Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?

spokane · November 2001

I have also wondered about pressures associated with an auxiliary by-pass filter. Since you don't want to depend of the pressure-drop across the by-pass filter (which changes with usage) it seems that the by-pass circuit needs two simple safeguards. First, a pressure control valve is needed for low-RPM conditions so the by-pass flow is shut off (for example at less than ~15 psi pump discharge pressure) to provide full flow to the engine bearings at low pump speeds. Also, in order for the system to build pressure normally as speed increases, an orifice is needed in the by-pass circuit. The orifice should be sized so that the existing relief valve on the oil pump discharge will relieve at least a small amount under high RPM conditions with a hot and well-worn engine. With these features, the auxiliary filter system would not cause any reduction in oil pressure at the bearings and you would have some flow through the auxiliary filter except (possibly) at very low engine speeds. There may be some other way to achieve this control; please let us know if you learn details.

adc100 · December 2001

I personally the added benefits of the system do not warrant the possible reduction in reliability and possible reduction in delivery pressure. I am not opposed to the concept of making things better, but in this case it really scares me a little. Also many vehicles will not have room for the system.

I think the bypass filter already has an orifice type device. Since they are in parallel, I'm not sure you need the control valve. As the filters load up there will be variations in flow but the circuit will be somewhat self-correcting.

vidtech · December 2001

i have always used the regular purolator or motorcraft filters.i recently cut apart one of these purolators and found a string tied around the element.does anyone know what the purpose of this string is?or is it an aid during manufacturing?has anyone had a bad experience with these filters?

adc100 · December 2001

on the one I cut apart. Possibly manufacturing process. Its on the upstream side so it doesn't matter. I like Pure One.

tsjay · December 2001

The string keeps the circumfernece of the pleated paper cartridge small enough that the cartridge will fit inside the lip of the metal end plates and seat down into the plastisol to avoid a bypass. The pleated paper has the tendency to spring out, causing the circumference of the cylinder of pleated paper to be too big to fit easily into those lips of the end caps. They have to make so many filters per hour to be profitable that they can't take time with each one to put any extra effort into fitting the paper into the end caps.

The string shouldn't hurt anything, and it might even help keep the pleats properly spaced during the life of the filter. I doubt that though, since the string isn't glued to the paper or anything.

Most filter manufacturers don't find it necessary to use the string, but some older production lines still use them.

tom

noobie1 · December 2001

Thanks for your interest in this subject. I too share your concern adc100. It is scary stuff, which is why I'm proceeding very cautiously; the truck is brand new (4857 mi.) but if you could see the size of the OEM filter (3.5"dia. X 3"long, dinky considering 496 cu.in.) you would understand my concern about it's ability to do the job. And because of interference with the front drive shaft, there's no room for anything larger. I'm not as interested in extended service intervals as I am extending the life of the engine. Initial investigation leaves me fairly well sold by the testimonials: the cleaner the oil, the longer the life. As far as room goes for an additional filter, on this application (Silverado) there's gobs of it, enough for a vertical mount of about 9" and still stay above the frame level.
I posed this same question about pressure reduction to one of the after market kit providers after doing so here. Their response was that since their unit only flowed 1.5 quarts/min. no appreciable pressure to the engine was lost. Unfortunately though, most of the after market stuff I've seen is kinda clunky, intended for use on heavy equipment, big rigs, and diesel generators, the filters not being easily changed like a spin-on. Permacool offers cast aluminum mount/receivers for remotely mounted spin-ons. The trick for this set up is finding a spin-on with a low flow rating and low micron rating. Because of thier intended use spin-ons tend toward maximizing flow. Claims for filtration in after market units are in the 3-5 micron range where the lowest spin-on claim found so far is around 10 although with a high flow rating/claim.

