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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    Dave... Many questions come to mind with 19.5k miles were did the oil go? is vehicle leaking? is engine using/burning oil? was it never full from day one?. Unfortunately it is up to the vehicles owner to check & maintain proper fluid levels. One should always on a regular basis clance under car to check for leaks & monitor fluid levels and address accordingly if a problem is found. Engine coolant & engine oil are the life blood of any internal combustion engine, significant loss of either one of these & major engine failure is often the result. Never rely on a warning (idiot) lite to tell you something is wrong. Options ??? beg & plead mercy to Honda Motor company, shop out & independent garage that may be able to do better on price. Purchase a good used motor have it installed. Or have lessons learned & dump vehicle & move on. All the luck to you... :mad:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well I wouldn't call this DamHonda. I can't imagine that any arbitration lawyer would side with you.

    Cars historically for years have always needed oil changes at a maximum of 3K miles, and for those that have owned diesels know that oil changes are particularly important because of the diesel by-products that end up in the oil. As technologies have improved over the years you can now generally get 5K miles on an oil change (with synthetics little longer). Some very high dollar cars with very tight engine clearances claim oil change periods of around 10K with synthetic oils and large oil pans containing large oil quantities. However, with oil and oil changes so in-expensive, makes no sense to take the risk and try to stretch mileage limits.

    Anyone that has owned a car, or knows anyone that has had a car, know that multiple oil changes a year are required. That's why I think you'll find no legal arbitrator siding with you....they know THEY have to change THEIR oil, so do you. I also think it's a weak leg to stand on saying they never sent you a manual. If you could prove you were at the dealer every week demanding a manual, and have sent multiple letters to the dealership and Honda over the course of 2 years...you MIGHT have a case.

    Because of the significant financial impact, this is certainly worth your time to pursue with Honda for some leniency financial assistance from them. Unfortunately I think you're going to be stuck with a VERY expensive repair bill, and need to figure out how to minimize the impact to you. If you can't find a sympathetic ear at Honda (and hence have to pay full list price and labor), I would suggest you look into whether you can find a similar model crashed/totalled vehicle at a junkyard, perhaps something that was hit from behind or the side......and investigate the cost of getting that engine and having it installed. I'm not sure I'd want anyone to try rebuilding my existing blown engine, as every moving part is probably scored pretty badly, with metal filings all over the place.

    Another possibility is that you have them take it as-is on trade, and buy your replacement car from them.

    Wow, best of luck in getting this resolved.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I think that "Maintenance required" light would give this person a clue.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    A case can be made for electric cars with maintenance free batteries...........
  • inkieinkie Member Posts: 281
    I have been using Honda Parts 4U to get all my required parts. They no longer are selling on line or taking telephone orders. Could someone reccommend an on line Honda Parts seller on the east coast or mid atlantic states? Thanx
  • gasincgasinc Member Posts: 1
    I just got the same news and found the same "manufacturing defect" as the 'problem cause'. I'll be calling Honda to try to work it out. This reminds me of my Mitsubishi Montero - nothing but BS service problems caused by poor engineering. Hopefully Honda will step up on this one. I bought this car new, and never received a service bulletin. If the Throttle Position Sensor itself were replaceable (like on most cars), I'd have bought it for $100 and it would already be installed by now. They quoted the part at $600+, and the installed price at $900+. it is all because the sensor is built into the throttle body. You have to replace the whole assembly, not just the sensor. Poor design! I expect more out of Honda (and I am usually right). This one got buy. If they stand behind their product, I'll keep buying Honda - if Not . . . . . We'll see.
  • esteezeesteeze Member Posts: 102
    I can imagine how frustrating this must be...

    I had the part fail in my 03 EX AWD at 35K miles, so I just fell under the orginal warranty (whew!). I could have easily been on the "other side" of 36K.
  • madams1madams1 Member Posts: 101
    We also just had this replaced at 57,000 miles under the extended warranty. I knew that something was wrong when it started idiling weird, bucking, etc. along with the check engine light. I should have asked the dealer, but has the problem been fixed on the 'new' one that was installed or is this likely to happen again?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    but that is soo much more efficient from a parts stocking and shipping point of view. If you do this across the product line, there are many less part numbers to stock and inventory to carry.

    This yields lower overhead costs, and ultimately lower new car prices (or so the theory is).

    And when you stop to think about it compared to value of cars YEARS ago (of course uplifting for inflation), you can get a really nice set of cars to choose from in the less than 20K range.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have been using Honda Parts 4U to get all my required parts. They no longer are selling on line or taking telephone orders. Could someone reccommend an on line Honda Parts seller on the east coast or mid atlantic states? Thanx

    If Honda parts 4 u is the same as http://www.fairhondapartsforyou.com then you can still order from them, since your name is still in the database. I used to buy from them too, and pick up in person.

