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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    You should instruct an attendant to NEVER top off. It can cause harm to your evap system, and I wouldn't be surprised if it is illegal.

    Even with that, though, it should average out after a few tankfuls.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    if it is illegal than I must have broken the law numerous times. I do it all the time-no problems and I plan to continue. I also notice alot of other drivers that do it.I am not looking to argue with you just giving my personal opinion. Love your contributions to the elantra forums
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    re 2688 Harm to evap system. I have heard this comment frequently, but do not understand what is meant. Would you please try to explain it. I usually fill to the next full dollar amount, regardless. What kinds of damages does this cause? When? So far I have never noticed anything out of the norm. Thanks, van :confuse:
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    If you overfill a gas tank, it can force gasoline into the vent lines and potentially into the charcoal cannister. If this happens, the system will not vent properly (which is a potentially hazardous situation due to build up of pressure in the fuel tank or at the very least CELs for the Evap or Fuel System) and the affected evap system components needs to be replaced. The evap system includes tubing that runs the length of the car, between the evap cannister in the left rear, the gas tank, and the engine.

    I used to work for a company that made fuel systems for OEM and evap system problems accounted for a LOT of our repair parts (almost as much as fuel pumps).

    I've seen what can happen and I would never top off. But do whatever you want.

    Oh, and with respect to "illegal", anything that messes with emissions is generally illegal to some extent. If you mess up your evap system it can result in added emissions (since the evap system is no longer vented properly) or in extreme cases of topping off you get overflow of gasoline which is also an increase in emissions.

    When I worked in the fuel tank business, the plastic tanks made by the company I worked for had ever increasing permeability standards that practically counted emissions of single hydrocarbon molecules through the tank walls, necessitating different plastics technology to prevent the emissions due to molecules seeping through the tank walls. It sounds minor, but multiply it by the millions of cars on the road, and even a slight improvement in emissions makes a big impact, which is why messing with anything that affects emissions is against the law.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "I heard so too. and its inside does look the same as Purolator Premium Plus, although parts number is the same as Fram. So I wasn't sure. Is there a link to this?" ((

    Try BITOG and snoop out the oil filter section - there's a handy list there of filter manufacturers. As for Fram part numbers, Fram is so ubiquitous in the marketplace that many independent and store brand filters carry the Fram numbering convention for convenience. I have 30-odd "Castrol" oil filters for my '03 Hyundai Sonata that I bought on closeout for twenty-five cents per when K-Mart was in deep doo-doo. Though they carry a Fram number, they're actually made in Gastonia, North Carolina by Wix. (There's only one oil filter plant in Gastonia...)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Good point. I knew it was one of the German filter companies. One thing I'm still unclear on, though, is whether Hyundai's filters (oil and air) are actually provided by Mann in Germany or whether they're manufactured in Korea under license. In any event, Hyundai/KIA oil filters are built like the proverbial brick chicken house.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Not to mention, the owners manual even mentions that it is not good to top off. I would assume if they put it in the manual, a lot of people that know much more than I must have studied this, and found topping off can pose a problem.

    Like Doohickie says...keep topping off if you want. One of the purposes of these forums is for us to try to help each other when we can, and I think that is all we are trying to do. To be honest, I had never heard that topping off posed any kind of a problem until we bought our Elantra in November of '01, and saw that in the owners manual.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "By the way, what [oil viscosity] ... do dealers use?" ((

