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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    How many miles on the vehicle, and did you do inner and out CV joints, or just one end? Vibrations tend to come from the inner, and will cease as soon as you let off the throttle.

    Where did you see the shimmy with the tires off? If you saw the rotor wobbling, and you already changed the rotors themselves, the hub must be bent or you have a really bad bearing!
  • hyundaiprobshyundaiprobs Member Posts: 3
    the car has 137,000 miles. i have changes the passenger cvj joint and not the drivers side. i just changed both bearings and it still has the vibration. when i jacked it up both sides had a wobble more on the passenger side than on the driver side. it was it really a wobble more a vibration when i got around 60-80 mph.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    If both inner and outer CV joints were changed, try pulling the wheel, caliper, and rotor off the passengers side. With the drivers side on the ground, apply the hand brake, chock the rear wheels and put the car in gear with the engine running and slowly let off the foot brake. This should let the passengers side axle turn at idle speed. Observe the hub and note any "wobble" to determine if the hub itself has been bent.

    With all that you have changed, I cannot think of anything else that would cause a wobble in the drive train.
  • blebnevusblebnevus Member Posts: 13
    My 2010 Elantra is only 3 months old, with <2,000 miles. Increasingly I've noticed that the car idles roughly, with a kind of vibration or slight shaking, when it's first started. This resolves once the car has warmed up.

    A much more subtle problem while driving, which may or may not be related, is harder to describe: something seems slightly uneven. My first thought was to check the tire pressure to see if one tire was much lower than the others, which turned out not to be the case. Could the wheels really need rebalancing on a car this new? Or is this something in the engine?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I would get it to the dealer and have them check it out. You may have a bad injector leaking down. Considering Hyundai has been using this engine for 10 years, I wouldn't be too concerned. Lot's of history and knowlege on this one, and a very good warranty, too.

    Could be something as simple as a loose plug wire, or such. Have you seen a drop in fuel economy?

    Just fixed an Accent (which is a totally different engine) the other day where one of the ignition coils failed. 5 minute repair, covered under warranty. I mention this because the problem first started similar to your symptoms. Weak spark caused the engine to run rough on first start (rich condition) and idle rough once warmed up.

    Then the coil totally died and became very obvious!
  • blebnevusblebnevus Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for your reply. Hard to say if mileage is affected because the car is so new, but I suspect not; I get about 27 mpg in a combination of city/highway driving.

    I figured a trip to the dealer is inevitable, but I want to know as much as I can before I go in.
  • tommieztommiez Member Posts: 11
    My 2010 sedan is only 6 months old and my right front passenger side wheel covering is misshapen already and full of scrapes. Can the plastic be molded and/or hammered back into shape and what to do about the scrapes. Thanks for your feedback.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    You could paint it, but your best bet would be to find a replacement, e.g. on eBay or a store that specializes in wheel covers. You could check the price from the dealer, but it's likely to be pricey.
  • jacktbjacktb Member Posts: 41
    See my post and replies on this subject message #3170 dated 5.11.09. I did an internet search for the glass and used the help of the forum to replace myself. It was not difficult. Good luck
  • jacktbjacktb Member Posts: 41
    PS: Here is the site I used to get the replacement glass: [email protected]
  • jayessjayess Member Posts: 59
    Thanks jack I see they have the mirror I need but am unclear if it also includes the back plate with heating coils and wiring and if it's a seamless replacment. Also found parts geek dot com with the entire mirror housing for $50 plus postage. For a few extra pesos I might just get the whole piece, am thinking it might make for an easiet install since I'm concerned with the backing plate coming out again.
  • blebnevusblebnevus Member Posts: 13
    Update to problem reported in post #3350: Left the car at a dealership overnight so they could start it cold. Not only did they claim not to notice any unevenness while driving, but they also didn't acknowledge the much more pronounced throbbing on starting up. More precisely, the mechanic's report (and service manager's comment in person) amounted to: The tests didn't find anything. The computer doesn't show any problem, therefore you don't have one. The service mgr. then suggested I buy a higher-octane fuel (for a 4-cyl. car) even though he conceded that couldn't have caused the problem I brought it in for.
  • jacktbjacktb Member Posts: 41
    edited September 2010
    Yes it is just the mirror glass. Replacement is easy, just follow this video (minus the part about installing the LED kit). You can remove the mirror from the housing by prying the edges with even pressure on one or both sides with your hands. It pops out and snaps back in when you are done with a controlled jab to the center. --Jack

