually tried to tell me that my transmission was shot (I30-T, 67K Miles). It was giving them an internal error code and the great acceleration my I30 had was gone. It would rev and lag then it would accelerate. High passing was a freaking nightmare! Anyway, I changed a few coils and also THOUGHT of changing some O2 sensors (lean error code also) but the car ran no differently when I unplugged a number of different O2 sensor. Frustrated I took it took a transmission specialist who told me frankly that he believed the car was just starved for air and was too new for a faulty tranny. He was running out of ideas on how to fix the problem when he called a buddy of his who had an I30. They brought over the other car, switched out the MAF sensors and presto!!! Car is running like a dream. Hope it helps.
  • daniel25daniel25 Member Posts: 4
    Crossing my fingers that you're right. The MAF comes in tomorrow. Will keep you posted.

    Anyone else have an issue with REALLY squeaky breaks? Went to Midas today and said that they couldn't find anything wrong with my breaks (pads seemed fine), but that they'd be happy to do a full break job if I really wanted to get rid of the squeak. Anyone have any luck with putting aftermarket ceramic break pads on?
  • trickplay461trickplay461 Member Posts: 7
    Just another word I wanted to mention. I dont know how true this is but the dealership actually complained to me that I was using excessive aftermarket parts on my car and would likely have much trouble down the road. One of these parts was an after-market air filter. Service tech told me that non-nissan air filters usually have an oily film that destryoys the MAF sensor. Dont know how true this is but I changed out my old filter for a stock factory filter right after my MAF replacement as a precaution. I use aftermarket alot cause my dealership's fees are just TOO STEEP to keep me coming back. Only do on that rare occasion I cant get an answer to a problem.
  • mck76mck76 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 I30 the car was towed and ever since then the air bag light has been on. I asked at the dealer if there is any relation and they said no that most likely it is a faulty air bag module the cost of replacing this is about $900 according to them. However, they said that infiniti will cover the part but only to a mileage of 75,000 my car has 98000 on it right now. Any one out there have any advice or face the same issue.
  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    Refugee, I suppose you didn't change your MAF sensor? If you do, let me know if that fixed your problem. The performance of the car is great and so is the gas mileage (21/22 mixed) despite the SES light. I started using 89 octane fuel with 10% ethanol recently and it works great. It's the price of 87 octane regular but gives better performance, gas mileage and cleans your engine to boot. I couldn't tell any difference between 91 and 89 octane though there was a significance difference between 89 and 87. I'd say don't bother changing the rear O2 sensors unless required by law (or you are selling the car). It's just a waste of $700 otherwise. But do change the front ones if they are faulty as they will reduce gas mileage significantly.

    Daniel, please let us know whether the MAF sensor fixed your noise issues. My ignition coils are probably okay for now as I don't detect any anomalies (yet) after 3 years (touch wood)...
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    i'm about 99% sure its the MAF sensor. if you have programmer plugged into your car when the pinging noise comes on when gasing up, you will notice it will show u an air flow problem and give u the code for the MAF too, i can't remember the code. I haven't fixed it yet cause my bicycle is cheaper on gas lol.
  • daniel25daniel25 Member Posts: 4
    Just replaced the MAF on my 2000 i30t. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I disconnected the battery during surgery (was off for 30 mins or so...don't know if that was long enough to reset the ECM), pulled out the airbox+MAF, unbolted old MAF, put on new MAF, put back togather, turned on car and the check engine light was off. Was able to gun the engine to redline in N (was not able to before). Took the car around the block....and was completely thrilled! Its like a different car with much more power/no pinging/smoother shifting. Best 100 bucks I've spent in a long time...

    First time I've done any repairs to a car myself. This motivates me to do some more stuff to the car...thanks for all the help!
  • g_leeg_lee Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 I30. At first, the oil and battery indicator lights started to flicker simultaneously when I was driving. This happened more and more over a week or two, and then it would occasionally start slowly. Now it won't start at all. It acts like it has a low battery, but I checked it and it was fully charged and functional. So I've ruled out the battery and alternator, and I don't think it's the starter since the indicator lights came on when I was driving, and the starter should not be connected to the circuit when the car is running. Any suggestions?
  • churickchurick Member Posts: 16
    I have a 00 I30 and I had the same problem last summer. I would be driving down the highway and the brake,battery,abs,airbag almost every light in the dash would come on. replaced the battery same thing happened. I took out the alternator and brought it to a rebuild shop to get it tested and found a corroded brush inside the alternator. replaced that and haven't had the problem since... I would get the alternator checked....
  • librarian02librarian02 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 I30 that my wife's parent's gave us last year. The car has run like a dream, much fancier than any car we'd buy for ourselves.

