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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Good idea. Should I try putting some bulb grease on the contacts as well? Also wondering if the weather change has made a difference. There was a 30 degree drop in temperature since driving last. Funny thing - AutoZone reset the ECU and so far the MIL has not come back on. Of course, I am still waiting for the readiness codes to reset themselves. :)
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    I have never seen corrosion there, so I have my doubts about grease helping them....but you do live in a salting area, in the winter, so it couldn't hurt. :)
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    In Cleveland, OH everything is salted. The roads here are on a high sodium diet. ;) Corrosion has been an issue with brakes and underbody components, even with regular under-carriage baths. Other thing I will look into is to see if there are any upgrades for the control module. I heard awhile back that some intermittent codes could be the result of the module not taking into account normal deposits on the sensors and not adjusting accordingly.
  • philsphanphilsphan Member Posts: 1
    Last night as I was leaving work I came to my second stoplight. As I was waiting, the car started to shudder and idle very rough. As it was bucking and snorting, the engine light flickered on and off, but then the car recovered and seemed to be fine, especially after I pulled away from the stoplight. Last night was the coldest night so far at around 25 degrees. I have not had cold weather problems previously, so I'm not sure what this could be. Any thoughts?
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Could have been the cold, if very cold, and you didn't give it a couple of minutes to warm up before driving. Also could have been some moisture in the fuel, and once cleared, it was fine.....
  • madamiakmadamiak Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. You said that it worked for 6 or 7 weeks. Did the problem come back after that?? Now did you replace the relay or the module or both??
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Since the engine light flickered, there may be a code stored in the computer. The light to look for should be amber in color and in the shape of an engine. Places like AutoZone can check trouble codes for free. They can also clear the code to see if it pops up again after driving awhile. Unfortunately, they have a generic scan tool and cannot give you the specific information regarding the error code. Once you have the code in hand, do a Google search for the code. If you are below 36,000 miles and less than 3 years the dealer should be able to look at under warranty. They have the tools to do any software upgrades if need be. One more thing to check is if the gas cap is tight. If the fuel system does not have enough pressure, it will cause the computer to set codes based on what the other sensors are seeing.
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    Ok, since I have had this vehicle I have been to service 3 times..for the TPMS which they finally fixed...now 2x a week apart...I get into the car in the am...turn the key..DEAD...turn again...starts right up. Has happened 2x now which makes me very nervous. Dealer said next time it does it to check what lights are on and there is nothing they can do unless it happens again. This is very frustrating..what if I am far from home next time and it does not start up again??
    Anyone had this issue and if so, what is it and what do I need to do? I had Toyota's all my life, I am so regretting getting this Honda. HELP!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Just a suggestion, perhaps to rule out an issue with the starting (sorry non-starting). Why not use the other main key (not the valet key) and see if it exhibits the no-start again. It's possible the key is no-go, or maybe even the ignition switch.

    Also, you don't happen to have a smart key for another vehicle on your keychain do you?

    When you try to start the vehicle, you want to see if anything on the dash is illuminated. If nothing illuminates, yeah the battery may be kaput, but more than likely, its the key, keyswitch or the immobilizer ckt.

    If the instruments do their self-test, I suppose you want to see if the immobilizer is complaining that the key is the wrong key / not recognized.
  • sceglascegla Member Posts: 20
    I second that on the second key. The inductance from the chip in the second key can cause havoc and get the immobilizer confused.
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    I am now using the other key..I do not have another smart key on the ring..it is only the one key for this CRV. I have to take the car next week and they are gonna give me a rental for the day...do you think I should just have them put in a new ignition switch and give me a new key???
  • dewaltdakotadewaltdakota Member Posts: 364
    I have one of those Exxon SpeedPass things that I had to remove from my keychain, because it sometimes interfered with the ignition on my Dodge Dakota. You don't happen to have one of those on your keyring, do you?
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    The only things I have on the keyring with the CRV key is a LED light "photon micro light....and one of those scan cards that goes on keyrings for CVS and Bennett Auto...should I take those off??? but, if they were the cause it would happen all the time wouldn't it??? Maybe I will remove them anyway in case..
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    the scan cards that have a barcode for discounts at various stores have no electronics in them to interfere with the immobilizer. i highly doubt you photon micro light would interfere either, it's proabably a button battery, switch, light emitting diode and resistor. nothing there to mess up the immobilizer.

