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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well that's why I posted about the crank seal--if the stop leak stops the leaks, then it wasn't the crank seal in the first place. :)
  • cdyoung1cdyoung1 Member Posts: 3
    Dear rendezvousnot,

    My 2005 with 80K just burned up all the wiring in the dash. Di buick help you our with the costs. I am in contact with Buick customer service right now. The dealer in Illinois is charging me $2500 and that is a lot of repair for a 7 year old car. Please let me know

    David
  • tflanstertflanster Member Posts: 17
    I got zero help from GM - none. I also have a LeSabre. The windows (3) dropped into the door well. Dealer for #1 wanted over $900 to repair. I complained to GM. They fixed it. Next time, no help. I took the car to a local body shop. $240 including parts and labor. Total time while I waited? 35 minutes.

    Take your RDV to a local, trusted mechanic. Tell GM to take a hike.

    And remember my $1500+ oil leaks? I poured a can of gasket seal in the engine over a month ago. No more leaks. I checked yesterday. Undercarriage dry as the day I got the RDV. Anything suspect there?
  • andykayandykay Member Posts: 1
    I bought a used 2006 Buick Rendezvous. Battery light would remain always on when I test drove this vehicle. I was told by the seller that the car was shown to several mechanics and the battery was replaced twice. But still the light was always on. I bought the vehicle assuming it will be a minor problem. I got the alternator checked, which was fine. Worked on C305 connector with no luck. Got it diagnosed through a dealer and was told that the pcm is faulty and needs to be changed. So changed the pcm (computer) through my mechanic and not the dealer again with no luck. Car works fine but since the battery light which is always on, makes me uncomfortable to go on long trip. Plus I have spent lot of money and time. Can anyone help me solve the problem?

    Thanks.
    Andykay
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    If your undercarriage went from being a huge mess, to "dry as the day I got the RDV", then I don't think the gasket seal was your fix. Sounds like whoever did your last oil change had not properly tightened the filter and/our drain plug. Was that the dealer's oil change?
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    What is the voltage with ignition on, engine not running? What is the voltage with the engine running?
  • lllabratlllabrat Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2006 rendezvous that I have owned since new. Currently at 110k miles. Has been very reliable. I have changed (DIY) my oil and filter (regular dino 5w 30 and purolator filter) every 5k for the first 100k miles. At about 70 or 80k (can't remember) I started noticing some oil seepage between the engine block and tranny. Nothing major. No leakage on driveway or anything. But the oil and tranny pans we all messy (oil residue) on the outside. Been that way for a while. I was going to change the oil pan gasket but found out you need to separate the engine and tranny at least a couple of inches to do this (what a crappy design) so I nixed that idea. Put mobil 1 at 100k and changed the filter and decided to do oil changes every 10k. Mind you I have always tightened the drain plug and filter firmly. Just went to change the oil and filter at 110k (mobil one again) and the oil pan and tranny pan were clean as a whistle (no residue). Can't explain it but at this point i have to attribute this to mobil 1.

    Dave
  • tflanstertflanster Member Posts: 17
    You may recall my post a few months ago. I had the same oily, greasy looking oil and tranny pans. A mechanic told me the oil pan gasket and front main seal were leaking. $1200 - $1500 to repair. I called Buick. They sent me to a dealer for a check. Yes, they said, leaking. You need to have us replace the gaskets/seals. That will be "about" $1500. There's about 67K miles on an '03 FWD.

