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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • pmtrainorpmtrainor Member Posts: 1
    I don't have a shimmy problem but i have a 2002 Elantra with 106,000kms on it and the transmission went .They are trying to tell me that the car was driven hard and the tires spun .Well that just isn't true .They said the only reason the differential goes bad is because of tire spinning.Does anyone have any insight into this for me.
    thx Pauline
  • moparkillermoparkiller Member Posts: 3
    I HAD ONE AND THE DEALER CHANGED THE FUEL
    SENDING UNIT
  • mixwhitmixwhit Member Posts: 9
    New '00 Hyundai Elantra for me. I've had it about two weeks. Did a lot of short trips today, and when I parked it at the store, I noticed radiator fluid pouring out underneath the engine. Popped the hood and found it was coming from the overflow tube on top of the coolant reservoir.

    I let it cool down a short while and checked the reservoir--it was full. I drove a few blocks and the temp guage went right up to the top. I then popped the hood and found the reservoir empty. I added a bit of 50/50 and tried again. Only got a few blocks more before the same thing.

    I intend to go back tomorrow when the engine is truly cold and see if I can get it to the mechanics place before it overheats. However, any suggestions? I know the thermostat could be at fault, although I'm not familiar with where it is or how to know if it's broken. Maybe I should just try replacing it anyway?

    Suggestions are appreciated. I bought the car from a friend and know it wasn't having problems before this.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    Failed thermostat sticking closed. Try to replace the thermostat where the car is now located. Further overheating events can lead to a blown head gasket. If you feel you must drive the car a short distance to the mechanic turn the heat on full, watch the temp gauge and never let it hit the red (turn car off and let it cool a few minutes between each drive). Here is the thermostat info for a 2000 Elantra from Webtech:

    SERVICE MANUAL
    Applies to: Elantra 1998-2000 and Tiburon 2000
    GROUP
    Engine Mechanical System Cooling System

    DISASSEMBLY And INSPECTION
    Drain the coolant down to thermostat level or below.
    Remove the coolant outlet fitting and gasket.
    Remove the thermostat.
    Immerse thermostat in hot coolant to check proper valve opening temperature. Replace if necessary.

    SPECIFICATION
    Valve Opening Temperature 82°C (177°F)
    Full Opening Temperature 95°C (205°F)
    Valve Lift (at full open) 8.5 mm (0.33 in) or more


    SERVICE MANUAL
    Applies to: Elantra 1998-2000
    GROUP
    Engine Mechanical System Cooling System

    REASSEMBLY
    Check that the flange of the thermostat is correctly seated in the socket of the thermostat housing.
    Install a new gasket and the coolant outlet fitting.
    Refill the system with clean coolant.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    5port asked why my sway bar links were replaced. Upon inspection they looked loose, and we were able to wiggle them around, to the point where it seemed plausible that my mystery noise may have been produced by this looseness. Now that I am reasonably certain the noise is in the tank, I have an appointment with the local dealer to listen in. Stupidly, I forgot to fill my tank with just a small amount of fuel yesterday and instead let it run and run. I may end up simply rescheduling the appointment or going to the dealer that has a better service reputation (not conveniently located). I'll keep you posted.
  • petecalpetecal Member Posts: 28
    I guess we are having the same problem. I posted this to another forum.

    ****************************************************
    I was driving my son's 2005 5 speed Elantra and something doesn't seem
    right with the throttle. When I take my foot off the gas as I shift, the
    engine doesn't seem to slow down enough. It seems to maintain a higher RPM
    than it should.

    I did some tests and found:

    1) At idle, if I give it enough gas to get to maybe 2500 RPM or higher then
    let off the gas, the RPMs seem to drop as they should until about 1500 RPMs
    where it seems to pause for a fraction of a second then drops down to 750 or
    so.

    2) If I am just "cruising" in 4th gear at, say 2500 RPMs and simultaneously
    take my foot off the gas and push in the clutch, the engine speeds up to
    2700 or 2750 RPMs for a fraction of a second then drops down to idle, with
    maybe a pause at 1500 again.

    Has anyone else noticed this with their 5 speed Elantra?

    Could some of you run some tests like I described above and see if, perhaps,
    this is normal?

