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Comments
One way you could help determine what is wrong, is to run a fused wire from the primary and secondary of the solenoid (relay) into the vehicle, and be ready with your voltmeter. When it doesn't start, you measure the voltage on the primary...which you should have 13volts trying to pick the solenoid. If you don't have 13 volts, then you know the problem is back upstream toward the key switch or computer (don't know the actual circuit for that vehicle).
If you DO have the 13 volts, then that should energize the solenoid which should then put 13volts on the secondary (which is connected to the starter motor winding). If you have 13 volts and the motor isn't spinning, then you know the starter motor is bad. If you don't have 13 volts, then you know the solenoid is bad.
As an EE this is something I could do in my vehicle and figure out pretty quickly what is wrong. Unless you have good electrical skills, I wouldn't try it. If you hang some fused wires on, obviously disconnect the battery while you are making the starter connections because that is is 'hot', with a big thick wire directly to the battery. I think you are just going to have to tough it out with the dealership. If they can't see it fail, it's hard to troubleshoot...and their only option may be to throw parts at it.
Given time, this intermittent problem will probably become worse and then they'll have a better chance of catching it while it is failing. Unfortunately, this also means you are stuck somewhere.
Could be bad starter, bad solenoid, loose connection of batter-starter cable, loose connector on solenoid primary, bad key switch, and possibly something else which one would have to look at your electrical schematics to see if they have anything else in the circuit (like an engine immobilizer, security system, etc).
That gives me an idea, you might want to try using the other key.
A) Honda's spec is 1 qt. of oil loss per 1000 miles. If you are burning 1.5 qts per 800 miles you are over the spec.
You should only purchase manufacturer backed extended warranties.
C) There are at least cases where CR-V engine was missning an oil control ring from the factory. One was covered by Honda, since the tear down was done at the dealer. the other was not covered, because the guy tore it down him self.
Have you had the CR-V since day one, or did you purchase it used? If you had it since new, has it ever burned oil?
If you bought it used, then try to find the maintenance records.
What kind of oil (weight, brand...) are you using?
When you trade in vehicles, they don't just disappear, someone buys them. So, then in 3 months another person will come here and ask the same question. What has been solved?
I agree, trading it in just move the problem somewhere else, but in this case (with the dealership stonewalling the repair), he either is stuck with this vehicle himself....or he trades it back to the dealership where he bought it. Why should he have to live with the problem this long? Life is too short, dump it back on the dealers lap and move on.
As a trade, the dealership could:
a.) admit there is a problem and give less than average $$ tradein, in which case I'd be asking them to fix it for me under extended warranty first....so I get the average $$
b.) verbally stick to their position that there is nothing wrong with it, give average $$ tradein, fix it behind the scenes, put it on their lot to sell.....no harm to anyone.
c.) really believe that their is nothing wrong with the vehicle, give average $$ tradein, put it on their lot to sell to some unsuspecting buyer......their reputation now on the line with a 2nd consumer.
Current owner is really caught between a rock and hardplace. The longer he waits to get rid of it, the worse off he is. Unless he is willing to pay to have some independent shop tear it down, document the problem, fix the problem, and then sue the dealership & mfg....he has no reasonable alternative but to dump it.
If this was your car and you were in this position, you'd do what? Continue to invest/spend/waste more time dancing with the dealer?
Personally, I'm out of there. I've got many more important issues consuming my cycles than worrying forever about a hunk of metal.
As to the Tribeca having all the bells and whistles for "nearly the same price," the critic is math challenged. The 5-seat Tribeca starts at $29,995, while the CR-V (4wd) is $21,800. Tribeca's bells and whistles cost 38% more.
By 10k it was repeatable so i stopped by the honda dealer and showed them (took 4 turns of key to reproduce the problem). They replaced the starter and it has not had a problem since.
They called about 30 minutes in, and said that I needed new brake pads, front and rear. That isn't surprising, since I'm on the originals.. They quoted $300 +tax for the job. I graciously declined...
So..checked around a few places..
$270 +tax @ local tire dealer
$180 +tax @ CarX (not a real complete quote, though)
$285 +tax @ my local tire guy
Stopped by Advance Auto Parts.. Their top of the line pads (Bendix Ceramic) Front and rear.. total = $70 +tax
What to do, what to do?
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We even have a handy guide about doing the fronts. Take notes and you can write the guide for the rears, lol.
Next gather all of the tools that you will need. In addition to the aforementioned pads, you'll need a tire iron, a jack, two jack stands, and a socket set."
Can you show up at my house, next Saturday... with all of this stuff?
