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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    My two pennies worth: I think the filters possibly provide some protection for the heater and AC. The heater core and evaporator have cooling fins closely fit together. Too much bug and dust build up will clog the cooling spaces over time and cause the system to run hotter. Not to mention reduced air flow into the cabin.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have allergies, so I replace filters every year with either OEM or Bosch ones (HEPA).

    I also use 3M Filtrette furnace filters and use HEPA air purifiers at home.

    Filters not only protect me from pollen, but also protect the evaporator and the blower from the gunk accumulating on them and making them less effective and eventually killing them.
  • 320iguy320iguy Member Posts: 1
    yeah, you just paid for a PA state inspection that should be done in the state of your living a bout once every year or so. LOLz, hope they didn't rape you too bad!
  • roger821roger821 Member Posts: 6
    Hi everybody,

    I just had everyone's worst nightmare happen to me today, although it could have happened in a worse place than it did. I have a 1997 CR-V, well maintained and with nearly 150K miles on it. It has been running great until today. It's no longer my daily driver, but the battery is less than a year old and I've not had any problems at all. I used it today to go to Home Depot. It started up right away, and I got about 1/2 mile from my house, with it running smoothly.

    I stopped at a light, and when the light turned green, I hit the gas pedal, it went about 5 feet and then the engine just cut off. Dead as a doornail, without any mechanical noises or anything. After I got it through the intersection I was in, I tried to restart it, the engine turned normally but it just would not catch. It just acts like it ran out of gas, which I assume is the fuel system (pump/relay/filter). I had the CR-V towed home, and just tried to start it, but it just turns without starting up. I already had the ignition switch recall replaced, so it should not be that (but you never know).

    I've seen a couple of comments on this forum which talked about rotors or ignition coils. Besides the fuel system, what else could have caused this? I'm open for any root cause, especially if it's going to cost less than the fuel pump (which a Honda dealer just said is 2 labor hours at $110/per, plus a $400 part, and tax).

    Please help! Thanks...
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I am sure many people remember the CRV fires a few years ago. Some may also remember there was a class action suit brought about. It just got settled. According to the settlement:

    "Honda will deposit 500,000 into an interest bearing account monthly to compensate any uninsurable or unreimbursablemimbursible loss caused by the oil filter"

    These were 03 and 04's as I remember -
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I am sure many people remember the CRV fires a few years ago. Some may also remember there was a class action suit brought about. It just got settled. According to the settlement:

    "Honda will deposit 500,000 into an interest bearing account monthly to compensate any uninsurable or unreimbursablemimbursible loss caused by the oil filter"

    These were 03 and 04's as I remember -

    Yeah, got it in the mail too. Honda owners, all of us, get $500,000 in an escrow account to coverr un covered expenses, such as insurance deductibles and such.

    the 3 lawyers on the other hand get, $750,000 in fees and $250,000 in running expenses, for a total of $1,000,000. I think Lawyers are the only ones who win, since we are all going to pay for it with high purchase prices and Honda's unwillingness to do good will warranties.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 1997 CR-V, well maintained and with nearly 150K miles on it.

    Define "well maintained".

    When was the timing belt replaced?
    Valves adjusted?
    Cap and rotor?
    Plugs?
    Fuel filter?
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    I think Lawyers are the only ones who win, since we are all going to pay for it with high purchase prices and Honda's unwillingness to do good will warranties.
    Man, you hit that one on the head. Businesses are unwilling to to take risks due to litigation. Doctors have to cover their [non-permissible content removed] every time they see a patient. Teachers are becoming afraid of even just patting a little student on the head or back for fear of a lawsuit. No one can be honest or open any more. There seems to be something fundamentally wrong with a society and economy that has a far greater number of law schools and lawyers compared to medical schools. Now it appears the current administration attorney general is considering legal action against the CIA and military members for actions they took during the heat of combat! I truly worry where all this litigation and excess legal action is taking the country and our children's future. It has a potentially huge chilling effect on our ability to compete in the world and innovate, as well as draining off a lot of money that could be used better elsewhere. Litigation is not a free lunch, it has a very real cost to the economy and the country. Unfortunately, too many political leaders and Congressional members are lawyers, so I don't see things getting better until we've really dug a deep hole full of doo-doo.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Unfortunately, too many political leaders and Congressional members are lawyers, so I don't see things getting better until we've really dug a deep hole full of doo-doo.

