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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Not if you have AAA or Honda care (comes with roadside assitance)

    And, of course, those services come gratis! ;)

    tidester, host
  • romanmromanm Member Posts: 34
    Every 100 lbs is 13 HP

    Excuse me my ignorance, but what's "13 HP"? If the internet is right, it's like 1-2% reduction in MPG per 100 lbs.

    A heavier driver will have worse fuel economy than a light weight driver

    No wonder people are complaining about low MPG in winter -- they just have more clothes and carry all that extra weight from holidays :)
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "Excuse me my ignorance, but what's "13 HP"? If the internet is right, it's like 1-2% reduction in MPG per 100 lbs. "

    I think it is .2%, not 2%.
  • jacketzipperjacketzipper Member Posts: 2
    It may be that your rear hydraulic fluid needs to be changed. I've had mine done several times now for the same reason and each time the noise disappears after. I've also had a higher pitched noise when starting off on icy snow and the wheels are spinning before they get traction. Same solution. It seems that mileage and/or time is not a good indicator or when the fluid needs changing. Hope this helps. I have a 2002 with 178,000 kms.
  • jacketzipperjacketzipper Member Posts: 2
    Try changing the rear hydraulic fluid
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    Read this.

    varmint, "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" #3, 22 Nov 2003 9:10 am

    You can change the fluid yourself. It's no more difficult than an oil change. But it does need to be changed. otherwise you'll end up needing a whole new unit.
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    Hmmm... I'm on the edge of the Boston suburbs. You do more city driving that I did, but I was getting 25 mpg from my 1999 CR-V when I had it.

    Since you are getting the same mileage on the highway as you are in the city, I would suspect aerodynamic issues before anything else. Air resistance accounts for approximately half the fuel used at speeds over 55 mph.

    So, do you use a roof rack? Have you installed any other accessories (side steps, for example)?

    This is not going to be an issue with weight (unless you overload the vehicle for long trips). Weight is mostly significant when you are frequently changing speeds. In other words, city driving. When you're cruising on the highway, weight is not a big factor.

    BTW, I ran my tires at 28 psi and got better mileage than most others. I don't buy into the notion that you should inflate them above 30 psi.
  • romanmromanm Member Posts: 34
    I think it is .2%, not 2%

    No, it's 1-2% per 100 lbs. You can check by yourself:

    http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/103164/article.html

    http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/driveHabits.shtml
  • jimbresjimbres Member Posts: 2,025
    Your city driving mileage (18-19 mpg, according to your post) sounds pretty respectable to me, given that it reflects cold-weather driving. You should pick up a couple of miles per gallon once the temperature warms up.

    FWIW, I have an '06 EX w/5-spd.stick, also purchased in November, that I use almost exclusively for the 3-mile drive to my railroad station & for running local errands on weekends. I've averaged just a hair over 19 mpg so far, & I'm quite happy with that number. (I live in the NYC metro area, BTW.) Can't give you a highway number because I don't use my CR-V for that kind of driving.

    Re highway mileage: don't forget that this is a boxy, high wind resistance vehicle & expect to burn a lot of extra fuel when you drive at 75 mph. See what happens when you hold your speed to 60-65 mph. Yeah, I know that this won't win you a lot of friends on the Mass Pike, but it should make a big difference in your fuel consumption. If you can bring yourself to set the cruise control to 60, you should easily hit the mid-20s.

    Re break-in mileage: although this is my 1st CR-V, my experience with Honda cars goes back to the mid-70s. You'll probably see an uptick in fuel economy once you're north of 5K miles. (You're more likely to see an improvement in your highway numbers than your city numbers.)

    To sum up: from what you say, your car is working OK. Slow down some on the highway, wait for spring to settle in & come back in a few weeks to let us know what happens.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    Autozone says .5 mpg per 100 lbs. There is a fair possibility I was reading some people's actual MPG determined by the weight of the vehicle and 1-2%.

    "every 200 pounds of unnecessary weight shaves one mile per gallon off your fuel mileage."

    Actually, the government site says that it varys based on the weight of the vehicle. Smaller vehicles are more affected by additional weight.

    http://autos.msn.com/advice/article.aspx?contentid=4018909
  • romanmromanm Member Posts: 34
    Autozone says .5 mpg per 100 lbs

    0.5-MPG saving for a 25-MPG vehicle gives us exactly 2% saving. So, I guess, we are both right.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    These percentage do add up though.

