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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,425
    Every 3 years sounds like a good plan to me. I was responding to the question of (paraphrase) 'how do i know IF it needs changing right away", and in the worst case scenario, certainly dirty brown brake fluid would be an indicator.

    I flush coolant every two years and brake fluid at around 30,000. I do this because I drive hard and fast and am often in the boonies, so I need for my car to be dead-on reliable. Driving a MINI, this isn't easy to accomplish :P

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  • I don't think it's in the manual. however, i have noticed lower mpg. and rough shaky idle. and taking longer when cranking up/starting the engine.

    unfortunately i just had the oil change and since we can go for like a year before the next oil change i guess i guess i'll have to wait before i put in the bottle of bg44k since most people are saying it should be done before the oil is changed.
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    Try a bottle of Seafoam or Chevron Techron - both available at Walmart or Advance Auto for about $9. You add it to the gas once or twice a year. This is not that cheap STP injection cleaner. I would never pay for the fuel injector cleaning from the dealer.
  • ok. would like to try that but is that on an empty tank of gas any time or right before an oil change only?
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    Nothing to do with and oil change. Add the Seafoam or Techron to the GAS tank and then, fill her up. Run the gas tank to as reasonably close to empty before you fill up again.

    On another note, you can add a little Seafoam to the oil as well to free up sticky valves or clean out the engin a little. That I would do maybe 2-3 weeks before an oil change. Not saying this will cure your hesitation as that is more likely fuel system related. Your CRV is still pretty new but I've added a little Seafoam to the crank case of my 04 with 150K miles, doesn't hurt.
  • ebes322ebes322 Posts: 3
    edited September 2011
    My 2006 Honda CRV, which has 53,000 miles, has been on the road for 5 years and 2 months. Several weeks ago I noticed my car had a little bit of a vibration upon acceleration, therefore, I asked my mechanic to check it out when I took it in for it's most recent service visit. My mechanic informed me that the 2 front axles were going bad and that they would eventually need to be replaced. I gave the mechanic the go-ahead and he replaced them with non-Honda parts. After the replacement, my mechanic told me he wasn't happy with the results and thought the new axles were defective. Several days later the newest set of replacement axles were installed and the problem continued or was worse. Fortunately my mechanic held onto the original axles until he knew my car was up and running properly, so they wound up being reinstalled on my car. After my mechanic did some research, he discovered that the only way to fix the problem is by installing genuine Honda axles (which is a cost of $1,700). When speaking with Honda regarding the axles, my mechanic discovered that Honda is finding more and more of these front axle problems. Unfortunately my car is 2 months out of warranty, so in order to have the problem fixed, I'll need to pay $1,700 for this repair.

    Has anyone else had these front axle problems? I'm hoping that if there are enough people with this problem, there may be a way to present it to Honda to get some kind of recall for this part.

    Additionally, does anyone know how to file complaints with Honda so they can start looking into the problem. Thanks!
  • idic5idic5 Posts: 18
    edited September 2011
    By break and I mean have more mechanical issues over time. I am considering a 2011 crv and I was wondering if AWD is worth it or is it something else to go wrong as my friend says? We live in snowy chicago and go up to wisconsin alot.
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    Sure, AWD, as with anything else, is something more to go wrong, but Honda's system is reliable. It requires a little extra maintenance, fluid changes occasionally . And it dings you about 1 mpg. But that seems to me like a small price for the added safety it provides on snowy roads.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,425
    If you are only a few months/miles out of warranty I would suggest contacting the Honda Zone Office and asking for assistance.

    The quote you got seems high. Complete axle assemblies should list at the dealer for around $600 each and labor for both sides should be 1.6 hours.

    It's true that there are a lot of substandard rebuilt axles being made out there. I didn't see any TSBs or other notices about CRV axles.

