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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • louisl2louisl2 Member Posts: 6
    both motors are not going to go out at the same time, but what is common to both motors? It might be a fuse that has blown.
  • louisl2louisl2 Member Posts: 6
    we have a 98 I30 with 226K miles on it and the engine is still very strong. You should be able to get 300K on these if taken care of properly, I change the oil every 4-5K miles and use synthetic oil.
  • 56willie56willie Member Posts: 1
    Just test drove vehicle and saw mainten records for very nice car and am wondering if there is much life left in this vehicle? what I should be concerned about?
    Seller asking close to $3000
    Maint records indicate transmission and clutch replaced approx 50,000 mi. ago, has small oil leak at valve cover and AC seems weak. Otherwise good condition. Any comments/advice out there?
    Thanks.
  • nystateofmindnystateofmind Member Posts: 1
    i brought the car in a marshalls auction just yesterday so after purchasing the car the tow truck guy droped da car ova 2 da driveway i got ma car parkd up inn.. ma problem is he 1st park it on da front so wen i went 2 go move da car into the drivei way it was a problem turnin da steering wheel.. any suggestions on wat it could b .. can it b it needs power steering fuild .? a new axel .. or anything eles ?
  • pirate24pirate24 Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like you "knock sensor" is defective. I brought a knock sensor from ebay for $65 dollars and replaced it myself. This sensor is located below the intake manifold and is hard to get to. Have Autozone check your CEL codes and you will probably see and defective code for the knock sensor.
  • no_cash_diysno_cash_diys Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2011
    Ran the car very low on fuel a couple of weeks ago. It started to randomly killing for no apparent reason. The problem has progressively gotten worse since then it is more frequent and sometimes hard to get started again. Read a couple of entries about knock sensor and mass air flow sensors, have pulled a P0325 out of the ECM before this problem started. Does anyone have any experiences with the fuel pump control module or dropping resistor causing these issues?
  • waltrxwaltrx Member Posts: 1
    I'm having that problem and when it doesn't turn I push the key in and jiggle it around a bit and then it turns on. Sometimes I have to do it a couple of times. Did you buy the ignition switch and install it yourself? That's what I need to do. At the same time one of my belts went berserk after it got really cold here. Even my co-workers don't whine like that. I sprayed on belt conditioner but it doesn't quite work. From looking around online, it might need tightening, a pulley might be glazed, the belt might have metal bits embedded in it ..... The joys of owning an I30 are unrivaled. Those sensors are killer. My little darling has 143K and seems to be really great except that it keeps breaking down. Infinity wants me to come in for another 600$ checkup. I need to keep her for at least another of couple of months. And if I can figure out how to fix as she breaks down, I'll keep her as long as I can. :)
  • dave37bdave37b Member Posts: 2
    I just had my front brakes and rotors changed and now the Shifter makes a clicking sound when the engine is running and in park whenever I press the brake pedal. If this just a noisy selinoid or is something messed up in the front brakes? The interlock works fine but I never heard the sound of a relay before in the shifter. thanks
  • no_cash_diysno_cash_diys Member Posts: 3
    There are no solenoids in the brake system. The shifter linkage is no where near the brake system, you may have a separate issue.
  • starwindstarwind Member Posts: 9
    The speedometer on my new-to-me 2000 I30t reads ~5 mph fast at 60mph (compared to my Garmin GPS, and the surrounding traffic). Is this normal for these cars? My motorcycles always read fast by about 5-10%, but this is the first time I've seen this much error in a car.

    Anyone have a similar experience?
  • cwking11cwking11 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 I30 and a Gamin GPS. The times that I have checked them the two have matched. I have not had them disagree at any speed so I would think you need to have yours checked or go by yur GPS speed.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be that someone changed tire sizes. What's on there now?
  • no_cash_diysno_cash_diys Member Posts: 3
    GPS is way more accurate than the speedometer on any vehicle. It also depends on if any of the wheel sizes were changed from stock.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Stock tire size on the t version was 225/50R17. If you've got something else, that would explain it right there.
  • jamesgcjamesgc Member Posts: 1
    My wife's '98 I30 has a hole in the condenser due to a stone hitting. Our regular mechanic says that he would replace the dryer at the same time as the condenser. I'm going to replace the condenser myself with a friend because we can't afford the mechanic costs right now.

    My question is, do i have to replace the dryer component at the same time as the condenser?

    I did find a dryer on ebay (screenshot here):

    image

    I can also get the condenser a lot cheaper online than from the dealer, but i've never bought car parts online before so was a little unsure where to go.

