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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • techimantechiman Member Posts: 3
    I have This exact same problem with my 02 Rend, we have been fighting with different dealerships over two years now trying to get a fix for this and gotten no where, we have replaced the fuel pump and computer etc I finely got smart and googled this problem but that has only led to me finding lots of posts about the exact same problem but no one has posted a solution for this. Is there a Fix?? BTW I now see I am not the only one to experiance the pain of the 02 Rend I have replaced the following on this :lemon:

    - wheel bearings x 4 (both front twice)
    - exaust Manafold X 2
    - Tranfer Case
    - Trasmission
    - drivers side eletric window thing because a tiny plastic clip broke
    - Exaust felx pipe and Catalic converter as they are all one piece
    - winshield wiper motor ($750)
    - rear Bezel (Closed the Hatch and it shattered in the cold)
    - 6 disc Changer melted down.
    - Fuel Pump (to try and fix the hot no start)
    - break Lines Rusted out in the firewall and left me with no breaks on the hwy
    - computer Module (to try and fix the hot no start)
    - Plugs (to try and fix the hot no start)
    - Some wire harness (to try and fix the hot no start)

    Please Please Please if anyone knows the Fix to this I will be a very happy Person! And it will be Much better for the envorment as I will be able to shut off my car when I make quick stops, I have even had to refuel my car with it running cause otherwise I know I will be waiting 1/2 an hour to restart it.
  • chuckie2chuckie2 Member Posts: 16
    although your vehicle is not stalling, make sure your dealer checks for contamination of the ignition relay contacts. contamination can cause you vehicle to experience stalls and/or no starts. below is recal info from NHTSA:GM RECALL NO. 05014. CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    I see this sometimes with ours also (pontiac version), I don't know of any official fix for it, but have found I get around it by holding key in start position a little longer (on the second try after start fails)
  • vwarrenvwarren Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem. I got stuck in traffic and the heater was blowing cold air. Once I was able to get moving, the air was warm again. The problem was low coolant which was eventually traced to a leak in the intake manifold. There was no obvious leak or puddles under the car. Mechanic was able to stop the leak temporarily, but eventually will cost $800 to replace the intake manifold.
  • samyunleesamyunlee Member Posts: 4
    I'm hearing this rattling noise underneath the car. It only happens when stepping on the gas pedal while the car is going. Does anyone have this problem? The dealer can't seem to find the problem.
  • 442455442455 Member Posts: 64
    Did they check the heat shield on the exhaust system? Where is the rattle? Front of car, middle, or rear? Does it only do it while being driven, or will it rattle if you step on the gas pedal while sitting still? If while sitting still, does it do it in only Drive, or also in park?

    Any work done on the suspension lately?
  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    I have a similar issue coming from the center line of the car just below the dash. Happens when the car is cruising along. Myself I think its just a heat shield. I will get GM to have a look at my next oil change. It is probably that.

    There was also a problem at one time when I got a very loud vibration noise from the front end of the car during acceleration (GM was unable to determine what this was) and it appeared to be allot of complaints around this. I think this turned out to be a loose exhaust manifold heat shield(broken bolts). This got repaired during head gasket replacement. Vibration did not return after this repair. It appears over torquing the exhaust manifold heat shield bolts at the factory lead to this problem (of loose exhaust manifold heat shields on 2002s) that according to my mechanic at GM who fixed the problem. So your noise could be that as well.

