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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The CR-V is indeed on the list (comparing one year old cars to new ones, but still).

    Some New Cars Now Cheaper Than Used Cars
  • waynewalwaynewal Member Posts: 6
    edited May 2013
    I think there are complaints on the newest CRV and a recall. I really don't have the ability - now retired - to spring for that high a car payment. Still looking used. BUT lots of miles on those used babies!!!
    On top of that looking to get one made in Japan - versus mexcio or the U.S. Am reading a lot on line about problems with the latter 2...
    UK definitely NOT
  • charles_guycharles_guy Member Posts: 55
    edited May 2013
    payed to much

    see my post at http://www.edmunds.com/honda/cr-v/2012/long-term-road-test/2012-honda-cr-v-20000- - -mile-b1-service-complete.html

    coupons from honda of santa monica are friends
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Don't forget the tire rotation.

    I got new tires put on my minivan today and the shop checked my brakes, coolant, battery and topped off my windshield washer fluid. That was a nice freebie (although I paid, lol).
  • charles_guycharles_guy Member Posts: 55
    hey steve_ host and nice to have quick reply from a edmunds host,

    not sure what you rubbere'd on your van since snow is not much problem in ne for us

    i go for hydroplaning and really like some of the yokos or generals

    my comment about that crv service in the comment here http://www.edmunds.com/honda/cr-v/2012/long-term-road-test/2012-honda-cr-v-20000- -mile-b1-service-complete-commentspage.html#comments i just want to say check dealer sites n coupons.

    quote: (1) [i]I know that 0W20 synthetic is required for the CR-V[/i] and (2) [i]I picked up the CR-V about an hour later and was pleased to find the total bill did indeed reflect a discount: It was $139.07 with tax. That's right in line with the Edmunds.com Maintenance Calculator's suggestion that you should pay $145 for a 20,000-mile service on a 2012 Honda CR-V if you live in the 90404 zip code.[/i] (1) full syn is wrong as crv is listed per manual @ 0w-20 which can be a blend or full syn (2) i always check dealer sites for coupons so next time check dealer site for coupons "Includes: Change oil up to 5 qts.- Install Honda genuine oil filter - Multi-point inspection - Vehicles with 0/20 grade are $59.95" http://www.hondaofsantamonica.com/specials/service.htm (Multi-point inspection includes all that hose n brake checking stuff) 59.95+tax (59.95+(59.95x.095))=65.65 crv in the air doing oil so rotating tires=? edmunds payed 139.07 ipad & service advisor=fancy and less money in your pocket

    sou cal i think edmunds after $60 santa monica honda coupon for oil change n car check maybe $20-40 for rotation so maybe $100 in so cal.

    just leased LX and with 16's pumped the contys to 37 and now good steering

    nice ride and hope you enjoy yours steve_ host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited May 2013
    Yeah, your coupon doesn't cover rotations was my point. That's part of the 20k service, so you'll have to add that in.

    I'm riding on Nokian WRG2s lately (and yeah, I'm in the UP of Michigan, and we get a bit of snow).
  • charles_guycharles_guy Member Posts: 55
    former 2wd/fwd indiana h pilot gal with geolandars and then grabbers in some big snow

    sorry your right on the rotation thing and jus wanted to point out the coupon from santa monica

    thanks for the fast reply

    safe driving
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    I'm down here in Florida. I spent all May researching CR-V market here (all car websites, dealer websites, AAA), to get one for my daughter (senior year in college). I found that Honda dealers will rather send used CR-V's back to auction than sell them for a price below market (but still in the black for a profit). This skews the NADA and KBB values, because those sales to auctions are not recorded. Also, they use the higher used prices to sell new ones instead. I've seen used 11 EX selling at more than a new LX at same dealer. I Since it has the newer design, I really wanted a 2007+, but the price spread from 2006 to 2007 is steep. We ended up getting a 2009 LX with 126k miles for 10K, after it sat on their lot for 2 months with price dropping 2K over the final 2 weeks.

    I got all the service work details from the dealer, including that it had valves adjusted and a new valve cover put in around 110k miles. Is there anything I need to be on the lookout for over the next two months before she takes it to college in August? I also noticed a driveshaft seal getting worked on. Is that normal?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited June 2013
    Sending salable cars back to auction rather than cleaning them up for the used car lot makes no sense does it? Must be a tax dodge. :shades:

    Not sure, but I've read stories over the years that Edmunds gets auction numbers to plug into the TMV formula, but I'm not privy to that stuff so can't really say.

