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The light will go away later. Don't do the above and it shouldn't come back again.
You don't say whether your CR-V is a 4-WD model. What you think is rear brake noise may be rear differential noise.
If after your car is serviced by the dealer, and assuming you aren't satisfied with the results, talk to the service manager, ask to take a test drive in a brand new model to see how its noise compares with your car. If there's a problem, Honda will probably make it right. Good luck.
Thanks.
Thanks!
The OBD II plug on the 1997-2001 may have been installed on the passenger side of the center console. Check with the OWNER's MANUAL.
If, when filling, the pump is forced to go past the first shut off point, the flue will flood the evaporative emissions canister (aka charcoal canister). It's job is to collect fuel vapors when the vehicle is just sitting and is building up pressure in the fuel tank from the heat. Then, when the jey is inserted and turned to the "ON" position, the vapors are introduced to the air-fuel mix to make starting easier. However, constant flooding of the canister will eventually fill it up and cause it to malfunction. Or worse, a valve that is designed to control the fuel vapor flow will be soaked in fuel and fail.
Check the codes, and if the code is for Evaporative Emissions Control, then it is most likely the canister, and it will need to be replaced.
Check the voltage at the offending refulator.
See if there is any corrosion, or an object preventing the window from moving in its tracks.
It could be as simple as a failed switch, or broken wire.
Good luck.
P.S. If you are going to be doing the work on the car you may want to invest in the official Honda Shop Manual. The order form should be in the back of the OWNER's MANUAL, or online at www.helminc.com They are not cheap, but well worth their weight in gold and saved time.
There is apparently a lot of confusion on the issue of Honda Oil changes.
I just got a 2009 FIT.
The manual states that you should not get a first oil change until the indicator tells you to. The manual also states seperately that the oil change indicator will tell you when to get an oil change--that it determines that based on the type of driving that you are doing.
I know that the common thought is that you get an oil change every 3K mile or so, but why would Honda write in 2 places in their manual that you should wait till the indicator tells you to if they did not mean it?
Honda's reputation is built on reliabilty and longevity, not replacing engines and cars prematurely. Plus the adverse publicity and harm to reputation and fines for misrepresenting oil change intervals could serverly harm the company. What would they have to gain? If anything--they should tell you have oil changes every 3K miles at the dealer to support their dealer network but they do not.
Anyone else have any comments on this topic?
Regards,
OW
Curious how was it costs when you had it fixed? I am dreading this.
Call you dealer and describe the noises you hear.
Try taking het same turn with eth VSA turned off and see if you still hear hte same sound.
I have a brand new '09 and heard a similar noise but it wasn't present with the VSA turned off. I'm have a better feel for how the VSA respondds and the noises it makes thsi winter.
Check the voltage at the offending refulator.
See if there is any corrosion, or an object preventing the window from moving in its tracks.
It could be as simple as a failed switch, or broken wire.
Thanks, blueiedgod. You are pointing at the right direct. Finally I got a chance to get a voltage meter and found the wire to the regulator doesn't have any voltage at all.
Next step I will check the wire, but it seems it is hard to follow the wires. I will try. If anyone has any good hints on how to make checking the wires easier, I would love to hear your advice. Thanks
I have been puzzled about what happened to my 97 CR-V. I was driving, everything was running perfectly, and then suddenly the engine just died. Boom, just like that. No noises, no other indications of any problems. It just stopped, as if I turned off the ignition. I had to tow it back to my house, where it's been sitting for a while now.
I don't have a lot of money, but I need to get it fixed. Obviously one of the causes could have been the fuel pump dying. My battery's now dead, but at the time it was fine. The engine turned when I tried to start it but it otherwise just didn't start. What other reasons could have caused the car to die?
Whatever you guys can tell me will help me decide if I fix it, or junk it. Thanks in advance for your help here.
Has the ignition switch recall been performed?
Are there any outstanding recalls?
The frist two can be easily asnwered by logging into Honda Owners link on www.honda.com Just have the VIN handy.
If you get nowhere there.
Check fuel pressure.
Is the fuel pump on (you should hear it make noise for 30 seconds or so when you first turn on the ignition.
Is fule filter clean?
Is there spark?
Is distributor working?
Are contacts worn out?
Are wires intact?
Is the ignition coil producing the voltage needed for th spark...
you don't have to have a lot of money to do the trouble shooting your self. For an engine to run you need Air, Fuel and Spark, all in the right proportions and correct times. Get your self a Helms Honda Shop manual and work from there. Once you isolate the problem, replace the offending part, rather than just throwing parts at it.