    would i have them replace the ignition switch? no, i don't think so. i'd try to help your dealership by doing a little bit of ellimination / sleuthing myself.

    do i think your vehicle is going to leave you stranded? no, based on the fact that a second turn of the ignition helped both times, and also the vehicle hasn't shut down on you.

    at this point, if you can go a few consequtive (sp?) months without an issue, i'd probably suspect the FIRST non-valet key that was linked to the non-starts - then ask the dealership to replace that.

    but you're not sure what is occuring right now, and frankly, this IS the sort of problem that is really hard to track down at a dealership (like if it's one in one hundred start attempts or something).
  • scoops1kidscoops1kid Member Posts: 1
    The shift lever has locked into park. I have tried the shift lever lock release as described in the manual, which indicates to insert a screwdriver and "push down" on the lock release, but what they really mean to say is "push in". I used the extra key to do this after I read about this method on this site. Trouble is, it worked while the key is inserted, but doesn't after I start the car up again. Still can't get out of park, car does start and run. Any suggestions other than towing to the dealer? (of course it is Sunday and no one is open!)
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    One thing to try would be to take all of your keys and all of the remotes to the dealer and have them reprogrammed. This does not involve replacing any components but having the computer reset to recognize the different security codes. It may erase the glitch causing the no-start. Other possibility may be a bad contact in the starter relay? I had a car 10 years ago which did the same thing. It turned out that the starter was starting to go bad. Don't push the panic button based on my experience. ;)
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    You may be right about the key. Because I did switch keys and now my alarm works like it is supposed to..2x and the alarm sounds..with the other key I have to press 3 or 4 times..so maybe I will just have them reprogram all the keys and hopefully that will resolve my program. fingers crossed.
  • paulinctpaulinct Member Posts: 5
    My 2002 CR-v with 70200 miles had the MIL light up. I took it to Autozone and had them read the code (they will do this for free) and it showed P1166 and P1167. After a little investigating online I found this is the front O2 sensor. Honda calls this the fuel/air ratio sensor. I bought a new one from Honda It took about 15 minutes to install and the light is now off.
  • paulinctpaulinct Member Posts: 5
    My 2002 CR-V with ~ 80,000 miles has been making a rubbing/grinding noise when making sharp turns. This started about 5,000 to 10,000 miles ago and when it started I could only hear it if I listened carefully when making really tight turns, like with the steering turned all way. It gradually got worse over time and it would make the noise when making larger and larger radius turns.

    I spent some time reading the posts here at Edmunds and tried changing the rear differential fluid like some people suggested and it worked! All for about 1 hour of time and $15 and the noise is gone.

    It was an easy job. The only thing unexpected was that I had to remove the left rear tire to refill the fluid. I used a 3’ piece of tubing with a funnel taped to one end for this. It took about 1.25 L of the Honda dual pump fluid.
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Glad you found the solution, but isn't rear differential fluid replacement part of the scheduled maintenance, outlined in your maintenance list in the Owners Manual :confuse:
  • darlingcrvdarlingcrv Member Posts: 13
    I purchased a new 06 in July. Unfortunately I did something to the surface of the cover for the center table and need to replace it. I found the part I needed and ordered it.

    Has anyone ever replaced the cover on their table? Is it a hard process. I was, of course, hoping the old one would just pop off and then pop the new one one. However, it is really tight, I'm thinking it might actually be screwed from the bottom up.

    However, looking at the diagrams for the center table assembly, it does not really show that part of the cover, only the top.

    Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice or experience with this.

    Thanks!
  • inkieinkie Member Posts: 281
    You should do it every 20k or so, next time use a turkey baster or buy a plastic pump from sears for around 3.00 bucks and you won't have to remove the tire.
  • ted16ted16 Member Posts: 7
    I have a problem with the srs module on 2002 crv. Started with interior light not coming on when driver door was open, then warning signal when headlights are left on and now srs light stays on. Curious as to how many people have had problems with srs module on 2002 crv's and cost incurred to replace module.ted16
  • neebruneebru Member Posts: 3
    re SRS light..just got back fron Honda dealer[$294 later] it was seat belt sensor drivers side[can't replace just the sensor]replace "female side" of seat belt..they have extended warranty period on "OPDS" whatever thats is..anyone else having trouble..Neebru
  • crv2001secrv2001se Member Posts: 1
    I have a CRV 2001 SE that I purchased March of 2001.

