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Comments
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You made me laugh! Maybe now I'll stop getting the finger from old ladies, as they leave me in the dust. :P
Thanks so much guys, all these years, doing it wrong, thinking I was doing a good thing for the car.
Thanks so much!!
I have almost 32000 miles on my CR-V 04 EX. Recently I have noticed
a single click noise while braking. It sounds about 0.5-1sec after pressing
the braking paddle. It seems that less louder click is there when
in the follow up step accelerating. The noise sounds to me similar to
the electric relay and it can be heard on the drivers side only.
I guess it is not nothing serious but a bit annoying, so please
help!
Thanks !
Roman
I have the same problem as you do, just started about a week ago. My 04 CRV (owned since new) just started getting a clunking noise under the passenger seat (or between the two front seats, can't really tell), but ONLY when we go over a moderate ALL CAR bump. Doesn't happen when just one wheel hits a bump. Haven't tried turns yet but will test that. It almost sounds like some part is just loose underneath and needs to be tightened to the frame but I doubt it's that simple. I have about 25,000 miles on it and drive it as carefully and "nicely" as possible so I have no idea what could have caused this.
I do feel though that if you at least have this documented by the dealer BEFORE 3yr/36,000 and they can't fix it at the time, they still might fix it for free after the warranty is up. I agree, this shouldn't happen but if this is the worst thing that happens to my car for the next 100,000 miles, I'll feel lucky. Still shouldn't be happening! Let me know if you find out anything else. I'm going to the dealer today for an oil change so I'll ask them about the noise and see if they have any new answers.
Frank
Check tire pressure.
Looks like something broke loose in the differential that then caused two 1/2" pieces of metal to chip off the transfer case's collar (inside the differential of course). Imagine what happens when a metal piece gets in between the gears - shutter/grind. Car is now at the shop undriveable. Shop is looking for used differential.
Not sure to repair or scrap.
Argh!
is this a pattern??? Any one have luck w/ Honda?
Looks like something broke loose in the differential that then caused two 1/2" pieces of metal to chip off the transfer case's collar (inside the differential of course). Imagine what happens when a metal piece gets in between the gears - shutter/grind. Car is now at the shop (not Honda) & undriveable. Shop is looking for used differential.
Should I have it put back together and towed to Honda??? Any one have luck w/ Honda?
Not sure to repair or scrap.
Argh!
I have no idea what could have caused that, but it sounds (to my non-mechanic ears) like you could have experienced a bad case of binding in the drivetrain. Typically, that would result in problems with the rear differential before the tranny, but ya never know.
Whether to scrap or repair would depend on the cost to get it fixed.
I'm looking to replace the Bridgestone Duelers with BF Goodrich Radial Long Trail T/A (Costco has a good deal going on these right now). We'll see how they go.
My 2006, bought in November, is my first CRV. I notice, when the outside air temp is in the low 70's, and I turn the heater knob all the way off and turn on the fan, the inside air temp climbs to high 70's or low 80's. I can feel that the air coming out the vents is slightly heated.
I called Honda and spoke with service rep., who said there is no adjustment that can be made, and I would have to live with the airflow picking up engine heat.
Has anyone else noticed this? I have never owned an auto where I had to turn on the air-conditioner when the outside temps where so low.....
Yellow check engine stayed on.
A code (or codes) was stored which will tell the problem.
My 2006, bought in November, is my first CRV. I notice, when the outside air temp is in the low 70's, and I turn the heater knob all the way off and turn on the fan, the inside air temp climbs to high 70's or low 80's. I can feel that the air coming out the vents is slightly heated.
I called Honda and spoke with service rep., who said there is no adjustment that can be made, and I would have to live with the airflow picking up engine heat.
Has anyone else noticed this? I have never owned an auto where I had to turn on the air-conditioner when the outside temps where so low.....
Drive faster so that the air flow thorugh the engine bay is higher and does not heat up the air as quickly. The air intake is at the base of the windshield, which is at the back of the engine bay, and the hot air from the engine bay tranfers to the intake.
You can try installing a snorkel from Hummer, which relocates the engine air intake to above the roof level, but I am sure one can adapt the snorkel to work with the CR-V cabin air intake.
Another option, is to tilt the sunroof, if equipped. It will allow the warmer air, which rises, escape, and will increase the airflow through the cabin wihtout the MPG hit that lowered windows give (mpg loss is about the same as A/C on)
Question: Is the service writer full of crap?
What would towing have to do with my differential any ways, unless I was doing figure-eights with the trailer and a pallat of concrete behind me?
We want to get a light utility trailer (like 500 lbs) when we move in our first house in a few months, but if towing will in fact destroy the rear differential, we won't. I attribute the rear diff. failure to Honda's overly optimistic maintenance schedule for the fluid. I plan on changing it every 20K or so from here on out - has anyone else experienced differential woes after towing loads under the specified 1500 lbs?
