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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • illcarillcar Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I usually use orange colored windshield fluid that is supposed to not freeze till -40F or something. But last week when the windchill was about -10F, my windshield fluid froze. It's 2008 CR-V. Anyone with same experience?
  • yankeefan2yankeefan2 Member Posts: 53
    There is only one filter. You might have to question the honesty of your shop guy,

    I use three places

    Bernard Parts, Handa Accessories & Honda Auto Parts, Use the one with the Cheepest Price
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    But last week when the windchill was about -10F, my windshield fluid froze.

    I assume you meant that it froze after spraying it onto your windshield. Typically, the "washer fluid" is a mixture of water and some form of alcohol which tends to lower the freezing point. It will remain liquid for temperatures well below the freezing point of water - as long as it's in a closed container.

    Wind will cause the very thin layer of the fluid on your windshield to evaporate quite quickly, particularly the alcohol component. This causes the remaining fluid, now mostly water, to get much colder. Unless your windshield has been warmed up (from the inside), you're left with supercooled water and it instantly leaves a thin film of ice on your windshield.

    "Preheating" your windshield may help.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • andriesandries Member Posts: 37
    2006 crv makes a thumping noise underneath on rough roads.Anyone else?? I think trans mounting

    Crv on bad washboard makes terrible sound underneath towards back of car. Has dealership confused. I thought muffler hangers, now wondering if it is not the trans mounting rubbers wore out. New shocks have been put on.
  • defieldingdefielding Member Posts: 35
    I own 2 '99 CRVs (one with a manual tranny, one with an automatic). Both of them acted like the ignition key was suddenly turned off as I was travelling down the road.at around the same mileage (160,000 km or around 100,000Miles). Both of them had the same simple problem I was able to diagnose at the side of the road. I played with the spark plug wires and was able to get the vehicle running. By further playing with the wires as the vehicle idled, it would affect the idle speed of the engine. Replacing the spark plug wires was the fix for each vehicle. This is a very simple fix that can be done at home. If any of you are using the original spark plug wires and your vehicles are getting up to the mileages listed above, change your wires as a maintanance item before they may leave you stranded.

    To mcdermott, You can get the tiny replacement screws for your remote car opener key fob at any eyeglass shop
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    Defielding:
    Many thanks, I'll give it a try at the eyeglass shop.
    Regards,
    Jack
  • tbtbd5tbtbd5 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 CRV has a shudder / vibration that starts while driving steady at about 45 mph. If I let off the gas it stops or accelerate it stops. It only does it at around that speed. I've changed tires , both axles, ball joints, brake pads , rotors even a broken motor mount. Three ASE mechanics have looked at it and they say my front end is tight and it should NOT shudder like it does. It has done this for several years (note all the changed parts for no reason) and nothing seems to fix it. :mad:
  • mimdapmimdap Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 CR-V with 45,000 miles. Six months ago I was told I needed to replace the serpentine belt. I did. Now during inspection I'm told I need to replace drive belt. Is that different than serpentine belt? Does it sound reasonable to need to change drive belt after 45,000 miles?
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    I have an 04 myself. There is only 1 belt on the vehicle, it's technically called the serpentine belt that drives the power steering, AC compressor, etc. I proactively replaced mine in November at 100K miles. I would not say 4 yrs is old for this belt and given that you only have 45K miles I would think you could plan to replace it within a year, no huge rush. Dealer charges $150 and takes about an hour. I don't think a local mechanic can do it for much less, maybe you could save $30 but hardly worth it. There is NO timing belt to be changed on an 04, it's a timing chain which does not need replacement.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 2004 CR-V with 45,000 miles. Six months ago I was told I needed to replace the serpentine belt. I did. Now during inspection I'm told I need to replace drive belt. Is that different than serpentine belt? Does it sound reasonable to need to change drive belt after 45,000 miles?

