Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

14445474950

Comments

  • fandbpestfandbpest Member Posts: 5
    I'm starting to have a problem with the brakes on my 04 FWD rendezvous. When i take a slow turn, like turning into a parking spot or onto my street, it feels like the ABS is coming on. It has happened once when coming to a straight stop at a light. The cement is dry and it only happens occasionally. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this? Thanks
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Let's see if we can't narrow it down first.

    Find an empty parking lot. Do the low speed turn to recreate the noise. Now, VERY carefully, accelerate back up to 20mph or so, take your foot off the gas and put the shifter into neutral (making sure you don't go into R or P). Then bring the car to a stop in the exact same way that caused the noise.

    The reason to do this is to disconnect most of the drivetrain from the wheels during the stop. If you still get the noise, it is probably brake or bearing related.

    Do you have any warning lights on? If ABS was malfunctioning I would expect an ABS light.

    Do you feel any pulsation in the brake pedal when this is happening or is there only a stuttering feel in how the car stops?
  • fandbpestfandbpest Member Posts: 5
    I'll have to do the parking lot test tomorrow. But I do feel pulsation in the brake pedal when this is happening. It's the same feeling as if i were trying to stop in snow and the ABS came on. The ABS light has not come on and i thought that would come on if the problem was with the ABS.
  • mkp53081mkp53081 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Buick Rendezvous CX. I just noticed yesterday that it is making a squeaking sound from the right front, but only when the wheels are rolling. It almost sounds like a metallic shaking sound, almost like the sound a salt shaker makes when shaking salt out. That's the best way for me to describe it. The sound stops as soon as the car comes to a complete stop. I have also noticed that the sound changes a bit when I apply the brakes and it doesn't make the sound when I make a right turn. I searched all night last night trying to find a solution to the noise but didn't see anything that was caught my eye. So far I've read it could be a wheel bearing, CV joint, or the brakes indicating excessive wear. Thinking more like a wheel bearing?? What do you think? I'm desperate to get this thing fixed before I have to travel out of state next weekend. Thanks!
    ==-Kate-==
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    The brake wear sensor metal tab can cause a sound like what I think you're describing. And it disappears when brake pads are applied. It also will change when turning because of a little bit of movement in the wheel bearing affecting the contact between the pad and the rotor.

    Let's hope for the easiest.

    How many miles on this vehicle?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • wes612wes612 Member Posts: 1
    My girl has a 2003 Buick Rendezvous and the ABS light has been on for a year due to the $4,500 cost of repair. Don't know if that's related to this new problem, but a Sat. she noticed a change in her vehicle. It isn't as responsive as before. Acceleration is sluggish as if under a load or driving with parking brake on. Seems to shift through the gears fine according to the mechanic who looked at it. 4 Diagnostic codes given are: ABS right rear sensor, engine oil pressure swith circuit, and ECM and BCM losing connection intermittently. Any ideas about this one? Thanks for your time.
  • cherylw49cherylw49 Member Posts: 1
    which fuse controls the cigarette lighters?
  • nlt99nlt99 Member Posts: 9
    Hi Cheryl!

    Fuse 32 in the main fusebox under the hood.... a 20 Amp fuse. See the picture below (note arrows)

    image

    Nick">
  • davepjnydavepjny Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like your caliper, which is extremely dangerous. I had this happen to me. Had a break job done, then heard the noise from front right wheel only when slowing down. Well, the caliper came off while I was slowing down and the car stopped right there while doing about 10MPH. Could have killed me.
  • lschlagellschlagel Member Posts: 1
    Own a 03 buick rendevous, took key out and alarm went off, couldnt get it to stop with remote or by putting key back in egnition. finally stopped but now wheel if locked and cant get it to start!
  • dexterstuffinsdexterstuffins Member Posts: 1
    Hi, just wanted to get some feedback on my 2006 Buick Rendezvous Fan / Blower motor problem. I will list in detail what I tried so far.