    I found this website which seems to offer some varied options, with varying costs:

    Auto Body Parts Go

    My wife and I would really appreciate some advice on this matter, I have a friend who can help me fit the parts, and we can have the A/C topped up and tested for pretty cheap with a local mechanic, but I'd really like to try and save some money by fitting the new parts myself, and buying them online.

    Thank you for taking the time to read my rather long post!

    :)
  • jeve621jeve621 Member Posts: 2
    With the drastic weather changes lately your tire pressure could be just slightly off. If you have not recently serviced your vehicle I would seriously suggest calling a local Infiniti service department, I could be wrong but I believe there was a recall on speedometers, I'm not to sure which model or year it was for, but they will know, ask to speak to their warranty administrator
  • mawjoemawjoe Member Posts: 2
    I have a problem with doing my rear brakes. The rotors in the rear only come off with taking off the wheel hub nut. I have a 2001 infiniti i30t and im wondering if u need to get the hub pressed off the rotor. i have never seen this before once you remove the nut the rotor pops off but with the hub. Im having a horrible time with the rear brakes can anyone help me or lead me in the right direction.
  • mawjoemawjoe Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2001 infiniti i30t and am having a cel come on. Im recieving 2 codes p0130 which is bank1 sensor 1 02 fault. also recieving p1148 which i have researched to be air / fuel sensor bank 1 sensor. im wondering if its the same issue with one of the o2s/ af sensor? also which one would be bank 1 sensor1? this vehicle has 4 02s. one on the exhaust manifold before and after cat. and lower cat before and after. i did some research and supposively bank1 is under the car the 2nd cat. if thats true ok just would like to know if its before or after cat sensor 1. any help would be greatly appreciated?
  • trickplay461trickplay461 Member Posts: 7
    Hi,