    If it is the same shop that replaced it last time, RUN FROM THEM LIKE THEY WERE ON FIRE. They are scam artists. Either they did not replace it last time you paid them to do that, or they just lieing about the belt now.

    Search youtube for hidden videos at Firestone shops, where they don't even touch the parts you pay them to replace.
  • 1999crv1999crv Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    I have a beautiful 1999 Honda CRV. I have had no issues but two. My clock no longer works and my automatic door locks don't work on my key fob. Now the weird thing is it is just when its warm. Freezing cold, middle of winter, no problems, I can lock and unlock using the remote. Today however weather is in the mid 60's and nada, nothing...

    Is this an issue with the fuse or am I going to have to take it to my repair person!
    Thanks a bunch
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I own 2 '99 CRVs (one with a manual tranny, one with an automatic). Both of them acted like the ignition key was suddenly turned off as I was travelling down the road.at around the same mileage (160,000 km or around 100,000Miles).

    Have the Ignition switch recall been performed?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a '96 CRV ( import) auto and i let it freeze up now the water flows out as quickly as i can put it in from the region of the bottom pulley but i can't exactly determine where.
    So how can i get the pulley nut undone to check the damage?
    The engine rotates anti clockwise and i have tried to pull the nut off clockwise but i need to jam the crank so that i can get some leverage on it.
    I do not have any specialist tools so do i need to go to a garage.
    Any tips or advice most welcome
    Regards, Salsaboy


    What did you have for coolant? It takes a lot of really cold weather to freeze 50% antifreeze (Honda branded).

    Ifoyu jus thad water in there, then you most likely broke the water pump. It is driven by the timing belt, and this is why you see drippage under the crank pulley.

    While you are at it, replacing the water pump, replace the timing belt as well. On the 96 model it was only good for 60,000 miles.
  • skanathurskanathur Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I have a Honda CRV 2002. I was driving at 35 mph and probably a ice block hit the bottom of the car.I see under the Honda CRV when looking from passenger side front door a cylindrical part ( 1 foot in length) which has a square hole and looks rusted. What is this part ?

    Thanks

    kanas
  • mjb56mjb56 Member Posts: 170
    Have any of you done a fluid change on your CR-V's rear differential? If so, how difficult is it? Any particular tricks other than changing the washer on each drain hole?
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Done this twice on my 04 with 110K miles. Not hard at all. Takes a little more that 1 Qt of the dual pump fluid from dealer so get 2 plus 2 of the crush washers. Don't substitute any other type of fluid - there is no better replacement. Honda changed to a dual pump fluid II which is better than before and lasts longer. You also need an item from an auto parts store also, it is a pump top that screws onto a oil quart size bottle (that's what the dual pump fluid comes in). Turns the quart into what's like a big bottle of hand lotion. There is a short tube with it as well. Costs like $5. You need it because you can't tip the bottle enough to fill the differential.

    A standard 1/4" racket drive fits into the square hole of the fill and drain plugs. It will be tight. Loosen the top (fill) plug first. Hate to drain the fluid then find out that you can't get the fill plug open.

    Drain the fluid, then hold the hose of the pump thing in the hole and start pumping. Refill till the fluid starts to overflow a bit - you'll know when it's topped off. That's it.
  • mjb56mjb56 Member Posts: 170
    Wow! that does sound easy. Thanks much for saving me $60. Is this new fluid supposed to last longer than the recommended 30K?
  • dagwood2dagwood2 Member Posts: 7
    I have a friend with a CRV (not sure what year at the moment) with both low beam headlights out. High beams Ok. There are two fuses and two relays in the engine compartment fuse panel, all good. (They are Left/Right not High/Low fuses and relays)

    I pulled out my multi-tester and found voltage on both hot wires at the connector, so I'm stumped. Did you find any info, here or elsewhere?

