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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jerrymoljerrymol Member Posts: 3
    Hi, was wondering if you still have the noise issue or if you found the solution. I have an 04 CRV with noise coming from same area. No satisfaction from Honda. Thanks. Jerry
  • jerrymoljerrymol Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the feedback. I'll let you know if someone finds a solution. Jerry
  • ghost666ghost666 Member Posts: 2
    Wow.... 2001 CR-V and you are shifting at 1500 RPM? I'm surprised you haven't been run over..
    ...................................
    You made me laugh! Maybe now I'll stop getting the finger from old ladies, as they leave me in the dust. :P

    Thanks so much guys, all these years, doing it wrong, thinking I was doing a good thing for the car.

    Thanks so much!!
  • phisherphisher Member Posts: 175
    How did that say they were going to do that if the roof interior is rusting. on my 06 the sunroof interior seems to be part of the frame.
  • rosipalrosipal Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I have almost 32000 miles on my CR-V 04 EX. Recently I have noticed
    a single click noise while braking. It sounds about 0.5-1sec after pressing
    the braking paddle. It seems that less louder click is there when
    in the follow up step accelerating. The noise sounds to me similar to
    the electric relay and it can be heard on the drivers side only.
    I guess it is not nothing serious but a bit annoying, so please
    help!

    Thanks !

    Roman
  • minivan561minivan561 Member Posts: 23
    Would this problem be detectable when Honda hooks up their diagnostic scan tool? Thanks.
  • frankiejr101frankiejr101 Member Posts: 7
    Hi Jerry,
    I have the same problem as you do, just started about a week ago. My 04 CRV (owned since new) just started getting a clunking noise under the passenger seat (or between the two front seats, can't really tell), but ONLY when we go over a moderate ALL CAR bump. Doesn't happen when just one wheel hits a bump. Haven't tried turns yet but will test that. It almost sounds like some part is just loose underneath and needs to be tightened to the frame but I doubt it's that simple. I have about 25,000 miles on it and drive it as carefully and "nicely" as possible so I have no idea what could have caused this.

    I do feel though that if you at least have this documented by the dealer BEFORE 3yr/36,000 and they can't fix it at the time, they still might fix it for free after the warranty is up. I agree, this shouldn't happen but if this is the worst thing that happens to my car for the next 100,000 miles, I'll feel lucky. Still shouldn't be happening! Let me know if you find out anything else. I'm going to the dealer today for an oil change so I'll ask them about the noise and see if they have any new answers.

    Frank
  • bmurrbmurr Member Posts: 1
    I also just purchased an 06 CRV EX on June 3. I get the same vibration at about 70 mph on the interstate. It seams to get progressively worse as your speed increases. It seems like it could be the tires, but not sure. Should I take it to a dealer to check it out, or just carry it to a Bridgestone dealer? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I also just purchased an 06 CRV EX on June 3. I get the same vibration at about 70 mph on the interstate. It seams to get progressively worse as your speed increases. It seems like it could be the tires, but not sure. Should I take it to a dealer to check it out, or just carry it to a Bridgestone dealer? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

    Check tire pressure.
  • renauserenause Member Posts: 3
    '98 CR-V 4WD Automatic 76,000 miles - and now a transmission problem (June 06). Bought it Certified-Used off-lease w/ 30,000 miles. Doubtful that I'm under any kind of warranty.

    Looks like something broke loose in the differential that then caused two 1/2" pieces of metal to chip off the transfer case's collar (inside the differential of course). Imagine what happens when a metal piece gets in between the gears - shutter/grind. Car is now at the shop undriveable. Shop is looking for used differential.

    Not sure to repair or scrap.

    Argh!

    is this a pattern??? Any one have luck w/ Honda?
  • renauserenause Member Posts: 3
    '98 CR-V 4WD Automatic 76,000 miles - and now a transmission problem. Bought it Certified-Used off-lease w/ 30,000 miles. I'm digging up my paperwork to see if I'm under any kind of warranty.

    Looks like something broke loose in the differential that then caused two 1/2" pieces of metal to chip off the transfer case's collar (inside the differential of course). Imagine what happens when a metal piece gets in between the gears - shutter/grind. Car is now at the shop (not Honda) & undriveable. Shop is looking for used differential.