    I'm not sure if it's the weather, but recently after pulling off from the garage at the next stop sign about a 3rd of a mile (1/2 km) from home, my engine stopped.
    It happened again this morning, so I'm worried.

    It has (just)over 49K miles on it.

    After it first happened, I made sure to heat up the engine first before driving away. I'm not sure if it helped.
    This morning, I didn't heat it up that long, but I'm pretty sure I stayed idled for a few minutes before leaving home.

    Any ideas what's wrong?

    Thanks.
  • toodlootoodloo Member Posts: 1
    I live in Pennsylvania. I just noticed some rust spots under the seals of both the rear passenger doors near the top of the windows. It appears that the seals are not tight like the front doors'. The seals looked a little bumpy and I pulled them back and saw rust through the paint. I don't know whether it will be covered under warranty. I will be printing this out and going to the dealer tomorrow and see what they say.
  • ted16ted16 Member Posts: 7
    Honda website identifies OPDS as Occupant Position Detection System. Have not found anything extending warranty period. If you have more info on warranty, Please Share.
  • neebruneebru Member Posts: 3
    Extended warranty came right from dealers mouth on the OPDS. I was told 50/50 shot on my SRS light,unfortunately my problem not covered,but Honda does pay for diagnostic[big deal].
  • phisherphisher Member Posts: 175
    If the problem is the OPDS the problem can arise if a small weight is placed on the seat or the door. In my 06 it lights up if my dog (10 lb) is in the passenger seat or trying to look out the window. Don't know if this helps though.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a CRV 2001 SE that I purchased March of 2001.

    I'm not sure if it's the weather, but recently after pulling off from the garage at the next stop sign about a 3rd of a mile (1/2 km) from home, my engine stopped.
    It happened again this morning, so I'm worried.

    It has (just)over 49K miles on it.

    After it first happened, I made sure to heat up the engine first before driving away. I'm not sure if it helped.
    This morning, I didn't heat it up that long, but I'm pretty sure I stayed idled for a few minutes before leaving home.

    Any ideas what's wrong?

    Thanks.

    If valves were never adjusted, they tighten with time.

    If your engine is very quiet, then the vlaves are really tight. Most Honda engines produce a ticking sound. Tight vlaves may lead to burned valve seats which require head replacement. Honda messed up the OWNER's MANUAL and listed the valve adjustment period wrong. They will cover most if not all the work if contacted directly, NOT DEALER, but Honda corporate. The number is on the back of the OWNER's MANUAL.

    Good luck.
  • gmoney2gmoney2 Member Posts: 31
    Honda messed up the OWNER's MANUAL and listed the valve adjustment period wrong.

    So, when should you have the valves adjusted?
  • tacoma5050tacoma5050 Member Posts: 5
    In 5th gear, at 65 MPH my 2003 CR-V rpms are at 3300. This seems high to me, becasue with my 3 speed AT civic the rpms are only at 2400 at 65mph.

    The dealer says this is OK as that is the way Honda setup the gear ratio with the manual tranmissions.

    Is this really OK? It seems like it would decrease gas milage and put more wear-n-tear on the engine. An extra 900 rpms will a lot more wear on the engine over time :-(

    Shifting from 4th to 5th gear lowers the rpm very little, why would Honda do that, why not just make 5th gear a higher ratio. When my civic [non-permissible content removed] to the last gear you see the rpms drop quite a bit.

    Why didn't Honda just make 5th gear like an overdive??
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    I ran about 2950 at 80 MPH on my 2003. The MT actually has higher RPMs than the AT.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    So, when should you have the valves adjusted?

    Every 30,000 miles, just like every other B-series powered Honda. Dealers usually know and will insist that valves are adjusted at 30,000 mile intervals. It usually runs $100 to have the dealer perform this service. Rear differential should be drained and refilled at 30,000 mile intervals as well.

    This was pure marketing sham on Honda's part to lower the cost of ownership. Shame, Shame. On the bright side, Honda knows about it and will cover most of the expenses associated with the lack of service.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Shifting from 4th to 5th gear lowers the rpm very little, why would Honda do that, why not just make 5th gear a higher ratio. When my civic [non-permissible content removed] to the last gear you see the rpms drop quite a bit.