    I guess I forgot to mention that when I found voltage where it should be, I replaced both bulbs with no effect.
  • dagwood2dagwood2 Member Posts: 7
    After much searching I have found only one other post indicating the same problem and it had no replies, So.... I have a friend with a 2004? CRV. She has no low beams, high beams work fine. Expecting it to be a simple diagnosis, I checked all fuses and found two (left/right) in the Engine compartment, both good, also two relays right next to the fuses, also good. Pulled out my multi-tester and measured voltage on both power leads. Decided it must be the bulbs since I have voltage at the connector, so I replaced them, and the Low Beams are still out. :shades:

    Anyone have a similar problem, and hopefully a solution?

    Of course I did not realize this new post would end up right next to my reply to the other post, but oh, well.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    I had something similar. It turned out to be a broken stabilizer link. Part costs around $40 and a half-hour of labor to install.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    This may sound silly but are the bulbs of the correct replacement type? It's possible that the filament of the low beam is going to the hot side of the high beam, rather than to the ground when the connection is made. Maybe check to make sure the contacts are tight? Just fishing here... :confuse:
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    See my post a while back. Same thing happened to me on my 04. One night the low beams went out - same night!!! High beams fine. I found out there were two fuses, one for each so I figured it was not the fuses. Changed both bulbs and they have worked fine for weeks.

    Perhaps you put in the wrong bulbs or some how broke them as you were putting them in. You cannot touch the bulbs with your hands - use latex gloves and change them often (gets very dirty) and the frst time doing it can be tricky.

    Also check the connection to the bulb and make sure it is actually fully in. Finally make sure hte bulb is seated correctly. Not a big deal but can be tough the first time.
  • dagwood2dagwood2 Member Posts: 7
    I am a weekend mechanic (more skilled than most) who has been asked to look at a friends CRV, not a CRV owner, so I am not familiar with all of the freeze plug locations on the CRV. That said, if your coolant froze, and you are leaking now, you have one of two problems. Either you simply have a freeze plug to replace, which is easy enough except for their locations being hard to reach in the car, or you have a cracked block. Based on where you say the water is coming out, I'm sorry to say that I think a cracked block is more likely. If so, you probably have an oil pan full of water.

    As far as getting the Crank Pulley Nut off, an impact gun will usually do the trick if you can get it in the space, and in a pinch, I have even seen people (and done personally) use the starter to provide the torque. You need a place where the wrench/ratchet is obstructed (in the right direction). You place the tool on the nut/bolt and rotate it until it meets the obstruction, then give the starter a tap. Obviously you want to make sure to disconnect the ignition so it does not actually start.
  • dagwood2dagwood2 Member Posts: 7
    The lights are the correct type, for sure. I happened to be at a parts store Friday and looked at the wiring diagram. (BTW, it's a 2002, not '04)

    Oddly enough, based on the diagram, I should not have had positive voltage on either wire because honda seems to have wired them the opposite of most I've seen before. The "Hot" wire is the middle wire of the connector, and the left/right wires of the connector go to ground through the switch on the column. Of course, that confuses things even more, and I'm not 100% sure that the book is correct. I'll have to get over and take another look at it with this new information, and see if I can make sense out of it.
  • ms2112ms2112 Member Posts: 1
    My wife's cr-v is a 2001 front wheel drive ex model. We decided it was time for some maintenance/tune up on the car. Keep in mind I've worked in the repair field years ago and have done a couple frame up restorations on older cars. So replacing plugs, no problem right? Sooo i change the plugs with double platinum plugs. Two days later my wife calls and says the car is stuttering while the brakes are depressed. I change the wires cap and rotor. no improvement. Actually the symptoms get worse. Now the car is vibrating while in park and foot off the brake. I plug in the scanner and of course all I can get is a generic code. Misfire on the #4, #3,and random misfire codes. I then go for the fuel filter (110,000miles). Nothing. I performed vacuum test with a compound meter. The test came back negative for weak vacuum,sticking valves,intake leaks,blown head gasket/low compression. With 17 lbs of pressure all is good . I tested the timing and timing is dead nuts. Checked the fuel injectors for resistance and averaged 14.5 ohms per injector. Tested the injector harness es with a noid light all are receiving a signal. I opted to replace the fuel regulator with no success. So back to the Ignition system I go. Tested the coil and the resistance was off. So I replaced it and, nada. tested the ICM and that seems fine. All though the no codes came up for the charging system I tested the battery and replaced it. When I rev the engine up to 4000rpm and hold it there the check engine light goes out.
    So any suggestions would help here. I just can't understand how adding four new plugs has sent me into this nightmare. Oh yeah I also went back and changed the plugs to the oem style plugs. Thanks ms2112
  • joekinsojoekinso Member Posts: 14
    Wasn't there a previous post where the guy had the same problem with both his wife's and his CR-V? I think they were 2000 models. He changed the spark plug wires on both and the problem was solved.
  • rdtinneyrdtinney Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to remove the passenger side headlight assembly...there are 2 obvious screws on top but there is something else holding it in....do I have to remove some plastic cover shrouds to get to whatever it is.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    2005 CRV EX headlamp assembly ...

