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Comments
Samantha
The crankshaft position sensor which consists of a magnet and coil is installed by the flywheel. The voltage signal from this crankshaft position sensor is provided to the ECM for detecting engine RPM and the position of crankshaft. From Hyundai Service Guide.
From what I could find, there is also a CAM shaft position sensor. It would make sense that the crankshaft sensor would be closer to the main pulley on the engine. Look for something screwed into the block or on a bracket near the pulley, with wires going to it.
If you think your dealer's service charges are too high, you are free to have your car serviced by any mechanic--or even by yourself if you have the skill and the time. But if you do that, be sure to keep records of the services, in case there is a warranty claim related to parts that have been serviced (or not).
1. Oil filters. Some aftermarket oil filters (at least in the past) have caused oil starvation due to a bad bypass valve spec. If the shop, for instance, uses a Honda filter instead of a Hyundai, the difference in specs can toast a Hyundai engine.
2. Automatic Transmission fluid. Make sure anyone that touches the car ONLY uses SP-III as stated in the owners manual. Some shops say they have "universal" fluid. Universal fluid can replace Mercon and Dexron fluids used by other auto makers, but cannot replace SP-III.
I have an 02 Elantra GT, just pulled in the driveway from a long drive and tried to close the sunroof and it wouldn't budge? no clicking when holding the button and no movement at all? any ideas? anyone experience this? motor? eletrical? I have had some issues with electrical in the past so I'm thinking that may be the culprit...thanks!
thanks doohickie.
If it isn't burned out, the next most likely culprit, from what I've heard, is the crankshaft position sensor. It measurs the rotation of the engine, and if the computer doesn't think the engine is spinning, it won't turn on the fuel flow.
P.S. this probably should be posted under Maintenance and Repair in the Elantra section.
The relays will usually show a schematic on the side indicating which contacts are the coil. If you pull the relay you can use your voltmeter between the coil pin of the socket and ground and see if you are getting power when the switch is turned on. If you are, check the pins for the switching contacts and see if you have +12vdc there.
Just a quick and dirty to see if the problem is on the control side (from the switch) or on the sourcing side (the contact path to the lights).
Looking at the schematic, you may have a bad ground at G15. That should be somewhere up around the front, but if that ground is bad, both sides low and high will not work.
Jim
The best way to check the relays is to get two wires with connectors on them (the females that fit standard spade connectors) and connect them from the battery to the coil, then check with a voltmeter or continuity tester to see if the switched contacts are working properly.
I am still betting on the ground being bad at G15. That is the common point for all the symptoms listed.
">So, if you have had any leakage from the battery, it is possible that the ground connection is corroded, thus disabling the current path to ground and voila, no headlights.
I have to say that putting any ground connection beneath the battery is not a great idea for the very reason mentioned above.
The best way to get to the city light is to take the whole headlamp out of the car. This removes removing three screws- 2 are obvious on top of the headlight, and there's another one lower down and at the rear of the assembly, pointing the same way as the two on top. For the right healight, you can see all three from above. For the left headlight, you have to remove the black plastic heat shield that is attached with three plastic fasterners in the front, and a bolt to the top of the air cleaner, to get to the third headlight screw in the back. It sounds complicated, but it only takes a few minutes.
Once the screws are loose, disconnect the connector at the rear of the headlight (there is a tab on top to push to release it), and take the turn signal socket out by turning it a quarter turn up, then pulling back. Then the headlight just pulls out. Once you get the whole assembly out, you should be able to get to the city light by removing the cap that gives access to the low beam light.
If you're talking about the marker light on the side of the bumper, I posted this earlier in the thread:
I changed my headlight bulbs last weekend on my own. I struggled with pulling out the city light, so was wondering if there was a trick to it. No amount of pulling or rotating helped. Do I pull on the wires? Is there something I'm missing? Maybe a nice curse to it perhaps.....
Why with the change to this new format are we deprived of being able to read completely many of the posts to the various columns? The ? ads that are alongside of the posts (to the right) obviously are messing up the posts, similar to what has happened in the past with the over sized pix, etc. Doesn't the web manager look at the forums when they make changes? It is more than frustrating trying to guess what some of the participants are telling us when portions of their posts are ? covered up and can't be read. I don't think that I can possibly be the only one experiencing this problem. Scroll down the pages, without the sidebar, and things are fine.
:mad: :P van
Regarding the posts being messed up, see this post stevedebi, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #3723, 8 Nov 2007 5:38 pm and Sylvia's reply two posts later. The short of it is that it's been noted and a fix has been requested.
Next, pick a headlight that is easy to get to. Pull the connector and take your voltmeter or a 12vdc test light, or even a 12v light bulb, and measure from each side of the contacts to ground. A good ground, like back at the battery. If you can measure 12vdc switching off and on with the headlight/high beam switch, then you know you have a ground problem.
If there is no 12vdc at the headlamp connector, and we know the relay is activating, we need to find connector E60, It will have two green and two yellow wires that go to the high and low beam lights on each side. I really don't think this is where the problem is, though, as the same connector has other functions that would be failing if the connector had somehow become dislodged
I am trying to figure out a way to show the location of G15.
.
I was wondering if anyone had an issue with a front suspension squeak? This started to happen a couple of weeks ago when I was driving through a bumpy parking lot with the window down. It seems to be coming from the driver's side. It doesn't affect the way the car handles and either I can't hear it at faster speeds or it goes away. It seems to happen regardless of the weather and temp. It reminds me of my old chevy caprice I used to drive years ago with 130k miles on it. Is there any greasing that needs to be done in the front of the vehicle or is the chassis sealed? Could this be an issue with the front strut? My GT only has 29k on it and hasn't been abused. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts?
/mom
Anyway, I'm glad you were able to get your problem solved.