    Now, I buy from http://www.hondaacuraworld.com and pick up in person. They don't charge shipping, but do charge $5 handling per order. If a part is not listed on the website, give them a call and they will get it for you. They are in suburb of Buffalo, NY, so shipping to NE and Mid-atlantic should only take a day or two.
  • inkieinkie Member Posts: 281
    Thanks, Thats the ones that I am looking for. I had the names of all the suppliers but discarded them because Parts 4u was so good. Let that be a lesson don't throw anything out. Yes! thats Fair Honda, they said I can order but I must pick up.Thats a long trip from PA. Thanks to both of you. I know these sites were mentioned here but my searches were not successful.
  • namragnamrag Member Posts: 7
    I just developed a rattle in the exhaust system of my 2000 EX w/ 128K miles a few days ago, so last night cawled underneath to investigate.
    I found that the heat shield (atleast that is what I call it) on the top side (between converter and car body) has corroded away at the attachment points and is rattling on the catalytic converter.

    I am hoping that the shield is available seperately from the converter as the shield appears to be a simple aluminum type sheet, and would be expected to be cheaper than an entire catalytic converter.

    However, I have been unable to locate this part online at any parts sites.
    Is anyione familiar with this part? Do I have the correct nomenclature? Can it be replaced without having to replace the entire catalytic converter?

    Thanks.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    No need to replace the heat shields. To do so you may end up damaging the converter. The screws which hold the shields in place go into the converter and are usually rusted solid and will break if loosened. I looked into it when mine started to rattle and the dealer said "just remove it." Huh?!! What I ended up doing and works perfectly is to go to the hardware store and buy large hose clamps. Put those around and tighten. Get the stainless ones because the other ones will rust apart. I think I bought ones which were 4.5" or 6" size. Not too bad of a job.
  • namragnamrag Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the advice. That should help save me some money!
  • dewaltdakotadewaltdakota Member Posts: 364
    Should you opt to replace the parts, you're probably looking at item #18182-P75-A10, which can be ordered through Bernardi, College Hills, or your local dealer. It retails at about $41, but can be had cheaper, online.

    If you want to look it up yourself on the Bernardi site, in the parts search section, choose "Electrical / Exhaust / Heater / Fuel" under "System", and "3. Exhaust Pipe" under "Component." RefNo #005_2 is the upper shield.
  • accorder1accorder1 Member Posts: 5
    Go to Home Depot and get a 4"-7" stainless steel hose clamp in the plumbing department. They cost $1.85. Wrap it around the heat shield and tighten it. Rattle gone. Problem fixed.
  • inkieinkie Member Posts: 281
    You guys were nice enough to give me the names of the Honda parts sellers when I posted an inquiry. So I would like to return the favor.Did extensive research and came up with www.bernardiparts.com up in Mass. and RI. Has every part and maintenence item you need with parts lists and diagrams. The prices are very close to now defunct Honda parts 4 U.No handleing charges. Ordered Monday recieved shipment today. Funny, one of the posters mentioned bernardi {post5200}
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    Correct , I have used them in the past and also purchased my extended warranty from them last summer.

    :).... MNF
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Wow!!! That's considerably less than I paid at the hardware store. :blush:
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    Well, I have had my 2007 CRV since Oct 29th and the light for the passenger airbag was always illuminated OFF when I drove if no one was in that seat..now all of a sudden it is not ON..it still lights up when I start the car however...why would it after almost 5 months do this??????
  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    Ours has never come on with exception of initial start-up. If I am to understand the owners manual correctly it states: "the indicator comes on to alert you that weight sensors have detected weight of 65lbs or less (approx. weight of a small child) it does not mean there is a problem with the airbag". Another statement in the manual "if no weight is detected on the r/front seat the air bag will automatically shut off. However the indicator will not come on". If the indicator comes on with no r/front seat passenger & no objects on seat or with an adult sitting there, something may be interfering with the weight sensors... Look for & remove any items under the front seat, any objects hanging on the seat or in seat back pocket son on & so forth... If again I understand this correctly for the 1st 5 months of you driving the system may have thougt something was up, & now may have corrected itself??? best reccomendation have SRS system checked out.
  • m1042m1042 Member Posts: 3
    Update on my 2002 CRV, 76K miles, engine light on, no symptons.

    Brought car in to dealer. Honda dealer diagnosed engine light on as a need to replace:

    throttle body
    02 sensor,
    fuel filler neck and cap
    Total: just under $2,000 with tax!!!!!!

    Dealer would not tell me/give me any info. about a service bulletin. Dealer called Honda and Honda said they would give me 25% off if I did the job in 4 days!!!!