    You are absolutely correct. You can see how "failed lawyers" aka politicians are approaching the current health care reform, rather than revisit the tort issue, which is the core of the problem, they are going to destroy what we have and give us a system similar to VA/Medicare/Medicaid system which has long waits and limited coverage.

    Rather than come down hard on the "ambulance" chasers, they are going about it in some illogical and convoluted way.

    When I graduated with BS in Pre-Med, I sat down and wrote down what it would have cost to become a doctor.

    Med school: the cheapest one was a SUNY Downstate for $275,000 for the whole program.
    Residency: first 3 years of my post med school life would have been 80-120 hours a week for $60,000a year.
    Post residency: I would have been lucky to land a job that paid $200,000/year, but I would have also had to carry my owm MALPRACTICE INSURANCE at $125,000/year.

    So, between the $275,000 school loan and $125,000 I would have been no better than doing what I do now....

    Needless to say, I am not a doctor, and I am happy about the descision I made more than 10 years ago.
  • terryp1terryp1 Member Posts: 55
    If you want to change your political oil, please put a bucket underneath and catch it rather than dump it on the floor.
    This forum is about cars.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    This forum is about cars.

    Yes, it is! Let's try harder to stick to the topic. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I think Lawyers are the only ones who win, since we are all going to pay for it with high purchase prices and Honda's unwillingness to do good will warranties. Really?

    I disagree totally - if Honda had done the good will warranty originally it would have cost them WAAAY less than this settlement. Lets' say they replaced EVERY car that had the fire 100% when it happened. I think there were only a hundred or so - so 100 X 20K = 2 million total.

    I know two people who had this happen - Honda blew it on this one -plain and simple.

    PS I am not part of any settlement.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I think Lawyers are the only ones who win, since we are all going to pay for it with high purchase prices and Honda's unwillingness to do good will warranties. Really?

    I disagree totally - if Honda had done the good will warranty originally it would have cost them WAAAY less than this settlement. Lets' say they replaced EVERY car that had the fire 100% when it happened. I think there were only a hundred or so - so 100 X 20K = 2 million total.

    I know two people who had this happen - Honda blew it on this one -plain and simple.

    PS I am not part of any settlement

    Honda told dealers to replace filters on all incoming CR-V's and Elements when they found the root cause.

    But, the primary level of defence is the oil changer. It is his/her job to make sure the filter gasket was removed when the filter was removed.
  • michael7177michael7177 Member Posts: 1
    Honda CRV 2000 passenger door power locks don't work. The drivers side power lock button (silver) works but no longer triggers the others. Turning the exterior key no longer opens the others. Flipping up the passenger side button no longer opens the others. Could it be a simple fuse or circuit breaker that needs fixing?
  • coco100coco100 Member Posts: 3
    i purchased a 2007 Honda Certified CRV-EX-L from my honda dealer 4 months ago - it had 14,500 miles on it. I've put about 4000 mostly highway miles on it and I've just checked the tires and the front two are 2/32nds. Back ones are slightly better. I've had 4 Hondas of different styles and never had to replace tires this early. I need information and ideas from anyone out there. The dealer offered me 4 tires at 10% over cost (Nokia) but I still have to pay for labor etc. Good deal or not?
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    Our CRV had horrible Bridgestone Duelers that only gave us a bit over 20K before replacing, plus quickly deteriorating ride and traction. However, it seems like mediocre, if not poor tires come as OEM on a lot of vehicles these days. If you're going to keep the car, I'd just pony up for a good set of Michelin, or upper tier Goodyear tires. We put Michelin Harmony on our CRV and what an improvement. Have over 40K on them and they still look and drive good. When we bought a new Toyota, we immediately found a tire dealer that would take the new Bridgestones it came with in trade for a better brand (IMO) product. Never looked back and I think it was a smart move since we'd probably have had problems on the OEM and dumped them down the road anyway, but without any trade in credit (and we checked prices before hand to make sure the replacement tires weren't pumped up in price to offset the trade in allowance).
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Always shop Tirerack.com...you will learn about tires that are right for your car and your needs. The contact patch is the only thing between you, your loved ones and the road.

