Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

1356768

Comments

  • yardbirdyardbird Member Posts: 30
    Does anybody know of any fix to a seat belt that won't retract(short of bringing it back in under warranty)??
    My driver side seat belt will not retract back in, making the snugness very lax and looking like a bent-out-of-shape rubber band(not to mention safety).
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Your best bet is to go back to the dealer and have the retractor replaced. I am not sure how good your dealer is about warranty work, but mine would simply replace it. This is smart from a customer service standpoint and also for Hyundai, because if they see defect claims they can (hopefully) take corrective action. More importantly, your dealer should understand it as a safety issue.
  • sbilheimersbilheimer Member Posts: 4
    The whistle isn't loud, but it is very high-pitched. It cycles every 45-48 seconds and lasts for 8-10 seconds. It is painful to hear (like a dog whistle to a dog!!!). It increases in intensity as the car increases in speed and heats up, especially when I have gotten up to over 40 mph. Susan
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The seat belts should be covered under the government-mandated passive restraint system warranty, which I think runs even longer than the 5 year/60,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. Check your warranty booklet for details. In any case, it is a safety hazard and you can portray it as such to the dealer to get quick action.

    Re A/C whistle, that is defintely not the same noise as my Elantra has--mine has a soft high-pitched noise that is not hard to listen to at all. I wonder if it could be a slipping belt on the A/C? They can make high-pitched noises. What does the dealer say about it? If they claim it is normal, ask to drive another car off their lot with the mechanic with you to see if it has the same noise.
  • litolpealitolpea Member Posts: 4
    howdie all. i am reading through the posts, and actually printing them out to bring to my dealership later this month, since i am experiencing the infamous door rattle and fuel door stick as well.
    hey, all cars have quirks, and that is why warranties were made. haha. anyhooo...
    i only have 9000 miles on my car and i am starting to get a grinding noise when i stop. not when i ease into a stop mind you..but if i stop on a hill, or come to a sudden stop OR when i start to ease to a stop, then press a little harder on the brakes for the final stop...
    i only got the car, brand new, in sept. and since then, i have taken a road trip to colorado (from ohio) and have driven into the mountains, as well as across kansas in a white out snow storm..
    all the time the car performed FLAWLESSLY. i even had my 6k check before i left colorado and they said all was fine...

    do you think that this trip may have caused this?
    should rotors/brakes go bad within a year? i have never had that happen before with my other cars..
    i am assuming rotors and brakes are a wear and tear item not covered by warranty? is this true? (i am new to the warranty scene)...
    and if it is true...if they go bad within a year, isnt that justification to have them covered?

    ps.. i have a 2001 elantra gls...

    thanks!
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    Is it grinding or squealing? The difference is significant.
    Also, has the actual stopping performance changed, i.e. is it taking longer to stop?
    Is this grinding coming from the front (disc) brakes or from the drums (rear)?
    If from the front, are the rotors scored?

    Disc brakes squeal even when there is a lot of 'meat' on the pads. To correct this, anti-squeal compound is put on the backs of the pads.

    When they get worn down, the wear indicators cause a deliberate squealing, telling the owner that they need to be changed.

    If it is a squeal and you have a lot of pad left (which you should after only 9000 miles) and the rotor is not scored, then try spraying the pads with brake cleaner and see if that helps.