bidandsell · December 2001

JCWhitney carries a single and a dual remote kit that uses Motorcraft FL-1A or their equivalent. Might be just the ticket.
Bid

noobie1 · December 2001

So, with this set-up a low pressure valve as suggested would be a definite must. Spokane, if I understand you correctly, the intended purpose of the orifice you mentioned is to meter the volume of oil to the by-pass system, causing the flow rate of its filter to be of little consequence, correct? Could that not be achieved by the correct size oil line from the engine to the filter?
This is pure fantasy. Ideally, wouldn't the best by-pass system be almost entirely independent of the engine oiling system, using a separate electric pump - independent except prior to start up, where oil could be diverted back through out the engine. We've all heard the claims that most engine wear occurs at start up because of drain back. If it's true, and despite anti-drain back valves on better filters, wouldn't it be better to have oil circulating through out the engine at start up? Pure fantasy (or maybe better, fanaticy).

www.permacool.com

www.filtersolutionsww.com

www.kleenoilfiltrationinc.com

Will someone please clue me in about making these addresses hot links. Host?

-David

noobie1 · December 2001

Thanks. JCWhitney is what put me onto Permacool.

-David

vetteryan · December 2001

Try
www.amsoil.com

www.oilguard.com

for the best bypass filtration kits

Ryan

etech · December 2001

I just wanted to say thanks for all of the helpful replies. I stopped by Wal-Mart today and they were not carrying any of the premium filters, ie Mobile One, PureOne or DuraGuard Gold.

It looks like a trip to AutoZone tomorrow.

noobie1 · December 2001

Eureka! What a bonanza of info. Very much appreciated.

-David

spokane · December 2001

Yes, David, the oil line or fittings could effectively serve as the orifice, and perhaps some of the suppliers have sized their line/fittings accordingly - so that the flow through the by-pass filter is of little consequence to the total lube system flow. Keep in mind that the oil pump output, prior to its built-in pressure regulation valve, is directly proportional to the engine speed. So, theoretically, at low speed this orifice could be too large to assure normal pressure to the bearings - thus a need for a pressure control valve in series with the orifice. Practically, however, these folks may have sized the line/fitting to the auxiliary filter so small that the pump output regulator will continue to relieve some flow under all conditions of operation. If so, your engine is indeed protected from an underpressure condition without any such added pressure control valve. I expect that is what the best suppliers have done but I wouldn't buy from someone who was unable to describe his product - and your engine's oil pump - in specific flow rate numbers.

Well, the separate electric pump is not fantasy. I have forgotten the name, but at least one company provides just such a system, for about $500, which includes all the appropriate fittings and an interlock the won't allow the engine begin cranking until a pre-set oil pressure has been achieved. As you indicate, its purpose is pressurization of the bearings before the engine turns over. This system could only help but, for me, I believe regular changes of oil and filter would be a better economic choice. A cheap way of providing some reduction in start-up wear would be to add an auxiliary starter switch. With that arrangement, you could leave the ignition off, crank the engine several revolutions to build a little oil pressure, and then turn on the ignition. This is also a bit fanatical but the idea is that main and rod bearings get some oil pressure before being subjected to the increased loading from combustion.

jeddclampette · December 2001

I have a BMW that uses the paper cartridge, not the canister type. I've always purchased the filter through the dealer just because I haven't seen any aftermarket types that can beat the factory unit. Actually, I once bought a cartridge through autozone - Deutsch filter- and later found out it caused the canister cap from sealing completely because the cartridge was too tall, when compared to the factory filter. Lucklly, I didn't loose too much oil. It just left a bad impression in my mind about going aftermarket.

But from reading some of the postings here, some of you fellas are quite intelligent on this topic, so I thought I'd throw out my 2cents and see if any of you have any insight for my german import car.

Thanks.

tsjay · December 2001

Sorry I can't help you, but I just wanted to post so you wouldn't think you are being ignored.

Come on guys, anyone have any info for Jedd?

tom

bidandsell · December 2001

Try NAPA they probably have one in their Gold line.

brorjace · December 2001

Jedd, when you try stores like NAPA (which ain't a bad place to start), bring a factory filter with you so you can compare them right there at the parts counter. Buying the wrong size filter could quickly become pricey and frustrating .