    I watched the throttle mechanism during test 1 above and there doesn't seem
    to be any hang-up there. It slams shut as soon as the pedal is released. I
    am sure it is the computer that is keeping up the RPMs.

    No Check Engine Light or other indication of a fault.

    Thanks in advance.

    PeteCal
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I've read somewhere that these strange throttle behaviors have to do with emissions; i.e., at certain RPMs, the engine is leaned out and the engine tends to want to dwell at those levels so that the car passes smog tests. Or something like that.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    Thanks jimbeaumi. Good luck with the fuel tank problem.
  • petecalpetecal Member Posts: 28
    The thing is, it didn't do this before. He bought the car in August. I don't know how many miles he has on it but I doubt it is over 2k. I don't know when the problem started.

    It seems to me that this could be a fuel consumption issue. Pulsing up between shifts, etc.

    If it was my car, it would be in to the dealer ASAP. My son makes his own decisions. Has anyone taken theirs in to find out what the dealer says?

    PeteCal
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I have ordered the new parts and expect them early next week. I went with the metal links after a discussion with one of the mechies at the dealership. Seems that while the non-metallic links may not break, they can flex and reduce some of the gain from the thicker bar. I will report back on how this all turns out.

    Jim
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Did you get the links at the dealer? If so, you probably paid too much. Half price or less if you get them from an auto parts store. If you get the Hyundai end links, though, I'd be interested in seeing what they look like, especially whether they have Moog markings (Moog makes the links sold at auto stores under both the Moog and TRW brands).
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Because of my long time relationship with the dealer, I get my parts at a significant discount. Links, bar, bushings, and tax were around $135.

    I will check the links for markings when they come in. Because of the holiday, that will probably be early next week.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I paid about the same by getting bar & bushings at dealer and links at auto parts store; if I had gotten them all at the dealer it would have been closer to $160. You have a good dealer.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I have been dealing with these guys on Olds, GMC, and Hyundai since '87. The '05 GT is #15 from them, so they figure I deserve a break on repair parts. Not to mention the many referrals sent their way. A good group of folks. The thing to notice in a dealership is the employee turnover. When you have an area like I am in with many dealerships close together, and the same folks are at the dealership you trade with for years and years you can figure the management must be doing something right.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Unfortunately, I haven't been in one place long enough to develop such a relationship. I've only owned something like 8 cars since my first in 1984, and I've only given a dealer repeat business once. And even that deal didn't go very smoothly for the second purchase (went in for a new car, ended up buying a used car that the salesman said was owned by an employee of the dealership, found out the car was in an accident when I went to close the deal after the employee said all she ever did was oil changes, salesman said he honestly didn't know about the accident, I ended up talking them down a bit and bought the car). That purchase, by the way, was the Ford Aspire I drove for 108,000 miles over 10 years prior to buying my Elantra.
  • nihao4587nihao4587 Member Posts: 43
    After two extra visits to America's Tire, I finally got rid of the 60 mph shimmy from my 02 GT. I am a happy camper again :D . By the way, the tires are Kumho solus 716.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Gas tank needs replacing. The service writer chick not only tried to tell me it wouldn't be covered, she had no idea how the extended warranty works or what it covers, and even asked me what model Hyundai I was driving when I first visited this dealer. The car was sitting right in front of her. When will people start hiring service writers who actually know a bit about cars? At any rate, she finally wrote it up correctly but only after calling the showroom to confirm that my warranty actually is a warranty. Sheesh!
  • iamfedupiamfedup Member Posts: 1
    Without any warning my engine light came on, my car just didn't drive properly, (found out it was driving in 3rd gear. Took it to my dealership and they told me that in 10 years they never saw a car with only 48000km on it have that problem. Has anyone else had this problem.Of course it isn't under warranty. This is a 3yr/60000km and I have had my car for 4 years. This piece will only cost me $900 when they can find someone who has it.
  • stukoliostukolio Member Posts: 2
    1996 hyundai elantra -5speed. Engine starts - runs ~15 to 20 seconds - dies. (Fuel filter already replaced). Next, check for spark - none. Leave car for a period of time and come back - starts right up - then quits again after same time interval. Have checked for good connection at the coil pack and what appears to be the crank sensor. Good battery connection too! Help!
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I'm wondering if a sensor is giving a bad reading. Can you get it to Autozone to read the computer codes? They do it for free.
  • stukoliostukolio Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip. Will try if I can get it to run long enough to get it there!. It has gone for extended periods running fine and then one day just goes on strike! Had it with a mechanic who drove it on and off for a month. He put 132 miles on it and it never happened. I finally got the car back. It ran for nearly two weeks and then died.
    even then, it started and I drove it home. It's just that way. It would be easier if it broke permanently!.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    I had that same problem with a Fiat (remember them). Was driving me crazy until one day while coming back from camping it died on the highway. I disconnected the fuel line from the engine and the gas tank. While my friend watched I blew into the line on the engine end. My friend said a big black slug of rubber came out. Never had the intermittent again. Over time fuel lines corrode on the inside rubber gets soft and causes clogs. Your car is the right age. Keep it in mind.

