Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

Mr_Shiftright · May 2009

Presuming that you START with a good car, I would expect any competent independent shop can fix the car at reasonable costs. The gas requirements on on the inside of your gas flap, and insurance rates should be normal as they would for any sedan--I don't see any red flags there.

Naturally, on any 13 year old car, if you smash up a fender or if obscure trim parts fall off, these will be harder to find and you'll pay more for them. But mechanical parts should be readily available and not cost any premium price.

ray84 · May 2009

I have the same problem. They told me the car has timing problem becasue they thought the timing chain was broken and asked me to replace the whole engine. Shoot! Are they serious? Need to talk with them.

eric1361 · May 2009

hi im having the same problem now, and now when i touch the battery cables up the starter makes a noise, how did u get the ignition switch out. i have the steering coloum apart and how do u get it off.

joegha1 · May 2009

Well, Its very easy, i did it in few minutes..

remove the cover under the steering wheel there are 6 screws that hold both plastic covers together. then just unplug the cable from both sides.. go and buy it first it's about $30.00 or check it online and you'll have a pretty good idea how it looks like. It's very simple and no tools needed but the philips screw driver..

lewbie43 · May 2009

Where are the cabin filters located? Service guy said they should be changed. I figure that it might be easier for me to do--if only I could locate them. Thanks.

bobfl · May 2009

"Stealer" tried that on me too. Turns out that cabin filters started in 2001 model. Should ask how he knows it needs changing.

rhok · May 2009

I bought 96 I30 in 2000 with 21K on it. It is the best car I have owned. Currently has 106,000 with no unexpected problems. Changed fluids, brakes, tires, battery, serp.belt, plugs, filters, typical maintenance stuff. I just changed struts at 100,000. Insurance with all my discounts runs 600/year for full coverage. That is 15% more than my other cars because body parts are a bit more. I use regular gas around town, premium on trips, especially if higher altitude. Car has impressive acceleration with premium and very good with regular. It is quiet and comfortable and I take good care of it and it returns the favor...its my wife's car.

radagast1 · August 2009

2001 Infinit I30. Events - Drove to gas station and got gas. Tried to restart car and got nothing but clicking sound. Tried jump starting and after 20 minutes of trying it started right off. Used my electronic hood latch to open trunk to put jumper cables back, and the engine died immediately. After another 20 minutes of trying, was able to jump start again. Again, it started right up. When I pressed brake pedal so I could put the car in gear, the engine died immediately again. It seems when I try to use an electronic feature like electronic trunk latch or brakes, the electric system kills the motor. The battery is only a few months old. I'm at my wits end because I can't afford a costly repair and my car is sitting at the same gas station and they want it moved. Is it possible or probably it's the ignition switch in the steering column or maybe an alternator? I'm hoping for a very economical quick solution. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated, and the sooner the better. Thanks in advance for your response.

Regards,
Mike

chpccm · August 2009

in case anybody else runs into this one....last Sunday, after about 30 minutes on the highway, cruisin along and the car revs up to 5000 rpm and is just coasting....it had done this two others times before, 30 days in between. Sunday however, had to pull over and cut the ingnition and restart, then it went back into gear. Everyone kept saying the transmission is going....took it to a great transmission guy that had a computer....said it was the speed sensor....unfortunately, he could not fix this. No charge however from him. Took it to a Nissan dealer, sure nough it was the speed sensor and got it repaired. $301 (part was $150 of course). Just wanted to post in case someone else encountered this problem.

chpccm · August 2009

had similar happen after having oil changed....took it back they messed with connections to make sure it wasn't something loose.....but playing with teh connections made it stay cranked.....something might be loose.

next oil change....went to library....no problems, then would not crank....it was the starter,

sophia087 · August 2009

Hi,
I have a load groan/grinding noise coming from the right front side of my car when I make a right turn, reversing to the right into a parking spot, and even taking curves on the highway. It's starting to scare me, I don't know what it could be..maybe my power steering or my tires, struts..Can anyone help me?

