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Jeep Liberty: Problems & Solutions
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I also saw that other people's dealers said the clicking sound when put into gear is normal. Some do, some don't. What's the lowdown?
I'm terribly concerned about my 02. I'm about 30 days from warranty end.
Thanks
It starts vibrations and resonance at 135km/hour (around 2300 rpm) while pushing the gas pedal and it disappears at 150 km/h.
The following didn't work:
- Balancing and aligning tires
- Changing tires
- Checking shafts (I dont know how?)
- Changing the shaft ring
Any ideas why?
Ender
Anyone have any experience with the "TPM" system? I had a flat and the system acted properly and even reset after 2 minutes as it should, but indicated low pressure on the spare (as it should, since it was flat!). But after putting a new tire on that rim, the TPM still says "Spare Low Pressure" after driving many miles. I don't think it should matter that the original spare is now my left front tire, since all 5 are supposed to have sensors. Any other thoughts out there?
Thanks!!
First kit I found was Rocky Road. I used OTT front and spacers rear. Later I changed to strut spacers front. Rustyś full suspension kit came much later.
I have Rusty, because it is the highest full suspension kit I have found.
I like its soft (better then factory) ride and when you go faster, upper front bumpstops do their job. Using OTT lift or strut spacers upper A arms cannot reach bumpstops - you go hard and overstress the ball joints in their limits = problems with them.
You asked tires too. I´m using 245/70 R16, with very little rubbing in end positin of steering (normal is 235/70 R16). I can conceive 265/70 R16 with more rubbing, but acceptable. Greater tires would probably cause problems.
I have BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A and I would buy them again. VERY good allrounder.
Interesting is too, with dismounted rear shaft there was strong vibration coming from the front by about 90 km/h. (I don´t have permanent AWD)
Inspect the cardan joints, maybe you will find somebody who can ballance the rear shaft.
Thanks, great info. I think that's the conclusion i came to, so thank you for the post - I think that helps me make up my mind. I'm still trying to find out if the lift and bigger tires impact the warranty at all. Some people say it could and other say a 2.5" lift is OK. Any thoughts? I'm still waiting to hear back from Chrysler, my dealer didn't know...
Steve, Host
my first problem with Liberty: Liberty was quietly lowered. As I became a lowered Liberty, I complaited and looked for some lift kit. I became a letter from importeur which allowed installing of longer shocks and springs: "Using of longer springs and shock absorbers don´t overstress suspension and drive train".
But my claiming of vibrations after changing of universal joint (see my other post) importer refused because "angles of drive shaft are greater than 3 degrees, which can cause the vibration". Maybe, angles were 4,5 degrees, but before cardan joint change there were no vibrations at all.
I had and have some problems with Liberty, but more problems did I have with DaimlerChrysler. Maybe they had a lot of claims...
Im driving lifted Liberty for 2 years and over 30.000 miles. I am confident lifting does not overstress anything on Liberty. And in my warranty book stays, that mounting of aftermarket parts don´t affect the warranty. Maybe you will find such like things in yours...
Ender, do you have vibrations both in 2HI and 4HI? I have strongest vibs in 4HI at 90km/h accelerating.
Vibs as ender describes (110-150 km/h) are in 2 HI only and are smooth. I suppose rear shaft need better balancing.
I had vibrations increasing with time in cold weather only and the problem came from wear of the engine fan coupling to the serpentine belt. The fan was 'jerking' in the cold air flow and the noise was amplified by the exhaust line. The way to spot this problem is to grab the fan when it's cold and check for play by twisting it on it's shaft. This symptom was only noticeable at 70 mph at the beginning and lately I could even reproduce it in the 'Park' position. It's ok now. :shades:
It vibrates only when Im accelerating in 4WD. In 2WD mode it is soft.
Front shaft has constant velocity (homokinetic joints). The rear shaft has cardan universal joints. Maybe if both shafts are strongly connected together in 4WD it can cause this "resonance" at higher speeds?.
But - with dismounted rear shaft - vibrations are even stronger.
Usually I´m accelerating from 80 to 100km/h in 4.gear, then change to 5. Over 100 are no vibs.
I have found this same vibration or resonance on another Liberty, 2,5 CRD manual tranny, too. Maybe it is some phenomenon of diesel with manual tranny.
Would you try on your Lib if there is any difference between 4WD-open diff and 4WD-locked diff at 90 km/h when accelerating?
The transfer case uses a chain and epicycloid gears. This gives a certain 'softness' or 'play' in the transmission, but mine is normal.
- The engine connects bottom left,
- The front drive shaft connects bottom right,
- The rear drive shaft connects on top.
- The shifting lever should connect where the green plug is on the lever.
You can also see the two shifting rings that give hi/low and 2or4 wd.
It's the first time I come across this picture that explains very well why 2wd doesn't shake and 4wd does. The front axis is driven alone by the chain.
I need more explanation... Why should it vibrate driven by the chain at about 2000 rpm of engine in all gears and strongest at 5th gear?
I hope this helps about the flashing, because whatever it does, worked real good for me.