    So I went to O'Reilly's automart and bought a bottle of gasket seal,softener. Put in in. Its been about 4000 miles so far. Zero leaks. I just checked under the car. Oil pan and tran pans are as dry as they were when they were steamed 3 - 4 months ago. I can't explain why, it just is.
  • ailsaforshawailsaforshaw Member Posts: 1
    Well, I love my 2002 Buick Rendezvous, have hardly had any problems with it - had the air conditioning fixed by a wonderful mechanic in June, moved to BC, Canada, cannot get it Passed on the provincial test - very annoying. The lights are on on the dash, will not go off. The airbag light is on - just happened a little while ago, thought it was because I had heavy stuff in the car, thought the car thought someone was sitting in the seat without a seat belt - thought it was a seat belt light . Tok it to canadian Tire to get the provincial test, cost me $302, then they said I have to take it to the dealer (always scary, because their prices are always so crazy compared to other mechanics), did that, today, they ran their own diagnostic test, even thoughI gave them a copy of the diagnostic test Canadian Tire did, yesterday... have to go back to the dealer, again, tomorrow - almost another thousand to do something to turn the red airbag light off. It would at least be better if I knew this was a wiring issue, or a code issue, which I feel like it is - I'm not getting nearly enough information, feels horrible. Wish I had a man to go in with me - shouldn't have to feel like a woman is treated so differently with cars - and frustrated because where else do you spend $1,500, nothing seems to be done, NO real information, minimal conversation, virtually no real explanation, you don't even get to go and see for yourself. Is horrible. But I love my car, have NO plans to be made to feel like I should just buy a new car, since I'm at the dealers, anyway - I hate when that happens...anyway, I hope to God this red airbag light goes off and they can pass my car, so I don't have to deal with this, anymore. No wonder so many people ride their bikes and take the bus in BC. Seems like too many cars from anywhere else fail their BC provincial test... link titlelink title :cry:
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    ailsaforshaw-

    I would not pay another PENNY. You are being taken. $1500 to run a diagnostic? I would go back in there and ask to speak to a manager. Have him explain what they did that earned $1500 in one day of work. Most shops do not have a $187 per hour shop rate!!! Assuming they have not put any parts into it and have only spent 1 day troubleshooting and have charged you $1500 -- I would very calmly but confidently STATE that you are being taken advantage of, that you have paid plenty already, and that you expect your Rendezvous repaired with no further bills. If he tells you they are throwing parts at it (we couldn't figure it out, so we started replacing things), I would get nervous. If he sounds like they still have no clue what's wrong, take the car elsewhere, a better dealer. Then seek a refund from the first dealer and if they turn you down, then hopefully you paid via credit card and can try to get your money back via charge back. Good luck!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the gasket sealer worked then probably your main seal was not leaking. Gasket sealer doesn't work on that type of seal. But good for you, hope it lasts.
  • tflanstertflanster Member Posts: 17
    Thanks, so far so good. I'm beginning to feel like that old Greek Diogenes who went through life shining a lantern in peoples eyes looking for an honest man.

    I have one local mechanic who I trust. I wouldn't trust a dealership garage if they were attached to lie detectors. I could give several instances of differences between dealers and indepents. Here's just a couple;

    The radio volume control button on my RDV quit working. A dealer wanted $75.00 labor and $15.00 parts. I went to the indy guy. He ordered a button, $6.95. He used a thin-blade screwdriver, popped the old button out, put the new one in. No labor. Total price, $6.95 plus tax.

    The left rear window fell into the window well. Dealer charged $910.00 and kept the car for a day. I complained to Buick and got a refund. Another window, left driver's side, fell in. Took the car to the local guy. He put a new unit in, $240.00, 30 minutes.

    One more: My keyless remote quit. Dealer wanted $85.00 for a new one. I pried it open and replaced the button battery. $2.95. A second remote broke where the key ring went through the loop. It was under warranty so I got a new one. Dealer wanted $40 to program it. I took the chip out of the old one and put it in the new one. Dealer said it wouldn't work. It did.