    My symptom: Engine would die while driving. Pull over and wait 2 minutes...engine would start again.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    My symptom on an Escort was the same as the Fiat's. It turned out to be the ignition switch; apparently the contacts would heat up and warp resulting in an open circuit equivalent to turning the key off. It would happen when driving in the middle of traffic. Coast to the shoulder, wait a few minutes, start and drive normally. It started out happening once a year, then once a month, then weekly, then daily. The mechanic checked resistance across the ignition switch and saw it was too high. He changed it out and it's run fine ever since.

    I guess my point is, it could be just about anything. But if there are no codes in the computer, it could be something like what I had on the Escort.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Amazing. I would have expected some noticable improvement, but the turn in and stability is almost unbelievable for such a simple change. I did the bushings and bar as the links were on the packing list at the dealer but not in the shipment. They are being overnighted and will be installed tomorrow.

    Something to note: The two frame-like beams running the length of the undercarriage are not strong enough to lift using a floor jack. I bent the passenger's side a good half inch :(

    The bar was quite easy to install, but the nuts on the link ends were super tight. I ended up using an impact wrench to get them loose.

    I used a little silicon grease on the bushings when I installed just to be sure there were no squeaks.

    If you haven't done this mod, and you want your Elantra to handle more like a go-kart, go for it.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    When you're putting in the links, check the paint mark in the middle of the sway bar. Is it green or yellow? I think the 19.2 mm sway bar is green, and if it's yellow, it's only 18. I bought what I thought was the 19.2 bar, but it had a yellow mark. A month later, I went back to the dealer and asked; the parts guys wasn't sure which was which and agreed to order one of each part number (55511-2C000 and 55511-2C100) and let me see which one comes with which color mark and which one is the bigger diameter. So hopefully Friday I will have my 19.2 mm bar on the car!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    No paint mark on mine. Per the part number, it is a 19.2mm. Hyundai part number 55511-2C100. I didn't pull out a micrometer and check it, but it is quite a bit thicker than the original.

    Wait till I catch one of those Protoge's on the twisties. They will learn the difference between "zoom-zoom" and bye-bye.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Quick way to check the diameter: Grab a 19 mm or 3/4 in crescent wrench and see if it fits easily over the bar. If it fits, 18 mm. If it doesn't fit, 19.2 mm.
  • njdevil1njdevil1 Member Posts: 45
    we owned a 2003 sonata that did that but it got stuck in 2nd gear. we would bring it back to the dealership and they would replace some parts.it would drive great for awhile and then do it again. finally after the fifth time they replaced the transmission. the first time it happened it was 2 days old and had 58miles. the last timeit happened it had almost 4,500 miles. we could have probably gone for the lemon law but the dealership went out of it's way to get it fixed. alot of extra free service. we no longer have that car, traded it for a 2005 elantra GT
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Note that a 19 mm wrench may fit over the larger bar, but just barely. With an 18 mm bar it'll be downright loose. The most reliable way I know besides this simple test is the mark painted on the part by Hyundai: Green = 19; Yellow = 18. To actually measure, if you don't have calipers you can tighten an adjustable wrench over the bar and measure the wrench opening while it's still over the bar with a ruler.