    Went home, called Honda and they gave me a case number and case manager (did not return calls for a week). Finally got a hold of him and he said the 25% discount was reasonable. I mentioned if this could be a defect/safety issue. After several more calls the result was: $500 total!!!!! Figure this?????
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    Thank you...I will check it out. My husband has a new Ford F150 and his light stays on when no one is in the seat. Maybe it should be off and mine was wrong staying on. I usually have my purse on the seat only..which weighs 1 lb if that. I will go have this checked out anyway just to be sure. thanks again..
  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    Glad to be of help... All automotive warning lites/indicators work about the same. In KOEO (key on engine off) all dash & system lites should be on. (this is a system/bulb check). KOER (key on engine running) all dash system lites (after system check) should go out. The purpose of this is that if a malfunction should occur while driving a warning lite/indicator should illuminate to warn you of a potential problem in that system. I think had Honda chosen to use the term "airbag malfunction" instead of "airbag off" this would have been less confusing to people. Generally speaking if a warning lite is on of any kind while vehicle is running... SOMTING WONG!!! Good luck to you. :)
  • dewaltdakotadewaltdakota Member Posts: 364
    I used to slide my front window shade between the center floor console and the passenger side seat to store it, and it would intermittantly trigger the passenger side airbag light to illuminate, indicating that the airbag had been switched off. Relocating the shade, resolved the issue.
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    Wasn't some of that covered under the extended emission warranty? What was wrong with the fuel filler neck? Is there a filter in the neck?

    Anyway, it pays to complain. Did they actually repair/replace everything on the list? Your story reads like the dealer may have been piling on things to fix.
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    thanks again...
  • m1042m1042 Member Posts: 3
    I did not have any extended warranty. Just the basic which I think was 3 years/36K.

    All the work was done. My local repair shop came up with other information from ALLDATA that mentions a failed fuel filter pipe and gas cap that binds for the 2002-2004 crv. defect code: 03214; symptom code: 03203.
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    Oh man, now when I just went out..the light is back lit saying OFF...should I have it checked out or just forget about it...
  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    I would, when the lite is "on" saying "off" (boy does that sound confusing) passenger front air bag for all intensive purposes is not going to operate. Now if someone sits in the seat & lite goes out then in therory it should deploy if needed. But will you ever really know. Be safe have it looked at,hell it's under warranty !!! Let me know how it turns out :mad:
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    I will have it checked...when I went just now to pick up my mom and she sat in the seat..the OFF light went out..it IS confusing..will let you know when I go what they tell me. You are right, it is under warranty so I may as well get them to check it out. What a riot. :shades:
  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    If I had to give you an educated guess gwingee, I think they will find that one of the weight sensors under r/front seat is acting up... It appears from what you have said that with no one in the seat "off lite is on", that indicates to me that weight sensors think something is on seat but not heavy enough to meet the sensors weight parameters thus illuminating lite to tell you r/front air bag has been turned off (disabled). Isn't technology fun!!! :confuse: keep me updated.
  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    gwingee

    Found this on another forum, thought you might find it helpful. If nothing else you can say your not alone.

    Flag for Review
    Feb 4, 2007

    i just bought a 2007 cr-v ex-l and i'm having an issue with it. the air bag light has been coming on since the day i bought it. i have had it looked at and the service guy said that the computer code it came up with wasn't in the service manual so they called honda. honda said that they only had like 2 other vr-vs come up with the same code and they said it was the srs unit, and no signal to the passenger airbag. so they replaced the srs unit and told me that the light wouldn't come back on again. today the light came on again.... haven't talked to honda again cause its sunday. i was just wondering if anyone else on here has had the same problem??????

    Reply »
    Flag for Review
    Feb 5, 2007

    The sensor for the passenger side airbags needs to be replaced as well to rectify the problem. This was most likely the cause in the first place.
  • garywigarywi Member Posts: 54
    Anyone figure out how to stop the irritating seat belt chime? My Toyota could be programed to shut off.