    If its at all possible, I stay away from dealer garages.
  • caandecaande Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 Rendezvous occasionally "misses" when I'm accelerating. It jolts, as if it's not getting gas for a second, or as if (and I know nothing about cars) maybe one cylinder (?) didn't fire. It doesn't happen all the time, just when it feels like it. I had the transmission checked, and although they managed to find a $100 part that was "due for replacement", they couldn't diagnose or fix it. Nothing shows up on the computer, and I haven't been able to find a mechanic that remembers how to look into the engine to find the problem. Anyone else have this happen?
    Thanks! C
  • courtneycalucourtneycalu Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Rendezvous and the air bag light is now on all the time. At first, it would come on and off periodically, but now it has been on all the time for the last couple of months. Anyone know how to fix this? It is a wiring issue? A faulty air bag? It seems like I am not the only one who has had this problem. Does GM pay for this repair since it seems to be common? Next question: My husband has a 2002 Rendezvous also (AWD). It seems that the A/C condenser may be leaking but we are not sure. Something is leaking inside his car and his carpet is wet. Anyone else have this problem? What was it and how was it fixed? I've read that there were issues with the condenser...does this sound like what's wrong? Did GM do anything to fix this? We are looking to get rid of this Rendezvous because we've had sooo many problems with it- the biggest thing was we had to replace the engine and there was only 87k miles on the car at the time!
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    I might wonder about the c305 connector, could cause issues like this. Google 'GM c305 connector' to find out more (fuel filter might not be a bad idea either if it hasn't been changed in a while)
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    For the AIRBAG light, I would not be surprised if it has to do with wiring connector under the driver or front passenger seat.

    For the wet carpet on the other one, assuming it water (not coolant) the usual suspect would be clogged drain line but first I would check on the condition of the cabin filter(s) as they could create this type of thing if they are clogged up.
  • caandecaande Member Posts: 2
    Thank you so much, Ray80! I'll check those things. C.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    From the Buick Service Bulletin:

    "Condition

    Some owners may comment that the carpet in the passenger foot well of the vehicle is wet and the interior of the vehicle has an odor.

    Cause

    This condition may be caused by a plugged evaporator case drain or a leaking evaporator case drain to cowl seal leak.

    Correction

    Make a simple tool to clean the evaporator case drain following these steps:

    1. Obtain a fixed antenna mast (new or used).
    2. Measure from the tip of the antenna a distance of 121 mm (4.75 in) and make a paint line or tape line completely around the antenna mast. This will be the depth stop reference.
    This antenna tool is to be reused.

    2001 Aztek and 2002 Rendezvous Vehicles Only:

    1. Place the vehicle in the service stall over a hoist.
    2. Open the hood.
    3. With a light (a flashlight works best), look over the top of the engine between the back of the generator and the power brake vacuum hose attachment to the intake plenum. Look down to the base of the cowl to locate the evaporator case drain outlet.
    4. Insert the antenna mast tool described above into the evaporator case drain to the depth stop reference line on the antenna mast. Some force may be required the last 6.35 mm (.25 in) as you break away the flashing on the inside of the HVAC case covering the drain tube.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The airbag light situation needs a computer scan to help locate the problem Could be as simple as a defective seat belt sensor.
  • 1wildpete1wildpete Member Posts: 25
    I would say that your electric fuel pump is going bad or you need to change the fuel filters, I had this same problems.
    Also i would find a different mechanic than the one that sold you that transmission part for $100, as i have never heard of a "due for replacement" trans part - If they just changed your trans filter that would be OK.
  • 1wildpete1wildpete Member Posts: 25
    Please comment on what you feel should be done and when. Thanks
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good afternoon caande,

    It looks like you've worked with your dealership on this but without any results in getting your primary concern diagnosed. If we can follow up on this with your dealer, please send us more details (including your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership) to socialmedia@gm.com

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • app1dmkapp1dmk Member Posts: 1
    UGH...I have a 2005 Buick Rendezvous. I had a 2002 which blew up after two years, hence being replaced with the 2005. My car is now seven years old with 120,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on two weeks ago. I took it to dealer and dealer says I need a new engine to the tune of 4,000 - 5,000 dollars. I reached out to GM in Michigan explaining that this is my second Rendezvous within 12 years. All my cars before lasted that long and longer without all of this expense. At this point they are "willing," to give me a $3000 toward a new car. Does anyone else find this ridiculous!!! I can't afford a new car in this economy nor can I afford an unreliable GM!!! Any suggestions????
  • natshansnatshans Member Posts: 1
    Hi Andykay,

    I have a 2006 Buick Rendezvous and I sometimes have the same issue. I have found that when I park on an incline with the front of the car higher than the back, put the hand brake on and leave it parked for an hour or so, it usually goes off by it's self. As far as the root cause....the verdict is still out on that
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good afternoon natshans,

