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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    Most of my CR-V's trips will be interstate driving - I'm using it for business travel primarily. I run the miles up fast - the 08 Aura I traded off had 43K on it. Seemed like I was changing the oil every month.

    Regards:
    OldCEM
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    So far in interstate travel, 27 mpg can be maintained from my experience. Not bad but certainly not the best.

    Regards,
    OW
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    Are you talking AWD and 70-75mph? I can't do that much over 24.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Yep, and no more than 70 mph and light on the gas. After it breaks in, you will see.

    Regards,
    OW
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    Mine's a 2WD - so there's hope that it might actually hit its 28 MPG highway number.

    Regards:
    OldCEM
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Sorry posted in wrong section earlier:
    Hi guys, have CRV for a week now. Went on long drive, turned on heater, vents set to floor and face, noticed hot air blowing to floor and cold air blowing to face, it was very uncomfortable for me. Took to dealer, the service rep gave physics class and explains cold air comes down and hot air rises so it would "mix" well.

    Sounds logical. But I dont buy it, because it is very uncomfortable. The floor got very warm and hands and face was chill. Apparently its as designed and couple other customers complained. Am I one the very few that disagree with Honda's physics? Would really appreciate your thoughts.


    It has been like that on EVERY Honda I have owned, starting with 1985 Civic.

    I am pretty sure it is also covered in the OWNER's MANUAL.

    The logic is physiological. Warm feet will make a human feel warmer, however, a warm face will make a human sleepier.

    If you think the air coming from the "face" vents is too cold, select just "feet" and the wamer air will rise and warm the face, or select "feet/windshield" to deflect the cooler air before it reaches the face.

    Unless you wear glasses, having the "face" vents blow in your face will dry out your eyes pretty fast, and will make you feel tired.

    If you really think the air coming from the "face" vents is significantly cooler than the "feet" vents, there is a test Honda dealer can perform with 2 thermo couples. It is outlined in the Shop Manual.

    Good luck.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Thanks, OW, No pepboys in our state, but, Advance Auto's website indicates that they carry the Mobil. I like Castrol better, but, nobody here carries their synthetic yet in the 0W-20. I really like the CR-V - just hope its fuel economy improves. Which brand of oil filters do you use on yours?

    Regards:
    OldCEM


    I didn't know Honda switched from 5W-20 to 0W-20 on the CR-V, it used to be reserved for the Hybrids only.

    Chances are that Castrol does not have 0W-20 because most of Castrol Syntec sold in the US is not Synthetic oil, but rather highly purified dynasaurus oil. In order for an oil to pass the 0W-20 qualification it has to meet certain viscosity criteria, which fake synthetics can't pass.

    Castrol Syntec 0W-40 is the only true Group IV synthetic oil from Castrol in the US. It usually says "Made in Germany" on the package.

    Mobil 1 0W-20 has been aorund since year 2000, or so. They have recently repackaged it as "green" oil, since it is specified for most hybrids.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    I don't know what blueed is talking about, any honda I've ever had when you select floor and face, it's just directing the airflow where you want it to go regardless of temperature. So no it's not a special "feature" at all

    I agree with Mr. Shiftright, you need to either go to another dealership who knows what they're talking about and you need to check other CRV's.. That's not correct at all.

    The failure is probably in the hvac box, where the temperature blend door is, allowing the hot air to reach the floor vents, but not able to reach the vent/face air blend door.

    You should select between different modes and temps to see if you can hear the door moving, while you're in the footwell area, listening carefully. I bet you won't hear movement correctly when you select the face/floor mode.
  • terryp1terryp1 Member Posts: 55
    The hottest air is blowing from the dealership. The only principles of physics you should consider are these: If there is a big difference in temperature between upper and lower vents, the system is malfunctioning; if the dealer insists it's simply a matter of physics, then you and your bodies become moving objects and change location to another shop.
    Hot air comes out of the upper vents of my '07 CR-V, my ancient Civic, my old Legend, and the two Accords I've owned. The air blows through what amounts to a radiator behind the dashboard and then splits as its goes through ducts to vents upper and lower.
    If there is more than a couple or few degrees difference then something is malfunctioning.
    Call Honda customer service in California and ask them if the dealer is right.
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    My CRV blows hot out of both vents. I seem to recall GM used to have a setting called bi-level years back that actually did blow cooler out of the dash vents. The concept was that with the sun beating on you it made sense to have the vents blow cooler up high and warmer down by your feet. As I recall, it actually worked pretty well.
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    Castrol's website indicates that they have a 0W-20 synthetic, but, nobody in my area carries it. I was a bit surprised when I popped the hood on the CR-V and the oil cap indicated 0W-20 as the oil to use. Guess I'll be using etiher the Mobil stuff, or, Honda's 0W-20 when oil change time rolls around. We've put 1400 miles on the CR-V since Black Friday.