    If you didn't get a pre-purchase inspection done on the '09, I'd do one now at an independent mechanic. That may find any time-bombs that the dealer glossed over and maybe give you ammo to get the dealer to fix it. More likely the mechanic will recommend when any fluid changes or brake jobs or other general maintenance should be done.

    Other owners will be better sources about known problems or the seals; all I can think of from surfing the boards is that CR-Vs have a reputation for failing AC compressors.

    Congrats on the new ride - you're a good dad. :)
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    We just bought a 2009 CR-V. It's got 126k miles on it, but overall seems quite solid. The problem: the driver's door lock switch will not unlock the door locks. It can lock the doors, but it fails to do anything when moved in the unlock direction. We did not notice it because the driver's lock unlocked automatically when the car was shut off. I found the switch part online, and have changed these out in other cars I've owned by popping out the switch panel. But I cannot figure out (and have searched the internet far and wide) whether the switch panel can be removed from the armrest on its own (it is deeply set into the armrest) or if I have to remove the entire door panel. Any 2007-2011 owners/mechanics out there? Thanks!
  • baldy95307baldy95307 Member Posts: 9
    I know that there have been previous posts recommending that we follow the on-board oil reminder (xx% oil life remaining) on late model CRVs. But my 2012 was bringing up the 0% figure after less than 4000 miles which seemed a bit premature to me. Now admittedly all of these approximate 4000 miles were stop-and-go city driving so I accepted those figures at face value.
    .
    I just had the chance to complete a 6,200 mile all high-speed highway trip. Starting with a new oil change, the oil life remaining figure just clicked over to 50%, which translates to about 12,000 miles of consistent high-speed driving. Even that figure seems a bit excessive for me. I was expecting no more than 10,000 at best.
    .
    We know that some values in the engine computer system need a little tweaking (i. e. the alternator charging rate aka dead battery syndrome) so I'm thinking maybe this oil life figure might need a little tweaking of its own. Your comments are welcome.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    The passenger side mirror (just the glass) broke and fell off. The rubber part is still there. I ordered a part through Honda, thinking it was just the glass, but I think it includes the rubber piece (haven't gotten it yet). Anyway, it looks like you just pry the rubber piece off and it comes out with clips, then just push the new one back. Is that all there is.

    I wanted just the glass, and if it just the glass no problem, but I would have had to order on-line and I like that mirror- Honda can get the part in one day.

    Any experience - 04 CRV
  • almattialmatti Member Posts: 164
    Going to buy our leased vehicle : 2010 CRV-EXL with 25k on it. Dealer is offering extended bumper to bumper warranty to 100k or 5 years for about $1575. Should I do this? Is it worth it?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Miles-wise it would be a better deal than time-wise. Plus the 5 years probably starts when the vehicle was first registered so really it is only an extra 2 years? Plus you already have the 5 years powertrain only. Also check what the deductible is per occurrence if you use the wty.

    If the A/C gave trouble you might wish you had the wty...not sure if the newer CRVs have had their A/C woes fixed or not. I think I have recently read about a 2010 failing early.
  • californiagalcaliforniagal Member Posts: 10
    That sounds too much. I paid $600 for a 7 year 70,000m warranty but I never had to use it because the Hondas are well made. You can haggle with the dealer for a lower price, as I did, and get it for less.
  • blackfrancis75blackfrancis75 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I've got the manual for my Honda CRV 2006, and located two screws under the Audio unit (under the center vents and Hazard Light Switch). After removing these two screws, the manual says to gently pull out the bottom of the center panel (release clips) to create a gap.
    My problem is, pulling on the bottom of this panel doesn't release it or create a gap. I started by pulling gently and worked my way up to grabbing and pulling with two hands, but it still won't release. Any advice on how to proceed?
  • guest2011guest2011 Member Posts: 30
    edited September 2013
    I noticed streaks on the inside the windshield before i bought the car. Thought they got rid of everything at the prep wash. A few days later these streaks showed up again. Driving against the sunlight is like looking at streaking haze. I can tell they are permanent because i can feel them running my finger across. Auto glass cleaner and isopropyl alcohol can't remove the streaks. If the dealer doesn't get rid of them i'm returning this plasticky POS. Built in Ohio. Transmission Japan, 15%. I no longer expect quality in japanese brands built in the states and mexico.
  • markk7markk7 Member Posts: 2
    I just took my 2013 CRV in for a B12 service at around 53k. I do a lot of highway driving and brakes tend to last a long time, last time the brakes were checked the dealer told me I had about 80% left and guessed I would get close to 100k on them.