    Should I have it put back together and towed to Honda??? Any one have luck w/ Honda?

    Not sure to repair or scrap.

    Argh!
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    Sorry. That one is not a common problem.

    I have no idea what could have caused that, but it sounds (to my non-mechanic ears) like you could have experienced a bad case of binding in the drivetrain. Typically, that would result in problems with the rear differential before the tranny, but ya never know.

    Whether to scrap or repair would depend on the cost to get it fixed.
  • esteezeesteeze Member Posts: 102
    I've got 42k miles on my CRV, and it looks like the tire tread is down to 4/32 in on the stock Bridgestone Dueler HT's. From what I've read on some of the posts in this forum, I guess I'm lucky they've lasted this long.

    I'm looking to replace the Bridgestone Duelers with BF Goodrich Radial Long Trail T/A (Costco has a good deal going on these right now). We'll see how they go.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I have and 04 and had a similar rattle that was more on the front wheel (car has about 32K). Turns out it was just a loose strut. Fixed under warranty
  • ironweedironweed Member Posts: 13
    Now that the weather is getting warmer, I've noticed a problem with my fresh air inflow through the vent system.

    My 2006, bought in November, is my first CRV. I notice, when the outside air temp is in the low 70's, and I turn the heater knob all the way off and turn on the fan, the inside air temp climbs to high 70's or low 80's. I can feel that the air coming out the vents is slightly heated.

    I called Honda and spoke with service rep., who said there is no adjustment that can be made, and I would have to live with the airflow picking up engine heat.

    Has anyone else noticed this? I have never owned an auto where I had to turn on the air-conditioner when the outside temps where so low.....
  • rockhound1rockhound1 Member Posts: 1
    While driving on city street I experienced a sudden jolt to my 2001 CRV. The yellow check engine light lit up and I immediately noticed a loss of power. The transmission 'D' (Drive) starting flashing green on the dash. I stopped and put transmission in park. Red park light showed normal but light on 'D' stayed green. Turned vehicle off and restarted CRV. The power returned and transmission seemed normal. Yellow check engine stayed on. What has happened? - Please help!
  • drive62drive62 Member Posts: 637
    The transmission 'D' (Drive) starting flashing green on the dash.

    Yellow check engine stayed on.

    A code (or codes) was stored which will tell the problem.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Now that the weather is getting warmer, I've noticed a problem with my fresh air inflow through the vent system.

    My 2006, bought in November, is my first CRV. I notice, when the outside air temp is in the low 70's, and I turn the heater knob all the way off and turn on the fan, the inside air temp climbs to high 70's or low 80's. I can feel that the air coming out the vents is slightly heated.

    I called Honda and spoke with service rep., who said there is no adjustment that can be made, and I would have to live with the airflow picking up engine heat.

    Has anyone else noticed this? I have never owned an auto where I had to turn on the air-conditioner when the outside temps where so low.....


    Drive faster so that the air flow thorugh the engine bay is higher and does not heat up the air as quickly. The air intake is at the base of the windshield, which is at the back of the engine bay, and the hot air from the engine bay tranfers to the intake.

    You can try installing a snorkel from Hummer, which relocates the engine air intake to above the roof level, but I am sure one can adapt the snorkel to work with the CR-V cabin air intake.

    Another option, is to tilt the sunroof, if equipped. It will allow the warmer air, which rises, escape, and will increase the airflow through the cabin wihtout the MPG hit that lowered windows give (mpg loss is about the same as A/C on)
  • stephyspstephysp Member Posts: 1
    This is a major problem with Honda and should be recalled...My AC blew up on a road trip from San Antonio. Honda says it will costs about 1800.00...When you get at 50000 look out...
  • emarsh69emarsh69 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 CR-V. For the past few months, the engine idles rough for about 5-7 minutes after it's started. It's a lot worse when in gear. Sometimes it will stall. Doesn't seem to matter how cold it is, but it only does it after it's sat for many hours. Once it warms up, it runs just fine. What could this be? Thanks......
  • emarsh69emarsh69 Member Posts: 2
    My parking brake light won't go out when the car is cold. I usually have to drive it for 10-15 minutes before it goes out. When it is hot out (above 70 degrees), the light works as normal. By the way, it doesn't matter if the brake was set or not. The funny thing is my Acura started doing the same thing. I hope this isn't a computer problem......
  • triathlonjtriathlonj Member Posts: 25
    So, I am yet another victim of the rear differential problem on the 2003 CR-V. The owners manual said to change the fluid every 60,000 miles under severe conditions. After 37,000 miles, the car made strange sounds in slow turns. We took it in, and they ended up having to replace the entire rear differential because of metal shavings. They said I should have been changing the diff. fluid every 15,000 miles, and that I was towing something way to heavy for my CR-V. Unfortunately, my towing currently comprises a bicycle rack and 2 bikes...

