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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    one easy and cheap thing to try before going legal: find the PCV valve and remove it. shake it back and forth, if you hear nothing, replace it. perhaps you have a stuck PCV valve.
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Member Posts: 196
    You can buy a new CR-V. It will come with a log book and you won't have to do any 2nd maintenance.
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    does anyone else have a problem with the starter? I turn the key...dead...turn again..starts...I have been back and forth to dealer 6 times..they can not get it to happen when it is there..I have asked that they keep the car longer than a day or 2..because it does happen. It happened again July 16, then the 18th and now today. Anyone have any ideas how to fix this once and for all????
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It's a new car, so you are kinda stuck taking it back to the dealer each time to fix.

    One way you could help determine what is wrong, is to run a fused wire from the primary and secondary of the solenoid (relay) into the vehicle, and be ready with your voltmeter. When it doesn't start, you measure the voltage on the primary...which you should have 13volts trying to pick the solenoid. If you don't have 13 volts, then you know the problem is back upstream toward the key switch or computer (don't know the actual circuit for that vehicle).

    If you DO have the 13 volts, then that should energize the solenoid which should then put 13volts on the secondary (which is connected to the starter motor winding). If you have 13 volts and the motor isn't spinning, then you know the starter motor is bad. If you don't have 13 volts, then you know the solenoid is bad.

    As an EE this is something I could do in my vehicle and figure out pretty quickly what is wrong. Unless you have good electrical skills, I wouldn't try it. If you hang some fused wires on, obviously disconnect the battery while you are making the starter connections because that is is 'hot', with a big thick wire directly to the battery. I think you are just going to have to tough it out with the dealership. If they can't see it fail, it's hard to troubleshoot...and their only option may be to throw parts at it.

    Given time, this intermittent problem will probably become worse and then they'll have a better chance of catching it while it is failing. Unfortunately, this also means you are stuck somewhere.

    Could be bad starter, bad solenoid, loose connection of batter-starter cable, loose connector on solenoid primary, bad key switch, and possibly something else which one would have to look at your electrical schematics to see if they have anything else in the circuit (like an engine immobilizer, security system, etc).

    That gives me an idea, you might want to try using the other key.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    If your exhaust is blue then it is definitely burning oil. Maybe have a compression test on the engine to see if bad rings are the culprit. Other thing the test should show is if your valves are burnt or leaking. Valve jobs are cheaper than scrapping the vehicle if that's all that it needs. Of course there is a slight possibility that the oil filter was not installed correctly. Hence the recall on the later models a few years ago. Good luck with the dealer.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I posted a similar message before.My 2003 CRV is burning 1 and 1/2 quarts of oil in about 800 miles.After an oil change and 800 miles of normal driving the oil is dark grayish black and down 1-1/2 quarts.The vehicle has 48000 miles on it.The Honda dealership where I purchased this vehicle and seven other vehicles say that this is perfectly normal.With the initial purchase I purchased an extended warranty for 7 years or 100,000 miles from the dealership for $1400.This vendor has since went bankrupt but the dealership has stated that they will honor the warranty on a case by case basis.It seems that they recognize a serious expensive problem and choose to ignore it.The national Honda help line has concurred with the dealership in stating that the oil consumption is normal.My son is an attorney and advises that I should get the problem independently diagnosed and repaired pay for the repairs myself and then sue the dealership in small-claims court to recover my expenditures.Any thoughts on the cause of the oil consumption or the suggested approach to recover my outlay.As an additional statement I have not burned one drop of oil in my seven previous Hondas.

    A) Honda's spec is 1 qt. of oil loss per 1000 miles. If you are burning 1.5 qts per 800 miles you are over the spec.

    B) You should only purchase manufacturer backed extended warranties.

    C) There are at least cases where CR-V engine was missning an oil control ring from the factory. One was covered by Honda, since the tear down was done at the dealer. the other was not covered, because the guy tore it down him self.

    Have you had the CR-V since day one, or did you purchase it used? If you had it since new, has it ever burned oil?

    If you bought it used, then try to find the maintenance records.

    What kind of oil (weight, brand...) are you using?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Just trade it in at that dealership, and buy a new vehicle.

    When you trade in vehicles, they don't just disappear, someone buys them. So, then in 3 months another person will come here and ask the same question. What has been solved?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You and I both know, that there is something wrong with that vehicle that it is burning that much oil for a new car. The dealership on the other hand, doesn't think so. Since it's been doing it for a while and during both the warranty and extended warranty period, the right thing to do is for the dealer to tear it apart to see what is wrong, and fix it.