    I did this repair about a month ago. I used a Haynes Auto manual when I did it to make sure I got it right. I had the same problem. The rotor seems stuck on where as you are expecting it to just pop off after the wheel comes off. There is actually a small hole on the rotor (I'm typing this from my job so I'm not looking at the manual) in which you have to screw a bolt into. Screwing the bolt (or screw?) into the rotor actually pushes the two surfaces apart and the rotor pops off. I'm sorry I cant remember where or what your supposed to screw in there but its mentioned plain as day in the manual and worked great. I would go buy the manual cause its the best money I spent in regards to maintenance for my vehicle. I have the 2000 I30 but they are practically identical in alot of aspects. Hope it helps and GL.
  • robert2000robert2000 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought this 2000 i30 with 36,000 miles. Check engine light came on with P0160 & P0140 codes. Both codes indicate Bank 2, Sensor 2. Infinity dealer found a Service bulletin indicating to replace both banks with new parts. they indicated that these were a replacement design from the original part. Plus a down load of new software on the ECM? Anyway sounds like this was a mfg. defect and was covered by Infinity. Any idea if they would cover this on a 11 year old vehicle, since the miles are so low?
    Also looks like the seat motors are a problem with the 2000. Has anyone repaired this problem themselves? If so, can the average "shadetree mechanic" do this?
  • witnessxwitnessx Member Posts: 11
    I do not think so. They say X years or X number of miles for a reason. Plus, it was not a recall.
  • andyo64andyo64 Member Posts: 1
    Were you ever able to fix this issue? I have the same problem. Sorry its not an answer.
  • jmwilson82jmwilson82 Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find out what was wrong with your transmission? What did you do to fix it? I'm having the same problem, whenever I drive more than 30-40 miles, my tranny kicks out of gear and I have to let it rest for a quite some time before I can drive again.
  • jmwilson82jmwilson82 Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 I30 is having transmission problems: Whenever I drive more than 30-40 miles, the tranny kicks out of gear and will sometimes get back into a low gear, but usually not. I have to turn off the car and let it "rest" for 30+ minutes before I can drive it again for another 30 or miles. Has anybody else experience anything similar?
  • dontknowaskdontknowask Member Posts: 3
    While driving the above indicator lights came on for my I35 Infinity. They stayed on for some time then shut off, they came back minutes later. Eventually the car shut off, but would not crank back up. Removed battery and replaced it with new one. Car started back up but now the indicator lights are still lit. Can anyone please help with what the problem may be? Do I just need to reset the lights? IF so how? Or am I looking at a bad alternator?
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    its your alternator. your car is running on battery only right now. Do not use your car till u get the alternator fixed or it will keep damaging your new battery. Turn off your lights, inside dash lights, radio, and the light that opens on the ceiling when u open your door, and your TCS (traction control). Charge your battery fully, i think u might get around 5-15 minutes of driving when fully charged. So charge it and get it to a garage quickly. the mechanic can check if your alternator is dead with a tester. (boosting your battery won't work cause it doesn't need a boost, it needs to be fully charged. Since your alternator is dead, it is not charging your battery after u boost it).
  • mosdqmosdq Member Posts: 2
    engine does not start or fire at all when the engine is cold any body can help please
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    If your service engine light is not on AND if you notice as it gets colder it starts up slower or like its choking (and when its cold enough it won't even crank) its probably the starter. If your service engine light is on, get it checked to see what it is and if its related to something that won't help your car start (iginition coils or MAF sensor).
  • mosdqmosdq Member Posts: 2
    my freind my97 infiniti i30 ses is on code maf bank 1 sensor1 and some kind of vacume leak i put anew maf and no improvment no defrence test still showed i need maf whats can i do next it starts when engine is warm and runs good.when engine is cold its very hard to start any idia thanks
  • east2westeast2west Member Posts: 4
    1996 i30t in hilly coastal So Cal. OK, I guess I've read all related posts. Can anyone tell me if my problems are caused by the MAF, knock sensor, Ignition Coils, PVC valve, or the IAC Valve ?
    When cold she starts if I push on the gas a little, keeps stalling until she's completely warmed up (about 5 minutes). When warmed up she starts beautifully. The problems are getting worse. :( Thanks for your help !
  • witnessxwitnessx Member Posts: 11
    Sounds like its the MAF sensor.
  • east2westeast2west Member Posts: 4
    Thank you. I'll try that and let you know...
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    There exists a TSB on the seat-slide issue, though it's complicated; it involves the slide motor itself, the mounting thereof, and a pair of worm gears. Should be familiar to the shop, though.
  • east2westeast2west Member Posts: 4
    Thank you, It was the the MAF sensor ! It was just dirty. Checked that the filaments were not broken, cleaned it with the "CRC MAF cleaner". It ran rough for about the first 10 minutes and has been running beautifully for the past 2 weeks.
  • lardogylardogy Member Posts: 1
    Just a thought, my 2000 i30 started this noise over small bumps. Turns out it's the sway bar bushings that cost 25 bucks and about 1/2 hr to install(by mechanic)
  • kelbelleinkelbellein Member Posts: 2
    I just dealt with the same issue... Brake and battery light came on. Soon after, my engine died in the parking lot. The idler pulley had fallen off, thus the belt wasn't turning and charging my battery. I had to replace the pulley and belt for $200.
  • kelbelleinkelbellein Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2011
    I have a 2001 and the switch that moves my seat forward and back just died. Kind of a problem when it's stuck in the "away" postion to let me out of my car. My legs don't reach the pedal now and I have to use my tippy toes!

    A technical Service Bulletin was issued for this:
    Vehicle: 2001 Infiniti I30
    Nature of Defect: SEATS:FRONT ASSEMBLY:POWER ADJUST
    Bulletin Number: ITB00067B
    Bulletin Date: Oct 2003

    Summary: DRIVER'S SEAT WILL NOT MOVE FORWARD OR BACKWARD. (NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10003898 )
  • nycmavericknycmaverick Member Posts: 1
    one thing in can say - its your starter.

    ive had a similiar problem, to the point where the clicks to turn my car went from 1 to freakin 5 clicks to none. at the point of no clicking, my starter short circuited along with my battery going to the point of no recharge. horrible experience, but my opinion, get it looked at before clicking it over too many times.
  • gielow43gielow43 Member Posts: 2
    My 1999 I30 has begun to shut off while im driving slowly (under 15mph). The lights on the dash come on, the power steering dies and the gas is unresponsive. I then pull over, turn off the car, and when i turn the key it starts right back up. this has happened to me on the freeway during traffic and Im nervous about getting rear ended by someone since my car wont move for a minute. please offer advice or guidance. thanks
  • witnessxwitnessx Member Posts: 11
    It sounds like your alternator is going. Make sure to get a new one, rebuilt alternators tend to crap out after X number of miles.
  • stevenohstevenoh Member Posts: 3
    It could be your alternator but your battery, if still good, should pick up the slack if alternator is not putting out the correct power at lower speeds.

