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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Both low beam headlights went out on my 04 CRV. I replaced both bulbs, checks both under-hood headlight fuses, AND swapped out the headlight relays (also in the under-hood fuse panel) with 2 others of the same p/n that were in the panel. Still no luck - calling the dealer today to see if there is something I'm missing. Any help appreciated !!
  • dtstofdtstof Member Posts: 61
    At first I didn't use the shelf much. Now I find I use it quite often. When shopping and going to multiple stores along with grocery shopping, I put the heavier items on the floor, and put the lighter, bulkier items on top(TP and PT). I can really pack the rear full that way. Also, unloading items bought for my daughter, they can be put on top and taken out, without going through the whole area.

    I also saw your oil change thread. Honda says to let the first oil stay in for the long period of time. I did that, and now use synthetic oil and follow their service intervals.
    I'll follow their advice. 2007 CRV
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    You are going to get widely different opinions on this. Some people actually think Honda's recommendations are part of a conspiracy to generate more repair business. There's not much one can say about that.

    My grandfather thought oil should be changed at 1,500 miles. My father is sure 3,000 is right. Both won't recognize that oils and engines have improved, making longer oil change intervals appropriate.

    I've always followed the automakers recommendations. I keep my cars 10-15 years. Not one has suffered from premature excess oil consumption or other oil-related problems.

    Honda knows their engines better than any of us shade tree mechanics. And, yes, the oil in your new car is a break-in oil that will help your engine last longer. Don't dump in down a drain until it's completed its job. Good luck.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Everybody knows that Honda uses special "break-in" oil and Honda says not to change the oil early to maximize engine performance. Check your owner's manual.

    "New oil has chemicals that eat away the catalytic converter, says Donny Seyfer, a Colorado-based certified master technician, and changing oil too often can damage that pricey part."

    The Great Car Maintenance Upsell (Yahoo/Smart Money)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    yes definitely get that oil changed before 10,000 miles. I would definitely change the oil at what you're used to at 3500 miles. You'll get some people on here who support Honda's thinking, and I think it's a cruel joke by Honda just to guarantee future service business by suggesting such long changes. Some will also tell you that oil changes at 3500 miles are "wasteful" of the earth's resources.
    Funny it's not a waste since they actually recycle oil. Plus it's not their car, it's yours!

    so to summarize, yes get that oil changed every 3500 or the old honda interval was 3750, fit nicely into 7500, then 15,000 miles for all the normal maintenance timings.

    And when you do go to the dealer it's important for you to check the oil level on the dipstick, make sure they didn't overfill it! I keep seeing that a lot at dealers, and don't let them tell you it's ok, because it's not. If it is over filled, make them drain it til it's within the max and min (closer to max) hope that helps!

    Wouldn't the used oil analysis be the definitive answer? And accodring to the posted oil tests the K-series engines are very easy on the oil, and 10,000 miles on Group II (pure dinasaur juice) seems OK.
  • sdescantsdescant Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if I was ripped off? The blower stops working in my 2004 LX. The shop tells me that the a/c control head is out. I ask if they tested the blower motor and the blower resistor and they tell me that both are operational. The repair happens. When I pick the car up, they tell me that once the control head was replaced, the blower resistor was not working properly so that was replaced as well. Does this make sense? Was the resistor working and an add-on repair? Was the resistor the problem and the control head an add-on? Did they just do the diagnosing improperly? Any input would be appreciated...
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    I found the parcel shelf could be useful, if the larger objects are the right size. For me, our stroller it too big to fit under the shelf. On long trips however, I might place the stroller on top, and luggage under the shelf, which would best maximize the space.... like having 2 trunks in one. The overall footprint of hte trunk is about the same size as our Altima, but of course you can ple stuff a lot higher, its' easier to load, and a lot bigger and more vesitile wiht hte seats folded forward.

    As for oil changes. I agree, follow the maintenance minder or change after 12 months if your a low mileage driver like me. You might however, want to change the oil the first time 12 months from the MFG date, not the date you took delivery... or specifically 12 months from when it first started being operated.

    I used to change my oil at 5000 or 6 months, but I'm starting to think that was probably overkill.
  • cscaleracscalera Member Posts: 2
    Hi. I am new to the forum and have a question about my husbands CRV. His car failed inspection for emissions. The code was P1166 which apparently is the O2 sensor. I am more than willing to replace it myself since Honda wants a ridiculous amount of money to do it. I know I will need an O2 socket, but my question is this: Is there any way to tell which O2 sensor is bad? There are 2 and I don't want to replace the wrong one. Any help would be appreciated as well as any advice on how to go about the actual replacement. This will be my first ever attempt at auto repair!