They're excellent vehicles. You've found a jeep liberty 'problems' board, so most of the posts will be, alas, problems. However, it's a good idea to check out a problems board for ANY vehicle you want, just to get a feel for what CONSISTENT issues seem to come up. Thus far, I can strongly recommend the Jeep Liberty.
Paul
Steelblue02
I quess I am luck to have my choice of two five star dealers that deserve more than five stars. I have had great response from the Service Manager at all but one of the seven dealers I have used for service in the last 15 years. Just as a note as to how I aproach a problem, I always somehow get to watch the Tec do the work. I usually leave something in the truck and make a point of needing to get it, after it's in the shop. I am pretty outgoing and strike up a conversation with the Tec while he is working. I just try to establish some kind or dialogue. I watch for a while and leave. Then a short time latter I return with a soft drink for the guy. (or coffee if it's cold.) I have never had anyone turn down a drink.
When the car is done, and I am pleased, before I leave, I go to the Tec. and tell him I am pleased (if I am) and give hime enough to buy a coke or something. Never nothing much just enough to help him remember I appreciated his work. When I get home I call the Service Manager and tell him that I am pleased and praise his Tec for a job well done. I have at times let the dealership manager know how pleased I am with their service manager and the specfic Tec.
This may seem like a lot of P. R. but it really works. Dealers, Service Managers, and Tec's ALLWAYS hera complaints. But when someone says something nice they are totally blown away. Sounds old fashion, but my Dad taught me this about 40 years ago, and it works. I had a 1996 Dodge Caravan, a real lemon if ever there was one! Whar eventually happened was after 22,000 miles Chrysler replaced it with a brand New Caravan and only cost me $25. registration fee! That's unheard of, but they went out of their way because I went out of my way to say I was pleased.
I don't know when yours was made, but mine had a recall to reflash the computer. When I first got it we got 14 to 16 mpg. After reflashing and with 3000 miles on it we then got 18.75 to 20.5 mpg. We use the fulltime quite a bit and live on a hilly gravel dirt road. So I am pleased with the mpg.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Friday afternoon I took delivery of the jeep and we went out on the highway with it. The oil light had come on, and I figured it needed an oil change. I had my wife take it to the shop to get an oil change and get a visual look over, guy there at the shop tells me everything looks good underneath, no visable problems. I then drove it home 20 miles from Mason City. No problems. Then we drove to another town 15 miles away to charles city and back for supper with out issue. The next day, (this would be saturday, yesterday) we drove back to Mason City and on the way home about 5 miles from home the oil light came on. I pulled over and checked the oil, it was right where it should be. I started it back up, it sounded ok and I started driving it home. about a mile from my house the engine started getting really noisey, more specifically the sound of dry lifters, hence why I think the oil pump is going out. I started it this morning to have a mechanic look at it and it made some noise at first then cleared up, oil light went back off and ran normal for another 15 miles.
Any one care to help me here? I think I have a bad oil pump, any idea on what that will cost? My wife and I love tyhe jeep, but to have a car poop out less than 48 hours later is disheartening. I will check the board periodically, some one care to advise me of something else it could be? My mechanic doesn't seem very comfortable about this car, he is a GM man. Please help!
I thought maybe there was someone here whom could say that it may be something simple, I dunno, perhaps not necessarily the oil pump though I think it is. Perhaps it's a clogged line for the oil cooler, or a sensor problem, who knows. I tried to call the dealership where I got it but they are closed sundays. I guess I have to wait at this point untill monday morning and see what they are willing to do on this.
Does anyone have any ideas or contributing thoughts what could cause a drop in oil pressure on a liberty?
rt7679
thanks for the FYI about water temp, and sorry it's a v6 model.
Thank you in advance.
Ifeel fairly sure that if you l;ook down and see how the angle of your foot is, it is quite possible your right foot is also touching the accelerator as well. Ifound this out myself, as it happened to me and my size 12 foot. Hope this helps.
I've been hanging out hear ,I've been thinking about buying one my self,I don't wont the gas,beging that the price of gas is so much money on the east coast,how much is your price of gas by you.,
I'm looking at the limited Diesel
Brad,NJ,east coast.
""Type 43" is just a designation for the instrument cluster in your vehicle. If the lettering appears to be illuminated, it may be caused by reflection or light bleeding through. However, it does not signify a fault in your vehicle."
So there you go!
This message is in reply to "Tranny Issues" post #1586 & 87. Take a look back a couple dozen posts and you'll find lots on this issue. I've been fighting with my dealership service department on this issue since I got my 2005 Libby in December. It shifts down hard and often stutters on the upshift and/or upshifts prematurely. Coupled with this, it doesn't like to downshift on it's own, especially in cruise control. It will actually slow down about 10 MPH below the setpoint before it downshifts with a thud and then accelerates rapidly to catch up. The best advice I've seen so far is the discussion on "Flashing the Chip" or "TCM Flash" the dealer calls it. My KJ is in the shop right now getting this done. There was evidently new software created which helps this issue and i understand a recall was done, though I never received notice of a recall. I'll let you know if it seems to help.
One thing I've noticed that helps in stop-n-go traffic is to turn off the overdrive switch. This will keep in in a lower gear automatically and seems to cause less down-shifting or premature upshifting.
Hope this helps!
Anza1