    Brakes are a wear and tear item and would not normally be covered under warranty, as far as I know. At best they might pro-rate your brakes, but I would bet that they don't have to.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Most (all?) states have laws that govern "implied" warranties on products. I am not a lawyer, but an implied warranty is basically an informal warranty to the effect "the product should perform in a certain way under normal condiitons, and if it fails to do that the manufacturer must fix it." One example would be brakes. Brakes on modern cars are expected to last far longer than 9000 miles under normal conditions. If your dealer balks at fixing the brakes under the regular warranty, you might take it up the ladder and claim that it is implied that brakes will last longer than that. I haven't read the whole Hyundai warranty lately (and I'm not going to go out in my cold garage at this time of night and do that), but it is possible that there is a clause in it that negates "implied" warranties.
  • yardbirdyardbird Member Posts: 30
    Got the problem solved. Apparently the belt had twisted around causing the retraction to drag.I could'nt figure how to untwist it cause there was so little room in the "buckle slit" which feeds the belt through behind my left shoulder. I got advice saying to pull the belt all the way out till I reach the end-of-the-line. The twist popped around and corrected itself. Good as new!
  • litolpealitolpea Member Posts: 4
    hey guys..thanks for the info on my brake rotor deal...and to answer your q, it is a not a squeal. it is a dull grind/smudge like sound (for lack of better description..)
    only when it completes the stop..
    i havent noticed anything different in the braking patterns tho..
    and i checked out hyundais warranty and they are covered for a year or 12000 miles.
    i agree with backy tho, they should last way longer than 9k miles...so even if i had more than 12k on it, i would fight it. hehehe
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I just read your brake noise dilemma. If your car is automatic, could it just be the normal "tug" of the engine resisting your brake pedal pressure? Does it stop if you press harder on the brake or shift to neutral? Just wondering ...
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    I used my A/C today for the first time (15 miles trip), and noticed a metallic scraping/grinding noise as others have posted. It's very light, and only comes on with the compressor. I tried to duplicate the sound by keeping the engine at 2200 rpm (in a parking lot), but it seems it only happens while driving (the compressor cycled on and off during my check).
    Did anyone get this repaired... what did it turn out to be?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Took my '01 GLS in for its oil/filter change and asked then to check on the squeaking sound from depressing the clutch, and also to check out a rattle. They made short work of the clutch squeak by replacing the throw bearing in the tranny--works great now. But when they called me to tell me my car was ready, the service writer said the tech determined the rattle was a "normal sound for all manual transmission cars." LOL! I respectfully disagreed and I went for a drive with the tech when I got to the dealership. After a five-minute drive in which the rattle popped off just as I told them it would, the tech was convinced it was not normal. I told him about the conduit under the dash that was traced to a rattle by someone on one of the Elantra boards here, in case it would help. It seems to be deep in the dash or even in the engine compartment. Anyway, I'm going to leave the car with them all day tomorrow and let them sniff around (using their shuttle service to/from the office).
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    I got Hyundai's top model for the morning while they installed my spoiler. Nice car...but not crazy about the drive by wire set up (too touchy)
  • smiller678smiller678 Member Posts: 64
    Hi all,

    I guess this could be my first problem on my 01 Elantra GLS. My driver side front left yellow reflector light went out. What I don't know how to do is replace the bulb. Do you have to remove the yellow plastic lenses. If so how do you do that?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Happy motoring

    Shawn
  • ross2764ross2764 Member Posts: 3
    2002 Elantra, currently about 5000 miles. Starting about a month ago, 2nd to 3rd gear shifts very clunky especially when cold. Feels like tranny is going to fall out. Also, tranny doesn't downshift and feels like it is searching for which gear to be in. If I had to describe the process I would say it was "Hunting and clunking". Anyone else have similar experiences? I am going to make an appointment soon (very busy). This is the fourth service related issue with my vehicle. Car delivered with an unbalanced wheel. Next visit for a broken windshield wiper motor. Another visit for a broken power mirror motor and now I have to make appointment for a transmission that feels like it is failing. This combined with all the rattles and buzzes described in previous posts is making me feel like I made a poor decision purchasing this vehicle.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    My Elantra is now rattle-free! I left it with my dealer's senior Hyundai tech all day (no, jofficer, I did not take them up on their offer of a free loaner but instead rode their door-to-door shuttle to work; I'd have to pay $15.00/day for parking for the loaner car, plus gas). They traced the rattle to two A/C lines rubbing together. While they were at it, they also retorqued all the suspension and chassis bolts and tied down the fuel line. Whatever they did, I can hardly believe the difference. The car feels brand-new, like it's carved out of a solid block of steel again. And with the new throwout bearing in the tranny, the clutch is butter-smooth. The car would be darned-near perfect now if it were not for the dog puke interior. 8-)

    P.S. Anyone in the Twin Cities looking for a GLS or GT, looks like Denny Hecker's Rosedale Hyundai has lots of them, all lined up out front. They have lots of Sonatas on the lot too.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Thanks for the info on rattle-relief. When it comes to interior noises I have been conditioned to not bother asking service folks to locate the source(s); most can't seem to duplicate, or claim that. I might just take a copy of your comments and see about getting it done. Mine are so minor, but the quiet interior makes them noticeable (and I want ONLY silence).