    Question: Is the service writer full of crap?

    What would towing have to do with my differential any ways, unless I was doing figure-eights with the trailer and a pallat of concrete behind me?

    We want to get a light utility trailer (like 500 lbs) when we move in our first house in a few months, but if towing will in fact destroy the rear differential, we won't. I attribute the rear diff. failure to Honda's overly optimistic maintenance schedule for the fluid. I plan on changing it every 20K or so from here on out - has anyone else experienced differential woes after towing loads under the specified 1500 lbs?

    Thanks!
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    The diff problem is real. I recommend changing the fluid every 30-40K miles unless you drive in slippery condition on an almost daily basis.

    No idea why they would think that towing caused the problem. The CR-V is FWD and towing would have put pressure on the front diff, not the rear. That is... unless you were towing too much weight while driving on a very slippery surface on a daily basis.

    Sounds like the dealer doesn't want you to go to Honda corporate and have it fixed under warranty (they get less money for warranty work). Have the shop call the local zone office and open up a case for you. Be nice about it, but insist that they do.
  • frank1028frank1028 Member Posts: 3
    Just attended a New Honda Owner Clinic at the dealership. It was brought up that if owners went back to Honda for regular maint. like 5000 miles oil changes and others, they would make sure the car is in shape and if the something breaks, they'll take care of it even it is our of warrenty if the problem is a defect. might want to keep thatin mind.

    Frank
  • sky23213sky23213 Member Posts: 300
    I mentioned mine making noises at around 17K. Brought it to the dealer today, they seemed quite familiar with the issue. Took a spin around the parking lot with the tech to confirm it and replaced the dual pump fluid at no charge as a warranty repair. Service advisor also mentioned that there was another CR-V a few days ago with the same problem and 21K.
  • kcmomkcmom Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 CRV SE. It's been great - no mechanical problems whatsoever. However, the inside dashboard in front of the passenger side (glove compartment area and above) is getting scratched horribly. The interior is black and these scratches show up as white, where, I guess, it's scraping off the color.

    I've looked and can't find a good way to cover this up. I have something that will work on the OUTSIDE scratches to the paint, but it says not to use it on vinyl or rubber. Does anyone else have this problem? I hate for the inside to be getting so scratched up. I even thought about trying to use black shoe polish. It's not from any excessive wear and tear - just people getting into the car with, for example, a backpack or purse that rubs against that area.

    I had an Odyssey that had the OPPOSITE problem - we kept getting BLACK marks on the gray interior. : (
    Thanks in advance.
    kcmom
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Maybe I should have mine changed. 2003 EX with 23,000 miles. Not a hint of any kind of a problem up to this point.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,200
    Ummm.... '02 EX with 65K, no problems...

    Put 59K on the '98 before it met it's untimely demise... no problems there, either...

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  • mwandmwmwandmw Member Posts: 1
    Took my 04' CR-V to the dealer a couple days ago, because it almost stalled on me while sitting in traffic, and it felt like i was having a very subtle fluctuation in power when driving (although the tach reading never dipped, it just felt a little off).

    Well of course when I took it to the dealer they couldn't recreate what i was experiencing. Fast forward to this morning -- I'm backing into a parking space in my parking garage and it just cuts off on me. I was able to re-start it, but I'm getting worried that it may be the start of a bigger problem.

    Anyone got any ideas?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My parking brake light won't go out when the car is cold. I usually have to drive it for 10-15 minutes before it goes out. When it is hot out (above 70 degrees), the light works as normal. By the way, it doesn't matter if the brake was set or not. The funny thing is my Acura started doing the same thing. I hope this isn't a computer problem......

