Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

1…103104106108109…136

Comments

  • drive62drive62 Member Posts: 637
    I forget which brother runs the garage but Click and Clack, the Magliozzi brothers, like Goss, have a garage, radio show and web site. There were recommending 5,000 mile intervals a couple of years ago and were on the fence about 7,500 intervals.

    No one mentioned that Pat Goss is on Motorweek, he does a segment every week. I've seen pictures of Tom and Ray and see why they are not on TV ;). OT and going way back. I still hear way more Subaru owners calling than Honda owners.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "And for stevedebi: If you didn't lift that line with the word "usual" from the Honda manual, I have to assume you either got it from the Psychic Hotline or it's a bit of creative writing. Neither works for me."

    OK, I give up. If you go back and look at the original post you will see where I got the quote... :blush:

    I do not own a CR-V at the moment, but when I am in the market (probably 2009), I may well buy one. If so, I will listen to Honda's recommendations as to how to maintain the vehicle.

    Others can listen to whomever they wish; it's a free country.
  • starchild4starchild4 Member Posts: 8
    I also would like to thank you for the link. Beginning to wonder if anyone could help me. Thanks again!
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    I had that on my '02. The bulletin corrected the issue. I hear that others need to have the subframe shifted? Here is the writeup that corrected my issue: ALLDATA may be free at your library to access.

    03-004

    June 3, 2005

    Applies To:
    2002 CR-V 4WD With A/T - ALL England produced (VIN begins with SHS)
    2003 CR-V 4WD EX With A/T - From VIN SHSRD788.3U100001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108790
    2003 CR-V 4WD LX With A/T - From VIN SHSRD784.3U1 00001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108913

    Vehicle Drifts to the Right

    (Supersedes 03-004, dated January 21, 2003, to update the information indicated by the black bars)

    SYMPTOM
    The vehicle drifts or pulls to the right while driving at highway speeds.

    PROBABLE CAUSE
    The angle of the upper spring seat is incorrect.

    CORRECTIVE ACTION
    Realign the damper spring on the upper spring seat.

    WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION






    In warranty:
    The normal warranty applies.

    Out of warranty:
    Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.

    REPAIR PROCEDURE

    1. Remove the damper unit from the vehicle (see page 18-21 of the 2002-04 CR-V Service Manual).







    2. Position the upper bars of the strut spring compressor to press on an upper coil of the spring.

    3. Compress the damper spring with the strut spring compressor according to the manufacturer's instructions.







    4. Once the spring is compressed enough to relieve pressure, rotate the upper spring seat until the cutout is in the position shown below (approximately 35 degrees clockwise). You may need to apply an upward pressure to release the seat from the spring.







    5. Slowly release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, and allow the spring to seat. Make sure the lower end of the spring remains aligned with the stops in the lower seat, the upper end stays in the grooves of the upper spring seat mounting cushion, and the bump stop is in the correct location.

    6. Remove the damper assembly from the strut spring compressor.

    7. Reinstall the damper unit on the vehicle.

    8. Repeat steps 1 thru 7 for the other side.

    9. After reinstalling both dampers, check the alignment of the vehicle.

    10. Test-drive the vehicle to verify the drift is gone.
  • halfpint3069halfpint3069 Member Posts: 1
    Mike,
    Were you able to repair or replace? I found the same fluid splash marks and smell of radiator fluid with my 97 CR-V.
    Jeff B.
  • mkfrompgmkfrompg Member Posts: 1
    Have an 05 Honda CRV. At 25,000 miles it made a grinding noise in turns. Called the dealer to make an appointment to bring it in for service. When I told the maintence rep what the problem was without saying it was a CRV, he said "Is it a CRV?" He then said the differential fluid in the CRV is only rated for 15,000 miles and needed to be replaced. The dealer replaced it under the warrenty.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I tried repairing it with JB Weld, but it didn't hold and ended up replacing the radiator. I did it myself, but wouldn't recommend it, some of the hoses and bolts are very difficult to get to.
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Member Posts: 196
    Did this fix the problem?
  • luke_warmwaterluke_warmwater Member Posts: 5
    2004 CR-V LX 2WD with 84k interstate miles. The transmission has always made a mild "clacking" sounds when putting it into drive from park. It's always done this. Has anyone else had a similar experience? The vehicle has never been in the shop and always shifts good. I am going to begin towing my 1500 lb. aluminum bass boat with it. Also, when using the brakes the first thing in the morning, they tend to make a "clacking sound" too like the calipers actuating for the first time. Anyone experience that? Just curious. Thanks for you time.
  • calviccalvic Member Posts: 6
    Yes Sir, my 2007 CR-V LX 2WD w/ 6500 miles does the exact same thing. It hasn't been in for the first service yet. I too was concerned about this, mine actually sounds a little like gear grind. Sounds strange huh?

