Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
PS: Everything worked great on this car and it was really tight and very smooth.
I have an '00 pushing 140K on my wagon and it has been a champ. Only one warranty issue and one non routine maintence issue all those miles. I expect many more miles.
Now $6,500 to $7,000 for a '03 Elantra that needs brakes and a clutch is a little high. Maybe if it was in excellent condition not needing the repairs but not in the condition you mentioned.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Throw in brakes and a clutch and you drop a bunch. I was off on the $4K. $4K would be for average condition, ie shows wear. Even though you pay for ABS and sunroof when new, it really doesn't do much on selling in the real world.
Jim
An absolute price cannot be determined without seeing the car. All I can estimate here is that you have a high mileage three year old car (almost four years) that needs brakes and a clutch.
If I were buying the car you described, I would pay the bucks to have it checked over by a mechanic of my choice. A high mileage car can be a great deal, or a money pit.
Jim
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Go to Carmax.com and see what a similar car is going for, knock of about 15% or so and then take off the cost of repairs to get a better price that you should pay.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
There it shows a step 8 under registration: 8. Or, if you prefer, just use the username and password from the forum.
What does that mean?
That refers to the forum on which it was originally posted, DFWHyundais.com. Have you tried the steps listed to get your own logon? Last I checked, it still works, except that sometimes they don't send the email with your password. If you just go back in, give them the username you tried the first time, and click the Forgot Password link, the password usually comes via email in a few minutes.
If that *really* doesn't work, email me through my Edmunds profile.
I am looking at used Elantras (2001-2003, hatchback's / GT model with about 70-80k miles). I live in Manhattan and will be using it primarily as a family / weekend car. As I won't be able to do much maintenance myself (no place to easily work on it), I am wondering if you can give me advice on:
A: Anything I should specifically watch out for with Elantra's given the mileage/age (for example, I read that the timing belt and water pump should be changed at 60k mi. - I don't think this is Elantra specific though but good to know)
B: Anything you might suggest that I do upon buying a used Elantra with this many miles to prevent headaches later on (repairs in NYC are a bit of a pain and garages are often expensive)
I was thinking: oil change (maybe synthetic oil), new filters, plugs, plug wires... Does this sound right? Anything else that I should expect to be wearing out soon?
I really do appreciate your advice. I haven't owned a car in quite a number of years and never one with this many miles. Thanks in advance.
As for the oil I would not use synthetic if it hasn't been used in the car. Use the same type of oil that has been used. If you have a high mileage vehicle that has used dinosaur squeezings and start using the man made stuff you could get some leaks as the synthetics start cleaning out the system.
Questions, are you buying it from a dealer? If so what warranty do they give. Also how much are they asking?
One more thing, there was a period of time where Hyundai had some bad exhaust manifolds for the Elantras. I am not sure if it covers the time your car was built but it could. If it does I know Hyundai has extended the warranty on that part for 10 years unlimited miles, but I am not sure if it only covers original owners. I would check to see if this issue affects your car, if it does will the warranty cover you? If not will the seller fix the issue before you buy?
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Im very particular about my 2005 ELantra GLS which I have
babied since day one. I currently have 19800 miles on it.
I NEVER use the dealer, with the exception of warranty issues.
I use my own mechanic and I do 4000 oil/filter changes with
Castrol GTX 5w-30 Start Up. My question is I do not know
what part filter he uses and ive heard that you should really
use the OEM filter because it have some type of a valve that
opens when the car needs extra oil.
Should I really be concerned about not knowing what brand
oil filter my mechanic is using??
The problem comes from the fact that Hyundai filters have a bypass valve that opens up at times of peak oil use (such as hard acceleration). Other filters either don't have the valve, or the valve opens up at a higher pressure and the result is that oil starvation to the engine can occur. I've heard Purolator makes a good filter for the Elantra, but for my money I'm sticking with OEM.
after market oil filter may cause engine noise"???
Obviously, thousands upon thousands of Elantra owners who
have NEVER heard of this form and edmunds.com take their
Elantras to independent shops or their own trusted mechanic
for oil changes and NEVER ask "what type of filter do you
use?" question to thier mechanics!
So are all the vast majority of Elantra owners at risk of
engine problems that they need to be concerned about??