    2% from the weight reduction
    5% from the clean air filter
    5% from proper oil
    3% from inflated tires
    10% from Acetone

    and you got your self a 25% increase in fuel economy. 25% increase on a 25 mpg base brings you to over 30 mpg.
  • djv5djv5 Member Posts: 3
    My 2006 CR-V is just now 3 months old, 8500 miles. I've had it in 5 times, for windshield wiper fluid that runs in the inside of my drivers side door, along the base of the doorframe (not sure how to exactly describe it). It's not an extreme amount, but enough to get on my pants when I'm not paying attention to avoiding it each day. They've changed a hose, the wiper fluid tank, and this last time they said it was 'normal', that all CR-V's do that. I can't believe everyone has to be careful how they exit their car, to avoid getting wiper fluid on them! They suggested I buy a different color wiper fluid (other than the blue that's in there now), so it won't be so noticeable!
    I've also had problems with the day/night rear view mirror, the accessory power jack blowing fuses, and now the cover to my visor mirror broke off!
    I realize these are all minor problems, but doesn't it seem a little much, for a 3 month old vehicle?? Thanks for any advice anyone has.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My 2006 CR-V is just now 3 months old, 8500 miles. I've had it in 5 times, for windshield wiper fluid that runs in the inside of my drivers side door, along the base of the doorframe (not sure how to exactly describe it). It's not an extreme amount, but enough to get on my pants when I'm not paying attention to avoiding it each day. They've changed a hose, the wiper fluid tank, and this last time they said it was 'normal', that all CR-V's do that. I can't believe everyone has to be careful how they exit their car, to avoid getting wiper fluid on them! They suggested I buy a different color wiper fluid (other than the blue that's in there now), so it won't be so noticeable!
    I've also had problems with the day/night rear view mirror, the accessory power jack blowing fuses, and now the cover to my visor mirror broke off!
    I realize these are all minor problems, but doesn't it seem a little much, for a 3 month old vehicle?? Thanks for any advice anyone has.


    Are you sure you are not spraying the windshield while your window is down?

    Is the actual hose leaking, or the washer fluid is getting there from when you spray the windshield. Maybe I have long legs, but I never touch the door sills. Maybe you should get side steps? I'd imagine with the road salt and other debris collecting there, my pants would be dirty all the time if I let them touch the sills.

    Is this your first SUV? Do you have a small statue?

    Wear blue jeans so it blends in :-)
  • romanmromanm Member Posts: 34
    ... and you got your self a 25% increase in fuel economy. 25% increase on a 25 mpg base brings you to over 30 mpg

    Or, assuming a new car with no extra weight, clean air filter, proper oil, correctly inflated tires, and good-quality fuel already has 25 mpg, then you can get as much as a 25% decrease in fuel economy as you drive it with time in everyday situations. That brings you to less than 19 mpg. Works both ways, doesn't it?
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    Minor problems or not, you should be able to get them fixed.

    I strongly recommend trying another dealer for service. If you can, contact Honda directly. They can open a case file for you and track the problem. Or, if you visit another dealer, have them contact the local zone office.
  • cwood1cwood1 Member Posts: 4
    Do you know if it is really necessary to use only Honda OEM parts(spark plugs, wires, rotor, etc) when doing a tune up? I had my 2001 serviced at an independent and they used aftermarket parts (non Honda) and I have been having trouble with it ever since (losing power,running rough and misfiring ). So, I took it to the Honda dealer and they tell me it is because I did not use Honda parts. Is that true? Any experience with this problem? :confuse:
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    You don't HAVE to use original Honda parts, the just have to up to specs. I've never used Honda spark plugs on my 99 CRV and I've changed them 2 or 3 times. I'd say your problems sound like either one of the aftermarket parts is bad or the tech just didn't do it right.
  • djv5djv5 Member Posts: 3
    Actually, I 'tested' it, and didn't wash my windows for 2 weeks, and it still leaked. So far, I've had 3 straight 'leak free' days :) And this is after they apparently did nothing, and decided it was normal to leak like it did. Strange.... but still happy it's improved. My legs are quite long, and although it's not every time, there are times my legs touch the door sills...I travel with my job, and get in and out of my car probably 15-20 times a day. I've had an Explorer the past 9 years.
    Good tip on the bluejeans--I'm surprised the service dept didn't recommend that, along with the recommendation to change to a different color of wiper fluid!
  • djv5djv5 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice!
  • cwood1cwood1 Member Posts: 4
    :confuse: Ok so now the Honda Dealer is telling me I have burnt valves (more than one, apparently) and need to have the head replaced. Can anyone tell me what causes burnt valves and does that really mean that the head needs to be replaced? Does this sound reasonable? I'm not very car savvy, but that seems extreme to me. Is this all because of using non-Honda spark plugs? :confuse:
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    " Is this all because of using non-Honda spark plugs? "