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are you always using the same set of keys?
called Portfolio. But I can't find any info on it on
the Web. Anyone heard of Portfolio ?
They have, Plan P, A, B, CA, CB.
Supposedly since 1990..
:confuse:
First Extended Warranty Corp.
P.O. Box 130745
Dallas, TX 75313
Check out the Extended Warranties discussion here too.
it may require a new bulb from the parts counter. should be cheap. here' directions for an accord, but i think crv or accord or odyssey, it's the same:
http://hadriver.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6634
I see no reason to have any kind of 'loyalty' towards the people who knowingly sold me a car with this design flaw. (They sometimes claim it is not a common problem ... but the 2007 air compressor has been re-designed... if it wasn't a problem, why fix it?)
You can call the service dept at your dealership with the VIN. They can tell you the code. You can also look at the service invoice from the last time the car was at the dealership. The code is usually in the area where your VIN and other numbers are listed.
If the car was purchased new, sometimes the dealership will give you a card with the 5-digid code with the manuel.
Honda Radio Codes
If she bought it new, the code is on a credit sized platic card. The OWNER's MANUAL specifically says to write the code on one of the pages where there is spot for it. Just in case the card is lost. Also, Honda Owner's Link website has a spot for one to store their radio code.
If all other suggestions don't work, you need to get the radio serial number, which is on the back of the radio.
You will need to remove the radio, jot down the serial number, give it to the dealer, with proof of ownership and they will be able to get the code from Honda Corporate in a day or sooner.
Good luck.
SOURCE:
Honda Service News May 2003
TITLE:
Electronically Retrieving Audio Unit Serial Numbers
APPLIES TO:
2001-03 Accord, 2001-03 Civic, 2002-03 CR-V 2003 Element, 2002-03 Odyssey, 2003 Pilot, 2003 S2000 (See SN030510 for specific model applicability).
SERVICE TIP:
If an audio unit with theft protection is disconnected from electrical power, you must enter a unique code number into the unit or it
doesn't work. This code and the audio unit's serial number are listed on the anti-theft ID card that comes with the vehicle. If this card is lost, you must get the code number from the Interactive Network (iN). In order to do that , you need to get the audio unit serial number. Some Honda models let you do that electronically. Here's how:
All Honda models with electronically retrievable audio unit serial numbers*(except 2003 Accord with navigation system)
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Turn on the audio unit, and make sure you see COdE in the display. If you don't see this message, remove the backup fuse for1 minute , and then go back to step 1.
3. Turn off the audio unit.
4. Press and hold the 1 and 6 preset buttons, then turn on the audio unit. The display toggles between two screens. The first screen displays a U and the first four digits of the serial number (for example, U2200 ). The second screen displays an L and the last four digits of the serial number (for example, L0055 ). Ignore the U and L , and write down all eight digits. Then go to step 5.
5. Enter the eight-digit serial number into iN to get the anti-theft code. From the main screen, click on Service .
-Click on Accessories .
-Click on Anti-Theft Code Inq .
-From the Anti-Theft Code Inquiry screen, select the product from the Product pulldown menu , enter the eight-digit serial number in the Serial Number box, and click Submit .
6. Enter the anti-theft code into the audio unit. Refer to the appropriate owner's manual for details.
2003 Accord with navigation system
1. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I).
2. Turn on the audio unit, and make sure you see COdE in the upper display. If you don't see this message, remove the backup fuse for 1 minute , and then go back to step 1.
3. Turn off the audio unit.
4. Press and hold the top halves of the SEEK/SKIP and CH/DISC bars, and then press and release the PWR/VOL knob. The display toggles between two screens. The first screen displays a U and the first four digits of the serial number (for example, U2200 ). The second screen displays an L and the last four digits of the serial number (for example, L0055 ). Ignore the U and L , and write down all eight digits. Then go to step 5.
5. Enter the eight-digit serial number into iN to get the anti-theft code.
-From the main screen, click on Service .
-Click on Accessories .
-Click on Anti-Theft Code Inq . From the Anti-Theft Code Inquiry screen, select the product from the Product pulldown menu , enter the eight-digit serial number in the Serial Number box, and click Submit .
6. Use the TUNE knob to enter the anti-theft code into the audio unit. When you turn the knob, COdE disappears, and a single digit is displayed. Turn the knob left or right to select each of the five digits of the audio code. When you press the TUNE knob, the system beeps, and accepts each digit as it spells out COdE on the display.
* Refer to the article "Which Honda Models Have Electronically Retrievable Audio Unit S/N's" in SN030510 for a complete list of the models.
If you still have a problem take it back to the mechanic it might be a timing problem.