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Comments
EDIT:
From the online service manual, they don't talk about the emergency release, but on the sedan it is under the trim by the drivers side trunk hinge. I believe it is in the same location on the hatch. When you pull the trim back, you can see the cable housing coming from the release handle by the seat. That is where the emergency release was connected on mine. Even if it isn't there, it gives you access to the lock/latch and you can release it with your finger.
My manual makes no reference to "normal" or "extreme" driving, neither offers different OCI for different driving conditions.
Thanks.
What baffles the mind is not only that, but how in Niagara Falls Ontario we can have 60K/100K km warranty and 6K oil change intervals, yet in Niagara Falls States side, just a quick walk across the bridge, you have double the oil change interval at 7.5K - DOUBLE - and your warranty now becomes 60K/100K miles - 60% better than ours in kms! It truly baffles the mind how they can get away with this.
But yeah, y'all get the short end of the stick on a lot of things. OTOH, you get the Mazda3 2.0 hatchback, the Mercedes-Benz B-Class, the Fit LX.
Yes, we're kind of lackadaisical up here in Canada on a lot of issues. We don't complain enough and pay for that complacency in areas like this warranty. Oh well, what can you do? (<--- case in point. LOL)
Next, I'll be debating with self on synthetic versus conventional. I don't want to drop that debate bomb in this thread, so will do a bit of looking around and latch onto an existing thread somewhere (if one does exist).
Off to get rust proofing done today. Factory rust proofing simply doesn't stand up to our salted winter roads in most makes and models, in my experience.
What symptoms are causing you to have the car aligned every six months?
I know the first part of this post looks a bit smart-[non-permissible content removed], but seriously, be very suspicious of alignment shops that keep telling you the alignment is off every six months. If a car (most any car) is properly aligned, has no worn/damaged components, has properly inflated tires, and is driven normally, it will stay in alignment. Doesn't matter if it is an Elantra, a pick-up truck, or a Corvette, the alignment doesn't just "move" without external forces (or failure to properly tighten the adjustments after the alignment.
Can I ask where you are having your alignments performed?
And are your tires balanced properly?
I just bought a 2009 Elantra GLS but found that when I used the power key to lock the car, the head light didn't blink although all doors can be locked. The manual says it should blink once, so is any problem with the key or the anti-theft system? Thanks!
Thanks!
My questions are:
1)Does anyone have experience with this belt breaking before replacement? If so, what was the mileage and age of the belt?
2) Has anyone replaced the belt and examined it for condition? If so, what was the mileage and age when replaced.
I trying to determine a reasonable replacement interval. If it can go from 60 to 75 thousand miles with minimal risk it would add 90,000 miles of usage to the total of the three vehicles in 150,000 of driving for each.
At this point I am leaning toward replacing it at 75,000 miles, at which point I'll examine it and report to the forum.
Thanks. --Jack
I wonder how many of them have failed and been fixed under warranty in CA...
Oh and it's not the same engine, as any fine-print lawyer type will tell you. It's the PZEV variant of the 2.0L which of course means it's different (even though the difference probably amounts to very little realistically).
The local shop foreman for Hyundai showed me the emissions for an Elantra, and pointed out that the car could be run in a closed garage without ever reaching hazardous carbon monoxide levels. Not that he would recommend testing it, though!
Want to try a neat trick? If you have an Elantra with a trip computer, get on smooth level pavement, take the speed up to 50mph, and look at the instant fuel economy. With the tires inflated to 32psi, the '05 model GT would hold at 50MPG! This is what is referred to as the "sweet spot" where aerodynamics, power band, and rolling resistance all come into balance. Push just to 55mph and it will come down several mpg, but watching that little 2.0L do it's thing is amazing.
I have nearly 45k and 5.5 years now on my '04 Elantra. I plan to run it to 60k, which will be about 2.5 more years, before I replace the timing belt. I am sure the dealership will tell me when I bring the car in for its 45k service in a week or two that it needs a timing belt replacement "at five years or 60k, whichever is first." We'll see.
Now, you don't need to replace it early, and can probably get away with waiting a thousand or two extra miles to get it done, but I'd advise you to have it replaced close to the schedule noted in your car's manual. To ensure you're getting a decent deal, call around to local places as well as the Hyundai dealer; any trained mechanic can do the work.
Also, generally, unless the other belts have been replaced recently, pay the few extra bucks and have them done at the same time. Many places won't charge any extra for the labor (just for the parts) as they're in there already.
After the warranty is up, do whatever you want. Stretch to 90K for replacements, for instance. But it's in your own best interest to maintain warranty coverage.
I'll probably follow yours and the manual's advice during the warranty period. The feedback will help me for the next time. Thanks again. --Jack
I get the same over-maintenance pitch from the dealers also. That's why I also get the cars serviced instead of having the kids go. Was in the auto repair business very briefly in the 80's and one thing that stuck with me was the high emphasis on selling product and service. --Jack
If you're an "average" driver, you can probably exceed the recommended intervals by 20-30% with no undue harm. That should be within the manufacturer's tolerances/fudge factor. So maybe every 75K v. 60K. I don't know that I would push it to the 100K that the CA warranty provides as that interval is legislated & not necessarily based on manufacturer data.
Thanks!
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1399813-fog_light_bulb_2008_elantra
" Do NOT put any additives in your transmission. What sort of transmission fluid did he use? Only use Hyundai specific transmission fluid! Have your mechanic flush it out again using hyundai atf. If you leave that additive in there, or use anything but hyundai atf, it will blow out your transmission and void your warranty."
My mechanic works in a shop that specializes in transmissions, he just used whatever transmission fluid they have in the pump...I'm sure i can get the additive flushed out but WHAT is this special hyundai transmission fluid i'm supposed to use? He said i can buy it from a dealer for like 7-8 bucks a qt... WHAT? i've researched a little bit and all i find is an atf plus 7176, that you can't buy anywhere but a hyundai or chrysler dealership. Should i seriously get my tranny flushed again or is this guy BSing me?
What about exhaust if any? thanks.