Lets be honest here..there are hunderds of thousands of
Elantra owners in this country. What is the precentage
of them that have actually heard of and use edmumds.com and
this form....may 5% percent??
The question I should be asking here is... of the hunderds of
thosands of Elantra owners, what is the percentage of
them that use the dealer for oil changes and what precentage
use independent shops?!
Not saying all non-OEM parts are bad or that Pep Boys is a bad place to go but be careful and don't be afraid to ask your mechanic what parts he's/she's using.
The Purolator L14459 is a near clone of the Hyundai one and it does have the bypass valve. I do all oil changes on my cars (05 Elantra and 05 Spectra) and have alm ost exclusively used Purolator except for one time when I used the Hyundai OEM.
Happy motoring
Personally, from seeing the construction of Fram filters I wouldn't use them on anything I wanted to keep.
transmission fluid needs to be changed on our ELantra?
The overwhelming thought here is to change out trans.
fluid on 30,000 miles, right??
However, the Hyundai maintenance clearly states to replace
trans fluid at 105,000 miles!!?? Sure, it states to inspect
at 30K, but not to change.
Im just at 20,000 miles on my 2005 Elantra and my trans
fluid is as clear, clean and pink as it was on day one!
So, I really should NOT have to replace it at 30K.
Thoughts??
Here is the text of the TSB:
[BEGIN TEXT]
Page 1 of 1
Technical Service
Bulletin
Subject
Group
Number
Date
Model
CIRCULATE TO: [ ] GENERAL MANAGER
[X] SERVICE ADVISOR [X] SERVICE MANAGER [X] WARRANTY MGR [ ] SALES MANAGER
[X] PARTS MANAGER [X] TECHNICIAN
ENGINE MECHANICAL
05-20-002
JULY, 2005
ALL MODELS
USE OF AFTERMARKET ENGINE OIL FILTERS
CAUSING ENGINE KNOCKING NOISE
DESCRIPTION:
Some vehicles may experience an engine knock noise with the use of an aftermarket oil
filter. Aftermarket oil filters may use different materials, construction and specifications
than genuine Hyundai oil filters, which may lead to pressure variations within the engine,
thus contributing to an engine knocking noise.
VEHICLES AFFECTED:
All Models
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
Perform an oil change on the vehicle and replace the aftermarket oil filter with a genuine
Hyundai oil filter.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
Normal warranty procedures apply.
This is not a warranty repair.
[END TEXT]
Lets be honest here..there are hunderds of thousands of Elantra owners in this country. What is the precentage of them that have actually heard of and use edmumds.com and this forum....may 5% percent??
It's probably far lower than 5%. Honestly, there are probably fewer than 2000 people who are active on the various forums; probably more like 200.
First of all, not *all* aftermarket filters cause problems. My understanding is that for at least some period of time, Fr@m listed a Hyundai application for a filter (I think the one they make for Hondas). The filter did not have the magic bypass valve, and some Hyundais developed engine problems. Hyundai reacted by issuing the TSB; Fram reacted by delisting the Hyundai application. Last I checked (a couple months ago at a local auot parts store), Fram still did not have an oil filter listed for Hyundai Elantra.
Most oil filters are probably okay, especially if the manufacturer does due diligence to ensure they meet the OEM specs for filter media and other internals. But at least *some* have caused problems. It could be that even Fram makes a good filter for the Elantra now; who knows?
If an oil shop does *their* job and only uses filters that are listed for the Elantra, everything *should* be okay. However, if some mechanic knows that the Hyundai and Honda filter bases are the same and uses a Fr@m filter made for a Honda (which doesn't require the valve), that's when you run into problems.
Generally the system works and most oil changes for Elantras are done with the right filters; but the system isn't perfect.
And to answer the other question: Hyundai (and Kia) dealerships sell the filter and drain plug crush gasket (which should also be changed every oil change) at their parts counters. The filter is part number 26300-35502. The filter and gasket look like this (gasket leaning against filter box):
The lowest price I've found locally for the filter is $6.00 and many parts counters throw in the gasket for free, especially if you mention it ("Hey, can I get a crush gasket, too?")