    I agree, trading it in just move the problem somewhere else, but in this case (with the dealership stonewalling the repair), he either is stuck with this vehicle himself....or he trades it back to the dealership where he bought it. Why should he have to live with the problem this long? Life is too short, dump it back on the dealers lap and move on.

    As a trade, the dealership could:
    a.) admit there is a problem and give less than average $$ tradein, in which case I'd be asking them to fix it for me under extended warranty first....so I get the average $$

    b.) verbally stick to their position that there is nothing wrong with it, give average $$ tradein, fix it behind the scenes, put it on their lot to sell.....no harm to anyone.

    c.) really believe that their is nothing wrong with the vehicle, give average $$ tradein, put it on their lot to sell to some unsuspecting buyer......their reputation now on the line with a 2nd consumer.

    Current owner is really caught between a rock and hardplace. The longer he waits to get rid of it, the worse off he is. Unless he is willing to pay to have some independent shop tear it down, document the problem, fix the problem, and then sue the dealership & mfg....he has no reasonable alternative but to dump it.

    If this was your car and you were in this position, you'd do what? Continue to invest/spend/waste more time dancing with the dealer?

    Personally, I'm out of there. I've got many more important issues consuming my cycles than worrying forever about a hunk of metal.
  • thisisitthisisit Member Posts: 1
    Karen, I just test drove the Honda CR-V and I cannot believe the cheesy construction of this vehicle. Did you try to raise & lower the seat? OMG it's like a car jack - jack it up...jack it down - cheap cheap cheap. I expected so much more from Honda and was VERY disappointed. I don't know where Edmunds heads were when they rated this. :P Check out the 2008 Subaru Tribeca. All the bells and whistles at nearly the same price.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Of course, trading it in will allow the dealer to re-sell as a "certified used car." Those sometimes carry a 100,000 mile warranty. ;)
  • phisherphisher Member Posts: 175
    I don't know about you but I am the only driver of my CRV and I never have to adjust the height of the seat after I did it the first time. All of the cars/trucks I owned previous to this didn't even have a height adjustment. I bought my honda for reliability not its interior design.
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    The critic is right, the CR-V isn't plush. But, like you, I find the seats comfortable.

    As to the Tribeca having all the bells and whistles for "nearly the same price," the critic is math challenged. The 5-seat Tribeca starts at $29,995, while the CR-V (4wd) is $21,800. Tribeca's bells and whistles cost 38% more.
  • v07v07 Member Posts: 2
    My starter had the same problems from about 4k miles. I notified the dealer during two maintenance visits but they could not replicate the problem.
    By 10k it was repeatable so i stopped by the honda dealer and showed them (took 4 turns of key to reproduce the problem). They replaced the starter and it has not had a problem since.
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    Unfortunately for me, they DID already replace the starter..so that is not it. I am so frustrated by this
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    Well, it did it AGAIN today...turn the key...dead..turn again..starts
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,221
    Just did this today at the dealer.

    They called about 30 minutes in, and said that I needed new brake pads, front and rear. That isn't surprising, since I'm on the originals.. They quoted $300 +tax for the job. I graciously declined...

    So..checked around a few places..

    $270 +tax @ local tire dealer
    $180 +tax @ CarX (not a real complete quote, though)
    $285 +tax @ my local tire guy

    Stopped by Advance Auto Parts.. Their top of the line pads (Bendix Ceramic) Front and rear.. total = $70 +tax

    What to do, what to do?

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  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Do it yourself of course. :P

    We even have a handy guide about doing the fronts. Take notes and you can write the guide for the rears, lol.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    immobilizer issue. keyswitch issue. main relay issue. starter... '07... bring it in.
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    Have you had an issue too? What do I tell the service mgr?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,221
    "Step 3: Gather the necessary tools.
    Next gather all of the tools that you will need. In addition to the aforementioned pads, you'll need a tire iron, a jack, two jack stands, and a socket set."


