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I have not been able to tie it to any specific thing (A/C, lights, etc.). The only RELIABLE way to stop it from doing it is to gas the engine hard, that arrests the symptom for the moment, and voltage returns to normal. I have tried checking wires, etc. I am on my third alternator/voltage regulator on advice from shops. During the first two changes, it did not happen for 3 months after the new one was installed, and then it starts again. On this one (a new one NOT a rebuild) it began right away.
Could this be a broken down ground wire? So by revving the engine I am increasing the potential and jumping some small breakage in the wire? Visible inspection does not show any broken wires, etc. Has anyone else seen this - or do you have any good ideas on troubleshooting I could do. I would greatly appreciate any insights. Thanks!!
:confuse:
Thanks, ~CathMac
The jolting problem was mentioned to the dealer before it was purchased. The dealer said it probably was a bad shock or unbalanced tire and it would be fixed under GM warranty. They said they would fix it when the tags came in. The AC noise and the brakes were noticed after the sale. When the Tags came in and the truck was taken to the dealer by my wife, she was told that the jolting was a problem with the crew cab trucks and they had already tried to fix two others and GM said it was "NORMAL" and would not fix it. They said the AC was "NORMAL" and would not fix it. They said the brakes were ok. After filing with the BBB, GM and the dealer said they would try new tires. That helped very little. GM also showed a service bulletin from Dec. of 2004 addressing the jolting. They called it "beaming" "vibration". They said if you put 500 pounds in the bed just behind the wheel well it will reduce the "beaming". So you loose half your payload and (with gas prices) you carry a load around all the time or jolt. When the service manager was asked about the AC noise he said "what’s a little noise, the engine makes noise and that is normal". Peltier Chevrolet knew about the "beaming". GM said it was normal and sorry but your case is closed. I have to agree with an earlier post. GM DOES NOT CARE ABOUT THE CUSTOMER ONCE THEY HAVE YOUR MONEY.
I did drive another 2005 truck just like mine (business rental; 600 miles) and it was worse on the jolting, about the same on the AC noise and the brakes were what I would call normal. I would like to remind GM, The Ford Pinto gas tank problem was presented as “NORMAL” until a fireman in Corpus Christy, Texas watched his daughter burn up in one. The GM design is flawed on the suspension and on the AC cavitation noise. The noise means some day the tubing is going to fail and the truck is going to be flooded with a cloud of gas. JUST FIX IT now before someone gets hurt!! :lemon:
I have a 2005 Ascender (made by GM) and it does not have this noise, the 2005 Tahoe does not have this noise. ?
They quoted 566.25 for the part and 170.00 to instal .
I said no thanks because it doenst stay on all the time.
Any thoughts on this or where I can get a cheaper part.
thanks
it is an automatic
They ruled against me and said that there was nothing wrong with the car. this despite two certified Audi mechanics claiming that there was serious problem with the car.
If it is a 4 wheel drive model, the front end can be adjusted by adjusting the torsion bars.
I would be trading a 2000 Silverado Sport Truck - been offered $8900 trade in: WITH THE FOLLOWING MODS
2000 Chevrolet Silverado Stepside 4.8 Liter 5 Speed Manual
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This truck has 120,000 miles (I bought it at 24000)
K&N Cold Air induction system with a Granatelli MAF SENSOR
GIBSON HEADERS with a cat-back flowmaster exhaust system.
(THIS TRUCK SOUNDS AMAZING, TRUST ME, WHEN YOU HEAR IT YOU KNOW IT MEANS BUSINESS)
EATON POSI-TRACTION REAR END (LOCKS COMPLETELY UNDER 20 MILER PER HOUR)
20 inch very elegant wheels (NOT GHETTO)
BRAND NEW COOPER DISCOVERY HP 275/45/20 Tires (VERY PRICEY)
BELLTECH 2/4 Drop kit (Spindle kit which doesn't change ride quality at all)
Gas-adjust shocks in case you need to haul something in the bed
Black Rollup "Lite-rider" Tonneau Cover (VERY NICE, EASY TO ROLL UP AND DOWN, NICE FRAME NO SNAPS)
CHROME BILLET GRILL
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While yes, it is beginning to show signs of aging - squeaks, rattles, whines - IT RUNS GREAT - and it is paid for. I pay $1200 a year FULL COVERAGE STATE FARM. I am 23 years old.
My question is this - I have about 12K Cash saved - and my truck trade in offer today was $8940.
