Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Liberty: Problems & Solutions

1252628303137

Comments

  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Normally there is a vent connected between the valve cover and the intake manifold. If this hose is clogged or pinched there will be condensation left near the oil filler cap.
  • libby2004libby2004 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I was wondering if anyone has had problems with their interior doom lights staying on. We took it to the dealer and they said it was caused from the hitch we installed, so they disconnected the hitch,but the lights still didn't go out like they should. I know they're supposed to stay on for a minute or so, but they stay on through the whole time we're in the vehicle. Can anyone offer suggestions as to what the problem might be? Thanks!
  • mentholmoosementholmoose Member Posts: 2
    I get the same hesitation between 1st and 2nd (in automatic). It's very uncomfortable because it's unpredictable. I also get very uneven downshifting when decellerating from 45 to 15-20. Anyone have this issue?

    I also saw that other people's dealers said the clicking sound when put into gear is normal. Some do, some don't. What's the lowdown?

    I'm terribly concerned about my 02. I'm about 30 days from warranty end.
  • tink49676tink49676 Member Posts: 1
    my husband just bought a 2003 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4...... The day after we got it we started hearing a chirping noise sounds like it is coming from the front. It only chirps if you are going down the road or are sitting still with it in drive. If you put it in reverse or neutral the chirping stops. Any one have an idea of what it could be?

    Thanks
  • wmcmahanwmcmahan Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2004 red Jeep Liberty in January, 2005. I really like it sizewise. It's 2 feet shorter than the 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I traded for it and fits nicely in my garage. After I bought it, I noticed that it was getting 14 miles per gallon highway. I took it back to the dealer and they suggested that I change the sparkplugs, at my expense, because the vehicle had 30,000 miles on it. I did so and ran the tank from full to empty, getting this time 15 miles per gallon highway. It now goes 300 miles on one 19.5 gallon tank. I am disillusioned and about ready to trade it in for another make of compact SUV with better mileage. What I can't understand is why Chrysler would build a compact design that underperforms the mileage of it's older predecessor, the Grand Cherokee?
  • liberty4allliberty4all Member Posts: 7
    This is how I found out that the liberty's were all ready set up for towing even if they did not come with a hitch. It was a big slip up on my service tech and I am sure you will not get a tech to tell you this with out side stepping you in one way or the other trust me I have tried over the phone with other dealer's. They just don't want you to know this. As GOD as my witness, this is what he told me, Jeep pre installs all the goodies for towing at the factory, only because it is a bear for the service guy's to install them after the build and not cost effective for the customer to have them installed later, therefore people might just start looking for something else to tow with. I did not have the tow package listed on my sticker when I bought my 04 autotrans v6, I did not have the off road package, I did not have crap on my liberty that would have had any thing to do with towing but it was all there except for a hitch and wiring. Now here is were I messed up, when I bought mine I told them I was going to tow, and boy did the salesman jump at the chance to tell me he would take care of it. Sure did, charged me the tow package price just for a hitch and wiring = twice as much as if I had kept my mouth shut and had it done at U-HAUL myself, but i did not know any better at the time. I just want you all to take a good look at what you have on your Liberty before you make the same mistake and not to get (hood winked) like so many of us already have. If you are thinking of buying new, POP THAT HOOD and take a good look and if you don't know what you are looking for take a friend that does! :confuse:
  • enderender Member Posts: 3
    Hi I had the same problem with the gauge changing the state for my 2004 Liberty 2.8 CRD. It is solved by the dealer by uploading a special software developed by DC. Your dealer might probably can get the same programming instructions. However I still cannot solve the vibration problem at stop lights and overspeeds (at 135 km/h). Any input will be appreciated. - Ender
  • enderender Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2004 Liberty CRD (2.8) with automatic transmission at 12000 kms now.
    It starts vibrations and resonance at 135km/hour (around 2300 rpm) while pushing the gas pedal and it disappears at 150 km/h.
    The following didn't work:
    - Balancing and aligning tires
    - Changing tires
    - Checking shafts (I dont know how?)
    - Changing the shaft ring
    Any ideas why?
    Ender
  • anza1anza1 Member Posts: 8
    Hi All!
    Anyone have any experience with the "TPM" system? I had a flat and the system acted properly and even reset after 2 minutes as it should, but indicated low pressure on the spare (as it should, since it was flat!). But after putting a new tire on that rim, the TPM still says "Spare Low Pressure" after driving many miles. I don't think it should matter that the original spare is now my left front tire, since all 5 are supposed to have sensors. Any other thoughts out there?
    Thanks!!
  • russellsrussells Member Posts: 2
    My wife's 2003 liberty's dash has major problems, when driving it the other day all the warning lights came on and it started to buzz. then the dash lights went out and the speedo quit along with the tach and fuel gauge and temp gauge. The dealer said it need a complete dash cluster but after searching this site it seems that the problem might be with the speed sensors or the computer. has anyone had this problem please advise as the dash cluster is $507 plus labor
  • renegaderrenegader Member Posts: 73
    Hello Anza1,
    First kit I found was Rocky Road. I used OTT front and spacers rear. Later I changed to strut spacers front. Rustyś full suspension kit came much later.