    Just some food for thought

    JP :D
  • corsair26corsair26 Member Posts: 1
    Have had the same "wandering mirror" problem along with a host of other issues. When I try and adjust the driver's side mirror up or down, it will adjust all the way up and I can't stop it. Or, when I push down, it goes all the way down and I can't stop it. I have to turn the car off and on again to get it to stop. The radio will also turn on and off randomly while I'm driving. The power seats only work sometimes (now they only work on a rare occasion). The rear driver's side window won't go down. The other day I was sitting in the car around 7pm at night, in Ohio, in May, and the outside temp. was reading 106 degrees! And, there's a strange vibration in the gas pedal that happens when I go from Park or Reverse into Drive. It feels like a rubbing but only happens once. Anyone having similiar problems? Just got the car 2 months ago, has 32k miles. Thanks!
  • lorenslorens Member Posts: 1
    I'm afraid--very afraid. I went out on Saturday to purchase a 2002 Rendezvous CXL that was listed on CarSoup at $7,995 with 77,000 miles. I expected some negatives but the windshield had a crack all across the lower part and it ran and drove really good. I've had buicks for 20 years and have had excellent luck with them. Maybe my string ran out because the next day when it got really warm we turned on the AC and it wasn't there. I called the glass company about replacing the windshield I've got heads up and antenna in the windshield $1,100 for the Glass plus labor. Took it in to see what the AC problem was. Front condensor had a hole in it. There was a puddle of coolant sitting under the intake manifold. Bad gasket. Fixing those two problems $1,200. Called the seller and he'll give me my money back but wouldn't help with the repairs. I took another look at NADA and other cars on sale and decided to go ahead and take the hit. Now I'm hoping I don't turn up with computer problems - electronics are good so far. But I'm wondering about bearings and hubs and Brake issues. Tonight I went out and googled the Rendezvous. Now I'm wishing I would have taken it back. But not after $1,200 in repairs.

    What do I look for on the wheel bearing hub problem. If they've been replaced can I expect more normal life expectancy. How about the new plenum gasket set I'm having installed. Have they solved this problem?
  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    My AC went down again (Had condenser replaced 2 years ago, current failure happened shortly after I had the head gaskets replaced....hmm interesting, but maybe just coincidence). Anyway it is probably the condenser. Someone mentioned at one time on this board about a steel one. I seem unable to locate to purchase one. All the ones I have encountered have been aluminium (price range 100 bucks to 150 dollars US compared to dealer 450 bucks). Anyway if someone knows where I can locate one would be great. Thanks

    James
  • jablonsajablonsa Member Posts: 13
    Well i think 8k is not too bad even with the repairs. i had to put in 3.5k of repairs into mine when i got at at that millage. i also paid more. anywho have the transmission fluids flushed. if there are metal fillings in the fluids your in a world of trouble. as for hubs. i had that break on me. basically when they break u hear a thumping noise when u accelerate and usually starts of quietly and than a week later you can really hear it. ya i had to fix my gasket as well and some rusted pipes that were a huge pain. But now that things have been fixed the car runs great. im still waiting on my tires. need them soon because im loosing about 35psi in the back tire every week. thank god for the tire pressure indicator. saved me once. good luck with the car. fix it up and take care of it.
  • cruzakcruzak Member Posts: 11
    Hey Guys need your help. Im planning to paint my brake hubs all four because of rust but I can't figure out from manual where should I place the jack. I know it sounds simple to you but Im just a man doesn't know anything about car basics. If possible can you show pictures of proper placement because can't understand some terminologies about car maintenance.
    Another thing, my previous oil change I shifted from conventional to full synthetic oil (Mobil 1). Then found out that there is another kind "Mobil 1 with extended performance" do you think that is more better synthetic oil? On my next scheduled oil change Im planning to put Mobil 1 with extended performance, and I have half quart left from my previous oil change. Is it okey to mix my remaining synthetic oil (Mobil 1) to the one with extended life performance formula?
  • intrepidcubintrepidcub Member Posts: 60
    it should be in your owners manual but in case here is the diagram. Just BE CAREFUL especially using the factory jack I recommend using jack stands though i never do but i can be an idiot sometimes :) the factory jack can tilt foward easily. USE YOUR PARKING BRAKE CHOCK YOUR WHEELS and dont get under it Whatsoever. if you get a floor jack you can use a center point to raise the entire front or back but not with the factory one. If ya need any other advise let me know oh to answer your question along the lower edge under the car in those spots on the diagram are cut out on a lil lip the jack is C shaped and goes in the lil lip per the diagram.

    JEff

    Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

    As far as the oil is this new oil synthetic or conventional? if your going to change it i htink its best to do it right away also how many miles are on your vous? regualr oil changes etc? i hear its not good to go to synthetic on a aged engine it can cause leaks. i tried to go synthetic on mine it had 48 and was recommended against but it should be fine changing oil next change.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    The title really says it all. If you wanted, you could mix a dino with synthetic, semi-synthetic with full synthetic, your M1 with M1 EP, mix brands, mix weights, it doesn't matter. They will blend together just fine.