Good luck.
Thanks for the input. I got the ignition switch replaced in 2002, right after the recall was announced. Funny thing is, the car behaved just like what the recall indicated - the car just cut out in the middle of traffic, no warning. Only thing was, it never started up again. The recall said the ignition switch outages could be erratic and unpredictable. So we'll see what happens.
First thing, I need to get a new battery in it. Then, I can do the troubleshooting you described. Problem is I don't have the tools I once had that I could use to fix this myself (my tools were stolen in a burglary). I can do the basic troubleshooting, but if I had to R&R the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump, then I'm screwed.
And, just for your reference, I have the official Honda shop manual for this model year.
first the battery you can get from Autozone, their Duralast batteries are now made by Johnson Controls. Same people who make Honda's batteries, same insides too. But for a lower price, gotta love that. (Honda dealer's are always overpriced). Just make sure to load test the new battery before you install it. To make sure it's not a dud. never know could happen, better to test before.
Ever think that the ignition switch IS the problem? Just because it was recalled, doesn't mean the new one wouldn't die the same way. Your thoughts/instincts are correct that it acted just like the recall, definitely listen to them, that's probably where you should start first. Since you have the service manual, then you can use that to diagnose with a multimeter the ignition switch. A multimeter, if you don't have one, is like $3.99 at harbor freight.
I had the CRV for 8 months and sold it last night - too many problems.
When it was finally time for the oil change, I did not have it changed at the dealership, I had it done closer to home.
Question: Is the indicator system/light still accurate at this point or would the dealer have changed it now that the factory-oil is gone?
After years of 3000 miles then 5000 miles for each change - I am anxious!
The reset procedure is in the manual.
Regards,
OW
But if you're anxious and don't want to wait, why should you have to? There is nothing or anyone holding a gun to your head forcing you to wait. You want to change your oil at 5000 miles, then change it.
When did people become controlled by a computer? IT's JUST OIL PEOPLE! If it makes you happy, change it early!
I think the bigger question is whether the seat covers are side air bag friendly. If the seat covers are not desined to accomodate the exploding side airbags, which are mounted on the side of the seatback, then you are just asking for trouble, big trouble!!!
I don't have the 2010 OWNER's MANUAL, but, I highly doubt that it does not say how to remove the headrests. How else are you going to line up the seats for the bed feature?
My 2008 CRV had been in a minor accident, and I need to get it repaired. I found the following website which lists recognized Honda body shops:
http://bodyshops.honda.com/
To my surprise, the listing in my area do not include a single dealership (although I know of a couple of dealerships who have their own body shops).
I am wondering if I am better off going to a dealership or one of the shops listed on this site. Any idea? TIA.
I looked at the link you gave, and most of the ones it's recommending around me are kind of scary. Seemed more like MAACO-type lower quality places that rush you in, rush you out and well you can imagine those results!
So my take? I don't think the dealer-owned bodyshops are that great at all. They are high-priced and the ones at least in my area do subpar work. Try and find a shop where Corvette owners go, because it's not easy painting fiberglass! I am not a GM supporter, just saying that most classic car people want custom paint jobs and they will not accept a cheap job. Those places are the ones that you could believe know how to match paint colors and do an excellent job.
Ask the local Corvette club who some of the bodyshops they recommend are. You'd be surprised you probably never heard of them!
There is a switch in the latch. It is either broken or corroded. Could be wires too.
Regards:
Oldengineer
AutoZone and PepBoys carriy Mobile1 OW-20. No problem.
Regards,
OW
Hi guys, have CRV for a week now. Went on long drive, turned on heater, vents set to floor and face, noticed hot air blowing to floor and cold air blowing to face, it was very uncomfortable for me. Took to dealer, the service rep gave physics class and explains cold air comes down and hot air rises so it would "mix" well.
Sounds logical. But I dont buy it, because it is very uncomfortable. The floor got very warm and hands and face was chill. Apparently its as designed and couple other customers complained. Am I one the very few that disagree with Honda's physics? :mad: Would really appreciate your thoughts.
Physics 101 - design something in Common Sense or no customer.
Regards:
OldCEM
I would go to the dealers and test out a similar car on the parking lot. This does not sound right.
I use Fram but last change they had a discount on a Mobile1 filter so I went for it.
Regards,
OW