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Here's how the basic system works, to give you a better working knowledge of it:
HEATED SEAT OPERATION
The driver and front passenger seats are heated using electric heater elements with approximately 1 ohm of resistance each and are located in the lower seat cushions and seat backs. Voltage to the heater elements is controlled by the heated seat relay modules using inputs from the heated seat switches and the heated seat thermistors. The heated seat relay modules and thermistors are part of the lower seat cushion heater element assemblies. Ignition voltage is supplied to the heated seat switch assembly and is used to supply a signal voltage to the relay module and to illuminate the heated seat indicator during heated seat operation. Battery voltage is supplied to the relay module through a PTC device located in the seat harness which provides extra circuit protection. During heated seat operation the relay module switches the battery voltage supply circuit to the heater element supply circuit. The seat cushion and back heater elements are wired in series and always operate simultaneously. The seat temperature is regulated by the relay module using an input from the thermistor located in the seat cushion. The thermistor is a temperature sensitive variable resistor and the relay module determines the seat cushion temperature by monitoring the signal voltage supplied to the thermistor. When the desired seat temperature has been reached the relay module will open and close the supply voltage to the heater elements as necessary in order to maintain the seat temperature.
I wish you the best!
Cheers! :shades:
Exhausted.
The dealer then found that when the vehicle was cold from sitting in the parking lot, the light would stay ON. When the vehicle was brought into the shop and allowed to warm up, the light would stay OFF. The dealer noew says the problem is in the SDM. The mechanic told the owner (my daughter) that all the wiring harness were inspected and voltages were tested with the SDM unplugged from the wiring harness. No problems were found. He said he could not test for voltages and resistance with the harness connected. (I use quilting pins to reach into a plug or socket and get resistance readings with power OFF and voltages with power ON)
Questions:
1. Should the dealer be able to test and isolate the problem with a module, wiring harness/connectors or sensors without trial replacement of modules ($500 + for BCM & $700+ for SDM)?
2. Can the SDM (mounted under the driver's seat) be tested for temperature sensitivity by cycling from warm to cold with an ice pack and heat lamp?
3. Has anyone had this temperature related problem before?
Our 2007 has 38000 miles on it now and has been flawless. Drives beautifully, tons of room, quiet, good gas mileage. We love it and I wouldn't trade it for anything else out there. Our friends have a 2006 and they feel the same way.
Every brand has lemons, foreign and domestic, its important to do your research before buying. So you're one step ahead of everyone else buying blindly!
Dave
2. Probably a tire balance issue, but could be warped rotors as well if it mainly happens when you're applying the brakes.
3. Possibly one of your brakes is binding. Whoever did the last break job may not have properly lubricated the caliper slide points and now the brakes have overheated, warped the rotors, and fried the pads.
Sounds like the last owner (or his shop) didn't do proper maintenance. Get those brakes checked out and you'll be back to enjoying the ride.
After having so many problems with it, I made up in my mind to trade it off. I was confronted by several car dealerships about this thing, known for transmission going out (had my replaced last year) known for to many minor problems, but costly fixes, and most of all known for the motor locking up (thats why I don't own one now). Still owing on it, an spending more money to fix it then the note itself. I surrendered it back to its owner, gladly.
I have brought many lemons in my life time, this lemon was the only one that presented itself as a lime....then a trash bag. I too thought more of Buick then this. Next time (To: Buick Inc.) stop trying to be like the next man and just be the better man.... This was the worst invention you have ever made.... A ticking time bomb....
By the way. I just put Continental tires on and it's like driving a whole new car. Very good handling. :shades:
The speedometer stopped working at about 40,000 miles and still not.
Do you ever notice the engine idling poorly at a red light?
I think the hub diagnosis is correct for your first problem.
Brian
07 Rendezvous
I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me more information on your situation? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
I have a 2002 RDV that has an issue that for some reason can't get figured out... I am driving down the road and out of no where the car shuts off and the check gauges light comes on... all lights and radio are still working but the engine cuts off out of no where... I have taken it to so many mechanics since I bought it but they can't seem to find out whats wrong... I even took it to the Buick dealership and they said nothing is popping up on the computer... Transmission and engine are good, alternator is good, really weird, even passed emmissions, where i was hoping they might detect the problem. The only thing that really looks like needing attention is a tune up and I am praying that solves the issue, but i'm not sure and was really hoping I can get some input from anyone who has experienced this b4 or maybe even idea of what it could be? Buick service dept couldn't even find the issue. and now its gotten to the point where i can't even accelerate with out it sputtering and than shutting off now with check gauges light coming on... Its so weird, I just want to fix it because I really like my car, but i can even find what I need to fix... so weird!! lolz thanks so much for your feedback.