    The question is, if you get too crazy, what weight of oil do you have?? That can sometimes take some math. Couple quarts of 0W-30, couple quarts of 10W-40 and you are probably around a 5W-35 but not necessarily because there are ranges of viscosities for each classification (30, 40, etc.).

    You can very safely mix the M1 with M1 EP. M1 is generally regarded as a 10k mile oil, the EP more like a 15k mile oil. I wouldn't push the concoction past 10k myself, but it will serve you just great.
  • wormburnerwormburner Member Posts: 14
    Okay, I'm annoyed.
    Last week Traction Control/ABS maintenance light came on. Dealer said ABS sensor in left/driver wheel hub was shot, and because it's one unit, hub needed to be replaced at cost of $530 Cdn. Done. Now, one week later, the same warning light is back on. What gives? I wont be able to go back to the dealer for another week now, and it appears I paid for a repair I didnt need. WHat could this be... BCM?
    Help Please. :cry:
    BTW... The light comes on when I make a sharp left hand turn at low speeds.
  • cruzakcruzak Member Posts: 11
    Thank you very much for all those advices, it helps me a lot. For the query you ask about my rendevz, mine is 23K '05 model and still under warranty. But today questions raising on my head again about the negative side of synthetic oils that they made engine leak, is it proven facts or just a myth?
  • intrepidcubintrepidcub Member Posts: 60
    you should be fine no leaks. synthetic oil is a thinner oil so on worn engines it can seep through the seals or worn enigne parts and leak out but yours should still be tight and seals still good to not have any problems.
  • intrepidcubintrepidcub Member Posts: 60
    Im learning that is a very common problem a friend of mine on the aztek club just spent 600 for his wheel bearing to be replaced and his ABS light is still on. i posted a long post on the diagnostic procedures but it comes up to WIRING, CONNECTIONS, your EBCM or the Instrument Cluster. Jsut look at it as preventative maintenance the wheel bearings will go out esp the 02 reason for the bearing warranty BTW i hope yours was over the 60K mark for free bearing replacemnt otherwise i would raise hell and get my money back> so your ahead of the wheel bearing failure.
  • psujobupsujobu Member Posts: 2
    Hey! I have a 2003 RDV and the exact same thing is currently happening to me. The dealer is ordering an EBCM, and is attempting to get GM to authorize the repair (i.e., free) after I spent about $600 on the (possibly needless) wheel hub replacement. The tech drove around with the computer, and it pretty much pointed at the EBCM (the sensor was actually reporting the correct info, although the computer reported it as faulty, thus pointing at the EBCM).

    The same tech also mentioned that he fixed an Aztec yesterday for pretty much the same problem. Sounds like a recall waiting to happen! Also sounds like we should all get refunds from GM on the pointless wheel hub repairs...
  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    2002 Buick. I am currently going to be installing my third condenser. The first failed and was covered under warranty. I learned a thing or two about condensers. First there appears to be no such thing as a steel one. All are aluminum manufactured. Second do not get your condenser through the dealership ($450 for rebuilt one - $540 to install). The rebuilt is taking your old one and repairing the cracking that occurs around the faulty wielding joints on the original GM equipped one or they sell you a repaired one (lasts 2 years and then needs replacing...awesome scam). I could not believe this when I went and purchased a brand new one (2 year warranty) with accumulator for 150 bucks with the wield joints garranteed not to break (better than OEM). It will cost me $400 to install and charge system. So please be aware about what the dealership is doing. It is much cheaper elsewhere and more reliable. If I had a new one put in when the first one failed (cost me nothing under warranty though), I would not be dealing with this again.

