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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • clemsonb85m89clemsonb85m89 Member Posts: 2
    I have Michelin HydroEdge. Love them, got them on 3 vehicles over the years. Travel for business about 35K miles a year and probably another 10K personal, many times in hard rain and snow, HydroEdge tires have performed very well for me.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Thanks for the info. Michelin makes great tires and yours are #3 on the Passenger All Season category on Tirerack.com.

    Regards,
    OW
  • dadschumdadschum Member Posts: 3
    I live in New England and am due to take my Honda in for service within the next week. The maintenance minder says it requires service level B1 at this time. The only service I have had done on this car so far has either been service levels A1 or B1, alternately. However, I did have new tires put on last November at about the 36,000 mile mark (Nokian tires) as the original tires and the ones Honda tried to sell me were crap. I also had rear brakes pads replaced and the rotors resurfaced last June.

    My question is, should anything else be done to the car now besides service level B1? Does it need anything else? And I don't want the Honda dealership, which is where I take it for service, trying to sell me anything I don't need. I want to go in there informed and confident in what I need at this time.

    Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for your help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Just do what the book tells you to do, and be sure to match the list in the book with what the dealer is trying to sell you. So if the dealer recommends such things as "fuel injector" cleaning, you know that's "padding" because it's not in the book. You need to go over this beforehand with the service writer so that they don't slip in any "extras" on you. Study your owner's manual before you go.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    Which Nokian model did you get?

    I put Nokian WRs on my '02 CR-V in early '06... Those last 27K miles I owned it were the best I had.. They transformed the ride and handling...

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  • dadschumdadschum Member Posts: 3
    they are Nokian WRG2's. I know nothing about tires except that I thought the Continentals that came with the car should not have all gone bad at the same time. Yes, all 4 of them needed to be replaced at 36K miles and a car just a bit over 3 years old. I was told the original tires were crap. So the tire place I deal with recommended the Nokian's especially the New England weather.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Go to Tirerack.com and learn.

    Regards,
    OW
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    I think the WRG2 is the updated version of the WR (latest and greatest)..

    What I like about them with the CR-V, is not only did I get wintertire-like snow traction, they were better handling dry-road tires than any of the crappy OEM tires that Honda uses.... In the size my CR-V used (205/70-15), they were H-Rated, vs the S-rated tires that came on it..

    It was a win-win... except for the price..... shewwww (still, worth it).

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  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    The 245/70 Kumho Road Ventures make the '08 handle like a Corvette. (The tire mechanic worried a little about the fit but no problem at all.)

    The steering is already phenomenal but I've got to thank Honda for the worst tires ever that made the transition to real rubber an epiphany of great chassis response!

    Regards,
    OW
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    How hard is it to replace a drive belt on an '02 CRV, 4WD? From what I've read it also involves removing a splash shield of some sort? Have 84K miles and think it's time. Plan to replace the tensioner pulley also since it is starting to wear groves in it. Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    I know it's long after the original post. I found the source of the noise while replacing the rear brakes. The backing plate has started to rust through and is rubbing on the discs when making sharp turns. I guess I'll wait until it becomes a problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm...can't you bend it out of the way a little bit?
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Good point. The issue arises because there is some sort of a raised ridge around the section where the parking brake assembly sits. Some sort of a way to seal it off? I tried to sand it a bit but am afraid to bend it for fear of it breaking off. That's where the rust holes are.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah I can't see it so I hesitate to advise you on a jury-rig here.
  • cannell3cannell3 Member Posts: 45
    My daughter's 2007 Cr-v has screeching door locks. When she starts off and the automatic door locks activate, there is a noticeable "screech". Is anyone out there familiar with this problem? Thank you. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited May 2011
    Didn't see any TSBs on this issue. You'll probably have to pop off the door panel or panels and see what is interfering in there--some metal to metal contact perhaps.
  • lou777lou777 Member Posts: 3
    I did this on my 99, or at least my mechanic did. You are going to replace the water pump too since the engine will be half torn down anyway. I paid less than anyone I could think of who is not a mechanic. My mechanic charges $30/hr@8=$240 and I got the parts with employee discount approx. $500

    LMK how you made out,
    Lou
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    04 with 120K. The last week or so I have been hearing a clicking of some sort in the front passenger side(wheel well area).