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM2u7lWscKg&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Esharkracing%2- - - Ecom%2Facecart%2Fbin%2Fshop%2Ecgi%3Faction%3Dview%26itemID%3Dledmirrordiy%26cate- - - %3D070000000&feature=player_embedded
  • honey429honey429 Member Posts: 1
    How do I change the thermostat on my 2000 Hyundai Elantra GLS.
  • briancbirchbriancbirch Member Posts: 1
    I just recently (as of last week) purchased a new elantra. When I asked about changing the oil myself they mentioned to always use a hyundai oil filter as "other brands" do not work because of oil pressures and sealing issues resulting in excess vibrations. If you have an oil filter other than a hyundai brand I would first do an oil change with a new filter before sending it to the dealer--could be the issue and save you some $$
  • wvudrummerwvudrummer Member Posts: 1
    My Elantra has 150000 and I change the oil every 3-6K and I have never used a Hyundai Filter
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    edited November 2010
    Well, your dealer is right, kinda. There are aftermarket filters out there that are of similar construction (Wix Premium, for one) but he isn't kidding about the quality of the Hyundai filter, either. The steel used is heavier, there is more filter media, the seal is more robust, etc. Now, a filter such as the Wix will work fine, but I have found that the cost of the Hyundai filter is only slightly higher than the premium Wix filter, and you get the added advantage of, in the event of an engine problem, being able to show the dealer that even though you were doing your own oil changes, you were using the genuine Hyundai filter.

    I have two Hyundai that use the same filter. I buy them ten at a time from the local dealer and get a discount. Actually costs less than the Wix, but about double the Fram (which is pure junk in this application.) Don't take my word for it. Cut open a Hyundai filter and a Fram filter then decide which one you want protecting your engine.

    BTW, at one time a few years ago, Delco made a filter for the Hyundai 2.0L Elantra that was a dead ringer for the OEM Hyundai filter. A couple of years ago Delco changed the design and the replacement was not nearly as well made.
  • mikezak3473mikezak3473 Member Posts: 4
    My 2007 Elantra produces a 'clunk' sound when going over bumps / rough roads at a lower speed. When I took the vehicle in for the Timing Belt change @ 62,000 miles.

    Pep Boys mentioned to me something about Strut joints or mountings being loose -- but not dangerous to drive. Could someone tell me what that means and the cost to fix???
  • jayessjayess Member Posts: 59
    We have an '06 Elantra GLS with 43.5K miles - purchased it in March 09 (26.3K miles) the original 5/60 warranty is set to expire in early January. SInce my daughter has it at school - and since the plan is to have it for a loooong time - I'm erring on the side of caution with scheduled maintenence. Probably could get by with letting it go but I'm planning to replace the timing belt at the end of the month. My dealer will do just the belt for 318$ or 400$ for the timing and the 3 other belts which sounds like the plan. And I'll save 50$ additional with their web coupon.
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,948
    Best to do this at the same time since the engine will be open...have heard they'd have to do the same tear down to replace it also so why not do it all & save the labor costs. Just a suggestion.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    I agree on doing the water pump at the same time., but I'd do it at the first timing belt change north of 100K miles. Water pumps should be good for 140K miles +/-.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jayessjayess Member Posts: 59
    edited December 2010
    Giving him the opening to pick my pocket, I did ask if that's something they do recommend for exactly that reason it just being parts since everything is open. The service advisor said that they typically don't unless since theyusually don't see much of a problem with the water pumps. Of course he could be setting himself up for a bigger payday down the road, but given the mileage on that I'll probably just roll the dice - or buy the extended warranty!
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,948
    Since I usually keep my cars between 7 to 8 years, I'd just have it done in this situation...I don't like surprises and need my car to work, period. Come next month when I retire, I'll probably keep the same opinion...I like my rides properly maintained. And since my total mileage will probably be cut about 66%, my current Civic will be with me well into the next decade, G-d willing. Plan to keep my $ growing in the retirement accounts, thank you very much. This could actually be my last car if my spinal issues get much worse, which makes it that much more important to keep everything running tip top.