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  • idic5idic5 Posts: 18
    " It requires a little extra maintenance, fluid changes occasionally "

    Does anyone know whether the 2011 crv maintenance feedback system also will tell you when it thinks you need to change transmission fluid and any other fluids associated w/ the drivetrain?
  • idic5idic5 Posts: 18
    I just test drove a cr-v 2011 and found out the maintenance minder that honda built into this car . the sales guy says it will tell you when to change the oil based on your driving of the vehicle. IS oil change the only thing it will tell you ? if not , what other maintenance items will it mind for you?

    How well does this work? is this trustworthy? how long has this been in place for the cr-v?
  • idic5idic5 Posts: 18
    I was also looking for actual cr-v users' experiences with awd. I know the adage, 'anything mechanical can breakdown.'
  • This is a good question. My V was due for maintenance and I was scrambling to look for the code meanings. After going through the owner's manual, I found this in page 347.

    Code A:
    Replace engine oil

    Code B:
    Replace engine oil and oil filter
    Inspect front and rear brakes
    Check parking brake adjustment
    Inspect these items:
    Tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
    Suspension components
    Driveshaft boots
    Brake hoses and lines (including ABS/VSA)
    All fluid levels and condition of fluids
    Exhaust system
    Fuel lines and connections

    Code 1:
    Rotate tires

    Code 2:
    Replace air cleaner element
    If you drive in dusty conditions, replace every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
    Replace dust and pollen filter
    If you drive primarily in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the air from industry and from diesel-powered vehicles, replace every 15,000
    miles (24,000 km).
    Inspect drive belt

    Code 3:
    Replace transmission fluid
    If you tow a CR-V behind a motor-home, the transmission fluid must be changed every 2 years or 30,000 miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first.

    Code 4:
    Replace spark plugs
    Inspect valve clearance

    Code 5:
    Replace engine coolant

    Code 6:
    Replace rear differential fluid (4WD only)
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 91,839
    One thing to remember... it's all based on usage... The system doesn't monitor each item to see if it really needs maintenance..


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  • idic5idic5 Posts: 18
    thanks for that page out of the V maint manual. It looks like the only item (predictable maintenance) that is 4wd specific is

    Replace rear differential fluid (4WD only)

    IS this an accurate ?

    "My V was due for maintenance and I was scrambling to look for the code meanings"

    Another question on the maintenance minder (my words; I dont know what honda calls this little system) ; does it issue the codes noted in the maint. manual?
  • Yes, i think it predicts the service your car needs based on the mileage.
    It doesn't mean you can go off road and do donuts daily and it still ask you to do tire rotation and alignment yearly. That's the recommended service. Your dealer will tell you what else is needed based on the 'health check'.
    I went to get the VTC recall and A16 done and it costed me $160 w/ tax.

    They have a 'health report' printed when I checked out and it has the brake and tire wear figures on it. Pretty cool stuff. :)
  • idic5idic5 Posts: 18
    "I went to get the VTC recall and A16 done and it costed me $160 w/ tax."

    what is VTC recall and A16?
  • I drive an'04 crv manual with 46,000 mi. , there is a rubbing noise on turning which stops when the wheels are straight. Goes away after a mile or two. Worse in cold weather. Does not seem to effect function. Had differential fluid changed but no difference. Any ideas?
    Possibly wheel bearing?
  • I'm having the same issue on my '02 after 75K miles. Another noise I hear is a high pitched whirring when driving above 40MPH with the windows open. When I took to the dealer they advised that the dust shields behind the brakes are rusting and starting to rub against the rotors. They said that it shouldn't be a safety issue. I did my own inspection and found that to be the case. My concern is why the rotors shift side to side and allow rubbing against the shields. Could there be some play in the wheel bearings that doesn't show up when pulling on the wheels?
  • I just bought a new AWD CR-V EX. When the vehicle was delivered I noticed that the rear brake rotors were very rusty. One was worse than the other and appeared to be gouged. The other was better but the rotor was not clean over the full surface of the brake pad. Part was not touching. The fronts were clean, as expected. I'm aware that it is normal that the rotors would be rusty when the vehicle sits around for a while especially in moist conditions. However I expected that the 40 mile drive home would have cleaned up the rear brakes. I drove an additional 60 miles while consciously applying the brakes more than I normally do. This did not help.
    I brought it back to the dealer and they put on new rotors which seem to be working as expected.
    I checking to see if others have run into this issue or whether mine was an isolated "Monday morning" brake assembly issue.
    I am especially concerned because I have just retired and the CR-V will be sitting for several months in the garage while I'm in Florida and wonder whether this will occur again.
  • We own a 2003 Honda CRV AWD with 104,000 miles, the only extra maintenance is replacing the rear differential fluid at 30,000 miles, if you don't, you'll get a growling noise(I know this by experience). Other than that it performed flawlessly.
  • grampy1grampy1 Posts: 140
    I went to replace the spark plugs in the car,and in removing the boots i found the spark plug
    wells filled with oil.