    Today the check engine light came on and the speedometer stopped working accurately. It still moves but is clearly not responding properly. The "D" light is NOT blinking

    Car is going to dealer for clicking sound on Tuesday anyway. Are these two things possibly related?
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    I've got an '11 CRV that's almost 7 months old and has around 3600 miles on it (about half local and half Interstate). The dash computer still shows 70% life. Around what mileage will the maintenance light come on for an oil change and does this thing come with synthetic oil? I don't want to go too long on the original factory oil. Thanks
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    edited June 2011
    Hi. I have a '08. :D

    The original oil is Honda certified so no worries. Just wait until the maintenance minder goes to 15% life... probably around 6 -7 K.

    No light will show but it will remind you each time you start the car by displaying 15% life.

    I went with M1 for every oil change (changed at the 15% mark each time and rotated the tires as well. OEM BS tires only lasted 23K). There is 48K on the odo so far and the engine is perfect.

    Regards,
    OW
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    It seems weird to go so long before changing the oil. Our Camry is 6 months or 5,000 miles. But the new ones I guess are 1 year or 10,000 miles. The Ody we traded in was every 3750 miles. This CRV is definitely built tighter than the Ody. That was a good van overall, but the assembly line quality was rather shoddy - lots of rattles and noises, but no mechanical problems. I've talked to others with the same complaint on Ody's. I don't know if that's a plant problem or a design issue, but even my BIL's Mopar van put it to shame on noise and rattles.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Toyota's gel. :P

    I think 10k oil changes have been common over the pond for over a decade or more.
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    Toyota's gel

    Yeah, I think they changed the time frame on the later models because they went to synthetic oil.

    I think 10k oil changes have been common over the pond for over a decade or more.

    But, do you really trust the Brit's for reliability - just kidding!
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    I ended up having the dealer replace the belt and idler pulley. Cost was around $250 with the parts. I guess it was a matter of pulling off a shield behind the wheel and releasing tension on the belt. Worth it for me to not have to guess if the belt lined up.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Does anyone else have issues with the Permatex Synthetic guide grease? I am finding that between brake jobs it tends to act as an adhesive and cause the calipers to stick on the brackets. Looking to try something different. :confuse:
  • roadresterroadrester Member Posts: 1
    I own a 98 CRV with 238k miles which has started making a noise sounding like ceramic plates tapping together. The noise comes from the rear passenger compartment just while driving and is intermittent. Not while going around a curve, nor while breaking or going over bumps . . . Any ideas?
  • jjoseph5jjoseph5 Member Posts: 2
    My 07 crv A/C just quit working and it is the most common problem
  • xcrunner446xcrunner446 Member Posts: 2
    Today I noticed a tube under my car was rapidly leaking what seemed to be water... After doing some research, it seemed that the evaporator is what is causing the leak.

    But I don't know what to do to fix it. Would somebody please give me detailed directions on how to fix the leak. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nothing to fix! :) Your evaporator has a drain tube that drips the water to the ground. Your AC system naturally extracts moisture from the inside cabin air and that has to go somewhere.

