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Comments
thx Pauline
SENDING UNIT
I let it cool down a short while and checked the reservoir--it was full. I drove a few blocks and the temp guage went right up to the top. I then popped the hood and found the reservoir empty. I added a bit of 50/50 and tried again. Only got a few blocks more before the same thing.
I intend to go back tomorrow when the engine is truly cold and see if I can get it to the mechanics place before it overheats. However, any suggestions? I know the thermostat could be at fault, although I'm not familiar with where it is or how to know if it's broken. Maybe I should just try replacing it anyway?
Suggestions are appreciated. I bought the car from a friend and know it wasn't having problems before this.
SERVICE MANUAL
Applies to: Elantra 1998-2000 and Tiburon 2000
GROUP
Engine Mechanical System Cooling System
DISASSEMBLY And INSPECTION
Drain the coolant down to thermostat level or below.
Remove the coolant outlet fitting and gasket.
Remove the thermostat.
Immerse thermostat in hot coolant to check proper valve opening temperature. Replace if necessary.
SPECIFICATION
Valve Opening Temperature 82°C (177°F)
Full Opening Temperature 95°C (205°F)
Valve Lift (at full open) 8.5 mm (0.33 in) or more
SERVICE MANUAL
Applies to: Elantra 1998-2000
GROUP
Engine Mechanical System Cooling System
REASSEMBLY
Check that the flange of the thermostat is correctly seated in the socket of the thermostat housing.
Install a new gasket and the coolant outlet fitting.
Refill the system with clean coolant.
****************************************************
I was driving my son's 2005 5 speed Elantra and something doesn't seem
right with the throttle. When I take my foot off the gas as I shift, the
engine doesn't seem to slow down enough. It seems to maintain a higher RPM
than it should.
I did some tests and found:
1) At idle, if I give it enough gas to get to maybe 2500 RPM or higher then
let off the gas, the RPMs seem to drop as they should until about 1500 RPMs
where it seems to pause for a fraction of a second then drops down to 750 or
so.
2) If I am just "cruising" in 4th gear at, say 2500 RPMs and simultaneously
take my foot off the gas and push in the clutch, the engine speeds up to
2700 or 2750 RPMs for a fraction of a second then drops down to idle, with
maybe a pause at 1500 again.
Has anyone else noticed this with their 5 speed Elantra?
Could some of you run some tests like I described above and see if, perhaps,
this is normal?
I watched the throttle mechanism during test 1 above and there doesn't seem
to be any hang-up there. It slams shut as soon as the pedal is released. I
am sure it is the computer that is keeping up the RPMs.
No Check Engine Light or other indication of a fault.
Thanks in advance.
PeteCal
It seems to me that this could be a fuel consumption issue. Pulsing up between shifts, etc.
If it was my car, it would be in to the dealer ASAP. My son makes his own decisions. Has anyone taken theirs in to find out what the dealer says?
PeteCal
Jim
I will check the links for markings when they come in. Because of the holiday, that will probably be early next week.
even then, it started and I drove it home. It's just that way. It would be easier if it broke permanently!.
My symptom: Engine would die while driving. Pull over and wait 2 minutes...engine would start again.
I guess my point is, it could be just about anything. But if there are no codes in the computer, it could be something like what I had on the Escort.
Something to note: The two frame-like beams running the length of the undercarriage are not strong enough to lift using a floor jack. I bent the passenger's side a good half inch
The bar was quite easy to install, but the nuts on the link ends were super tight. I ended up using an impact wrench to get them loose.
I used a little silicon grease on the bushings when I installed just to be sure there were no squeaks.
If you haven't done this mod, and you want your Elantra to handle more like a go-kart, go for it.
Wait till I catch one of those Protoge's on the twisties. They will learn the difference between "zoom-zoom" and bye-bye.
I just ordered a new sway bar after I got a 55511-2C000 with a yellow mark. It was my understanding I should have had a green mark. The guy ordered one -2C000 and one 2C100; both had a green mark and both were thicker than the -2C000 I had that had a yellow mark. He gave me the -2C000 with the green mark and it's noticeably better than the one with the yellow mark. There are different bushings required by the two bars; if I had the 18 mm bar and bushings for the 19, there may have been too much play. Hyundai's documents don't make it very clear, either.