    I have Rusty, because it is the highest full suspension kit I have found.
    I like its soft (better then factory) ride and when you go faster, upper front bumpstops do their job. Using OTT lift or strut spacers upper A arms cannot reach bumpstops - you go hard and overstress the ball joints in their limits = problems with them.

    You asked tires too. I´m using 245/70 R16, with very little rubbing in end positin of steering (normal is 235/70 R16). I can conceive 265/70 R16 with more rubbing, but acceptable. Greater tires would probably cause problems.
    I have BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A and I would buy them again. VERY good allrounder.
  • renegaderrenegader Member Posts: 73
    I had the same problem, by 30 000 miles the rear universal joint had to be replaced - it was out of lubricant. It caused vibrations in any speed while releasing the gas pedal. After change of joint I had vibrations in the same interval as you have. I bought pair of another joints and changed them, now its nearly OK.

    Interesting is too, with dismounted rear shaft there was strong vibration coming from the front by about 90 km/h. (I don´t have permanent AWD)

    Inspect the cardan joints, maybe you will find somebody who can ballance the rear shaft.
  • anza1anza1 Member Posts: 8
    Hey Renegader!
    Thanks, great info. I think that's the conclusion i came to, so thank you for the post - I think that helps me make up my mind. I'm still trying to find out if the lift and bigger tires impact the warranty at all. Some people say it could and other say a 2.5" lift is OK. Any thoughts? I'm still waiting to hear back from Chrysler, my dealer didn't know...
  • hatcherhatcher Member Posts: 1
    hi, i am having an awful problem with my 02 liberty limited. Out of the blue it is slipping gears. I accelerate past 2nd and it slips into neutral. I had to drop the automatic down into 2nd and drie it home. Has anyone had this type of problem or know what might be wrong. Dealership wants over $500 just to tell me what's going on!!!! :cry:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Have you tried checking for vibrations running the engine at 2300 rpm in all gears?
  • rdsx05rdsx05 Member Posts: 2
    I am about to purchase a 2005 Liberty and I found this board, now that I am reading I am a little leary! Are they good vehicles? or Not?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You are going to find mostly problems posts in a problems discussion, so keep that in mind as you read this board. Check out the "regular" Jeep Liberty discussion for "regular" threads too.

    Steve, Host
  • rdsx05rdsx05 Member Posts: 2
    But I mean do they had alot of problems? Because I read the consumer report on it it was pretty good, not excellent, but fair and they recommended it.
  • renegaderrenegader Member Posts: 73
    Hallo Anza1,
    my first problem with Liberty: Liberty was quietly lowered. As I became a lowered Liberty, I complaited and looked for some lift kit. I became a letter from importeur which allowed installing of longer shocks and springs: "Using of longer springs and shock absorbers don´t overstress suspension and drive train".
    But my claiming of vibrations after changing of universal joint (see my other post) importer refused because "angles of drive shaft are greater than 3 degrees, which can cause the vibration". Maybe, angles were 4,5 degrees, but before cardan joint change there were no vibrations at all.
    I had and have some problems with Liberty, but more problems did I have with DaimlerChrysler. Maybe they had a lot of claims...

    Im driving lifted Liberty for 2 years and over 30.000 miles. I am confident lifting does not overstress anything on Liberty. And in my warranty book stays, that mounting of aftermarket parts don´t affect the warranty. Maybe you will find such like things in yours...
  • renegaderrenegader Member Posts: 73
    Yes, I did. Vibration occures at AWD in any gear at 2000 rpm . Higher gear = stronger vibrations. But: I have manual tranny and not permanent AWD. Only SelecTrac.