The engine in the Kia Spectra is the same engine as the Elantra (except for some very minor differences), so you can get the OEM filter at either dealership.
One last note: I personally have no direct negative experience with Fram; this is all hearsay off the internet (from sources that provide generally reliable information, including at least one employee of Hyundai Motor America). That's basically why I am spelling their name as Fr@m in these posts.
The maintenance schedule in my owners manual says 105,000 miles for replacement, but on the next page it says replace it at 30,000 for "Severe Driving Conditions", including:
A - Repeatly driving short distance of less than 5 miles(8km) in normal temperature or less than 10 miles(16km) in freezing temperature.
C - Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or saltspread roads.
E - Driving in sandy areas.
F - Driving in heavy traffic area over 90°F (32°C).
G - Driving on uphill, downhill, or mountain road.
H - Towing a Trailer, or using a camper, or roof rack.
I - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, other commercial use or vehicle towing.
In general, I would trust what the manual says over what anyone on an internet forum or anyone at a service center (including the dealership) would tell me. Look at the conditions above (copied out of the manual) and make your own call.
Thank you so much for you detailed, intelligent responses
to my questions! You explained everything very well! Its seems
some fellas in here have the tendency to panic and over react
over what they have heard about a specific problem, or an oil
filter!
Making statements such as...."I should be concerned", or
"always use Hyundai's OEM oil filter"! In my opinion, thats
a little silly.
If you are having your Elantra serviced at a well respected,
honest repair shop, you should not have to be concerned
about what oil filter they are using!
No one suggested that you should always use Hyundai's oil filter. The recommendation was that you should be sure that the oil filter meets OEM specs.
Have a great day.
Thanks for responding.
If one uses and independent shop for their service, how
do you make sure it meet OEM specs??
"excuse me sir, but do your oil filters meet Hyundai OEM
specs?" The response will ALWAYS be yes!, or "of course we
use filters that meet Hyundai specs"!
So I guess the only way to be sure is to buy the filter
yourself and bring it to your mechanic. Even doing that
they will look at you like your crazy, at least in New
Jersey!
It seems a lot easier to me to just use the Hyundai filters. I don't have time to mess around trying to figure out which filters meet OEM specs or not.
I justed checked with my mechanic and the Wix oil filter
he uses has a "silicone anti-drain back valve."
Sounds like that should be the one, right?!
Nevertheless, given the very small price differential between the PureONE and the OEM Hyundai filter, I'm simply going to use the Hyundai filter each time. Since I change my oil every 3K or 3 months, the differential in the quality of the two filters is probably going to be insignificant. And, there will be no warranty questions should a problem arise. I actually take a date-stamped JPG of the filter and process each time I personally change oil, and file it in my Elantra service file folder for future reference.
Composition books dont crash.
interesting...
Last night, I was vacuuming it out, and my neighbor came over and started talking...and talking. The doors stayed open (with the dome light on) for a total of 30 minutes or so. This morning, when I was leaving for work it took about 5 tries for the car to start. Once it started, it ran fine on my 25 mile commute to work. I went out to the car about an hour after I got to work this morning and it started up fine.
Here's my question - I am assuming the alternator is fine since the car ran once it finally started (and since it's only 2 years old or so). Would the problem most likely be a weak battery that maybe got a little drained when I left the doors open with the dome light on for 30 minutes last night - or could it be the starter? I live in the south where it gets pretty hot this time of year, so it's not unusual for batteries to die prematurely.
Any thoughts?
P.S. - let me add that the terminals did corrode a while back, and I did clean them with baking soda and water, and put a layer of lithium grease on them - that corrosion may have drained the battery a bit???
Since 150 or so miles on the car I’ve heard a cold engine acceleration rattle. The dealer has tested valve clearances, timing and the thrust bearing/washer without finding the culprit. Meanwhile, over the past two years I lost about 2mpg on city driving. This past week, upon removing my spark plugs, the dealer reports they are carbon fouled (but attribute it to bad gas — yet I do NOT experience any misfiring associated with poor gas and using premium has never helped improve performance or reduce rattling sounds, either). In any case, the spark plugs — with less than half the 100,000 mile rated life — had to be replaced.