    Approaching 11,000 miles with no problems; in fact, Betsy III seems as smooth and quick as new.
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    ross2764 said --

    "This is the fourth service related issue with my vehicle. Car delivered with an unbalanced wheel. Next visit for a broken windshield wiper motor. Another visit for a broken power mirror motor and now I have to make appointment for a transmission that feels like it is failing. This combined with all the rattles and buzzes described in previous posts is making me feel like I made a poor decision purchasing this vehicle."

    I am sorry to hear of the troubles you are having with this car. Maybe if this were to persist you should consider trying to get the car replaced under the "Lemon Law".

    Not all Hyundais have the problems you are having. For instance, I have had 4 since 1989 and have not had any of the problems that you have had. My problems had to do with crappy busings in the 1989 Sonata and 1993 Elantra GL that "going" and leading to clunking in the suspension. This was essentially cured in my 1996 Elantra.

    My 2002 GT has no problems thus far and I have over 5000 miles on mine as well.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Well, the rattle/buzz at around 2500 rpm when lifting off the clutch has returned, after being banished for half-a-day. It does seem to be lessened from before, but it's defintely there and shows up in the same circumstances. I called the Hyundai service manager today to give her the bad news. She said she'd tell the Hyundai senior tech, and I'll bring it back for another try in a few days, when a part I ordered comes in. It felt so good when this noise was gone, I want to kill it for good.
  • ohiohoboohiohobo Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2001 Elantra in May of 2001. In January 2002 with 12,401 miles on the car I had to replace both low beam bulbs. Today, is April 14, 2002 and I noticed that the low beam on the driver side is out again. Has anyone seen this issue before? I drive with my headlights on at all times but I have never seen bulbs burn out this quickly.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Forgive me for asking, but why do you drive with lights on at all times? I understand the reasoning behind DRL (safety), but my guess would be that a car is indeed running when I see it moving.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    Ohiohobo - you may just be suffering from bad luck in getting defective bulbs, but there are a couple of things that could make the bulbs burn out early. First, check that both of the headlight assemblies are bolted to the car securely. If they are rattling, the vibration could cause premature light failure. Second, check the voltage regulator. If your voltage is too high, it could shorten the life of the bulbs. (The headlight sure do burn brighter in the meantime, though!).

    As for driving with your lights on during the day, I'm right there with you. I've been in two severe accidents where drivers turned in front of me because they didn't see me coming, and I figure that the extra visibility afforded by having the lights on is worth it.
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    The last car I had with one was a '64 VW Bug.
    Drive with my lights on......Hell yhea.... too many old people around here that seem to look through you. The lights seem to catch there attention! I'm so glad these cars turn the lights off for you, though. I've needed a jump more than once in other's that don't!
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    Joffficer - I'd be amazed if the GT's regulator was adjustable. My best guess is that it's incorporated into the alternator like most other cars nowadays. I'll take a look at my factory manual at home tonight and see what the check procedure is for it.

    Not to pick on old folks, (but I'm gonna do it anyway), the second of my two not-seen accidents was an 83 year old lady hanging a left in front of my motorcycle. I flew over her hood and landed on my head, helmeted of course. A cop later told me "She was so high on her medication that she literally didn't know she'd been in an accident. She'da kept right on going if your bike wasn't jammed under her bumper!"