    Anyway, about a month ago, we were driving several hours to visit friends when we lost power, the engine became very sluggish, missing?, smoke came out the exhaust and we smelled gas.

    It was determined that we lost our Fuel Pressure Regulator. It was flooding the cylinders. We got that replaced and were on the road again. After a few hundred miles..... same thing. I had it towed to a different mechanic and he tested everything from the engine back and found it to be..... the fuels pressure regulator. It was still under warrantee through infiniti, so it was replaced for free and we were back on the road.

    So, a couple hundred miles later, same thing. This time I had stopped the car immediately upon first symptom, not driving it at all after the first sign. Towed to the same mechanic, he had no problems with it. It started for him and he drove it all over and couldn't find the problem.

    Now, after a few hundred miles, it happens again. The check engine light hasn't been on, until it happens.

    I called the mechanic and he is at a loss. He suggests taking it to Infiniti and having them go over it with a fine toothed comb. That sounds expensive, so I am looking around before I resort to that.

    help?
  • tguidrytguidry Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get a response on your hesitation and dying problem? I am experiencing something similar. On cold start ups (4+ hours parked) and once in gear (reverse, usually), the engine stutters and putters (and will die unless I give it major gas). It jerks a few times and then seems to work itself out once I'm going. Fuel injector problem? I smell fuel a bit at the time I experience the problem, too. I have a 2000 I-30. Is this something I can fix myself or have fixed by a non-dealer mechanic?
  • tguidrytguidry Member Posts: 2
    On cold start ups (4+ hours parked) and once in gear (reverse, usually), the engine stutters and putters (and will die unless I give it major gas). It jerks a few times and then seems to work itself out once I finally get going. No "service engine soon" lights are on and it's not running hot. Fuel injector problem? I smell fuel a bit at the time I experience the problem, too. Is this something I can fix myself or have fixed by a non-dealer mechanic?
  • churickchurick Member Posts: 16
    I was driving down the interstate and I heard a loud clunk noise. The following day I would get a intermittent clunk noise when I turn a corner or come to a stop.I thought it was a broken CV shaft or assembly. I brought in to a import shop. they looked at it for 4 hours, couldn't find anything wrong. But they said they did get the same noise when they drove it.
    Has anyone came across this problem??????????????
    Mechanic said to drive it till it gets worst, I don't like that philosophy to well. the sooner I can fix it the better I will feel.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A mechanic should be able to diagnose this problem by applying a fuel pressure guage to the fuel rail as these symptoms accur. Given the repeated replacement of the regulator, this is obviously not the disease but the symptom. So one hunch I have is the fuel pump itself; another idea might be a sensor that is sending far too rich a mixture signal to the computer. Has anyone been reading the error codes here?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Clunks can be tough. Sounds like a suspension issue, maybe nothing more serious than sway bar bushings...I think a good front end shop needs to look at this rather than a general mechanic. Sometimes alignment spacers can fall out and those are hard to spot. Anyway, there are all kinds of possibilities, but I don't think CV joints is one of them. Something is moving during a "weight shift" when you brake or corner. For safety's sake, check your brake caliper anchoring bolts and your wheels studs (unlikely but hey....)
  • 1infinitigirl1infinitigirl Member Posts: 2
    WHERE IS THE MAF, MAP AND KNOCK SENSOR ON THE 97 INFINITI.....I'M TRYING TO DO THIS WORK MYSELF SOMEONE PLEASE HELP.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    go to autozone.com and check on their repair guides section. They often have diagrams and locations on components.
  • 1infinitigirl1infinitigirl Member Posts: 2
    Unfortunately autozone does not have a manual for my car, but thank you for the advice.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Dang, you're right! They don't list that car....too bad.

    Anybody got any help for this? We're trying to find the location of the MAF and the knock sensor.
  • librarian02librarian02 Member Posts: 2
    The codes had been checked by 4 mechanics, although they were all getting the same codes, (Knock sensor, O2 sensors, etc) they weren't getting the same symptoms.

    It turns out that the drain on the AC pan was clogged. This was filling up and spilling water onto one of the computers, shorting it out intermittently, causing the loss of fuel regulation on such an irregular manner.