    I just ordered a new sway bar after I got a 55511-2C000 with a yellow mark. It was my understanding I should have had a green mark. The guy ordered one -2C000 and one 2C100; both had a green mark and both were thicker than the -2C000 I had that had a yellow mark. He gave me the -2C000 with the green mark and it's noticeably better than the one with the yellow mark. There are different bushings required by the two bars; if I had the 18 mm bar and bushings for the 19, there may have been too much play. Hyundai's documents don't make it very clear, either.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    The bushings are noticably larger on the inside diameter and still fit very tight on the bar.

    Did I say how much fun this sucker is???

    :D
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Member Posts: 559
    Is the 19 mm sway bar the standard one on an Elantra GT ? Or is it only on the Tiburon? And is it the current generation Tiburon sway bar which fits the '01 to '06 Elantra?
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Is the 19 mm sway bar the standard one on an Elantra GT ?>
    No. The GT (and GLS hatch) comes with a 15 mm sway bar; GLS sedan comes with 13.

    Or is it only on the Tiburon? And is it the current generation Tiburon sway bar which fits the '01 to '06 Elantra?

    The current gen Tibby bar will fit Elantras, but right now even the Tibby GTs only have 18 mm sway bars, I think. To get the 19, you have to get the 03 Tibby GT sway bar. The Hyundai part number is 55511-2C000; make sure it has a GREEN mark (tell the parts depart it must have the green mark which is for 19 mm; a yellow mark means 18 mm). You have to check the color and not depend on the part number marking; I've ordered the sway bar three times from the dealer, and twice the color did not match up with the part number. The guys at the warehouse apparently don't pay too much attention.

    Also, if you buy the new sway bar, you need to replace the sway bar bushings as well. The combinations are:

    19 mm sway bar: 55511-2C000 (one required) (green spot!)
    bushings: 55513-2C110 (two required)

    18 mm sway bar: 55511-2C100 (one required) (yellow spot)
    bushings: 55513-27050 (two required)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, so something is wrong in some of the part numbers being tossed out here, so I just went out and mic'd the stabilizer bar. The part number is 55511-2C100, it has NO PAINT MARKING AT ALL, and it is a very snug 19mm. The two bushings are 55513-27050, and the links are 55530-29500. I promise you I know how to use a micrometer, and I also gave it the 19mm wrench test (tight fit, and the 18mm is very loose).

    I cannot speak to the numbers others are getting from their dealers, but these numbers were double checked before ordering and I got what I asked for.

    Jim
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Congrats! You got a free upgrade. How much did you pay for just the 55511-2C100 bar? And are you sure there is no paint mark? It is right in the middle of my bar, and goes most of the way around.

    I think the dealers do their best to get the right parts, but the warehouse is VERY lax about distinguishing between 18 and 19 mm bars. I have a question for you, since you say you have the 55513-27050 bushings: On my bushings, there is a diameter marking and the number 17.5. This tells me the opening in the rubber piece is 17.5 mm, resulting in an interference fit that ensures a snug pivot joint. Do your 27050 bushings have the same marking? Or do they have a different number? (It's a molded-in number on the side of the bushing that would be visible when it is installed- on the face with the big hole through it.)
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Tomorrow my gas tank will be replaced and hopefully we are correct in diagnosing the problem as indeed being loose baffle(s). I'll keep you posted. :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, the unit is installed, so I cannot check the bushings but do know the opening was larger than what I took off, and once installed around the bar the bracket was very tight to install. I had the parts manager double check the part numbers before ordering as it is not really clear as to which bar is which in the new, improved (hah) online parts catalog. There is absolutely no paint mark on my sway bar. I did check the part number label on the bar to make sure it matched the part number on the order and it does.

    I had a mistake in my earlier post; the 19mm wrench was a very snug fit around the bar, and the 18mm wouldn't even come close to fitting around it.

    Just the bar was $71.62. List for that part is $82.52.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I think the 19 mm bar is about $10 more (list $92 and I paid $82 or something like that). So you probably did get the thicker bar. If you crawled under the car, you may be able to make out the diameter markings without taking anything off, but that's a lot to ask I know. I post to some other forums and may ask there; some actual parts guys post to them, but even their data is not quite 100% accurate.