In all this time, the rattling noise has become increasingly obvious (10-20 minutes or so when the weather is cold.) Nevertheless, I have never seen a check engine light. I've been told that any problem with the engine — fuel/air ratio, knocking, etc. — will trigger a CEL, and since there is no CEL there is no problem. On the other hand, I KNOW there is something wrong because I’ve visited these forums for years and have not found a lot of people describing problems like what I’m expriencing (which means I can't simply infer that what I hear is “normal”). Even a Hyundai corporate rep who came out to my dealer a year or so back didn't deny a problem once he heard the engine rattle on a cool, damp morning. Unfortunately, the rep claims he doesn't know the cause of the sound (he instead replaced a motor mount, which didn't help).
I once took my Elantra to another Hyundai dealer in hopes of answers after the folks here in this forum basically agreed my dealer was incompetent. The upshot is the other dealer’s tech took my car for a drive one cool morning and concluded the valve clearances either were (or sounded like) they were out of spec. Valve noise is also the impression independent mechanics got when they took a listen to the noise. So here I am thinking they are closing in on the culprit, yet this same corporate rep came out and checked valve clearances for himself and said they were NOT out of spec as had been claimed by the Hyundai tech. So now I'm left with possible spark knock (based upon my own research into the causes of carbon deposits on the spark plugs). Other than the 2mpg loss, however, I haven’t noticed poor startup, hesitation or any other performance symptoms (other than the engine rattle, that is). At one point, I did have to refill about 1 cup of engine coolant before and again after a 2,000 mile trip — but that was attributed to the dealer to my coolant cap rather than the engine running too hot (which can also cause carbon on spark plugs due to autodetination). Consequently, the only certainty is that the engine rattle I hear is most evident in cool weather under acceleration. Does any of this sound familiar to anyone reading my post yet?
I've heard that a sticky valve or improper engine compression can cause carbon-fouled spark plugs, too. My only explanation for why this situation continues to drag on and on unresolved is that nobody who works on cars nowadays — at least at my dealer, anyhow — really knows what to do with a problem that does not register on the PCM (on-board computer). So this brings me to my next question for those who have some mechanical know-how or related experience: Is it possible that my Elantra’s computer and/or a sensor — such as the knock sensor — are faulty and therefore do not trip a CEL even though there IS an engine problem (as evidenced by the fact that I have carbon deposits on my spark plugs despite the low mileage)? I've tried better gas, oil additives, etc. The only thing that seems to help quiet the engine during cold-engine acceleration is the hot summer weather. So if it is spark plug knock, would it correlate to outdoor temperature/weather — or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Now for the second and final issue: I have ABS and four-wheel disc brakes that tend to "thump" in the back when my foot rests on the pedal at a stop. Taking my foot entirely off the pedal or stomping down harder on the brake eliminates the loud thumping. These aren’t faint sounds. Anyone standing outside the car when the thudding sounds begin can also hear it — yet braking performance seems unaffected. I've also heard it shortly after pulling into my driveway and putting the car in park. Once again, the car has less than 30,000 miles on the odometer, yet the rear brakes have less than 20 percent brake pad remaining whereas the front brake pads have about 50 percent wear. One would think that the warranty would cover the dealer ruling out the possibility of brake grabbing or an ABS sensor problem, but no such luck because the dealer has not been able to duplicate the issue/noise (though everyone else who drives my car has).
I talked to an independent mechanic who confirmed that the front brakes should wear out somewhat faster than the rears. Even the service person at my dealer admitted as much. Plus, the independent mechanic went on to say that if there is more than a 10 percent discrepancy between the rear brake pad wear and the front it is suggestive of a braking system or ABS problem. So my next question is this: If it is safe to assume that the thumping sound and the accelerated rear brake pad wear are related, who should be paying to replace the rear brakes under the circumstances (given that my reports of the rear brake thumping problem date back several years on my service records)?
After all this — as you can tell by my lengthy post — I’m almost convinced I got a lemon for a car :0(. My Elantra has been in the shop 37 days not including the past week. As mentioned, I tried to go to another dealer but they didn’t want to work on a car with open-ended problems that were first reported to another dealer who was unable to fix them. So I'm back at the original dealer where I bought the car still trying to find answers. Meanwhile, I found out that I exceeded Lemon Law statute in my state (given that I’m over the 18 months or 18,000 miles reporting timeframe). So my final question is this: Does anyone know if I am still be eligible for Arbitration with Hyundai? Believe me, I’d rather get these problems fixed than file for arbitration but after five years I’ve gotten nowhere.
