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Are these estimates accurate, or are the costs legit considering the labor/parts involved?
Seems very pricey to me (then again I've had alot of work done in the past year due to the mileage on the CRV, & what Honda reccommends, & it never seems inexpensive)...Kelly Blue book estimates my wifes' CRV @ approx $6500 for a trade-in; maybe we should look into trading it in sooner than later.
So in California this would be about a $1300 job.
If the flywheel needed replacing, add another $260.
So we don't know your state's labor rate, nor are we quite sure how many components are being replaced for that "quote" you got.
I'd suggest trying an independent Honda shop. Anyway, you now know the ballpark numbers.
This same Honda dealership charged us $220 for the removal of the old/rusted heat shield (on the catalytic converter), & to replace it with a new one (just the heat shield - catalytic converter okay)...Again I'm not so sure if we're overpaying, or if the costs are legit.
Either way I'm very wary of sinking in another large sum of $$$ on a vehicle that we don't plan on keeping much longer. With our 2nd child on the way I'd like to get a larger vehicle (our Ford Edge is great, but lacks cargo capacity); I like the looks of both the Odyssey, & the Sienna.
* change power steering fluid - $139
* Fuel injections system (clean due to carbon build-up) - $159
* throttle body something/clean? (says it gets gummed up) - $139
* battery is weak at 308 volts (versus recommended 410v) - suggested get new battery
I have no way of knowing how necessary any of these are right now. Would like your opinion on necessity...
Thanks much.
Ques:
1) is this common?
2) how easy is the radio to replace (I doubt both left speakers are defective at once).
3) what aftermarket (iPod) radio fits best?
thanks in advance
I've never heard of anyone replacing a clutch that continues to work well as a matter of preventative maintanance. Usually, when a clutch starts to go you have warning signs like having the friction point at the end of the stroke of the clutch peddle (or the vehicle wants to creep ahead with the clutch peddle all the way depressed). When you find the clutch engagement point changing over time you can adjust the clutch linkage a few times before replacing the clutch. 116,000 miles is not that high a mileage for these vehicles.
I can tell you from personal experience that when Honda clutches fail, they do so gradually. You'll have weeks to decide what to do next. You won't be stranded.
If you want to save money on maintenance & repairs, find a good independent mechanic. There's no reason to go back to the dealer except to have warranty work done. My CR-V hasn't been back to the dealer since I took delivery - more than 3 years ago.
I by no means am looking to replace the clutch - it works perfectly fine right now (hopefully it'll continue to do so)...I was shocked @ the quote I was given ($1900 plus tax) for a new clutch if needed, & was more or less curious if this quote was appropriate, or if it was excessive.
Over the past 12 months I've spent alot of $$$ on the recommended maintenance/new tires/new brakes...This CRV is pretty much set for the next 60,000 to 70,000 miles with 1 exception - the clutch (my only concern @ this point in time).
Since the CRV has 116,000 plus miles on it - my wife, & I don't wish to spend any more $$$ for major repairs on it anytime soon since we're looking to sell it/trade it in for a mini van this summer (2nd child on the way).
How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor: Saturday Mechanic
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor
http://cardealerforums.com/rec-autos-makers-honda/t116093-honda-civic-1999-p0135- - -oxygen-sensor-change-d16y7-story.html
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/yo9y-04-cr-v-today-p0135-code
http://blog.zhaospace.com/2008/07/replacing-o2-sensor-in-2005-honda-cr-v-lx/
Are these estimates accurate, or are the costs legit considering the labor/parts involved?
Seems very pricey to me (then again I've had alot of work done in the past year due to the mileage on the CRV, & what Honda reccommends, & it never seems inexpensive)...Kelly Blue book estimates my wifes' CRV approx $6500 for a trade-in; maybe we should look into trading it in sooner than later.
If your wife is good with the clutch and like oyu said most of the miles are highway, you have about 200,000 miles left on that factory clutch.
The only time I hear about clutch needing replacement is when kids try to do burn outs.
I had sold my old Civic with 250,000 miles and original clutch. It has over 300,000 miles on it now, and still on the original clutch.
Independant shops usually charge $600 to replace the clutch. You can get better parts prices if you buy from online Honda vendors. They sell the same OEM parts, but at a discount. Usually they are B&M Honda dealerships with internet storefronts.
If you are really insisting on replacing the clutch, might as well add the 6th gear while you have the tranny off the vehicle. It only costs $300 in parts from Acura TSX, RSX-S or Civic Si, and a knowledgeable mechanic to do it. There is just a spacer in place for the 6th gear right now.
No idea what it was, this was the dealer explanation, and in my case it was true. The smell gradually went away, and at the 6 month point there was no smell, and it never returned.
Interesting! I didn't know this. So I can add a 6th gear to my 5M '06 CR-V for approximately $300 + labor? That's reasonable, given that I'm planning to keep my car for at least another 8 years.
If she winds up with a car that out-gasses like that for six months, she's not going to be a happy camper.
A friend of ours over in Colorado got a new Forester and something - either the door gaskets or a leaky heater core - has just about given her chemical pneumonia.
On the other hand, I could save some bucks and maybe convince her to buy a used one that's had time for some of the fumes to dissipate. :shades:
The CR-V is here http://www.healthycar.org/vehicle.details.php?getrecno=2383
pretty good in comparison of all the new vehicles out there.