    If you noticed the water INSIDE the car, then you'd have a problem (a clogged drain).
  • xcrunner446xcrunner446 Member Posts: 2
    O good, thank you! I was worried because of how much water was being displaced...
  • 2008crvexl2008crvexl Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2008 CRV-EX L with about 21,000 on it and it always got great gas mileage from 31 Highway to about 24 in the City. recently my city MPG's were hitting 15 to 16 City and 24 to 26 highway . I did forget that a few months back I did disconnect the battery for some reason and thats probably when my MPG's went down. So I found several posts about the idle relearn procedure and tryed it and so far after a preliminary test drive my MPGs went back to thier 24 City . I will try a trip down the Highway and report back the results. Its a simple proocedure to do . Just disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect . Turn off all power accesories and put the parking brake on then start the engine and idle it at 3000RPMS untile the engine fan comes on then idle it at normal RPMs for 5 minutes add the time the engine fan comes on. I idled it about 8 minutes total, then shut the engin off and restart and your MPGs should go back to thier normal levels . Also remember to rest the radio security code which came with your vehicle and reset the clock. Im getting my great MPG's again and I am now in love with the CRV again !
  • kenneth813kenneth813 Member Posts: 38
    My 08CRV has the same problem, but it only happen in winter, when I stop the car and use the central lock to unlock the door, I got the same noise.
  • covertskycovertsky Member Posts: 2
    My 08 CRV has had a burning rubber smell from day one. When I open the rear passenger door is where is smell it. I have put new tires, rotated them, balance them and I still get that smell. I took it to a local dealer and they told me that is common in CRV's do to the muffler. Burning rubber smells should not be a common smell!
  • covertskycovertsky Member Posts: 2
    I read on msn.com today that ther is a recall on 2.5 millions hondas, from CRV, Accord, Civics and Elements. Having to do with software updates that can cause your vehicle to stall and will be difficult to put the car in park.
  • smaxxsmaxx Member Posts: 10
    I have an '09 CR-V and I notice it too when I get my son out of his car seat on the passenger side. I too have had new tires installed and still smell it. I did not take it to a dealer though.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Yes, Honda is getting GM disease.

    The Japanese automaker told the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration it has been investigating the issue for several years. In September 2008, it received three claims of bearing breakage in the United States and began investigating. It received other complaints worldwide and changed its bearing supplier in late 2009.

    Honda will begin to notify owners on Aug. 31

    5M-vehicles-worldwide-for-stalls--shifting-problems#ixzz1UBP4BkU8
  • haliptonhalipton Member Posts: 1
    If I get an oil change early, and the mechanic resets the maintenance minder wrench, will the wrench light still remind me when to do the other maintenance items that may not be due for 3,000-4,000 miles? Or will the built-in system think I did everything that the next wrench would have told me to do?
    Thanks
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    With my 04 getting near 130K there seems to be always some noise. This time it is an intermittent very low squeeking that appears to be coming from the rear brake, almost like the sound the brake makes when it is low. However, the noise occurs when the brake is not applied and usually for the first mile or so, then it goes away. It changes tone when the wheels turn so it must be related to the wheel, but the brakes are fine.

    Any thoughts - I have tried running next to the car while my wife is driving, etc. Just can;t pinpoint it.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I just returned from the repair shop on another issue. The check engine light read for an o2 sensor, no problem. But he said it also read for a "voltage drop" which he said would need more diagnostics. I trust the shop

    Any experience with something like this. I did notice one of my electric locks did not work but never noticed anything else. ANyone have any idea what this is or if it is worth worrying about
  • ebd2011ebd2011 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 07 CR-V EX-L w/Navigation. Last Thursday I was driving home from school and my car started doing the strangest thing. If I push down on the brake peddle, my left blinker dash light goes on (steady, not blinking) and the navigation screen changes from day to night mode. The same thing happens when I'm stopped and have my foot on the brake. Also, if I'm using either turn signal, there's no blinker sound and the navigation screen flashes at the same tempo as the blinker until I take my foot off the brake. I tried disconnecting the battery but that didn't fix the issue. Has anyone else ever experienced anything like this? I called the dealer and they said that they had never heard of that happening. They said I should bring it in, but it would cost $98 just to look at it. Since I'm a college student and am pretty much broke, I thought I would start here. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • niteflite888niteflite888 Member Posts: 30
    Hi, all. Went in for an oil change to a non-dealer yesterday and got recommended a # of things. But here is what I have questions on for my CR-V with 32k miles:

    1. How much brake fluid do I need for a full brake fluid flush? I have another independent mechanic I go to and I doubt he carries Honda OEM. I plan on picking some up at the dealer's parts department.