    Thanks
    Christine
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    Consider getting a service manual. I believe it can be checked with a multimeter. As with any sensor, either the resistance or voltage needs to be checked. If it's pegged at a minimum or maximum voltage or resitance reading while the engine is running, it's probably a good indication it's bad.

    Otherwise a scan tool might be able to interface with the computer and tell you which of the 2 sensors is giving an out of range reading.

    If you have no idea what I'm talking about...then you're relegated to being a "parts changer", and you can buy 1 new sensor, take a 50/50 shot to see if the problem is fixed. If not, swap sensors again.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    sounds about normal for 90% at 700 miles. But remember that monitor is set up for 10,000 mile intervals. 10% = 700 miles X 10 intervals = 7,000 miles (100% used). See how close it really is?

    And I love the urban myth that Honda uses "special break in" oil. No one has ever proven that is true at all. But I usually change the oil at around 1000 miles regardless of what the owner's manual says. I had a couple of honda's before that I listened to the oil change recommendations and didn't change the oil at 1000 miles, the fuel economy wasn't as good then as it was on the one I did the first oil change at 1000 miles.

    But if you don't want to change the oil at 1000, then definitely at 3000 miles you should change it out. Then after that like you wanted around 3500-3750 miles.
    and you're welcome for the help!
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    I agree taht it's a urban myth. Most point ot higher level of moly in oil samples taken. But that is most likely from the assembly grease used when the engine is assembled. it has an extremely high moly content to protect the components parts during the first start-up before oil makes it through all the passage ways and it fully bled. Also, it's nessesary to rotate some engine parts during assembly and for some of the engine tests performed before it's installed.

    Theres simply no need for a special oil. In modern engines, there's not a whole lot of break-in that actually occurs after the first 2 or 3 miles... which are done at the factory.
  • cscaleracscalera Member Posts: 2
    Thanks motoguy. I have a pretty good idea what you mean. I am not a mechanic by trade (stay at home mom actually) but I can read and I am handy so I am not totally lost! I spoke with a friend of mine who has an OBD I can borrow, but I am thinking I will change both anyway, since the car has 114,000 miles on it. I will most likely recoup the money for the second one on what he makes up in gas mileage.

    Thanks!
    Christine
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    And I love the urban myth that Honda uses "special break in" oil.

    That's why I (and most people) put it in quotes. But it does have high moly content from the build and Honda must think it provides some benefits because everywhere you look, Honda recommends not changing it early.

    Who knows engines better than Honda?
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    >>And I love the urban myth that Honda uses "special break in" oil. No one has ever proven that is true at all.

    Isn't an "urban myth" a rumor that gets accepted by many as the truth? In this case, we have no rumor. Honda says they use a special break-in oil. It recommends leaving that oil in the car until the first scheduled oil change. That's not a rumor. It's a fact.

    You're right, though, about one thing. I haven't actually proven that Honda is telling the truth. First, I trust them not to lie about something like this, and, second, I suspect if they did, one of the auto testing outfits would enjoy very much exposing such a lie. So far, none have.

    But one thing is for sure, no one here is likely to change their mind about the appropriate frequency of oil changes. Good luck to all.
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    Christine:
    Just in case this might help, the trouble code reads like this:

    "P1166 Primary H02S (No. 1) Heater System Electrical"

    Wish I could offer more, but I'd be the blind leading the blind.

    Cheers,

    Jack
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    I think the main concern from the Honda engineers is that fresh oil won't allow as much engine wear. So it's desireable to leave it in for a longer period to finish doing it's job. I'm still not convinced it's a special formulation. If it is, it's only special is the what level of the typical additives or friction modifiers are included.

    That being said, Honda loves to sell you THEIR fluids it seems more than most other companies. In the motorcycle world, it's not uncommon for other manufacturers and dealers to use Honda grease for routine services such as lubricating drive shaft splines or during engine re-assembly.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I am planning on buying a CR-V EX-L w/o Nav.
    I spoke to a salesperson at Coral Springs Honda who wanted $6K down and 400.00 per month for lease and 7.8K down and 400.00 per month to buy.
    I thought the guy must think I am an idiot so I left.
    Anyone recently purchased a car like this one in this area and how much did you pay?
    Thanks

    It is common on Hondas with digital HVAC controls to have the voltage regulating transistor to fail. The dealer charges about $70 for the module. The replacement is probably an hour of labor, or free if you do it your self. Some have just soldered a replecement transistor into the existing circuit board for $10.

