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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lakjunkutielakjunkutie Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where the crank position sensor on a 1996 Hyundai Elantra is?? Is this a hard thing to change? I was told this was more than likely the problem with my car, but I cant find where its located lol. I was going down the road and it died on me. It is trying to start, (it turns over but wont crank) I thought it might be the fuel pump b/c you couldnt hear it when you turned the key on so, I changed the fuel pump & screen which still didnt work then I changed the fuel pump relay. It started ran about 4 minutes then died again and wont crank. Any hints help or ideas would be greatly appreciated... I am at my wits end!! Thanks
    Samantha :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Couldn't find a picture, but it is located:

    The crankshaft position sensor which consists of a magnet and coil is installed by the flywheel. The voltage signal from this crankshaft position sensor is provided to the ECM for detecting engine RPM and the position of crankshaft. From Hyundai Service Guide.

    From what I could find, there is also a CAM shaft position sensor. It would make sense that the crankshaft sensor would be closer to the main pulley on the engine. Look for something screwed into the block or on a bracket near the pulley, with wires going to it.
  • lakjunkutielakjunkutie Member Posts: 2
    thank you very much!
  • sintiemposintiempo Member Posts: 4
    I have a 05 Elantra automatic 57500 km. I am not very happy with the dealer, they offer here a number of service packages; for example the service #1 (29.95 CDN)includes oil and filter change and also among other things "check fluid levels"; the first time I took the car for this service, a week later it run out of windshild washer fluid, I know I can refill that easily myself, but if I paid to have it checked at least they could have ask me if I wanted it replenished. So that makes me wonder if they actually checked everything else the same way. The second time for changing the winter tires and the oil I paid 142.79 and had to wait almost two hours, they didnt label the tires to know how to rotate then later. This is in Hyundai South London Ontario, I wonder if all the dealers are the same. Now the car is schedule to get service pack #4 (254.95 CDN), -they insist I should buy that. This includes a number of "inspections" and getting the air cleaner filter and the engine coolant replaced , and rotate the tires, it seems to me a little expensive. The car has run perfectly so far, except that yesterday it showed the "check engine" light on one hour after I filled the tank with gas, the light was on three starts after that and then went off, I opened and closed tightly again the fuel cap, but today the check engine light went on again. I have read here that it could be the fuel cap or the tank top-off. But now I wonder if I really should take the car for the full service #4 to the dealer. Any suggestions??
  • how123how123 Member Posts: 9
    I HAVE A 2001 ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING AT TIMES YOU PUSH ON THE GAS PEDAL AND NOTHING HAPPENS. BROUHT TO DEALER 3X HE HAS NO IDEA. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THAT PROBLEM AND WHAT WAS DONE FOR REPAIR .
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Compare what is in the dealer's "pack" with what is in your owner's manual for recommended service at around 57500 km. And ask your dealer how much just those services cost, and be clear that they are to perform just those services. They may have added some services that are not required by the manufacturer. However, a coolant flush seems like a good idea if you haven't had it done yet. Also the air filter should be replaced regularly (but you might consider replacing it yourself if you are handy and save some money).

    If you think your dealer's service charges are too high, you are free to have your car serviced by any mechanic--or even by yourself if you have the skill and the time. But if you do that, be sure to keep records of the services, in case there is a warranty claim related to parts that have been serviced (or not).
  • sintiemposintiempo Member Posts: 4
    Thank you!
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Two things to watch if you get your car serived somewhere besides the dealer (or even at the dealer for that matter):

    1. Oil filters. Some aftermarket oil filters (at least in the past) have caused oil starvation due to a bad bypass valve spec. If the shop, for instance, uses a Honda filter instead of a Hyundai, the difference in specs can toast a Hyundai engine.