    I see you're still searching for the root of the concern; had you already had this diagnosed by a dealership? If so, and if you would like for us to follow up on that with them, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name, contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and the name of your dealer).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • malott57malott57 Member Posts: 3
    I've got a rattleing noise like something in the wheel weld is fliping but it's in the engine. Buick garage says it's in the #6 cylinder, possible cam & lifters? They say it will be very expensive. Noise happens between 15 & 20 mph, just as it shifts. In 3,000 miles it used 2 qts of oil but there's no oil leaks. No smoke is noiceable coming out of exhaust although there is black stains slightly on the bottom of chrome exhaust tip. Most of the time at highway speeds (70 mph) everything appears smooth. When oil is down a quart or slightly more there is a rattleing sound that comes and goes at 70 mph. I can't get rid of the Rainier because of this but otherwise this is a good vehicle. What can I do with this engine noise and how much will it cost?
  • 1wildpete1wildpete Member Posts: 25
    I have concern that it only happens when you shift, If it were the cam or lifter, i think it would be an issue all the time. Ask around for a good mechanic that people trust.
  • 1wildpete1wildpete Member Posts: 25
    You could try going to an automotive store, tell them your problem and ask them if they feel a "LUCUs oil additive may help- it cost about $15 a quart, but its cheaper than an engine rebuilt.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Good morning malott57!

    We're sorry to hear about this noise concern you're having with your Rainier and see that you have been to visit the Buick dealership on this. If you wanted for us to check in with them at all, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and the name of your involved dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • linzeemplinzeemp Member Posts: 4
    My wife's 2005 Rendezvous Ultra (purchased new; now approx 45K miles) began running rough and its service engine soon light went on. She immediately took it to the local GM dealership (Maher Chevrolet) for service. I've just been told that one of the cylinders is not working. They have ruled out the ignition coil. At a MINIMUM the repair will run $3,600. If we replace the engine the cost will exceed $7,000. Is anyone aware of a serious issue with this engine? I will need to think long and hard about buying another GM vehicle in the future.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2013
    That's very strange. Did you get a precise diagnosis---a bad valve, or cracked cylinder head, or bad head gasket or.....the "cylinder not working" is pretty vague, and the dealer should have easily been able to zero in on the precise problem. I'd hate to see the engine torn apart for no good reason. They should have performed a Cylinder Leakdown Test.
  • lllabratlllabrat Member Posts: 12
    I assume you have the 3.6 DOHC engine not the 3.4 OHV engine correct? Have heard of some time chain issues on the earlier 3.6s (which yours is if you have that engine). The timing chain repair is expensive. The 2005 3.4 and 2006 3.5 have been pretty bulletproof. I have a 2006 rendezvous with the 3.5 and 117k miles and it runs great and burns no oil.

    Dave
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Agreed 100% with the previous two posters. We don't have a complete diagnosis here. The engine is apparently running on 5 cylinders - if a timing chain issue had come up I would not expect 5 cylinders to run OK. These engines are pretty bulletproof internally. I would make sure they tested the entire fuel delivery system, electrical, and a leakdown before proceeding. Probably time to get a second opinion. I bet it's something cheap. 2007 Rendezvous 3.5L with 84,000mi and it doesn't leak or burn a drop of oil.

    Yes all Ultra's had the 3.6L DOHC.
  • linzeemplinzeemp Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the quick replies. Right now I've got $525 in labor in removing the manifold. Will be another $270 if I want to do the leakage test. The leakage test would verify the cylinder failure. To repair the engine would cost a total of approximiately $4,000 (including the $525). I think a second opinion is a good idea. I hate to spend this much money on a vehicle almost 8 years old. Even then the 1 yr./12K miles engine work warranty would only cover the parts replaced. I've got a serious case of sticker shock. Should I do the leakage test first?
  • malott57malott57 Member Posts: 3
    They didn't do those test.. They pulled the R/H head. The noise is coming from the #6 cylinder. They replaced all right side lifters and went thru the head and replaced all seals (One was bad & on #6). All lifers appears good. Put it all back together and noise is worse after spending $1400.00. Now I've driven it 1,500 miles to Florida with the noise coming & going. Engine now uses no oil. Noise is still coming from #6. At 70 mph, noise starts and chatters, then stops for about 2 minutes, then chatters again. Any ideas?
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    To both of you:

    First off, sorry to hear this is happening. We've had 7 Buicks over the years and none have had engine or trans failure, so as a fellow Buick owner you have my sympathies.