    1. Last week the blower fan died speeds 1-5 and I saw the fuse was blown. I went to the store & got some new 25A fuses, put one in and the fan started to work again but only on speed 5.
    2. I googled this information and read it might be the blower motor resistor, I got the part for $35 from autozone and watched a youtube video of changing this on a chevy, so I did it myself. (the old resistor was discolored & actaully could see a soldered connection on the metal part was melted off.)
    3. After the new blower motor resistor was installed, putting the blower back in etc., I put a new fuse in & started the car. As soon as I went to fan speed 1 the fuse blew in the car. I made sure the A/C was off. I put another fuse in and started the car with the fan on speed 5. it ran and as soon as I changed the speed to 4, the fuse blew again.
    4. I looked up more online and though maybe the blower motor itself was bad.
    I disconnected the blower motor connection, and I could turn the AC off and on, or any dial position speed w/o the fuse blowing, so now I thought it was the blower motor.
    I bought a new one for $92 at autozone and decided to hook it up to the connection, holding it under the dash w/o installing it and started the car. As soon as turning the fan to speed 1, the fuse blew again.

    SO.....at this point I am at a loss. I was hoping changing these parts would correct the problem, but it hasn't. I am not an electrician, so don't know how to diagnose wire problems.

    Before heading to the mechanic I was hoping to get some advice on this, from anyone who knows. :confuse:
    Thanks!!
  • smag73smag73 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having issues with my 2006 Rendezvous that the dealership has been unable to solve. The gas cap light was coming on intermittently, and then the service engine soon lamp came on. Took it to the dealership, code came up for some kind of vapor leak, so they replaced the gas cap. A few days later the light came on again. Car went back to the dealership, but they say no code is coming up for it now.

    In addition, I have an intermittent problem, especially when accelerating, where the battery light will come on, all of the alert lights on the dashboard will flash off & on and it will make a dinging noise for a few seconds. Then the AWD disable lamp comes on. Sometimes it will go back off when I come to a complete stop, but not always. Sometimes the battery light will alternate a few times with the ADW disable light before it stays on the AWD disable light.

    Recently, my battery also died when I left the radio on for an hour or two. Previsouly I've done this with no problem (we have a drive-in movie theater nearby where the sound is broadcast over the radio, and we've watched movies there in this vehicle with no battery problems). I was able to get it jump started.

    The delaership was unable to come up with anything for any of these issues. They did fix a loose battery cablewhen I had it back in the shop the other day, but did not find anything else. Within a day or two the gas cap lamp was back on (not constantly, it comes & goes) and the service engine soon light is back on. When getting on the highway earlier today, it also did the lights flashing / dinging, battery light, then AWD disable light thing again.

    I'm getting frustrated - there has to be a cause to all of this. Any ideas?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Nice variety of troubles you have there :confuse: . Could be very difficult to diagnois. I would tend to lean towards battery /charging system issue for the general alert lights. Perhaps there is still a cable problem (if it starts and generaly runs ok I would check the fat cable that goes from battery to fuse box). Perhaps the battery is on its way out or perhaps the alternater is having intermitent issues. A rather long term charging system check may find that. The AWD disabled and gas cap could be due to the electrical system issue or potentialy an issue with c305 connector ( a pass through connector the deals with a bunch of stuff towards the rear of vehicle).
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    How old is your battery? I'd replace it.

    A weak battery can drop voltage enough and the various computers quit operating at a voltage too low.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mlmblondemlmblonde Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Buick RVD with 48K miles on it. I found this forum as I was looking at cars to decide what I want to get next. I feel truly blessed after reading all the issues here,

    I've had NO problems at all with my car. I have only done oil changes, and fluid changes and tires, and one hose, that was getting old, as I have had the car since new, and it's now 7 years old.

    I'm looking for another SUV, only I HATE the looks of the Enclave, and also they took off standard features I have in mine. The only way to get the passenger and driver adjusting seats (up and down) Is to go all the way up to the Arcadia Denali, for about $50K.

    Anyone had any suggestions on what you may have replaced your car with?
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Hi.
    2007 RDV owner here. Very few problems like you, and we like it a lot.