I'd also look at Baldwin/Hastings website and see if they offer one in their on-line catalog:

http://www.hastingsfilters.com/

For some applications (especially some foreign cars), the best solution might be the OEM filter. I know for Hondas my favorite oil filter is the OEM Filtech filter made in the USA.

--- Bror Jace

braimo · December 2001

Hi any1 out there know Honda part # for the American made (FILTECH mfg.)oil filter for a 2001 Odyssey?

brorjace · December 2001

Braimo
Try www.hparts.com as they are having a sale on oil filters right now.

Make sure you stipulate "Filtech" filters for your Odyssey.

--- Bror Jace

braimo · December 2001

Thanks to brorjace for the website info. re:2001 Honda Odyssey Filtech mfg.oil filter.

gasguzz · December 2001

Doesn't Mann make spin-on filters for BMs?
Have no info on their quality/performance, though.

adc100 · December 2001

I wrote and asked for the efficiency of their filters. This is what I received.

"Dear customer,
Our oil filters would be considered high flow and high capacity.
They
flow 12 - 16 GPM depending on size and trap / hold 90% more debris than
standard filters. This translates into a life of 6,000 miles. (We do
recommend you follow your manufacturers oil change intervals). They
have a
90% efficiency rating on an SAE multiple pass test which goes down to
10 -
20 microns. Anything less and flow rate starts being affected
adversely.
Sorry, I have no single pass data but then again, that is not a "real
world"
test. They have a 550 PSI burst strength which is more than double
that of
standard filters. This makes them suitable for all racing
applications.
The inner filter media has metal end caps to ensure no debris can get
back
into the system. They have anti-drain back valves and pressure relief
valves. On the end, there is a 1" nut for easy removal. This nut is
drilled through to allow the use of a safety wire; great for off road
racing.
Thanks for asking, Rick"

ywilson · December 2001

Can anyone give me information or personal experience with Amsoil SDF filters (oil)? I have been using them because of thier superior cleaning/filtering abilities but I would like to get some different views from those that have actually used them.

armtdm · December 2001

Well, I have been using both for about 10 years with oil analysis. There is no doubt that my analysis results improved when I switched to the SDF filter (initially they did not make one to fit my car and I had to use OEM) On the five cars I service I use them on four, the one I do not I use Pure One as the Amsoil filter (after two new ones) simply would not seal.
So, I think both are great products however, I honestly feel that the Pure One is comparable and I think the Mobil 1 (which I have also used) is a slightly better filter and easily available. My drain intervals go from 5000 miles to 12,000 depending on the car and type of driving and if I am going beyond 7,500 I will cahnge the filter at around 6000. Longest lasting car I have that was swithced at 1000 miles to both products now has 140,000 and engine seems fine, changes of oil and filter at 7,500. I tired 15,000 once but the results were not good, too much silicon, copper and iron for wear metals.

I think the best of the best are Mobil 1, Amsoil and Pure One

ywilson · December 2001

I thought as much. I have been using Amsoil filters on my Durango for about 18 months. I have been very pleased with the performance. My oil changes are at 5000 miles but during my last change the oil was still clear and my mechanic said I could probably go a little longer between changes. I use synth totally and have been for years. My last 2 SAAB's lasted a long time. 9000 turbo was 285,000+ and my 900 was 185,000+. I traded them both for new vehicles for me and my wife because everything was breaking around the cars except the engines. Got to be a little too expensive to maintain. If you have owned a SAAB you'll know what SAAB story means.

duper · December 2001

It was mentioned (I believed by brorjace) that Nissan has 2 filters, both are blue but one is made in US by Filtech and the other is made from Frame. How do I know which is which when I pick one up? Since I probably couldn't tell the differences, can they be used with synthetic oil or I would be safer to pick up a Pure One or similar?
I saw Kmart has Mobile1 and Castro, both Plus and regular.

