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Or maybe not.
http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=394889753#_394889- 753
So, wdoran, the dealership might try to replace the vinyl first, and then paint it if the replacement vinyl won't stick on properly.
If they are any good, the mechanic should charge you less than a half an hour labor. $35-$50
Curious as to why you bought 5 door handles instead of fixing the door? Did you take it to the dealer? If you did, did you explain the hard to open door?
If you had the same person/shop put the 5 door handles on, they are not very nice mechanics & should be avoided.
Anyone know of a good repair kit to fix a small gouge in the padded armrest? Is this leather or vinyl? The dealer says there is no armrest replacement...you have to replace the entire door panel.
Thanks.
It's not hitting the latch like it should. The door has dropped or sagged dragging on the latch area, or part of the mechanism that opens the latch is loose or bent.
Jeff
1) Replace your oil and filter
2) Replace your tranny fluid.
These are the two fluids that are most affected by a deep water event. I've been told that the Elantra pulls air from an air pocket in the left front fender. This gives you a saftey margin in deep water before you hydraulic the engine (suck in water).
How have the other 9 Elantras treated you and your family? If these are the only big problems in 10 years and 10 Elantras, that's not too bad in my book, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
I know that when I'll need new tires in the future, I'll probably check out Wal Mart or Discount Tire (and a few other similar tire shops). I see no reason at all to pay more than I have to for something decent.
Gas pedal: I had this problem also. Took the car to the dealer two times for it. First time they lubricated my accelerator cable. Second time they repositioned my accelerator cable. Both times when I left the dealer the problem was gone only to return in a couple of weeks. The gas pedal would feel snatchy and grabby. No smooth travel. Now this is MY fix:
Get a can of your favorite lube (I used WD-40). On the accelerator cable there is a small black cap where the end of the cable is held on a flange. Pull the small black cap foward. Now the place where the cable exits the outer shield is exposed. Place the spray tip against this opening where the cable exits. Place a paper towel around the cable and the spray tip. Now while holding the towel and tip in one hand (tightly) and can in the other spray the lube into the cable for about a minute or longer. This will force the oil to travel the length of the cable. Replace the small black cap. Your done. clean the area (oil will have dripped out). Now step on your gas pedal and feel the Lexus like travel! I did this a few months ago and it still feels great.
PS: Some dealers will replace your accel cable if you complain enough. The new one may end up feeling the same in time though. Hope this helps.
That being said, I have been in the engineering end of electronics for over 25 years, and have a lot of automotive electronics experience. I'll bet a dollar to a doughnut that this is going to turn out to be a case of tolerance build up. Put the temp sensor at one extreme of the acceptable tolerance and some other sensor (map, tps, O2)at the other end and the ECM will not see a problem. This particular problem has been showing up at ~18K to 22K miles. My '02 is a stick, so if I have to go in a hurry, I just feather the clutch.
Accelerator cable: Make them change it. The cable can have a burr inside the housing and will not bind unless it is actually pulling on the throttle body. If you disconnect it to test it, there will never be any binding. Lube or realignment will only mask the problem.
Brakes: Very common. During break in the rear drums dump a lot of dust into the adjustment mechanism. Shoes don't adjust up and start rattling under braking. Dealer will pull drums, wash out the dust with cleaner, adjust up the slack, and the problem will not come back. At least, mine did it at 5K, and with 21K has not done it again.
y'all have a good evening.
Jim
Looks like I misread his post the first time and went off on a tangent about a fix. I reread his post and your advice is right on. Sorry about that.
jlflemmons:
The original poster has a GT hatchback. Therefore he has rear disc brakes.
I am hesitant to continue with the Elantras since I believe the brake design has remained the same from '01 thru to present. The bad low beam problem I believe is a design flaw in the lamp moounting design and from what I have heard has plagued many other people. I am not sure if Hyundai has addressed this problem. I seemed to have resolved it for myself by ensuring that the dealer installs the bulb with the tab in the correct position. I've also added a piece of electrical tape across the back of the wire harness to improve the bulbs "stability. Seems to be working.
"In another recall, Hyundai Motor America is fixing fluid tubes for rear brakes on 312,000 Elantras and Tiburons. The affected models are 2001-03 Elantras and 2002-03 Tiburons. NHTSA says the brake tubes come in contact with steering gearbox mounting brackets and could leak. Dealers will reposition the lines, install clips to secure them and apply anti-corrosive material where contact may have occurred."
FYI
Problem 2: The trans is acting weird. By that I mean when I am in first, second, or third and step on the gas and take the car over 3000 RPM's it hesitates and then catches up. Has anyone seen this problem and if so have you had if corrected?
Transmission: I believe this is not your transmission but the engine. There is a engine hesitation from 3800 - 4000 rpm. Not as noticable in an automatic. This is a design issue from what I understand. Some people have installed a Cold Air Intake and claim it has lessened the effect.
Some cars need super glue to stay together (like my last 2 Grand Am's -- an 87 and a 96). The Elantra seems to need WD-40!
Other rattles I've had:
1) squeak in the driver's seat -- turned out to be something in the belt buckle, and WD-40 fixed it
2) rattle in the passenger side front door -- a simple pull of the handle fixes this (it happens when there is a shift from warm to cold temperatures)
3) other rattles that seem to be coming from the doors when the weather goes from one extreme to the other (fixed by rolling down the windows a little and rolling them up)
4) a slight rattle from the a/c area if I turn the a/c on and drive over bumpy roads (it goes away shortly, and now that I think about it, it might actually be that rearview mirror)
I don't seem to have the rattle coming from the front passenger side seat belt area, but then again, I've sprayed WD-40 there as well
Actually, I noticed shimmy after I got this car and dealler changed 4 new wheels/tires for me finally. Before giving me new ones, dealler tried alignment / balance but no one solved the problem. I thought shimmy will never bother me again.
Any suggestion is welcome
My new 03 has them and they seem to ride well.
Can you narrow the shimmy down to a side or front/rear of the vehicle?
If new tires did not do it, and you think the rims are balanced, I would assume that is a worn front end part?
Not sure if these vehicles require a 4 wheel alignment or not.
Let us know how it works out for you.
stan
I can feel the steering wheel is vibrating at 65-72 mph, but I cannot tell where it comes from.
The problem happened after I had a tire rotation recently. Before rotation, there is no shimmy/vibration at all.
Again as I say, nothing has deterred me from recommending this car or a possible future purchase.
The noise gets really annoying when you drive over bumpy roads. I'm thankful it's just the mirror -- the dealer should have no problem replacing it under warranty (and I'll raise a big stink if they won't replace something as simple as this!).
Anyone else have this issue? This is the first vehicle in my life I have driven that has had such a silly, this-is-the-year-2003-and-this-shouldn't-happen-but-it-is sort of problem.
I started to have issues with my wheels/tires for no reason at all at about 9K miles. I wonder what will happen when I reach 18K and these new tires and wheels have 9K on them too.
Has anyone here had any luck with putting on a set of decent aftermarket tires? Could that be the best cure for vibration issues?