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I just bought a new CR-V EX-L Friday night and overall really like the vehicle. I test drove the vehicle before buying and everything checked out. However, the next day, a rattling noise emerged from the sunroof area, and it doesn't matter whether the sunroof is closed, open, or cracked to "vent". I've pushed on the sunroof slightly and it seems to be very sturdy, so I don't know where the rattling is coming from.
Has anyone had similar experiences? I am concerned because the sound is really distracting and not something I could deal with long-term on the car. I hope the dealer can fix it right the first time. Would love to know how it was fixed and if the problem came back.
Thanks-
Don
Yet today's modern oils are vastly improved over those of 20 years ago. For oils that meet the current "SJ" service designation, viscosity breakdown is no longer a significant problem, thanks to modern formulation technologies and viscosity enhancers. Auto manufacturers have also redesigned their engines for tighter clearances and instituted precision machining techniques that take advantage of thinner oil to deliver improved fuel economy through reduced friction.
Like the OEMs, racers have discovered that friction reductions plus precision tight clearances yield greater efficiency and more power. Racers also know that most engine wear occurs at start-up, so it's critical that engine parts receive proper lubrication as soon as possible--hence the need for an initially thinner, so-called "winter" viscosity. Today, few racers run a single-viscosity motor oil except nitro-burners. According to 76 Lubricants, most NASCAR teams use the really thin stuff during qualifying, moving up to 20W-50 during the long race (although it's rumored some teams may use the extreme cold-weather thin oils all the time, but don't want to admit to their latest performance "trick").
Synthetic oils, pioneered in the '70s by Mobil and now available from most major oil companies, take the all-season, multiviscosity approach to the outer limits. Unlike traditional mineral oils that are produced by distillation and further refining of existing crude oil stock, synthetic lubricants are made through chemical reactions. These new oils aren't synthetic or artificial in the sense that they're manufactured out of whole cloth--they still have the same natural ingredients found in "real" oil. But in a synthetic lubricant, these ingredients are recombined like a Lego set to yield synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains with desirable characteristics and uniformity not found in even the highest-quality traditional motor oils. Typically, the best synthetic oils use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids--polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics.
Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F.
Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils. In fact, synthetic oils are now available with viscosity ratings as low as 0W-30, as in Mobil 1's new Tri-Synthetic blend or Castrol Formula SLX. These oils flow more than seven times faster than a conventional 5W-30 motor oil during initial start-up, yet at normal operating temperatures act like a regular Grade 30 oil.
An 0W-30 synthetic oil is capable of pumping easily at -62 degrees F and flowing at even lower temperatures. Conventional oils are essentially frozen solid at that temperature, so there's simply no conventional equivalent to this new grade. There are 5W-30 conventional and synthetic oils, but even here, the synthetic has a real-world advantage: Mobil 1's 5W-30 will pump at -58-degrees F, compared to about -35-degrees F for a conventional oil.
Regards,
OW
its Honda CRV service manual 2007 2008 2009
link part1
link part2
link part3
Au Contraire. Synthetics do break down. But, because the molecule size distribution is more uniform (think of the bell shape distribution and 99% of the molecule sizes are within 0.5% either side of the median. They all break down at the same rate to the same size.
There are no shorter chains that break down faster and longer chains that breakdown to individual molecules longer. shorter chains, once broken down are useless, and become junk inhibiting the still functioning longer chains from performing.
Also, not all synthetics are truly synthetic oils with narrow molecule size distribution.
Most of the so called synthetics are nothing more than highly purified conventional oils. They are processed through what is called "hydrockracking" or basically steaming.
Mobil1(except for Extended Performance), Quaker state, Pennzoil, Castrol Syntec (except for 0W-40 or whichever is made in Germany), Valvoline Synthetic... are all FAUX synthetics.
Mobil1 EP, Castrol Syntec (has to say: "Made in Germany"), Royal Purple, Amsoil (don't like their sales tactics) and a few others are still true synthetics.
Since there is no price break when buying FAUX synthetics, make sure you buy true synthetic oils. Otherwise you are wasting your money.
I almost got some synthetic the other day though. NAPA was out of 5w30 and the synthetic was on sale for almost as cheap as my usual flavor. But I went to WallyWorld and got a 5 quart jug of SuperTech for under $10.
Au Contraire. Synthetics do break down. But, because the molecule size distribution is more uniform (think of the bell shape distribution and 99% of the molecule sizes are within 0.5% either side of the median. They all break down at the same rate to the same size.