Thank you,
Sophia

refugeescamp · August 2009

if it only happens when u turn your steering wheel all the way to the right and then turn its your right link thats loose. its not dangereous at all but if you want the noise to go away u can change it. Just try taking wider turns in the mean time so you don't have to turn your steering wheel all the way to prevent the noise. i think its like 100$ for a new one at infiniti

jhayes9835 · August 2009

If I replace the maf sensor, does the ecm have to be reprogrammed? The check engine light was not on. If it has to be reprogrammed, can I do it myself or do I have to take it to the shop? If I can do it myself, can someone explain to me how to do it and where the ecm is located? Thanks for all the help. Jeff

refugeescamp · August 2009

No it doesn't have to be reprogrammed. They just use the machine to reset your error code but if the light goes off itself its fine.

refugeescamp · August 2009

Sounds like your altenator. Try checking your battery life to see if its almost full (the altenator will drain it if faulty). Charge it up all the way and then try to start the car and see if it starts. If it does start then its your altenator that's not working anymore and your car is just choking on electricity. The clicking sound is because your battery is completely drained, due to your altenator.

sophia087 · August 2009

That's how the sound started out but it has gotten worse now it's starting to do it at even the smallest turns I don't even have to turn the steering wheel too much and it's way louder. It's still like a groan/creak/grind.I'm worried it's my power steering or something else that's expensive.

albqmike · August 2009

2000 I30, 160000 miles. driving 75 mph down the interstate with cruise on, about 3100 rpms. crest a hill and engine backs off to maintain speed, then suddenly, rpms jump to 4200 rpms and maintains 70 mph. when breaks are tapped to disengage cruise, rpms fall to 1000 and car is coasting. no feel of any acceleration or compression untill back up to about 4000 rpms. 600 mile trip, gas mileage fell from 29 mpg to 21 mpg. I've seen a couple posts similar to this indicating that it may be the variable speed sensor. when looking on-line for the part, i only find ABS (anti-lock breaking system?) speed sensors (1 each for front left and right and rear left and right). Anyone know where the variable speed sensor is, what it costs, (abs speed sensors go for about 150.00 each) and how to replace it. Thanks for the input.

chpccm · August 2009

Same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago....Took it to a Nissan dealership....put it on computer and replaced the speed sensor for $301.25.....sensor was $150 I believe.

nvdesertbum · August 2009

I have a 1996 I30,I noticed today coolant leaking from front side of engine.I figure it's the waterpump leaking.Does anyone know how to go about changing the pump or where to get a manual to change it.I have mechanical back round and not afraid to tackle it.To look at a picture of the pump shows the timing chain drives it.

tbo452 · August 2009

I've seen lots of posts about starting problems, and I would like to know if there is a way to bypass/check/test the Ignition Switch before getting a new one.
Thanks,
Tony.

ted45 · September 2009

I had to have the fuel pump replaced a while back, since then the car has to cranked several times, when cold and the fuel level is low, and when the fuel light comes on it starts bucking like a bronco. I took the car back to the repair shop and they replaced the fuel regulator but this has not solved the problem, the car still does the same things described above.

bobfl · September 2009

Hi, Just got a 0171 code (Lean fuel mixture in bank 1) I'm guessing that its the MAF sensor. Anyone else had this code, comments?

2000 I30 85,000 miles

Bob

rubikees · September 2009

How do you get the back door panel off? I have disconnected the bottom pins and the side pins. I have removed the latch plastic piece but it is not coming off. I have missed something but i cannot see it.

bobfl · September 2009

FYI pulled the MAF sensor and cleaned it with CRC MAF sensor cleaner (really!) put it back and its running like brand new. Bet I saved $300 to $400 over "Stealer" cost.
Got the cleaner it Pep Boys $7.99 and some Torx bits and its now all set!

Bob

jhayes9835 · September 2009

I have an 1996 Infiniti I30 and yesterday it ran rough and would not start. I pulled the maf off and there was a lot of oil in the manifold. I checked the oil dipstick and the oil does not look milky but the oil level seems to be more than normal. My son said he did not notice any warning lights. He did say that it sounded louder than normal. What could be the problem? Blown head gasket? Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks.

fuego0615 · September 2009

Usually oil in the intake, especially if it is all the way by the MAF is from blow by. This generally happens when the piston rings are wearing and unburned fuel and oil are sucked into the crankcase or if your intake valves are worn it may get sucked back into the intake. Check your PCV valve to make sure it isn't blocked and what does your air filter look like?

jhayes9835 · September 2009

The air filter looks fine. If it was rings or valves, wouldn't there be blue smoke leading up to that? This happened all of a sudden. Where is the pcv valve located? If that is defective, after I replace it, what do I do about the oil in the manifold? Thank you

Mr_Shiftright · September 2009

If you do a cylinder leakdown test, that'll answer the question as to whether you have severe internal engine wear or not. Your PCV valve could not handle the amount of oil thrown up by blow-by, even if it were working properly. A completely clogged PCV valve would cause a lot of crankcase pressure but then a clogged PCV would not allow the blow by into the intake--it would have to push out through various gaskets, causing lots of visible oil leaks.