    JJ
  • luke_warmwaterluke_warmwater Member Posts: 5
    JJ,

    I later went to hondasuv.com and found an enormous amount of info regarding tech bulletins and explanations for noises, sounds etc for the CR-V. Turns out that the some (or all)of the noise may actaully be the front and rear brake pads shifting position slightly and striking the brake caliper when the wheel rotates ever so slightly after the transmission engages. It's normal. I also have a rattle that comes from the front passenger side. It turns out Honda had to follow through with a tech bulletin (which hondasuv.com had available to print) that will solve the problem. Something about clearance between the chassis and motor mount.

    Check out that website.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    so... honda suggests the 4WD requires little maintenance. it probably recommends rear-differential fluid changes at intervals much longer than 15K.

    i wonder if they are going to give you a break on servicing if it requires 15K changes.
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    My 2005 CRV owners manual says to change the rear differential fluid at 90,000 miles. Well, my CRV started the "moaning while turning" syndrome at 17,000 miles. My Honda dealer/stealer knew exactly what was wrong and changed the rear differential fluid, no cost to me since the car is still under original warranty. I expect I'll need to change the rear differential fluid at circa 17,000 +/- from now on. Honda likes to advertise and market "minimum maintenance required" vehicles, but the rear differential fluid is clearly NEVER going to last 90,000 miles, and Honda shouldn't say it will.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    You bring up some good points and I'm changing my mindset of religiously following the owner's manual. The manufacturer really does have a good marketing ploy if they can advertise "minimum maintenance required".
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 237,100
    This is a "known" problem, but it doesn't affect every CR-V. Mine has over 85K, and is still on the original rear differential fluid.

    I certainly wouldn't pay to change it ahead of time, unless it exhibits the symptoms..

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    I have an LX 2005 with the OEM tires. Road noise is very loud, music should be very loud to be able to hear it.
    Did you noticed significant road noise reduction after you put the new Goodyear tires?
    thanks,
    dan
  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    I drive a 4 cyl Camry 2003 with OEM tires. I also drive my wife's 05 CRV LX with OEM tires, 12,000mi. Difference of road noise level in passenger cabin between this 2 cars is tremendous.
    CRV is soooo loud, by all means!!
    I've read about paying $500+ for "quiet" tires on the CRV...thing that I don't even had considered on my Camry...
    I also read about CRV doors lined with dynamat extreme. I guess all the CRV's need MUCH better soundproofing before changing the tires.
    Anyone out there applied any kind of soundproofing that significantly reduced the noise level??
    "Better" tires do really diminish the road noise perceived in the cabin??
    Thanks,
    Dann
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I drive a 4 cyl Camry 2003 with OEM tires. I also drive my wife's 05 CRV LX with OEM tires, 12,000mi. Difference of road noise level in passenger cabin between this 2 cars is tremendous.
    CRV is soooo loud, by all means!!
    I've read about paying $500+ for "quiet" tires on the CRV...thing that I don't even had considered on my Camry...
    I also read about CRV doors lined with dynamat extreme. I guess all the CRV's need MUCH better soundproofing before changing the tires.
    Anyone out there applied any kind of soundproofing that significantly reduced the noise level??
    "Better" tires do really diminish the road noise perceived in the cabin??
    Thanks,
    Dann

    Drive an Accord and it will be queter too. CR-V is an entry level SUV, and as such, corner had to be cut to meet the price restrictions. Just think about it, CR-V and Accord are priced very close to each other when comparably equipped (EX to EX, LX to LX), but CR-V offer AWD and more room.