    2. Automatic Transmission fluid. Make sure anyone that touches the car ONLY uses SP-III as stated in the owners manual. Some shops say they have "universal" fluid. Universal fluid can replace Mercon and Dexron fluids used by other auto makers, but cannot replace SP-III.
  • jacobi1jacobi1 Member Posts: 32
    Hey all,
    I have an 02 Elantra GT, just pulled in the driveway from a long drive and tried to close the sunroof and it wouldn't budge? no clicking when holding the button and no movement at all? any ideas? anyone experience this? motor? eletrical? I have had some issues with electrical in the past so I'm thinking that may be the culprit...thanks!
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Have you checked your fuses in the panel to the left of the steering wheel (behind the pop-out bin)?
  • jacobi1jacobi1 Member Posts: 32
    not yet, before I look - do you know which fuse? guess I'll run out now and see if there's a map in the manual. thx.
  • jacobi1jacobi1 Member Posts: 32
    ok, map is on the back of the change holder (knew that, been a while). Nope, not the fuse - swapped out for a good one - still nothing. Any other ideas?
    thanks doohickie.
  • jacobi1jacobi1 Member Posts: 32
    well, was unable to figure out the problem today but got it closed. There's a manual way of closing it, remove a linch pin, pliers and turn (just need to pop off the cover that contains buttons and lights). Seems to be power going to it ok..maybe the motor is gone? off the wreckers.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    check the voltage at the motor before you spend the money
  • donniedonnie Member Posts: 24
    I noticed on the Forum that you recently replied to someone about installing a new radio in an '04 or '05 Elantra. I bought a used '03 GT some time ago. It had an Alpine replacement radio as the former owner said the original had very poor AM reception. As the antenna was broken when I purchased the used car I didn't know how the Alpine performed. Well, it's also pretty bad! Even when nearby stations are on, there's a lot of static along with whining when the HVAC motor is on---even whines when cruise control is on. Now this car spent several winters in upstate NY, and I wondered if the problem could be salty winter roads causing corrosion---or what? Could you give me any advice? Thanks in advance
  • tiphenirockstiphenirocks Member Posts: 2
    Engine won't start, starter just spins.
  • pault732pault732 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 elantra that needs to have the starter replaced the dealership wants $380.00 to replace it. Is there a way to do it my self? I would like to know if anyone here can help me locate it and advise me in taking it out. The junk yard has one for $40.00 but I need to bring him the old one but I don't know where it is? I'm pretty good on the car I do most minor maintenance myself(breaks,oil,coolant)now I need the starter
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Sound like it needs a filter on the power supply line, or you have a bad ground. Also, if you can, check the continuity of the antenna wiring (resistance too).
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Try looking under the hood at the fuse box. Pull the fuse marked SNSR; it is for all the sensors that control the fuel system. If it is burned out, try replacing it.

    If it isn't burned out, the next most likely culprit, from what I've heard, is the crankshaft position sensor. It measurs the rotation of the engine, and if the computer doesn't think the engine is spinning, it won't turn on the fuel flow.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Assuming you have the 2.0L Beta engine, the starter is underneath the intake manifold on the side of the engine toward the firewall. The best way to get to it is to remove the air intake. Disconnect the intake where it goes into the intake manifold and remove the whole thing (not all that hard) and you should be able to get to the starter.
  • donniedonnie Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info. Where can I purchase a filter for the power supply line? Local mechanics don't want to mess with the radio. As for the ground, I'd like to check that myself. How would I find the ground? Where is it attached to "ground?"
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    Hello All: Pertaining to a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS. The headlights (low and high beams) don't work. I installed new low beam bulbs (H7-55). They still won't work. I also checked all fuses and breakers. What now? Thanks.......
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    In addition to the fuses under the hood, have you checked Fuse 20 in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Box? The main power for the low beams and high beams comes from the fuses under the hood and is always on, but the power used to switch the coils from from Fuse 20 inside. Here is the schematic, FYI:

    image

    P.S. this probably should be posted under Maintenance and Repair in the Elantra section.
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    First and foremost Thank you (Pat?)for moving my question to the right forum. (MY bad) Second thank you doohickie for the very informative post. I will recheck all fuses as soon as I get home from work. Thanks again.............
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    No problem, don't worry about it - we're glad to have you as a new member! Let us know what you find. :)
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    I already checked all of the fuses that you just showed me in this diagram. The headlights will not turn on. The fuse box you are refering to is behind the ash tray on the drivers side? If so, I already checked these. I might add that there is not a dedicated fuse that mentions high or low beams. All fuses are good. What next? Thanks
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Did you check the headlight fuses in the engine compartment?
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    Yes I did check the fuses (breakers?) in the engine compartment. I did so by changing the fuse to another position to see if that appliance continued to work. ie: I swapped the headlight fuse for the horn fuse etc. I also ran a continuity check on the wiring up to the headlight plug. All was OK. I also noticed that the high beams don't work either. BUT the parking (orange lights) work just fine. Right now this has become a day time car only. Is there a fuseable link anywhere? (I changed the two low beams two days ago) I completely removed the light assembly and checked all of those connections while on the work bench. I'm sure when this is all said and done it will be something simple. I/we just have to find it. Thanks again...
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I guess check the whole system point by point. Are you getting 12V to the fuses? To the relays? You have to check per the schematic I posted. Sounds like maybe, just maybe, it's the switch?
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    I too thought it might be the switch. I will, as you say, have to go point by point. Yes there is 12 volts going to the fuses and relay(s). Is there a fool proof way to check the relay? Are the relays in the electrical box on the front drivers side fender? If so where can you purchase these if needed. I must say thank you again, for your undivided attention in this matter. Will keep you posted.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Cheap trick: put your finger on the relay and see if you feel a 'click' when the headlight switch is turned on. I know the relay isn't very big, but even the small ones will typically give a little click when activated.