    This caused the car to run fine for hundreds of miles, then just start flooding the engine, when it was hot enough out for the AC and it was run long enough. If the car was left to sit long enough before a mechanic could look at it, the car started up fine and ran great because the water had evaporated and the computer dried out.

    So, getting a new computer to replace the shorted-out computer and then moving on to test the sensors that have been damaged from all the gas in the engine.

    I wish I had a car that ran on a wound up rubberband like in the cartoons...I could fix a rubberband.

    Thanks all.
  • pegandedpeganded Member Posts: 3
    I bought the same car a couple months ago. The day I got it I took it to a mechanic. It was the switch. Could move the seat forward & back. Could not tilt the back of the seat at all. It would go forward, but not back.
    Switch was a few hundred, so I paid them $70 bucks to manually move seat back into a position that is comfortable for me.
  • pegandedpeganded Member Posts: 3
    Has a solution for this problem been found??
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    At least on my 2000 I30, the knock sensor sits between the cylinder banks on top of the engine block; the MAF I'd expect to be located in the air intake (I'd look for the electrical connection to either).
  • churickchurick Member Posts: 16
    I was driving down interstate for 3.5 hours Out of the blue my car jerks really bad like it downshifted. than my RPM were way high for traveling speed (60mph @ 3500rpm) Temp gauge raises terrible had to pull over and let cool and than drive for a very short while. pull over and let cool.Now its in the shop waiting to be diagnosed. I was thinking sensor or igntion coil problem. One guy I talked said internal tranny problem....anyone have this problem...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like it dropped out of overdrive gear, definitely. Also makes sense the car might overheat if driven in too low a gear for too long, since the radiator cools the transmission, or attempts to.
  • infinitiiinfinitii Member Posts: 9
    My Infiniti I30 (65K Miles) has the Brake light on the dashboard and the alternator has been replaced.The Local mechanic checked the Brake Master Cylinder and said that everything is fine and also there are no codes when checked.Can someone suggest a solution for this?.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    short in handbrake switch?

    Low brake fluid level?

    Defective brake fluid level float switch?
  • infinitiiinfinitii Member Posts: 9
    Initially when the Alternator was replaced the Brake fluid level was low then I added it to MAX.

    also my Local mechanic checked the Handbrake Switch and the Brake fluid level float switch,he said they were fine.

    Any Suggestion?.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    air in the master cylinder?

    Defective brake pressure switch?
  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    Hello folks. It's me again. Had my 2001 I30 for almost 3 years now. Has a few quirks that I am living with but I haven't had much to do with repairs so far (touch wood). However, over the past few weeks, I hear a rather funny (embarassing as well) noise when I reverse - especially from cold start. It sounds like an angry goose and is quite loud that I can hear it with the windows closed. I also have the problem of acceleration dampening when the engine is cold. The car refuses to rev up beyond 2000 RPM for a few seconds (happens only occasionally) and then everything is normal after that. I suspect the MAF sensor for the latter and I will have it replaced. But does anyone know how to appease the peeved goose? Thanks.
  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    Got a quote back from one of my reasonable mechanics and he is quoting $434 + tax to change the MAF sensor. Yikes! I know Daniel on this board changed it himself. I am not very savvy when it comes to hands-on but is it as simple as disconnecting the battery, removing the airbox, unbolting the old sensor, bolting in the new one and it's done? Any finer details missing? I am not in dire straits yet and so don't want to shell out close to $500. Thanks in advance...
  • x5savx5sav Member Posts: 46
    This happenes to my 2001 I30t. My mechanic told me is the gas that I'be been pumping. I've bee bumping 76 and when my mechanic opened up my fuel injection module. I can see all those build up. He clean it up for me and suggest me to pump either Chevron or Shell from now on. 1500 miles since he cleaned it and no problem now. Good Luck.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Everything I've seen on these things says that it's an easy replacement, but you're supposed to reflash the computer after installing a new MAF, which usually means a trip to the shop.
  • rjtaterjtate Member Posts: 1
    Evidently my front left caliper locked up sometime ago. It just started making noise. The right one is good, but the left pads and rotor are bad. it doesn't release no matter what I do. I am thinking that it is a solenoid in the Actuator assembly, but not sure. Any info/advice would be appreciated. I can get a used actuator for around $250.

    Richard
  • sbanks1sbanks1 Member Posts: 1
    my infinity will not start. Is it possible that i have lost my signal from the computer chip in the key? I was told that since my car will not start, and the battery,alternator all seem to be ok that my problem might be the key. Any one know the replacement cost to reprogram my key?
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