    Can you show up at my house, next Saturday... with all of this stuff? :)

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  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    no i dont own an '07 CRV. however, if I had a CRV, that's what I'd suspect.

    are you always using the same set of keys?
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    I was..but I just changed to the other key on the advice of another person...so as of yesterday I am using the other key..will see if it happens with this key.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    One thing to note: There are two wire springs for each of the front pads which are not included with the aftermarket. Make sure to save those to use over. Also a good idea to put new grease on the caliper pins to avoid sticking later on. Have fun. :shades:
  • gjandrews35gjandrews35 Member Posts: 2
    My local dealer is selling an Extended Vehicle Warranty
    called Portfolio. But I can't find any info on it on
    the Web. Anyone heard of Portfolio ?
    They have, Plan P, A, B, CA, CB.
    Supposedly since 1990..

    :confuse:
  • gjandrews35gjandrews35 Member Posts: 2
    Some more info I rcvd..
    First Extended Warranty Corp.
    P.O. Box 130745
    Dallas, TX 75313
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You'll get more search engine hits by searching for "First Extended Service Corporation" - looks to me like they are the ones offering the Portfolio package. (ah, you're on it, I see).

    Check out the Extended Warranties discussion here too.
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    I have a 2000 CR-V That needs a tune-up. Local mechanic quoted $250. plugs,wires,air filter,set timing,etc. It has 102k and this will be the first tune-up its had. Is this a reasonable price? Or,would the dealer be less expensive? :confuse:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what we think the 100k service should cost in your zip code.
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    Thanks Steve. Excellent resource
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    You're also right at the time for the timing belt change, which is 7 yrs/105K miles, should cost $500-$600 including changing the water pump and accessory belts. Also, you're way over due on things like the air filter and spark plugs. Have you checked your owner's manual for maintenance items?
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    I know the air filter is included if not i can replac eit myself. The car gets its timing belt and water pump replaced next week. Thanks
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    Dash clock doesn't work on 2000 CR-V. I checked the manual and don't see a fuse for the clock. I assume the clock is gone west. Anybody have any suggestions? Thanks
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    you might try rapping on the dash once. it might be a loose bulb.

    it may require a new bulb from the parts counter. should be cheap. here' directions for an accord, but i think crv or accord or odyssey, it's the same:
    http://hadriver.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6634
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    Thanks! I'll check it out.
  • patrickdiegopatrickdiego Member Posts: 1
    I agree that this shouldn't happen ... especially since this was the number one complaint about CR-V's they KNEW and didn't change the design for three years. They sold me one of these 'time-bombs' in 2004. Am still negotiating with them for partial payment of my $2400 repair bill. They say customer loyalty is a factor in whether they will pay anything or not. I bought 2 Hondas from the same dealer... but they said I should have had all my work done (above market cost) at the dealership too. Sounds more like a protection racket or blackmail than anything else...
    I see no reason to have any kind of 'loyalty' towards the people who knowingly sold me a car with this design flaw. (They sometimes claim it is not a common problem ... but the 2007 air compressor has been re-designed... if it wasn't a problem, why fix it?)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the CR-V AC Compressor Issues discussion too.
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    seems my daughter has lost the audio code to her car as a result of replacing the battery. Anyone know how to get the code? Thanks
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    This happens all the time...

    You can call the service dept at your dealership with the VIN. They can tell you the code. You can also look at the service invoice from the last time the car was at the dealership. The code is usually in the area where your VIN and other numbers are listed.

    If the car was purchased new, sometimes the dealership will give you a card with the 5-digid code with the manuel.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check the glove box too:

    Honda Radio Codes
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    Thanks. I'll check out the dealer and glove box.
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    Thanks. I'll check old invoices to
  • gc4autogc4auto Member Posts: 34
    i heard that you should change oil more often when you are breaking in your new car. is that true ?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    seems my daughter has lost the audio code to her car as a result of replacing the battery. Anyone know how to get the code? Thanks

    If she bought it new, the code is on a credit sized platic card. The OWNER's MANUAL specifically says to write the code on one of the pages where there is spot for it. Just in case the card is lost. Also, Honda Owner's Link website has a spot for one to store their radio code.

    If all other suggestions don't work, you need to get the radio serial number, which is on the back of the radio.

    You will need to remove the radio, jot down the serial number, give it to the dealer, with proof of ownership and they will be able to get the code from Honda Corporate in a day or sooner.