    The relays will usually show a schematic on the side indicating which contacts are the coil. If you pull the relay you can use your voltmeter between the coil pin of the socket and ground and see if you are getting power when the switch is turned on. If you are, check the pins for the switching contacts and see if you have +12vdc there.

    Just a quick and dirty to see if the problem is on the control side (from the switch) or on the sourcing side (the contact path to the lights).

    Looking at the schematic, you may have a bad ground at G15. That should be somewhere up around the front, but if that ground is bad, both sides low and high will not work.

    Jim
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    Hello jlflemmons, I will certainly give this a try. I'll let all know what I find. Thanks.........
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Don't trust that trick. On my Escort the cooling fan relays failed. They still clicked but they didn't make contact (even though something inside was moving when power was applied to the coil). One way to check is to switch them out with another relay you know to be good (for instance, I think the horn relay is the same).

    The best way to check the relays is to get two wires with connectors on them (the females that fit standard spade connectors) and connect them from the battery to the coil, then check with a voltmeter or continuity tester to see if the switched contacts are working properly.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    If you want to check the switch, connector M01-2 is the connector that plugs into the switch. It is pretty easy to get to; all you have do is remove the shroud on the column and back out two screws that hold the switch in place.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    That's why I said it was an easy check to see if the problem was in the control circuit. If the relay 'clicks' then you know there is power in the control circuit and you have eliminated that half of the circuit.

    I am still betting on the ground being bad at G15. That is the common point for all the symptoms listed.
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    "OK" Here's what I've come up with. The switch works. I checked it with my volt meter. When the switch is "off" it reads zero where I pulled the relay at the fuse box on the front fender (drivers side) same goes for the high beams. I get battery voltage when ever I use the switch at the steering terminal. Soooooo I guess it a ground?! If so where would be the best place to locate the G-15 ground? I found two other grounds that went from the engine block. Is the G-15 near the front radiator or so??? Thanks
  • dreamtheaterrdreamtheaterr Member Posts: 9
    While on the topic of headlights, how do I remove the parking light bulb in an 04 Elantra? I recently changed the headlight bulbs but was unable to change the small bulbs. Is there a trick to pulling them out?! :mad:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    G15 is located under the battery tray just outboard from the air intake tube. You will have to pull the battery and tray to see it.

    ">So, if you have had any leakage from the battery, it is possible that the ground connection is corroded, thus disabling the current path to ground and voila, no headlights.

    I have to say that putting any ground connection beneath the battery is not a great idea for the very reason mentioned above.
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    Thank you jlflemmons I will get on this right away.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Are you talking about the "city light" that's in the headlamp assembly, or the marker light on the side of the car?

    The best way to get to the city light is to take the whole headlamp out of the car. This removes removing three screws- 2 are obvious on top of the headlight, and there's another one lower down and at the rear of the assembly, pointing the same way as the two on top. For the right healight, you can see all three from above. For the left headlight, you have to remove the black plastic heat shield that is attached with three plastic fasterners in the front, and a bolt to the top of the air cleaner, to get to the third headlight screw in the back. It sounds complicated, but it only takes a few minutes.

    Once the screws are loose, disconnect the connector at the rear of the headlight (there is a tab on top to push to release it), and take the turn signal socket out by turning it a quarter turn up, then pulling back. Then the headlight just pulls out. Once you get the whole assembly out, you should be able to get to the city light by removing the cap that gives access to the low beam light.

    If you're talking about the marker light on the side of the bumper, I posted this earlier in the thread:
    image
  • dreamtheaterrdreamtheaterr Member Posts: 9
    Thanks Doohickie. I was referring to the 'city light'.

    I changed my headlight bulbs last weekend on my own. I struggled with pulling out the city light, so was wondering if there was a trick to it. No amount of pulling or rotating helped. Do I pull on the wires? Is there something I'm missing? Maybe a nice curse to it perhaps.....
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    To: Hosts and whoever ?