    This time I has told the rear brake (one side) was gone metal on metal. When they took it apart they found that the caliper was ok but the bracket that holds the pads had gotten so rusty that it no longer went back (before they took it apart they mentioned it could be the guide pins or the caliper, perhaps the guide pins are the same as a bracket). I saw someone commented that there may be a service bulletin for this issue? I sensed from the dealer that this problem is not unusual-(. Have other people had this issue is it common in Honda's, I've never even heard of this problem until yesterday-(

    This is the first Honda i have owned it is a little disappointing to have a problem like this at just over 50k.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Does your car have more plastic in it now than when you first purchased it?

    Seems to me, you have to own a bit more content of your decision to purchase it.

    As for the faulty windshield, yes that sucks because it obviously went unnoticed during pick up of the new car. In an effort to be somewhat amicable with your dealer (if they are decent basically in other regards during your purchase) then I would have THEM, not a jobber, order a brand new HONDA windshield (NOT an aftermkt one, cuz there are good ones and poor ones out there...they think we are stupid..some are softer than others and some are thinner that others, adding interior noise levels) and have the Honda dealer do the re and re.

    It sucks to have to deal with this but hey...this scenario is so much better than having a new car and a month later finding out they have to tear the engine or transmission apart..THAT is my worst nightmare when buying a new vehicle. Being 'the one' who gets one 'of those'..
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Rear brakes on CRVs are not one of Honda's strong suits. Brakes in general in the past almost decade are not a strong point with Honda for some reason.

    I have had to replace rear brakes, rotors and pads twice now in only 55000 miles. Obviously a poor design issue. Usually the front go long before the rear since they do a lot greater braking force than rears.
  • eenglish99eenglish99 Member Posts: 28
    I have a 2011 AWD CRV about 2 years old but with only about 15,000 miles on it. Before buying I had heard of problems with previous years with the wrong rear end fluid and was concerned but thought this was limited to 2007 and earlier. I tried to buy a 2WD model because of my concern and because I spend the winter in Florida and don't need AWD but being from the Northeast I could only get an AWD in my desired model and color. Just recently I started hearing "rachetty sounding" creaking taking tight turns which seems to be only rights but could be both as I always turn right initially. This seems to be only for a few turns when the car is cold and then goes away.
    Is this still a problem with newer CRVs and is it not a problem with the wrong fluid but fluid wearing out prematurely? I get no message from the "life" indicator to change it.
    Does getting this sound indicate that there was damage?
    Does it need to be "burnished"?
    I checked the service manual and it appears that there are NO recommended service intervals for ANYTHING and just relying on the "minder". There is just a check box for 'replace rear differential fluid' (if applicable).
    Not very happy with a new vehicle.
  • eenglish99eenglish99 Member Posts: 28
    I have a 2011 AWD CRV with 15,000 miles. We started to spend 3 months in Florida for the winter and I left my CRV in the garage. My daughter has a Honda Fit that is crappy in the snow so she borrowed my CRV for storms. Being aware of rotor rust I asked her to be sure that when she returned it that the roads were dry to make sure the rotors would also be. I'm not sure how good she was with this but got a message from here that in the Spring the car was "making noises". I brought it to the dealer who told me that all the rotors were badly rusted and it cost me $450 to get them shaved. We also left a 2005 Nissan Altima in the garage which had no difficulty with the brakes.
    The dealer said to have the car driven weekly to avoid this problem.
    Has anyone else had a problem like this?
    If I just leave the car in the garage should the rotors be OK if I make sure they are dry before storage? (I drove around for a while with light pressure on the brakes on a dry day to be sure).
    If my daughter uses it for storms should we be OK if she actually does what I asked and make sure the rotors are dry when going back into the unheated garage?
    If we just leave it in the garage for 3 months any experience as to how often, if ever, the car should be driven on a dry day to keep the brakes clean?
    I don't want to spend $450 a year and make my rotors too thin.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited September 2013
    That happens to my old Subaru, but I get the rust over the summer months when it mostly sits.

    My mechanic just told me to drive it a bit more often.