    Ender, do you have vibrations both in 2HI and 4HI? I have strongest vibs in 4HI at 90km/h accelerating.

    Vibs as ender describes (110-150 km/h) are in 2 HI only and are smooth. I suppose rear shaft need better balancing.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    "Higher gear = stronger vibrations" => This seems to be related to effort, typically the transmission.
    I had vibrations increasing with time in cold weather only and the problem came from wear of the engine fan coupling to the serpentine belt. The fan was 'jerking' in the cold air flow and the noise was amplified by the exhaust line. The way to spot this problem is to grab the fan when it's cold and check for play by twisting it on it's shaft. This symptom was only noticeable at 70 mph at the beginning and lately I could even reproduce it in the 'Park' position. It's ok now. :shades:
  • renegaderrenegader Member Posts: 73
    "Higher gear = stronger vibrations => This seems to be related to effort, typically the transmission."

    It vibrates only when Im accelerating in 4WD. In 2WD mode it is soft.

    Front shaft has constant velocity (homokinetic joints). The rear shaft has cardan universal joints. Maybe if both shafts are strongly connected together in 4WD it can cause this "resonance" at higher speeds?.
    But - with dismounted rear shaft - vibrations are even stronger.
    Usually I´m accelerating from 80 to 100km/h in 4.gear, then change to 5. Over 100 are no vibs.

    I have found this same vibration or resonance on another Liberty, 2,5 CRD manual tranny, too. Maybe it is some phenomenon of diesel with manual tranny.

    Would you try on your Lib if there is any difference between 4WD-open diff and 4WD-locked diff at 90 km/h when accelerating?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I have only used 4WD-locked in deep snow at such speed.
    The transfer case uses a chain and epicycloid gears. This gives a certain 'softness' or 'play' in the transmission, but mine is normal.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I just found a nice picture of my chain driven transfer case:
    - The engine connects bottom left,
    - The front drive shaft connects bottom right,
    - The rear drive shaft connects on top.
    - The shifting lever should connect where the green plug is on the lever.
    You can also see the two shifting rings that give hi/low and 2or4 wd.
    It's the first time I come across this picture that explains very well why 2wd doesn't shake and 4wd does. The front axis is driven alone by the chain. :cry:

    image
  • renegaderrenegader Member Posts: 73
    "this picture that explains very well why 2wd doesn't shake and 4wd does. The front axis is driven alone by the chain."

    I need more explanation... Why should it vibrate driven by the chain at about 2000 rpm of engine in all gears and strongest at 5th gear?
  • renegaderrenegader Member Posts: 73
    Today I tried to disconnect rear shaft and rotate it 180° (rear joint). It helped = vibs in2WD are smoother and above 120 km/h. It is 30 minutes job, when you can feel any difference after doing it, you need only ballance the rear shaft.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    On 3-3--05 I got a notice to reflask/reprogram pcm. I took it in that day. I have a 2005 ltd. with lots of goodies. I had complained about 14 to 16 mpg, and told that's was just about normal. That was dismal mpg as far as I was concerned. After the reflash, my milage went to 17.75 to 20 mpg. I do not know what that reflash did, but it helped my mpg. My liberty now has almost 5000 miles on it. I am liking it more, but at first I thought I had made a very serious 60 month mistake. After some driving and findind my arround the jeep, I have learned to like it a lot. I just wish the leather seats were not so darn stiff! A little more foot room for the driver is really needed! It is one tough truck and it seem like either my seat or my butt will adapt. Wow, these 235 65 17 hp tires are outragious in price! I wanted to get a more aggressive tread and found out it was hard to find and high dollar as well.

    I hope this helps about the flashing, because whatever it does, worked real good for me. :D
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    2000 rpm is when the engine gives it's maximum torque. In low gear to produce a given effort (work) the engine has more time (less speed). In high gear the effort on the engine is often greater which causes the rpm to go down like when going uphill. Add to this the small amount of elasticity due to the chain transmission when you have high loads and you get a Liberty!
  • jnautjnaut Member Posts: 17
    Yeah, that sounds like a real problem. Any transmission that 'dropping' into neutral definitely has an issue. However, I'm skeptical of the dealer wanting $500 just to tell you what's wrong with it. You might shop around-- your liberty is undoubtedly out of warranty. So go to a good mechanic.
  • jnautjnaut Member Posts: 17
    rdsx05:

    They're excellent vehicles. You've found a jeep liberty 'problems' board, so most of the posts will be, alas, problems. However, it's a good idea to check out a problems board for ANY vehicle you want, just to get a feel for what CONSISTENT issues seem to come up. Thus far, I can strongly recommend the Jeep Liberty.