Thanks

....

alternator · December 2001

My new 2002 Mazda Protege with 2.0 liter engine has the smallest automobile oil filter I've ever seen (Fram equivalent is a PH6607). Is this likely to be a problem? Is there a larger oil filter that will fit?

brorjace · December 2001

duper, actually I was referring to Honda OEM filters. The made-in-USA filters are the Filtech ones while the ones made-in-Canada are manufactured by Fram.

alternator, seeing a teensy, weensy oil filter never leaves me with a warm 'n fuzzy feeling. Some seem to be engineered JUST to get the job done but you can forget them for any kind of extended drain interval.

I'd look around in the aftermarket for something larger (longer/taller) ... provided you have room for it. This can be long and tedious process ... but one that can be worth it when you find a filter that has a significantly larger capacity.

--- Bror Jace

duper · December 2001

Opps...sorry for the mistake. After I went through hundreds of posts my head was spinning

.

What do you think of using Nissan OEM with synthetic? I bought a bunch of them a few months ago and like to know before I return them to the dealers.

Thanks

....

jlflemmons · December 2001

Be glad you never worked on a Fiat 850 Spyder. Didn't use a filter, you just changed oil at 1K to 1.5K miles.

duper · December 2001

I just picked up a Bosch Premium filter at Autozone and happened to find out that they are the same as STP and maybe using the same filter media as Mobil 1 from the site below.

http://ntpog.server101.com/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

This is how the Mobil 1 looked after 1000 miles with conventional oil from the tester.

....

armtdm · December 2001

The oil in the pic sure looked clean but I was not able to get much on the filter, were you saying the filter looked bad, full of gunk??

Nissan OEM are okay but I switched over to a larger filter when I had my Maximas and never had a problem.Manufacturers to save money and get more consistency in the filter sizes used are trying to use the same filter on multiple engines. I think this accoutns for the small canisters we find now.

hwhiteco · December 2001

I'm changing the oil in my new SUV/Vortec 6.0 liter engine at 3000 vi. using Mobil 1 oil. I believe the book calls for a PF 59 but I was going to use the UPF 59 Ultraguard Gold, which unfortunately was discontinued. I'm now considering either the Mobil 1 oil filter or the Purolator PureONE. Could any one tell me what the differences are between them, specs, media type, bypass valves, etc.? Also what is your opinion of my selections, & are there any other alternative suggestions that you may have, OEM or otherwise? Two concerns I have are, the earlier posts reportng a 10 psi. drop in oil pressure using the Mobil 1 oil filter on the 5.3 liter Vortec engines & how the factory warranty on the engine would be handled if attributed to, or connected to failure of an oil filter in any way. If the oil filter manufacturer's liability is limited to strictly the replacement of the defective filter & nothing else, then I think it's a no-brainer in sticking to OEM parts, & concludes the topic of "Oil Filters,who's is the best, and Why? Appreciate every ones help & thanks for your time.

Happy Holidays to All!

wtd44 · December 2001

Good point. The smaller cannister will "fit" in all spaces available, while the larger ones fit only certain "spacious" accomodations.

brorjace · December 2001

hwhiteco: If the oil filter manufacturer's liability is limited to strictly the replacement of the defective filter & nothing else, then I think it's a no-brainer in sticking to OEM parts, & concludes the topic of "Oil Filters,who's is the best, and Why?"

Many aftermarket manufacturers make high quality filters ... some better than OEM filters.

If warranty claims were common, all aftermarket suppliers would be out of business. Since the original auto manufacturer doesn't want your car to last forever, and probably isn't interested in an owner using synthetic oil and extended drain intervals, you can often do better than an OEM filter with some aftermarket units.

Often, the OEM filter is competent ... even very good ... but it does not mean we should not discuss the search for a better oil filter.

--- Bror Jace

zr2rando · December 2001

I made a new subject similar to this one about TRANSMISSION filters, same idea, who makes the best?
Just wanted to let you (and everyone else with filters on the brain) know to check it and add any input to that one like you have been contributing here about OIL filters...
Search on filter and you'll find it...thanks in advance for any input...
Now back to topic folks
Everyone ready for christmas?
see ya
Rando

hwhiteco · December 2001

We should continue to discuss the search for a better oil filter. Sorry my post came off wrong, I meant "if" I have to pay for an engine, then it concludes the topic for "me", not the Board. I do however, also think, that warranty polices are an essential part of this equation & need to discussed here in order for all of us to arrive at a reasonable conclusion for their particular situation. In my case, you could give me all the best filters on this planet for free, & if I had to pay for a total Vortec engine failure, even once, attributed to a defective aftermarket filter, that would not of cost me anything, if an OEM filter was defective, then my search has ended. So again, if anyone out there has specific answers on oil filter manufacturers warranty policies & which oil filters you'd recommend for my vehicle, I'd certainly appreciate it.

