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Comments
Jim
CAR CARE SYSTEM includes:
- EXTERIOR PROTECTION (Forms a clear shell to seal out damaging oxidation, pollutants, detergents, UV rays, acid rain, bird droppings, and tree sap. Carries a 5-year warranty.)
- INTERIOR PROTECTION w/BANOYL (Fabric has been thoroughly protected. Safeguards your car's interior from oil and water-based stains.)
- VINYL and LEATHER CONDITIONER (Vinyl and Leather has (sic) been treated to help keep it soft and supple.)
- CAR CARE KIT
The retail cost of this Car Care System Package is $995. I did not pay for it.
My questions are:
1. How do I know if the protection has actually been placed on the exterior/interior?
2. Since my Elantra does not have leather, which vinyl parts can I check to see if they've been treated?
3. If exterior protection has been added, and I can confirm it's actually on the vehicle, when do I apply my first coat of wax on the exterior?
4. If I treated the interior with Armor All (or similar product), would it cause problems with BANOYL?
5. I did not receive a Car Care Kit (as shown on the additional sticker). Since I didn't pay for this so-called "kit," should I be concerned?
Thank you for your comments.
A few musings:
* You should be able to tell if the paint protection is there and still working by how water beads (or doesn't) on the surface. When water stops beading, start waxing!
* I am confused about the BANOYL. It seems as if that is a fabric protector, but you are talking about using Armor All. Does Armor All offer a fabric protector? I'm used to using 3M Scotchgard for that purpose (and it has worked great for me, fwiw). What you could do is use the fabric and/or vinyl protectors of your choice on inconspicuous places (maybe hard to do for the fabric) and see what happens after a few weeks.
They will make a big deal over the "coverage" that the package extends, but read the fine print carefully and you will find that it actually covers almost nothing, and what it does cover requires that either you provide proof that the "protection system" has been maintained, or you pay the dealer anually to re-apply.
This has got to be the biggest profit item in the whole deal, short of the finance offices.
As for financing... I actually would have to say that was the very best part of the deal when I bought my Elantra. I had financing going in, but the finance guy found a local credit union (which we had previously used for auto financing) with a much lower rate than my pre-approved financing *and* Hyundai's best deal. I told the guy up front no warranties, etc., and he mentioned them in his talk but after paying lip-service because he was required to by the dealership, he moved on quickly. He even got me gap insurance for free by pointing out that I could get a lower interest rate if I got gap that covered the cost of the gap insurance.
Vehicles - New
(Cars, Trucks, Boats and RVs)
24 Mo 4.99%
36 Mo 5.19%
48 Mo 5.29%
60 Mo 5.39%
66 Mo 5.49%
72 Mo 5.59%
Assuming a good credit rating.
Also, if you're looking ot buy a Hyundai, there are a lot of good Hyundai dealers in the area, for sales, service and warranty work. If you want a little more info, email me and I'll give you my impressions about area dealerships.
mrcellus
Anyway... The place where I get the oil changed (the quick-lube section at the dealership) always tests the power steering, brake, and other (are there others?) fluids. Last summer, the PS fluid was not, according to the mechanic, the color it was supposed to be. I had it changed (I thought, that after 6 years, it made sense it needed to be changed). However, a couple of weeks ago, they came up again with the same story. I had it changed again, but I'm starting to wonder if this is not another one of those tricks to have you spend your money on things that are not necessary. Any reason why the power steering fluid would go bad in less than a year?
Thanks!
Dealer refused to touch under warranty because we bought the car new from them 2 years ago. Tried to escalate to district or regional rep, but after Hyundai Consumer Affairs telling us they would do so, they turned around and changed their mind.
Even in the bad old American car days 30 years ago a Chevy or Ford area rep would at least somehow have split the cost of a repair like this.
Dealer admits there is no sign of racing or abuse, and would not check the flywheel.
Dealer wants to replace entire clutch assembly for $1200+, about 80% more than our normal local garage.
Funny thing is, we were out at the dealer a week earlier to look at Sonatas. No more Hyundais for us.
The best warranty in America is useless to us after 18,000 miles. We'll be telling our friends and relatives to drive by the Hyundai store.
My sister, who knows how to drive a stick, owns the car now and loves it.
Since your dealer admits there are no signs of abuse, why won't they go to bat for you with Hyundai? They'll get reimbursed for warranty work, as long as it's clear the problem is not due to abuse. Their response mystifies me.
I had a 92 Lincoln. A week out of warranty, the engine siezed due to a faulty head gasket. Without even requesting it, Ford stepped up and fixed it free of charge. Was it a defect, you bet. Were they obligated legally to help me, no way. Ethically, I think they were, and they did. For Hyundai to refuse to help at 18,000 miles is unconscionable to me, and I'll quit buying them if this is their act. I buy a ton of Hyundais for customers and friends - and I recommend them, but not if this is what their warranty really means.