The forester, I can see why they aren't doing well healthwise, it had a lot more chemicals outgassing than the CR-V here's the link to the forester
http://www.healthycar.org/vehicle.details.php?getrecno=2537
and the older cars do dissipate over time, but the older ones might have more in them. I've noticed that Honda gets better over time in a current model design. but yes we could go along with your theory of "saving bucks" hehehe
Honda uses the same transmission in all the vehicles with K-series engines. Ours has a PTO shaft, but the rest just have a plug there.
If you look at the tranny blue prints in the shop manual, there is a spacer where the 6th gear would have been. Since the TSX, RSX-S and Si all come with 6 speed trannsmisison, people have been using those stock Honda parts and installing the 6th gear. It started with the Element owners (shorter final drive) and spread to the CR-V's. People report 500 RPM drop on the highway, which translates to about 3-5 mpg boost. As it is, in stock form, driven at the speed limit (65 here) I get 30 mpg. I wouldn't have minded having a 35 mpg SUV. :-)
Specifically I had said:
...Lastly, my CR-V has been needed to be jumped a few times in the past couple weeks. Yesterday I was sitting in the car with the engine off, but battery on and listening to the radio for about 30 minutes and the battery died and needed a jump. I thought this meant a weak battery which should be changed under warranty, but their battery test said it was still good (12.58V/449 CCA). So as a result, they wouldn't give me a new battery.
fussycrvowner had replied and said:
I had similar issues with my battery. It would only start after I turned the key a few times. When I got home it died completely. I measured the voltage when it wouldn't start and it was down to 10.2 volts. What it turned out to be was a bad cell which was periodically shorting out. The battery has six cells which measure around two volts apiece. Chances are that one of them may be bad and intermittently shorting out. Other possibility is to have them test the charging output of your alternator. It may be putting out low current and not keeping the battery charged. A lot of short trips will drain down the battery as well if it isn't driven enough to replenish what was used in cranking.
Well, 4+ months later, when the car died both times in one day, we decided it was time to take it back into the dealer again and they just replaced the battery under warranty. The receipt says "Open in Battery." Exact mileage at time of service was 52,610 miles.
I don't think my father has had problems since then so I'm guessing/hoping that the problem was just the battery and that's that.
So, this is my farewell to the CRV Forum.
Thanks
Mike
I'm hoping one or more of you have had this issue because I'm stumped:
Right headlamp went out. I first checked fuse, it was fine. I then pulled out bulb, it was fine. Does anyone know what else I can check without having to pull wires out? Is the wire from the fuse box to the bulb socket bad?
Thanks.
both services include the following items:
- Replace oil and filter
- Install BG MOA oil supplement (reduce friction/extend life of engine)
- Install BG Carbon Fighter 5 (prevents & removes fuel system deposits)
- Inspect drive belts
- Inspect radiator and coolant hoses
- Inspect cooling fan operation
- Inspect suspension system and mounting bolt torque
- Inspect exhaust pipes and muffler
- Inspect emissions controls for proper operation
- Inspect steering rack and tie rod ends
- Rotate Tires and inspect for wear and damage
- Set proper tire pressure
- check power steering operation
- Load test battery and clean terminals (don't really need this, just had battery replaced under warranty - posted about it a few posts up)
- Inspect brake pads and shoes for wear
- Inspect brake lines and hoses
- Inspect parking brake adjustment
- Top off windshield washer fluid
- Inspect windshield wiper blades and inserts
- Check PCV system
- Inspect vehicle lighting
- lubricate door hinges and seals
- lubricate hood hinges and latch
- clean engine compartment
- inspect drive axle boots and bands
- reset maintenance indicator
- road test vehicle
the differences in the Schedule B/45k service (that the Schedule C/60k service doesn't have) is as follows:
- Inspect automatic transmission fluid level
- Inspect valve clearance
- replace antifreeze (done so early? in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder, this wasn't done til 120,000 miles)
- inspect and clean air filter element
the differences in the Schedule C/60k service (that the Schedule B/45k service doesn't have) is as follows:
- Replace transmission fluid (again, done so early? My 2004 Accord 4 cylinder had this done at 120k miles too I believe)
- Inspect transmission linkage
- Adjust valve clearance as required (again, done so early? this was checked out at 110k miles in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder)
- replace spark plugs (again, done so early? this was checked out at 120k miles in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder)
- replace air filter element
- inspect ignition wires
- inspect distribution cap and rotor
- inspect idle speed
- inspect water pump for leaks
- inspect antifreeze level and protection
- replace brake fluid (again, done so early? in my 2004 Accord, this was done every 3 years).
- inspect antilock brake system operation
- Perform differential service (additional) (not sure what this is all about)
Any thoughts? for the 30k service on the car, I paid $20 to firestone adn for that price they did a complete vehicle inspection which I believe covered pretty much everything that was listed to be done for that service. and then the air filter & cabin air filter I ordered and installed myself. And the oil change and tire rotation I had done at the dealer using a $30 coupon. so all in all, I think I paid under $100 for everything.
Regards,
OW
Well, they were made in Britain weren't they!
I'd go back and point out in the OWNER's MANUAL that no oil additives are needed, and may void the warranty.
I would also ask them to show how they check and adjust valve clearance on a K24 engine.
I would also point out the 105,000 milelife of the spark plugs.
Let Firestone inspect the rest. Then, see what is left based on the suggested mileage milestones as per the maintenance schedule in the manual.
Save your $$$.
Regards,
OW
No problem.
I would just go by the OWNER's MANUAL's SEVERE schedule and have them to those items.
I am not sure if the OWNER's MANUAL for Gen 3 lists service items. Maintenance minder may just list the codes for items that need to be done, then look up the codes in the OWNER's MANUAL.
I would find a more honest shop to this done at, as well.