    Heaven only knows. Some dealers charge for 5W-20 and then squirt 10W-30 from their pressure dispenser hooked to a bulk oil drum into anything that drives in. (Though I personally still use 10W-30, ask me why I refuse to entrust oil changes to my dealer or a "gypie boob" shop...) Regarding 5W-20 vs. 5W-30, both behave when cold as a cold 5 weight oil would. When hot, though, 5W-20 behaves as a hot 20 weight oil would. Predictably, hot 5W-30 behaves as a hot 30 weight oil would - a bit more viscous than the former. Some believe the extra viscosity in 5W-30 oil also lends a bit more wear protection. I used to believe likewise, but now I'm not so sure. I now suspect 5W-20 motor oils carry additional extreme pressure additive to compensate for their reduced hot viscosity. One inspection picture on BITOG of a disassembled Ford V8 out of a state trooper's totaled 2001 Crown Vic patrol car at 237,000 miles revealed a still visible cross-hatch pattern in the cylinders from the final cylinder honing tool operation at the time the engine block was machined. This was a car run exclusively on 5W-20 Motorcraft synthetic blend motor oil and had extended periods of idling with commensurate fuel dilution. The main and connecting rod bearings were still within factory specs for new bearings. The piston ring lands were not carboned up and piston skirts showed more of a polished appearance than what could be considered scuffing. There was no sludge, and only a minimal "gold" discoloration from varnish. I don't recall whether the oil change intervals practiced at the department maintenance yard garage were noted, but 5W-20 seemed to be holding up to arguably severe service.
  • acura03gacura03g Member Posts: 76
    Thanks for the info. I have mostly used 5W30 in my 03 Acura even though Acura calls for 5W20. But now I plan to put Quaker State fully Synthetic 5W20 in the Elantra for its first oil change (I got the oil for free after rebate).
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    Re 2691, doohickie
    2694, 1racefan
    Thanks to both of you for the info. I never noticed it in my manual, yes, I think it is there, I just must have missed it. I guess I am just a creature of habit. I will try my best to change to stopping with the "shut-off" from here on out. Do you think I will be OK at this point? 6000mi on my Hyundai. Would the same thing apply to my 2002 Merc Sable with 27000mi on it?? I appreciate the sharing of information for the betterment of us all. Let's face it another little bit of gas in the tank at the time isn't that important. Again, thanks..van :)
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Let's put it this way: Every time you top off, God kills a kitten. Think of the Kittens!!!

    Seriously, you may or may not have gummed up your evap system already. Either way, you're better off doing the right thing from here on out. *If* it becomes a problem down the road, and it looks like it was a one-time thing, they are more likely to cover it under warranty. But if the evap system is totally full of gas, they're gonna give you a harder time.

    On my own Elantra, I got really good mileage on my first tank.... in fact, far better than any of the mileage after that first fill (which was done by the dealer when I picked up the car), at least for quite a while. Eventually the CEL came on and it turned out to be evap-related. The dealer I took it to (not the same one I bought it from) asked me if I topped off, and I honestly said no, but I also showed them the gas mileage record and explained to them that *really* good mileage on the first tank might have been due to the purchasing dealer over-filling it. They cut me the benefit of the doubt and fixed it under warranty. I eventually had two other warranty repairs for other evap issues. But because I had a reasonable story, the dealer that fixed it was really good about it. Since then, the car has been pretty good. (Except for a dead battery, this series of problems have been the only problems I've had with the car.)

    It would be best to do things right from here on out. If you have problems down the road, honestly tell the dealer "I never top off" (as long as you don't use past tense, you're being honest, right? ;) )

    It's never a bad time to do things right. Sometimes, not all the time, not doing it right will screw up the car. The sooner you stop bad habits, the better chance your car will have a long and happy life. :)
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    thanks alot for the information- appreciate it. Now what I was trying to explain really had nothing to do with topping off. It is about having to give back change or not. If you pay with a credit card the attendant does not have to worry but if cash is given than they have to use their brain cells in NJ. It is nice to get gas in NJ when it is really cold out but for other times I do not mind filling it myself.Oops can't do that in NJ
  • w9cww9cw Member Posts: 888
    Ray - Here some info which may be helpful. I just completed a head gasket job on my 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan ES with the 3.3L OHV V6. During this downtime, I also replaced several other bits and pieces, including a new oil pan gasket. The vehicle has used Mobil 1 5W-30 since purchase in July 1994, and had 161,000 miles on the clock prior to the head gasket failure.

    Here's what I found: the cross-hatch honing pattern from the factory was still plainly visible in all cylinder bores, there was no visible carbon build up on the rings, nor on the top of each piston, the oil pan was clean with absolutely no sludge build-up anywhere, and in viewing the bottom end, the crank and bearing caps were clean, and piston skirts were also clean with only a slight yellowing due to varnish. The oil pick up tube mesh filter was perfectly clean with no residue. The oil change interval is 3K or 3 months, and I've always used a Purolator PureONE filter, or a AC filter before the PureONE became available. I was impressed.