    If you read the OWNER's MANUAL you would find that "parking brake" light is an indicator for the whole braking system.

    Chances are you have a problem with the brakes, most likeley low fluidOr fluid has absorbed enough water to be more susseptible to expantion and contraction with temperature.

    I find the OWNER's MANUAL very handy.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    They said I should have been changing the diff. fluid every 15,000 miles, and that I was towing something way to heavy for my CR-V.

    True for the first part, pure BS for the second.

    The dealer should know that diff fluid should be changed more often than the manual suggests. And the first line of defense against noisy rear differential is fluid change, not differential replacment. Time to find a competent dealer.

    Call Honda corporate and complain, complain and complain, they are pretty good at fixing cars out of warranty. Especially since the manual says to change the fluid at 60,000 miles, and they know it needs to be changed at least twice as often.
  • jimbobjoeginjimbobjoegin Member Posts: 18
    hey guys I drive a 2004 honda CR-V EX and I've got about 20k miles on it and I have been noticeing some weird things. Like for insctance when I get into the passenger seat my back suspension squeaks

    and sometimes when I go over bumps my back suspension will making a clunking noise. Now I have taken it ot the dealers and they say there is no problem

    do you maybe its because my back tires are a liitle deflated or is it something else entirely?
  • esteezeesteeze Member Posts: 102
    Yeah, I had a similar problem at 35k in my 03 CRV. It made a noise when turning at parking lot speeds.

    They just replaced the rear diff fluid in mine (no mention of metal shavings from the service dept) at a cost of about $65. I kind of complained to the dealer about the manual showing an interval of 60k, but it wasn't much $ so I didn't press the issue (nothing seemed to have been damaged).

    I don't tow anything, but I have occasionally carried some moderate-weight cargo in the back (several hundred pounds); this probably doesn't matter much on the rear diff as compared to towing. I probably rarely encounter situations where the AWD is engaged; not sure if this makes it worse or better.
  • pshooperpshooper Member Posts: 25
    My 2004 CRV started to vibrate when braking a month ago. I took it to the shop I take my other car to for a free brake check. They said I only had 50% wear on my front brake pads, but that my rotors had warped so badly that they needed replacement. I am taking my CRV to the Honda dealer next week to request that this be covered under warranty. I drive very conservatively and have never had more than groceries and one other person in the car at the same time. I have never had a car wear out its rotors before its first set of brake pads in my life, and I think this should be covered under the warranty. Can anyone give me feedback on how deal with this issue at the dealer? (I live in the Ann Arbor area.) Thanks.
  • esteezeesteeze Member Posts: 102
    I'm not sure what would have caused the rotors to be warped where the pads are not worn down; I would think pads worn down to the metal would normally cause a rotor problem. Maybe some road debris got in there. Maybe the rotors themselves are defective or were improperly mounted.

    If you're still under the bumper to bumper warranty (the 3yr/36k miles one), I think they would probably cover it. If you've had brake pad work done somewhere at some other shop, it's probably a little more complicated, though. Most brake pad shops usually provide some kind of warranty coverage for the brakes.
  • harold12harold12 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 CR-V with manual transmission. About 1 out of every 15 times I start the car, it doesn't crank. AFter 2-3 cycles of the key to the start position, it will crank and starts just fine. The dealer couldn't duplicate the problem the first time, and the second time I started it after leaving the dealer, it failed. So I had it towed in. A day later, they don't seem to have a diagnosis. If anyone else has experienced this, and has suggestions for likely cause, I would appreciate it. And yes, I had the clutch pedal fully depressed and no the floor mat is not in the way (the first questions they asked...like this wasn't my fourth manual transmission Honda...)
  • sceglascegla Member Posts: 20
    Is there more than one key on your key ring? The inductance chip in the second key could be causing interference and the vehicle doesn't recognize your key. You would not have left the second key with the dealer, hence there was no interference when they tested it.

    Just a possibility...
  • calvinycalviny Member Posts: 13
    I have washed my 2003CRV and waxed it as well.

    Unfortunatley, some of the wax covered over the black moulding and left it some stain/spot on it...

    Any suggestion to remove it, thanks.
  • esteezeesteeze Member Posts: 102
    You might try using just dishwashing soap and warm water...