    Paul
  • steelblue02steelblue02 Member Posts: 2
    My wife's '02 Liberty Limited (seems limiting) just had similar problem. It was a valve in the transmission that shifts it into 3rd gear. The bolts on the valve body were not designed to be strong enough. New valve body has correct strength bolts. This is covered under Power train warrantee. Also, press dealership for a rental at their expense; we got one.

    Steelblue02
  • steelblue02steelblue02 Member Posts: 2
    I have an '02 Limited and experience same types of problems. Shop foreman at my "5 star dealer" said that they can be "finicky". I was also told that I shouldn't ride around in "full time 4WD" on dry pavement, even though my owners manual specifically states that FT 4WD can be used on all driving surfaces, including "Dry Pavement". "5 Star Dealer" service also "cannot duplicate"! What a load of crap!
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Your are correct, any fulltime means exactally that! Get the Service manager involved, even the dealership manager, call Chrysler at 1800-992-1997, make a complaint. Keep asking politely for someone higher, and praise the person who refered you higher, and teh one who is helping you now. Patients is the key!

    I quess I am luck to have my choice of two five star dealers that deserve more than five stars. I have had great response from the Service Manager at all but one of the seven dealers I have used for service in the last 15 years. Just as a note as to how I aproach a problem, I always somehow get to watch the Tec do the work. I usually leave something in the truck and make a point of needing to get it, after it's in the shop. I am pretty outgoing and strike up a conversation with the Tec while he is working. I just try to establish some kind or dialogue. I watch for a while and leave. Then a short time latter I return with a soft drink for the guy. (or coffee if it's cold.) I have never had anyone turn down a drink.

    When the car is done, and I am pleased, before I leave, I go to the Tec. and tell him I am pleased (if I am) and give hime enough to buy a coke or something. Never nothing much just enough to help him remember I appreciated his work. When I get home I call the Service Manager and tell him that I am pleased and praise his Tec for a job well done. I have at times let the dealership manager know how pleased I am with their service manager and the specfic Tec.

    This may seem like a lot of P. R. but it really works. Dealers, Service Managers, and Tec's ALLWAYS hera complaints. But when someone says something nice they are totally blown away. Sounds old fashion, but my Dad taught me this about 40 years ago, and it works. I had a 1996 Dodge Caravan, a real lemon if ever there was one! Whar eventually happened was after 22,000 miles Chrysler replaced it with a brand New Caravan and only cost me $25. registration fee! That's unheard of, but they went out of their way because I went out of my way to say I was pleased.
  • liberlimitedliberlimited Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased 05 liberty with 3.7 I am noticing a pronounced low end bearing noise at idle. dealer says normal for this engine they all have it ..as well as valve noise. Any one think this sounds right? car has 500 miles on it. My other 03 has no such noises. Any thoughts are appreciated.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Liberlimited: I got our 05 Ltd in late Jan this year. I now have 5120 miles on it. I have never noticed any bearing noise. I do notice when I make a right turn up our very steep (up) driveway, and the auto trans sifts to a very low gear, lower than my Dokota did. I am very pleased so far.

    I don't know when yours was made, but mine had a recall to reflash the computer. When I first got it we got 14 to 16 mpg. After reflashing and with 3000 miles on it we then got 18.75 to 20.5 mpg. We use the fulltime quite a bit and live on a hilly gravel dirt road. So I am pleased with the mpg.

