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Some general things: keep tires inflated to at least the numbers on the door sticker; keep speeds to posted limits; accelerate moderately; anticipate stops (coast to stops when safe and practical); use a light foot on the gas (the more your foot does not touch the accelerator, the better); keep the engine in tune (e.g. at 120k it's due for new plugs); check for fouled sensors; use the lightest weight oil that meets Hyundai requirements and climate conditions; use the A/C as little as possible; use non-ethanol gas if you can find it; keep the car washed and waxed (OK, no practical benefit there but you will feel better about driving the car!).
Not trying to be a smart [non-permissible content removed] here, but did you check the air filter? :confuse:
Reading through older posts I just came across this "problem" and am so happy to find a reference to what I thought was just me being too petty with my new Elantra GLS. I noticed the steering column covers being slightly apart on the ignition key side (more than on the other side to make a visible difference). It definitely looks like they aren't properly aligned. I was just at the dealer to have the fixed back seat put back in and thought of mentioning the gap but didn't because, as I said, I wasn't sure whether it was worth mentioning. I just figured it won't cause any mechanical or operating problems. Maybe I should reconsider and ask them to take a look...
Other than this supposed glitch, and the aforementioned power steering drive belt replacement, my 2006 Elantra has been trouble free since purchase in December 2005. Fuel mileage is over 32MPG on the highway, and around 25MPG in the city - both with the AC on.
I'm willing to believe that the real mpg I'm computing is fair - my typical highway cruising speed is between 75-80 mph. But the gas computer being that far off is annoying.
Anyone else experience this?
I have to say though that the mileage computer in my '05 GT has never shown higher than 27.9.
I have the exact same issue as you do between the gas mileage computer and manual calculation of mpg. The mpg computer is way off and is pratically useless. I reset on every fill up. Anyway, my last mpg computer showed 30.9 mpg. When I filled my tank up on Saturday I put in 11.067 gallons and had travelled 270.9 miles on the tank - manual calculation was 24.48 mpg (rounded). Thats a freakin 6.42 mpg difference! Anyway, only once has the manual and mpg computer been close (around .5 mpg difference of each other). Thats was roughly a year ago. On average it is between 3 to 4 mpg difference between the mpg computer and manual calculation.
I have an 05 Auto GT with all options. It has 26222 miles so it is well broken in.
Happy motoring
You and I have the same car with the same miles, and I swear I have never seen my trip computer show more than about 1 to 1.5 mpg difference to a manual calculation. Sounds like some of these units need math lessons!
Jim
After a great deal of haggling and run around with the dealer, they finally admitted that it could be the transmission. In return I agreed to a new clutch, if while in the tran, clutch was worn below standard. They rebuilt tran under warranty, and -- you guessed it -- also replaced the clutch telling me it was "seriously worn." A slightly pricey compromise ($650), but it works perfectly now.
Different from your situation, my car's problem occurs more likely when the car is cold.
I thought it is because of the clutch wearing, but from discussion, trany could be a problem.
Do you have any suggestion? Thanks
The other night coming back from the Home Depot, I noticed my trailer lights weren't working. I got home to inspect and found that both the front and rear taillights on the side where my trailer lights tie into were out. I pulled the bulb to find that it was fine. I used a test light to tell there was no power coming into the tail light. There has to be a fuse or fusable link for each side of my tail lights. I bought a mechanic book with a schematic wiring diagram in it, and it shows both a left and right side tail light fuse, but my fuse box is not set up as shown in the diagram. Can anyone tell me where to find the problem?
I have a 2000 elanta sedan version. My gas mileage dropped drastically in the past 3-4 months to 18-19mpg in city. I took it t the dealer, he replaced the O2 sensor and did some more changes worth $550, but it didn't improve any mileage. I was wondering if anybody here knows wht might be the next alternative to try. Is it OK to use gas which contains ethanol? I am asking this because my dealer mentioned ethanol is not recommended for hyundai cars?
Plsss throw some light on this issue.
Thanks.
As for ethanol anything up to 10% should be ok for your engine, you will notice a 2+/- MPG drop using an ethanol blend. Do not use E85 or any blend with more than 10% ethanol, it will ruin your engine.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Any input?
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
In terms of price, I think my timing belt was replaced for well under $400 at the dealership (although I had some other stuff done at the same time).
Not just limited to Elantras or even Hyundais.
Looks like you got better mpg programming in yours! :P Anyway, I just filled her up 2 this last week. Once on Friday morning and once on Sunday morning. Anyway, here is what the mpg computer calculated vs. manual
Friday, July 14th, went 368.1 miles and filled up with 14.012 gallons which equals 26.27 mpg. Computer indicated 31.7 mpg. Off by over 5 mpg!