    So, yes, it does sound like the shop misdiagnosed the problem. Honda shop manual lists self test procedure for the HVAC controller (control head in your case). It is fairly simple and does not require special tools.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hi. I am new to the forum and have a question about my husbands CRV. His car failed inspection for emissions. The code was P1166 which apparently is the O2 sensor. I am more than willing to replace it myself since Honda wants a ridiculous amount of money to do it. I know I will need an O2 socket, but my question is this: Is there any way to tell which O2 sensor is bad? There are 2 and I don't want to replace the wrong one. Any help would be appreciated as well as any advice on how to go about the actual replacement. This will be my first ever attempt at auto repair!

    I am pretty sure 1166 is the primary O2 sensor. The shop manual should have it listed, or google it.
  • mkpbgmkpbg Member Posts: 1
    I have EXACTLY the same problem. Any suggestions as to a resolution to the problem? Thank you!
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Solved - went to dealer today, the stalk / combo switch (headlights and turn signals) had arched and shorted out. Tech indicated it is a common problem often seen on CIVICs but the first he had seen on a CRV. They have a connector kit for the Civic that fit the CRV. Connector kit need to adapt to new switch. Replaced stalk (combo switch p/n 7743875-35999) for total cost of $240. Stinks but I rarely had a problem with this vehicle so at 125K miles, I'm OK with it.
  • iamknottiamknott Member Posts: 82
    Several recent messages have concerned the proper break-in of engines and oil. I thought you might be interested in what I observed at the Honda assembly plant in Marysville about 15 years ago. After the final inspection for fit and finish, a line of young men waited at the end of the production line. Each would jump into a car and drive it over to an area where the car straddled a pit (occupied by two employees) with its drive wheels resting on rotating drums. The driver proceeded to slam through the forward gears, reaching moderately high revs in each. Then the brakes were applied firmly and the process was repeated in reverse gear. Finally, the lights were flashed, the horn blown twice, and the car sped out of the building. I remember thinking, "Well, so much for that easy break-in period I read about in the manual."

    The whole process took about 30 seconds, so I don't know what the guys in the pit could accomplish in that time. Maybe they were just there to observe any potential driveline problems. In any event, I hope they had some protection.

    Have any of you seen anything similar in other plants or with other manufacturers?
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Recommended Oil Change &
    Inspection Intervals Job Aid

    Currently Applies To: All Models

    With improvements in engine oil and engine design,
    American Honda has steadily stretched out its
    recommended intervals between oil changes. In the
    beginning, there was just one oil change interval:
    7.5K. In ’01, the 10K interval was introduced on the
    new Civic. And in ’05, the maintenance minder
    system came on the scene with the new Odyssey.

    To help you keep all of this stuff straight, we’ve
    posted the Recommended Oil Change & Inspection
    Intervals job aid on ISIS. This handy chart lists all
    Honda cars and trucks for the past 10 years and
    shows you at a glance what oil change interval
    applies for a particular model and model year. For
    easy recognition, we’ve even color-coded the
    intervals: blue for 7.5K, red for 10K, and green for
    maintenance minder.

    image

    Regards,
    OW
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    Why term it a Urban Myth, or mention "Special Break-in Oil?" Honda doesn't. In the Honda Service News of August 2006, page 4, Honda explains, in part:
    "Factory-Fill Engine Oil Looks Dark? Its Normal. At PDI, does the engine oil look less like Texas Tea, and more like Oklahoma Crude? Don't worry, there's nothing wrong with the engine. The engine oil looks that way because of molybdenum (that's "moly" for short, a special lubricant applied by the factory to critical engine components during assembly.
    When the engine is test-run, that molybdenum mixes with the engine oil, turning it a dark metallic color, often within the first 5 minutes of running.
    What is really important to remember here is this: Don't change the factory-fill oil because it is dark; just make sure it's at the right fluid level. To ensure proper engine break-in, the factory-fill engine oil needs to remain in the engine until the first scheduled maintenance interval."
    It seems to me some well-meaning folks at this site, with far fewer credentials than Honda engineers, could be misleading other readers.
    Personally, I've had excellent results abiding with what Honda recommends - not to be confused with what any Dealer/Stealer recommends.
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    If "factory-fill engine oil" is the more accurate term than "break-in oil" for what Honda does, that works for me.

    And thanks for adding to what others have said about molybdenum being the ingredient that Honda wants circulating in the engine until the first scheduled oil change.
  • sr146260211sr146260211 Member Posts: 55
    Talked to my dealership regarding engine break in oil and was told Honda does not use break in oil anymore. No reason given.
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    Interesting. But when you say "dealership," what does than mean? Are we talking salesperson, parts clerk, or service manager? If the latter, OK. I've heard a lot of bogus stuff over the years that gets labeled "the dealership said."