    Good luck and hope this helps.
  • rt7679rt7679 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought this car used on friday april 15th, has 90k miles on it, seems great untill last night. I noticed right away that it seems to run hot, the temperature guage is at half mast on the dial, most of my other cars are 1/4 to 1/3 up on the meter, but each vehicle is different.
    Friday afternoon I took delivery of the jeep and we went out on the highway with it. The oil light had come on, and I figured it needed an oil change. I had my wife take it to the shop to get an oil change and get a visual look over, guy there at the shop tells me everything looks good underneath, no visable problems. I then drove it home 20 miles from Mason City. No problems. Then we drove to another town 15 miles away to charles city and back for supper with out issue. The next day, (this would be saturday, yesterday) we drove back to Mason City and on the way home about 5 miles from home the oil light came on. I pulled over and checked the oil, it was right where it should be. I started it back up, it sounded ok and I started driving it home. about a mile from my house the engine started getting really noisey, more specifically the sound of dry lifters, hence why I think the oil pump is going out. I started it this morning to have a mechanic look at it and it made some noise at first then cleared up, oil light went back off and ran normal for another 15 miles.

    Any one care to help me here? I think I have a bad oil pump, any idea on what that will cost? My wife and I love tyhe jeep, but to have a car poop out less than 48 hours later is disheartening. I will check the board periodically, some one care to advise me of something else it could be? My mechanic doesn't seem very comfortable about this car, he is a GM man. Please help!
  • badnessbadness Member Posts: 242
    Yes,Bring it back to where you bought ,simpe ? to answer.
  • rt7679rt7679 Member Posts: 3
    well sure, I know that, but my wife and I really love the jeep liberty and I more than likely wont find the same prrice elsewhere. We paid $9600 for a 2002 sport w/ 90k miles and a very clean car fax report, the only thing that seemed strange was the fact that it was sold at auction twice in less than a month, but I am sure that may be pretty common. The same year and model everywhere else I look is at least 12k and up.

    I thought maybe there was someone here whom could say that it may be something simple, I dunno, perhaps not necessarily the oil pump though I think it is. Perhaps it's a clogged line for the oil cooler, or a sensor problem, who knows. I tried to call the dealership where I got it but they are closed sundays. I guess I have to wait at this point untill monday morning and see what they are willing to do on this.
    Does anyone have any ideas or contributing thoughts what could cause a drop in oil pressure on a liberty?
  • zeke1312zeke1312 Member Posts: 7
    Yes, sounds like the oil pump or clogged line, etc. May have to drop the pan, look at the oil pump strainer. I would not drive the vehicle another inch until the problem is located. I know when I had a problem with my 84 vette, after changing the oil, the oil pump would not prime and the lifters started to make noise, had the pump replaced. The engine temp guage reading sounds OK. My 05 reads at half when the engine warms up. When the engine oil light comes on, there is a real problem with oil pressure. You didn't state if you have a 4 cyl or V6. Don't drive it until you get it fixed. Sounds like others had the same problem. That's why it was at an auction 2x. Check with CarFax to see car history, if any. Look at title for last owner can contact that person.Bottom line is you need someone that knows how to repair engines.
  • rt7679rt7679 Member Posts: 3
    The jeep is in the shop now, getting probed, poked and prodded untill a problem surfaces. In he meantime I have to sit tight and wait for what comes.
    rt7679

    thanks for the FYI about water temp, and sorry it's a v6 model.
  • ejkrrno55ejkrrno55 Member Posts: 1
    The other day I backed into a parking space. I then pulled forward to straighten the Jeep out. When I went to press on my brakes the Jeep kept moving forward and would not stop. As a result the Jeep rolled into a truck in front of me and the engine was still revving. I had to put it in neutral before it would stop. Then I was able to back up into the original spaced I parked in, after damaging the front of the Jeep. Has anyone experienced anything like this? If so, please respond as soon as possible.
    Thank you in advance.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    The Audi's had an exact problem about 8 or ten years ago. There were some people who went into garage walls and even ran over their own kids! There were many tests done and the end results were amazing. The Jeep Liberty has a simular issue, I believe. The brake peddle is located in a slightly different location from where you normally find a brake peddle. This is just enough for your foot to touch the accelerator and the brake at the same time. While braking and accelerating, you move forward, pushing down harded youmove even more thinking the brakes are not working, or the Liberty has a mind of it's own. People who heard this from the Audi testing could not believe it, but it was true. Imagine hitting you child and finding out it was your own fault?