Sunday, July 16th, went 210.5 miles and filled up with 6.846 gallons of gas which equals 30.75 mpg. Computer indicated 32.9 mpg. Not too bad here
Happy motoring
Shawn
According to the technician at my Hyundai dealer, this typically is true for many cars, but not for the Elantra. Again, the waterpump is powered by a seperate drive belt - nothing to do with the timing belt in the case of the Elantra (per my technician). He says if the water pump fails, they don't have to go as far in as the timing belt to replace it.
I sit corrected.
(Actually, I sit slouched, but you know what I mean.)
And not just wasting your time and money on a new clutch.
Yeah, I'm sure they didn't want to just do a free tranny rebuild.
It still pays to know a little someting.
It sounds like yours could be worn, as your clutch engagement point is near fully released.
You might try doing a burnout in 1st then hit 2nd gear with the gas peddle buried in the carpet.
If your RPM goes to 5000 yet you are not moving very much, your clutch is slipping.
Gears grind. If only one gear grinds, it is a worn syncronizer and the tranny needs a rebuild.
I am gonna visit dealer tomorrow.
I tried floor the gas pedal in 2nd gear, it seems the clutch does not slip.
Dealer also checked the code and they claimed everything is ok.
One mechanics in dealership said, bad quality gas may be the reason, but I was using SHELL regular all the time, and the problem occurred recently.
Do you guys have any idea about this problem?
The car jerks when I press the gas pedal hard in 2nd gear. The acceleration is not smooth. I can feel it in 3rd gear too, but much difficult to notice. This happens more likely when the car is cold.
Any comments are welcome and appreciated.
The dirty little secret in the oil business is that the odds are when you go to shell to buy gas you're getting non shell gas. You see the pipelines are common and what shell puts in one end most likely will not be what they take out on the other end. Shell will put in a gallon of gas on one end and on the other end take out whatever is at that end at the time, which may be BP gas or Exxon gas or whatever. Its pretty much all the same though.
If it was bad gas it just might be bad additives added at the terminal, a bad tank or transport truck with contaminants in it. Many things can happen to make one batch bad.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
If your car just jerks or is not smooth you could have condensation, or water in your tank.
That happens if you don't drive much and you keep your tank below half full all the time.
If you drive alot and keep the tank pretty full and it happens all the time it is probably not water in the tank.
Then you have to look at a spark plug or fuel management, like an injector.
I am thinking of replacing the spark plug wire, since the plug was replaced 1 year ago but not the wire. The car is 60k miles now.
The service rep could not recreate the problem, though I did it in front of her. They did an all-wheel alignment, and it made no difference.
I have noticed lots of comments about steering problems, and am wondering if anyone was able to resolve this one. I am still in the breaking-in period and have not gone over 55, so I don't know if I'm going to get any vibration at high speed. The car's steering and alignment seem fine except for this lefthand turn. I am getting a very nice 35 MPG in mixed traffic and am starting to really like the car except for this.
Also, the manual says that the key is supposed to come with an identifying tag (number). In case you get locked out, the dealer can make you a key. My tag is missing and the sales rep told me that they don't come with a tag. Am I supposed to get a tag?
How is the acceleration? and is it making a lot more noise? I had similar problems with my 2000 and it happened to be the exhaust manifold. Can't say thats your problem though. Get it checked out and soon if its flashing.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
If the CEL was flashing, you're supposed to SHUT THE CAR OFF IMMEDIATELY and have it towed!
With the heat and humidly we have been having in Los Angeles (it was a balmy 116 at my house in the valley last Saturday), now is not a good time to have an A/C problem.
Jim
There were some posts some time back about this. Here is one of them:
#951 of 2432 RE: Lowbeam failure by 5port Mar 25, 2004 (7:30 am)
Reply | E-mail Msg
There are two TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) issued by Hyundai about this problem. They apply to the 2001 to 2003 models. The inside story from a Hyundai repair tech is that some Elantras and Tibs were made with faulty alternators. When the Alternator is under high load it causes voltage spikes. These spikes are causing the lowbeams to fail. The fix is to replace the alternator with a updated unit. If you take the TSB printout to the dealer and show it you will likely get action. Go to www.nhtsa.com and order a printout of the TSB:
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Report Date : March 25, 2004 at 09:17 AM
TYPE : VEHICLE
YEAR : 2001
MAKE : HYUNDAI
MODEL : ELANTRA
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