    (new, improved indeed!)
  • jkobbjkobb Member Posts: 51
    First thing first , it`s very cold here right now so I`m not going under the car . 1. Is the sway bar replacement for the rear only and is there a front sway bar. 2. Will it affect the nice smooth ride I get on my 05 GLS or just keep the car from leaning in cornering. 3. I drive somewhat conservatively not exactly like a geezer but not like a street racer by any means, would this be a noticeble change for someone like me. 4. Those who have done the change do you think it was worth it, or is it more of a placebo effect . Jim
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    1. Rear only. Front bar is quite adequate for the car.
    2. No. Ride will be the same, just less body roll. On very rough pavement, there may be a little more harshness as the rear wheels will be more stiffly linked in their up and down motion.
    3. Noticable change in emergency manuevers such as sudden lane changes. Vehicle will respond more quickly and positively.
    4. Definitely worth the money. Easy job with common hand tools and takes no more than an hour, tops.

    The first time you drive the car after the change out you will really notice the difference. My '05 GT rides just as smooth and quiet, but you can really see the difference in stability. I plan to take a road trip over the holidays and will be interested to see how it does in windy, highway speed conditions.

    Jim (also)
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I agree with the above; the only thing is that I think there is a slight difference in freeway feel where you feel the road a little more, but not at all unpleasant. I bought the 19 mm bar but they delivered the 18 mm bar. When I went back to stock while I was getting this straightened out, I thought the ride was way too soft. Much better now.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Will the sway bar work on the GLS? I wasn't sure if there were any differences with the rear setups between the GT and GLS.

    Not Jim ;-)
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Not to be a kill-joy or anything, this is all very useful stuff, but... shouldn't this kind of discussion be in "Hyundai Elantra Owners: Accessories & Modifications"? That's where I'd tend to look for it if I ever wanted tips on upgrading the rear sway bar.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Tank was replaced Monday night and all seems to be well now. :)
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Backy's right.... but the sway bar works on the GLS and GT the same.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    I posted this over in the "Got a Quick Technical Question" forum, but thought I would put it here as well.

    Saturday afternoon, I started my wife's '02 Elantra GLS for the first time that day - so it was a cold start. It had gotten down in the 20s Friday night, but was in the 50s Saturday afternoon. I started it in the driveway to run an errand, and I heard what sounded like a pretty significant tapping sound under the hood on the passenger's side (where the belts are). I backed the car out of the driveway, put it in drive, and the tapping continued for about 15 yards down the street. Then, the tapping completely went away and did not come back for the 20 mile round trip. Yesterday, I started the car again on a cold start and ran an errand in it, and it was perfectly quiet. The belts looked good, and seemed to be on at the correct tension, so I assumed it might be a lifter that was making the noise.

    Over in the Technical forum, someone else concurred, and recommended a product called Rislone (an oil additive). I looked on the Rislone website, and the product does claim to lubricate the lifters. I also searched the Edmund's archives, and several people swear by the stuff. I figure I will give this stuff a try and see what happens. Otherwise, I will have to wait until this is happening consistently and take it to the dealer (they don't really care to look at anything until they can replicate it).

    FYI - the car has 70K miles on it, and has had the oil changed religiously every 3,500 miles. All the belts were replaced at 60K as well.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    My '02 did the same thing the entire time I had it. It has something to do with the non-CVVT engine valve drive train. I had it checked out by a good Hyundai mechanic and he told me that they saw some that did it from the start and others that developed it later. What you described is exactly what he told me to watch for; that the noise would dissapear as you moved the car.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    So... this is no longer a problem with 04 and on Elantras with CVVT?
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    So the mechanic told you that as long as it goes away after a few seconds or so of driving, it is nothing to really worry about???

    I do think that I am going to look for an oil additive specifically to lubricate the lifters.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Have not seen the problem on my '05. Valve train is completely different.

    Jim
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    That is exactly what he said. I put 42K miles on the car in 30 months and had no engine problems at all. Sometimes it made the noise, sometimes not. I was told it wasn't the lifters making the noise, but the drive chain that ran between the two camshafts. One camshaft is driven by a belt off the crankshaft, then that cam drives the other one via a chain.

    Jim
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