    Please Help!
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Other than by wearing the seat belt? :P If it chimes when there is no one in the seat, my guess would be a bad sensor. Usually the chimes go off by themselves after awhile and leave the light on the dash?
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Anyone have a loud clunk from behind the front wheels? Most noticeable when making a sharp turn or a hard stop, sometimes also when going over rough pavement. Brakes have the new pad hardware to reduce noise.
  • stick25stick25 Member Posts: 6
    Looks like I may have the same problem. I took it to the dealer yesterday. They reset the computer and suggested that I wait and see if the malfunction light comes on again. It did after about 20 miles. Just wondering, since the problem is supposedly caused by a "contaminated sensor", has anybody tried using a can of fuel system cleaner?
  • stick25stick25 Member Posts: 6
    Could it be a CV joint? How old/many miles on it?
  • mpzichmpzich Member Posts: 4
    I had an engine light that indicated a failed throttle position sensor. I solved the problem by using "total fuel system" cleaner. There are several companies that make it. I used "Gumout". I had to do it twice (two tank fulls of gas). The sensor would turn on and off while the cleaner was working, but it did the job and have not had another problem for 6 months. I plan to use total fuel system cleaner every oil change (about 6 months), to prevent this from happening again. Caution: do not use "fuel injector" cleaner. It is cheaper, but will not work.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    I have an '02 with 40,000 miles. It seems to have always been noisy. The last time at the dealership, they said one of the boots was leaking. I think the leak was in my wallet because the grease was left on from a previous repair. I agreed to have boot replaced and the joint cleaned since already apart. What about ball joints or strut noise? :confuse:
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    I tend to use Techron in the tank about 3 times a year when I drive extensive highway miles. I do notice a temporary drop in mileage. Normal highway I get about 22MPG and goes down to around 20MPG. Would it pay to remove the air scoop and spray directly into the opening as well?
  • stick25stick25 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks! Sounds like my situation is very similar. In fact, my light is turning on and off (and I haven't put the Gumout in yet). As luck would have it, I happened to fill the tank yesterday right before the light turned on the second time - so I need to use some gas before I put the Gumout in and refill. Hopefully, it will work in my case, too. It's a whole lot cheaper than a new throttle body, so it's worth the try, even if it doesn't help.
  • stick25stick25 Member Posts: 6
    I suggested CV joints because you said the clanking occurred when turning and that's a classic CV joint symptom. But, my 2002 EX w/55K hasn't had any problems with CV joints, struts or suspension - so I can't help anymore.

    BTW: Thanks for your response regarding the throttle body sensor and fuel system cleaner.
  • garywigarywi Member Posts: 54
    Tell me if I am imagining this. With the A/C on, if I accelerate moderatly hard, the compressor seems to shut off to allow the acceleration. I notice warm air coming out. As soon as the trasmission shifts into 4th or 5th and RPMS are stable, cold air starts to come out again.

    ??
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't have a CRV but tracking this forum as anticipating might buy one in the future, but I had this on a VW Golf Diesel I had 15 or so years ago. It would purposely turn off the heavy compressor load, diverting all of the torque and HP to accelerate.

    I would think if this is how the CRV is built, it would call this out in the owners manual.
  • garywigarywi Member Posts: 54
    I will look again in owners manual.
  • summermoosummermoo Member Posts: 3
    Just bought a 1999 CRV a few days ago. The accessory power socket is loose and hanging out of it's place in front of the dash, along with the plastic dash piece. I can feel through a little hole along the side if I take out the ash tray, and reach the nut that I suppose is to hold all of this in place on the wires from the back, but I can't grab a hold of it to screw it back onto the back of the socket. How do you get to the nut and grab hold of it, and is this really what I am feeling? (Can't see a thing, all by feel).
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    congrats on the purchase. two sites you need to know about if not already:

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
    specifically:
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=CR-V&catcgry2=1999&catcgry3=5DR+LX+2WD&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=INSTRUMENT+- - GARNISH

    and
    http://www.handaaccessories.com/crvint01.html

    question: does the socket have threads? i suspect it doesn't but not seeing it. what i would expect would hold it in is some form of metal clip.

    now imagine, if it's to be attached with a screw or clip with a hole, then somehow you'd have to be able to unplug the accessory outlet and feed the wires through it.

    another possibility (and i admit the exploded diagram above isn't that great for your inquiry, but those diagrams in general is really great), is that the socket itself is supposed to have plastic or metal collar with fingers that compress going into the hole that allow insertion and then hold the socket in the hole when they open up.

    what i'd do is bring the vehicle down to the dealer and strike up a conversation with the parts counter person. tell him your accessory power socket is hanging out and ask if he'd take a look.

    another idea is for you to go to a pull it place and look how it's supposed to be attached.

    ok, it might help if you move the seats back and incline them back. then "fly upside down". ;) but seriously, you got to get in there and see what you're dealing with, right?... i suggest a small mirror and a good flashlight. sometimes an extra pair of hands from the other side of the car help. good luck. :shades:
  • summermoosummermoo Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for reply...I had to take some of the dash off to get to it (hassle) and even that didn't completely expose it for easy handling. The power socket does have a thread in the back and a nut-like cup in back of dash peice to screw onto socket, holding it all together and in place. Had to unplug electrical connection, screw socket and nut, and then connect electric components back together behind dash, and all within the space for two fingers. But it's now in place and works. Thanks again, I appreciate your help. And the websites will come in handy. I really like the car, so far.
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