    I think Accord comes with Michelin tires, there is your $500 right there. What are the OEM tires on the Camry? Try those on the CR-V and see if it quiets it down.

    I got Futura tires from PepBoys (made by Cooper) and they are considerably queter than the Dueler H/T.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    Thanks for the advice, but there are different wheel sizes on 2003Camry vs 2005CRV Honda. Toyota has some GY Regatta, that are $85/ea- basic, standard tires. Same are the Dunlop Grand Trak on my CRV.
    Tires will be one of the noise factors...thing is that if car has not enough soundproofing, nothing will damp the road noise, not even a $500 set of tires.
    Although I bought the CRV almost new, I am VERY disappointed from this p.o.v. All those safety features, utility and powertrain performance of the CRV are shadowed by the poor-soundproofing aspect.
    I drove a RAV4 ( 4WD), and it was much, much quieter then my 2WD CRV. Not to mention the Highlander ( 4 cyl) -smooth as a breeze.
    Unless road has black top, I am trying to stay away from driving the CRV on other surface...that's how noisy it is :mad:
    I was hopping that some sort of aftermarket coating or soundproofing stuff creamed into the doors will help. Anyone aware of it, please let me know.
  • eroc69eroc69 Member Posts: 56
    I have the 05 EX model. It came with Bridgestone Desert Duelers, HORRIBLE. lasted less than 2 yrs. Wife was slipping in minor, light snow. I know Pittbsurhg is very hilly but please, bad choice of tires. I spent almost 500 on a set of Michelin HydroEdge. Didnt have much snow this past winter. They are quieter but the most noise comes from the rear door. Maybe it needs more rubber weathersealing?
    Mine still pulls to the right even after I brought it in for maybe 4th time?
    SOOOO Frustrating especially since Iam not friendly with the service departrment.
    They just rotated front right to left and front left to right. They said problem fixed.
    I CANT TAKE IT ANYMORE.
    To the poster who linked the TSBs, thanks...
  • eroc69eroc69 Member Posts: 56
    Thanks for finding and listing this. I need to print it out and make them fix it. Problem is I and almost everyone at my job is friendly with the local Honda service and I cant really HAMMER them like a regular customer and that I didnt buy the CR-V there either.
    its frustrating when they just rotate the 2 front wheels and say its better. AND ITS NOT :mad:
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I was hopping that some sort of aftermarket coating or soundproofing stuff creamed into the doors will help. Anyone aware of it, please let me know.

    If you live in the snow belt (I assume you don't since you have a 2WD CR-V) you can get the car undercoated by one of those really greasy rustproofing sprays. It will deaden the sound and probably add 50 lbs to the vehicle. It will make a mess on your driveway in the summer as it melts away. And Honda generally does not recommend it, as it plugs up the drains at the bottom of the vehicle, such as sunroof and A/C condeser drains.

    There is a big dfifference between Honda and Toyota in the way they approach driving dynamics. Toyotas are like Buick, lesurly, soft, and generally dosconnected from the road. Honda, on the other hand, draws a lot from its Formula 1 heritage, and believes that isolating the driver from the road is wrong. Driver should be involved in driving, and be one with the vehicle, rather than just an outside observer.

    The driving preferences are normally sorted out during a test drive, people who prefer being isolated usually run across the street to Toyota to be cuddled in the isolation. People who prefer being involved and knowing exactly what the vehicle is doing, run from Toyota to Honda or BMW.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    no, no, you're right, I'm in the snow/ rust belt of Lakes State .But 4WD will not make my life easier on the wintery roads of Michigan packet with tons of SALT. Every winter I see MOSTLY 4WD SUV's ditched on I75...Wonder why..
    Thanks for your in-depth analysis of the 2 manufacturer philosophies. It is very interesting... and I am glad I can share/ drive them both ;)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Every winter I see MOSTLY 4WD SUV's ditched on I75...Wonder why..

    That has to do with people thinking that AWD/4WD makes them invinsible to the laws of physics.

    AWD/4WD only helps you get going, when one or two wheels may have limited traction. 4 wheels with limited traction are better than 2 wheels with limited traction. Once going, AWD/4WD, especially in the CR-V's Real Time AWD set up has no effect.