    I'd think that simply using the brakes would dry the discs enough.

    Try the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion too.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited September 2013
    While this is just a guess concerning your 2011, my 2005 had this very same symptom. The noise was accompanied with a binding when turning. I had just bought the car used off lease..and I mean JUST bought it. For some reason never noticed on test drive but did take it to a steep gravel hill to test that the rear axle was kicking in on aggressive take off. Well FF to later that day at home and I feel and hear this binding :( So I'm pretty sure that my hill test caused the rear axle pump to engage and the mechanism was reluctant to release. Fortunately the cure was simply changing the rear dif oil with a litre of new stuff. Who wudda thunk? to this day I am amazed that the oil change solved to ailment. I do it every 12000 miles now cuz is so cheap to do. Technically though, shouldn't 'have' to until Honda says, which is what? Every 35k or something?

    I have your brake issue too for the same reason, not driving enough. And once your 2011 gets a couple more years on it, be prepared for sticking pads and calipers. Hondas are notorious for that. One of their other weak areas. Being in FL you probably won't have as much an issue tho come to think of it..
  • eenglish99eenglish99 Member Posts: 28
    The CRV will never be in Florida so I am at the mercy of the Northeast elements with snow and salt (if my daughter drives it). We have another car in Florida, an 11 year old Highlander which has been pretty good except I had rear end problems so I wanted a 2WD CRV but needed to get an AWD because they don't ship many 2WD's to the Northeast.
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    eenglish99: This is an old and ongoing difficulty with CRVs. My 2005 CRV Owners Manual said to replace the Rear Differential fluid at 90,000 miles. Alas, the fluid broke down at 17,000 miles. I had the fluid replaced (DRAIN & FILL ONLY - NO FLUSHING) at 17,000 miles, again at 50,000 miles and 100,000 miles. I've experienced no additional problems thus far, and plan to replace the fluid at 150,000 miles unless the "groaning and grinding" sounds reappear sooner. Honda released Honda Service Bulletin 07-024, dated August 12, 2009 which explains this all-too-common problem and what your Honda Service Techs are supposed to do about it. If you Dealer/Stealer can't locate this 07-024, email me and I will send you a .pdf copy of it. My email is [email protected] - Good luck with it all. Regards, Jack
  • dandrwdandrw Member Posts: 10
    I've had a 1990 accord that went well over 120,000 miles before it needed a brake job and presently own a 2004 accord with 70,000+ miles and original brakes working fine. Invariably it's people who drive with a heavy foot, who hurry up to slow down whose brakes wear out prematurely. Of course, they deny they drive that way but needing to replace your brakes after only a few years tells a different story.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You can find that TSB at BBBind.com for free (you do have to register). This link may even work (pdf file).
  • richbf2richbf2 Member Posts: 73
    Hello all! I have a question. Is it ok for me switch oil from 5w-30 to 5w-20 in the winter? It is thinner and lighter oil and easy to start in cold temp. Just my thought. Please let me know your inputs. Thanks
  • guest2011guest2011 Member Posts: 30
    I didn't know windshields can be different. I'm replacing it through dealer so assume its the original Honda glass. Dealer doesn't have own glass department. Local glass specialists work with dealers. I can't tell if its a 3rd party inferior quality or original and if i ask i know service dept won't tell me the truth. Dealers always lie. My original glass has a bar code in lower left corner. That's all i can see. There's no extended warranty on after-install defects in case something fails after 3yrs/36,000mi due to installation.

    My car has more scratches in plastic now then when i first bought it. Seems like air is too abrasive for this type of plastic. My E had much better quality scratch resistant interior and exterior plastic.
  • snukesnuke Member Posts: 81
    edited October 2013
    I definitely agree with you regarding the quality of the interior and exterior plastic of the CR-V. I have the 2012 CR-V. I have previously owned 1988 and 2000 Accords and the quality of the interior and exterior of both vehicles seem to have been better than my current CR-V. To hopefully help prolong the finish of my CR-V, I am waxing and applying protectant to the interior every 3 months which is something I should not have to do. But, I don't want to take any chances because I try to keep my vehicles for a minimum of 10-years and I like keeping the appearance looking like new.

