Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The fuel pump circuit gets routed through this connection. I would also check your fuel pressure regulator to make sure that is not faulty.
GM
Starting problems, various electrical gremlins. Drivers of some 200006 GM minivans (full list below) may come into your shop complaining of some really strange symptoms. Among the comments you might get is that the engine won't start, starts with difficulty or stalls. The starting troubles may be accompanied by an inoperative or out-of-whack fuel gauge. In addition, the MIL and the ABS and/or TCS warning lights may be illuminated. The TCS system may have a mind of its own, activating in dry conditions. Finally, Service Traction System and/or All-Wheel Drive Disable messages may be displayed on the dash. To put the icing on the cake, all these symptoms can come and go, leaving behind multiple DTCs in the process.
Veteran techs know that unrelated electrical gremlins like these usually have their origin in either one of two maladies: a bad ground or an intermittent connector. In this case, it's the latter-more specifically, connector C305. You can find this connector on the floor, just to the rear of the driver's seat. And what you'll probably see is that it's either corroded or has spread female terminals.
How you approach the repair depends on what you find. If the connector is corroded, water is getting into the vehicle from somewhere. Find and fix the leak first, then replace the connector. If there's no evidence of corrosion, GM warns not to try to repair the spread female terminals. Instead, replace them with parts from a terminal repair kit.
The following vehicles are susceptible to the starting and electrical problems described:
2000-04 Olds Silhouettes
2000-05 Chevy Ventures and Pontiac Montanas
2001-05 Pontiac Azteks
2002-06 Buick Rendezvous
2005-06 Buick Terrazas, Chevy Uplanders and Pontlac Montana SV6s
If you live in an area of the country where you drive in snow and the resulting salt useage, you are more prone to have problems with this connector, or depending on the way it was built, problems with the pulled wires.
Draining Procedure
Important: Do NOT add any engine coolant supplement sealant pellets to the cooling system. Drain and refill the engine cooling system every 5 years or 240 000 km, (150,000 ml) , whichever occurs first.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Remove and clean the coolant recovery reservoir. Caution: To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot. The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if radiator cap or surge tank cap its removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
3. Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cool:
3.1. Slowly rotate the cap counterclockwise to the detention tab. Do not press down while rotating pressure cap.
3.2. Wait until any residual pressure, indicated by a hissing sound, is relieved.
3.3. After all hissing stops, press down on the radiator cap and rotate the cap counterclockwise in order to remove the cap.
Important: Recover and store used coolant in a used coolant holding tank and submit the used coolant for recycling on a regular basis. Do NOT pour used coolant down the drain. Ethylene glycol antifreeze is very toxic. Disposing of ethylene glycol into the sewer system or ground water is both illegal and ecologically unsound.
4. Place a drain pan under the radiator drain cock in order to collect all of the used coolant.
5. Open the radiator drain cock. If only partial cooling system draining is required, drain enough coolant to perform the procedure.
6. Open the air bleed valve on the thermostat housing 2 full turns.
7. Open the air bleed valve above coolant pump 2 full turns.
8. Place a drain pan under the engine block drains in order to collect the used coolant. Important: Allow the coolant to drain completely.
9. Remove both of the engine block drains.
o The front left engine block drain is located between the starter motor and the engine oil filter.
o The rear right engine block drain is located near the crankshaft position sensor.
Filling Procedure
1. Reinstall the engine block drains.
2. Close the radiator drain cock.
3. Install the coolant recovery reservoir. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL(R) or HAVOLINE(R) DEX-COOL(R) coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOL(R) or HAVOLINE(R) DEX-COOL(R) is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner; at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
4. Slowly add a 50/50 mixture of GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL(R) or HAVOLINE(R) DEX-COOL(R) and clean, drinkable water to the radiator until the coolant level is at the base of the radiator fill neck.
5. Wait for 2 minutes and reinspect the level of the coolant in the radiator. If necessary, add coolant to the radiator until the coolant level is at the base of the radiator fill neck.
6. Install the radiator cap.
7. Ensure that the radiator cap arrow points toward the radiator overflow tube.
8. Close the air bleed valve above the coolant pump.Important: The air bleed valves are brass. Do NOT over-tighten the air bleed valves.