    There isn't anything quite RDV sized in the market. Do you want to go slightly bigger or slightly smaller? For slightly smaller I would look at the GMC Terrain and Ford Edge. For slightly larger, since you don't like the Enclave, and you've checked the Acadia, take a look at the Chevrolet Traverse and also the new Ford Explorer. I know you may be thinking "I'm not looking at an Explorer" but the new design is very nicely done, attractive and good materials. As they say "you owe it to yourself to at least take a look". Good luck!
  • rendezvousnotrendezvousnot Member Posts: 1
    I have been having this problem with my 2007 Buick Rendezvous since it was brand new. I have had it in three different dealers and day after day of the car being in the shop and no one could find the problem. :sick: I even had a fire under the dash :surprise: where they found burnt wires.When I took it in I asked them to show me before they fixed it so I could see the damage but, they didn't and were sneaky to try to hide it. They called me back and told me it was done which kept me from taking pictures with it all opened up. Then they refused to give me the wires that they had to cut out and replaced. :mad: A year later the car is doing what it was doing just before it caught fire before. I wont even drive it on a trip across the desert for fear it might leave me on a desert road and kill me or my family. DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE CARS. DANGER. :lemon: I have all the documentation to prove it and will send it to anyone about my experience.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Smag73-

    Sorry to hear about your lemon.

    So, you said you were having "problems" and "even had a fire under the dash". What were the problems you had before the fire happened? What were your initial symptoms, so that we can try to help. Thanks.

    Brian
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    rendezvousnot,
    I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with GM Customer Assistance? If not please feel free to email me and we can discuss setting up a case for you. Enjoy your weekend!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • resa07resa07 Member Posts: 1
    ok i have a 03 rondezvous i got it in 08 and ever since i have gotten it i have had nothing but problems first not even a month after getting it a tire came off the rim (minor to what would come!) then not even a year into having it i had to have the transmission rebuilt...there is 1600 dollars i didnt have then within 6 months of that the tranny went out again (made them re build it for free) luckily that has been ok since then (knock on wood!) then my spedomitor stopped working right it would go way up and stay up and you had to turn it on and off until it went back down...just now about 2 yrs later got that fixed. last summer my thermistat went out on it and of course how its built you cannot tell what the problem was and i live in iowa so you can imagin how fun winter and the rest of summer was. then this spring i had to go out and get new head gaskets because there was coolent going into my oil another 1200 dollars. a couple weeks after that i had a leak in my break line there was a nother 150 in repairs and now about a month ago i had to get a new pcm moduel because i wasnt getting power i thought it was the transmission again but no another diffrent issue by this time i was ready to just drive the POS into the mississippi because i also needed new back breaks and to get a new rear wheel bearing. and this is when i had to buy a whole new dash bored pretty much so i have a working spedomitor again. well that ran me another 1700 dollars that i dont have. and my latest thing is none of my windows will go down not even my sun roof my dad thinks its a fuse or something like that *fingers crossed* but honestly i got this car for just under 12k with everything and i pay 290 a month for it plus all the repairs i keep having not to mention still needing to fix my leaky sun roof... this is by far the worst car ever when it comes to repairs plus gas hog i cannot win! NEVER EVER let yourself or friends buy this car! nothing but problems!! and a money pit! i feel bad for anyone that buys one! :mad:
  • toddhoudektoddhoudek Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2005 Buick Rendezvous with a steady "Security" light on. Everything works fine, but I asked about this light from the used car lot they said it was just because no key fobs were programmed. I purchased a new fob and could not get it to program. After much reading on the internet, I'm beginning to wonder if is a BCM problem. I went to the dealer, and they said it was going to be over $100 just to start diagnosing. I'm willing to put some time into this before opening the check book at the dealer. Also, of the two keys I received, neither one looks like a master. Both have "PK3" stamped at the base of the key. Any assistance would be appreciated. Also, I have tried the 10 min key on to clear, but the light never would go out. I've disconnected the battery for 20 min and reconnect; no joy. Also I've removed the BCM 10amp fuse and re-inserted with no luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I'll make the assumption the key system is the same as my leSabre's. It also uses a PK3 key.

    The keys are programmable into the list of 10 acceptable key entries by putting in an original key from the list, turning it to ON, then removing it and putting in the newly cut PK3 key. Turn it to ON for a second, and then turn to crank the engine and start.

    The key fobs must be programmed into the computer by a Tech II or other electronic device capable of accessing the computer. This will be hard to find outside of a dealer. There may be a local mechanic who has one products that can access the computer and handle the programming, but they are also going to charge--unless you have a friend with access to one.

    There may be some websites that list local companies that can do that for setting up your key fobs. But the dealer can check and program in a fob, that you conveniently buy from them!