    Yup. Headlights all the time now.
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    This past Easter I was doing some planting in my garden. I have a car I keep parked on the road (older toyota), and have become accustomed to dings. I heard the smack of another car hitting my bumper, and ran to see what happened. A lady (had to be 80) was trying to leave......hit and run! Luckily I had my phone and called the police. She later told me her foot slipped off the brake. It looked more like she didn't know where she was on the road! Luckily there was no major damage.
    If this had been my new Hyundai I would have been VERY angry.
    There should be a MANDATORY retest for driving after age 55. I know this would be a pain for many, but it sure would help. I gave up my motorcycle after three very close calls in one week (all having to do with old people)!
    This would be a great Edmunds Townhall discussion, but it would probably be squashed.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    Sure enough, the voltage regulator is integrated into the alternator. With the engine running, the voltage across the battery should be between 14 and 14.7 volts. More than that and you probably need to get the regulator changed out.
  • chaimestchaimest Member Posts: 6
    I bought my Elantra GLS in the beginning of January and have also noticed the annoying whistle whenever the A/C is on. I notice it mostly while accelerating or braking. Does anyone know anything more about this?
    Also, I sometimes hear a rattle coming from the dashboard, sounds like it's coming from the speedometer area. Any ideas?
    Thanks
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    The noise you are describing is so commonly reported by Elantra owners that I'm half convinced that it's normal. (See posts 99-104 on this board.) The air in my '02 GT makes the same noise that you're describing, but it happens for about 3-4 seconds at intervals of about 30 seconds to a minute. In my case, braking and accelerating don't seem to have any affect on it. I seem to recall that an owner in one of the Elantra forums got it fixed with the dealer's replacement of some sort of valve. My admittedly uneducated guess is that it's the whistle of coolant being pumped through a valve into the evaporator coils when the compressor cycles on. I'm going to let mine go as is, and see if it gets worse. If it does, that'll be when Hyundai's warranty comes in handy.
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    Let it go until it gets louder, or stops working (within the warranty). I did tell the Hyundai tech about it (while it was in for the transmission TBS), and he tightened the belt. Of course that didn't change anything.... hope he didn't go to tight!
  • sbilheimersbilheimer Member Posts: 4
    I posted message #99. Trust me, you will get no satisfaction from Hyundai about this noise. There is no fix. They attempted to fix it five times. They replaced my evaporator and my expansion valve, moved it, rotated it, and shifted it a hundred different ways. An engineer gave his opinion that the design of the valve is flawed (too small or the shape is wrong). A mechanic wrote that Hyundai tried to unsuccessfully change the design. The Hyundai Tech Line said there was no fix. Someone from my dealership finally admitted that to me as well. So Hyundai simply minimizes the problem. I have filed a Lemon Law claim and am going to the Better Business Bureau shortly for arbitration. They do not dispute the noise. They simply (and arrogantly) say that the noise wouldn't bother them and I'm oversensitive. If I win, this means it will be easier for other people to win a case so that they won't have to put up with having to spend their hard-earned money and have a painfully distracting noise THAT HYUNDAI KNEW WAS A PROBLEM for the next several years. And maybe Hyundai will finally fix this problem in their cars. If anyone would be willing to speak with me about their problem too, please write me at sbilheimer@techwritingmkt.com. This noise is not just an annoyance to me. It is painful, and is a substantial impairment to the use, value, and safety of the car. NO ONE would buy that car who heard that incessant squeal. Any of those criteria are what one has to meet for a Lemon Law claim. Thanks, Susan
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I have a friend who immediately takes any problem he has with goods or services straight to the top. Even though you are having difficulty down the Hyundai food chain, maybe a letter to Finnbar O'Neill (Hyundai USA CEO) would shift results in your favor. A New York Times article on him painted a portrait of a man very interested in customer satisfaction. Worth a shot!
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    Susan and others --

    For those who have reported this noise, I empathize. However, I do not feel that it is characteristic of the Hyundai AC system. I have not heard any noise from my AC system and I use it pretty much all the time in Houston.

    In my 1989 Sonata I did have a noisy compressor clutch that used to "clack" every time it engaged, but no whine.

    I suspect that it must be a problem with select cars as opposed to across the line.

    Nevertheless, they should be able to fix it.
  • denrob50denrob50 Member Posts: 1
    I've had my Elantra 2000 GLS for 28 months. I've put 48,000 miles on it with a lot of high speed, long distance driving.

    I usually get about 30 mph (at 65 to 75 mph). I upgraded to the CD, six speaker sound system.. what a smart move on my part. I'd go for more braking power and a bigger engine, but I've really enjoyed my car; no noises or rattles.

    Recently, the trans started to slip or stall in gear. Sometimes it would seem to hang up in a gear, then go into gear and surge forward. I put two quarts of trans fluid in it, and that seemed to correct the problem... for a while. The slippage is just now starting to reoccur (three months). My new mechanic said that he had heard that some of the Hyundai trans had been installed too tightly at the factory. This was causing the seals to break down and allowing the fluid to weep out. I'm getting set to make an appointment with the dealership for repairs or replacement.

    This is really a hassle for me because I can't be withot a car. I've read some of the posted notes and there was mention of a "loner car". Who do I ask about that? Or a cheap rental? Will I get a hassle from the service department on the repairs?