    One other thing re. 5W-20 and 5W-30 . . . both use 5W base stock. The 5W-30 uses more VI's than the 5W-20 formulation. VI = Viscosity Indexer, and the more VI's an oil uses, the more potential for varnish and sludge build up over time. VI's are used to increase the viscosity from the base stock viscosity level, in this case 5 weight, to a higher viscosity level such as 20 or 30 weight. The higher the viscosity, the more VI's used in the base stock.

    To phrase this another way, a local petroleum engineer here at the University of Illinois told me years ago to choose an oil with a minimal swing or range, i.e. which implies fewer VI's used. Actually, he's a great fan of 10W-30. He states that the move to 5W base stock is primarily driven by corporate CAFE requirements, and the need for improved fuel economy. I've used 10W-30 in an old 1985 SAAB 900 since purchase in April 1985, and it doesn't use any oil, and it's never suffered any mechanical engine failures. It's currently over the 200K mark and still going strong.

    I worked for a company back in the late '60s and early '70s that used only straight 20W oil in their cars, typically Chrysler products with the 318 cu. in. OHV V8. None of those engines required any major maintenance, even at the 500K point. Normal wear and tear items, yes, but no rings, rod or crank bearings, etc. A straight single weight oil such as 20W uses no VI's whatsoever.
  • rguedelrguedel Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2004 Elantra GT and the cd player has recently started skipping. I bought a head cleaner and ran it throught, but it didn't help. Has anyone else had problems? How long is the stereo covered under warranty?
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    3 years or 36,000 miles
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    If it's out of warranty, you might want to look into just replacing it with an aftermarket stereo. It's pretty easy to change out, and the stock speakers sound good with an aftermarket unit.
  • machinistmachinist Member Posts: 6
    I noticed that my wife's 2003 Elantra was making a "bumping" sound so I took it to a repair shop to have the tires inspected, balanced, rotated, and the alignment checked and done. They rotated and balanced, but prior to doing the alignment, they noted to me that the all strut mounts needed to be replaced. They quoted me a rather high price ($500 for just three sides), so I took the car home and priced the strut mounts. I was able to purchase Monroe strut mounts with a lifetime warranty for a little over $100. This past weekend I replaced the front mounts, which was a rather easy and straigh forward job. But, when I got to the back mounts I had a little problems. I purchased a Haynes manual that stated that you basically get to the rear strut mounts through the trunk liner. When I removed the liner on one side, I realized that the struts actually look like they connect next to the rear seats, and into the rear dash (under the speakers. Correct me if I am wrong, but do I have to remove the rear dash,where the speakers are in order to get to the rear strut mounts? (is this even the correct spot that they are located) I am trying to make this job as easy as possible without removing more than I have to. Also, if this is true, would anyone have any suggestions in regards to removing the rear dash? Is there anything else would you suggest in the way of parts or services that needs to be done after this replacement? (I do realize that an alignment is probably in order) :confuse:
  • machinistmachinist Member Posts: 6
    Strange thing. In my wife's 2003 Elantra, the radio has a tendency to skip--almost like a CD. At first I noticed it did it when I hit a bump, but sometimes it does it at random, and on different stations. It is purely periodic, and not something that happens everytime it is driven. My guess is that it may have a short somewhere in the radio. I am not sure. Has anyone had a problem like this?
  • eilymarieilymari Member Posts: 5
    Yes! I have a 2000 Elantra wagon and it's this for quite a while. An impossible thing to prove as it's so random. I did mention it to my dealer and they didn't offer any suggestions.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    I am curious...how many miles are on the car. My other questions is did you consider replacing the struts along with the mounts, or were you only concerned about the mounts?
  • machinistmachinist Member Posts: 6
    I purchased the car at 70,000. It had around 72,000-73,000 when I was told that the struts and mounts needed to be replaced. So far I've changed the front strut mounts and struts too. It has only been driven a few miles since this has been done.
  • joe131joe131 Member Posts: 998
    Have a friend help you set your mirrors. Tell him to get 40 feet behind the center of the car's rear bumper. At that point his relection should be seen in the center of the windshield mounted rearview mirror. Then walking on a line parallel to the rear bumper, as his image disappears from the rear view mirror, it should begin to appear in the door mounted side view mirror. Do it that way for both sides.
    When you are driving, still remember to turn your head for a head check before you change lanes. You could still have a blind spot.
    I'd guess 80% of drivers of both sexes do not know how to adjust their mirrors correctly.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Thanks for the tip, but I'm not sure why you think I need help setting rear view mirrors. I know how to do it so that as a car begins to leave the field of view of the center mirror, it appears in the side mirror. And I check over my shoulder for the blind spot, although the way I set my mirrors that spot is very small.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I don't see a general Elantra posting anymore, so I'll brag here. :)

