Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
"And please don't forget, while you have the vehicle, you still have the benefit of the immediate loaner vehicle in the event you have ANYTHING wrong with the vehicle. You will not have this benefit if you cancel the policy".
Can anybody help me with a curious problem with the ignition/control system on my Elantra that started immediately after a visit to the dealer for a dealer recall and routine service?
First the symptoms: I live in deep south Texas where the land is flat as a pancake and there is a nice 10 mile stretch of four lane divided highway close by that we have been using as a 20 mile test track. The only “hills” are four overpasses.
1) The car starts easily and getting on to the test track we accelerate up to the posted 70 mph and engage the cruise control. For the first 20 minutes the car behaves perfectly. The throttle position on level road is about one third.
2) After about 20 minutes at the next overpass when the cruise control asks for more throttle the car appears to hesitate as though it was miss firing. As soon as the throttle demand goes away the hesitations go away.
3) On the following overpass the hesitations are more severe and engine rpm drops. The transmission shifts down and when the hesitation goes away the rpm screams as the power comes back on. This all repeated about once a second with ride becoming increasingly jerky Not wanting to trash the transmission I disconnect the cruise control
4) At this point the engine will accept up to about half throttle before the hesitations start. Beyond half throttle the engine appears to die for may be half a second before the power comes back on briefly in a die/return, die/return cycle.
5) Over the next 30 minutes the useable throttle range decreases to the point where any throttle beyond idle causes it to die and then finally it won’t even idle.
6) If the car is allowed to rest and recover its sense of humor (or more likely to simply cool down) the whole one hour process can be repeated
What the dealer did before the problem started
1) Routine 50,000 mile service
2) Installed a new timing belt
3) The dealer recall was to lengthen the harness pigtail to the Mass Air Sensor
What we have done to attempt to rectify the problem
1) Checked all electrical and hose connections
2) The engine starts throwing error codes as the problem develops. Trouble is it throws too many codes apparently randomly. Using the codes as guidance, we have replaced:
a. The TPS (throttle position Sensor)
b. The ECM (Electronic Control Module)
c. The MAS (Mass Air Sensor)
3) Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filters
4) Cleaned the fuel system
We think we may be looking for an ignition/control system component that goes bad when it gets too hot.
What do you think?
Thanks
Archie
http://www.hyundaiusa.com/global/contactus/faq_warranty.aspx
Any comments on the timing of a first oil change under these conditions?
I think we're going to go with changing the oil every 3,000 miles on the Elantra. I'm already near the 1,000 mi mark, so we'll wait to do the first change in another month or so. It won't take me long to get to 3,000.
:shades:
I would like to have the pleasure to report my '02 GT (5-door) AT is doing well so far after 6-year of ownership.
It is currently at 55K miles and I just had 60K service (480), new battery (95), RR brake light (5) and rear brake pads (210) replaced at local dealers. The front pads still have 40% left and should last till 90K service (at which point I will have to spend over 400 for timing belt here in CA).
Except some trim issues, such as the black tapes on the doors, fixed under warranty early on, my car has not failed on me, not even once. Besides new tires at 35K, all other parts are still original unless mentioned above.
I bought Hyundai oil filter and washer online and used them when doing oil change at local shops. But always try to get the major things done at the dealer so that no BS later on should anything weird happens.
Overall, I really like the reliability and utility of this car.
just curious about what's included at the 60K service? almost $500 is a pretty penny to spend.
The 60K service is basically all factory required stuff (I opted out all the fancy stuff the dealer recommended), such as all fluids, filters, and check-ups. I skipped tire-rotation since I have that with america's tire. Timing belt is another 400+ which I chose not to do at this time (it is warrantied till 90K in CA although dealer did push me a little to do it with 60K service).
Yeah, since price for everything is inflated, it is not unusual to see the service expense gone up ( I remotely remember the 60K service only cost 300 about 3 years ago with the same dealer).
Good luck.
As far as the 60k service, I'd probably hesitate before doing it. Like I said, I have 136,000 miles on my car and it's still going strong. I live about 45 minutes away from the nearest Hyundai dealer so I do most of my own work and avoid the suggested services.
I've had to do routine stuff like brakes, tires, oils, wipers, headlights and battery. Beyond that, the only other work has been a timing belt and the clutch. The clutch was expensive, but I'm not surprised at it happening after 130,000 miles.
In other words, I'm not sure what the 60k service is going to do that will be worth $500.00.
thanks/
visiting host
The check engine light is on. I forget the exact codes, but basically there is a vacuum leak somewhere and I cannot find it. It recently had an emmisions test and passed but the CO2 reading was in the 300s. Is that normal?
It had its tranny worked on twice within the 1st 5 years I had the car and has never driven as smoothly as my family's same exact elantra.
Any thoughts of what it could be? It is really starting to annoy me as today I was holding up traffic.
into first gear.i took it to my nearest hyundai dealer and they replaced a sensor
on the transmission.it was fine after that . that might be the problem.good luck.
Belt covered in the initial 5yr bumper to bumper warranty, but not in the 10yr/100k mile warranty.
I have a 2001 elantra with 140,000 miles, its runs good, having problems with my check engine light, my mechanic says it now the AVAP system( anyone heard of this) the code reads 458 "very small leak" emission. he says there appears to be a small leak in the gas fuel system where there are two sensors and one canister, one of them has a pin hole. My check engine light will come on stay on for a couple of days then go off for about 5- 7 weeks, then return, when I fill my tank I always cut off the engine and use 89 octane gas. the car runs good, pickup is fine, in the past when the light come on there were different codes that we had fix. Does anyone know about this, the cost, and where parts can be obtained. I live in NYC and he is going to charge approx. $300.00 for repair which includes changing the two sensors and the canister, since you don't know which one has the hole. Please give me some insight on this problem asap.
much thanks :confuse: :P
can you tell me how my front headlights beams can be adjusted, they are too low.
thanks
This could be as simple as a leaking gas cap or problems with the various components of the EVAP system. Replacing the two sensors and the charcoal canister will not guarranty a complete fix. The leak can be anywhere from a damage filler pipe to leaking vapor lines and sensors. Your best bet is to bring it to HYUNDAI as they have the proper tool to find the leak or you could try replacing the gas cap first and making sure that gas cap is properly tightened after every gas fill up. Good luck.
If you go to Body Electrical > Wiring > Main Harness it shows you a picture/location of the passenger compartment relay box. Hope that helps.