If the scanned doesn't communicate at all with the ECM, that suggests a computer problem or wiring problem
You might carry a can of starter fluid and when this cut-off happens, see if you can squirt some into the air cleaner intake. If the engine starts up again briefly, then that tells you that it was a fuel shut off issue.
Mariah GM Customer Service
That is obviously not normal. Hubs don't go bad every year. The earlier designs were prone to having problems, but not THAT often.
The bearings in these hubs are somewhat sensitive. Whatever shop/dealer is installing your hubs is probably placing pressure on the bearings and damaging them during install, causing premature failure. You should be demanding refund from your shop, and take it somewhere else where they know what they're doing.
My Rendezous has 40,000 miles and 0 hubs have been replaced.
Thanks
James
Option A - convert auto leveling system into manual system. See post of jpierce. Good "simple & low cost" idea on this method.
Option B - install 3rd party air compressor (under a passenger seat or in rear side panel) and install off/on manual buttons on the dash area. Or, install manual buttons inside glove box or center console area. Somewhere where items won't accidentally bump into them. Same idea many hot-rod folks install in their muscle cars - for their vehicle's air shocks.
Option C - Install Timbren SES units. If wondering, I installed Timbren SES unit's in my wife's mani van (that uses coil springs in its rear). If wondering, they replace factory bump stops and are an "install it and leave it" product. For our utility trailer towing needs, Timbrens SES units work great. They can be used in the RDV models as well. re: http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
For low cost and seldom need extra rear support, I'd go with option A. If you like "install it and leave it" upgrade, go with option B. And if into adjusting ride comfort for maximum enjoyment (regardless of vehicle loading), I'd go for option B. Then again, it depends on your technical install comfort levels as well..
Good luck...
.
I will not really know until I have a closer look underneath. I consider anything possible.
James
I am from GM Customer Service. Is your vehicle currently at the dealership? What is the VIN number? How many times have you had the vehicle in to be serviced at the dealership for the same concern? Can you please email me with the information? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
James
I am not sure if these are problems, but they were for me. I had the same issues.
At one point another mechanic at the shop where I take my car told me it was the steering column and was a common problem on the RDV. He told me a temporary measure was to fill the steering column with oil (200 bucks) and permanent solution was to replace the stirring column (costs several thousand). He told me its not a safety issue just annoying.
Has anyone come across this problem? And is it the stirring column. I hope its not the rackenpinun stirring (but I do not think so, the car tracks true and does not wonder)
James
2002 RDV AWD CXL
I had a similar annoying creak when accelerating or stopping. It was very difficult to find the cause (like most noises) but it turned out to be caused by one of the body struts that goes diagonally from the top of each fender well (1 bolt) to the top of the body part that goes over the radiator area (2 bolts). They are black tubes about 1-1/2" diameter that strenthen the front end of the body against torsional twisting. In my case it was the right side one that goes over the battery area and the two front bolts had been partially stripped out so I had to drill and tap for the next larger size. Totally and permanently fixed the problem for me.
Let me know what you find, and good luck! Nick
GM and my wife loves it, but this really has me stressed out since we don't have money for repairs.
The AWD disable lamp illuminates when one of the following conditions exists for 5 seconds:
* The PCM/TCM commands the solenoid ON and the voltage feedback remains high, B+.
* The PCM/TCM commands the solenoid OFF and the voltage feedback remains low, 0 volts. This condition is present for 3 key cycles
Action Taken When the All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Lamp Illuminates
* The PCM/TCM does not illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL).
* The PCM/TCM inhibits AWD.
* The PCM/TCM records the operating conditions when the Conditions for Setting the DTC are met. The PCM/TCM stores this information as Failure Records.
* The PCM/TCM stores the AWD disable fault in PCM/TCM history.
Conditions for Clearing the All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Disable Fault
* A scan tool can clear the fault.
* The PCM/TCM clears the fault from PCM/TCM history if the vehicle completes 40 warm-up cycles without a non-emission related diagnostic fault occurring.
* The PCM/TCM cancels the fault default actions when the fault no longer exists.
********************************************************************************- - ***************
Diagnostic Aids
An ABS DTC may cause the AWD Disabled light to illuminate. Check for ABS DTCs if no AWD fault is present.
Also if anyone interested the air compressor is still working on my car. It appears the hoses were all deteriorated, so I had some extra (tygon tubing from work) and things are working again. Also the shocks I am thinking of replacing monroe sells a pair for 90 bucks US MA826 direct OEM replacement comes with new air tubing and everything.
I apologize that you are experiencing this problem. Can you please email me so I can get more information from you to look into this further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Dave