Thanks!
No idea why they would think that towing caused the problem. The CR-V is FWD and towing would have put pressure on the front diff, not the rear. That is... unless you were towing too much weight while driving on a very slippery surface on a daily basis.
Sounds like the dealer doesn't want you to go to Honda corporate and have it fixed under warranty (they get less money for warranty work). Have the shop call the local zone office and open up a case for you. Be nice about it, but insist that they do.
Frank
I've looked and can't find a good way to cover this up. I have something that will work on the OUTSIDE scratches to the paint, but it says not to use it on vinyl or rubber. Does anyone else have this problem? I hate for the inside to be getting so scratched up. I even thought about trying to use black shoe polish. It's not from any excessive wear and tear - just people getting into the car with, for example, a backpack or purse that rubs against that area.
I had an Odyssey that had the OPPOSITE problem - we kept getting BLACK marks on the gray interior. : (
Thanks in advance.
kcmom
Put 59K on the '98 before it met it's untimely demise... no problems there, either...
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Well of course when I took it to the dealer they couldn't recreate what i was experiencing. Fast forward to this morning -- I'm backing into a parking space in my parking garage and it just cuts off on me. I was able to re-start it, but I'm getting worried that it may be the start of a bigger problem.
Anyone got any ideas?
If you read the OWNER's MANUAL you would find that "parking brake" light is an indicator for the whole braking system.
Chances are you have a problem with the brakes, most likeley low fluidOr fluid has absorbed enough water to be more susseptible to expantion and contraction with temperature.
I find the OWNER's MANUAL very handy.
True for the first part, pure BS for the second.
The dealer should know that diff fluid should be changed more often than the manual suggests. And the first line of defense against noisy rear differential is fluid change, not differential replacment. Time to find a competent dealer.
Call Honda corporate and complain, complain and complain, they are pretty good at fixing cars out of warranty. Especially since the manual says to change the fluid at 60,000 miles, and they know it needs to be changed at least twice as often.
and sometimes when I go over bumps my back suspension will making a clunking noise. Now I have taken it ot the dealers and they say there is no problem
do you maybe its because my back tires are a liitle deflated or is it something else entirely?
They just replaced the rear diff fluid in mine (no mention of metal shavings from the service dept) at a cost of about $65. I kind of complained to the dealer about the manual showing an interval of 60k, but it wasn't much $ so I didn't press the issue (nothing seemed to have been damaged).
I don't tow anything, but I have occasionally carried some moderate-weight cargo in the back (several hundred pounds); this probably doesn't matter much on the rear diff as compared to towing. I probably rarely encounter situations where the AWD is engaged; not sure if this makes it worse or better.
If you're still under the bumper to bumper warranty (the 3yr/36k miles one), I think they would probably cover it. If you've had brake pad work done somewhere at some other shop, it's probably a little more complicated, though. Most brake pad shops usually provide some kind of warranty coverage for the brakes.
Just a possibility...
Unfortunatley, some of the wax covered over the black moulding and left it some stain/spot on it...
Any suggestion to remove it, thanks.
Sounds trivial, I know, but dishwashing soap is designed to bind with greasey/oily substances (wax is such a substance). Just be careful to minimize getting it on the finish of the rest of the car... you obviously don't want to strip off the wax you just put on there.
Everywhere I've researched has said this connector is on the right hand side of the vehicle cabin (either behind the glove box, behind the passenger kick-panel, or behind the right side of the center console). I searched in all of those areas and could not find this connector so that I could read a trouble code.
Can someone please give me a better description of where I can find this connector? Yes, I know I can go to an Autozone, etc., etc., but that is not at all convenient and I'd much rather do it myself. FYI, I have the factory service manual but it also does not show it's location as far as I can tell (only mention I found is in a schematic for the ECM).
Thanks so much for the help!!!
Good luck getting that covered under warranty. Brakes are only waranted for 12,000 miles/12 months, it is all in the OWNER's MANUAL. All wear and tear items are covered for the initial 12 months only, including the refrigerant in the A/C system.
Who rotated your tires last time? Did they use imact driver to put the lugs back on? or did they torque it to the Honda specified 80 ft. lbs? The lug nuts should be put back on using a torque wrench in criss cross pattern.
Uneven torquening of the lug nuts is the most prevalent cause of Brake rotor warpage on a Honda.
TB
Steve, Host
Trick is getting the peanut butter off after you've removed the goo.
Perhaps a little jelly and toast?
tidester, host
Academically, it seems more economical to spread the tread wear over 5 tires vs 4. Also, I see your point with how the AWD system may be taxed less if the spare is used, and said spare has tread on it similar to that of the other tires (vs. having new tread, while the other 3 have worn tread). I'm not sure how much difference it may make though... surely the designers at Honda accounted for this situation.