    Regards:
    OldCEM
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    What happens when raining, snowing, cloudy, overcast and at night?
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    0W20 is used is simply for getting better EPA Mileage than using 10W30 which can be bought almost anywhere.

    Is there anything wrong by changing to 10W30? I don't think so. Will it void the warranty? Maybe and maybe not. To find out call Honda America HQ.But I don't think Honda will admit the first sentence I just said.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The only thing you have to watch out for on some modern cars, if you use too heavy an oil in a very cold climate, is that it might interfere in the proper execution of variable valve timing.
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    What happens when raining, snowing, cloudy, overcast and at night?

    You'd just use a different setting. Personally, I don't like heat vents blowing hot air on my face. The GM bi-level worked best when it was sunny, but bitter cold. You'd have the lower heat on high, but your upper body could get too warm from the hot heater setting and the sun heat build up in the window exposed parts of the car, so in those cases you'd choose this setting. I think it was just one of those casualties of cost cutting. like the old extra AC vents at the lower part of the dash.
  • dtstofdtstof Member Posts: 61
    I tried that on my 2007 and had warm air coming out both ways. I will try it again to verify.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    All the vents have outlet directional adjustment (up, down, left, right), so never the warm air will blow to your face if you don't want to ...
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    The manual for my 2010 shows the only acceptable weight of oil as 0w-20. I've also seen a couple of articles on the internet that indicate, on tight clearance engines like the Hondas, heavier weights of oil may not lubricate the rod and main bearings well. The proper functioning of the I-Vetec system is another concern. I'm going to stick with 0W-20 as Honda prescibes.

    Regards:
    OldCEM
  • baydrivebaydrive Member Posts: 48
    I picked up my 2010 CR-V yesterday!!! I have been reading the manual and I feel a bit intimidated. I see that there is no schedule of maintenance based on miles......simply on computer prompts. I assume that most new cars operate this way, but it is foreign to me. I have always had the oil changed in my cars every 3500 miles or so. I drive a ton of miles so it equals out to an oil change every 6 weeks. I am confused as to how the computer calibrates the need for service. Is it on a mile sensor is does it actually calibrate how "good" the oil and other fluids are so that it alerts you at different mile intervals. If it is the latter, how effective is this system? Should I just go by miles or wait for the sensor?

    I have great mechanics that I have always brought my car to so I am not planning on bringing the car to a Honda dealership for routine maintenance. I assume that they will be used to these computers in new cars. Also, from the previous posts, I will be sure to tell them to use OW-20 oil .
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Always felt the same but now follow the computer-generated rec. for oil changes. I use M1 5W-20 on this 2008. So far, 2 oil changes and have 17K miles. The only other maintenance I've done is rotate the tires so far.

    Enjoy and best of luck!

    Regards,
    OW
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'd wait for the sensor, but I got over the "every 3,000 miles" stuff a couple of decades ago. My intervals are 5 to 7,500 miles on my (non-Honda) rides. I don't drive many miles but I drive them forever.

    One thing that may interest you would be to get an oil analysis done. They cost about $25 and the lab should tell you how much useful life your oil has, and you can compare that to the oil indicator.
  • markayo1markayo1 Member Posts: 23
    I have a 2009 Honda CRV EX-L without navigation. I bought a Garmin GPS and was wondering what would be the best mount for the GPS ? I was leaning toward the Garmin friction dash mount that forms to the dash, however I am not sure it will fit or stay on the dash because it is not smooth. Does anyone have any experience with this ? Please advise.
  • sr146260211sr146260211 Member Posts: 55
    I have a 17 incher on my 2010 CR-V and tried the bean bag on top of the dash but it raddled too much for my taste, so I used the included round adhesive disk that came with my Magellan and stuck it on the driver side door close to the front window (Opposite to the side view mirror) on the smooth part, and making sure it does not get hit when closing the door. This way its closer to the driver and does not get in the way of a clear front view.