Thanks for “listening” folks. I appreciate any tips you can provide to get my car fixed and my warranty honored.
The brake wear is interesting. Before I sold my '01 GLS to my sister, I had the brakes checked. These are standard disc/drums. The fronts still had 85% left the rears 90% left, with 42,000 miles on the car. This is with mostly city driving over 5-1/2 years. 5-speed tranny. The fact your brakes are considerably more worn with less miles could point to a number of things, including different driving habits/patterns, but also potentially a brake problem.
Most cars have the opposite tendency- that the rear brakes take much longer to wear than the fronts. I suppose Hyundai was trying to optimize this so they would wear out at the same time, and overcompensated a bit.
I have 2 elantras, an 02 and an 03, as well as an 05 sonata.
The 02 Elantra has had 2 linkages fail, causing the passanger side wiper not to move.
Now, the second linkage WAS from a scrapyard, but even the motor was good, and still is.
It is just frustrating to have this happen twice, and they are not repaireable!
Any feedback?
Thanks
Since I have ABS and disc brakes on the rear of the car, perhaps a more general question would help me narrow down the possibilities. Has anyone ever heard of ABS being implicated in brake noise of any kind (not just on an Elantra, but in general)? I ask because an independent mechanic suggested my ABS could be engaging — but when ABS engage is it normal to actually hear the ABS kick in? I've heard of feeling it in the brake pedal — a pulsation of some sort — but I've never heard of hearing ABS activate. Since this is my first car with ABS, would someone with more experience owning and driving ABS-equipped cars care to comment?
Although the brake noise problem is maddening to you, I hope you understand that if the dealer can't hear it/reproduce it, they are at a loss as to what to do with it. I've had that happen many times over my years of car ownership--a problem will mysteriously "go away" right before taking it to the dealer, or it won't occur in front of the dealer. :confuse:
Not to sure about that, still on the original back brakes with near 140K miles. Changed the fronts at least three times.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I somewhat agree that it is time to pay for a set of brakes but my concern is that if they don't fix whatever caused the first set of rear brakes to wear down at double the rate of the front set of brakes, that it will just prematurely wear my next set of brakes, too. That's why I need to see if something is wrong first, instead of changing out the brakes first to see if it just clears up (which is what the dealer suggests). I think they'd rather me just pay it than find the problem because otherwise they might have a warranty claim on their hands instead of a brake job. I'm willing to pay for the parts if they can pick up the labor — assuming I can get them to find anything at all. (Not for lack of opportunity, though — the dealer has done all the tire rotations and most of the service, and always with my request for them to "check the rear brakes").
My experience is that the service advisors always want to take the description of the sound/problem down and then have the tech drive around without me (after I leave and they have a free tech available to get to my car). Consequently, I'll be going back to the dealer this week to insist on driving around with a tech to see if I can duplicate the issue. Whether they hear it or not, though, I would think it would be pretty straightforward to check the shoes, pads, calipers and parking brake visually. (Though I could be wrong about how readily visible a brake problem would be upon inspection.)
Therein lies a big part of the problem. You are the customer. If you want to talk with a service tech and ride in the car (even drive it) while they listen for a problem, that is your prerogative. Even the inept dealer I "fired" a couple of years ago had no problems with my talking to the service techs and going in the car (driving or riding) when in search of a problem.
If I were you, I'd have a talk with the owner of the dealership. If that doesn't improve their attitude and service, look for another dealer.
P.S. This particular brake problem may not have a visual cue. If it's related to the ABS, it could be due to a problem with the hydraulics or electronics.
On a '05 GT w/o abs, at 25K the front pads look great, the rear pads were less than 20% remaining. The rear pads are quite a bit smaller than the fronts, and are ORGANIC. I could not find a manufacurer that makes rear semi metallic pads for an Elantra. Fronts everbody makes, but all the rear pads are organic. And friends, organic pads will not last anything like a metallic.
Jim