    Secondly, have either of you opened a case with GM consumer support? You both need to. I believe the email address is cac.buick@gm.com. I had a case for a Pontiac, and they treated me well, were very prompt. I would explain what's happening and ask for financial assistance and in the case of malott57 explain that the fix isn't good and you don't have faith in that dealer. In both of your cases, this isn't just a normal repair, this is unusual, and not normal for your mileage if you have done maintenance all along.

    Spending $4000 on fixing one of these is not reasonable unless GM kicks in some assistance. There's way too many of these in salvage yards. You can pick up a good engine that's never been opened up for probably $1000 and have a QUALITY independent shop put it in for you and be at $2000.

    #1- keep at the dealer. If you've used the dealer for maintenance and other repairs, make it clear to them that you've been loyal and want some help.
    #2- open a case with GM.
    #3- if all else fails, find an independent mechanic that is well regarded and swap the entire engine. That used engine will last a lot longer than one that gets rebuilt usually, because too many times the person doing the internal engine work doesn't have the experience to get it exactly right and you could end up with 'gremlins' a couple years later.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    >#3- if all else fails, find an independent mechanic that is well regarded and swap the entire engine. That used engine will last a lot longer than one that gets rebuilt usually,

    Poster can check car-parts.com and search for whichever engine his is 3.4 or 3.6. I searched and found 3.6's with under 100000 mi in the 800-1200$ range in this area for a used engine.

    I would seriously consider a GM remanufactured engine installed by a good independent if the car is otherwise in good shape and you wish to keep it.

    If you check around some independent shops who often rebuild engines themselves, they may know what the flaw is and may be able to help you without a replacement engine.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • linzeemplinzeemp Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the suggestions. I have just emailed GM to see if they can provide me any assistance. Later today I will speak with the service advisor further to see if he can provide me with specifics as to what they have found thus far. Right now I leaning toward having the leakdown test performed as this seems to be the usual diagnostic test for serious engine problems.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm....I wonder if you have a loose wrist pin. There is a test for that---you run the car at idle, listen to the noise, then pull or short out one spark plug, and if the noise doubles in frequency, it was a wrist pin.

    There's also "piston slap", or a collapsing piston, but that's less likely.
  • shorteeeee74shorteeeee74 Member Posts: 1
    I have had the car for over 3 years, and while there are other issues (replaced sensor in front wheel hub, driver side window rolls up/down when it wants, new battery in keyless remote, but all four doors don't respond in locking or unlocking), but my new primary concern due to how cold it is......my driver's side seat no longer heats up. The light on the switch still lights up when you turn it on/off, but no heat. The owner's manual says fuse #42 works this function, but light would be out if it was a fuse. The wiring under seat looks hooked in properly...what do I need to be looking at here?? I'm so spoiled to this feature......I want it fixed fast and cheap!!!
    Thanks alot :)
  • nlt99nlt99 Member Posts: 9
    Hi!
    This is not a simple problem unfortunately. Possible causes include:
    - Either heating element in the seat open (seat cushion or back)
    - The heating-control module on the seat frame under the seat cushion
    - The PTC circuit breaker in the wiring harness under the seat
    - The power wiring to the seat
    - The ground wiring to the seat
    - Poor connection in the connector under the seat or elsewhere in the circuit

    If you have someone familiar with electrical trouble-shooting, I can send you the wiring diagram for this function and a GM trouble-shooting chart.

    I read that about 90% of the time, this problem is caused by the heating elements in the seat itself. To replace those requires hog-ring pliers and some familiarity with removing and installing upholstery because you have to disassemble the whole seat to get to them.