    Sounds trivial, I know, but dishwashing soap is designed to bind with greasey/oily substances (wax is such a substance). Just be careful to minimize getting it on the finish of the rest of the car... you obviously don't want to strip off the wax you just put on there.
  • harold12harold12 Member Posts: 2
    I hope this has long ago been resolved, but it would be worth checking whether you have a defective tire. Tires can cause a strong pull (or push) to the side if there is a defect in the way the belt is placed inside the tire. I test drove a couple of CR-Vs before buying, and one had a strong pull to one side. The salesman had noted it, too, and agreed it just needed a replacement tire. My brand new 2006 has at least one tire that is out of round and cannot be balanced. I'm going to insist that they replace it. Looks like quality control on the tires is poor. If they rotate your tires to the rear and the problem goes away (or reverses), then insist on new tires. There would have to be severe problems with the suspension to produce that much pull. I'm betting on tires.
  • jmolinskyjmolinsky Member Posts: 18
    Folks,

    Everywhere I've researched has said this connector is on the right hand side of the vehicle cabin (either behind the glove box, behind the passenger kick-panel, or behind the right side of the center console). I searched in all of those areas and could not find this connector so that I could read a trouble code.

    Can someone please give me a better description of where I can find this connector? Yes, I know I can go to an Autozone, etc., etc., but that is not at all convenient and I'd much rather do it myself. FYI, I have the factory service manual but it also does not show it's location as far as I can tell (only mention I found is in a schematic for the ECM).

    Thanks so much for the help!!!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My 2004 CRV started to vibrate when braking a month ago. I took it to the shop I take my other car to for a free brake check. They said I only had 50% wear on my front brake pads, but that my rotors had warped so badly that they needed replacement. I am taking my CRV to the Honda dealer next week to request that this be covered under warranty. I drive very conservatively and have never had more than groceries and one other person in the car at the same time. I have never had a car wear out its rotors before its first set of brake pads in my life, and I think this should be covered under the warranty. Can anyone give me feedback on how deal with this issue at the dealer? (I live in the Ann Arbor area.) Thanks.

    Good luck getting that covered under warranty. Brakes are only waranted for 12,000 miles/12 months, it is all in the OWNER's MANUAL. All wear and tear items are covered for the initial 12 months only, including the refrigerant in the A/C system.

    Who rotated your tires last time? Did they use imact driver to put the lugs back on? or did they torque it to the Honda specified 80 ft. lbs? The lug nuts should be put back on using a torque wrench in criss cross pattern.

    Uneven torquening of the lug nuts is the most prevalent cause of Brake rotor warpage on a Honda.
  • tcasboytcasboy Member Posts: 214
    A small amount of WD-40 on a rag will take that wax residue off the black trim. Just be very careful to not get it on the paint.

    TB
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Creamy peanut butter is supposed to work too.

    Steve, Host
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    Peanut butter and toothpaste are supposed to be very mild abrassives. They do work well for getting at things like the sticky goo left behind by a parking sticker or bumper sticker.

    Trick is getting the peanut butter off after you've removed the goo. ;)
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Trick is getting the peanut butter off after you've removed the goo.

    Perhaps a little jelly and toast? ;)

    tidester, host
  • blueboyjocksblueboyjocks Member Posts: 36
    Sounds like a good breakfast guys! :shades:
  • minivan561minivan561 Member Posts: 23
    Hi. Does anyone include the spare tire in the rotation? Wouldn't this make more sense since AWD system can be more sensitive different tire sizes?
  • esteezeesteeze Member Posts: 102
    I haven't been doing this, but I'm thinking about it going forward with the new tires I'm fixing to put on my 03 CRV.

    Academically, it seems more economical to spread the tread wear over 5 tires vs 4. Also, I see your point with how the AWD system may be taxed less if the spare is used, and said spare has tread on it similar to that of the other tires (vs. having new tread, while the other 3 have worn tread). I'm not sure how much difference it may make though... surely the designers at Honda accounted for this situation.
  • drive62drive62 Member Posts: 637
    Assuming you don't go 20000 miles between rotations, using the spare in rotation will be fine. Plenty do it. People over exaggerate the tread wear difference in relation to the AWD.
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