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1. There no longer appears to be any power to the radio. I have reconnected both the new one and the old factory unit and neither will power up. I have checked the fuse for the radio and it is OK.
2. When the ignition key is turned to the accessory power position an audible clicking can be heard from the speedometer area for about 3 to 5 seconds. The speedometer needle also vibrates while this clicking sound is happening. This is happening regardless of whether the old or new radio is installed or not installed. Car starts just fine, and the clicking stops every time after being in the accessory position for 3 to 5 seconds.
I am assuming the 2 issues are related. Any ideas on what may be wrong? Thanks in advance.
Did you disconnect the battery when you installed the new radio?
Did you use a harness adapter? Did you match the wires based on color, or function? Or did yo just clip the OEM harness?
The radio has 2 power circuits, make sure both fuses are good. Not 100% sure if the "always on" circuit powers the cluster, but worth checking the "meter" fuse.
Good luck.
Lorenzo
With parts, you can order a "clutch kit" which should contain pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bushing, and throwout bearing and if you're lucky, a clutch alignment tool (cheap thing made out of wood). If there is no alignment tool, buy one.
So to summarize:
repair manual
clutch kit
car jack preferably a floor jack that can go up high enough.
jack stands
transmission jack
proper tools (extensions, pilot bushing extractor, alignment tool)
safety goggles
NOTE: you will be asked to inspect the flywheel for gouging, burning, and cracks. Please do so and be prepared to remove it if it doesn't look good---very important to ward off "clutch chatter".
If cost savings is the main reason for taking it to Walmart, change the oil your self. The oil can be found for Free After Rebate, so are filters. The crush washers are $0.25 at the dealer, $0.10 at auto parts stores.
CR-V is high enough that it does not require lifting to get under it (given that the person has not been consuming lots and lots of beer in the last 10-20 years).
I would not use any of those "oil leak sealers" as they are nothing more than snake oils.
My wife bumped 2008 Honda CRV into a lamp post while backing out. As a result, the panel between the rear door and bumper has partially come out. Now I see a visible gap next to the bumper, and overlapping panels behind the rear door.
Is this something I can attempt to fix myself, or do I need to go to a body shop? Does anyone have instructions on fitting panels? TIA.
I'm replying to an older post of mine from 7/21/2009 when my dad's CR-V was at 62553 miles. In that post, I was wondering about what I should do next. Since then, at 63,662 miles, I had the oil change done along with a battery test and 19pt inspection (where everything was fine) all from the dealer for $30 even. A tire rotation for $19.95 was recommended (something I wouldn't do, I'll explain why below) along with the air filter/pollen filter for $154.95 (something else I woudn't pay them to do) and trans service for $90 (something I'm not sure about in general ).
I've been trying to take care of the maintenance myself as much as I can, and wherever possible, cutting corners to keep the costs down.
Unfortunately, my I believe dad just killed my "not-overpaying" streak by taking the car in for service yesterday to the dealer and paying about $250 to get the air filter, cabin air filter, differential service and oil change done. the car was at 73,390 miles at the time of service.
I would have done the cabin air filter and the air filter myself for I think around $40 total (the cost of the filters). I usually either order from www.handa-accessories.com/ or get the dealer to match the price. I know the filters were supposed to be changed at 60k so we were late on that.
I thought I saw on the Edmunds Maintenance Guide that the differential service is done at 90k, and should be pretty cheap. I think I've read that it's supposed to cost less than $20 to do (it's easier than engine oil to change right?). What are the details on this? I believe this is the first time we've dealt with this.
I'm not sure if the detailed inspection that the 60k service covers was done too as part of the $250 my dad paid, but usually I pay $20 to firestone and I think that covers everything.
Oil change is something I know I should be able to do myself but I still haven't gotten around to learning how to do it. I think I've been paying $25ish on average to have dealer do it. Sometimes it includes a tire rotation, but since I had all 4 of my tires replaced at walmart back in 2009 (w/ 4 Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza 225/65R17 tires, on or around 57,650 miles) I get my tires rotated and balanced for free now every so many miles (last time this was done was on 12/30/2009 when car was at 71609 miles, which I know is a long time to go w/out a tire rotation or balance).
