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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    I checked thoses strut bars and the one on the driver side the two front bolts are stripped (darn mechanics), I am off to home depot to get some new bolts, I hope this solve some of the problem, however the odd clunking sound does worry me though (brake and acceleration), but if it has been happening for 3 years and nothing yet I am not going to worry about it too much (one mechanic said steering column another indicate it could be the drive shaft for AWD, due to the poor engineering around the drive shaft nuckle under the car), This could explan why RDV did not come with AWD in later model years.
  • nlt99nlt99 Member Posts: 9
    That was the same problem I had on mine, only it was the passenger side. Drilling and tapping and installing new, larger bolts took care of the problem for me... hope it does for you too. Let me know!

    Nick
  • anthonyefanthonyef Member Posts: 9
    I have tried to locate the email with the attachments but it has been so long I can not locate it. Sorry I do not have access to the documentation anymore either.
  • anthonyefanthonyef Member Posts: 9
    Are you sure it is coming from the front. The noise may be the rear bushings.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    I'll be doing a full front brake job on my 2007 Rendezvous. Can someone that has a shop manual please check what the torque figures are for the caliper mounting bracket and also for the caliper slide pins? If you're already looking and happen to see the bleeder screw value i'll take that too - might as well be exact. :)
    Thank you!
    Brian
  • nlt99nlt99 Member Posts: 9
    Don't have info for 2007, but for 2005 (from GM manual)

    - Caliper pin bolts: Loctite & 26 ft-lbs
    - Caliper-to-bracket bolts: 40 ft-lbs
    - Bracket mtg bolts: Loctite & 137 ft-lbs
    - Brake hose to caliper bolt: 40 ft-lbs

    Have fun! Nick
  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    Looks like this creaking sound is and was caused by these stripped bolts on the fender bars. I tightened up and replaced some of the bolts and behold the creaky noise and clunk sound I have been living with for 3 years is all but gone. Thank god

    I am happy now

    James
  • nlt99nlt99 Member Posts: 9
    Happy that solved your problem James.... I know how irritating that noise is (was)! Glad I was able to help

    Nick
  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    Hi Everyone. Well after driving the RDV for awhile with a right rear spring broken (in the mount, so the spring was not really affected), I was able to get a couple of springs for 100 bucks, however my mechanic tells me that my RDV will require a wheel alignment after they are installed. I am not so sure if the wheel alignment is required. Anyone done the rear springs and was a wheel alignment involved ?

    Thanks

    James
  • financierfinancier Member Posts: 2
    Thats funny. I have a GM bike rack, it is a 1 3/8" and the car is 2". I had to buy the adapter to make the receiver smaller. It is light weight and only extends about 3" My problem is I lost the pin that goes into the lock and receiver. I can not find who makes the lock for GM so I could replace it. GM wants me to buy a whole new lock for the missing pin at $60
  • chromerechromere Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Rendezvous. For the last year, when I am driving at a low speed and making a turn (like when driving in a parking lot or making turns in a subdivision, etc.), I get a moaning/groaning sound from the front end. Any suggestions as to what it might be? Dealer service station wants to charge me $90 just to diagnose the problem.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Only in one direction, or both?

    If only one direction, or at least it's much worse in one direction, then its a front wheel bearing. If you're turning left and hear the noise, it's your right (passenger side) front wheel bearing. If you're turning right when you hear the noise, it's the driver's side. This is because of weight transfer to the opposite side of the car from the turn direction.

    Any reputable shop should be willing to subtract their diagnosis fee from the repair cost. Call around and ask for a front wheel bearing job.

    Brian
    2007 Rendezvous
  • happygirl3happygirl3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Rendevous and it has been at the mechanics 4 times in 4 weeks. They cannot find the problem. A chiming starts and the open hatch ajar and the door ajar and the service vehcile soon lights continue to rotate on. It does not stop if I shut the car down and restart. I actually get a headache listening to it the whole time I am driving it. When the car goes to the mechanic, it doesnt do it. One time it did start chiming and he hooked up the computer and it didn't display a problem. Can anyone tell me what is wrong?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Sounds like an issue involving the BCM. Do you have a sunroof, and is it leaking? That could cause problems if the water tracks just the right way. How is the battery condition and connection to underhood fues box (the electronics can be sensitive to voltage)? Potentialy it could be wiring to BCM or the BCM itself may be bad.
  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    If your vehicle is AWD it can also cause a groaning sound when turning left or right at slow speeds (only happens when parking or pulling out, turning sharply at the max), it can be very loud and annoying. My 2002 RDV has been doing this from day one. Some people say change rear axle fluid, which I have and does nothing. I was told by my mechanic it is just inherent to the RDV to do this. So I live with it. AWD seems to work fine other than this noise at very slow and very tight turns. If you have a baring issue take the car for drive on straight road and lightly turn the car left and right. If baring is gone there is usally a slight moaning noise but upon turning the car left and right the noise should change in tone or go away. If you observe this then a baring is gone. You can purchase them off ebay for around 40 bucks plus shipping (cheap off shore stuff) or purchase more conventional ones for 250 bucks or higher. I did the off shore and seems to work fine, over a year and still working, total in stalled with tax out the door 160 bucks.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    I don't think the moan/groan should be considered a inherent thing. If the refill of fluid was done with proper procedure it should have gone away unless there is a mechanical issue with it.
  • jpiercejpierce Member Posts: 49
    edited July 2010
    Unfortunately in this case I was informed by GM it was an inherent sound associated with AWD when turnning very tightly. It has to due with how the AWD system works (wheel speed, grip in tight turns, the system has a hard time associating which wheel should get traction, therefore the noise). In this case you maybe right as it is mechanical issue associated with poor engineering. With that all said my RDV is 9 years old and has had no issues as of yet with AWD except this odd noise once in awhile in tight turns. Rear differential fuild has been changed 3 times over the 9 years. (Knock on Wood :)) Maybe in later Model years they eliminated this sound.
  • happygirl3happygirl3 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for that idea. Where is the BCM? I found the BCM fuse. I'm assuming thats not what you were talking about. I check all fused to be sure. How would you replace the BCM?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    The BCM is in the console area underneath the cover/shifter. If you do end up replacing it you would have to get it programmed by dealer at some point to keep things working correctly. Just another thought, you could try removng the BCM fuse ( #28 in underhood fuse box I believe) for about 30 secs and then put it back in and see if it makes any differance (could be temp fix)
  • yuli1yuli1 Member Posts: 4
    I have 2006 Buick Rdvz with 85000 km on it. Never had any problems until couple of days ago when it did not start quite a few times. Finally I was able to start it but today I noticed the engine sign is on ( not the one "service engine soon" but simply a picture of the engine - I have a canadian version. Can somebody help me before taking it to service.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    could be a number of things. Here in the states there are parts stores that will scan for error codes (and suggestions to fix) for free.
  • gofalconsgofalcons Member Posts: 13
    edited July 2010
    the problem is in the rear axle. The fluid needs to be changed. A mechanic friend made me a copy of the bulletin dated May 8, 2006. in short here is what you need to do.

    1. Drain the rear differential fluid. Then refill.
    2. Drive for 20 minutes( or few days like i did). then perform following manuevers:
    drive a tight RH circle for 5minutes. Drive a tight LH circle for 5 minutes. Repeat both again.
    3. Drain and refill fluid again.

    The noise should disappear. I remember seeing somewhere on the internet a forum for the Pontiac Aztek, someone actually printed this bulletin out. Maybe it was this site, not sure. Fluid is expensive, $30 bottle, i needed 7 total. (my buddy got it for me at cost though)

    by the way, i own 2005 AWD Rendezvous

    all these manuevers must be done. it is the only way to activate the rear axle clutch packs and pump the new fluid through the system. The system design will not activate the clutches when driving in a straight line, only a wheel speed difference between the two rear wheels will activate the georotor pump and flush the clutch packs.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Thanks for posting the procedure, I'm usually to lazy to type the whole thing out and just refer to it as the 'proper procedure' . I remember at least one case where dealer did not follow it and of course problem wasn't corrected.
  • rjewhallerrjewhaller Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous, today it started beeping...it sounds as if its coming from the little round speaker inside of drivers door up by the dash. Have you found out what it is from?
  • rjewhallerrjewhaller Member Posts: 2
    The beeping noise just started, and it is very random. It is coming from the drivers door little round speaker . Any suggestions?
  • bostonterrierbostonterrier Member Posts: 17
    Does it sound sort of like Morse code? If so, it could be picking up either your cell phone pinging off a tower (cell phones "check-in" all the time even if you aren't using them) or someone nearby is using a walkie-talkie and its picking that up. I've had this before with my previous phone and its been the cell phone doing it as it goes from from one tower to another. It doesn't always happen and may only be a particular phone and not all of them. Hope this helps!
  • rvrsdrvrsd Member Posts: 9
    edited August 2010
    just bought a used 02 Buick Rendezvous with only 48K milage. For some reason after 2 days of using this SUV I get a “Service Engine Soon”. I also noticed there’s a “Check Gage” message when I try to start the car. I'm not sure if its the coolant gage or the fuel gage. The temp. gage stays a little over the middle and the fuel gage is about the middle. I need to check if it stays in the same spot after going back home (about 15 miles). Thanks in advance.
  • bostonterrierbostonterrier Member Posts: 17
    The "service engine soon" light (along with a bunch of others) comes on whenever you put the key in and turn it. It should go out when you actually turn it further and start the engine...this is just to let you know that they are in working order. If it stays on, get it checked out ( it doesn't always mean something major).
    As far as I know , "check gages" will come on when you start the car if your emergency brake is engaged. Do you park with the brake engaged? "Check gages" can otherwise refer to a bunch of things - but does not refer to the fuel gauge. Could be low oil, coolant, or brake fluid. If none of these...then maybe its electrical (I'm not sure about this one!).
    Hope this helps a little!!
    ps I have a 2003 with 60,000 miles on it and, other than low gas mileage, I love it still after 7 years of faithful service!
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Its typical and normal for the lights to go on as your starting vehicle, It sounds like the service engine soon stay on? If that the case the most common cause is loose/misaligned fuel cap. To correct (if that's it) just take cap off and back on and drive it for a few days and light should go out.
  • rvrsdrvrsd Member Posts: 9
    I just noticed that the "Check Gages" (winshield message) displays when I just put the key and turn it to Accessory only, once I start engine it disappears. The Service Engine soon stays on though. It might have to do with the fuel cap, b/c a night before I put some gas on it. I had already made an appointment with the dealer. Thanks for your help.
  • rvrsdrvrsd Member Posts: 9
    I put some gas a night before I noticed the "service engine soon". I will check that out tonight. Btw, I bought a carMD I hope this device can detect those little things as well. Thanks for your assistance guys! :)
  • cassandrajcassandraj Member Posts: 16
    You can also get this Service Engine soon message when you are due for an oil change and you have not updated the function buttons left of the steering wheel after you have changed your oil. Be sure to reset this if you have changed your oil recently. If not, check to see if you need to do so. Also, this Service Engine soon warning comes on when you are due to have your Rendezvous services at 30K, 60K, 90K. You may want to check your manual. I hope this helps. Been through this one before.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    > It might have to do with the fuel cap, b/c a night before I put some gas on it. I had already made an appointment with the dealer. Thanks for your help.

    Check the rubber o-ring around the gas cap and use a rough cloth to clean the inside of the gas filler tube where the o-ring meets. Put some petroleum jelly on it to improve the seal if you find roughness.

    The pressure test that the system does to insure the integrity of the fuel system against air leaks is done when the engine is luke warm and restarted AND when the gas gauge is in the middle 1/2. I suspect that is true of your Rendezvous like it is for my 98 leSabre. The coolant temp had to be something like 130-170 and the fuel level 1/4-3/4. Then it does the recheck. If you just filled your tank full, it won't do a recheck until the level of the gasoline is lower.

    Personally I'd hold off on the visit to the dealer. I'd see if the light resets itself whenever it does a system leak recheck.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • rvrsdrvrsd Member Posts: 9
    UPDATE: I took it back to the dealer. PO 410, Air Pump not working properly. They replaced it at no cost since I had just bought days before this happened.

  • rvrsdrvrsd Member Posts: 9
    Hello guys,
    Yes, Saturday morning after I picked up my car from the service dept. I felt the break pedal vibrate several times when I tried to stop. It happened several times on Saturday. I drove it on Sunday and I didnt feel anything. Today, when I was moving it out of the driveway I felt it again. After that...nothing.... until later on when I was about 5 blocks away from the dealership it happened again. The RVD stops without a problem but I dont like the vibrations on the break pedal. A friend told me that this may have to do with the ABS breaks... I dont know but once I found out from the dealer I will let you guys know. If anyone has any knowledge about this, I will appreciate if you can share your experience with us. Thanks :shades:
  • rvrsdrvrsd Member Posts: 9
    The dealer found ABS pump is pre-applying however data does not show which wheel is affected. They told me to come back when the ABS light comes on :cry:
  • cassandrajcassandraj Member Posts: 16
    Need some help. My driver side heated seat had a hot spot; then my husband drove my car with the heated seat on and the heated seat started overheating and gave off a terrible smell. It took us a while to figure out if the smell was something burning outside or inside the car. No smoke, just awful fumes.
    Evidentially the heated seat function is now burnt up. Does anyone have any advise on what to replace and if this is something we could do ourselves?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Most likely it will be a burned spot where the wire burned into two at that point. The extra heat caused the foam in which it's encased to melt and stink.

    Owners with H-bodies (Bonnevilles and leSabres) have unclipped the leather cover off the seat and separated the layers and found the broken spot. They then use copper braid that absorbs hot solder for electrical work to replace the broken spot and give it extra room and flexibility. Solder the old wires to the ends of the new piece, embed it in something to hold it in place and protect it from direct bending, and you're on the hotseat again!

    Many find the break occurs where there's a spot of silicone or some glue that holds the beginning of the heater wire or a thermal protector. The solid connections causing bending and pulling as we sit on the seat.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmm....never tried replacing one. I see two obstacles to a DIY routine here---one, you'd have to feel confident as an upholsterer---taking the seat out and removing the fabric using the various clips and clamps.