    Any advice is better than were I am now. I havn't dealt with a dealership service department in over 20 years. My long time mechanic (30 years) recently died, so I am forced to use a new mechanic. He suggested I use the dealership because of the warranty. Thanks for any help.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    My understanding of the loaner policy is that it depends on the dealer. I checked www.hyundaiusa.com, and it says "Free loan car transportation up to 5 days on warranty or campaign / recall services." It also says, "at participating dealers only." When I bought my Elantra, the dealer made a big deal out of their policy to provide a free loaner (Neon or similar) if they must keep the car overnight. So be sure to check on your dealer's policy. Even if they don't provide a free loaner, they may have an arrangement with a rental company to provide loaners at a low rate.
  • colcaycolcay Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Elantra GLS automatic. I love my car, but when I first drive it after it's been sitting and the engine is cold, it shifts like crap. The shifts range from jerky to shift flares. This is only when the car is cold, after 10 minutes or so and the engine has warmed up, it shifts fine.

    Also, when I first turn over the engine, it revs to about 1500 rpm and stays there a few seconds, slowly working it's way down to normal idle speed. But sometimes it'll rev to 1500 rpm, and immediately drop down to normal idle speed. Is this normal as well? And why isn't it consistent?

    This is my first automatic car and I wasn't sure if these are common traits. Thanks for any comments.
  • egocentricegocentric Member Posts: 7
    On my Elantra GT I just noticed that the little cargo space cover (that rises and falls with the hatchback door) is slightly malformed. It's a little twisted to the right, so it doesn't go down all the way without serious effort. In fact, since I didn't notice it right away, it looks like it's created a slight a abrasion on the plastic molding that's beside it. Has anyone else seen this? Is this covered under warranty (the car is 3 days old!)?
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    If you have a good dealer (as I do), they will simply order you a new cover. My GLS had a slight flaw in the fabric door insert and they replaced the entire panel.
  • mehginousmehginous Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I am seriously thinking about buying an Alantra mostly because Hyndai offers such a great warrenty. What I want to know is if it is a dependable car that would last until or past its warrenty, also if delerships are good about fixing the car and the problems are minimal. So far I see that there could be problems with the transmission and air conditioning, but overall is the car good quality...would you recommend buying one.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    It depends on what you're looking for. If you want a solid, comfortable compact sedan and would rather not pay the premium for a car like the Corolla or Civic, then it's a great buy. Will it last for 10 years? If you don't abuse it and do scheduled maintenance, especially oil changes, there's no reason why any car today shouldn't last for 10 years or more. At least you know that there is a 10-year powertrain warranty. Are Hyundai dealerships good at fixing problems? Well, mine is OK, but dealerships vary--with Hyundai just as with most other makes. If you want a great dealer, buy a Saturn, Jaguar, Saab, Lexus, Cadillac, Lincoln, Infiniti, MB, Volvo, or Buick--those were the top ten rated automakers for dealer experience in Consumer Reports. Hyundai was near the bottom, but with a wide range--so there are some good dealers. If you let us know your geographical area you might get some recommendations from owners about good dealerships (or not so good dealerships) in your area.

    What transmission problems were you referring to? The "flare" problem? That is easily correctable with a software update. With the A/C problem mentioned by some owners, you can help avoid that by running the A/C on your (long) test drive and listen for any odd noises. But it's hard to avoid all problems in a car--your safest bet there would be Toyota, Infiniti, or Subaru. Check out the Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla boards and see the problems reported by those owners--radios winking out and lots of squeaks/rattles on the Civic, and vague-bordering-on-unsafe steering on the Corolla (problem or feature?). Elantra has its share of problems, but so do competing cars.
  • ipse_dixitipse_dixit Member Posts: 24
    Edmunds has had an Elantra GLS in its long-term test fleet for 12 months now with no mention of any A/C noise. Why not ask them (editor@edmunds.com) if they have experienced similar noises?
  • ctranterctranter Member Posts: 4
    I noticed getting out of my 2002 GLS (2000 miles) this morning that there was what appeared to be a scratch on the drivers door jam right next to the window seal. Upon closer inspection I noticed that it looks like tape bent in half and stuck to itself so that it creates about a 2 inch bubble right on the jamb. Upon closer inspection around the inside corners of the jamb it looks like all the window frames are covered with tape. Anyone else seen this "bunching" problem yet? What did you do?
  • tnjackietnjackie Member Posts: 19
    Does anyone have the downshifting problem that I do on my 2002 Elantra with 2800 miles on it? I am not getting the gas mileage I should because whenever I come to a small hill or incline the car downshifts. Am I the only one with the shift flare problem and the downshift problem? I had a 1987 Celica with 15 less horsepower and it never did this. Please respond. Thanks.
  • ross2764ross2764 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same issues reported in post 136. I brought the car to the dealer and they had to update the software for the transmission. The existing version of the software was corrupt and Hyundai issued a TSB regarding this issue. The fix took about one hour and now the vehicle shifts great. The update made a huge difference.
  • suet5suet5 Member Posts: 2
    I've had a 2002 elantra GT for about four months, and it has around 2000 miles. I have a 5- speed manual transmission. When I come to a stop and depress the clutch pedal, the engine races up to 1500, and then slows to normal idle as described in message number 85. The car does another unnerving thing, though not consistently. I find if I remove my feet from clutch, gas & brake, the car zips right along at 5-10 mph in 1st, and accelerates to 20 mph in 2nd gear! It goes even faster in 3rd, but then stalls. Finally parallel parking in the Hyundai requires strenuous effort. The car tends to stall in reverse unless I gun the motor, and then jerks of course when I release the clutch. What gives? Any ideas? I would like to go to the dealer prepared with a suggestion.
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    suet5 --