    Choose wisely, Grasshopper! And don't strecth the mileage. Remember, tires have a shelf life and always check the mfg. date on the inside sidewall when you buy. This should be very recent of your purchase or fughedaboudit!

    Regards,
    OW
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    Unfortunately, my 2005 CR-V had only 33K miles on it when the OEM tires got down to 2/32nds and had to be replaced. I was a little surprised and a little disappointed, but that is the ONLY disappointment I have had with my CR-V. Clearly Honda puts crummy, low-end OEM tires on their CR-Vs, but they make a superb vehicle and, overall, I remain well pleased. Will buy another one later on.
  • sr146260211sr146260211 Member Posts: 55
    Want to thank circlew for the tire website. Most valuable and a keeper ;)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    33k is pretty good mileage for an OEM tire, by any manufacturer. That's what I got on the OEM tires on my last new car, and that was after ruining/replacing one tire and having a couple of flats.

    I'm on my third set of replacement tires for that car, and these last ones are rated for high treadwear. That's fine but the ride is a bit worse and they are so hard, they are awful in the rain (luckily it doesn't rain much here or I would have had to dump them early). The second set of Costco Michelins didn't seem to last long enough, but they performed better. So longer tire life isn't necessarily a virtue.

    TireRack has lots of owner reviews - unfortunately lots of them are from brand new owners, but every little bit helps.
  • terryp1terryp1 Member Posts: 55
    Forget about the dealer as far as tires are concerned.
    Tirerrack.com is great for reading reviews of various tires. Someone here recommended a particular Yokohama and it gets good reviews there.
    The prices are good but then you have to find someone reputable to mount/balance/etc.

    Othewise, I think the best deal going is Costco, though I believe you're limited to just Michelin or BF Goodrich. Last month I got the $70 off special (a sale that repeats every few months) for a set of Michelin's latest, greatest, newest tire: Latitude Tour.
    After about 500 miles I know I like them. You can feel them hugging the road and the ride is smoother and quieter than the ?Bridgestone's that came with it new. They tout better gas mileage. (As a cub reporter at a newspaper in the late 70s I did a story on all the gadgets and additives that suddenly came on the market after the oil crunch of that decade. I listed enough of them and their touted gas mileage increases to come up with a car that actually produced its own gasoline.)

    I like that Costco hand torques them onto the car. I've had other places put the full 150 pounds or more air-gun pressure on them and.....good luck breaking lugs loose on a rainy night on the side of the road, or on an otherwise pleasant afternoon for that matter.
    Costco also uses nitrogen rather than regular air, which keeps the pressure more uniform at various temperatures.
    The price includes a good road hazard package.

    I think the savings would cover the cost of the $40 Costco membership.

    But the price still was a skid-marking $796.56 AFTER the $70 sale discount.
  • coco100coco100 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the input on this one (especially the Kung Fu reference). the website was a good start but I'm still alittle ticked off at having to replace the tires on this vehicle at 19,500. I do love this car but I will buy new next time.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    All the OEM tires are short life span. Don't know why, probably cost factor and the tire manufacturers figure out a way to make a tire 50% cost but looks like 100%. I bet you will get lots more miles by buying the same brand and model from tire companies outside.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I bet you will get lots more miles by buying the same brand and model from tire companies outside.

    I've heard that before and cheapening out on the OEM tire does make a bit of sense.

    I guess the tire company figures that the people they make mad with the lousy OEM tires who will never buy that brand again will be off-set by the larger number of tires sold to Honda or whoever. Seems like a dumb long-term business plan though.

    I've had some lousy aftermarket tires too - some Remingtons one time that came recommended but didn't last worth a flip. That was back in the early 90's and I'd never buy them again. People have long memories for that stuff.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "All the OEM tires are short life span. Don't know why, probably cost factor and the tire manufacturers figure out a way to make a tire 50% cost but looks like 100%. I bet you will get lots more miles by buying the same brand and model from tire companies outside. "

    My 2003 CRV EX OEM Dualers lasted 43K, about what I would expect. Maybe driving style has something to do with it.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Here's a little tech talk on tire wear ratings.

    Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) Standards

    UTQG Treadwear Grades are based on actual road use in which the test tire is run in a vehicle convoy along with standardized Course Monitoring Tires. The vehicle repeatedly runs a prescribed 400-mile test loop in West Texas for a total of 7,200 miles. The vehicle can have its alignment set, air pressure checked and tires rotated every 800 miles. The test tire's and the Monitoring Tire's wear are measured during and at the conclusion of the test. The tire manufacturers then assign a Treadwear Grade based on the observed wear rates. The Course Monitoring Tire is assigned a grade and the test tire receives a grade indicating its relative treadwear. A grade of 100 would indicate that the tire tread would last as long as the test tire, 200 would indicate the tread would last twice as long, 300 would indicate three times as long, etc.

    The problem with UTQG Treadwear Grades is that they are open to some interpretation on the part of the tire manufacturer because they are assigned after the tire has only experienced a little treadwear as it runs the 7,200 miles. This means that the tire manufacturers need to extrapolate their raw wear data when they are assigning Treadwear Grades, and that their grades can to some extent reflect how conservative or optimistic their marketing department is. Typically, comparing the Treadwear Grades of tire lines within a single brand is somewhat helpful, while attempting to compare the grades between different brands is not as helpful.

    Remember, is you drive only 10K miles per year and your tires are rated for 50K miles, the tire is probably going to degrade after the Year 3 - 4 (from my experience) and safer to change out before the tread life is over. Inspect your tires every year to see if cracks develop which is a sign that the tire is done and should be replaced, REGARDLESS OF MILEAGE LEFT ON THE TREAD. Here is some official info from TireRack.com:

    The surface cracks that occasionally appear have been called many things; Weather Checking, Weather Cracking or Ozone Cracking. These small cracks typically develop in the sidewalls or at the base of the tread grooves. Depending on their severity, they may be cosmetic in nature if they don't extend past the rubber's outer surface, or may be a reason to replace the tire if they reach deep into the rubber.

    Because all tires are made of rubber, all tires will eventually exhibit some type of cracking condition, usually late in their life. However, this cracking can be accelerated by too much exposure to heat, vehicle exhaust, ozone and sunlight, as well as electric generators and motors (that have armature brushes). For example, a vehicle parked outside instead of in a garage will constantly expose its tires to the rays of the sun, increasing the likelihood of cracking. Additionally, some sidewall cracking has been linked to abrasion from parking against a curb, or the excessive use of tire cleaners/dressings that inadvertently remove some of the tire's anti-oxidants and anti-ozone protection during every cleaning procedure. Interestingly enough, when sun exposure or excessive cleaning is the cause of the small cracks, the sidewall of the tire facing outward will show damage, while the sidewall facing inward is rarely affected.

    The anti-aging chemicals used in the rubber compounds are more effective when the tire is "exercised" on a frequent basis. The repeated stretching of the rubber compound actually helps resist cracks forming. The tires used on vehicles that are driven infrequently, or accumulate low annual mileage are more likely to experience cracking because long periods of parking or storage interrupt "working" the rubber. In addition to being an annoyance to show car owners, this condition often frustrates motor home and recreational vehicle owners who only take occasional trips and cannot even park their vehicle in a garage or shaded area. Using tire covers at least minimizes direct exposure to sunlight.


    Did I say I am and ex-tire mechanic? ;)

    Regards,
    OW
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    Have an 04 with about 90 k. when the car is at idle with the AC on, I can hear a slight squeal coming form the engine - my guess it is a belt. Anyone else have this problem. Do not hear it when driving and no performance issue. Is there an AC belt or is it just the regular belt.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    All the OEM tires are short life span. Don't know why, probably cost factor and the tire manufacturers figure out a way to make a tire 50% cost but looks like 100%. I bet you will get lots more miles by buying the same brand and model from tire companies outside.

    It is the same concept as when you buy a new printer it comes with half full cartridges.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Close, but dealers don't sell many replacement tires (and manufacturers don't sell any afaik).

    So you wind up at TireRack or Costco or Big O or Les Schwab with tires that only lasted 20,000 miles. Are you still going to buy the same tire again? Shoot, you'll probably switch brands just on general principles.

