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- wheel bearings x 4 (both front twice)
- exaust Manafold X 2
- Tranfer Case
- Trasmission
- drivers side eletric window thing because a tiny plastic clip broke
- Exaust felx pipe and Catalic converter as they are all one piece
- winshield wiper motor ($750)
- rear Bezel (Closed the Hatch and it shattered in the cold)
- 6 disc Changer melted down.
- Fuel Pump (to try and fix the hot no start)
- break Lines Rusted out in the firewall and left me with no breaks on the hwy
- computer Module (to try and fix the hot no start)
- Plugs (to try and fix the hot no start)
- Some wire harness (to try and fix the hot no start)
Please Please Please if anyone knows the Fix to this I will be a very happy Person! And it will be Much better for the envorment as I will be able to shut off my car when I make quick stops, I have even had to refuel my car with it running cause otherwise I know I will be waiting 1/2 an hour to restart it.
Any work done on the suspension lately?
There was also a problem at one time when I got a very loud vibration noise from the front end of the car during acceleration (GM was unable to determine what this was) and it appeared to be allot of complaints around this. I think this turned out to be a loose exhaust manifold heat shield(broken bolts). This got repaired during head gasket replacement. Vibration did not return after this repair. It appears over torquing the exhaust manifold heat shield bolts at the factory lead to this problem (of loose exhaust manifold heat shields on 2002s) that according to my mechanic at GM who fixed the problem. So your noise could be that as well.
Just some food for thought
JP
What do I look for on the wheel bearing hub problem. If they've been replaced can I expect more normal life expectancy. How about the new plenum gasket set I'm having installed. Have they solved this problem?
James
http://www.innerauto.com/Featured_Items2/rendezvous/C0255/
http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?ye- ar=2003&make=BU&model=REND-CX-003&category=All&part=A/C%20Condenser&dp=true
Before buying, do contact each company to confirm their part is "steel".
Hope this helps...
.
Another thing, my previous oil change I shifted from conventional to full synthetic oil (Mobil 1). Then found out that there is another kind "Mobil 1 with extended performance" do you think that is more better synthetic oil? On my next scheduled oil change Im planning to put Mobil 1 with extended performance, and I have half quart left from my previous oil change. Is it okey to mix my remaining synthetic oil (Mobil 1) to the one with extended life performance formula?
JEff
As far as the oil is this new oil synthetic or conventional? if your going to change it i htink its best to do it right away also how many miles are on your vous? regualr oil changes etc? i hear its not good to go to synthetic on a aged engine it can cause leaks. i tried to go synthetic on mine it had 48 and was recommended against but it should be fine changing oil next change.
The question is, if you get too crazy, what weight of oil do you have?? That can sometimes take some math. Couple quarts of 0W-30, couple quarts of 10W-40 and you are probably around a 5W-35 but not necessarily because there are ranges of viscosities for each classification (30, 40, etc.).
You can very safely mix the M1 with M1 EP. M1 is generally regarded as a 10k mile oil, the EP more like a 15k mile oil. I wouldn't push the concoction past 10k myself, but it will serve you just great.
Last week Traction Control/ABS maintenance light came on. Dealer said ABS sensor in left/driver wheel hub was shot, and because it's one unit, hub needed to be replaced at cost of $530 Cdn. Done. Now, one week later, the same warning light is back on. What gives? I wont be able to go back to the dealer for another week now, and it appears I paid for a repair I didnt need. WHat could this be... BCM?
Help Please.
BTW... The light comes on when I make a sharp left hand turn at low speeds.
The same tech also mentioned that he fixed an Aztec yesterday for pretty much the same problem. Sounds like a recall waiting to happen! Also sounds like we should all get refunds from GM on the pointless wheel hub repairs...
However, I understand this happening on alot of GM vehicles (Montana`s, ventures, aztec and the like) replacing condensers
James :sick:
Wish me luck! :lemon:
Well, I'm fortunately handy and able to read technical instructions - I will fix it myself. I found the condenser on the internet for $177.00 w/shipping or go to a dealer to see what they're asking for the part.
I've already replaced the brake rotors and pads, since the squealing brakes were driving me nuts. I replaced the brake parts with high quality NAPA parts and now, brakes work excellent. I've also noticed some brake pad retainer "clips" were missing (prevents brake pads from moving around in bracket); bought some from the dealer and installed. I think those clips either get broken or whoever changes the brake pads previously, carelessly remove them. This might be critical to why the brakes prematurely wear out.