    Hope I explained it well enough ;)
  • sr146260211sr146260211 Member Posts: 55
    Whoops, I meant 7 inch not 17 :blush:
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    A bean bag mount works well for a standard size GPS device. It's also easy to store out of sight when appropriate. Mine never moves and is silent.

    I guess some people get the suction cup method to work, but I've seen too many failures to have any confidence in it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm also not keen on the suction mount because it leaves a tell-tale mark on the windshield which tells thieves you have a removable GPS. I use a friction mount and that seems to be the best compromise for me.
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    I've got a Garmin 255 equipped with the Garmin beanbag mount. It stays put on the top of my CR-V's dash just fine.

    Regards:
    OldCEM
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    In most cars I've owned, I find that when I've selected floor & dash vents, that hte floor vents are always a little hotter than hte air out of the dash vents. I believe this is because the length of the ducts are shorter to the floor vents, so the air is not cooeld off as much. I think the mix box may also bais warm air towards the floor. Most people's feet are colder than their upper body, so I think more warm air is intentionally directed that way. But again, it's probably mostly due to the length opf ducts.

    Try putting the fan on a lower setting and set the heat to about 1/4. You'll feel some warm air to the floor, but cool air to the dash vents. EVERY car I've ever owned si like this, so I assume it's intented ot be this way... and I don;t mind, because again, my feet get colder than my upper body when I have a coat on. Also the floor gets wet and benfits from warm air even in mild weather.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I don't know what blueed is talking about, any honda I've ever had when you select floor and face, it's just directing the airflow where you want it to go regardless of temperature. So no it's not a special "feature" at all

    I agree with Mr. Shiftright, you need to either go to another dealership who knows what they're talking about and you need to check other CRV's.. That's not correct at all.

    The failure is probably in the hvac box, where the temperature blend door is, allowing the hot air to reach the floor vents, but not able to reach the vent/face air blend door.

    You should select between different modes and temps to see if you can hear the door moving, while you're in the footwell area, listening carefully. I bet you won't hear movement correctly when you select the face/floor mode.


    Just because you don't feel it does not mean it is not there. Get a digital themometer with 2 thermocouples, or 2 decent digital thermometers, and verify for your self. Just make sure you set the temperature dial at less than "full blast heat"

    I am surprized the OWNER's MANUAL does not explain this.

    Another peculiarity with Honda HVAC system is that the side face vents will take allow some of the outside air in, even if the driver selected "recirc" and need to be closed manually to completely seal off the car from the outside.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My CRV blows hot out of both vents. I seem to recall GM used to have a setting called bi-level years back that actually did blow cooler out of the dash vents. The concept was that with the sun beating on you it made sense to have the vents blow cooler up high and warmer down by your feet. As I recall, it actually worked pretty well.

    If I am not mistaken, GM's Bi0:ev is the same as Honda's "face/feet"
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Is there anything wrong by changing to 10W30? I don't think so.

    You may not think so, but people who have used "better" oils have reported higher incidents of VTEC solenoid failure.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    What happens when raining, snowing, cloudy, overcast and at night?

    The automatic dual climate control systems on Acuras use GPS signal to determine which side of the car is exposed to the sun during the day and lowers the temperature on that side. It does not account for clouds, and turns off at night.
  • nayaknayak Member Posts: 16
    All,

    My first oil change came up at about 10K miles. And now the CRV maintenance system is stating that I need to go for the next service (at 10%). According to the Honda service advisor, this service should be the "B" service which costs about $120. Service "B" includes the following:
    1. Replace engine oil anf filter
    2. Inspect Front and Rear Brakes
    3. Check Parking Brake Adjustment
    4. Inspect the following:
    a) Tie Rod Ends, Steering Gear Box, and Boots
    b) Suspension Components
    c) Driveshaft Boots
    d) Brake Hoses and Lines (including ABS)
    e) All Fluid Levels and condition of fluids
    f) Exhaust System
    g) Fuel Lines and Connections.

    Do you guys recommend going for the B service or just do a regular oil/filter change and tire rotation (I think they throw that in w/oil change)? If I can just do the regular oil/filter change and tire rotation for now, when do you think I should do a major maintenance?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's a lot of money to pay someone to lift a car up and shine a flashlight around.