    Definately not. I don't know the symptoms of burnt valves, but maybe someone else who knows here can chime in.
  • tracyptracyp Member Posts: 1
    I just bought my CRV 4WD EX AT yesterday. I was looking at it last night and it looks like the black cloth interior is faded in the back seat where the back of your knees would touch and under the front seat headrests. It looks like maybe it was faded from the sun but I don't think much sun would make it to that part of the back seat. Also, the fade is so even all the way across it couldn't have been from the sun. Has anyone else seen this? What should I do about it?
  • drive62drive62 Member Posts: 637
    Are you sure it is faded or is the nap (I think that is the term) crushed or similar to give it that look? Other than that I am stumped. Have not heard of interiors fading before the vehicle is bought.
  • mrd21mrd21 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2000 Honda CRV AWD with 66,000 miles. Bought it from Cental Chrysler in Norwood, MA for $10,000.00 out the door. It has stalled once during normal driving conditions and it has had problems hard starting. It also had dirty rear diff. oil which explained the vibration during hard turns. We are the 3rd Registered owners, it was firest bought in Nashuwa, NH. Brought it back to Cental Chrysler for the stalling and hard start problem. Service manager said he ran a diagnostic on it but nothing came up. The attempted to duplicate hard start but technicians said it started everytime??? The did change the rear differential oil and that took care of vibrations during hard turns. Is the TIGHT cylinder problem written anywhere? I would like to make Chrysler aware of this so they will fix it. I'm being mobilized soon and I don't want to worry about my wife being stranded with the kids somewhere. IED's are enough to worry about in the desert! Thanks, Ron :(
  • heidi4heidi4 Member Posts: 12
    It just sounds like your car is telling you something. Maybe you have a lemon? I love the CR-V, but if my car had all those problems in the span of a couple months I'd want to bring it back
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Ok so now the Honda Dealer is telling me I have burnt valves (more than one, apparently) and need to have the head replaced. Can anyone tell me what causes burnt valves and does that really mean that the head needs to be replaced? Does this sound reasonable? I'm not very car savvy, but that seems extreme to me. Is this all because of using non-Honda spark plugs?

    You have burnt valves because the car wa snot maintnaned properly. The valves on the B-series engines need to be adjusted every 30,000 miles, as they tighten with use. But, you are in luck, Honda made a mistake in the owner's manual by recommending valve adjustments at 90,000 miles instead of 30,000.

    So, now that you have a diagnosis from your Honda dealer, you need to get on the phone and call Honda corporate (the number is in your OWNER's MANUAL). Honda has covered fully or partially depending on the mileage.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

    P.S. Just for the fact that the mechanic did not know this, you should not go to him anymore. You want someone who knows their stuff to work on your car, not an incompetent "parts replacer"
  • cwood1cwood1 Member Posts: 4
    Ron, There is a Honda Technical Service Bulletin #03-033 dated Nov 5, 2004 dealing with the problem. I'm having a similar problem with the TIGHT cylinder issue on my 2001 CR-V and am actually having the head replaced right now. Fortunately I had purchased an extended service warranty which will cover most of the $3400 cost, so I am not planning to sue Honda, but some people have. Check message 3290 and 4225 on this forum to see if either description applies to your situation. Good Luck.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Was it really just a mistake in the owner's manual? I know from this forum that 30K is when they should be adjusted, but this is the first I've heard that it was simply a mistake in the owner's manual.

    I wonder when Honda realized this and just simply didn't notify the owners.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Was it really just a mistake in the owner's manual? I know from this forum that 30K is when they should be adjusted, but this is the first I've heard that it was simply a mistake in the owner's manual.

    I wonder when Honda realized this and just simply didn't notify the owners.


    Well, it is not a simple mistake. This is what happens when MBA's without engineering degrees are allowed to make decisions.

    Most likeley scenario is that Honda wanted to promote the CR-V as low maintnenance cost vehicle and they took a chance by publishing the 90,000 mile spec. But, Honda knows that they lied and are willing to fix it.
  • cwood1cwood1 Member Posts: 4
    The maintenance schedule in my 2001 CR-V Owners manual indicates that the valve clearances do not even need to be inspected until 105K miles and "adjust only if noisy" (see pg 202 and 204).

