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Naturally, on any 13 year old car, if you smash up a fender or if obscure trim parts fall off, these will be harder to find and you'll pay more for them. But mechanical parts should be readily available and not cost any premium price.
remove the cover under the steering wheel there are 6 screws that hold both plastic covers together. then just unplug the cable from both sides.. go and buy it first it's about $30.00 or check it online and you'll have a pretty good idea how it looks like. It's very simple and no tools needed but the philips screw driver..
Regards,
Mike
next oil change....went to library....no problems, then would not crank....it was the starter,
I have a load groan/grinding noise coming from the right front side of my car when I make a right turn, reversing to the right into a parking spot, and even taking curves on the highway. It's starting to scare me, I don't know what it could be..maybe my power steering or my tires, struts..Can anyone help me?
Thank you,
Sophia
Thanks,
Tony.
2000 I30 85,000 miles
Bob
Got the cleaner it Pep Boys $7.99 and some Torx bits and its now all set!
Bob
Replacing the PCV is a cheap and a good guess, but it reallyl doesn't answer the bigger question. You may be treating a symptom and not a cause.
Visiting Host
Im new to this forum, so Im sorry if I posted this in the wrong place, or if this has been discussed already.
I just had my 1996 Infinity, I-30 in the shop to have the right side ball bearings replace and the mass air flow sensor replaced.
I payed $500 for the repairs, drove maybe 20 minutes, had to stop at a 3way stop, when it was my turn to go, I put my foot on the gas pedal, heard a thump, it felt like something fell from the bottom of my car..and it wouldn't move, not drive, not reverse, nothing. I put on my hazards, got out of the car looked underneath because I was sure something had fallen. There was nothing there, and no leakage. I called a tow truck and had the car towed back to repair shop. They were closed so I left a note and the key in their drop box. But as the car was being dropped from the tow truck bed there was a puddle of transmission fluid on the bed of the truck.
My question, and sorry this was such a long way of asking, is there any way the transmission could have been messed up while the repair guy was fixing the ball bearings. I want to be a little educated when I call the repair guys tomorrow and talk to them
Any help at all in this would be so greatly appreciated!
Debby
well the next day the light went off again it it shows the code P0171 and after fueling ar all of the random it goes off and then after like a few miles it goes on.
I really dont want to pay another 1k dollars to any mechanic. I dont know what to do next need help asap
1) Go to Maxima.org to find out how to pull the MAF sensor. It requires a TORX bit on your wrench. Comes out hard due to rubber O ring but it will come out.
2) Get a can of CRC MAF cleaner and spray away. My car now runs like new again after having code 171 errors. Let it dry, reinstall and enjoy.
Bob
I recently acquired a 2000 I30 from a family member who was the original owner. It has 63,000 miles and appears to be in relatively good condition. I have all the records and the car has had service at all recommended mileage intervals and oil changes every 3,000 miles.
Before acquiring the car the Infiniti dealership near my family member performed an inspection and said there is a small leak in the real main seal, one axle seal and a crank seal. Now that I have the car back home and have used it for a few weeks, I see the small leak in the real main seal. I brought the car into the local mechanic I use and without mentioning the Infiniti dealerships findings, I had him check it out. He said the real main seal had a slight leak as well as one axle seal. He did not see a leak at the crank seal. So forgetting about the crank seal which can be done later and separately if need be, it was good to get confirmation. From underneath he also looked further up the engine and suspects a valve cover seal may be leaking too.
The path forward that he recommended was to drop the transmission to replace the real main seal and at the same time replace both axle seals and stop there. This would cost me $493.50 for labor, plus the three seals. After a few weeks if we see any appreciable problem with the crank seal and/or the valve cover seal, we can replace them at that time as it will not cost more or less than if they were replaced while the transmission was down. he did not give me a price for the crank seal, but replacement of the valve cover seal is $321.00 for labor, plus the seal.
I have a few questions and a concern. First, do you agree with the mechanics approach? Second, are his prices fair at $814.50 (labor for rear main seal and both axle seals and labor for valve cover seal if needed)?
My concern is dropping the transmission sounds like a big job and I am wondering if the mechanic could cause more harm than good. Considering the leaks are minor and I can live with a piece of cardboard under the car in the garage, should I hold the work off or will the leaks get progressively worse? On one hand I say the car is 10 years old, but on the other, it only has 63,000 miles, cars require maintenance and based on the fact that I only put on 10,000 miles per year, I can see having this car for quite a while.
Your thoughts are appreciated.
Anovice
Also, replacing parts based solely on the Diagnostic Trouble Code is a bad idea. There is often several things that can cause a part to through a code, that may have nothing to do with the failure of that part. O2 sensors codes are a prime example. There are several things that can cause the O2 sensors to trigger a code, when the sensors are working as designed. Throwing parts at codes is often much more costly than having the car properly diagnosed and repaired.
If your area does not have a qualified independent shop that can repair your car, you may want to try a Nissan dealer if there is one. Many times Nissan dealers will work on Infiniti's.
Good luck with it. I know how frustrating issues like this can be.
Towed car to my mechanic, who, after inspection today, tells me the transmission is shot. Guy who works for him used to work for Infiniti and said he has seen this happen with this model...just craps out.
In '07, I had new front struts/boots installed; in '08, I had front axles replaced. Looking for opinion as to whether to cut my losses or go ahead with refurb tranmission replacement (cost estimate $1700-$2000)?
To further complicate matters, I am out of work, so not really in a position to replace the vehicle, at least with something at a similar level.
On the pro side, my mechanic (who I do trust) tells me the car is in great shape otherwise and it is worth the investment. Cost wise, it is still likely cheaper to sink the above dollars in vs. a full replacement PLUS getting no value back for the vehicle.
On the con side, just seems like I am investing more and more into a car with diminishing returns. Blue Book/online searches for this car puts the value at about $3500.
Just looking for thoughts from those more experienced to factor into my decision making process. Thanks in advance!
The only other solution I could see, which isn't a great one, is to buy a very clean, low mileage used car as a replacement--but in that case, this renders your $3500 car with a broken transmission not much more than a $350 car.
At least once you are employed again, you have a good running car to sell as a down payment for your next vehicle.
Guessing your $350 evaluation is based upon the tax value you would get on donating the car to charity? Wasn't sure what that value was, but, as we have both cited, without the fix, I have the proverbial white elephant.
Likely going to fix, as it appears to be the lowest cost/best return on investment option, but I don't feel good about it at all. Thanks again!
Thanks again...I will check out the IATN.
I would say if you are able to jump the vehicle, and drive it, then find after it sits for several hours you have to jump start it a parasitic draw is very likely. That all assumes the battery is not faulty. You did not mention anything about the battery, but I assume it is passing its tests.
Good luck.
I would recommend you fix all the leaks as soon as possible. When oil leaks from the engine it often comes in contact with other components, many of which are made of rubber. Hoses, insulation on wiring, bushings, etc. can all be damaged by allowing oil to continually drip on them. There will be collateral damage and additional costs if you do not fix the leaks.
I once had a client with a VW that refused a $450 valve cover gasket replacement. One year later his car was on a flatbed wrecker with a major coolant leak. The oil had been dripping onto a coolant hose, deteriorating the hose and causing it to blow. This engine was turbo charged and the hose was under the turbo. The original $450 repair that he refused, because he did not see a need to spend the money, became a $1700 repair.
Fix the leaks and be diligent about maintaining the vehicle and it will be cheaper for you in the long run.