    However, I understand this happening on alot of GM vehicles (Montana`s, ventures, aztec and the like) replacing condensers

    James :sick:
  • intrepidcubintrepidcub Member Posts: 60
    mine was out when i test drove mine and it was a stipulation on buying it to fix the Ac the first time they charged it 2 weeks later it was dead so they replaced the condenser and 2 weeks later it exploded because they over charged it so the dealership gave up and sent it to a auto Air conditioning place and its worked like a charm since.
  • wormburnerwormburner Member Posts: 14
    Okay, you're not going to believe this. I took the RDV back in when the Traction control light came back on. The dealer now says the sensor in the Right-Front hub has also failed, and also needs to be repaired at a cost of $600 cdn. I told him forget it, I'll live with the busted traction control/ABS for now. If this is a EBCM issue, and we're being told to replace hubs for no reason, Buick better issue a recall - AND FAST! When you force customers to pay for unnecessary repairs, there's a legal term for that, and it ain't pretty.
  • jwlilljwlill Member Posts: 4
    This problem sounds similar to mine. However, an old-timer asked if I had any transmission work recently. As many of 02 RDV what answer - YES. It turns out the ground wire was not connected. By merely connecting the ground, the check engine light and O2 sensor error went away and most importantly the AC started working again! This was not a Buick repair center - mind you. The Buick guys wanted $3000 to fix everything, when in fact they may have caused it by not putting this back together when they replaced the transmission. Canada has class action suit going, if there is an attorney that is reading this - please file a suit. Now that everything is working (this week) I've parked the car and will trade in next weekend.
    Wish me luck! :lemon:
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    As intrepidcub mentioned, I wouldn't be suprised if the real problem is corrosion in the connector to the hub assembly causing false reading.
  • intrepidcubintrepidcub Member Posts: 60
    you jsut gotta be careful cause they will be more than willing to replace the wheel bearings and then say sorry if it doesnt get fixed but im sure corrosion is a big problem alot of the time i wish there was a way to jsut disable ABS uuuhg i treid pulling the fuse it drove perfect but 4 lights plus the shime constantly on
  • psujobupsujobu Member Posts: 2
    FWIW, our '03 RDV problem appears to have been fixed. They replaced the EBCM, but to no avail. Turned out to be a short in - or damage to - the EBCM wiring harness. Second time in the shop was covered by GM, so it was repaired for the cost of the initial (most likely unnecessary) wheel hub replacement. :)
  • marquemarcmarquemarc Member Posts: 2
    I've posted earlier (message in the high 1300's range) and I still have a low mileage 2002 RDV (now 33,000 mi.). Now the A/C condenser went. I was quoted $1158.00 for replacement.
    Well, I'm fortunately handy and able to read technical instructions - I will fix it myself. I found the condenser on the internet for $177.00 w/shipping or go to a dealer to see what they're asking for the part.
    I've already replaced the brake rotors and pads, since the squealing brakes were driving me nuts. I replaced the brake parts with high quality NAPA parts and now, brakes work excellent. I've also noticed some brake pad retainer "clips" were missing (prevents brake pads from moving around in bracket); bought some from the dealer and installed. I think those clips either get broken or whoever changes the brake pads previously, carelessly remove them. This might be critical to why the brakes prematurely wear out.
    After reading problems after problems in these forums, I find that things will get worse with my RDV.
    I familiar with the starting problems with short trips. But with my RDV, happens once in awhile. Usually, if it doesn't start the first time, I persistently hit the ignition again and hold momentarily until it starts.
    Yes, the RDV is a piece of crap. This isn't the first time a Buick has given me problems, anyone remember the 231 cu. in. V6 back in the 80's?
    The RDV on paper does seem like a sensible vehicle with its cargo space (reason I bought one) and reasonable gas mileage for a decent price. I paid $11,000 for the used 2002 RDV with 24,000 mi. What a deal! or what a deal?
    Well, since I learned on these forums, dealers won't give jack for trading in a RDV (very sad). I'm going to drive mine until the wheels fall off; hopefully, way after the hubs get replaced (something I have to look forward next).
    The other day, I was driving from the city and looked at a traffic jamb in the lanes on the other side to the city.
    I thought there was an accident, but no, it was some poor elderly man's RDV stopped running. I would assume it was one of those problems RDV owners are writing about. Fortunately, whatever the problem the man had with the RDV, didn't end up in an accident or worse, somebody getting hurt.
    ...with the low trade-in value, a lot of RDV's will start filling up junkyards in the future. So, I'll find the parts to fix mine (lol) :P ;)
  • jingles99jingles99 Member Posts: 14
    Hello, a couple of my bulbs in the rear center mount have burned out. I called a couple of local supply shops, including Pep Boys, and none of them know what bulb is required to replace it. Is this a sealed unit? Thanks for any help
  • mentalatticamentalattica Member Posts: 3
    Hello all,