    Why didn't Honda just make 5th gear like an overdive??

    Because people complained that cruise control would not maintain speed in 5th gear. So, by lowering the 5th gear ratio, the combination of higher RPM and shorter gearing produces more power to overcome hills and inclines to maintain speed.

    What year Civic has 3 speed auto?

    Mine revs around 3500 RPM at 80 mph, around 2700 RPM at 65 mph, all in 5th. I have a 2005 EX manual. Which is still better than the Civic Si (2002) which reved at 4000 RPM at 80 mph.

    On the bright side, the transmission retained the spacer reserved for the 6th gear. Some have replaced the spacer with the 6th gear from TSX/Civic Si/RSX and now have 6th gear. :)
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "So, when should you have the valves adjusted?

    Every 30,000 miles, just like every other B-series powered Honda. Dealers usually know and will insist that valves are adjusted at 30,000 mile intervals."

    For a 2003 CR-V, the Honda owners website lists the valve inspection at 110,000 miles. I went through every interval on the severe schedule until I found this entry.

    The CR-V is a K-series motor, not B-series.
  • epaluchepaluch Member Posts: 6
    Asking for some advice. My wife's '06 CR-V has 7,500 miles on it. Even though the manual lists oil-change / tire rotation intervals of 10,000 miles I am planning to do it now.
    When I called in for an appointment, the service rep is telling me that I need to have the rear differential fluid changed now or I risk it making noise and causing damage to it. When I asked if it was recommended by Honda in the owners manual they said no, but that Honda does recommend it at 7,500 miles for the first change then 15,000 miles thereafter. I checked the owners manual and it if specs every 90,000 miles.
    I'm guessing the dealer is just trying to hustle extra money out of me, and I'm more than a little angry about it. Just wondering if my anger is warrented. Thanks! :mad:
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "I'm guessing the dealer is just trying to hustle extra money out of me, and I'm more than a little angry about it. Just wondering if my anger is warrented. Thanks!"

    Yup, he is taking you for a ride. Tell them you want to stick with the maintenance schedule as presented by the automobile. The computer will tell you when maintenance is due.

    Or ask them to show you and official Honda maintenance schedule (there isn't one - the owner is expected to follow the maintenance minder).

    Oh, yeah, and find yourself a different Honda dealer.

    You can go to the following link, which is the Honda Owners site. They will have the maintenance schedule.

    Official Honda Owners Website
  • tacoma5050tacoma5050 Member Posts: 5
    blueiedgod had said: "...the transmission retained the spacer reserved for the 6th gear. Some have replaced the spacer with the 6th gear... & now have 6th gear"

    Does this mean I could replace the spacer and add a 6th gear on my 2003 CR-V?
  • epaluchepaluch Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the reply. I don't know what to do about the dealership. I started with the one where we purchased the vehicle because of the 3 different grades of engine oil they proposed. The "regular" oil is only good to 3500 miles according to them.
    No honest dealers in my area it appears (Southeast MA, RI)
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    The "regular" oil is only good to 3500 miles according to them

    I believe there are special additives in the original oil that are needed for the break in period that shouldn't be taken out early. Others here may know more details than I. Wow, you really need to go elsewhere. I'd also call Honda regional and complain about them.
  • sky23213sky23213 Member Posts: 300
    Yup, he is taking you for a ride. Tell them you want to stick with the maintenance schedule as presented by the automobile. The computer will tell you when maintenance is due.

    I agree on the ride, but not sure that '06s have the maintenance minder as in the '07. I apologize if I'm wrong, but I think the '06 is just like the '05. And as mentioned a few times before, the dual pump fluid DOES break down much sooner than 90K, that's why it's a good idea to do it at about 30K, unless the fluid is no good sooner (mine did at 17K). And some dealers will do it at no charge, as a good will/warranty issue if the noise appears.
    Still, I second the opinion on changing the dealer - every 15K is a bit excessive.

    P.S. Well, there is a maintenance minder, in a way, for the dual pump fluid - noise from the rear diff is a pretty good one saying "Do it now!" ;)
  • neebruneebru Member Posts: 3
    re:SRS light.fighting with Honda now..had to replace "pretn buckle set"..because of drivers seat belt buckle sensor failure..Honda's Warranty coverage states..HONDA WILL REPAIR OR REPLACE ANY HONDA SEAT BELT COMPONENT THAT FAILS TO FUNCTION PROPERLY DURING NORMAL USE..sensor part of seat belt assembly but they say not covered???????
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    www.ahm-ownerlink.com/Maintenance/maint_faqs.asp#oilfirst

    This is the link to read what Honda says about your first oil change.