After reading problems after problems in these forums, I find that things will get worse with my RDV.
I familiar with the starting problems with short trips. But with my RDV, happens once in awhile. Usually, if it doesn't start the first time, I persistently hit the ignition again and hold momentarily until it starts.
Yes, the RDV is a piece of crap. This isn't the first time a Buick has given me problems, anyone remember the 231 cu. in. V6 back in the 80's?
The RDV on paper does seem like a sensible vehicle with its cargo space (reason I bought one) and reasonable gas mileage for a decent price. I paid $11,000 for the used 2002 RDV with 24,000 mi. What a deal! or what a deal?
Well, since I learned on these forums, dealers won't give jack for trading in a RDV (very sad). I'm going to drive mine until the wheels fall off; hopefully, way after the hubs get replaced (something I have to look forward next).
The other day, I was driving from the city and looked at a traffic jamb in the lanes on the other side to the city.
I thought there was an accident, but no, it was some poor elderly man's RDV stopped running. I would assume it was one of those problems RDV owners are writing about. Fortunately, whatever the problem the man had with the RDV, didn't end up in an accident or worse, somebody getting hurt.
...with the low trade-in value, a lot of RDV's will start filling up junkyards in the future. So, I'll find the parts to fix mine (lol) :P
I recently purchased a 2005 Buick Rendezvous CX AWD in April of this year (it now has 44K), within the first month I noticed a Clank-Clank (two times) when I put the vehicle in Drive from Park, or Park to Reverse. From Drive to reverse it's Clank-Clank-Thump (clanks twice followed by a muffled thump) It's pretty loud and embarrassing. I did not get an extended warranty because I just don't have the financial resources to do so. I know that was stupid now. Well so far I've had to replace the front left hub ($450), brakes and rotors (I did those myself $180), transmission mount the repair was questionable to say the least ($178), engine mounts ($554) which I did not pay for because it was misdiagnosed (the clanking).
So the last mechanic at a transmission shop said my Trans is fine, he pulled my driveshaft off and there's no clanking anymore. I knew the sound was coming from the rear of the half shaft (beside the muffler). I crawled under the vehicle last night and spun the rear shaft by hand and heard a lot of clanking and it felt loose. There are no U-joints on the shaft (that are visible). So I've been driving around the past few days without a driveshaft, but it makes me uneasy knowing how the versatrak system works. If it goes to send 30% to the rear, that's just lost torque and traction. I would think that is dangerous in a "slippery situation".
I finally put the shaft back on myself, and nothing but clank-clank again. It's only when I put it into gear, not while driving and it's not a drivibility issue (yet). I can't find any parts for the shaft online or at the dealer, it looks like if it is the shaft the whole thing will have to be replaced ($652 part only). Anyone experience anything like this on a RDV or Aztek? Any idea's in general?
I have several LEDs gone in my rear tail gate light as well. This is a sealed unit (since I took it off and had a look at it). In order to fix it, the whole unit needs to be replaced. The only thing I can figure is a junk yard or dealer. Let know how you fair out.
JP:)
Any ideas on how to get them to do it for free?
Jake
You might check with a different dealer, or show them the warranty which is printed in your warranty book, or maybe even in your owner's manual.
http://car-part.com/
I think that I can tell you about the noise in the glove compartment. When the filter was removed by the service people, they broke the latch that keeps the filter door tight and free of rattling. They broke it just like I broke mine. Now, Krazy Glue comes to thr rescue.
Once I put the new battery in every thing worked great, except the CD player still thinks there a CD in the number 2 slot, the other 5 slots still have CD's in them.
When I try to play a CD It trys to play CD #2 but fails. If I try and eject, it works a bit then askes me to remove the CD which I cannot.
Is there anything I can do besides taking it to the Dealership?
How long was the battery disconnected?
I would either disconnect it overnight, or I think the better choice is to pull the fuse going to the radio for a day.
Probably a couple hours, ever try to change a battery in one of these? a royal pain in the butt. I'll try taking the fuse out over night, thanks for the suggestion.
Other people will suggest you look at the struts for signs of oil leakage or bounce that corner of the car, but those tests are sometimes tough to interpret. (is that oil, or dirt? is this corner not bouncing because the other corner is still good? is what i'm seeing considered a "bounce" etc etc)
The drive test is pretty clear, either the strut keeps the tire against the road like it's supposed to or not.
Is this common and is it BCM or sending unit on fuel tank?