    Regardless of AWD/4WD braking and steering is still done by the same 4 and 2 wheels respectivley, so AWD/4WD does not help someone who is going way too fast for the conditions, or is not paying attention 100% of the time and then tries to compensate with steering or brakes, when traction is limited.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    agree 100% with you.
    CRV is a Civic car- platform on steroids, NOT A TRUCK.
    As long as Honda does not build 4WD Civics and as long as Civics run OK on the wintery slushy roads, I didn't find any reason to buy a 4WD CRV.
    I went to Europe, seen the CRV's over there, none of them were 4WD. But they're manual DIESELS most of them ;) And they have a hell of winters over there compared to Michigan.
    4WD's on small car based SUV's only is marketing indoctrination for non-aware and non conscious drivers. As my friends over the pond tells me: how can you call yourself a driver by driving auto transmission???
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "As long as Honda does not build 4WD Civics and as long as Civics run OK on the wintery slushy roads, I didn't find any reason to buy a 4WD CRV. "

    I ran my 2003 through a very muddy south road coming out of Chaco Canyon in NM a couple of years ago. The RT4WD was kicking in constantly. A Civic would have been left at the first mud hole, churning helplessly. And it was 40 miles to the nearest tow truck, with no cell phone towers in sight. One has to drive carefully in such situations; the CR-V cannot lock the rear differential (and does not have limited slip), so some speed is necessary to avoid sticking in the mud. I should have gotten a picture of the CR-V the next day; it was covered in mud, all the way over the roof. There wasn't a clean part of the vehicle anywhere.

    BTW, it scared the you-know-what out of my family, and I probably would go around the long way if I had to do it over. :blush: But then the northern route had 6 inches of water in the arroyo that the road went through when we entered the park, and might have been over a foot with the rain we encountered at Chaco. But I think I would have still tried it.

    Other than that situation, I have had the RT4WD kick in when going through 4 inches of water (ON the main highway :surprise: ) in Carlsbad, NM, and while driving in Yosemite National Park during icy conditions. Plus the occasional RT4WD use during rainy conditions in SoCal (but not often - it hasn't rained a whole lot the past few years).

    RT4WD isn't for constant use, but it does the job in those "temporary" situations.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    As long as Honda does not build 4WD Civics

    Honda actually does build AWD Civics, they just don't sell them in the US. CR-V smaller brother HR-V is also available else where.

    Honda used to sell AWD Civics in the US from 1985 through 1989, they were sold as Civic Wagon AWD, which in reality was THE predecessor to the CR-V.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Rotating the two front wheels will address isolating tire pull. Trouble is that after awhile if there is an underlying adjustment needed, the vehicle will drift again. I know your position with hammering the dealer. I actually went to Conrad's (or any local alignment shop) with the service bulletin in hand and paid to have the struts adjusted. I felt the $150 was easier out of pocket than a grudge match with the dealer. All said and done, I went back to the dealer and paid for the alignment as well since it was past the 12,000 miles wear and tear portion of the warranty. Long story short, it was worth the out of pocket cost with several shops to get the PTTR eliminated. Hope you can find the combination which works out for you.
  • carol19carol19 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 2003 CRV in Aug. 2005. It had about 15.000 miles on it. Since then it has been necessary to turn the roters twice and replace the pads once. I don't brake hard nor do I drive in rush hour traffic. Is this normal for a Honda? This is my first - I have driven Toyotas in the past.
    Carol19
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Definately not normal. I have a 99 CRV with 130K miles that I've had new since day one, front brake pads have been changed twice with the rotors turned each time and my mechanic says I can probably get one more turn out of them. Why did you have them turned? Was there a vibration in the steering wheel when you braked? It's possible the calipers are bad and not grabbing the rotors correctly. I'm not a mechanic so my terminology may be incorrect but some of the others here can help out.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I bought my 2003 CRV in Aug. 2005. It had about 15.000 miles on it. Since then it has been necessary to turn the roters twice and replace the pads once. I don't brake hard nor do I drive in rush hour traffic. Is this normal for a Honda? This is my first - I have driven Toyotas in the past.
    Carol19

    If whoever installed the wheels did not torque them properly, using torque wrench (not torque sticks which are inaccurate) to 80 lbs, or torqued them unevenly, it will cause the rotor to warp from uneven/incorrect pressure on the rotor hat.