Did I say how much fun this sucker is???
No. The GT (and GLS hatch) comes with a 15 mm sway bar; GLS sedan comes with 13.
Or is it only on the Tiburon? And is it the current generation Tiburon sway bar which fits the '01 to '06 Elantra?
The current gen Tibby bar will fit Elantras, but right now even the Tibby GTs only have 18 mm sway bars, I think. To get the 19, you have to get the 03 Tibby GT sway bar. The Hyundai part number is 55511-2C000; make sure it has a GREEN mark (tell the parts depart it must have the green mark which is for 19 mm; a yellow mark means 18 mm). You have to check the color and not depend on the part number marking; I've ordered the sway bar three times from the dealer, and twice the color did not match up with the part number. The guys at the warehouse apparently don't pay too much attention.
Also, if you buy the new sway bar, you need to replace the sway bar bushings as well. The combinations are:
19 mm sway bar: 55511-2C000 (one required) (green spot!)
bushings: 55513-2C110 (two required)
18 mm sway bar: 55511-2C100 (one required) (yellow spot)
bushings: 55513-27050 (two required)
I cannot speak to the numbers others are getting from their dealers, but these numbers were double checked before ordering and I got what I asked for.
Jim
I think the dealers do their best to get the right parts, but the warehouse is VERY lax about distinguishing between 18 and 19 mm bars. I have a question for you, since you say you have the 55513-27050 bushings: On my bushings, there is a diameter marking and the number 17.5. This tells me the opening in the rubber piece is 17.5 mm, resulting in an interference fit that ensures a snug pivot joint. Do your 27050 bushings have the same marking? Or do they have a different number? (It's a molded-in number on the side of the bushing that would be visible when it is installed- on the face with the big hole through it.)
I had a mistake in my earlier post; the 19mm wrench was a very snug fit around the bar, and the 18mm wouldn't even come close to fitting around it.
Just the bar was $71.62. List for that part is $82.52.
(new, improved indeed!)
2. No. Ride will be the same, just less body roll. On very rough pavement, there may be a little more harshness as the rear wheels will be more stiffly linked in their up and down motion.
3. Noticable change in emergency manuevers such as sudden lane changes. Vehicle will respond more quickly and positively.
4. Definitely worth the money. Easy job with common hand tools and takes no more than an hour, tops.
The first time you drive the car after the change out you will really notice the difference. My '05 GT rides just as smooth and quiet, but you can really see the difference in stability. I plan to take a road trip over the holidays and will be interested to see how it does in windy, highway speed conditions.
Jim (also)
Not Jim ;-)
Saturday afternoon, I started my wife's '02 Elantra GLS for the first time that day - so it was a cold start. It had gotten down in the 20s Friday night, but was in the 50s Saturday afternoon. I started it in the driveway to run an errand, and I heard what sounded like a pretty significant tapping sound under the hood on the passenger's side (where the belts are). I backed the car out of the driveway, put it in drive, and the tapping continued for about 15 yards down the street. Then, the tapping completely went away and did not come back for the 20 mile round trip. Yesterday, I started the car again on a cold start and ran an errand in it, and it was perfectly quiet. The belts looked good, and seemed to be on at the correct tension, so I assumed it might be a lifter that was making the noise.
Over in the Technical forum, someone else concurred, and recommended a product called Rislone (an oil additive). I looked on the Rislone website, and the product does claim to lubricate the lifters. I also searched the Edmund's archives, and several people swear by the stuff. I figure I will give this stuff a try and see what happens. Otherwise, I will have to wait until this is happening consistently and take it to the dealer (they don't really care to look at anything until they can replicate it).
FYI - the car has 70K miles on it, and has had the oil changed religiously every 3,500 miles. All the belts were replaced at 60K as well.
I do think that I am going to look for an oil additive specifically to lubricate the lifters.
Jim
Jim