    I recently purchased a 2005 Buick Rendezvous CX AWD in April of this year (it now has 44K), within the first month I noticed a Clank-Clank (two times) when I put the vehicle in Drive from Park, or Park to Reverse. From Drive to reverse it's Clank-Clank-Thump (clanks twice followed by a muffled thump) It's pretty loud and embarrassing. I did not get an extended warranty because I just don't have the financial resources to do so. I know that was stupid now. Well so far I've had to replace the front left hub ($450), brakes and rotors (I did those myself $180), transmission mount the repair was questionable to say the least ($178), engine mounts ($554) which I did not pay for because it was misdiagnosed (the clanking).

    So the last mechanic at a transmission shop said my Trans is fine, he pulled my driveshaft off and there's no clanking anymore. I knew the sound was coming from the rear of the half shaft (beside the muffler). I crawled under the vehicle last night and spun the rear shaft by hand and heard a lot of clanking and it felt loose. There are no U-joints on the shaft (that are visible). So I've been driving around the past few days without a driveshaft, but it makes me uneasy knowing how the versatrak system works. If it goes to send 30% to the rear, that's just lost torque and traction. I would think that is dangerous in a "slippery situation".

    I finally put the shaft back on myself, and nothing but clank-clank again. It's only when I put it into gear, not while driving and it's not a drivibility issue (yet). I can't find any parts for the shaft online or at the dealer, it looks like if it is the shaft the whole thing will have to be replaced ($652 part only). Anyone experience anything like this on a RDV or Aztek? Any idea's in general?
  • jablonsajablonsa Member Posts: 13
    Im no expert in cars but this sort of sounds a little like what i experienced. basically the solution to get the knock out was to engage the parking break before taking the foot off the breaks while parking. than when your ready to go simply start the car shift into drive and take off the parking break while pressing the usual breaks. essentially what your trying to do is not let the car roll while its in the park position. Someone a while back mentioned this problem as well but he never got back to tell me if this solved the embarrassing clank. by the way after a week of using the parking break it becomes second nature, it also increases car security.
  • mentalatticamentalattica Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the input. I also read that somewhere and have been using the parking brake every since. Your right it does become second nature, even though it hasn't cured the clank I still do it out of habbit now.
  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    Hi:

    I have several LEDs gone in my rear tail gate light as well. This is a sealed unit (since I took it off and had a look at it). In order to fix it, the whole unit needs to be replaced. The only thing I can figure is a junk yard or dealer. Let know how you fair out.

    JP:)
  • corvette1975corvette1975 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, we are having the same problem. The nose of our hood on our 2003 Rendezvous is bubbling, supposedly due to oxidization according to the GM rep. My wife was told they will take care of it, however we must pay half ($211.00) which doesn't sound like a very good deal to me.

    Any ideas on how to get them to do it for free?

    Jake
  • 442455442455 Member Posts: 64
    GM has a 100000 mile warranty for corrosion, when the corrosion works its way from the inside out. I had the hood of a 2001 Alero replaced at 97000 miles by a GM body shop, with no cost to me. I also had a hood of a 1988 Corsica replaced with no cost to me around 90000 miles. Both had corrosion which bubbled through, from the inside out at the front of the hood.