    image
  • natashaquenatashaque Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2005 CR-V, SE 4WD. It is very noisy. Is there any way to decrease this road noise? Also there is a whistle/whine noise when I step on the gas. It makes this noise without the ac on and starts get nosier at 35 mph. Does anyone know about this whine? It has been discussed on this site before but it does fit the previously mentioned below 50F problem or the ac on problem. This whine just adds to the the other noises. I am sorry I bought this SUV. My Dodge van is quieter and takes bumps much better. If anyone has any advice it would be most appreicated.
  • vikkigvikkig Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem... Between 35-45 mph, I have the same vibration / shudder...Does anyone know what it could be ? It is not the tires...
  • phisherphisher Member Posts: 175
    To reduce the road noise get new tires. I have goodyear assurance triple treads and they got rid of about 70% of the noise and handle alot better than the bidgestone dullers that came on the CRV.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    You can tell whether due to the tires by rotate the 2 rear tires to the front to see any difference.
  • mjb56mjb56 Member Posts: 170
    We've got the assurance triple treads on our 05 Vibe. Noisiest tires I've ever had on a car. We bought the Kumho Solus KR21 for our CR-V. They're extremely quiet, great in snow and ice and cost effective. Check 'em out.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My wife's cr-v is a 2001 front wheel drive ex model. We decided it was time for some maintenance/tune up on the car. Keep in mind I've worked in the repair field years ago and have done a couple frame up restorations on older cars. So replacing plugs, no problem right? Sooo i change the plugs with double platinum plugs. Two days later my wife calls and says the car is stuttering while the brakes are depressed. I change the wires cap and rotor. no improvement. Actually the symptoms get worse. Now the car is vibrating while in park and foot off the brake. I plug in the scanner and of course all I can get is a generic code. Misfire on the #4, #3,and random misfire codes. I then go for the fuel filter (110,000miles). Nothing. I performed vacuum test with a compound meter. The test came back negative for weak vacuum,sticking valves,intake leaks,blown head gasket/low compression. With 17 lbs of pressure all is good . I tested the timing and timing is dead nuts. Checked the fuel injectors for resistance and averaged 14.5 ohms per injector. Tested the injector harness es with a noid light all are receiving a signal. I opted to replace the fuel regulator with no success. So back to the Ignition system I go. Tested the coil and the resistance was off. So I replaced it and, nada. tested the ICM and that seems fine. All though the no codes came up for the charging system I tested the battery and replaced it. When I rev the engine up to 4000rpm and hold it there the check engine light goes out.
    So any suggestions would help here. I just can't understand how adding four new plugs has sent me into this nightmare. Oh yeah I also went back and changed the plugs to the oem style plugs. Thanks ms2112


    A) If you are in the US or Canada, there were no FWD CR-V EX offered for sale in 2001. Only LX came in FWD with auto only model.