9. Close the air bleed valve on the thermostat housing.
10. Fill the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL(R) or HAVOLINE(R) DEX-COOL(R) and clean, drinkable water. Important: If the coolant temperature indicator turns ON, turn the engine OFF immediately and allow the engine to cool. Do NOT remove the radiator cap.
11. Start the engine and allow the engine cooling fan to cycle on and off 3 times.
12. Turn off the ignition. Caution: To avoid being, burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot. The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if radiator cap or surge tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
13. Allow the engine to Cool.
14. Ensure that the engine coolant concentration is sufficient.
Mr. Shiftright
VISITING HOST
06-04-114-001A MAY 06 Drivetrain - Moan/Groan Noise From Rear Differential
Now, here is a site that lists all the bulletins (don't panic when you see it!):
http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/82/038201gn.html
This is a list of the Buick Rendezvous bullitens. To actually see them, you have to pay a fee (which I have not done), but usually just seeing the title gives you an idea of whether or not Buick has seen your particular problem before. It amazes me that Buick dealer/service doesn't seem to have the initiative to look this stuff up themselves. I got an unneeded fuel pump too!
As you all , will soon find out (by the way i talk and type) I am new to this, Hell I mean I have never done any sort of "post" or Forum thingie!!! here goes
Stats- "02 BuicK Rend. CXL AWD-miles @150,000 (honestly)
Issues- Already done the intake BS, I have done brakes all the way around,of course tires, as well as regular maintance (I have done all except intake, i let a shop do it...i had no time, got in car, ran to FL from OH)
NOW- I have been through AWD DIsable/anit-lock brakes signal on dash, found out that,string ripped the wiring apart. was able to re-install the wiring, took care of issue!, (yesterday) HOWEVER- I have been hearing some nasty noise up front, driver side. some what of a gearing, grinding noise. I know that it is not the engine, I have took apart the front wheel Asm. the wheel bearing seems fine, no cracks in seal, no wobbles! I know that the faster the car goes the louder the noise gets! It seems to me that it has to be related to either the bearing, the CV shaft (which all good, not even a crack in them) maybe the rack-n-pion?? or maybe the gear box next to tranny? (frt gearing? it is full and the oil look good!)
I have been a damn good wrench at home. Fixed many cars, this issue is making me nuts, 'cause i can not locate the real issue, the shops around here, want too much just to "look at it"
any help wopuld be awesome!! ???
PLS!!
( I can say this, other then what i have said above, my wife has not had any other issue with the car, actaully she loves it. ride good, plenty of room, plus I can say, after going through the "forum" thingie, and reading so many issues that forks are having, or had, had before........I feel very lucky, and greatfull!)
Tanx
Tom
How about draining some oil from the transaxle and looking for debris?
As Mr Shifty eluded to, it can be difficult to diagnose from inside the cabin. Agin in my case when a rear bearing was having issues, the noise would be worse as speed increased in general. In addition the noise would go away (or lesson) ahen going over a bump (and load taken off) and would be MORE noticable when taking high speed turn (such as taking a tight exit ramp off highway)
thank you
as to what you mentioned, my noise, at first it did not come on till aprox. 25 mph...from the point, it would get a bit louder as the mph went up...all the way up! as of now, it comes on right from the start, (about5mph) and goes up from there acordly with mph. I can say that from about 50-80 the noise id about the same, LOUD! just maybe, a bit louder on the highr mph, but you can not tell that much diff..
thank you, as siad before, will have it up, and check the trans/axle fluids...TODAY! and get back to you all...
again, thank you.
I am actaully happy to see some fairly desent advise, from folks you just dont know. yes, i know that i should be more "in-tuned" with these computers/net...but to me, it is just not right. to spend so much time as i have heard of others doing on them, is actaully mind-numbing.
again, thank you.
I think that is a bit of stretch. We have 52 active discussions dedicated to the Rendezvous and fewer than half of those deal with specific problems. More importantly, those "problem" topics average far fewer than 10 postings each.
As to the frequency of postings in a vehicle specific maintenance and repair topic, that is much more a reflection of the relative number of people who own a particular make and model as well as how long the vehicle specific M&R discussion has been around. The Rendezvous M&R discussion has been around a VERY long time!