    "WHY SHOULD I WAIT TO CHANGE THE OIL THE FIRST TIME?"

    "Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.

    "American Honda strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions."

    For my 2005 CR-V, that was 10,000 miles, and thats when I performed the first oil change, switching to 5W20 Mobil-1 synthetic.

    Were I you, I would show this to the Dealer and ask them to present me with an official text from Honda stating that Honda now has a different position on the issue of first oil change intervals.

    Dealer service personnel have rather thick skins and I doubt you will embarrass anyone there. But perhaps they might be somewhat more reluctant to attempt conning you in the future.

    Cheers,

    Jack
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    He may not have the intention of 'taking you for a ride.' Rather, the tech could have been uneducated or have a different opinion than Honda of America.

    Some things to remember:
    The sales department and the service department are not the same. They are under different cost centers and have different managers. Often, the two don't get along. So, a great experience in sales does not mean you'll get the same in service. When a salesperson tells you something, it's probably out of the car manuel (what he's been taught to say). When a tech says something, often it's his own opinion. Talk to another tech at the same dealership, and you'll get a different one.

    On the 2006 CR-V, the oil change schedule is 5,000 miles for severe, 10,000 for normal. Your tech may have been confused w/previous generations or other models, which have the 3750/7000 oil change schedule. Or, he could simply believe in changing the oil every 3,000. Techs also seemed to have a problem when Honda switched to 5w20. Many of the service departments continued to use and recommend 10w30 because 5w20 seemed so thin.

    Unfortunately, the maintainence schedule is only an estimate. What will actually happen can be very different. I had to have my diff fluid changed at 22,000 miles, despite Honda's recommendation of 90k. It was free, but they said only because it was under 30k. (Where the tech got that standard from, I don't know for sure, but in most cars, it is 30k.)
  • sky23213sky23213 Member Posts: 300
    Regarding the ride, I was referring to the suggested short interval for the dual pump fluid replacement, as I believe that's what was the poster was commenting:

    ...the service rep is telling me that I need to have the rear differential fluid changed now or I risk it making noise and causing damage to it. When I asked if it was recommended by Honda in the owners manual they said no, but that Honda does recommend it at 7,500 miles for the first change then 15,000 miles thereafter. I checked the owners manual and it if specs every 90,000 miles.

    As far as oil, I guess we all are pretty much on the same page.
  • darrengilsondarrengilson Member Posts: 3
    Hi i have a 1997 CR-V with 150000km on the clock. I bought it as a japanese import here in the UK nd apart from it having a split radiator header it has been great however recently after running out of fuel a warning light now illuminates. it looks like a pic of a silencer with heat coming of the top. What does this mean?
  • shaggieshaggie Member Posts: 2
    I have a 02 CrV and normally when you press the remote lock button twice the car beeps indicating that all is locked and the alarm is armed. The beep has just ceased to happen. I have checked all the doors and hatch and all are closed tight. The doors all lock, but why did the beep cease to beep?

    Thanks for any insight...
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    was the beep from the horn? maybe the wire to the horn has fallen off. try honking your horn from the steering wheel... you want to make sure that is still working. if it isn't you know you have to track down that problem.

    the other thing that comes to mind... it could be a relay or security module or wire/wiring harness problem...

    is this the honda alarm system?
    if so the installation instructions from H+A Accessories for the '02 option may provide a starting point for sleuthing loose wires / wiring harnesses:
    http://www.handaaccessories.com/crv/02CRVSECURITY.pdf
  • cbfr25cbfr25 Member Posts: 2
    I have a two year old 05 CR-V. I put on 10K miles every year so I just followed the honda schedule to change oil/filter once a year. The first oil/filter changed was done at local honda dealer a year ago. This time, I was planning to do it myself.
    However, after I located the oil filter, I found it has several dent marks on it (possibly made by plier wrench) and it is somewhat deformed. I suspect that person at the dealership failed to remove the original filter and just drained and filled the oil without telling me anything.
    What do you guys think? Or is it possible that they use plier wrench to tighten the new filter?
    Thanks!
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