    I'd just do the oil and filter and have you or someone else check the fluids.
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    A competent local idependan shop should prefrm those other items for free with an oil change. Why? Because maybe 10% of the time they inspect a vehcile, they discover an issue. Not only is that good for the customer to discover a problem early, it provides additonal business.
  • baydrivebaydrive Member Posts: 48
    I have a brand new 2010 CR-V. I have been having fun driving it but I am having a hard time adjusting to the computerized gauges and read-outs. I notice that my temperature gauge is consistently reading at 2 notches below the middle......to the cooler side. The owners manual says that the gauge should read in the middle. I am assuming that they mean the "middle range" and to the cooler side would be OK. But now I am not sure if my assumption is correct. I plan on calling the dealer this afternoon but I would like some informed opinions before talking to the service tech.

    On another note. I had a Subaru before this car. The Subaru's AWD system was great in snow. I got a chance to test out the CR-V's AWD since we got a significant amount of snow over the last few days. The car is remarkably stable and responsive, so I am very pleased.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I don't have the 2010 OWNER's MANUAL, but the 2005's says that as long as the gauge stays between the blue (too cold) and red (too hot) zones it is fine.

    The gauges in many modern cars are buffered, and as you said "computerized." If you want to get the accurate and up-to-date information, try ScanGauge. It plugs into the OBDII port and you can set it up to read out whatever information the computer receives.

    Accordging to scangauge the engine coolant temperature fluctuates between 177°F and 190°F, but the water temperature gaues in the dash does not reflect those changes, ever.

    If you want to have fun with the CR-V, go to a snow covered parking lot, away from poles, people and cars. Turn off the VSC. Put the vehicle in 1st gear. Turn the steering wheel to one side to almost full lock. And jab the gas pedal...

    The front wheels will slip, sending the power to the back, and will turn the CR-V into a "drifto machine"

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6qxbyUlRz4
  • plum_ternplum_tern Member Posts: 2
    I have noticed the same temperature gauge reading - to the left of center, two notches!
    Seems to me that the vehicle takes longer to start to warm up - at least longer than any other car/CRV I have had. And that means that the car interior is cooler for a longer time. And now that the cool season is upon me, the mpg seems to have dropped off more than I would have expected. That would be consistent with the engine "throttle" being too wide.
    Could it be a defective thermostat?

    When I take in in for its first oil change I will ask the dealer, but I would be interested in sharing what we - and others - find out.

    I do really like the car!
  • baydrivebaydrive Member Posts: 48
    Plum Tern,I called the dealer and they told me that the gauges are set to a notch or so under the middle. I don't know if that is right or not, so I would be interested in hearing what your dealer says when you bring your car in for servicing. Unlike your car,my CR-V seems to warm up pretty fast and the interior feels very toasty (presently it is about 20 degrees out). I have driven about 700 miles so far and the mpg seems to be around 24 or 25. That is mostly highway and about 30% around town.I think that number is pretty good considering that the car was in it's break-in period.

    Let me know how you make out at the dealer. I really like this car also!
  • plum_ternplum_tern Member Posts: 2
    Baydrive
    Thanks for the perspective.
    I wll not get to the dealer for an oil change and gauge check until January, so please "standy by."
    A longer drive this weekend may clarify mpg issues as well.
  • warrenwlamwarrenwlam Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a new CRV. I plan to change the oil myself. How do I reset the maintenance reminder after the oil change? Is it automatically done?
    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That should be something you can do. Check in your owner's manual for the procedure, as 2010 vehicles may be different from previous yearsI can only give you 2009:

    Resetting the Oil Life Display

    NOTE:

    * The vehicle must be stopped to reset the display. If a required service is done and the display is not reset, or if the maintenance display is reset without doing the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance timing. This can lead to serious mechanical problems because there will be no accurate record of when the required maintenance is needed.
    * The engine oil life and the maintenance items can be reset independently only with the HDS.

    1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)/
    2. Push and release the Select/Reset knob repeatedly until the engine oil life indicator is displayed.
    3. Press and hold the Select/Reset knob for about 10 seconds. The information display shows the reset mode display.

    NOTE: If you are resetting the display when the engine oil life is more than 15%, make sure any maintenance item(s) requiring service are done before resetting the display.

    4. Press and hold the Select/Reset knob again for about another 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will disappear, and the engine oil life will reset to "100".

