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Comments
Regards:
OldCEM
Regards,
OW
Regards,
OW
Regards:
OldCEM
Hi guys, have CRV for a week now. Went on long drive, turned on heater, vents set to floor and face, noticed hot air blowing to floor and cold air blowing to face, it was very uncomfortable for me. Took to dealer, the service rep gave physics class and explains cold air comes down and hot air rises so it would "mix" well.
Sounds logical. But I dont buy it, because it is very uncomfortable. The floor got very warm and hands and face was chill. Apparently its as designed and couple other customers complained. Am I one the very few that disagree with Honda's physics? Would really appreciate your thoughts.
It has been like that on EVERY Honda I have owned, starting with 1985 Civic.
I am pretty sure it is also covered in the OWNER's MANUAL.
The logic is physiological. Warm feet will make a human feel warmer, however, a warm face will make a human sleepier.
If you think the air coming from the "face" vents is too cold, select just "feet" and the wamer air will rise and warm the face, or select "feet/windshield" to deflect the cooler air before it reaches the face.
Unless you wear glasses, having the "face" vents blow in your face will dry out your eyes pretty fast, and will make you feel tired.
If you really think the air coming from the "face" vents is significantly cooler than the "feet" vents, there is a test Honda dealer can perform with 2 thermo couples. It is outlined in the Shop Manual.
Good luck.
Regards:
OldCEM
I didn't know Honda switched from 5W-20 to 0W-20 on the CR-V, it used to be reserved for the Hybrids only.
Chances are that Castrol does not have 0W-20 because most of Castrol Syntec sold in the US is not Synthetic oil, but rather highly purified dynasaurus oil. In order for an oil to pass the 0W-20 qualification it has to meet certain viscosity criteria, which fake synthetics can't pass.
Castrol Syntec 0W-40 is the only true Group IV synthetic oil from Castrol in the US. It usually says "Made in Germany" on the package.
Mobil 1 0W-20 has been aorund since year 2000, or so. They have recently repackaged it as "green" oil, since it is specified for most hybrids.
I agree with Mr. Shiftright, you need to either go to another dealership who knows what they're talking about and you need to check other CRV's.. That's not correct at all.
The failure is probably in the hvac box, where the temperature blend door is, allowing the hot air to reach the floor vents, but not able to reach the vent/face air blend door.
You should select between different modes and temps to see if you can hear the door moving, while you're in the footwell area, listening carefully. I bet you won't hear movement correctly when you select the face/floor mode.
Hot air comes out of the upper vents of my '07 CR-V, my ancient Civic, my old Legend, and the two Accords I've owned. The air blows through what amounts to a radiator behind the dashboard and then splits as its goes through ducts to vents upper and lower.
If there is more than a couple or few degrees difference then something is malfunctioning.
Call Honda customer service in California and ask them if the dealer is right.
Regards:
OldCEM
Is there anything wrong by changing to 10W30? I don't think so. Will it void the warranty? Maybe and maybe not. To find out call Honda America HQ.But I don't think Honda will admit the first sentence I just said.
You'd just use a different setting. Personally, I don't like heat vents blowing hot air on my face. The GM bi-level worked best when it was sunny, but bitter cold. You'd have the lower heat on high, but your upper body could get too warm from the hot heater setting and the sun heat build up in the window exposed parts of the car, so in those cases you'd choose this setting. I think it was just one of those casualties of cost cutting. like the old extra AC vents at the lower part of the dash.
Regards:
OldCEM
I have great mechanics that I have always brought my car to so I am not planning on bringing the car to a Honda dealership for routine maintenance. I assume that they will be used to these computers in new cars. Also, from the previous posts, I will be sure to tell them to use OW-20 oil .
Enjoy and best of luck!
Regards,
OW
One thing that may interest you would be to get an oil analysis done. They cost about $25 and the lab should tell you how much useful life your oil has, and you can compare that to the oil indicator.
Hope I explained it well enough
I guess some people get the suction cup method to work, but I've seen too many failures to have any confidence in it.
Regards:
OldCEM
Try putting the fan on a lower setting and set the heat to about 1/4. You'll feel some warm air to the floor, but cool air to the dash vents. EVERY car I've ever owned si like this, so I assume it's intented ot be this way... and I don;t mind, because again, my feet get colder than my upper body when I have a coat on. Also the floor gets wet and benfits from warm air even in mild weather.
I agree with Mr. Shiftright, you need to either go to another dealership who knows what they're talking about and you need to check other CRV's.. That's not correct at all.
The failure is probably in the hvac box, where the temperature blend door is, allowing the hot air to reach the floor vents, but not able to reach the vent/face air blend door.
You should select between different modes and temps to see if you can hear the door moving, while you're in the footwell area, listening carefully. I bet you won't hear movement correctly when you select the face/floor mode.
Just because you don't feel it does not mean it is not there. Get a digital themometer with 2 thermocouples, or 2 decent digital thermometers, and verify for your self. Just make sure you set the temperature dial at less than "full blast heat"
I am surprized the OWNER's MANUAL does not explain this.
Another peculiarity with Honda HVAC system is that the side face vents will take allow some of the outside air in, even if the driver selected "recirc" and need to be closed manually to completely seal off the car from the outside.
If I am not mistaken, GM's Bi0:ev is the same as Honda's "face/feet"
You may not think so, but people who have used "better" oils have reported higher incidents of VTEC solenoid failure.
The automatic dual climate control systems on Acuras use GPS signal to determine which side of the car is exposed to the sun during the day and lowers the temperature on that side. It does not account for clouds, and turns off at night.