    The tire companies must make a bundle selling OEM tires to the automakers because surely they are hurting themselves in the replacement tire market. Are you going to get mad at Honda or Bridgestone when the tires wear out early? Probably Bridgestone.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Close, but dealers don't sell many replacement tires (and manufacturers don't sell any afaik).

    You would be surprized how many people don't know that they can get tires elsewhere for their vehicle to keep the warranty in effect. And many dealers are happy to oblige to sell them tires.

    Tire manufacturers know that majority of people will just buy whatever tire that came on the vehicle. In fact, when you go to a national tire chain, they will look at your tires, and will qoute you the same tire. You have to specifically ask for different brands, or do the research on your own. Heck, I would say majority of people don't even know what size their tires are, and what all those numbers on the sidewall mean. They just let "professionals" deal with it.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yeah, I guess you're right. I keep forgetting that lots of people don't come to Edmunds and don't know to shop around. When I told my sister to buy some tires from TireRack off the internet last year she had no idea that was even an option.
  • iamknottiamknott Member Posts: 82
    My wife got a small ding in the rear bumper of her EXL. It consists of a round depression (maybe the diameter of a pencil eraser and about 1/8" deep) and a 2" shallow scratch below that. This is in the glossy black plastic molding just below the rear hatch. Naturally, the dealer wants to replace the whole bumper cover at a cost of about $350., which I find crazy. Does anyone have any experience in D.I.Y. bumper repair? I know that working with plastic is not something that most amateurs should attempt, but my goal is to just make the damage less noticeable, not like new. Can I sand it lightly without taking off the semi-gloss finish? Are there any paints or filler material that would fill in the depression and scratch and not rub off the first time I wash the car?
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    You can use rubbing and polishing compound to take the scratch out of the clear coat. But if it's scratched to the palstic, you'll need to use some touch-up paint first, then lightly wet sand with a 1000 grit or finer. Then use rubbing ocmpound and polish.

    Honestly, I'd let it go. it won't rust, and you're sure to get more in the future. Definitely not worht replacing hte rear bumper for. "Murphy's Law" says that as soon as you repalce hte bumper, you will get into an accident or another ding shortly thereafter.
  • acarpersonacarperson Member Posts: 13
    I haven't tried any of their products but you checkout this site:

    Dr ColorChip
  • defieldingdefielding Member Posts: 35
    Most cities have plastic repair shops. They often repair fairings on race bikes and boats. You may want to check to see if there is one where you live.
  • lori56lori56 Member Posts: 19
    Does anyone know if this is available for the 2009 LX? According to the 2009 CRV brochure, it's included with the EX models. I cannot locate the duel cargo shelf anywhere. The Honda accessory website doesn't list it... It sounds like a handy accessory to have. But maybe it just doesn't fit in the LX (?) (I know about the cargo retractable cover; it's the shelf I'd like to have.) Thanks!
  • 51985198 Member Posts: 11
    Hello All - My CRV is in desparate need of new shoes! I can head to the local Discount Tire or Costco.....not sure how to recognize a good tire or good price...I mainly drive around town with the occaisional freeway trip. appreciate the advice!
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    www.tirerack.com has good tire info ... you don't need to buy from them but you can learn a lot from their site. The ratings of dry, wet, winter, quietness, comfort are very helpful ... the the review ... i find this rating useful: "will you buy this product AGAIN"
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    Check e-bay. The one I saw was (ridiculously) expensive and note the modifications required for first time install. I have an EX model with the cargo shelf. It is turned upside down (hard vinyl up) and lies on the floor. It looks more practical than it is, imo.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-2009-HONDA-CRV-REAR-CARGO-SHELF(STANDARD-ON-EX-MOD_W0QQitemZ400027354053QQcmdZViewItem
  • lori56lori56 Member Posts: 19
    Thanks very much for your reply...Could you kindly share your opinion of its practicality? Sounds like a good idea..but maybe it isn't (?)
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    Well, I guess its practicality depends on how you use the cargo bay. I've never found that separating stuff between top and bottom sections helped much. More often, I found myself removing the shelf because it got in the way of carrying a large item. This requires first removing any items from the cargo bay so the shelf will fit on the floor, a nuisance. So, now it sits mostly on the floor and out of the way.

    The top shelf has a fairly low weight limit. I forget the amount. But the idea of having it piled high with stuff in a panic stop worried me a bit.