    I believe that the throttle position sensor might be defective or might need adjusting. This problem does sound related to the problem jimpimms had in msg 85.

    I also noticed the engine *sometimes* racing up in speed after coming to a stop and depress the clutch pedal. It also motors along quite nicely in 1st gear after coming to an almost complete stop, pressing the clutch and then smoothly letting it back out. I never tried seeing what it would do in second gear. No reverse problems here.

    I went to the dealer and naturally they could not reproduce the problem. The service "adviser" said that it was behaving as it should and that the EC (computer) was doing a heel-and-toe for me. Well, I thought that it was a pile of crap at the time but I did not have time to argue.

    Now that you mention this problem, it seems as though I am not the only one with this experience. Please let me/us know what happens at the dealership. Mine will be due for a service soon and I will insist this time that they fix my TPS. My email is wmoses@houston.rr.com.
  • generategenerate Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Elantra wagon That I purchased new. It normally runs perfectly. Intermitently the engine will die when I brake. Mechanics have had the car for over a week and cannot duplicate the problem. It will run without any problem from a few miles to several hundred. The car only has 23,000 miles on it. My impression is that it seems to become starved for gas. When the problem occurs, the engine also runs rough for a while. It has always restarted after dying. Has anyone else had this problem.
  • jhnep1jhnep1 Member Posts: 9
    I am the only person that owns an 02 Elantra that has had persistent wind noise and hood vibration while driving. Do you all work for Hyundai? Hyundai says they have never had a complaint about it and gave me a case number to give to the dealer. They want the dealer to simulate the noise and come up with a fix for it. The dealer has had one other complaint about the howling the wind makes under the hood when driving into the wind. I posted on March 14th and NO ONE HAS HAD THIS PROBLEM?
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    jhnep1 said --

    "I am the only person that owns an 02 Elantra that has had persistent wind noise and hood vibration while driving."

    I have had 4 Hyundais (earliest neing a 1989 Sonata) and have never had any wind noise problem -- from under the hood or elsewhere.

    This is not a fault of the make of car, and maybe the lack of response would serve to indicate that your problem is a "one-off".

    The hood vibration can be easily cured by tightening the hood when it is closed. There are usually adjustable bumpers that will allow this to happen.

    As for the wind noise -- I am at a loss to know how you could hear this from under the hood while driving, over and above the noise of the engine. Nevertheless, I am sure that of you use a piece of cardboard and a wind baffle in different places under the hood, you could more accurately diagnose what is causing the problem, and then know how to fix it. The dealer might be glad to have that information.

    As for the windshield wiper blade bowing under snow and ice ... use a winter blade with a rubber boot over it. That is what I did when I lived in Canada for 20 years. Never a problem with wiper blades in winter.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I've owned a '01 GLS for 19 months and have driven several other GLSes from the '00-'02 model years as rentals. I also drove a GT once. No wind noise or hood vibration in any of them, even in strong winds. But it sounds like Hyundai is at least taking you seriously and trying to find a fix. You might ask the dealer to please loan you another car (an XG350, say ;-) ) while they diagnose and fix the problem on yours.
  • gmcbride73gmcbride73 Member Posts: 6
    Three Hyundais, Two Elantras and NO wind or hood problems. Sorry your having problems.
Sign In or Register to comment.