Replacing the PCV is a cheap and a good guess, but it reallyl doesn't answer the bigger question. You may be treating a symptom and not a cause.

Visiting Host

debful · September 2009

Hi,
Im new to this forum, so Im sorry if I posted this in the wrong place, or if this has been discussed already.
I just had my 1996 Infinity, I-30 in the shop to have the right side ball bearings replace and the mass air flow sensor replaced.
I payed $500 for the repairs, drove maybe 20 minutes, had to stop at a 3way stop, when it was my turn to go, I put my foot on the gas pedal, heard a thump, it felt like something fell from the bottom of my car..and it wouldn't move, not drive, not reverse, nothing. I put on my hazards, got out of the car looked underneath because I was sure something had fallen. There was nothing there, and no leakage. I called a tow truck and had the car towed back to repair shop. They were closed so I left a note and the key in their drop box. But as the car was being dropped from the tow truck bed there was a puddle of transmission fluid on the bed of the truck.
My question, and sorry this was such a long way of asking, is there any way the transmission could have been messed up while the repair guy was fixing the ball bearings. I want to be a little educated when I call the repair guys tomorrow and talk to them
Any help at all in this would be so greatly appreciated!
Debby

Mr_Shiftright · September 2009

Oh-oh....I wonder if he forgot to tighten up the drive axle-to-hub and to-transaxle connections. Sure sounds like it. Major screw up if that's what happened.

brig7 · September 2009

Hi well my 2000 i30t infiniti got the service engine soon light on, so we went to AAMCO they switch 4 02 sensors , 2 front and 2 back ( for 1k which i think is ALOT)
well the next day the light went off again it it shows the code P0171 and after fueling ar all of the random it goes off and then after like a few miles it goes on.
I really dont want to pay another 1k dollars to any mechanic. I dont know what to do next need help asap

refugeescamp · September 2009

go back to aamco and yell at them. p0171 means your MAF sensor is having problems not the o2's. Its about 600$ canadian and takes about 20 mins max to install, its right at the top on the right hand side right after your air filter ( first the intake, then air filter, then maf sensor). Very easy to replace. You probably hear a little pinging sound from the engine in 2nd gear when driving. You can only buy this part from infiniti.

brig7 · September 2009

Well i heard the noise rarely so i thought it might be because of a bad fuel or something. I also read that it may can be clean instead of replaced so i can save so extra cash? if so please explain how.

bobfl · September 2009

I just had the same problem and fixed it for about $20.

1) Go to Maxima.org to find out how to pull the MAF sensor. It requires a TORX bit on your wrench. Comes out hard due to rubber O ring but it will come out.

2) Get a can of CRC MAF cleaner and spray away. My car now runs like new again after having code 171 errors. Let it dry, reinstall and enjoy.

Bob

refugeescamp · September 2009

Yeah bob is 100% right. you can clean it like that. Lots of people however have the problem reaccur after a while so they end up replacing it but since your light only comes on every now and then its sooooo much more worth it for you to clean it than to spend so much money for a new one.

anovice · September 2009

Please bear with me as this is my first post and I know nothing about cars!

I recently acquired a 2000 I30 from a family member who was the original owner. It has 63,000 miles and appears to be in relatively good condition. I have all the records and the car has had service at all recommended mileage intervals and oil changes every 3,000 miles.

Before acquiring the car the Infiniti dealership near my family member performed an inspection and said there is a small leak in the real main seal, one axle seal and a crank seal. Now that I have the car back home and have used it for a few weeks, I see the small leak in the real main seal. I brought the car into the local mechanic I use and without mentioning the Infiniti dealerships findings, I had him check it out. He said the real main seal had a slight leak as well as one axle seal. He did not see a leak at the crank seal. So forgetting about the crank seal which can be done later and separately if need be, it was good to get confirmation. From underneath he also looked further up the engine and suspects a valve cover seal may be leaking too.

The path forward that he recommended was to drop the transmission to replace the real main seal and at the same time replace both axle seals and stop there. This would cost me $493.50 for labor, plus the three seals. After a few weeks if we see any appreciable problem with the crank seal and/or the valve cover seal, we can replace them at that time as it will not cost more or less than if they were replaced while the transmission was down. he did not give me a price for the crank seal, but replacement of the valve cover seal is $321.00 for labor, plus the seal.