    Good luck.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Whoever told you that is an idiot. Follow what your owner's manual says.
  • jlmaxjlmax Member Posts: 4
    Hi all - We just purchased an 01 crv. My wife loves it and it seems to be a great value (80k-$8500 with lots of accessories). Anyone know what might cause a low rumble from the tires or rear when making sharp-low speed turns? Is it the all-wheel drive? Thanks in advance. Jonas
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You might want to do a search in the forums. I believe I read a while ago that others had this problem, and had to change out the fluid in the rear differential. I thought it was on new vehicles though, so not sure if the same problem that you have on a 2001. Occurring at the sharpest of turns, is when the differential has to slip the most (outside wheel goes further than inside wheel).
  • jlmaxjlmax Member Posts: 4
    Thanks - yeah it sounds like a change of the oil in the rear differential is in order.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    There is a way to retrieve the serial number without removing the radio. Here is the bulletin:

    SOURCE:
    Honda Service News May 2003

    TITLE:
    Electronically Retrieving Audio Unit Serial Numbers

    APPLIES TO:
    2001-03 Accord, 2001-03 Civic, 2002-03 CR-V 2003 Element, 2002-03 Odyssey, 2003 Pilot, 2003 S2000 (See SN030510 for specific model applicability).

    SERVICE TIP:
    If an audio unit with theft protection is disconnected from electrical power, you must enter a unique code number into the unit or it
    doesn't work. This code and the audio unit's serial number are listed on the anti-theft ID card that comes with the vehicle. If this card is lost, you must get the code number from the Interactive Network (iN). In order to do that , you need to get the audio unit serial number. Some Honda models let you do that electronically. Here's how:

    All Honda models with electronically retrievable audio unit serial numbers*(except 2003 Accord with navigation system)

    1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

    2. Turn on the audio unit, and make sure you see COdE in the display. If you don't see this message, remove the backup fuse for1 minute , and then go back to step 1.

    3. Turn off the audio unit.

    4. Press and hold the 1 and 6 preset buttons, then turn on the audio unit. The display toggles between two screens. The first screen displays a U and the first four digits of the serial number (for example, U2200 ). The second screen displays an L and the last four digits of the serial number (for example, L0055 ). Ignore the U and L , and write down all eight digits. Then go to step 5.

    5. Enter the eight-digit serial number into iN to get the anti-theft code. From the main screen, click on Service .

    -Click on Accessories .

    -Click on Anti-Theft Code Inq .

    -From the Anti-Theft Code Inquiry screen, select the product from the Product pulldown menu , enter the eight-digit serial number in the Serial Number box, and click Submit .

    6. Enter the anti-theft code into the audio unit. Refer to the appropriate owner's manual for details.

    2003 Accord with navigation system

    1. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I).

    2. Turn on the audio unit, and make sure you see COdE in the upper display. If you don't see this message, remove the backup fuse for 1 minute , and then go back to step 1.

    3. Turn off the audio unit.

    4. Press and hold the top halves of the SEEK/SKIP and CH/DISC bars, and then press and release the PWR/VOL knob. The display toggles between two screens. The first screen displays a U and the first four digits of the serial number (for example, U2200 ). The second screen displays an L and the last four digits of the serial number (for example, L0055 ). Ignore the U and L , and write down all eight digits. Then go to step 5.

    5. Enter the eight-digit serial number into iN to get the anti-theft code.

    -From the main screen, click on Service .

    -Click on Accessories .

    -Click on Anti-Theft Code Inq . From the Anti-Theft Code Inquiry screen, select the product from the Product pulldown menu , enter the eight-digit serial number in the Serial Number box, and click Submit .

    6. Use the TUNE knob to enter the anti-theft code into the audio unit. When you turn the knob, COdE disappears, and a single digit is displayed. Turn the knob left or right to select each of the five digits of the audio code. When you press the TUNE knob, the system beeps, and accepts each digit as it spells out COdE on the display.

    * Refer to the article "Which Honda Models Have Electronically Retrievable Audio Unit S/N's" in SN030510 for a complete list of the models.
  • grampy1grampy1 Member Posts: 140
    I disconnected the battery cables on a 2000 CR-V to clean the cables and terminals a couple days ago along with changing the timing belt,now the car doesn't seem to run like it did before. Does it take a couple days for the computer to re-program itself? I had a mechanic do the timing belt.
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Member Posts: 196
    It may take several days. Turn on the ignition switch without starting the engine you should see the indicators like oil pressure, charging sys. etc. come on if the computer is set.
    If you still have a problem take it back to the mechanic it might be a timing problem.
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