    It may appear to cost more, but I think your best bet is to have a dealer check into this for you.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • nlt99nlt99 Member Posts: 9
    Don't know if this will be of any help to you, but here are the instructions I used to program my new key fobs:

    There's a manual method of programming keyless entry transmitters also. Make sure that you have all the transmitters you want to be able to use handy because the system will have to "learn" each one, even if they already worked before. If you have the memory seat/radio/mirror option you'll need to program the remote for 'driver 1' first, then 'driver 2', then up to 2 others.

    1. Close the vehicle doors.

    2. Turn OFF the ignition.

    3. Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.

    4. Press and hold the driver side door lock switch to the unlock position.

    5. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and remove the key. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.)

    6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and remove the key. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.)

    7. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.) Leave the ignition key in the ignition lock cylinder.

    8. Release the door lock switch. The body control module (BCM) will sound three beeps in order to verify the Program Mode has been activated.

    9. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the keyless entry transmitter simultaneously for approximately 5 seconds . The BCM will sound two beeps in order to verify that the transmitter has been successfully programmed.

    10. Perform the previous step to program up to four transmitters.

    11. Remove the ignition key in order to exit the Program Mode.

    12. Verify the proper operation of each transmitter.

    Good luck! Nick
  • toddhoudektoddhoudek Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the replies to my dilemma on the Rendezvous. I've tried the manual programming of the fob as described, but the BCM does not beep to signify that it has gone into programming mode. I'm starting to wonder, with a steady "Security" light, if a previous owner has installed a bypass of some kind. Looks like I need to start searching for a reputable dealer.
  • scoobagirlscoobagirl Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I'm a 2004 RDV owner. My car has right at 90k miles on it and I have NEVER had a problem with it - just regular oil changes and I'm on my 3rd set of tires. Yesterday I had it towed to the GM dealer because I couldn't get the key into the ignition - my guess was a broken lock cylinder or something with the ignition switch. Well, that was correct but guess what? They told me the cylinder lock/ignition switch is all part of the steering column and I have to replace the whole thing, to the tune of almost $1800 including the tow (3 miles) and the parts and labor. I cannot imagine that the parts are not separate for this type of thing. I'm just wondering if anyone has ever heard of this happening and that the whole steering column and ignition assembly is truly one part.

    The shop foreman told me he hasn't seen this happen but a couple times in the past 5 or 6 years; that its kind of a fluke thing to break. I'm still in shock but I have to repair it, as the car is worthless as a trade in if its not fixed.

    Thanks for any tips or comments.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Too bad there are dishonest dealers!! This makes me very mad and gives Buick a bad name, but it's the dealers fault.

    http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D1469G-Ignition-Lock-Cylinder/dp/B001S7N4AC

    That is your part there. OEM Part # 15298923. You can most certainly replace just the bad ignition lock cylinder and its CHEAP ! I would go back to them with the printout and be polite, but firm, that they almost took you for $1800, that you are not happy, and that you want the work done at a discount or you will take it elsewhere. Even if you have to pay for another tow, that is far cheaper than letting them rip you off.
  • ron44094ron44094 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 AWD Rendezvous with 92000 miles! My extended GM warranty expires in about 3 weeks! I just had the car into the dealers for a checkup because the car was making grinding sounds when turning right or left! The replaced the front bushings on both sides and that helped a lot. However, it still makes a sqealing sound when you turn right or left but it doesn't seem like it is coming from the wheels. At about 45000 miles I had it in for noises in the differentials and all the did was replaced the fluid. Now that my warranty is almost up I want to make sure it is not my differentials that need attention! Thanks
  • kriegsiekriegsie Member Posts: 5
    I bought my 2002 Rendezvous brand new at the end of 2001. I put 185000 miles on it and have had every conceivable problem over the years. I really liked the car but I couldn't trust it any more. ( the intake gasket needed replacing for the second time) So I traded it in for a Honda CRV. I would have liked the chevy equinox but can't trust a GM product. Maybe ten years later they have improved, but it's too new to take a chance.
    Of the repair bills, I found I spent about $8000 on repairs.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    ron44094,
    I would recommend asking the dealer to look into them. If you do not trust the dealer I would recommend a second opinion from a different GM dealer. Please keep me updated on your situation.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • carshowpjcarshowpj Member Posts: 4
    Ron,

    We had a similar problem. Have the dealer (or yourself) take the front wheels off. On the back of the brake rotor, there is a piece of sheet metal (probably used to protect the brake rotors and pads from rocks or branches.