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • jayessjayess Member Posts: 59
    You have a valid point since the plan is to keep it in the stable for some time to come. Of course I can also purchase the Hyundai extended warranty from my dealer which covers the pump and darn near everything else. Originally they wanted 1499$, for Platinum - when I asked how much just for powertrain, which would make it as though we were the original owner, said 1349$ and then 'tell you what, we'll give you Platinum for that price' so now I have about 4.5 weks to mull it over, that's when the original 5/60 expires. Decisions decisions
  • kjcolekjcole Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 elantra with 90000 miles on it. I have been having an issue with the transmission slipping between 3rd and 4th gear. It doesn't happen all the time. I had the problem once before at 52000 miles and took it to the dealer. They told me that the transmission needed serviced. I had bought the car with 40000 on it and it had a 12000 mile bumper to bumper warranty on it and I was just outside of it. I argued with them that it should've been serviced before I had bought the car and shouldn't need a service after just over 12000 miles on it so they serviced it for free. That seemed to fix the problem. I know that hyundai recommends changing the fluid every 30000 miles. I have had the fluid changed here recently and I am still having the problem. It's not everyday and it has only happened twice since I've had the fluid changed. My question is should I go ahead and change the filter. It is a pain in the butt to get to and it looks like it has never been changed. I already have the filter because I thought it was going to be like a normal car and have the transmission pan on the bottom of the transmission not the side and almost impossible to get to. Thank you for your help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    You might want to check with a reliable Hyundai service department because even though the aftermarket parts houses show (and sell) a filter for the 2005 Elantra 4spd, my 2005 GT didn't have a filter. That's why you change the fluid every 30K; no filter.
  • itc55itc55 Member Posts: 3
    Just picked up my 2011 GLS last week. I was completely happy with it until I discovered that the carpeting in the back (where the flooring rolls up to meet the back seat) is very poorly fitted. The carpeting bulges out across the entire length of the seat to the point that it even wrinkles slightly -- it's not adhered to the seat or floor surface at all. If I push against the carpeting, it seems to have a full inch of air between it and the bottom of the seat structure. I can press it back so that it hugs the floor and the seat, but then it just pops back out when I release it.

    Anyway, I took it to the service center today and they insist that all 2011 Elantras are like this. "It's a solid fitted piece that we can't really do anything about."

    Everything else in the car is so tight that this really bothers. Of course, the dealer is sold out of the 2011 and I can't personally verify that "all Elantras are made this way" since there are none on the lot. Any other owners out there notice this? Is this really a universal problem?
  • perno13perno13 Member Posts: 6
    I don't have a 2011, but this seems like the dealer just threw whatever he had in there. I could be wrong though...definitely check out another 2011 at another dealership if possible.
  • itc55itc55 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply perno.

    Just to be clear for anybody else that comes across this -- I'm not talking about the floor mats. It's the actual carpet upholstery that is bulging up. Where the carpeting meets the back seat -- it looks like a kid who's wearing his dad's suit. Just doesn't fit right.