    Ifeel fairly sure that if you l;ook down and see how the angle of your foot is, it is quite possible your right foot is also touching the accelerator as well. Ifound this out myself, as it happened to me and my size 12 foot. Hope this helps.
  • badnessbadness Member Posts: 242
    :) Hey,all I can say is I hope you find out your problem,let me know if you find the prob.
    I've been hanging out hear ,I've been thinking about buying one my self,I don't wont the gas,beging that the price of gas is so much money on the east coast,how much is your price of gas by you.,
    I'm looking at the limited Diesel

    Brad,NJ,east coast.
  • russellsrussells Member Posts: 2
    found out what is was not at a dealer but tried the speed sensors unhooked them and then reconnect them most of the dash worked fine just the speedo was off to reset this hold the trip button down then turn the key to run the speedo will start to move and then reset itself easy fix not 507 plus labor
  • kwagner88kwagner88 Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2002 liberty 3.7 with about 47K miles on it. 95% of all my driving is highway, but I've recently ran into a string of stop & go backups and have noticed harsh shifting that may or may not have been there before (I say this because for the last year, I've done most of my driving in a 2003 caravan with very, very smooth shifting). I've noticed that during the moments when your traveling around 10 to 25 mph and then step on the gas (even lightly), the transmission seems to shift pretty harshly into a lower gear. At first I thought it was between 2nd and 3rd and at first, manually put the shifter into 2nd to avoid the jerking (which I'm certain the transfer case appreciated). The next day, more traffic issues and this time I tried turning off the OD and this also prevented the harsh shifting. I did not know that OD even came into play at such low speeds. So it seems that the problem is with the transmission coming out of over-drive. The transmission was serviced at 41K (just PM, no real reason). It seems to me that there is a problem here. Even if the harsh shifting doesn't hurt the transmission, it's can't be good for the transfer case, universal joints and other drive train components if it continued for long periods of time. Does anyone know if there is a software fix for the transmission? This would seem to be something that could easily be fixed in software. Is there anything I can have fixed to keep this from happening? I'm starting to believe that coming out of OD is also responsible for what many of us have experienced when slowing down to make a turn and hearing/feeling the transmission slamming into a lower gear.
  • kwagner88kwagner88 Member Posts: 18
    Does anyone know how to make the transmission reset/re-learn? I've heard of people resetting the trasmission somehow, but I don't know how it was done.
  • sethx9sethx9 Member Posts: 1
    With regards to the "Type 43" on the dash...I received the following today in my email as a reply from an inquiry to DC:

    ""Type 43" is just a designation for the instrument cluster in your vehicle. If the lettering appears to be illuminated, it may be caused by reflection or light bleeding through. However, it does not signify a fault in your vehicle."

    So there you go!
  • anza1anza1 Member Posts: 8
    Hi All!
    This message is in reply to "Tranny Issues" post #1586 & 87. Take a look back a couple dozen posts and you'll find lots on this issue. I've been fighting with my dealership service department on this issue since I got my 2005 Libby in December. It shifts down hard and often stutters on the upshift and/or upshifts prematurely. Coupled with this, it doesn't like to downshift on it's own, especially in cruise control. It will actually slow down about 10 MPH below the setpoint before it downshifts with a thud and then accelerates rapidly to catch up. The best advice I've seen so far is the discussion on "Flashing the Chip" or "TCM Flash" the dealer calls it. My KJ is in the shop right now getting this done. There was evidently new software created which helps this issue and i understand a recall was done, though I never received notice of a recall. I'll let you know if it seems to help.

    One thing I've noticed that helps in stop-n-go traffic is to turn off the overdrive switch. This will keep in in a lower gear automatically and seems to cause less down-shifting or premature upshifting.
    Hope this helps!
    Anza1
  • liberlimitedliberlimited Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for info. I wish others would have participated and helped me understand if this is some characteristic of this engine. Or maybe I got a lemon. I have 1400 miles on it at this point and seems to be same. You can only hear it at idle and it has to be quiet around the vehicle. The dealer says its a jeep you know. Other wise I love the vehicle. Thanks again. :sick: :lemon:
  • ajp3ajp3 Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2002 Jeep Liberty with the same problems. It goes to the dealer for every oil change and state inspection. It needed front rotors and brakes at about 34,000 miles and they did the ball joints because of a recall that we were never informed of and now at 40,000 it needs a new steering rack to the tune of $900 according to the dealer. Yet they didn't notice the "leaky rack" when they did the oil changes or front brakes. Is it the dealer..is it the Jeep...or a combination of both? We also still have about 2 years left to pay on it and it's going to start to nickle and dime us to death. Although $900 for a steering rack is hardly a nickle and dime problem.
This discussion has been closed.