    My valves were not noisy and my mileage is only 67K, and yet I am now having to have the head replaced because the valves were burned, seated too far into the cylinder head, had little or no compression in 2 cylinders and misfiring in 3 cylinders.

    The Honda dealer is trying to tell me that this problem was caused by my using an independent service mechanic who put non-Honda spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap in it.
    They also told me that the valve clearance should have been adjusted at 30K and 60K. Apparently Honda knows this
    but no one else does because it is not in the book.

    I bought the car only 7 months ago from another car dealer(non-Honda). I had the 60K service done at the shop where I bought it, because I had an extended service warranty from them. It began acting up shortly after that tune up, so I brought it back several times, but when they couldn't find the problem, they sent me over to the Honda dealer.

    Fortunately, my service warranty is going to cover it, but it seems to me that Honda is not owning up to the problem. They are blaming the other mechanics for not doing it right, but ignoring the fact that the owners manual does not even say it needs doing.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Your Honda dealer sounds like a jerk. Have you tried calling Honda regional?
  • edgoreedgore Member Posts: 1
    I was shocked today that my 2 week old CRV LX Automatic with around 700 miles stopped working.

    I was on a gravel road pulling onto a paved road that was raised about 5 inches higher than the gravel road. As the front wheels reached the pavement as I slowly moved forward there was hesitation and the VSR kicked in an spun the back tires to push me up and onto the pavement. When I got on the pavement and started to accelerate, it started bucking when trying to switch into a higher gear (I'm not sure if it was 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th). I pulled over and saw the VSR light was on, the alert light (!) and the check engine light. I called the dealer who asked me to drive it to the service department, but I informed him that it wouldn't run without bucking and almost stalling. I told him I thought it would be safer to have it towed and he agreed.

    Does anyone know what might have caused this? Let's just say I am very, very upset that my brand new car is defective like this. I purchased a new car so I wouldn't have to worry about being left stranded and that's what this honda did.

    I will be in contact with the dealer tomorrow to see what they have uncovered regarding the defect but want to know if anyone else has heard of such occurances, and if anyone has any advice on how to handle this from a consumer perspective.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Fortunately, my service warranty is going to cover it, but it seems to me that Honda is not owning up to the problem. They are blaming the other mechanics for not doing it right, but ignoring the fact that the owners manual does not even say it needs doing.

    You are confusing the LOCAL DEALER with HONDA CORPORATE. It is not in local dealer's interest to have Honda Corporate to pay for it because Honda only pays them $40/hour in labor and only pays wholesale for the parts, while if they have you pay for it, they charge you $80/hour in labor and you pay retail (2x wholesale) for the parts.

    Honda Corporate has owned up to the problem with most people who have contacted them. But, since you have extended warranty the warranty will pick up the tab.

    As far as the dealer telling you that the spark plugs caused it, ask him if he is willing to testify in court.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Check the oil.
  • blusiameseblusiamese Member Posts: 3
    Can someone please tell me if the CRV is rough on tires? I have just over 24000 miles on my '04 CRV and my tires are already getting worn out. I have kept the air pressure checked, rotated 3 times, balanced 3 times and had at least two alignments done since purchasing my car new. I am at a complete loss as to why the tires are wearing like this. Please help! Thanks
  • blusiameseblusiamese Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem and am at a loss as to why, at 24400 miles, I am needing a new set of tires! I also rotated, balanced, aligned, etc., several times since purchasing my '04 CR-V new 23 months ago. I am supposed to take my car in this coming weekend for an oil change and I intend to get them to check this out also. Other than this, I have enjoyed this car very much!
  • tigerelvistigerelvis Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Honda CRV that needs the security code reset. I don't have a manual and I live 60 miles from the nearest dealer. On the radio it says CODE and have numbers that need to be entered if I only knew how. Can someone out there Help help help Me?

    Thanks....Ray
  • sky23213sky23213 Member Posts: 300
    Is it a LX or an EX? If it's an EX the audio is the same on mine, so I'll start typing. If it's a LX, please let us know, then someone with a LX Manual would be so kind to help you. Now let me run to the car.
    P.S. If you'd like, shoot me an e-mail (see profile) with a fax # and I'll be happy to fax it over.
  • sky23213sky23213 Member Posts: 300
    OK, it doesn't matter the model, its pretty much the same.
    "If your vehicle's battery is disconnected or the radio fuse is removed, the audio system will disable itself. If this happens, you will see CODE in the frequency display the next time you turn on the system. Use the preset buttons* to enter the the five digit code. .... When entered correctly, the radio will start playing.
    If u make a mistake entering the code, do not start over; complete the five digit sequence, then enter the correct code. You have ten tries to enter the correct code. If u are unsuccessful in 10 attempts, u must leave the system on for 1 hour before trying again."