The one last thing I'm confused about is the Trans service (89.95) that was originally recommended at the 63,662 visit. According to the Edmunds maintenance, this is done at 120k.
sorry for the long post but there's a lot I'm wondering. I'm hoping the info shared will help other CR-V owners too.
Replace the Automatic Transission fluid if you have 30,000 miles on it.
Replace the Rear differential fluid.
I thought the transmission fluid was good for 120k miles and the rear diffential fluid
didn't have to be done til 90k miles?
Also, thanks for the heads up on the:
Bleed the brakes and replace the brake fluid every 3 years, regardless of mileage.
Replace the Power steering fluid every 3 years.
The 2007 AWD Honda CR-V my dad bought new in Spring 2007 is approaching 3 years. We'll look into these services soon. The car's at a little over 73,390 miles now
At our local honda dealers, I usually pay $25-30ish for the oil change and it often includes a tire rotation along with an inspection (I believe a 19pt). For the filters, I'll usually buy them from handa-accessories.com or get a local dealer to match their price (so I can save on shipping). Then I'll do them myself. The filters are around $40 I think.
You listed out all the things they were going to inspect at 20k:
2. Inspect Front and Rear Brakes
3. Check Parking Brake Adjustment
4. Inspect the following:
a) Tie Rod Ends, Steering Gear Box, and Boots
b) Suspension Components
c) Driveshaft Boots
d) Brake Hoses and Lines (including ABS)
e) All Fluid Levels and condition of fluids
f) Exhaust System
g) Fuel Lines and Connections.
I mentioned the inspection that I usually get done by the dealer w/ an oil change depending on the coupon I have at the time. The other place I frequently go to is Firestone. They usually inspect for free or for $20 they do a in depth inspection that I believe covers everything that the in-depth 30k service requires.
Is this case with later CR-V's?
My father has the 2007 AWD CR-V and I'm not sure what the manual says, but Edmunds Maintenance site (http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/select.html) says that it has to be done at 90k for our car. However the dealer did just do it at 73,390k
But my sister is now driving the 2004 I4 Accord that I purchased back in April 2004 new. The car is at 151481 miles and I believe has a timing chain. I've never done anything with it though.
Replace the Automatic Transission fluid if you have 30,000 miles on it.
Replace the Rear differential fluid.
I thought the transmission fluid was good for 120k miles and the rear diffential fluid
didn't have to be done til 90k miles?
Also, thanks for the heads up on the:
Bleed the brakes and replace the brake fluid every 3 years, regardless of mileage.
Replace the Power steering fluid every 3 years.
The 2007 AWD Honda CR-V my dad bought new in Spring 2007 is approaching 3 years. We'll look into these services soon. The car's at a little over 73,390 miles now
The manual for 2007 may not have any scheduled services listed, since they are all programmed into the Maintenance Minder system .
Honda usually has two schedules, Normal and Severe, and I would verture to state that there are probably 5 people in the whole US of A who fall under the Normal schedule. Everyone else is under Severe schedule.
I would go by the codes given by the Mainternance Minder system on the CR-V. However, premature oil changes and subsequent resetting of the maintenance minder system may reset to Transmission and Differential fluid reminders.
As I would alwsy say, Read The Fine Manual. Edmunds' guide is not factory manual.
Yes, the bulbs in the gear selector indicator can burn out. It is also the Check Transmission Light. Refer to the Owner's Manual what the blinks mean.
However, a burnt out bulbs would preclude you from knowing if there is a problem with transmission, since you will not see it blinking.
You need to remove the gauge cluster to replace the bulb in the back of it. The bulbs itself is probably under $5 at the dealer's parts counter.
My gauge cluster does not have gear indicators, and the shifter is on the floor... oh and there are 3 pedals on the floor :P
Interestingly enough all the other lights on the dash come on when I turn on the car. So I think it might just be the bulb on the gear box. Its a relief to know its not some insane thing - I can handle a dead bulb. Especially since this has been the year of bulb replacement on my crv.