    If whoever installed wheels used impact driver to put the lug nuts on, no turning will help, you will need to get new rotors.

    Also, let go of the brakes after the vehicle stopped. This way the rotors don't develop heat spots where the brake pads are pressed against heated rotor for prolonged period of time (like wiating at a light). The rest of the rotor cools off, while the area covered by the pads is still hot. This can cause the rotor to warp as well.
  • cohappycohappy Member Posts: 6
    I have this problem on my 2002 crv. My tires rub when turned hard to either side. I know there is an adjustment but do not know how to do it. I believe you adjust the tie rod ends, but am not sure any help would be appreciated.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have this problem on my 2002 crv. My tires rub when turned hard to either side. I know there is an adjustment but do not know how to do it. I believe you adjust the tie rod ends, but am not sure any help would be appreciated.

    1) It shouldn't rub if you are running on stock sized tires and stock suspension.

    2) If you have different size rim/tires or modified suspension see 1.
  • cohappycohappy Member Posts: 6
    Tire or rim size never changed, this has done this since new. A friend of mine says it was not adjusted right. I need to know how to adjust it.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    on my 05LX, I hear a continuous click-click-click- when the turn signal is engaged and steering wheel is returnig from max steerings ( to the left or right). Also, while driving to a complete STOP (at a stop light for ex), I hear another click coming from inside the auto stick where the P,N,D,R are activated
    Car still in warranty...went to the dealer...said it's "normal" for all GEN2. It's actually annoying. Too many clicks...like there's something's cracking inside every time I take a turn or stop.Cheap thing feeling.... :lemon: Anyone else encountering this?
    thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Tire or rim size never changed, this has done this since new. A friend of mine says it was not adjusted right. I need to know how to adjust it.

    So, it has been rubbing for the last 5 years, and you never had the dealer look at it while the vehicle was under warranty?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    on my 05LX, I hear a continuous click-click-click- when the turn signal is engaged and steering wheel is returnig from max steerings ( to the left or right). Also, while driving to a complete STOP (at a stop light for ex), I hear another click coming from inside the auto stick where the P,N,D,R are activated
    Car still in warranty...went to the dealer...said it's "normal" for all GEN2. It's actually annoying. Too many clicks...like there's something's cracking inside every time I take a turn or stop.Cheap thing feeling.... Anyone else encountering this?
    thanks

    The click click click when you turn the steering wheel with the turn signal enagaged is the automatic turn signal cancel mechanism.

    The clicking from the steering column when you slow down is lock out solenoid. It prevents you from shifting into R while the car is forward motion. Manual's don't have it, but Honda feels that auto drivers would not know that you can damage the transmission by shifting into Reverse while in forward motion. Or perhaps there has been an incident that resulted in litigation, hence the lock out solenoid.
  • eroc69eroc69 Member Posts: 56
    I have an appointment next week to replace the driver seat track. Lets hope that fixes the rocking motion ive experienced for a few years..
  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    thank you for the explanation. I got the same answers from other owners on other CRV sites. I am glad it's not an issue I need to fix, but I am dissapointed also that Honda couldn't figure out a more silent mechanism for the lock out solenoid and signal cancellation. I drove many cars so far, but NONE of them had so many clicks in the steering wheel. IMO, this sound like a cheap thing not worthing the name of Honda
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    thank you for the explanation. I got the same answers from other owners on other CRV sites. I am glad it's not an issue I need to fix, but I am dissapointed also that Honda couldn't figure out a more silent mechanism for the lock out solenoid and signal cancellation. I drove many cars so far, but NONE of them had so many clicks in the steering wheel. IMO, this sound like a cheap thing not worthing the name of Honda

    You are welcome.