    I like the security it offers by blocking someone's view of your cargo. But with rear windows tinted, it's difficult to see the cargo anyway (unless the sun is shining directly into it). Still, I use it when traveling to hide our luggage from view.

    So, while it has some uses, I think it looks more useful than it is.
  • aboutenoughaboutenough Member Posts: 1
    I have done a lot of body repairs on cars and I don't know why you couldn't fill that small ding with bondo. You would have to sand with course wet black sandpaper at first then work your way down to a 400 fine till its really smooth. Get the paint id of your door of your car and get the paint at Schucks and paint on a day that is not windy and at least 70 degrees. Let it dry for a week or so and wax it so it blends in with rest of paint. If your worried about doing it a body shop would probably do it for not to much, but its simple.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I had a shelf like that in my minivan. It was mostly worthless and kept getting in my way. I wound up throwing it away.
  • soco4soco4 Member Posts: 9
    Consider the Costco-exclusive Michelin X tires. This model was the highest-rated tire in a Consumer Reports test. In any case, read the users' comments on the Tire Rack website to avoid possible disappointment. For example, more than one poster noticed the irritating tendency for CRVs to follow longitudinal irregularities when equipped with one highly-rated tire.
  • chuckfromlichuckfromli Member Posts: 249
    CircleW-Thank you! Everything I always wanted to know about tire cracking.
  • chuckfromlichuckfromli Member Posts: 249
    tirerack.com is the way to go for info. Their prices are competetive too. Shipping runs about seven dollars per tire, then you have to lug them to someone to install them and balance them. That's about another $20 per tire.

    If you live in a suburban area, check out our local tire chain(s) for tires rated highly on tirerack.

    I also have a local guy that started just doing tires and oil changes. He has since expanded to 5 bays and now does brakes, suspensions, general repairs, things like that. I wonder about the skill of his mechanics, and they are not to big on providing receipts, but he beats the tire chains by about ten dollars per tire. And he knows what tires make people happy and which don't. He's big on Kumho and Yokohama. Kumhos are usually very decent and cheaper than the big names.

    The Firestone place by me offers free flat repairs and free tire rotations if you buy tires from them. That could really save you sa lot of money if you get the tires rotated about every 6000 miles (every other oil change). There might be like a $20 charge per tire for lifetime flat repair. But I saw recently that Firestone was having problems again with tread separation. Not sure what tire(s) are affected this time.
  • lori56lori56 Member Posts: 19
    :confuse: Should the first oil change be done before 10,000 miles? I'd appreciate some feedback on this since I've always done oil changes at about 3500 miles or so....The Honda salesperson told me the car's monitor on the dashboard "will tell me." Seems to me that if the oil is not near 100%, might be time to change it (?)
    (I'm considering getting the first oil change when I have the tires rotated at about 5000 miles.) Please advise. Thanks!
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    But I saw recently that Firestone was having problems again with tread separation.

    You've got to be kidding - I can't believe it! We've owned problem 500's, 721's and Wilderness. I just won't touch them any more. Looks like Firestone doesn't care about their reputation letting this happen all over yet once again. Next thing you know, they'll be in Washington with their hand extended for a bailout!
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    yes definitely get that oil changed before 10,000 miles. I would definitely change the oil at what you're used to at 3500 miles. You'll get some people on here who support Honda's thinking, and I think it's a cruel joke by Honda just to guarantee future service business by suggesting such long changes. Some will also tell you that oil changes at 3500 miles are "wasteful" of the earth's resources.
    Funny it's not a waste since they actually recycle oil. Plus it's not their car, it's yours!

    so to summarize, yes get that oil changed every 3500 or the old honda interval was 3750, fit nicely into 7500, then 15,000 miles for all the normal maintenance timings.

    And when you do go to the dealer it's important for you to check the oil level on the dipstick, make sure they didn't overfill it! I keep seeing that a lot at dealers, and don't let them tell you it's ok, because it's not. If it is over filled, make them drain it til it's within the max and min (closer to max) hope that helps! :shades:
  • lori56lori56 Member Posts: 19
    Yes, thanks so very much for your imput! I have about 700 miles on the CRV now, and the oil life is showing 90%. Is that usual and normal? :confuse:
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