What I was trying to say is that you need to replace the bulb, since the "D" light is also the trouble indicator for the transmission. If the bulb is out, you will not not know if there is a minor problem with the transmission, until you are straded by the side of the road and need a $3000 transmission replacement.
Regarding shuddering and the sound when accelerating, I had a broken motor mount on the driver's side, a somewhat common thing on CRV's I learned here. It caused a similar sound. The mount is a big hunk of steel just behind the battery, you may be able to see a crack or some other sign of a break. I would hear a groaning sound when accelerating, dealer replaced for about $160. That may be something to look at.
Please post back on the vibration when resolved please, we are all guilty of posting our problems sometime but not the fix. Thanks
thanks
Since you have your owner's manual, it should tell you exactly at what periodic mileages fluids should be changed.
The check engine light does have to do with emissions, but oil changes have nothing to do with the light going on. You'll have to have the car scanned and trouble codes read, to know what's going on. It could be something quite simple. Often, Autozone will scan the car for free, for you. If you get a code #, come back and tell us what it is.
In the meantime, read over the service schedules for your car.
My owner's manual shows that the Auto transmission fluid should be changed twice as often as the rear diff after 60k miles
After checking absolutely every thing I could for wear, ie: CV joints, tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc, I was down to checking the runout on the new rotors. Of course, I don't have a dial indicator. I remembered that my Chevrolet manual says to seat new brake pads by successive hard braking maneuvers. It actually gave the speed to get up to and how many seconds to stop the vehicle. Well, I went out and really got my CR-V brake linings smoking. I let them cool and drove it again, problem solved!
The shuddering when starting off especially on a hill, I'm chalking up to normal operation...This is a quote from what I found on the Internet.. "Later Model CR-Vs equipped with automatic transmissions also have a lockup torque converter and Grade Logic program which aids the CR-V when climbing steep inclines by keeping the transmission in the lower gear." I think that it I was hearing was a combination of the Grade Logic program at work as well as the real wheels engaging due to the AWD system.
One of the cheapest parts I have ever bought - My accord has a similar button, but that has never broken and the car is much older - must be the weight of the door and the way the seatbelt retracks.
1) The traction control system activates the ABS, which causes some vibration when accelrating from a stop or up a hill. The yellow "trianlge" will appear o nteh dash when thsi si happening.
2) Frozen snow and slush can accumulate on the underside of the vehcile in some interesting places causing some realy, really disturbing and annoying noises as follows:
a) Slush can accumulate around the right rea engine mount causing engine vibration at low RPM's. This almost sounds like you have a bad exhaust leak.
b) Slush can build-up around the pilot shaft. This chuck of ice will break loose upon hitting a large bump, but is trapped above the pilot shaft. This material will make rattling sounds as different speeds. It sounds a little like a loose heat shield.
You cna jsut ignoire it as it shouldn't hurt anything, it get a long sice scraper and knock it loose. the ice around the pilot shaft might be hard to knock loose without driving up on ramps or crawling part way under the vechile.
The comical thing... If I had taken it to a dealer, the car might have sat in a warm service bay and the ice melted, or they would have knocked off the ice when they inpected it.
Has anyone had this? it has also occurred to me that perhaps it is suppose to make that sound under some condition
Mainternance required and Check Engine light are two different things.
This is my first post and I hope it is not a stupid one. I just bought a CR-V LX and there is a small LED light on radio for anti theft that keeps blinking. Is it supposed to blink like that all the time? I did not see anything about it in the owner's manual.
Car was hesitating when starting - made an appointment to get it looked at. Two days before appoint, car would not start. Towed to garage. He replaces starter then says there is a noise, thinks it could be flywheel. He asks if we heard noises - none that i can recall.
Any thoughts on this. Garage is reputable completely and they are looking as I write this.
I did not see much in the way of starter issues on the board. Is this unusual
I see what looks like a slot on the back of the clip (facing the window). It looks like the kind of slot that you stick a small screwdriver in and snap off and snap a new one on. Is that what it is or is there some screw within the slot I am not seeing.