That is not to say that problems don't exist or that they aren't serious. It only means that it is not valid to make generalizations about a vehicle's reliability based solely on the number of threads in a Forum dedicated to discussing problems.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
like i have said, this is a hard one for me to grasp. I guess i need to break down and found a place to get it in, have them take a look. just hate that, becouse, for some reason, they tend to find things wrong that are not......been there, not doing again!
see ya
I am also a new owner of a used Buick RDV 2003.
I'm experiencing little problems... I'm wondering if you tell me all of the problems you encountered. I may have the same problems. First, the T/C light with a little wrench beside it lit in the middle of the dashboard. Second, the ABS light came on. Third, a light with a little truck with a wrench. Can you give me hints on what articles I can read to find my solutions?
Regards,
GUY
I now have it up on jacks, all apart....cleaned, and ready with new bearing hub....
my issue is this, what are the torq specs for the three bolts that hold the bearing on, as well as the huge "hub nut"....does anyone have this info,
Or can anyone give me a desent range to be in. I know old school always was, for the huge hub nut, was torq down good, then back off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.....
not to sure if that will work right on these, which are different!
any help is awesome
tanx
The three bolts should be replaced with new ones, since like the previous post mentioned, they are designed to stretch only once, that being the original installation of them. However, I have reused those bolts with no problem. They get torqued to 96 Ft Lbs (130-N-m).
The wheel hub locking nut gets torqued to 192 Ft Lbs (260 N-m). If you don't have a torque wrench that large, some auto part stores will "loan" you one if you leave a deposit which is refunded when you return the tool. Auto Zone or one of the large chain stores do that.
When you install the new wheel spindle nut, the two washers have a "ramped" side. They must face each other. Hope this helps.
Ok, so we have a new BCM to install, I have found the basic how to on removing the BCM but here is the problem. I cannot remove the fuse box that the BCM is attached to. Does anyone know how much of the console needs to be removed? I can't find a repair manual anywhere in town and we really need this car running again.
Thanks, Stephen.
To remove the Junction Block (fuse box):
1. Disconnect the BCM electrical connectors (3) at the top.
2. Disconnect the console accessory wiring junction block electrical connectors (2). Looks like they are held on with allen head bolts, it says when reinstalling bolts, finger tight first then tighten to 54 lb in.
3. Release the (2) retainers on the sides.
4. Finally, Remove the console accessory wiring junction block out of the bracket.
5. Now you should be able to access the retaining lever for the BCM. Looks like a little hockey stick.
Good luck, I have an 2002 cx I Just purchased (afraid after reading all these forums) and found the shop manuals on ebay. They seem like the will be extremely helpful. Just did a thermostat on it. Kind of a pain, manual says to remove exhaust manifold crossover (no way), i was able to get it without doing that.
Let me know if you need scans of the instructions and I can email it to ya.
Anthony
P0135
HEATER CKT MALF
BANK 1 SENSOR1
Any one know which sensor it's referring to and it's location?
Car seems to be working just fine.
Thanks
http://www.engine-light-help.com/buick-check-engine-light.html
http://www.engine-light-help.com/generic-check-engine-light-codes.html
My code:
P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - see our "articles" link for additional help with these generic check engine light codes
An even better link
http://www.obd-codes.com
P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - see our "articles" link for additional help with these generic check engine light codes
this code refers to the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. The heated circuit in the oxygen sensor decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0135.
you will likely notice poor fuel economythe illumination of the MIL.
Causes
A code P0135 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
O2 Heater element resistance is high
Internal short or open in the heater element
O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
open or short to ground in the wiring harness
Possible Solutions
Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors
Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)
Quite simply, Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine that has the #1 cylinder
Most of these repairs require a scan tool in order to set up the BCM after repairs. Sounds like a trip to the dealer unless your dome switch is in the ON position.
Window regulator. Happened to me when my 02 was only 1 yr old. was about a $300 repair @ dealer.
Anyway, I bought the car, and it didn't have an owner's manual. Today, getting it unstuck from snow, a light showed up that is like a little car/truck/SUV with a wrench on it. I'm looking everywhere trying to find out what the hell this means.
I've seen this before, but it always went away after restarting the car. I've restarted it three or four times since it appeared and it comes back every time. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
This is Service Engine light. Only way to determine exact cause of the problem is to visit a qualified auto shop, and they use a code reader. Could be anything from plugged pollution item to a bad sensor.
.