    Looks like a manufacturing error to me. But, dealer says it's "normal."
  • newhartfordnewhartford Member Posts: 49
    This post might better have been in the 2012 Elantra section. They never changed the heading to 2011 when it became apparent that the new Elantra was coming out as a 2011. Anyway - your problem appears to be evidence of shoddy assembly as has been evidenced in the 2011 Sonata board reports as rattles and squeaks. I plan on buying in the spring and this sort of thing gives me pause. Come on Alabama - do better and make us all proud of made in the USA.
  • itc55itc55 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks -- I'll check out the 2012 forum. I was wondering why there was a place for 2012 and not 2011. Now I know...
  • bigdogbitubigdogbitu Member Posts: 39
    Hmmmm.......

    I will have to look at mine to see if it has the same issue when I return from vacation!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I can assure you that this rear carpet problem is NOT common to all 2011 Elantras. I know because today I gave a 2011 Elantra on the showfloor of my local dealer a good going-over, and specifically checked the fit of the rear carpet. It looked fine, i.e. fitted to the floor, and tucked neatly under the rear seat cushion.

    If I were you I'd go back to the dealer, and ask the service manager to accompany you as you both inspect a few 2011 Elantras on their lot (once they get some in), and compare the rear carpet to your car's. And tell the service manager you want your carpet fixed/replaced under warranty. If they won't do it, tell the service manager you want to talk with the Hyundai district customer service manager (or whatever they are called).

    You could also try a different dealer... one that is more interested in satisfying its customers.
  • bowsmokebowsmoke Member Posts: 2
    Seems like you are living my life...;-) Except that I went a couple steps further. I did replace the tranny since I purchased the car (@93K miles) for a reasonable price. The tran went at about 100K, but what got my goat was the fact that it went AGAIN in less than 40K miles. Unfortunately, I was outside of the tranny shops warranty. Anyway the engine also blew around 129K and I replaced that (just before the tranny went south the second time). At this point, I am a little weary and not considering I got such a good deal after having spent approximately 3 times the original cost of the car over the past three years of use. I have heard that the 1997 model was a turning point for Hyundai...just wish I would have known that ahead of time. I'm actually selling the car to a mechanic this afternoon for basically the cost of one of my many repair bills...I'm feeling lucky!
  • spock072spock072 Member Posts: 12
    If both my fog lights are out on my 2008 hyundai elantra (72,000 Miles) then is that the fuse or the bulbs ?
  • bob441bob441 Member Posts: 1
    I needed a new wheel bearing. Mechanic replaced hub and bearing. When I pointed out that the two screws on the front of hub did not match up was told that wouldn't hurt anything. The next day I contacted a mechanic at dealer and was told the wrong part was used. He would not say if not having two front screws was ok or not.
    The car is driving good now. I was hearing a very bad grinding noise.
    Do you think there could be any problems without the two screws?
  • mike_s2mike_s2 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone give me a basic idea on how to replace the radiator in my Elantra? I do have average to maybe a little above repair experience but do not want to get in over my head.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    RADIATOR

    REMOVAL
    Drain the engine coolant.

    Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) cooler hoses.

    Disconnect the fan motor connector
    Separate the air conditioner condenser with radiator.
    Remove the heat shield.
    Remove the battery and battery tray.

    Remove the air duct and make the task space.
    Remove the reservoir tank and make the task space. (10 mm bolts)

    Remove the radiator upper bracket (10mm bolts) then pull up the radiator.
    Remove the cooling fan from the radiator.

    INSTALLATION

    Install the cooling fan to the radiator.
    Install the radiator at the air conditioner condenser. Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
    Connect the fan motor connector.
    Install the upper and lower radiator hoses, and ATF cooler hoses.
    Fill with engine coolant.
    Start engine and check for leaks.
  • ezrateachezrateach Member Posts: 1
    I had a Nissan Sentra for fourteen years and 160,000 miles with very few real problems. But eight years ago I puchased a two-year old 2001 Elantra. I swear to you that the minute that car hit 100,000 miles everything major that could go wrong with it, did go wrong. For example,this summer I had to have the air conditioner fixed because of a major leak; cost: $990. Two weeks after that, my electric windows would periodically fail to raise or lower. The problem is still not fixed but the mechanics just figured out that the wires are corroded between the door panels and body of the car; the kits to replace them, before labor, will cost $1320.