I have a few questions and a concern. First, do you agree with the mechanics approach? Second, are his prices fair at $814.50 (labor for rear main seal and both axle seals and labor for valve cover seal if needed)?

My concern is dropping the transmission sounds like a big job and I am wondering if the mechanic could cause more harm than good. Considering the leaks are minor and I can live with a piece of cardboard under the car in the garage, should I hold the work off or will the leaks get progressively worse? On one hand I say the car is 10 years old, but on the other, it only has 63,000 miles, cars require maintenance and based on the fact that I only put on 10,000 miles per year, I can see having this car for quite a while.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

Anovice

mwolven · September 2009

I had the ABS and brake lights go on while driving home. Had the alternator and battery checked and both were bad. I replaced them both and the car was fine for a little while. Then the battery and brake lights came on. Interestingly when we checked the battery voltage the following happened: positive to negative terminals - 14V, positive terminal to car metal - 14V, (and here's the interesting part) negative battery terminal to car metal - 10V (obviously since both should be negative it should be 0V). I played around with the Alternator cable (where it attaches to the Alternator) and it was apparently not on all the way. Got it fixed and it was o.k. for around a hundred miles or so. The battery and brake lights are back on now. I removed the Alternator cable again and restarted the car using just the battery and the lights went off. I believe it is the Alternator cable - I will put a new one in tomorrow and let you know.

2000i30 · October 2009

my 2000 i30 stalls shortly after starting but only in park, not any other gear... i have no idea and i dont want to get ripped off by a mechanic so i was hoping someone would maybe have an idea... thanks

lori925 · October 2009

Hi Atwdrew, I have a 1996 I30 as well, with about the same mileage, and unfortunately, the exact same symptoms you are describing above (lurching, stalling, etc). I have replaced O2 and Knock sensors, as per the codes, but I am now thinking it's the IACV. The check engine light is not on since mechanic cleared the codes for the other sensors. Can you tell me if the stalling, etc stopped once you replaced the IAC? Was your ECU affected by bad IAC? Did you also have to replace the MAF? I have been dealing with this stalling issue for over 6 months and no mechanic around this tiny town can figure it out, so it's all up to me. The car runs beautiful some days, but some days it's rough and stalls, just like you described (and wants to stall on sharp turns). Additionally, my car is eating gas like crazy, so it's running too rich and too lean at times (I get black smoke out of the exhaust occassionally when she's running rough). Any suggestions from anyone? Please help and thanks!

infinitisvc · October 2009

You might want to try looking on IATN. It is a network of automotive technicians that post answers to all kinds of problems on all kinds of cars. There is a subscription that has to be paid, but it is well worth it.

Also, replacing parts based solely on the Diagnostic Trouble Code is a bad idea. There is often several things that can cause a part to through a code, that may have nothing to do with the failure of that part. O2 sensors codes are a prime example. There are several things that can cause the O2 sensors to trigger a code, when the sensors are working as designed. Throwing parts at codes is often much more costly than having the car properly diagnosed and repaired.

If your area does not have a qualified independent shop that can repair your car, you may want to try a Nissan dealer if there is one. Many times Nissan dealers will work on Infiniti's.

Good luck with it. I know how frustrating issues like this can be.

pnotar · October 2009

Have this vehicle with 148K miles. Saturday, idling at a traffic light and when it turns green, hit the gas pedal, but go nowhere. When shifting the car into various gears, hear a sound best described as "whirring/crunching". Until this occurred, I have had no issues with the transmission and done regular maintenance.

Towed car to my mechanic, who, after inspection today, tells me the transmission is shot. Guy who works for him used to work for Infiniti and said he has seen this happen with this model...just craps out.

In '07, I had new front struts/boots installed; in '08, I had front axles replaced. Looking for opinion as to whether to cut my losses or go ahead with refurb tranmission replacement (cost estimate $1700-$2000)?

To further complicate matters, I am out of work, so not really in a position to replace the vehicle, at least with something at a similar level.

On the pro side, my mechanic (who I do trust) tells me the car is in great shape otherwise and it is worth the investment. Cost wise, it is still likely cheaper to sink the above dollars in vs. a full replacement PLUS getting no value back for the vehicle.

On the con side, just seems like I am investing more and more into a car with diminishing returns. Blue Book/online searches for this car puts the value at about $3500.