    * LX - those are the three buttons, marked 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 in the middle of the face plate.
    EX/SE - the six buttons 1 through 6 at the bottom of the face.

    Good luck, and let us know if this helped.
  • wusterwuster Member Posts: 153
    It's the security code to your radio. It's the anti-theft deterrant Honda uses to keep people from stealing the radio.

    If you don't have the little card with the code on it (about the size of a playing card with 4 or 6 digits on it and should be in the pouch with the owners manual), you'll have to call either Honda or a dealer service department to see if they can look it up for you. You'll need your vin# handy.
  • jellyfishjellyfish Member Posts: 3
    I drained & refilled my differential unit last night, and the problem went away.

    Thanks everybody!

    jellyfish
  • jacktongjacktong Member Posts: 1
    My Honda CRV 2002 engine had the intermittent high pitch noise when at high humidity (such as before a storm or rain) regardless of the season (winter or summer) since 2003. The problem is so dependent on if it is going to have high humidity so that I had to leave my car at the dealer for a whole week and they heard the same noise when a heavy rain came in the summer. However, they could not find any engine problem and they replaced a new belt. After a few months, that problem kicked in again and the dealer could not help at all. Usually if it rained hard last night, the noise came out in the morning when I started the car (the car is in the garage). The noise usually disappear after 1 or 2 drives (10 minutes of each). The occurrence of the noise is so predictable if it is high humidity. I also have a Honda Civic 2002 and it does not this problem. Thanks for your input or share your experiences!
  • mrhondamrhonda Member Posts: 10
    Hello out there.
    I'm hoping that somebody can help me here.
    My 2002 CR-V is in need of new rubber. I would like step up the quality of the original rubber. Mainly I'm looking for quiteness and smooth riding. The other thing is, I want to install slightly larger tires than the original 205/70-15. I want to keep the same rims, but gain height.
    Has anybody gone taller? I'm thinking either 215 or 225/70.
    Of course the tire peddlers don't want to really advise me here as they feel like I'm creating a huge problem for myself.
    They say I should stick with my original size and that I might have to sign waivers if I insist on changing the size.
    Does anybody know if the two sizes I'm considering will fit with plenty of clearance? I know speedometer will be off, but I really don't speed (much) anyway.
    Your input is greatly desired. Thanks
  • phil_qcphil_qc Member Posts: 11
    Yokohama Avid TRZ 215-70-R15...
    Go read the review on TireRack.com
    I got these ones for 2 weeks and love them...

    Phil.
  • mrhondamrhonda Member Posts: 10
    Hey thanks for responding.
    So the 215's fit with no clearance problemos? Did you notice any change with your speedometer? What did you gain in overall height, about an inch? Do you think the 225's would have fit? I read the reviews on TR.com. Some were favorable and some not. Main complaint was premature wear. My stock cheap BS Duellers that came with the car actually have gone over 60K with even wear. Would you consider the Yoko's a step in up in quality?
    Are they quite, for that is what I'm really hoping for.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,527
    The difference in diameter will be around 3/8".. hardly noticeable...

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  • chuck914chuck914 Member Posts: 15
    I think the little gain is not worth it. There is a reason why a dealer may want you to sign a waiver; safety being the main reason. Not only will your speedometer be "off", but you could create problems with your ABS and other sensors that relay vehicle speed. Personally, I wouldn't mess around with Honda engineering... from tire pressures to tire size, those engineers have a reason for specifications.
  • 1901190119011901 Member Posts: 1
    I can't open the front passenager door from the inside. I can open it from the out side. I would like a diagram of how to take apart the inside of the door.Without destroying the different parts. I have a 1998 honda CRV.
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    I don't have a diagram, but I've done the job.

    Take a phillips head screw driver, remove the screws, and pull the plastic panel off. It's really that easy. You just have to be sure to get all the screws. There's a few hidden under the armrest (buried deep in holes) and another hidden under the latch. The rest are easy enough to find.

    If I recall correctly, there are a few "plastic rivets" which must be removed as well. Sometimes these are referred to as acorn nuts. So removing the real screws will not result in a completely loose panel. You kinda have to take a leap of faith and tug the thing off.
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