    Betsy just rolled 75,000 miles with no problems, so of course I continue to be very pleased. This is a 2001 GLS 5-speed, and we are enduring our second (relatively mild) Portland Maine winter.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Is this what you were looking for Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006?

    And congrats!
  • flutter1flutter1 Member Posts: 3
    2000 elantra automatic with 100,000 miles, new timing belt, new fuel filter,recent plugs, plug insulators look good. Upon light acceleration engine flutters from about 2000 to 2500 rpm; then runs perfectly.
    condition has existed for last 10,000 miles-getting no better or worse.
    Help..
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Hard to tell. I would look at sensors connected with the engine rotation- crankshaft position, wheel speed, transmission input and output sensors. If one of them isn't reading right, the computer may try to adjust for it.

    Or perhaps on the input side- Throttle position sensor maybe?

    Might have to do checks on several components before finding the answer.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    The 2000 model is a pre-CVVT engine and used a butterfly valve in the intake to alter the length of the intake runner from low RPM (more torque) to high RPM (more horsepower). It may be that there is a problem here with the valve not making a smooth transition. This could definitely cause a "flutter" or hesitation in the engine until the valve completes the transition.
  • flutter1flutter1 Member Posts: 3
    wouls not the throttle position sensor or the sensors related to engine rotation cause the "check engine light " to go on??

    I have no check engine light on
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    TPS and other sensors will light the CEL. Sometimes if they have not failed completely and are just "off-spec" they may not. I have seen this on GM engines before where things weren't behaving quite right, but no CEL light coming on.
  • joe131joe131 Member Posts: 998
    non-serviceable, maintenance free means it is non-repairable and you don't have to clean it or adjust it during its useful life. It is a replaceable, throw-away part. It does not mean it never wears out, gets clogged or malfunctions.
    Lots of parts on newer cars are like that.
  • joe131joe131 Member Posts: 998
    I recommended that a friend helps you that way because it would require the car being at a standstill. Trying to perfectly adjust the mirrors with moving traffic could be very dangerous.
    Sounds like you are in the 20% anyway.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Probably more dangerous to drive the car without the mirrors properly adjusted, i.e., I get in the car, find that the previous driver mis-adjusted the mirrors, and no friend is around to help me adjust them.
  • flutter1flutter1 Member Posts: 3
    Any crossover fluids available from the aftermarket or must fluid be purchased from dealer??
  • w9cww9cw Member Posts: 888
    Not that I'm aware of at the present. As you likely know, either Mitsubishi or Hyundai SPIII will meet the spec. I recently bought 1 quart of Hyundai SPIII at the local dealer for my Elantra - not cheap, with tax the price was $7.50!
  • joe131joe131 Member Posts: 998
    A person can still adjust the mirrors with the car at rest without a helper, but it is easier with a person walking back and forth back there. If no helper, just use whatever suitably situated stationary objects there are behind the car and adjust the mirrors accordingly.
    And good luck to any of you who try to attain the perfect mirror settings in moving traffic.
  • spmrebelspmrebel Member Posts: 130
    Also, Kia uses SPIII. I bought at local Kia dealer for about 6.50 + tax for a quart. Saved a few pennies.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Places to buy SP-III:

    Hyundai dealers
    Kia dealers
    Mitsu dealers
    Chrysler (including Dodge) dealers (some old Chryslers are Mitsu-based)
  • dekoraidekorai Member Posts: 56
    Was wondering what an RPM range would be in 4th gear around 65-70 MPH. I had the timing belt change done today (63,500 miles) on my 04 GT auto tranny. Other belts for alternator, a/c, etc were changed.