Just looking for thoughts from those more experienced to factor into my decision making process. Thanks in advance!

Mr_Shiftright · October 2009

I don't see where buying another used vehicle with high miles puts you in any better position, and being out of work, buying a new car seems a tad reckless (even though we all need transport!) so, based on your mechanic's evaluation of the car, I'd say go for it.

The only other solution I could see, which isn't a great one, is to buy a very clean, low mileage used car as a replacement--but in that case, this renders your $3500 car with a broken transmission not much more than a $350 car.

At least once you are employed again, you have a good running car to sell as a down payment for your next vehicle.

pnotar · October 2009

Thanks for the quick response. The sad part of this whole ordeal is that, once I obtain employment, I was planning to look for something "new" (I am a quality used car man...never owned brand new). Now, if I take this plunge, I am feeling like I am committing to the vehicle for another couple of years. Positive is at least I am not making car payments as I try to rebuild my finances.

Guessing your $350 evaluation is based upon the tax value you would get on donating the car to charity? Wasn't sure what that value was, but, as we have both cited, without the fix, I have the proverbial white elephant.

Likely going to fix, as it appears to be the lowest cost/best return on investment option, but I don't feel good about it at all. Thanks again!

Mr_Shiftright · October 2009

yeah, I was thinking charity donation. I just think buying a "new" car is not in the cards for you at this moment, and since this moment is the only moment you can do anything about---well then. Sure, in a few months the situation may indeed turn completely around---probably will--but until then, you need wheels--bottom line there.

lori925 · October 2009

Thanks so much for the information. You are right about throwing parts at a problem due to the codes. I have wasted a good bit of money on two O2 sensors and a knock sensor that were probably working just fine. I live on a tiny island and the mechanics overcharge hours and I don't trust the ones I have come across. However, we do have a Nissan dealership over the bridge I could have do the work. The tech there insists it is the IAC but I am now worried that I blew out the ECU since it's been driven so long without proper diagnosis. I will try this one last ditch effort, and if the car keeps stalling, may have to consider a new one:(

Thanks again...I will check out the IATN.

hossjr · October 2009

My 2001 I30 has had 4 remanufactured alternators supplied by Nissan/Infiniti installed since May and a new starter. After leaving the car sit for 3-4 days it won't start w/o a jump. What else could possibly be wrong here?

infinitisvc · October 2009

You could have a parasitic draw, something that is continuing to draw current when the car is off and all the control modules have gone to sleep. This is caused by a faulty component that is shorted out, or possibly a wiring issue where there is a short.

I would say if you are able to jump the vehicle, and drive it, then find after it sits for several hours you have to jump start it a parasitic draw is very likely. That all assumes the battery is not faulty. You did not mention anything about the battery, but I assume it is passing its tests.

Good luck.

infinitisvc · October 2009

$814 for all that work sounds low. Check this guy out thoroughly before you commit to having the work done. I would recommend you check with the dealer to see what their price is as well. The independent shop is often cheaper than the dealer by not always. It pays to be diligent in your research.

I would recommend you fix all the leaks as soon as possible. When oil leaks from the engine it often comes in contact with other components, many of which are made of rubber. Hoses, insulation on wiring, bushings, etc. can all be damaged by allowing oil to continually drip on them. There will be collateral damage and additional costs if you do not fix the leaks.

I once had a client with a VW that refused a $450 valve cover gasket replacement. One year later his car was on a flatbed wrecker with a major coolant leak. The oil had been dripping onto a coolant hose, deteriorating the hose and causing it to blow. This engine was turbo charged and the hose was under the turbo. The original $450 repair that he refused, because he did not see a need to spend the money, became a $1700 repair.

Fix the leaks and be diligent about maintaining the vehicle and it will be cheaper for you in the long run.

sluhdude · November 2009

I just replaced the front rotors and pads on my 2001 I30, but the pedal seems a little soft. Everything seems to be working great, just to much pedal travel before stopping starts. Any suggestions?

xsaboramelaox · November 2009

the EXACT SAME THING IS HAPPENING TO ME and I don't know how to fix it!!! My brake lights stop working periodically, and when they're not working, I am unable to shift my car out of park. Very frustrating!!! My car almost didn't pass state inspection because of it! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME and let me know what this could be, or if you have found a solution to this problem. It is driving me insane!!!!!!!!! E-mail me xsaboramelaox@aol.com thanks so much!!!!!

Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

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