    In any case, my CR-V owner's manual under Break-in Period says: "Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time."

    They don't say why they don't want it changed earlier.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,768
    They do pretty much the same thing with Z4s at the BMW plant in SC.. (well.. they did.. now, the Z4s are made in Europe).

    But, going through gears on a dyno, is a lot different than with a real-life load out on the road... I don't think the purpose is to "break-in" the mechanicals.... nor, do I think that this negates the break-in period specified by the owner's manual.

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  • sr146260211sr146260211 Member Posts: 55
    Service Manager is what I meant..... ;)
  • madams1madams1 Member Posts: 101
    Just to let everyone know that there is a video procedure about changing out the cabin air filters(also in the service book) for 2nd generation CRV's. Just google it and it should come up. Ordered my filters from an online honda parts place for half of what the dealer wants and saved the high cost to replace from the dealer. It was really easy. Mine were filthy and were last replaced 30K miles ago.
  • boslaw71boslaw71 Member Posts: 7
    Honda is recommending the following for my car:

    1. catalytic converter shield replacement + new donut on A pipe: $430
    2. left sway bar link broken $225
    3. left front lower ball joint loose $675
    4. alignment $89.95
    5. tires $565
    6. brake pads/rotors $1000
    7. battery $140
    8. spark plugs $215!!!???

    which of these can I reasonably do myself if it would save me $$? I'm no mechanic but I'm mechanically inclined and can generally handle repair if I can find decent instructions on the web.

    thanks
  • joekinsojoekinso Member Posts: 14
    Well,....The first thing you should do is get a second opinion from a reputable shop.
    Walmart will change your battery or you can buy one and change it yourself. Be sure you have the radio code before you do this or you will wish you had paid to have it changed. Spark plugs are changed at 100K miles I believe and are about $80.00 (for 4, Iridium?) and about 20 minutes work. There are instructions on the net for changing the links but I wouldn't advise it. I did my own and had to smash the mini ball joints to get vice grips to hold them while I undid the nut and then needed a torque wrench to install the replacements. If you're having tires changed or brakes replaced, the wheels will be off and it shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to change BOTH links. They cost about $25.00 ea for aftermarket parts. Is the car exhaust noisy? If not, then why the donut replacement? Does a CR-V have an exhaust donut? My '02' is still as quiet as it was when new and has 110 K miles so far. Ball joint? again get another price, get the price on real Honda parts if you are concerned and then labor only from an independent shop.
    Good luck, keep us posted.
  • boslaw71boslaw71 Member Posts: 7
    thanks. I figured I was getting ripped off.

    Battery - easy
    Plugs - easy

    Ball joint & sway bars? Figured I could do those with some instructions but I was already into them for diagnosis fees and I had to apply those fees to something, so I applied to those 2 items. Surely I got taken on those, but they were the items I had least familiarity with.

    The car has about 145k miles and the exhaust has been sputtering, rattling and smelling. They suggested the catalytic shield replacement and donut replacement as a fix to that problem. I've read on the web that you can clamp the shield with some metal hose clamps rather than replacing, so I may try that route first. I can live with a little exhaust smell so I'll not do the donut for now. Aftermarket tire place for the tires, and I'll probably just try to do the brakes/pads/rotors myself.
  • madams1madams1 Member Posts: 101
    My 2003 CRV(LX) makes a noise when I put the brakes on and stop completely. Just had new front brake pads and rotors turned about 6k ago. The only two times it has made this noise is when the vehicle has been driven a while. Normally I drive 5 miles on the interstate and take the bus to work. Then back home and sometimes to the YMCA which is a short trip. So to sum up it seems to make this noise when I drive longer trips and does not make the noise after the car has cooled down. :confuse:

    I had the oil and trans fluid changed this week and the guy said he would check it out, but did not mention finding anything when I picked up the vehicle.

    Any ideas?
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    I live in Ohio. Since the winter is coming, I want to know what should we do to protect our car from the snow and the salt? Especially the under part.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Wash it every week.

    Regards,
    OW
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    you can get a good wax like Mother's California Gold Carnauba Wax and wax the car before winter. Always helps.

    first wash the car, dry it, then seal/wax it. I find the California Gold system from Mother's works well. I don't use the first step, the cleaner, dont need it. But I do use, step two,Glaze/Sealer, applied first, then step three, the Carnauba wax. Really nice results :shades:
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    Thanks!