    B) Use NGK or Denso plugs only.

    C) Valve lash needs to be adjusted every 30,000 miles, on the loose side.

    D) Replace tranny, and rear differential fluids with Honda ATF and Honda Dual pump fluids only, preferrably within 30,000 mile intervals.

    E) Timing belt on that vehicle needs to be replaced at 105,000, I believe. While at it, replace the water pump as well.

    F) Use Honda Type 2 coolant.

    I think, this is it.
  • mike628mike628 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    At about 60mph (even sooner lately) my CRV starts to vibrate .The problem is it comes and goes. It seems to be getting worse. But here is the problem: eventually it goes away! If I put on the brakes while its happening ,I can feel the rotors pulsating,but when the CRV is not vibrating, and I put the brakes on,there is no pulsing.I had the differencial fluid changed about 4 months ago for the documented steering noise.
    One interesting thing is that I had the tires balanced 3 weeks ago and then went for a 100 mile drive and there was no problem. But within a couple days it was back.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks
    Mike
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Sound slike you have 2 issues.

    1) your brake rotors are warped. you can have them machined, but the warpage will come back.

    The most common cause warped disk rotors on Hondas is the use of air tools to tighten the wheel bolts. It cases uneven distribution of torque and makes the rotors warp really fast. If you have a shop doing your wheels, ask them to use torque wrenches when installing wheels. Torque sticks are not precise enough. Torque should be set to 80 ft. lbs and applied in criss cross pattern.

    2) Some of the balancing weights may have come off, or the wheel got bent on one of the trips.
  • vikkigvikkig Member Posts: 3
    I just had 4 new tires put on and balanced. This weekend I changed the rear differential fluid. Still having the vibration problem. It's not as bad, but it's still there.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    Did you have the motor mount condition check out yet?
  • mike628mike628 Member Posts: 3
    No,
    This problem comes and go's. It happens almost everytime I drive, but except for the speed, I cant tell when its going to happen.
    Are there any Honda Techs listening....
    From what I've been reading this is pretty common with this vehicle, but nobody seems to have a documented cause.
    Thanks
    Mike
  • vikkigvikkig Member Posts: 3
    Well, the process of elimination failed, I pulled out of work yesterday and lost my drive shaft. Its at the shop. Guess I'm gonna end up paying out the rear to get it fixed anyway.... Thank you for the help and advice =)
  • tabcourttabcourt Member Posts: 18
    Has 150K on her and I have never changed the timing belt, water pump or any of the belts for that matter. My friends tell me I'm on borrowed time. Of course, the car's running fine and it's just hard during these economic times to just pre-emptively plunk down upwards of $700 to have the belts and pump changed. Opinions from you good folks out there?
    -Mark
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    I think there is no warning when the timing belt breaks, or water pump fails. Imgaine what needs to be replaced or repaired after above problems. It maybe 5 times $700 ... I won't waiting till not a drop of gas before I look for gas station or change the oil when the motor oil looks like tar.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    UH....your engine has a timing chain, so you're good to go.
  • tabcourttabcourt Member Posts: 18
    Pretty sure that the owner's manual says it's a belt not achain
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Gates says that only the '97 to '01 CR-V's have a belt. Gates could be wrong I suppose (they're wrong about my non-interference engine).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. :P

    So it's either shame on me or shame on your mechanic ;)

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,195
    All 2.4 litre CR-V engines since '02 have chains, not belts..

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  • tabcourttabcourt Member Posts: 18
    Thanks all. The manual is incorrect.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You can download a manual from Honda and I assume it will have updated info.

    Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Thanks all. The manual is incorrect.

    Is this the official Honda Owner's Manual?

    Or the Chilton's or Hayes shop manuals? Those are wrong about many things.

    Helms manual is the only official Honda Shop manual.
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