    2. Is a purolator brand cabin air filter good enough? Or should i spend more for Honda OEM?

    3. Finally, they also recommended a BG fuel induction service at $150. What is the best way to handle this? I have noticed a rough idle when the car is stopped in Drive and some lower MPG. I am willing to spend some money, not an excessive amount, though, to get these issues addressed.

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    There are different quality levels of cabin air filter so the best I can tell you is to compare what types they are. Filters with CARBON in them cost more.

    You don't need the other stuff at 32K. If you want to treat the car to fuel injector cleaner go to NAPA auto parts and ask for some BGK-44 or order some online. It'll be about $130 cheaper !!

    You don't need a brake fluid flush unless you can see that the fluid is no longer honey-colored, but rather brown and gooey (I rather doubt it but go look).
  • niteflite888niteflite888 Member Posts: 30
    What is the best way to check the color of the fluid? I don't need to bleed the brakes myself, do i? can i just open the hood and look at the brake fluid container?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep. Just peer into the reservoir. I mean this is a rough check but generally a good rule of thumb. If you were racing the car, I wouldn't suggest this as definitive.
  • smaxxsmaxx Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2009 CR-V with 39,000 miles. I have recently noticed that it is sometimes more difficult to shift from P to D or R to D. The gear shifter seems to stick and I have to give it a little extra pressure to put it in gear. It does not happen all the time, but happens frequently. The car otherwise runs fine and I have done all the scheduled maintenance at my Honda dealer. Has anyone else experienced this? (Please do not tell me to fully depress the brake before I shift, b/c I already know that). Thanks.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Mr. Shiftright, Are you sure it's just as simple as peering at the Brake Fluid Reservoir and checking out the filter? I heard that you should change the brake fluid every 3 years regardless of mileage because it picks up moisture etc. I read this in my old (now my family's) '04 Accord manual. On forums for my '08 IS 350 I believe I've read 2 year interval for the brake fluid change. I was assuming the same for my dad's '07 CR-V (and my wife's '07 Accord EX i4 which I also maintain).

    But I did want to follow up on the OPs question - how much brake fluid should you flush through? 1 bottle, 2 bottles? You're supposed to visually see when the color changes but I remember when I changed my IS 350's brake fluid, I couldn't tell. So I just went through I think like 4 bottles, spending about a bottle for each of the axles.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    I don't think I've ever done the fuel injector service. That's not in the manual right? The dealer's always recommended it but I never really thought anything of it.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    My dad sent me a message a few days ago about his A/C no longer working in his '07 CR-V AWD (currently at almost 117k miles). I'm wondering if perhaps the cabin air filter needs to be changed or something's blocking it? I remember in my '08 IS 350, I had a similar issue and when I went to change the cabin air filter on the car, I pulled out some papers that were blocking it.

    If not, what was your experience with getting it fixed? From where did you get it fixed and how much was it?
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    edited September 2011
    My '08 IS 350 still says get the oil change every 5k. However, a lot of people in forums for my car have done an UOA (used oil analysis) and the oil seems to be good even at 10k miles. I'm using Mobil 1 which I think can go up to 12k miles but I have to change the filter along the way.

    Look into a UOA in the near future to make sure you're not throwing away oil when it's still good.
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    Mr. Shiftright: The owner's manual for my 2005 CRV states the brake fluid should be REPLACED every three years without regard to mileage. Regarding FLUSHING, the "Honda Service News" of February 2006 clearly states: "Honda maintenance schedule neither requires nor approves of aftermarket flushing of systems." Your local Dealer/Stealer will always recommend flushing various systems, because that is how they earn a living. I would simply drain and replace the brake fluid every three years, like Honda recommends, and refuse any unnecessary Dealer-recommended add-on services, which may in fact be harmful to your vehicle. I will email you the cited "Honda Service News" if you wish, and provide me an email address. My personal email is N4YIC@arrl.net
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