    The gear shifting seems much smoother now, but the car goes into 4th gear only around 45-50 MPH, and the RPM drops to around 2700 RPM in 4th gear from 3000 RPM. Is this RPM on high side for 4th gear?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    On my '04 GT automatic, it's at about 2250 RPMs at 60 mph, and just under 2000 RPMs at 50 mph. I think it's just under 2500 RPMs at 65. Are you saying the RPMs for your car are at 2700 in 4th at 45-50 mph, or 65-70 mph? If it's near 65-70 mph, then 2700 RPMs is close to where my car is. But if it's at 45-50 mph, then it seems high.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    That would sound like the torque converter is not locking in. When you go into 4th, the torque converter will lock giving better fuel economy. As you accelerate, it will unlock giving the passing more torque through to the wheels. Should more power be required, it will downshift to a lower gear.
  • joe131joe131 Member Posts: 998
    In 5th gear, 65 mph is 2800 rpm in a 2003 Elantra GT with stick shift.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    On my '02 GLS automatic. I am having my Mitsubishi mechanic do the following to it next week....

    Flush the auto transmission fluid - he has the SP-III fluid, since some of the Mitsubishis also use this (I flush the tranny every 30K)

    New spark plugs and wires (I have never replaced the wires, but have replaced the plugs at 30K intervals).

    Getting power steering fluid flushed (I have never done this).

    Having radiator flushed, and getting the upper and lower hoses replaced (I had the radiator flushed at 50K, but hoses are original).

    I was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the thermostat at this time as well?

    I figure with the car having 90,000 miles on it, this should be all it will need (except oil changes) until I hit the 2nd timing belt replacement at 120,000miles.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    RPMs are higher with the stick than the automatic on the Elantra.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the thermostat at this time as well?

    Definitely. Since they're working around the hoses anyway, it's a minimal impact. And if that's the original thermostat, it's cheap insurance.
  • dekoraidekorai Member Posts: 56
    Thnaks everyone for the replies. I observed the RPMs more closely on during my 90 mile commute today. It seems the RPMs are more in line (albeit marginally higher) with what the folks replied here; around 2900-3000 RPM around the 70mph. I was just a little worried that the guys at Pepboys might have tweaked something that they should not have. I did have to take the car back to them after the timing belt change since they did not close the engine cover well enough, hence the concern. After 5 miles, the car started sounding like it blew a muffler and I had to return to get them to fix it.

    Now I got to figure out how to get rid of the sweet smell coming from the vents when the heater is on. I don't think its a heater core issue, since there are no leaks and no fogging up of the windows. Any thoughts on where I could/should look for a coolant leak?
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I got to figure out how to get rid of the sweet smell coming from the vents when the heater is on. I don't think its a heater core issue, since there are no leaks and no fogging up of the windows.

    Sorry, but I bet that's EXACTLY what it is- bad heater core. Depending on how acute your sense of smell is, the sweet smell can come a while before the green slime starts accumulating on the windows. And leaks start within the blower assembly; you won't see leaking outside that for a while.
  • dekoraidekorai Member Posts: 56
    Hmm, I guess I'll have to get the heater core checked out eventually. In the meantime, I got myself some car freshner to keep away the smell!!
  • nodulenodule Member Posts: 118
    I have a question about long term maintenance cost for the 2007 Elantra....
    With the new 2007 Elantra being more technolgically advanced that the 2006, with electric steering, Anti Lock Brakes,
    Tire Press Monitoring, etc....will the new 2007 Elantra be
    more costly to maintain over a 10 year period that the 2006
    would be??
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Consider that 2001-6 Elantras had ABS available and many had 4-wheel disc brakes standard. Hard to gauge the long-term reliability of a new feature like electric steering. The big bogey may be the side curtain airbags--will they need any maintenance before 10 years? Other than that, the two cars are mechanically very similar. The 2007 Elantra has the advantage of more years of tweaking/improvement on the powertrain. Which is warranted for 10 years/100k miles anyway. So I think any differences will be small. If you are concerned about 10-year maintenance cost, you might go with a car with a timing chain vs. belt, e.g. the Sonata I4, which doesn't cost that much more (in GLS trim) than an Elantra due to bigger incentives and profit margin, but offers more features and room. There are some other compacts with timing chains also.
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