    I won't even go into all the other costs of just routine maintenance, which are also very high (ok, belts replaced: $750.)

    I am warning you that Hyundai's, in my opinion, are financial disasters waiting to happen. I am a private school teacher, and the huge costs to me are taking major hit on my savings.

    Put simply: I will never buy a Hyundai again, and I advise anyone here not to do so either.
  • perno13perno13 Member Posts: 6
    You're barking up the wrong tree, people that read this already own Hyundais for the most part. Also, I have a 2002 Elantra that has had minimal problems and has 150,000 miles on it. I'm about to get my second timing belt on it and it will cost me around $450. You have to shop around for those kinds of things otherwise people will charge you $750.

    I'll probably always buy Hyundais, to each their own.
  • joegiantjoegiant Member Posts: 90
    Awesome response, perno. My thoughts exactly! But ya know, if what this person said were true about ALL Hyundais, wouldn't these new Elantras and Sonatas come with DEEEEEP discounts? Nope. Appears they are damn near getting MSRP for these things. Imagine that. :)
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,948
    So far, it's been a great little car for my daughter...last month I complained that one of the sun visors was not staying up...they replaced them both under warranty! Besides that, only had to do oil changes/rotation and that's it. We're so pleased that the Elantra and Accent are on my wife's short list. So after having a Hyundai product in the family since 2008, I'd say it's just as reliable as the other Japanese brands...and we also own a Nissan, Honda and a Mazda...all great cars also!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • mrgrey43mrgrey43 Member Posts: 1
    to ezra,I think that their can be problems with all cars,certain makes do seem to be more reliable than others,you probaly pay for those as well.
    I owned 2 jeep yj's over 20 years,traded the last for a 2003 kia rio wagon when my wife and I had kids.The Kia has been faily reliable with just over 90,000 kms on it.
    Back in 88 my wife bought a 85 hyundai pony,It has 157,000 kms on it,which is low for the year.People make jokes about it and I understand its a cheaply made car but its been a great car as a dailydriver,not much has really gone wrong with it besides a cracked distibutor cap causing arcing and the pistons wanting to turn at different times(sounded like a hammer on the hood).
    Sadly the old pony is starting to blow blue,and I had trouble passing aircare this year,its also a little beat up from some accidents so I've been looking at used cars most of the summer looking to replace my DD.
    I looked at another Kia wagon,subaru outback,ford focus wagon,but I've decided on another Hyundai,a 2000 elantra wagon,getting it inspected this weekend,already test drove it,ran straight and true,cosmetically its a 11 year old car but I think this car will be as reliable as my last 26 year old hyundai.The only thing that concerns me is the power windows failing,but I've read that about the ford focus as well.
    I think Hyundai make good cars,If I could afford a new accent or elantra I'd get one.Everyone has their opinion I hope you get a car your happy with ezra,make mine a Hyundai
  • mojave2kmojave2k Member Posts: 5
    10 years old, 100,000+ miles, bought used, (so you do not know what abuse it had before you bought it). Old A/C lines can leak, and where do you live that might add to your chance of corrosion. I am guessing the first 9 years were not too bad as you are just now complaining.
  • tennisdoc1tennisdoc1 Member Posts: 1
    My manual shows below coin box--yet nothing---i looked completely and saw wiring, connectin only--my relay box under hd and no issues with that. As I want to find out if my rear marker light has a blown fuse-yet turn signal and flashers work---quoted a $$ fee I cannot pay for the fix--any help appreciated
    Teresa
  • rtshonrtshon Member Posts: 1
    My wife's Elantra had a shim the first time that the repair shop changed the tires. I pulled all four wheels & ground the center holes out. It appears that the wheels fit much to tight to start with & after 25K miles there was enough rust to keep the rims from seating against the hubs. Retorqued to 80# & problem solved !! The car now has 89K miles & I just changed the tires out for the winter ! Snow Tires for the next four months in upstate NY.
    Personally I don't care for the car. I'm 6'3" & 215# & always feel cramped. On the other hand it beats the tar out of the gas milage on the truck !!
  • omataseomatase Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2000 Elantra GLS (auto) and have owned it since it had fewer than 10,000 miles on it. It now has about 130,000 miles on it. Here is a brief history: A few years after purchase we got in a minor fender bender. Nothing but aesthetic damage (as far as we know) and the hood hasn't quite fit right ever since (barely noticeable really). Shortly thereafter the car overheated which I think caused some of the rubber seals to melt because ever since then it's burned oil very slowly (about a quart every 2 or 3 months). At some point the engine also ran with almost no oil in it for a little while because we hadn't discovered the fact that the oil was burning off.