To All A Good Night
Ho, Ho, Ho,
Merry Christmas!

tsjay · December 2001

I think you make a good point about choosing your own filter rather than going with one that is "officially" approved for your particular vehicle. There is a risk involved, so one should be very sure he is getting a filter that will work on the vehicle for which it was bought.

I'm not saying we shouldn't substitute filters, just that we ought to be sure that we know what we're doing.

If an improper filter results in engine damage, then the vehicle manufacturer certainly cannot be held liable. Likewise, the filter manufacturer could legitimately say that they did not design that filter for the vehicle that you used it on.

Just be careful, that's all.

tom

adc100 · December 2001

Duper: the filter for all Nissans is the same -recently they went with the little dinky filter-on size fits all. You can use (in my opinion) the Pure One PL 14620 or the Mobil M1-110 which are significantly longer. If you check the back of the Pure One Filter book on about page 930-you will find that the siz of the head and bypass valve are the same. I have used both for my Sentra. I did notice that the threaded portion of the head is not as recessed on the PL 14620 as the l14622 which is recommended. So when you screw it on you want to make sure it does not bottom out on the male threads of the engine housing. This is not an issue with my 2001 Sentra. I assume that the bypass valve is the same for the Mobil 1 as the Pure One-but can not prove it.

altinator: Read the information I gave duper. As I said make sure that the larger Pure One filter does not bottom on the threaded portion of the engine housing and that they compress the gasket material. I have used both the Mobil 1 and Pure One on my Sentra. BTW-really like the Protege. Considered it when I bought my Sentra. My wife liked the seats better on the Sentra. Now that Nissan has deleted the extremely rugged and reliable SR20DE engine and gone to a new 2.5L. I wouldn't buy it.

brorjace · December 2001

I guess my approach to choosing oil filters is a bit different than yours, hwhiteco.

I assume that oil filters on the market that are manufactured by reputable companies will be at least competent and incapable of causing engine damage ... and subsequent warranty claims. Liability isn't an issue. My feeling is that the only thing that could cause actual damage would be a filter that was plugged. Only the most egregious defective filter could be in such a state and I've never seen or heard of this happening.

I asked tsjay a while back if he felt there was a brand of filter on the market today that was so poorly made that it could damage a vehicle by regular use. He said that he did not know of any.

I am guessing, but I bet that if you put an empty canister (no filter media) on an engine today and changed the oil (SJ or SL) every 3,000 miles, the motor would make it out of the warranty period and possibly past the 100,000 mile mark if driven normally.

Most of us know that for years some of the OEM filters were not the highest quality ... like the previous generation AC Delco filters, for example. So, seeking a better one from the aftermarket is a natural direction.

What I and the others are looking for in a better, aftermarket filter is either filtration for an extended period (for use with synthetic oil), greater flow (GPMs) for high-RPM driving (autocrossing or other amateur racing) or high-efficency filtration which will remove even the smallest particles from the oil for the longest possible durability. What adc100 describes Nissan as doing is what drives me and others to the aftermarket. In the name of expediency and saving space under the hood, a manufacturer moves to a dinky, one-size-fits-all filter that is less than optimum in many applications. At least with Honda, the oil filter size I'm familiar with that seems to fit all (or at least most) of their cars is of decent size. But, I'm always on the look out for a better one with greater flow, capacity and filtration ability. If I could fit a filter on my Honda Civic that caught everything down to the size of 5 microns, flowed 8-10gpms, was the size of a coffee can and cost $15-20 each, I would. I suppose I could go with a remote set-up featuring larger, multiple spin-on filters but with the extra plumbing necessary comes the possibilty for leaks and I don't believe it's worth the hassle. <:^(

Oil filter problems I've heard of, can imagine or experienced are:

1) Leaking at the gasket
2) Leaking internally ... letting dirty oil back into the motor
3) A bypass valve that opens too early and leaks internally
4) Ruptured canister
5) Low quality media which screens ineffectively.