    The original problem was that the 'check engine light" was on,which prompted me to change the plugs. 137k on engine :confuse:
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    I've seen this on 2 other cars. A Plymouth Breeze and a Mazda 3. You need to replace the valve cover gasket. There are what they call "spark plug tube seals" in the gasket package or at least get one that has them. Not sure if you are a do-it-yourself kind of person but it's pretty easy.

    There is a the main valve cover gasket in a kit and 4 plug tube seals. Sometimes there are 2 tube seal gaskets ie; 1 gasket encompasses 2 spark plugs. They are just rubber gaskets the prevent the oil from getting into the tubes. If you opt not to do it yourself, just tell the mechanic (any independent mechanic can do this - no need to go to the dealer) the plugs tube seals are leaking.
  • grampy1grampy1 Posts: 140
    Thanks again to everyone for answering my question.
    I'm off to my trusted mechanic
  • vikki1vikki1 Posts: 2
    Don't know if this relates... but I just recently had to replace my brake pads and rotors.. there was a very loud grounding noise. VERY LOUD! Before that noise there was a "whistling noise".. They said I ws a light braker.. and wore the pads out. 16,000 miles. I have been driving 40 years and never "wore out brakes" before. My rotors were rusty, too.. I thought maybe that was from the wintery roads I drive on.
  • Went to my dealer for an A12 maintence minder. He recommended 2 additional items 1) Change the differential fluid. Claims irrespective of the maintence minder it should be changed every 15k. I almost went for it until i remember at the last service about 18K the differential fluid was changed. My understanding was that the only maintence needed was what the maintence minder says, do other folks have that type of experience? In addition they tried to sell me new tires (at $769 installed!) although the tires don't look bad he told me the new car tires only last about 25k and only have a couple of months left. Any comments? How long have tires lasted for other folks.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    You know that most service writers work on commission, right? :-)

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  • I would ask the dealer about a service bulletin addressing corrosion on the brake calipers. I had the same issue and found the caplpers seizing on the guide pins, causing the brakes to wear prematurely. The whilsling noise was probably the wear sensor advising the pads were getting close to their limit. Known issue on the CRv's. Trouble being that at 16K miles you are just out of the 12K mile honeymoon period. Maybe Honda Corporate can assist?
  • Sometimes when I turn the key to start the engine nothing happens except for a kind of a sizzling/hissing sound that seems to come from the ignition switch. Then when I try again the engine starts. Since it only happens occasionally I can't show it to the mechanic. I'm afraid of getting stranded somewhere one day. Does anyone know what this could be?
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    edited November 2011
    sounds like a faulty ignition switch. A qualified technician who understands electrical wiring would be able to diagnose this.

    The reason it sometimes starts and sometimes doesnt is because of an intermittent connection also known as a "short" in the switch itself. That connection is making a sizzling noise because it's not making good connection inside the switch. And without a good connection it won't allow you to start the car. Other times it works because the connection is made, car starts. I would imagine that the accessory position is also intermittent as well. I've seen this happen on civics before.

    But try to get it checked out soon before it shorts out and starts a fire. I'm not trying to scare you but you're dealing with a live 12v line to the battery and if it shorts out, sparks, it could start a fire. Don't want you to get hurt.
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