    One shotgun possibility would be to check with your local wrecking yards to see if they have a fairly low-mileage Rendezvous to get the seat out of. Make sure that if your RDV has memory seats, the donor car does too....... and vice-versa. If your problem IS in the seat, this should take car of it, assuming the heating function is good in the replacement seat (try to check it at the yard before it's removed from the vehicle)

    To remove the seat, use the adjusting button to move it all the way forward, then remove the two large nuts under the back of the seat. Then run the seat all the way back and remove the two large nuts under the front of the seat. Then you can tilt the whole seat back and disconnect all the electrical connectors underneath and carefully lift the seat out. Reverse the directions to install the new seat.

    Hope this helps! Let me know if you want the other info Nick
  • fixit16fixit16 Member Posts: 6
    edited May 2013
    Have 2002 Buick Rendezvous. Is there any way to unhook the AWD disable light without hurting anything else?
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    I don't know of anyway to make the light magically go away, but I think it might be just as easy to correct the problem (unless something has been done to make AWD not work). Fairly common suspect for the light to come on is the C-305 connector under vehicle just behind drivers seat. If there is an issue with it other problems may occur (starting/stalling/ fuel gauge issues)
  • fixit16fixit16 Member Posts: 6
    I am having all of these issues, thanks a lot I will replace this and see if that is the problem. Thank you
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    You might want to do a google search on 'gm c305 connector' . Should be able to find how to correct the problem
  • partagaspartagas Member Posts: 6
    I am not too sure about t he "305" connector. I say this, only due to the fact that, that is just that, a connector, to get the info to the BCM. I can say, if you do know that this "IS" the issue, i would check the rear wheel sensors. only because i have had the front wheel sensor connector break apart (long story, wife driving), Anyway, After fixing that is issue with the broken connector there, my AWD light issue, went away. IF you know for fact it is that 305 , i would check the other ones down the path, to those sensors, maybe it could be a wheel sensor, which is not all that big of an isssue to fix....
    hope this can shed some light.
  • 1wcready1wcready Member Posts: 1
    Buick Rendezvous BCM in in the center console, you must remove most of the center console to get at the BCM.
  • tflanstertflanster Member Posts: 17
    My '03 CXL, about 73k miles on it ran for years at about 20 - 22 mpg. I did an oil, filter, air filter change about 3 weeks ago and saw my mpg drop from the usual to as low as 17 mpg. I took the car to a mechanic who did a computer check. All systems normal. No sensor breakdown. I had to get the car smogged (CA rip-off.) No problems at all. I opened the filter air feed "tubes" and sprayed the inside with filter cleaner solvent. No change. Interestingly, my wife's car, an '02 LeSabre LTD has the same problem. Mpg went from about 22 - 23 to about 19 mpg.

    I added a fuel additive to a full tank. No change. I added half a tank of "hi-test." No change. The only thing I can think of is that here in the land of fruits and nuts, refineries are required to make a "summer blend" of gas to reduce emissions. Maybe there's ethanol added. I don't have a clue. So what's up with this?

    The gauge cluster in the dash, outside temperature and fuel seem to be o.k. I did do a manual mileage check - miles divided by gallons, BTW and the result confirmed the gauge reading. But . . . the temp gauge is goofy. Temps here have been in the 100's of late. The gauge would show 87 for a long while, then jump to say, 100, then jump back to 75 then, eventually back to 100. Something is goofy there. I don't know where the sensor input for the temp gauge is so can't check it. But as I said earlier, I cleaned out the intake filter area (and the filter is installed correctly and the right one, too.)

    So, there's a couple more things wrong with the car. I posted, earlier, my adventures with oil pan and front crank leaks that stopped when I added a gasket leak stopper. It worked even though some here thought it wouldn't. I'm not a big additive guy but I remember Marvel Mystery Oil and Rislone from way back when. I don't know what they did or why they worked, but they did. Maybe I'll try some MMO next. Can't hurt.
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    'Temps here have been in the 100's of late.'

    Don't know as I'd be expecting good MPG's with that kind of temp, even without thinking about the A/C being on constantly.
  • tflanstertflanster Member Posts: 17
    Sure but how to explain the previous 10 years of 20-22 mpg? This happened overnight. It's hot here every summer, too. Nothing new about that.
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