I would expect none of these problems from a filter made by WIX, Hastings, Filtech, Purolator or most other quality aftermarket filter manufacturers. This is even ultra-rare for the cheaper filters I won't go near.

Even if you were to have a filter which you felt responsible for the destruction of an engine, good luck proving that to the manufacturer and getting a settlement. It had better be plugged solid and you better be able to show that it wasn't from something <i>you introduced to the crankcase.

--- Bror Jace

armtdm · December 2001

If you change your oil every 3000 miles I agree that you don't even need a filter.

hwhiteco · December 2001

The following first five paragraphs were taken directly off the Mobil web site.

MOBIL 1 LIMITED FILTER WARRANTY
Filters manufactured for Mobil are warranted to be free from defects in material and workmanship. Any filter proven defective during the engine or equipment manufacturer's recommended service intervals will be replaced at no charge.

In the event of an engine or equipment failure directly caused by a defective Mobil filter which was properly installed and changed following the engine or equipment manufacturer's recommended service intervals, Mobil will authorize repair of the damaged engine or equipment.

Claims for engine or equipment repairs provided under this warranty must be submitted within 30 days after discovery of damage. Mobil Technical Service representatives reserve the right to examine the engine or equipment and filter to determine the amount of damage and whether it was caused by a defective Mobil filter.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights. You have other rights which vary from state to state.

Mobil filters are designed to the original equipment requirements for fit and function. Engine and equipment manufacturer's warranties remain in effect when Mobil filters are used.

To all those out there that believe that the ultimate filter should have the best of everything, including warranty policies, I thought you might find this info useful. IMHO, if you're comparing an oil filter to one that's currently rated as "the best" & can at least meet all performance specs, construction quality, durability, oil analysis results, or anything else you can possibly favorably compare & the end result is that all factors wind up being equal with the exception of one filter having a favorable written warranty while the other does not, then the one with the warranty wins "the best filter award" hands down, every time, regardless of how remote the possibility of failure is, (seems like Mobil admits this is a possibility in writing), or what difficulty may be encountered in proving it, (if it's during the new car warranty, let the vehicle & filter manufacturers fight it out). To me it's like having the option of buying one of two identical cars, especially if at the same price, & only one had a warranty, I know what my choice would be. I don't know how the "others" regard warranties on filters, maybe the thought never occurred to them & it needs to be brought to their attention, but to me it's part of being the best, so if there's anyone else out there that either thinks like me, &/or has warranty info on other filter brands, along with the technical info, it would certainly help me, & who knows, it may even enlighten a few "others" & allow them to avoid the expense of having to pay for a repair out of their pocket unnecessarily. Personally, with all other factors being equal, I can't see how having a "good" warranty could ever be "bad" & if engine damage could never be caused by a defective oil filter, then I'd like to see that in writing too------by the filter manufacturer.

adc100 · December 2001

I think that I have come to full circle. I know it has been proven that better filtering can increase engine life. Yet I keep going back to the test Mobil did where they replaced filters at 7.5 K and Changed oil at 15K. There was almost no engine wear after 200K. The filters they used were probably your basic AC Delco which weren't too hot in 1991-1992 when the tests were done. I'm starting to be a little fearful in winter time with the 98% Pure one and Mobil 1 filters. Especially since I do extended drain intervals. I have gone to oversize filters and that helps. I have used a K&N in my son's 2001 GrandAm (also oversize). I plan on going that route with my next filter change on my Sentra (also oversize). K&N advertises 90% efficiency with 9-12 GPM vs 3 gpm for Pure One. Now it may be that the total delivered oil flow may not be that different but I'm thinking perhaps more flow is better. I also think that with conventional oil and high efficiency filters in winter time (using the factory small-one-size fits all) probably causes a lot of bypassing with no filtering. Who knows.