If there is a defect, they should fix it. If there is early failure of a covered component and "obvious or excessive abuse" is not noted, for example as you say, not changing the oil forever, they should fix it. It's a good faith matter to me.
If the clutch in that Elantra barfed at 19K with no abuse, go up the ladder at Hyundai and forget the dealer. I have found that many times a dealer will state 'no warranty' when in fact the manufacturer was never called. The hourly rate to change a part is almost always higher for a customer pay as compared to a warranty pay. So, if a dishonest shop can get paid full retail for parts plus a higher hourly rate they may be tempted to fudge a bit on what the factory said regarding the warranty.
So the service was done, and we were told they test-drove and could tell what we were talking about with the brakes...that it's not urgent, but the rear brakes "need work."
What on earth is THAT about? My car is less than a year old, and many, many of the 15k miles (not REALLY 15k you know, though, because of odometer calibration issues) were from looooooong highway-drives. Several roadtrips from NE Ohio to Charleston, SC, Michigan, and Pennsylvania. The brakes were barely used on those trips.
Help me figure out what is going on!
I phoned Hyundai customer support to request a review by the regional / district manager. The CSR said they would put the escalation request, since even the dealer said there was no sign of abuse.
Heard back from Hyundai USA. Their regional rep refuses to review it any further, since they phoned the dealer, and the dealer confirmed the clutch lining is 3 months out of the 12-month warranty.
I've had regional reps from the Big Three work with me when things are out of technical warranty but still are not expected to go bad. The Hyundai dealership admitted that no one expects a cluch to go bad in 18k miles. In such cases, the Big Three would often work on some sort of split cost arrangement on the repair.
Hyundai USA denies the request even to talk with me. They are not interested.
I was really a big adherent of the Hyundai, thinking it a good value with a phenomenal warranty. But I can't even get a rep from Hyundai region, district, or HQ to even talk about this with me. Even if for some reason I am 100% at fault, surely a polite chat would not be out of order?
I can understand when a dealership may be unresponsive, or in this case, wish to pad on extra expenses even to covered drivetrain components. But no one from Hyundai itself?
These guys at Hyundai USA make the callousness of the Big Three during the 70s seem like first class customer service.
Fortunately, I have not had any problems with Hyundai..yet. With my local dealer, I don't expect any either. Sorry to hear of yours.
van
2. Remove the cover (A) in the trunk room after removing 2 screws.
3. Remove the 3 nuts holding the rear combination lamp then disconnect the 6P connector (A).
4. Remove the rear combination lamp and replace the bulbs; stop & tail lamp (A), turn signal lamp (B), back up lamp (C) and side marker lamp(D).
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
nerest hyundai dealership from me is forty miles away.
thanks/
It might not be a fuse, though. The engine controller will not turn on power to the fuel pump if certain fuel system sensors are bad. If the car just plain won't start and you are getting spark, you may need to get a new sensor. One of the more common sensors that eventually goes bad is the crankshaft position sensor.
first link
second link
I averaged 36.5 mpg. We travelled interstate 10 in south Texas and travelled at 80 mph for hundreds of miles. I was very impressed with the way this car handled at high speed with great mileage. This was a 5 speed stick shift. This car had 57,000 on it when I started out.
regards,
mippps
Not true in my experience - I've had no problem with Hyundai, but had very favorable experience with Ford over the course of decades - from an engine that lost a head gasket at 4 years and 3 months on a Lincoln (Ford stepped up and covered it, no charge whatsoever, no argument even though out of time on warranty) to a truck Ford bought back because of suspension problems, and gave me a brand new in to replace it. So, honestly, I believe a lot of these cases of problems, Ford, Hyundai or anyone else, stems from dealers attitudes. My dealer was stellar at trying to satisfy their customer, and would go to bat for me with Ford every time. If they won't, the Factory Rep is usually not as helpful.
I'm very disturbed to hear about the Hyundai problem, since I put lots of friends into Hyundais - but personally, have not had such a problem.
I recently had to take my car in to the dealership for the 7500 mile checkup.
Merely a few days before this visit my car refused to start after turning the ignition. So I left it alone since I HAD to take care of chores. Later in the day I came back and still the same problem but after pumping the gas while turning I was finally able to get the car started.
I went into the dealer and mentioned this and quickly he said that I'd gotten 'bad gas' and that I needed 'Fuel Injection Service' which cost me a whopping $135 atop the regular 7500 mile service charge.
So, what could I have done better? I know, I know, under normal circumstances with my older car which I'd gotten rid of already I would've gotten second opinions. But I needed to have my car running for many reasons and these guys managed to put the fear of Warranty problems into me (since this IS my first new car (7 months now)).
Friendly suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
gas pedal ,let up,and it starts right up and runs fine afterwards.any suggestions
as to what the problem is?it/s a 2001 elantra.
thanks