    To clean my windshield and windows, I purchased a better quality microfiber towel. It seems to help but I can't seem to get them looking as well as I would like. I will clean them in my garage but once I am in the sunlight, I can see all of the streaks that I hate to see. I now have just decided to live with it.
  • guest2011guest2011 Member Posts: 30
    I've used Armor All on my E exterior plastic which was very tough and scratch resistant. Don't like to use chemicals inside the car and don't know of anything on the marker that protects plastic from scratches. I didn't have any scratches in the rear until yesterday when i had a passenger who had a wrist watch on the left hand. Now i have 2 scratches in the door handle. I'm going back to the dealer for windshield replacement and will look at EX if it has better quality interior.

    Try youtube for glass cleaning tips

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVUtdlzrktI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4TBR7TRGJc

    One glass expert gave me wool pads that they use and recommended regular turtle wax. Some tips are so good i wish i had my old car to try them.
  • cuysecocuyseco Member Posts: 45
    Hi,
    I just bought the car a few days ago.
    Anybody had an issue with this model ??
    Thanks
  • defieldingdefielding Member Posts: 35
    It has 360,000km on it (over 200,000miles). Never any problems. The exterior and interior still looks great and is still a great vehicle to drive. This must be some sort of a record, but, believe it or not I am still using the brake pads that came with the CRV from the dealer!! Now mind you it is a manual transmission model and I usually anticipate intersections and role to a stop and gear down to slow down.
  • guest2011guest2011 Member Posts: 30
    no mechanical problems but built quality is meh. it's a ~$25,000 people will always find something, as one service mngr told me. Reminded me when i bought a POS $22,000 chrysler many years ago and service mngr told me same thing. Imagine what BMW, Mercedes, Audio service managers tell their customers. Its a $50-100,000+ dollar car.... if it was a $1,000,000 lambo or bentley or rolls or whatever then we can have expectations. Horrible. For the money we should have expectations and accept nothing but perfection. I used to be a honda fan. Not anymore.
  • mikedogg1mikedogg1 Member Posts: 1
    have the same issue, was told by Honda that it may be the driveshaft. they diagnose this by removing the shaft and driving the car (can be dome with front wheel vehicles.) If the shimmy is still present they will remove axles, one at a time, to see which one it is. Honda uses a donor car to use parts before proceeding.
  • 5biker2755biker275 Member Posts: 1

    I have a 200 CRV with 110,000+ miles. The only problems I have had thus far is the dashboard clock failed a few years ago, and the computer registered a problem which was temporal. my dealer always addresses me by name when I come in for routine maintenance (they have one guy that plugs my license number into their data base and this tells them my name). I am 71 years old, and I hope this car will last me the rest of my driving life!

  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 234,725

    @5biker275 said:
    I have a 200 CRV with 110,000+ miles. The only problems I have had thus far is the dashboard clock failed a few years ago, and the computer registered a problem which was temporal. my dealer always addresses me by name when I come in for routine maintenance (they have one guy that plugs my license number into their data base and this tells them my name). I am 71 years old, and I hope this car will last me the rest of my driving life!

    You left off a digit. What year is it?

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  • newacollnewacoll Member Posts: 1

    How do you release the tether cable in order to replace the fuel cap on a 2006 CRV?

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    edited July 2014

    As I write these words, our 2003 CRV is having the "Big Fix" done!

    We bought it new and it now has a whopping 78,000 miles on it. At 75,000 miles I finally had the brake pads replaced and I was told they could have gone at least another 5000 miles.

    Other than that,only scheduled services have been done.

    Until now....

    For the past few months, I''ve been feeling a clunk in the front suspension at times.

    The A/C compressor has been making some sounds that mean impending doom and at stop lights I can feel my master cylinder bypassing a bit.

    Were the average person to drive this car they probably wouldn't have noticed any of this.

    So, I ordered these parts along with a new A/C condenser/dryer through the internet and a moonlighting Acura tech I know is doing the work. Total cost for everything - 1100.00.

    Now, I'll be ready for the next eleven years/78,000 miles!

    So, today I drive our 2013 CRV that my wife drives and I just don't like certain things about it probably because I rarely drive it.

    Top on my list of "don't likes" would be the electric power steering that feels like I'm "pointing" the car down the road with a joystick. Vague, numb feeling.

    Poor visibility and sight lines compared to the 2003. Hard to determine where my wheels are when making right turns.

    Oh, I know because of rollover standards a lot of new cars have lousy visibility.

    Two more years left on it's lease and I can say we will not be buying it at the end as we planned to.