My buddy that sells Amsoil told me that the molecular tails in it break within 3,000 miles too. I think you are just wasting your money putting synthetic in ordinary passenger cars to begin with.
Didn't I just say that?
The difference is how synthetics breakdown. Lets say that all of the molecules in the oil are 86 monomers long. And you lose a monomer per 200 miles.
All of the moluecules in synthetic oil will be 74 monomers long after 100 miles. The oil is still funcitonal.
In the dyno oil, some of the molecules are 150 monomers long, and some are 30 molecules long. The short ones will lose 1/3 of their monomers in 1000 miles. After prolonged use, there will be a bunch of cooked up monomers form all the short chains that have disintegrated, and a bunch of now shortened formerly long molecules trying to perform. But, because of the overwhelming number of broken down monomeric species, the long molecules won't perform.
Hope my layman's explanation gets to the point.
I agree, that if one changes the oil on the regular basis, then dyno will suffice. But, if one were to be more environmentaly concious, and wanted to generate less pollution, and smaller carbon footprint (used oil is one of them) one could use higher quality oil and prolonged service intervals to achieve such goal.
If all else fails, check the owner's manual. :shades:
Someone would have to be really foolish these days to dump the oil in their back yard.
A lot of oil changing places use used oil as heating oil in the winter. So, it just gets burned. National chains probably send it to recyclers which clean it up and make it into greases, lubricants, or other grades of oil.
Problem with a lot of DIYer is that they would not think twice about mixing the oil with antifreeze or brake fluid and then taking it to the store for recycling.
One problem I see with deposits on used oil, is the low-lives stealing oil from cars parked on the streets.
I remember a few years back when I lived in the Bronx, there was a rash of catalytic converters being cut off from high sitting vehicles. It was easy for crooks to slide under the car, cut it off with a battery powered cut off tool and be on their way in a matter of minutes. They were selling them to scrap yards.
A deposit probably would keep a bunch of it out of the landfills.
Not to mention all of the service bulletins created addressing excessive oil consumption and missing drain plugs... :P
Last week, the tire pressure light is on and i checked manual and tires, found that there is one tire has very low pressure, only 25 psi. i have added air and the light went off. But after two days the light is on again and i checked the air pressure again, it is again 25 psi. So i decided to send the car to dealers and have them checked for me.
But it is my first new car and I have no experience to deal with dealer service. I have the manufacture warranty, so does it cover the tire? do i need to pay for this service. As I understand, i should be under factory warranty, am I right?
Last week, the tire pressure light is on and i checked manual and tires, found that there is one tire has very low pressure, only 25 psi. i have added air and the light went off. But after two days the light is on again and i checked the air pressure again, it is again 25 psi. So i decided to send the car to dealers and have them checked for me.
But it is my first new car and I have no experience to deal with dealer service. I have the manufacture warranty, so does it cover the tire? do i need to pay for this service. As I understand, i should be under factory warranty, am I right?
One to take note is change oil within 12 months if your mileage is low, not high enough to trigger the MM.
I have a 2008 CR-V (which replaced a 2000) and love it. I've occasionally heard a rattle in the car, but every time it turned out to be something like a pen on the center console, or my water bottle or my purse on the backseat - nothing wrong with the car itself, even though the noise may have echoed and sounded like it was coming from somewhere else. I just touch things until I find the place that stops the rattle. (And when it's my purse, which is the most elusive, I pull over to fix it because I can't stand that noise)
Right. While tire warranties are generally separate from the car manufacturer's warranty, your dealer will honor it. Assuming the problem is a defective tire or valve stem, your dealer will take care of the problem free of charge. But if the leak is caused by a nail, that's another matter.
I have an '07 CR-V EX-L with a similar rattling (or buzzing) noise, which appears to come from the area immediately behind the sunroof, near the head lamp. When I press that area of the headliner it stops. It is not a consistant noise, but appears to come and go. It is most noticable when the vehicle is in drive gear ("D") and ideling. If I had to guess, I'd say it is a wire (or similar) within the hearliner, near the headlight.
I took it to the local Honda dealer and asked it they have ever had this complaint. Of course, they said "no." Because it's not critical, I'm reluctant to have them tear it apart to look; the vehicle will never be the same once they did that!
I would appreciate it if you'd let me know if you learn more about it!
The A/C smell could be because of high moisture if you keep it outside with all the rain lately.
Regards,
OW
Is Anzo a decent company or Am I buying myself problems?