    You might check with a different dealer, or show them the warranty which is printed in your warranty book, or maybe even in your owner's manual.
  • toonzeetoonzee Member Posts: 19
    I called 2 different dealers, they both wanted $99.00 just for the light, not counting labor. I could not find an after market light for the Buick...Has anyone else
  • 442455442455 Member Posts: 64
    Go to the web site I have posted a link to, and search for "Third Brake Light". I have found some for as low as $20.00. This site searches salvage yards, and you can search different distances, or even make a request for parts.

    http://car-part.com/
  • nidgenidge Member Posts: 18
    Hello,
    I think that I can tell you about the noise in the glove compartment. When the filter was removed by the service people, they broke the latch that keeps the filter door tight and free of rattling. They broke it just like I broke mine. Now, Krazy Glue comes to thr rescue.
  • tahoebctahoebc Member Posts: 6
    So my battery died a couple month's ago, it had just enough power that all the lights were going kinda going crazy on the dash. For some reason while it was doing this I ejected a cd from the player.

    Once I put the new battery in every thing worked great, except the CD player still thinks there a CD in the number 2 slot, the other 5 slots still have CD's in them.

    When I try to play a CD It trys to play CD #2 but fails. If I try and eject, it works a bit then askes me to remove the CD which I cannot.
    Is there anything I can do besides taking it to the Dealership?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try some of the suggestions in the How to Remove a Stuck CD guide first. They are mostly geared to single CD players but you may get lucky (and they don't cost anything to try).
  • tahoebctahoebc Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the link, tried all that stuff already, guess the computer thinks the disk is in there, when I hit load, say's "CD Player Full" when I hit Eject, say's remove disk but there's nothing to remove. Tried sticking old cd's in there and jiggling them around while it says to remove disk. Tried disconnecting the battery, thing is just to smart for it's own good :(
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Too bad. It may be cheaper to go with an aftermarket replacement than go to the dealer, or at least get a quote from a local shop if you have one.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    I would think cutting the power would have reset the radio. The radio probably retains memory power for a bit.

    How long was the battery disconnected?

    I would either disconnect it overnight, or I think the better choice is to pull the fuse going to the radio for a day.
  • lindeezylindeezy Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002. The problem is the fuel gauge always reads full, no matter how much fuel is in the tank. It also drops to empty when the car idles for about five minutes. Does anyone have any logical explanations for this?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Usually its the fuel sending unit, could also be wiring issue.
  • tahoebctahoebc Member Posts: 6
    "How long was the battery disconnected? "

    Probably a couple hours, ever try to change a battery in one of these? a royal pain in the butt. I'll try taking the fuse out over night, thanks for the suggestion.
  • jacklin30jacklin30 Member Posts: 14
    Thank you for your reply. Actually, a dealership finally found that a screw was missing from the dash somewhere (after my numerous complaints that something was wrong). They replaced the screw and it's been perfect ever since. The oil change place did leave the filter door open because it wouldn't shut when they put the filter in backwards. But, luckily they didn't break it. So, all is quiet in the dash at the moment. Now, if I can just get the dealer to figure out why the back tires have cupped spots in them, I'll be happy for the moment. My dad suggested it was probably due to bad shocks or something so I have to have that checked now. So far nothing major has gone wrong, but these little things keep coming up.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Bad struts can cup tires, definitely. If you have a friend that can help you, each of you drive separately to a rough road. Have him drive behind/next to you, watching your rear wheel. If after hitting a bump, the wheel bounces a couple times (or more) your struts are bad. The wheel should take the "hit" of the bump/pothole and then settle right back against the pavement smoothly.

    Other people will suggest you look at the struts for signs of oil leakage or bounce that corner of the car, but those tests are sometimes tough to interpret. (is that oil, or dirt? is this corner not bouncing because the other corner is still good? is what i'm seeing considered a "bounce" etc etc)

    The drive test is pretty clear, either the strut keeps the tire against the road like it's supposed to or not. :)
  • jacklin30jacklin30 Member Posts: 14
    Thank you. We will definately try this to check the struts. That way I'll have a better idea what's wrong when I take it to the dealer. It's still under warranty so hopefully it's something that will be fixed under warranty. I sure hope so.
  • topcat13topcat13 Member Posts: 1
    My fuel gauge goes crazy when the fuel level gets low. It begins bouncing back up to 1/2 or full tank marks, then back down to lower level indicator. Have also had side mirrors constantly adjusting, and ABS seem to grab on a couple of occasions.

    Is this common and is it BCM or sending unit on fuel tank?
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