    We had a similar problem with a "clicking" noise when turning and it was coming from the front wheels. I pulled these pieces of sheet metal away from the brake rotors, and the problem went away. Now every six months or so, after the sound returns, I bend the sheet metal away from the rotors and we're good for another six months or so.

    I hope this helps.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Mind sharing the list of repairs you had to do over 185,000 miles and their cost?
  • queenbheatherqueenbheather Member Posts: 2
    I have had my 07 Rendezvous for a year now. It was GM Certified when I bought it with 59k miles. I also had a 12,000 mile warranty. After I had it for about a week I noticed that it was having problems starting and then it would stall. It did it a few times and I brought it to the dealer. Well of course it would not do it when I brought it in so there was nothing they said they could do without the problem occurring in front of them. Well a year has gone by and the problem has gotten more frequent to the point today I had to try about six times to get it to start and then the battery went dead and I had to jump it. Has anyone else had the same problems? Could it be just a simple battery problem? I've read some posts that people have had similar problems with no luck at finding the problem/solution.
  • kriegsiekriegsie Member Posts: 5
    I had a similar problem with my 2002. It turned it was the crank timing sensor.
  • cassandrajcassandraj Member Posts: 16
    I would start with replacing the battery. My original battery did die around 60K. However, if that does not work; I had a Dodge years ago and the car would die at stop lights. That was the coil. I wish you luck. But the battery may be cheaper than 1 hour of labor. I would by a good one though and trade in your current battery.
  • bostonterrierbostonterrier Member Posts: 17
    I agree. My original battery became unreliable also at around 60,000. Any mechanic , even Sears or kmart auto, can run a quick test on your battery to see if its holding a charge properly or not. That's where to start.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    queenbheather,

    I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Were you planning on taking the vehicle back to the dealership? Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • annforannfor Member Posts: 1
    I have a question about two different beeping noises. One is a single
    note and the other an double note. They seem to be about a minute
    apart and I can't see anything in the owner's manual which refers to
    sound alarms. There are no warning lights on the dash. Are these a
    sign of something serious? Or can I ignore them for a while until I
    can afford to have them investigated.
    Thanks for any help
    Ann Forrester
  • tstotttstott Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a used 2002 RDV CXL 3 months ago, it had 98k when purchased, now has 103k. A few issues I am having are, whining noises from the rear when making a tight turn. The drivers side heated seat(Leather) does not work. The side view mirrors do not adjust with the automatic adjusting pad, They will adjust upwards, but not downwards or to either sides(both mirrors have same issue). Also the memory seat feature will not allow me to save seat settings on either 1 or 2 but it will work with the reset last position button, so we just program my seating arrangement to it. The car does not beep or make noise when locking with key fob even though the settings are set for it to do so.

    I have noticed that the coolant needs replaced and a radiator flush is desperately needed as it's all gunky in the overflow container. The temp gauge runs a bit past the middle line, but does cool itself down pretty quickly. The gas gauge is a pain in the rear, once the tank is on half, it never gives off an accurate fuel amount, it's either full when it isn't or empty until I make a tight turn. Luckily I haven't ran out of gas yet ;)

    Passenger side window makes a crackling sound when it's rolled up or rolled down, thought to be dirt...but I'm not wagering on that theory. I didn't read reviews on the vehicle before I bought it. I had to get a large vehicle with 3rd row seats as we have 4 children at home and 2 in a different state who come to visit. I love my truck soooo much despite all the bad reviews and the fact that I might not be the lucky RDV owner that I thought I was lol. But any idea on what the problems may be?

    Also, this just started today. When I first bought the truck none of the cig lighter plugs worked, changed the fuse and they were fine. Today(3 months later) the fuse has been blowing again. I replaced it this morning, and within an hour the fuse was blown. We thought maybe it was the car charger as it's just a cheap universal one, took it out, fuse still blew. Thought it was the radar detector, unplugged it, fuse blew again. We haven't added any new things to it, just did an oil change, and changed out a fog light. My rear end is also uneven. We had a rear suspension spring fixed on pass side, the drivers side is still good so we left it alone. We also noticed the black rubber tubing around the self adjusting air suspension metal rod things behind rear tires are all eatin up, and the metal behind the rubber is rusted out. Do we need to replace air suspension? We have the built in air compressor which works fine, but scares the $^(&&*^* out of me when it runs lol

    Help anyone? I'm at my wits end. I'm okay with fixing it and i'm okay with always fixing something as I love my truck so much, but where do I start? My husband is pretty mechanically inclined, but I need to learn the in's and out's too. Thanks in advance. ~Tami~
  • tstotttstott Member Posts: 4
    The fuse problem was a simple fix. I found that my universal off brand phone charger must have had a short in it. I bought a new pack of 20amp fuses, and tested everything. When I plugged my cell into the charger POOF! Blew a fuse. Easy fix, just trashed the charger and no longer have that problem.