    The noises will subside as the parts wear in/out with time and use. For now, just crank up the radio... :)

    Honda has never been known to be a quiet vehicle. Toyota and Buick are, but not Honda. The intent is for the driver to be an active participant in driving, instead of the casual spectator. Some like that, some don't. Tha is why we have many varieties...
  • zipalotzipalot Member Posts: 3
    I am installing a trailer hitch and need to remove the trim panel to install the wiring. Has anyone done this already and can give me some advice on how to remove the trim panel on the drivers side rear cargo area. The instruction that came with the wiring harness leave a lot to be desired
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Member Posts: 196
    Go to collegehillshonda.com and click on the installation instructions.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Dragging pads will wear things out prematurely also. I found out the hard way after replacing pads every 6 months. There was a build up of corrosion on the caliper bracket which was wedging the pads so they wouldn't slide anymore. The heat damaged the rotors as well. It was hard to find because it was underneath the metal shims the pads slide on.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Dragging pads will wear things out prematurely also. I found out the hard way after replacing pads every 6 months. There was a build up of corrosion on the caliper bracket which was wedging the pads so they wouldn't slide anymore. The heat damaged the rotors as well. It was hard to find because it was underneath the metal shims the pads slide on.

    My right rear sliders froze last spring after winter season. Honda recommends lubricating all the moving parts with Molykote-77 for people in the snow areas.

    I bought a tub of Molykote-77 for like $4 from Honda. It has enough grease to do thousands of cars.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    One of light on one of the three dials on my 04 CRV blew out. It is the one that adjust the fan speed, so it is tough to see at night and looks kind of ridiculous with the other two dials lit. It looks like you would just pop the piece off with a small screwdriver.

    Is that how it is done.

    thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    One of light on one of the three dials on my 04 CRV blew out. It is the one that adjust the fan speed, so it is tough to see at night and looks kind of ridiculous with the other two dials lit. It looks like you would just pop the piece off with a small screwdriver.

    Is that how it is done.

    thanks

    You reach it from the back of the HVAC controller unit. Remove the radio following Sub, XM, or Changer installation instructions on www.handa-accessories.com (site sponsor) then remove the HVAC controller. The bulbs are mounted on the back of the PCB.

    If you think you are going to be doing a lot of DIY on this vehicle, invest in a Helms manual.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    Few days ago, while driving 70mph on highway, I drove with the left wheels over a large piece of an exploded truck tire that I couldn’t see it in time due to the traffic.
    Impact was though. After a minute I felt that car is acting like one of its tires blew out. I stopped on the shoulder and checked the underneath of the CRV and its tires, but nothing wrong. I was able to continue driving home, where I did a thoroughly check and still could not find any “visible” signs of the impact. Next day, soon as I was on the highway driving 70mph, the CRV started to act the same way. No vibration, just a loud wobbling sound, like driving with a flat tire. I slow down to 55 mph, continuing driving, and after a minute the wobbling disappeared. I accelerated back to 70-75 mph, and everything was OK, cruising at 75-80 mpg for an hour.
    Yesterday, soon as I was on the highway, I had the same problem at70 mph. Now that I cannot see any visible damage, I am thinking that around 70 mph speed one of the tires had been internally damaged on the impact and is getting into the wobbling resonance/vibration mode. But still…why is this disappearing soon as I slow down, and does not reoccur when driving high speeds again?
    Tires are Kumho, in good condition, drove with them since I’ve purchased the car, same highway, same speed , tire pressure 30, never had a problem. It all started after that impact with the piece of tire.
    I find it pretty odd with all the logicality I’m coming up…
    Please advise if you could.
    Thanks in advance,
    Dan
    PS My CRV is a 2005 , 2WD, 14K miles.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Have your tires spun balanced...you'll probably see one of the left ones wobbling with a bent rim. Another way to check for one that is really wobbling, is to have someone drive your vehicle down the interstate. You follow in another vehicle, and sight up and down the sides as you follow behind and around. You'll probably be able to see which tire is causing the wobble.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Member Posts: 158
    shouldn't a bent rim producing wobbling every / all the times I am driving at higher then 70 mph?
    in my case it only happens the first time I am reaching 70 on highway.
    thanks for your input, anyway
    dan
  • phisherphisher Member Posts: 175
    Our Accord had a dent on the inside of the steel rim and it caused the steering wheel to shake at higher speeds but not at lower speeds. Brought it in to my local tire shop and they pulled the tire off the rim and you could see the damage clear as day. I don't know why my wheel didn't wobble at lower speeds but your story sound alot like what I experienced. BTW the damage to our rim was also caused by hitting something on the road also.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles