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Comments
In hot weather, it locks up just fine. We did replace with a slightly hotter thermostat, and it seemed to help for a bit, but hasn't eliminated the problem.
Does anyone have information on what temp thermostat I need to install?
Zee
Sorry.. it is the only problem I have..
Anyway, the lever that releases the table to fold down just spins... I can reach under the table and push the hinge back manually, so that it will fold down (no idea I could do this before), but I can't figure out what is missing from the lever.
I laid down in the floor (harder than it sounds) to look under the table, but I can't tell what is wrong.. Is there a piece broken off of the lever? Anyone else have this problem, and if so, is it an easy fix?
I thought I'd be able to tell just by looking, but it is hard to see under there and I can't figure it out..
Thanks,
kyfdx
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However... something is definitely wrong with it. The stalling is getting worse and worse and more annoying every day that goes by! I'm taking it in to the mechanic AGAIN, but I'd like to give him something to look for this time, in hopes that it will actually get fixed. Has anyone else had this problem? Can you PLEASE help? I don't know much about cars, so any info would be helpful.
THe only time that it doesn't stall out at every stop sign is if it's been running for 10 minutes before I put it in gear and take off... or if I've been driving for about 20 minutes or so.
However... something is definitely wrong with it. The stalling is getting worse and worse and more annoying every day that goes by! I'm taking it in to the mechanic AGAIN, but I'd like to give him something to look for this time, in hopes that it will actually get fixed. Has anyone else had this problem? Can you PLEASE help? I don't know much about cars, so any info would be helpful.
THe only time that it doesn't stall out at every stop sign is if it's been running for 10 minutes before I put it in gear and take off... or if I've been driving for about 20 minutes or so.
When were the valves adjusted last time?
I had the problem once and all it required was to have the throttle body cleaned.
I have brought mine back to the dealer and they cannot find anything wrong. Alignment, tires, suspension all appear to be OK.
This problem has gotten progressively worse as time goes by. At times it has caused the entire front end to shake through to the steering column.
I would appreciate any help or resolutions you may come across.
Thanks
Thank You
That brings up quite a few posts about it...
regards,
kyfdx
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Takes about 45 mins or so (slightly longer in my case, cause I ended up with an extra screw. So I had to disassemble everything again to figure out where the extra screw came from. )
I suspect the location of the filter housing for gen 2 is in the same place as gen 1.
My A/C compressor just exploded on Friday at the magical 50,000 mile mark as well.
Seems as though the compressor, clutch, coil and dryer are all bad and need to be replaced and EVAC system needs to be recharged to the tune of $1300.00.
When I told the dealership I would not have it repaired immediately, they quickly decided to call the Honda rep on my behalf tomorrow.
We'll see what happens and I will report my findings. I am now armed with the knowledge I have gained here. Thanks for the posts.
Other than this slight inconvenience in 98 degree Oklahoma dry/humid weather the car has performed almost as well as my 92 Accord.
Until then....
It is your job to call Honda corporate, not the dealer's. It is in their interest not to have Honda get involved (they get paid less), it is in your interest to get Honda involved (you pay less).
The Honda rep will be at the dealership tomorrow...Guess where I will be?
Shauna
Shauna
Seems like 76% coverage is pretty good for a car 16,000 miles out of warranty. I don't know of any other manufacturer that even offers to pay partial repair bills after the warranty expired.
The Honda rep will be at the dealership tomorrow...Guess where I will be?
That is pretty good. Usually dealerships say they will call, and never call and then tell you that Honda corporate rejected claim. They only get paid like $30/hour in labor and Invoice on parts if Honda is involved, and usually charge $80/hour for labor and MSRP for parts (2x of invoice)
Thank You
Could the lifters be "draining down" because the oil (5w-20) thins down too much when warm, but OK when cold?
Do not get a higher amp fuse. Get a new charger.
Could the lifters be "draining down" because the oil (5w-20) thins down too much when warm, but OK when cold?
Check the oil level. When was the oil changed last time?
The first time, I filled up the coolant tank, but it still has the same problem. Please give me some help if you know the solution.
Thanks.
David
Any input?
I have my doubts about 5w-20w oil being too thin in warm weather
thank you for your response
Could you plesase Help
The first time, I filled up the coolant tank, but it still has the same problem. Please give me some help if you know the solution.
Thanks.
David
As far as I know, CR-V DOES NOT have low coolant level light. Are you sure you are not talking about "brake failure" light? It would also explain why the light comes on when you hit the brakes. If it is the brake light, then you are probably low on brake fluid. If the fluid has never been changed, it shoudl be changed ASAP! Its useful life is only 3 years.
You should have waited until at least 3000 miles, preferrably 5000 miles to take the ORIGINAL BRAKE IN oil out of the CR-V. Honda says to do so in the OWNER's MANUAL, and they do it for a reason. The original oil is high in molybdenium, which aids in break in.
I have my doubts about 5w-20w oil being too thin in warm weather
I run 0W-20 and don't have too many problems. Honda engines always have little tapping noise from the engine, that is their nature.
Honda CR-V does not have automatic headlight shut off standard. Either you are not in the US, or you have an aftermarket one. In latter case, consult with the manufacturer of the unit.
Could you plesase Help
Man, Honda model of 200, we are talking about 1806 year old car. No wonder it is not running right.
Anyway, if you have a 2002 or newer, check the oil level. Low oil level will send the car into "limp" mode. Which may set the fuel cut off at 5000 RPM. Even lower oil level will send the car into "aggressive limp" mode where the engine would not rev past 2500 RPM.
This could also be a sign of VTEC solenoid failure. Improper oil weight, or low oil level will cause both symptoms. Use the recommended 5W-20 and you should be fine. 10W-40 is going to kill your VTEC.
If it is 2001 or older, there is no VTEC, and you are probably low on oil, or the fuel filter is clogged, or the valves are too tight...
SD3
I'm thinking it's possible the plug on the adapter is of a design that shorts out the two conductors in the socket unless it is perfectly aligned going in.
If you have not tried this... plug in the adapter THEN try to start the car. If it doesn't blow, then the theory is the male plug isn't designed very well. As I said, I think you need to try a different (brand) adapter. However, if you can manage several starts without a problem with the adapter inserted first, just leave the adapter in the socket. You don't smoke do you?