    I took my truck into a mechanic today, (I wont use a GM dealer because they OVER price everything). for the rear end noises, which after reading several threads, sounded like a rear diff problem. Most of the posters said the noises went away after refilling the rear diff, so I took the truck in to have the diff filled, and the mechanic is trying to tell me I need a whole new rear end. I'm not sure what to think of it actually. It could be the rear diff does just need fluid, but the dealer I bought the truck from did no repairs to anything at all. He did fix a rear spring that I noticed was broken into 2 pieces, but once he changed that spring my rear end became very un-even/lop-sided. The truck has a very obvious lean to the left(drivers side). I only notice the noise when making tight left hand turns, and mind you my air shocks are completely shot, in fact they may be the original shocks that the truck had put on during assembly.

    Could it be possible that the truck is moaning when making the left hand turns due to a substantial amount of weight bearing on the left hand side due to the lean? I'm wondering if fixing my shocks, driver side spring and filling the rear diff would help the noise. I'm thinking now that it may be a rear wheel bearing making noise due to the huge load put on it when turning into the lean? I hope that makes sense. I'm just wondering if this is a possibility or if I am really looking at a new rear end. I also have a slight wobble in the passenger rear tire, also wheel bearing? Or could it be just a simple balance issue? The moaning noise does happen when turning right, but it's not as noticeable. In fact I haven't noticed it but my husband says it's there.

    Anyways, that's whats going on so far...I think. I will be taking it in to a few more mechanics to have diagnostics ran to figure out if I really need a whole new rear end or not. As far as my mirrors, window, heated seats and memory seat goes...I have bigger fish to fry with this truck before those are dealt with, but I will keep everyone informed as I go!!!! BTW- I STILL love my truck :)
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    For the gas guage problem it may very well be an issue with the c-305 connector (google gm c305 connector for more info).

    Moan or groan typicly at slow speeds from the rear could very well be either low on fluid (meaning there is a leak somewhere) or fluid just needs changing (via the 'proper' procedure).
  • tstotttstott Member Posts: 4
    Thank you, I will have that looked at today. What I don't understand is that in my owners manual, it says that the fuel gauge bouncing around is normal. I can see it from how the gas tank it, but seriously....what other vehicles do that? I will give the c-305 connector a look over. Maybe it will help things out. As of now it's not a huge deal. We have actually gotten used to it.
  • cassandrajcassandraj Member Posts: 16
    edited September 2011
    Just got finished dealing with this moaning issue. I was also told that I needed rear differential work that would be over $1200. We went and had rear differential fluid changed around $100+.

    **However, Standard Rear differential fluid does not remove the sound when you have a buick. You must buy the actual Buick Rear differential fluid from the buick dealer.

    Then you drive your car in doing several figure 8's in both directions and that fixed my problem. Much cheaper than $1200. My husband did this in about 20 minutes himself on this second round. I was advised on the internet that you want to change this fluid about every 20K miles with Buicks. I am glad my car no longer sounds like a moaning old person.
  • tstotttstott Member Posts: 4
    Well it's nice to hear that filling the rear diff fluid worked for you. I am keeping my fingers crossed that it works for me as well. $100+ for having this done is a bit pricey, we were quoted $60 dollars using the Versatrac gear oil from GM which is $35 a pint here, and my truck needs 4 pints.

    I will also be adding changing the rear diff oil as a regular maintenance thing. I would much rather spend the $60 for the fluid change than the whole rear end. IF I do need a whole new rear end, I have a friend of the family who is a mechanic and he is going to build the rear end for me, instead of having my mechanic order a *GULP* used one. I can't see paying $900.00 for a 94k used rear end, that would take a crap 30k miles down the road, to just have it done all over again. I just read that your husband took care of the rear diff oil change. Buying the oil is crazy expensive!!! I have a mechanic here willing to do the whole thing plus ordering the oil for the $60.00 And yes I will be watching to make sure it's the correct versatrac oil.