    VISITING HOST
  • dagwood2dagwood2 Member Posts: 7
    If the vehicle is truly taking a long time to warm up, (not just your perception) then it most likely is a thermostat that is stuck open. About the only negative side effect of that is that the vehicle takes longer to warm up in winter. It would have no impact whatsoever on the final gauge reading once the vehicle has warmed up.
  • warrenwlamwarrenwlam Member Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for the info. I used to have a Honda Civic and I forgot that was the way I used to reset the maintanence reminder.
  • zeenzeen Member Posts: 401
    They wanted $220 at my dealer for the 20k service. I had them do the oil change and tire rotation only and I did the filters and saved about $90. The filters (engine and cabin air) were available at my local Advance Auto for about $15 each made by Purolator. Replacement took 5 minutes for each. The Youtube videos didn't seem to helpful, especially for the 2008 but it really was easy.
  • cinglemomcinglemom Member Posts: 49
    I have a 2008 CRV and I changed my engine and cabin filters also. I got my information at eHow.com, its a great site. The explain in detail
  • datsmo633datsmo633 Member Posts: 1
    I really hope you don't change your own oil. I see a recipe for disaster. For future reference, the owner's manual to ANY vehicle is nearly worthless. A factory service manual, however, is very helpful to a seasoned mechanic.

    Timing chains are not lifetime items. They are metal, they wear on metal or plastic gears. THEY WILL WEAR OUT, PERIOD. THEY NEED REPLACEMENT AT CERTAIN INTERVALS. Granted, they can be run for exceptionally long periods of time without fail, but regardless are a wear item. As the chain slackens due to use, the top half of the motor and the bottom half will not be as in-time as they once were.

    Timing belt replacement can be anywhere from 50k-100k miles.

    Timing chain replacement is generally every 100k miles to keep a nice, tight chain, or as the manufacturer suggests.

    If they say it will never wear out, they are wrong. It may last long enough for you to sell it, but it's Russian roulette at that point.

    As with anything, free advice on the Internet is exactly that. Anonymous and free. Questions like this are better answered on a dedicated forum to whichever vehicle you happen to be working on, or to a local repair shop with a good reputation. And of course the dealer who sold you the vehicle.

    And for those of you who don't understand, the timing chain keeps the rotating parts in the upper half of the motor (cylinder head) from colliding with the rotating parts in the lower half (engine block). Hence TIMING chain. When a chain breaks, it generally sends open intake and exhaust valves to meet the pistons, the result of which is bent valves, broken or nicked pistons, head rebuilds, and other costly engine repair. It's basic mechanics.

    Or to put it another way, say you're driving down the road and your front wheels are rotating at the same speed as the rear wheels. Great! What happens if your front wheels decide to operate at half speed or not at all? By the same instance in the motor, two rotating circles need to rotate together or they don't work.

    Unless of course you're doing a brake stand. :D
  • jaba88jaba88 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 2002 Honda CR-V. I was attempting to replace her factory radio with an after market product. Removed old radio and connected new one using a wiring harness. First test worked perfectly - new radio operated correctly, speakers worked, etc. Removed radio to put on mounting ears and finish the job. I now have 2 problems:

    1. There no longer appears to be any power to the radio. I have reconnected both the new one and the old factory unit and neither will power up. I have checked the fuse for the radio and it is OK.

    2. When the ignition key is turned to the accessory power position an audible clicking can be heard from the speedometer area for about 3 to 5 seconds. The speedometer needle also vibrates while this clicking sound is happening. This is happening regardless of whether the old or new radio is installed or not installed. Car starts just fine, and the clicking stops every time after being in the accessory position for 3 to 5 seconds.

    I am assuming the 2 issues are related. Any ideas on what may be wrong? Thanks in advance.
  • markayo1markayo1 Member Posts: 23
    I was thinking about having a air deflector put on my 2009 CRV ? Any suggestions or comments. Is it better to have a Honda place put it on ? I got a price of $200 installed.
  • caradiodoccaradiodoc Member Posts: 4
    Logic would dictate there are two fuses since there are two power circuits. One turns the radio on when the ignition switch is on, and one is hot all the time to maintain station presets and the clock.

    You should also be aware of the goofy charging system on Hondas. Everything electrical is monitored, then the charging system provides the exact amount of current needed to run everything and recharge the battery, and no more. Not sure what the problem was, but they found a solution to it. Your new radio will not be included in this silly calculation so over time the battery will become discharged. Don't be surprised if you have to put a battery charger on it every month or two. This might not apply if you used only the wires in the original radio conector and didn't run any extra power or ground wires.

    caradiodoc
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