My first oil change came up at about 10K miles. And now the CRV maintenance system is stating that I need to go for the next service (at 10%). According to the Honda service advisor, this service should be the "B" service which costs about $120. Service "B" includes the following:
1. Replace engine oil anf filter
2. Inspect Front and Rear Brakes
3. Check Parking Brake Adjustment
4. Inspect the following:
a) Tie Rod Ends, Steering Gear Box, and Boots
b) Suspension Components
c) Driveshaft Boots
d) Brake Hoses and Lines (including ABS)
e) All Fluid Levels and condition of fluids
f) Exhaust System
g) Fuel Lines and Connections.
Do you guys recommend going for the B service or just do a regular oil/filter change and tire rotation (I think they throw that in w/oil change)? If I can just do the regular oil/filter change and tire rotation for now, when do you think I should do a major maintenance?
I'd just do the oil and filter and have you or someone else check the fluids.
On another note. I had a Subaru before this car. The Subaru's AWD system was great in snow. I got a chance to test out the CR-V's AWD since we got a significant amount of snow over the last few days. The car is remarkably stable and responsive, so I am very pleased.
The gauges in many modern cars are buffered, and as you said "computerized." If you want to get the accurate and up-to-date information, try ScanGauge. It plugs into the OBDII port and you can set it up to read out whatever information the computer receives.
Accordging to scangauge the engine coolant temperature fluctuates between 177°F and 190°F, but the water temperature gaues in the dash does not reflect those changes, ever.
If you want to have fun with the CR-V, go to a snow covered parking lot, away from poles, people and cars. Turn off the VSC. Put the vehicle in 1st gear. Turn the steering wheel to one side to almost full lock. And jab the gas pedal...
The front wheels will slip, sending the power to the back, and will turn the CR-V into a "drifto machine"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6qxbyUlRz4
Seems to me that the vehicle takes longer to start to warm up - at least longer than any other car/CRV I have had. And that means that the car interior is cooler for a longer time. And now that the cool season is upon me, the mpg seems to have dropped off more than I would have expected. That would be consistent with the engine "throttle" being too wide.
Could it be a defective thermostat?
When I take in in for its first oil change I will ask the dealer, but I would be interested in sharing what we - and others - find out.
I do really like the car!
Let me know how you make out at the dealer. I really like this car also!
Thanks for the perspective.
I wll not get to the dealer for an oil change and gauge check until January, so please "standy by."
A longer drive this weekend may clarify mpg issues as well.
Thanks.
Resetting the Oil Life Display
NOTE:
* The vehicle must be stopped to reset the display. If a required service is done and the display is not reset, or if the maintenance display is reset without doing the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance timing. This can lead to serious mechanical problems because there will be no accurate record of when the required maintenance is needed.
* The engine oil life and the maintenance items can be reset independently only with the HDS.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)/
2. Push and release the Select/Reset knob repeatedly until the engine oil life indicator is displayed.
3. Press and hold the Select/Reset knob for about 10 seconds. The information display shows the reset mode display.
NOTE: If you are resetting the display when the engine oil life is more than 15%, make sure any maintenance item(s) requiring service are done before resetting the display.
4. Press and hold the Select/Reset knob again for about another 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will disappear, and the engine oil life will reset to "100".
VISITING HOST
Timing chains are not lifetime items. They are metal, they wear on metal or plastic gears. THEY WILL WEAR OUT, PERIOD. THEY NEED REPLACEMENT AT CERTAIN INTERVALS. Granted, they can be run for exceptionally long periods of time without fail, but regardless are a wear item. As the chain slackens due to use, the top half of the motor and the bottom half will not be as in-time as they once were.
Timing belt replacement can be anywhere from 50k-100k miles.
Timing chain replacement is generally every 100k miles to keep a nice, tight chain, or as the manufacturer suggests.
If they say it will never wear out, they are wrong. It may last long enough for you to sell it, but it's Russian roulette at that point.
As with anything, free advice on the Internet is exactly that. Anonymous and free. Questions like this are better answered on a dedicated forum to whichever vehicle you happen to be working on, or to a local repair shop with a good reputation. And of course the dealer who sold you the vehicle.
And for those of you who don't understand, the timing chain keeps the rotating parts in the upper half of the motor (cylinder head) from colliding with the rotating parts in the lower half (engine block). Hence TIMING chain. When a chain breaks, it generally sends open intake and exhaust valves to meet the pistons, the result of which is bent valves, broken or nicked pistons, head rebuilds, and other costly engine repair. It's basic mechanics.
Or to put it another way, say you're driving down the road and your front wheels are rotating at the same speed as the rear wheels. Great! What happens if your front wheels decide to operate at half speed or not at all? By the same instance in the motor, two rotating circles need to rotate together or they don't work.
Unless of course you're doing a brake stand.
1. There no longer appears to be any power to the radio. I have reconnected both the new one and the old factory unit and neither will power up. I have checked the fuse for the radio and it is OK.
2. When the ignition key is turned to the accessory power position an audible clicking can be heard from the speedometer area for about 3 to 5 seconds. The speedometer needle also vibrates while this clicking sound is happening. This is happening regardless of whether the old or new radio is installed or not installed. Car starts just fine, and the clicking stops every time after being in the accessory position for 3 to 5 seconds.
I am assuming the 2 issues are related. Any ideas on what may be wrong? Thanks in advance.
You should also be aware of the goofy charging system on Hondas. Everything electrical is monitored, then the charging system provides the exact amount of current needed to run everything and recharge the battery, and no more. Not sure what the problem was, but they found a solution to it. Your new radio will not be included in this silly calculation so over time the battery will become discharged. Don't be surprised if you have to put a battery charger on it every month or two. This might not apply if you used only the wires in the original radio conector and didn't run any extra power or ground wires.
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