    Do you guys do anyting about chassis?
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    There is an undercarriage wash at some car washes if you need it.

    Regards,
    OW
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    yes definitely use a hand-wash sprayer (coin operated one) and spray under the car and in the wheel wells..

    But....

    ONLY do this above 32degrees.. otherwise you're freezing water in there, not good

    oh and you're welcome :)
  • ultra2004ultra2004 Member Posts: 11
    In my 2005 Honda CR-V, the passenger window can't roll down. When I use the roll down all the windows one by one at night, I found that the head lights dim a little bit except on the passenger window, which is not operational at all. My coworker told me that it is probably the regulator. How easy is it to replace a window regulator by myself? I have never replaced any electronic devices in any cars. Does anyone have the step-by-step instruction?

    Thanks
  • fullmoon3fullmoon3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I am strongly considering trading my my 2003 Outback for a 2007 CR-V--my main concern is having a car with low maintenance and VERY reliable. Am I making a good choice with a CR-V?
    What should I look for in terms of common problems, and for previous maintenance with a 20-30K miles car?

    Thanks so much!
  • meteor88meteor88 Member Posts: 1
    The back seat of my 1999 CRV does not go all the way down, it sits at almost a 40 degree angle, so it limits the load I can carry. Any trick to make it lay flat?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    The back seat of my 1999 CRV does not go all the way down, it sits at almost a 40 degree angle, so it limits the load I can carry. Any trick to make it lay flat?

    Did you read the OWNER's MANUAL?

    IT should have a step by step on how to lower the back seats. You are probably missing a step (lifting the cushion), which is very critical in making the seatback lay flat.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I live in Ohio. Since the winter is coming, I want to know what should we do to protect our car from the snow and the salt? Especially the under part.

    Replace the Automatic Transission fluid if you have 30,000 miles on it.

    Replace the Rear differential fluid.

    Bleed the brakes and replace the brake fluid every 3 years, regardless of mileage.

    Replace the Power steering fluid every 3 years.

    Clean and lubricate brake sliding components using Molykote-77, pay special attention to the slider pins. This should be done at least once a year, after winter, but I do mine twice a year, before and after winter.

    Clean the underside from all the salt using the carriage wash at the carwash.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Did you read the OWNER's MANUAL?

    If he's posing the question here, there's a pretty good chance he doesn't have an owner's manual.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    The one problem that seems common to the current CR-V (2007-09) is some rear differential groan (4wd only, of course) when making tight and slow turns, especially in cold weather. Honda issued a TSB that covered changing the fluid and burnishing the gears.

    This lead to a long discussion and difference of opinion on whether Honda's maintenance recommendations for rear differential fluid changes were adequate. The consensus seemed to be that the CR-V needs rear diff fluid changes more often than Honda recommends.

    Otherwise, my 2007 has been a gem.
  • dakota968dakota968 Member Posts: 9
    My CRV sat for about 2 weeks waiting for an engine. (I decided to replace the engine after a blown head gasket). When I went to drive the car to the garage the shifter was extremely tight. When I got it in drive it went just fine and shifted smoothly through the gears. It was just very hard to move the shifter up and down.
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    I think much of what people think is the differntial groaning, is actually the stability control activating the ABS along with perhaps some chatter from the diffrential clutch plates responding to the response of the braes being applyed. I took a tight turn where the car was making the noise with the VSA switched on and off. The noise did not occur with the VSA turned off.

    I could be wrong. But I just don't see how a brand new car with 1000 miles would already have a groaning noise form the rear differntial.

    In very tight turns, the outside wheels will be traveling significantly faster than the inside wheels, and the front wheels will also be moving faster than the rear wheels which would also activate the rear differential. the insider rear will be moving hte slowest, the outside front the fastest.
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    >>I think much of what people think is the differntial groaning, is actually the stability control activating the ABS . . . .

    I doubt it. First, the sound was heard at very slow speeds, literally a crawl. Second, Honda issued a TSB that identified the problem as requiring service to the differential gears and a fluid change.
  • lewie1999lewie1999 Member Posts: 1
    I filled my tank last week and drove about 30 miles home where I smelt gas and my malfunction light came on. I removed my fuel cap and made sure it was on tight. I couldn't find any signs of fuel leaks in the engine compartment or fuel tank area. I have driven approx. 400 miles and the light's still on and my fuel milage has dropped a bunch. I have a code reader, but cannot find the plug to connect it. Has anyone any suggestions on this problem or where the code reader plugs into.
    Thanks!
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