Is it 160 psi on the "high" side or the "low" side?
Pressure could be high because someone charged it with the wrong refrigerant or the refrigerant had the wrong oil in it.
I agree, if you have no tools or knowledge, you are better off taking it to Honda and finding out what is wrong before compressor explodes and you have a $3000 repair. It may be as simple as an $80 evacuate and recharge.
Lou
If I sit with my rump all the way back, its ok. But if you scouch an inch or 2 forward, it feels like im siting on a hard lump. Seems like I sink into a depression also. Very annoying. Has anyone else have this trouble on thier leather seats?
Lou
Since you stand saving $600 on labor y doing it your self, may I suggest purchasing the official Honda manual from Helm Corporation. Also, since you already are there, might as well replace the water pump. Even though it is not worn out, it will save you time by not having to replace it 50,000 miles later.
Always feel a pressure point on my right hip pocket area. It still same even I changed the sitting cushioning underneath the fabric with the OEM Honda one ordered online from www.bernadiparts.com. Paid another $100 the auto upholstery guy to do replacement.
I brought it to the dealer and got the usual reply: "nothing wrong with the seat", "that's how it comes with". What a waste of time.
Now my only solution is put an extra sheep skin cover (bought at Costco) on top the driver seat to minimize the un-comfort. Seat is a simple thing and Honda can't make it work right, yuck.
Also had them mount some Pirelli P4 tire that I purchased on-line and do a 4 wheel alignment. Runs / rides great. Paid only $64 for the upsized 215-70-15 tires.
Problem solved!
The good thing is that w/ my tires changed at 57,650 miles (See my post here in the Honda CR-V Tires Wheels and Sensors thread), rotation doesn't need to be done anymore either.
If anyone has any other thoughts, please chime in, otherwise, I'll start doing the services between a Honda dealer and Firestone over the next few days. The parts I'm looking to purchase are honda brake fluid, honda air filter, honda cabin air filter and Honda Oil (I'm not doing synthetic in this car). I'm planning on trying and getting the price matched from the dealer to http://www.handa-accessories.com/ (I've gotten this done before). Just need to figure out how many quarts of oil I need.
I thought I'd list out the items to check out from the Edmunds.com maintenance schedule too to help make this post and my last post a one-stop summary of what to do w/ a similar CR-V around this mileage:
Replace Air filter
Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections
Inspect Brakes
Replace Cabin air filter
Inspect boots & seals
Inspect/adjust Drive belt(s)
Change Engine oil
Inspect Exhaust system
Inspect Fluid levels
Inspect Fuel lines & hoses
Lubricate Hinges, locks & latches
Check operation Lights & accessories
Replace Oil filter
Inspect/adjust Parking brake
Inspect Steering
Inspect Suspension
Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots
Rotate Wheels & tires
(I've put Rotate Wheels and Tires in italics because I'm ignoring that right now w/ the recent tire change)
I had a simila rissue, and it turned out to be loose bolts hoding the rear door lock. Open the door and look at the lock. There are 3 or 4 phillips bolts. If you have not lost them, yet, tighten them. It should fix the light problem.
I am pretty sure that 1995 honda CR-V is non-existant. I believe it first appeared in 1996 in Japan, and then as 1997 model in the US.
If the wheels have been balanced properly, check for bent rims, torn CV-joint, or bent driveshaft.
I'm thinking that's why at the 45k service by both the dealer and edmunds.com it is suggested to deal with the brake fluid. My father's 2007 CR-V is now past 62,500+ miles, but just a little over 2 years old. so I'm thinking I can ignore this for another year?
Still, I'm wondering the consequence of simply removing the cabin filters from the vehicle. I mean, if I did remove them, would I die, become incapacitated in some horrible manner, have to cope with the occasional vicious fly, bug, or man-eating mosquito inside my vehicle, or what?
Vehicle manufacturers have a tendency to insist that we simply must not do without these filters, and of course they make a very handsome profit selling us these paper things. Nonetheless, we older folks have lived and drove for many miles, many years, without paper filters in our vehicles. Thus, I'm inclined to think that simply removing the cabin filters entirely would not prove detrimental in the least.
Thoughts pro and con are invited.
Bottom line, the filter isn't expensive (if bought smart), nor does it take more than a few minutes to change. That seems like a small price to pay to breath cleaner air.
As for being the same as going for a walk without a mask, I'll agree with you when I take my walks at 75 mph!
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i intersted in car pc in HONDA CR-V,anyone knows about this unit? welcome comunicate with each other