    Then you'd have to find a replacement heater element, which I suspect would be a special order item.

    If I were in your shoes, I might do a partial DIY---take the seat out, bring it to an upholstery shop (having pre-arranged the order of the heating element before removing the seat) and let them do that part, so that it looks nice and you don't damage anything.

    I don't think you could switch seats (that would be nice, but...) however, you might be able to use the passenger heating element, if the part #s are the same and a replacement is either not available or outrageously expensive.
  • bostonterrierbostonterrier Member Posts: 17
    When I had a seat heater go out on my Oldsmobile Silhouette, the dealer simply replaced the whole seat. If you have a scrapyard in your area, you could check it out for a replacement seat.
  • ccrapeccrape Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm new to the forum but it looks like the problems I am currently experiencing out of my 2005 buick rdv (91k) are somewhat common. I'm experiencing the whining noise from rear end. I've replaced one of the hub assemblies (both were bad, just couldn't afford to do both), flushed/filled tranny and rear diff. I'm also experiencing acceleration issues and have had the car checked out by two dealerships and they both say that fixing the hub assemblies will rectify the situation (no tranny issues were detected). I'm not a mechanic but when I describe the situation neither dealership accepted my offer to ride along in the car so I could reproduce the issue. It just seems hard to believe that a faulty hub assembly would cause the engine to lose power. Another user reported that after replacing the catalytic converter the acceleration issue went away.

    I wanted to know from the gm customer service rep (or anyone else), what's the best way to verify the catalytic converter is good or bad.
  • swimswanswimswan Member Posts: 4
    This has probably been asked before, but my AWD disable light has been on for over a year now, I brought it in once and said it really wouldn't affect my driving at all, so I never had it fixed, but does anyone know what exactly what might be wrong and should I get it fixed? thanks
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Ccrape,
    I apologize but I am not a service technician and cannot tell you why the converter is bad or going bad. If two different dealerships did tell you the hub assemblies would fix the concern then I would go with that. If you have any further questions please let me know. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • jingles99jingles99 Member Posts: 14
    Usually with the cat going bad, the check engine light will come on. Mine went, but it really took a while for the light to come on. It would run fine while the engine was cold, but once the temp approached normal, lousy pickup, etc. There are tests to determine if it is the cat, before the light comes on. Usually a pressure test, temp test of the cat, etc can determine if its bad. That is expensive to replace. About $700. I would not take it to the dealer for the testing. Take it to a trusted garage. Also by federal law, the warranty on the cat is 8 years, and I think 80000 miles. It is covered at no cost to you
  • fairerpinkfairerpink Member Posts: 4
    The code is my title. Probable Causes include: Sensor using 5 volt reference line shorted to ground or Circuit short to ground. Could anyone please describe this is laymans terms. What is wrong with my car? What area? My boyfriend can fix it if he knows the exact problem. My car will rev to 4000 rpms before it shifts and if I put it in drive it will accelerate on its own. Someone please explain this to me so I don't have to pay 110 just to put it on the computer at a dealership!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Year please? FWD or AWD?
  • fairerpinkfairerpink Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 awd.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
    The PCM uses the 5-volt reference 1 circuit as a sensor feed to the following sensors:
    The TP sensor
    The MAP sensor
    The EGR valve pintle position sensor
    The fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor
    The PCM monitors the voltage on the 5-volt reference 1 circuit. If the voltage is out of tolerance, the PCM will set DTC P1635.

    CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC
    The engine is running.

    CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
    The PCM detects a voltage out of tolerance condition on the 5-volt reference 1 circuit.
    The above condition is present for longer than 10 seconds .
    ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS
    The PCM will illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) during the second consecutive trip in which the diagnostic test has been run and failed.
    The PCM will store conditions which were present when the DTC set as Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.
    CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC
    The PCM will turn OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) during the third consecutive trip in which the diagnostic has run and passed.
    The history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles have occurred without a malfunction.
    The DTC can be cleared by using a scan tool.

    So there are procedures/tests for this, which require the appropriate diagnostic equipment, and depending on results any one of the above listed components could be the culprit. If you're "lucky", it'll be one of the sensors or the EGR valve. If you aren't, it'll be the PCM--which would have to be re-programmed after it is installed.

    Or you can just start guessing and replace each component one by one. In either event, you'll have to clear the trouble code.
  • fairerpinkfairerpink Member Posts: 4
    Thank you so much!! We are going to replace each component one by one. I don't so much worry about the trouble code as long as the actual trouble stops! I do appreciate your very thorough answer.
  • fairerpinkfairerpink Member Posts: 4
    Update: My fiance replaced the throttle sensor to no success. I drove my vehicle today and unfortunately had a massive transmission meltdown. I pulled into my local grocery store to a smoking front end and a pool of transmission fluid under my vehicle. Luckily he fixed what appeared to be poor factory work.
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