    Could also be you Mass Airflow sensor incorrectly measuring the airflow and fuel mix causing the car to stall. The Mass Airflow Sensor can be removed and cleaned with Mass Airflow Cleaner. Not a hard task, just takes a little time.

    Start with the free battery and alternator checks at most of the national automotive part store chains (autozone, etc..) . They also have the abiity to offer free computer diagnostic code analysis. If these two free tests don't yield any answers, I would suggest taking to a shop and have them look further into it.
  • east2westeast2west Member Posts: 4
    I agree with "stevenoh". Check these parts first, clean the Mass Airflow Sensor...
  • deedee76deedee76 Member Posts: 1
    So... my 99 I30 was purchased in 2008 as a gift from my grandmother for graduating college - This is the only car I've ever owned so I'm not too savvy - pardon my terminology ignorance in advance. I have (and my mother) have put nearly $3,000 into this money pit (cracked radiator, new tires, oil changes, maintainence check-ups, brake light failures, broken fog light, interior electronic issues - radio volume knob sticks horribly, dash lights come on at random (when nothing is wrong), windows will roll down& lights flash when car is not being unlocked/locked ... & more issues have just come up as of several days ago. I'm ready to take a baseball bat to it and finish the job myself. Now onto my current issue as of this last weekend:
    Driving home from work late at night I notice when I'm depressing the brake at stop lights the car starts going into a spaztic convulsion, thudding and shaking the entire frame every several seconds (no warning lights are on my dash), so I immediately pull over, turn everything off, wait a few minutes and start up again - I notice, while in Park and/or Neutral the "convulsions" aren't very noticeable (quieter and more subtle), then when put into drive (1st, 2nd, and D) it repeats the madness. I went to see my mom and she thought it was the transmission failing (as do I), but here's the strange part... I checked my Trans Dipstick - smells sweet and is a nice rosey color, then checked in the morning for leaks where I had parked - nothing; finally, took for another ride around to see if I noticed any slipping/catching gears when accelerating or high rpm - again, nothing - has plenty of torque - and thus, we come to my question...

    WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY CAR ?!?!? :sick:
    & Should I cut my losses and buy a Honda or Toyota? So puzzled and dismayed... help please!

    Thanks for indulging me and my rantings.
    -Amy
  • witnessxwitnessx Member Posts: 11
    edited November 2011
    Sounds like something electrical to me (could be alternator, or maybe a bad ground). Were there metal particles on the transmission dipstick when you checked the fluid?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm thinking more related to too low an engine idle, perhaps due to a misfire (which should light the engine light) or a vacuum leak (which would probably not light the light). Your tachometer should show about 700 rpm at warm idle in neutral.

    There can be many reasons for low engine idle, including, as witnessx suggests, some electrical issue. I don't think this is transmission related.

    so yeah, check for vacuum leaks and test the battery and alternator first off.

    It's also possible that cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensors might help.

    Even a badly clogged up air filter might cause this.
  • gielow43gielow43 Member Posts: 2
    I want to thank to two of you who repsonded to my email. Im mechanically illerate as well as new to this type of forum. I was very warmed to even get a response, and I want to thank you for taking your time to help a total stranger. I have cleaned the MAF sensor, as well as tighten a few loose valves and the car has not died since!!!!! Im very happy, releived and much safer.
  • gbarngbarn Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2001 infiniti i30 having a problem with it spittin and sputtern when it gets to 40 mph it catches up and runs fine till it gets to 60 mph if i try to excelerate past 60 it starts chuggin and then its like its not doin anything. Starter went out and it sat for about a month replaced starter and spark plugs and belts. Mechanic who replaced starter said its like it doesnt want to shift into that second gear mentioned throttle sensor or possible water in fuel. It seems to chug worse goin uphill.
  • jp31jp31 Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced transsmission oil(don't know the oil is good) and brakes with rotor, after that whenever I brake my car, my car stops, but when I put the leg back on gas paddle, it doesn'st start running immediately, I have to push a lot on the gas paddle. I show it to the fire stone guy and he says transmission slips and putting new transsmission oil may help.

    My car is infiniti I 30 1997 model.

    JP
  • witnessxwitnessx Member Posts: 11
    It MIGHT be the torque converter, but I doubt it. Sounds more like your mass air flow sensor has failed. Does the tach jump around a lot when driving?
  • esteigsesteigs Member Posts: 1
    Get your spark plugs changed, was having the EXACT same issue and switched them out and fixed it. Easy fix too, not too pricey. good luck!
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