    Why with the change to this new format are we deprived of being able to read completely many of the posts to the various columns? The ? ads that are alongside of the posts (to the right) obviously are messing up the posts, similar to what has happened in the past with the over sized pix, etc. Doesn't the web manager look at the forums when they make changes? It is more than frustrating trying to guess what some of the participants are telling us when portions of their posts are ? covered up and can't be read. I don't think that I can possibly be the only one experiencing this problem. Scroll down the pages, without the sidebar, and things are fine.
    :mad: :P :( van
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    I haven't had to change my city lights yet. I will try to check them this weekend. I'm sure there's a trick to it; I'm usually pretty good at figuring them out. I'll let you know what I find out.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Stop by the Forums Software discussion for the latest scoop on what's going on with the changes.

    Regarding the posts being messed up, see this post stevedebi, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #3723, 8 Nov 2007 5:38 pm and Sylvia's reply two posts later. The short of it is that it's been noted and a fix has been requested.
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    "OK" I just pulled the battery and tray. I found a wire cluster (maybe 4 or 5 wires) and a 10 or 12mm bolt. I removed this and cleaned under this cluster. I noticed another cluster on the other side and did the same. Still no headlights. I just hope that I cleaned the right connections. I also did the negative from the battery while I was there. I checked all fuses again. I also pulled the fuse/relay in the electrical box on the fender well (drivers side) I checked to make sure (again) that the switch on the steering column does in fact work. It does! What could I be missing. I feel like I'm so close but not there yet. Thanks again!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, let's do a little debug here. If you turn on the headlights, and switch between the hi and lo beams, does the high beam indicator come on in the dashboard? If it does, the high beam relay is passing 12vdc. The dash indicator is on a different ground circuit than the headlights. If it doesn't, the relay is not passing current. Since both your low and high beams are not working, I don't think you will find this to be the case. So, check to see if the high beam indicator is working.

    Next, pick a headlight that is easy to get to. Pull the connector and take your voltmeter or a 12vdc test light, or even a 12v light bulb, and measure from each side of the contacts to ground. A good ground, like back at the battery. If you can measure 12vdc switching off and on with the headlight/high beam switch, then you know you have a ground problem.

    If there is no 12vdc at the headlamp connector, and we know the relay is activating, we need to find connector E60, It will have two green and two yellow wires that go to the high and low beam lights on each side. I really don't think this is where the problem is, though, as the same connector has other functions that would be failing if the connector had somehow become dislodged

    I am trying to figure out a way to show the location of G15.

    .
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    I just read you instructions, and if I remember right, (and I will check), I did not have any voltage at all, at either head lamp plugs. (I only checked it with a test light, not a voltmeter) I honestly can't remember if the "high beam" indicator comes on, on the instrument panel. I will double check. Thanks for the further instructions. I'm off to work early, so I will have to check this afternoon.
  • clutchnhclutchnh Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    I was wondering if anyone had an issue with a front suspension squeak? This started to happen a couple of weeks ago when I was driving through a bumpy parking lot with the window down. It seems to be coming from the driver's side. It doesn't affect the way the car handles and either I can't hear it at faster speeds or it goes away. It seems to happen regardless of the weather and temp. It reminds me of my old chevy caprice I used to drive years ago with 130k miles on it. Is there any greasing that needs to be done in the front of the vehicle or is the chassis sealed? Could this be an issue with the front strut? My GT only has 29k on it and hasn't been abused. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts?
  • dukecitydukecity Member Posts: 13
    To jlflemmons and doohickie, Here is what happened tonight. I checked the voltage at the light socket.......zero voltage. I flipped on the high beams, no high beam indication. I rechecked the switch on the steering column and the fuse/relay in the electrical box on the fender well. Everything's fine. On a hunch I rechecked the fuses under the dash next to the steering column. I found one fuse that was bad. It said IGN. So I replaced it. Tried the headlights again and THEY WORK!!!!!!!!! The high beams also. The high beam indicator on the dash works also. I wanted to explain this, as "jlflemmons" you were a great help, and "doohickie" it was invaluable to me to have that wiring diagram. Thank you to all...........
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    The fuse marked IGN is Fuse 20, the one I told you to check in the post with the circuit diagram. If you count starting from the top left, Fuse 20 is the IGN fuse. You coulda solved your problem five days ago if you would only listen!

    /mom

    Anyway, I'm glad you were able to get your problem solved. ;)
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