I'm looking at an 06 black SI NO NAV - for right at MSRP (19990) plus tax = $22k
OR
a 2004 WRX Impreza with 7800 miles for $20000 + TAX = 22500.
Is it being immature, and stupid to trade my nice custom, good running truck in now on a new (almost new) car, or should I invest a little money ($2k) and get my truck squeekless, smooth, and drive it for another few years until I can save more money to get an even nicer car?? OR should I just say goodbye to my reliable old beauty and get a new one??
I'm plannin on going to law school in 9 months. So thats a factor.
Picture of my truck HERE
I NEED SUGGESTIONS AND PRO/CONS
insurance on both the new cars would SKYROCKET to $2200 a year.
HELP ME!!! LOSING MY MIND THINKING ABOUT MY DECISION
I was originally thinking of investing in a new Alpine double din DVD headunit, rear headrest displays, backup cam, Katkinz leather seat covers w/heaters, and several other goodies. All of these things would've cost me roughly $8 - $9k, said and done. But now Chevy's shown the new Avalanche, and the LTZ pretty much fits the bill of my dream truck, with ALL the stuff I wanted on a truck, and better suited to my use of a truck in general (75% family hauler, towing roughly once a year, hauling stuff several times a year, hauling things like plywood, etc. maybe twice a year) than my EC is. Problem is, I expect sticker on the vehicle I want to be around $45k.
Financially, I'm probably best sticking with the Silvy. But my heart (maybe greed? ) says go with the Avalanche, and I'm seriously looking into it.
So only you can say if it's going to be worth it to you. You have to balance your wants with your needs and capabilities. I know the feeling of being dissatisfied with what you have, and also know that it can be worth it to quench that feeling..
Good luck.
I must have clicked the reply button on your post instead of the one on dowright82's post (#180). I don't have any input on your speaker problem. Sorry.
I've also been looking forward to the DoD engines. Same performance as my current 5.3 (better, actually, based on hp / torque) but more fuel efficient. Probably 80% of my current truck's time has been spent cruising the interstate without a load. Since a lot of that time would have been in 4 cylinder mode I'm sure I'd see even better mileage than the 21+ best I logged in my truck back in October (manually calculated). I know that some people are concerned about reliability and durability for these new engines but that's what warranties are for.
I also feel that comparing the Avalanche to the crew cab truck favors the Av at least for our use. The truck's bed is 5'8" in length, which isn't far off the Av's. But the Avalanche comes with lockable storage boxes and included hard cover. Then there's the ability to extend the enclosed space for longer loads, such as plywood, lumber, etc. through the use of the midgate. The closest the crew can come to that is the use of a bed extender and those loads will be left exposed to the weather. All this is with a shorter overall wheelbase for easier maneuvering around parking lots and better fit in garages. I have maybe 12" extra space in my garage with the ECSB Silverado.
But to each his own. If I didn't have children I'm sure I'd go with another Silverado, because of the option of a longer box with a camper shell.
For someone looking to have a greater mix of truck-type use to family-type use, a truck is probably a better fit. But I wouldn't be looking at the crew cab then, at least not the 1/2 ton trucks. Probably more like a 3/4 ton with at least a 6.5' box.
Thx,
Kevin
I want to rebuild the engine. I'm also planning to replace the rear-end gears to be quicker off the line. Here's my question, What order should I do the rebuild? Should I do the rear-end before I replace the cam because it affects the rpms? Im also replacing the intake manifold and ignition. I need tips! email me at kent@isp.com
If this helps, leave the bags in the bed. You can use some of them aslo to secure long cargo - pipes, long boards by placing them on top.
1. Low Coolant light comes on. When checking the reservoir, it only appears to be down about 1/2". I purchased a gallon of the pre-mixed Dex Cool to use to top off, but still can't figure out if there is a leak, or if it's something worse.
2. Low Washer Fluid. I believe I might have a leak in one of the seams of the white plastic bottle. When I got underneath the truck, the bottom of the bottle was wet, but I couldn't pinpoint a leak.
3. Gear Indicator. When the truck is warmed up (usually after I have been driving it for about 1/2 hour), and I shift from drive to reverse, the gear indicator on the dash will sometimes remain in drive, then move to reverse. When I shift to Park, the gear indicator will either show the vehicle as being in "R", or sometimes moves back to "Drive". Although the vehicle is actually in Park, the gear indicator is showing as being in another gear but will not allow the doors to unlock automatically as it's supposed to do when it is put in Park.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!