    Other than that, it's great car and the things that bug me probably wouldn't be noticed by others.

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    EDIT:

    Well, our 2003 CRV has been fixed including a new A/C compressor that it didn't need.

    Turns out the expansion valve is bad which causes the compressor to cycle endlessly. A mis diagnosis by the shop that inspected it.

    Gets fixed next month. another 150.00. No big deal.

  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70

    question on tires: I have an '12 and am planning on replacing the OEM tires soon. I need to replace all 4. This is the first time I have changed tires with a tire montioring system. Anything I should know. Will the tire people try to sell me new valves or whatever and claim they need ot be changed when you change a tire

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    Reusing old valve stems is not a smart thing to do.

  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    My '04 CRV with 170K miles is starting to burn some oil, so I have been using the '12 CRV to do intermittent hauling (ladder, 2x4, nothing crazy) I used to do in the '04. To my surprise the back window of the '12 doesn't open - which was very handy on the '04. Anyway, since it was a short drive, I figured I would just stick it out a little and tie down the door. Again, to my surprise, I could not find anything to tie the rope onto on the door - plenty of places to tie the rope on the car, but no hooks on the door. I ended up just tying the rope from right to left on the outside of the door - the other end to a hook on the inside, which is silly - my other option was to tie it around the door from top to bottom. I don't have a roof rack - anyone have some ideas?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited November 2014
    You could try sticking the ends out the back window, with the 2x4s resting on the front passenger seat floor, assuming you can get the seat back out of the way enough. The ladder though would be too bulky and long for that.

    Sounds like the diagonal tie-down with the interior hood worked fine. Sometimes you can get the end of a bungie to hook into the area around the latch.
  • gillbgillb Member Posts: 50
    I was wondering if anyone could help me understand what's really necessary for my 2014 Honda CRV FWD 30,000 mile service. Prices at dealerships seem to range from $299-$475. From just an oil change, inspections and filter changes to flushing out every fluid in the car. I'm only going to have the vehicle another 7 months/ 7,000 miles or so before turning it in.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Edmunds Car Maintenance Guide says to get an oil and filter change and change your cabin air filter, rotate the tires and check the drive belts. That's it.

    Estimated cost for a random zip code is $133.

    It looks pretty easy to change the cabin air filter yourself.
  • cannell3cannell3 Member Posts: 45
    A couple of random questions, please, about my 2016 Cr-V, EX-L: my car was a dealer swap, and arrived without the front license plate holder attached to the bumper. When I asked the selling dealer about installing it, they stated that they would have to drill through the bumper to install it, and that most people did not want that to happen. So, I am leaving it off, for now. Does anyone have this issue? Also, I am not seeing the green light on the rear view mirror when it is working at night, even though the manual says that I should. Again, the dealer said that they "don't see a problem". Any comments about this? Thank you in advance.
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    I had to have that done (you'll get ticketed if you don't have a front plate displayed). As I recall, they drilled two holes into the bumper and put inserts in that accommodated the license plate screws. Personally, I don't see the big deal, as long as they are using an insert that doesn't allow the screw to move around and gouge itself out, since the bumpers are fiberglass or plastic and the plates cover the hole. Maybe the dealer just wanted to blow you off? I had this done on both a CRV and a Toyota.

    As for the mirror, is it dimming at night and everything displaying like compass if applicable? If so, you are probably fine.
  • Sh880913Sh880913 Member Posts: 1

    After consistently owning Honda products, including the Civic, Accord, and CRV as my first cars, my loyalty has waned due to persistent issues with my 2015 CRV. Experiencing excessive oil consumption at 1 quart per 1000 miles, I sought assistance from the service center, only to be told it's normal. Despite investing $100 in an oil consumption test, the problem persisted, with the service center even disabling the oil sensor. Numerous visits and conversations revealed that the 2015 CRV has a known issue, yet no resolution is offered other than telling me to replace piston rings for $5000. When sharing my experience with the customer service center, they expressed regret and pledged improved service in the future. However, the rising prices of Honda products coupled with declining quality and customer service have led me to the decision that this will be my final Honda car.

    I've been informed that I need to pay $5,000 to repair the piston rings. However, I've noticed Honda consistently framing me for neglecting car maintenance and shifting blame. Given the poor customer service experience, I'm hesitant to invest $5,000 to continue with Honda.

    Laughing at customer issues truly reflects Honda's perspective on its customers.

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