    It's been 3 or 4 years since we've had any issues with the engine that wasn't minor (hoses being replaced, etc) but recently the engine has had a hard time starting. When I opened the oil compartment to put new oil in I saw a few ounces of white-yellow goo on the back of the oil cap. In my experience this means a blown head gasket or a cracked head.

    Traditionally people would just replace the car in this condition, but I'm much more keen on the idea of just replacing the engine to get another 10 years out of the car. What engine replacement options do I have for this car? Are there new engines out there I can buy for it? Is there an engine I can buy that will give me more power and be fresh and new and good? Should I replace the transmission at the same time? As I stated above it is an auto. My father-in-law was all excited about us getting an Accord VTech engine but then said it wouldn't be possible since it's an automatic transmission. I don't really know why.

    Also, what is the presiding wisdom on how long a car can run under these current conditions? Does a few ounces of white goo mean I have a few hours left before it will die, or do I have another 10,000 miles on it potentially? I realize there's no exact science here so guestimates work fine for me. I do think I noticed a tiny amount of goo in the same place 6 months ago or so.

    Thanks for your help everyone!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    edited December 2011
    I think it unlikely you can find a new engine for a 2000 Elantra. At best you'd get a remanufactured engine or a used engine. And it would be pricey. Putting anything other than the factory-spec engine into the car, e.g. a Honda engine, would be a tricky proposition. You might be able to get a newer Beta engine, e.g. Beta II, to fit, but I really don't know. You should check with a good mechanic who knows Hyundais on that.

    If it were me, I wouldn't put that much money into a 12 year old car, one that was designed in the mid-'90s and fairly crude by modern standards. One alternative to consider is to replace the car. I just checked within 100 miles of me using a well-known Internet car locator service and found 3 2001-2002 Elantras with under 125k miles for under $4,000 asking price. These cars are a generation newer than your 2000 and IMO are far superior cars. One of these was a 2002 GT hatch, which is a very nice car for the money (I have a 2004 GT hatch). Or you could look for other cars in that price range.
  • omataseomatase Member Posts: 2
    I had an acquaintance that had a probe (I think it was) that paid a few thousand to get a new engine in it for purposes of beefing it up. Do you think they just found someone that new probes well? Or are probes easily upgraded?

    Thanks for your help
  • driver_1234driver_1234 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with 5-speed manual transmission and 48k miles. (yep only 48k. I work from home and the car sits in the garage 3-4 days a week) I bought the car new. It has not had a hard life.

    The car has developed an intermittant shifting problem. When shifting, the RPMs increase to 4000-4500+, and accelleration is next to nothing. I let up off the gas, and things recover until I shift to the next gear. It acts as though I had the clutch peddle half way down.

    The problem is very intermittant. It occurs one day, then is fine for 2-3 weeks. A couple times, the Elantra was fine the first part of a shoping trip, had the problem in the middle, then was fine again the last part of the trip.

    My mechanic didn't find any obvious problems during a quick inspection. We both kinda feel that if the clutch was the problem, then the problem would occur frequently. Any ideas?
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