zr2rando · December 2001

check back at post 328 and 335, even a low efficiency filter will get more efficient as it starts to collect dirt, main thing is for the oil to go through the filter rather than bypass, filter only does its job if oil goes through it!
I am trying a pureone right now and after about 1500 miles my oil looks just like it always does at that mileage (I also switched to Havoline from Castrol and I think the Havoline has a little better detergent action and may be cleaning up some!!)I think I am going to go with the AC filters anyhow (the Kmart version)
Gettin ready for the new year everyone?
see y'all
Rando

brorjace · December 2001

Rando,
What do you mean about the K-mart version of AC filters? Are you talking their Castrol or Penske brand? I'm pretty sure those are made by WIX.

--- Bror Jace

wain · December 2001

I wonder if all the oil filter official tests are done at cold temperatures, but then if bipass happenned there it would stop as the oil warmed, probably in a minute or two.

zr2rando · December 2001

The Kmart version and the Walmart version (at least for the AC pf52) only share the blue paint on the can. Cut them open and it is obvious they are different mfg, can is different thickness, inside tube holes are bigger in the Kmart, deeper (and less uniform) pleats in the Kmart, Kmart paper looks thicker, Kmart version has a rubber anti-backflow valve that is also the element tensioner, Walmart version uses a leaf spring for tension. The Mopar study that has all the good pictures shows a Kmart version. The Castrol filters are made by Wix, (looks like the penski/white Castrol may be the same only $1 different, Black Castrol looks like better paper) only thing I did not like about them was the top of the element has a raised pattern like flower petals that the metal inlet sits on, almost looks like it would bypass some oil through there, maybe, maybe not, it IS a tight fit. An earlier post in this topic someone mentioned that mfg'rs had different quality levels (original engine plant/dealer/aftermarket....etc)this must be a good example of it I guess...it is interesting to me...
Try a few different kinds and after you replace them cut them open it may surprise you.
See you in a bit.
Rando

joe111 · December 2001

adc100--in your previous post(543), you mentioned a test done by Mobile. You stated that they changed oil at 15000 miles and changed filters at 7500 miles. Is that correct or did you turn it around? Most maintenance schedules call for oil changes at 7500 and filter changes at 15000 miles. My Honda just hit 15000 miles and I'm debating wether I should change the filter with every oil change(for me 5000 miles) or every other change(10000 miles). I guess over the long haul it would be smarter to change the filter with every oil change. Somebody once told me it would be crazy to change oil and not change the filter too, even though the Honda maintenance schedule doesn't call for a filter change with every oil change. Anybody care to comment?

adc100 · December 2001

My mistake. They changed oil and filter at the same time. To me its plain crazy to change oil and not change the filter.

brorjace · December 2001

Rando, I was a little surprised to hear that there are two different AC Delco filters in the same number ... but I shouldn't be. The same is true for OEM Honda filters. The American one is made by Filtch and I'm 98% sure the Canadian one is made by Fram ... and they are radically different when cut open. I used to do this all the time but now it's a rarity because I stick to a couple brands I trust.

Having said that, I suppose I'll chop up my Hastings when I pull it off my car in June. It's the first one of these I've used on my car.

I was curious to know the differences between the Penske and two grades of Castrol filters. outside, they are virtually identical. I assumed that the difference between the white and black Castrol filters was the filter media ... from the claims at better filtration on the box. The black box (premium) filter claims to trap more dirt and are about $1 more. What they don't tell you is that it is also more restrictive and is likely to plug up earlier ... activating the by-pass valve and ceasing to filter. still, I thought enough of it to put one on my twin cylinder Honda garden tractor. >;^D

And yes, I think it's silly to leave an old filter on a car after an oil change. The dirtiest oil is in the filter, you run the risk of them getting plugged with too much contaminant and if anything, they should be replaced MORE OFTEN than the oil.

--- Bror Jace

Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?

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