    It's much more cost effective to just build the rear end than to buy one.
  • safedriver7safedriver7 Member Posts: 2
    I just took my 2004 Rendevous in today to have it checked out. the problem I am haveing is that when I am driving at any speed and hits small or big bumps my rear left tire does a bifg bang' like it is not supporting the constant ruff road driving along with a humming noise when i turn my wheel left or right, more of louder noise when turning left. Anyway, I have been told that I need some work on my rear Differential bearings, meaning that my rear end is collecting rock in the bearing of the "Diff' and that I need to replace them. It is supposely gonna cost around $400 to fix, maybe less if he can change the bearings of the "Diff"in under 4 hours. I was reading in one of the forums on this sight that I should have a second opinion before having this expensive work done when it could have been something a little bit simplier. should I do by what the mechanic says and have this work done or see if I canhave it done a little bit cheaper.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Hello.
    Too hard to be sure from your description if it's suspension related or drivetrain. Describing the type of noise you hear "when turning left" might help us. But it's still hard to diagnose over the internet. Reputable shops generally give free estimates, especially the independent ones. I would get a second opinion and go from there. If he really has to replace bearings in the differential, $400 doesn't seem out of line.
  • 1wildpete1wildpete Member Posts: 25
    Please be advised that one has to have an excellent battery and its needs to be charged.

    With all the electrical equipment on these vechiles today, u need to monitor the charge.

    We do not drive much lately and on a trip i noticed the Buick was not running that well, i figured it might be the gasoline, but I use " LUcus injector fuel system cleaner).

    Well when i got home i cked the battery and found it to only have about 200 amps on the load test - I charged the battery and now it has a 600 amp after load test and it runs alot better. I now keep a $5 trickle charger on it nitely so the charge is strong.

    Donot ever buy a cheap battery - Get one with 3 yr full replacement free, 7yr pro rated after that, the different may be $30, but its worth it in the long run.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited October 2011
    A float charger may be a better choice since some battery sites say that fully charging a battery for prolonged periods can damage the battery. (link)
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    1wildpete-

    Maybe I misunderstood your advice to everyone, but something isn't adding up.

    Your car started just fine, and you left on a trip. During the trip, you felt the engine wasn't running up to par, is this correct?

    Although it's possible your battery is getting old and not holding its charge, and that may be happening based on your low load test measurement, you have or had another problem going on as well.

    Once a vehicle is started, it doesn't technically need its battery to run at all. The alternator creates the electricity needed for the engine to run and all of the electronics as well. If the engine, once started, is not running well, AND the reason its not running well is due to insufficient electrical power (which your load test alone doesn't prove) then your alternator isn't creating the voltage and/or current it should be.

    Putting your battery on a trickle / float / slow charge each night shouldn't be necessary, even in the harshest of climates and even if its sits for weeks. If it really runs better on days after you've charged it compared to days after you didn't charge it, either the alternator is not up to spec, or the battery has a problem, perhaps even a small internal short between cells.

    What voltage are you getting with the engine off? Should be around 12V. What voltage are you gettting with the engine running? Should be close to 14V.

    Lucas fuel system cleaner is good stuff, provided you don't overuse it, but if you did have a bad tank of gas it can't fix that. It does almost nothing to help get any water out of the gas which is the most typical "bad gas" issue. It contains detergents that will clear intake valves, clogged injectors, etc.

    In the future if you feel you got a bad tank of gas, the best additive would be one bottle of something like Sta-Bil moisture absorber/gas stabilizer. Dosage per label.

    As I said, maybe I misunderstood something, let us know so we can better assist you. And keep enjoying the Buick -- I come from a long line of Buicks so to speak :) 61 Special, 74 Century, 81 Regal, 83 Regal, 89 Regal, 98 Century, 07 Rendezvous.... and too many other GM's to bother listing. :)

    Hoping for a 2013 Regal GS next, what a beautiful car.
  • icenogleicenogle Member Posts: 1
    my 04 buick rendezvous has the dash light that shows the door adjar is on
  • 1wildpete1wildpete Member Posts: 25
    If all the doors are fine, then it a bad interlock switch at one of doors, u need to find where they are and check them with am electrical meter, they are probably behind door panels.
Sign In or Register to comment.