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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying
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Comments
http://vtec.net/forums/one-message?message%5fid=62714
There's no internal trunk release. The hatch door is part of your power locks. Just make sure & push the power-locks button up, walk out, and stick your finger where the end of the hatch door meets the rest of the car, there's an opening there (not too many people know how to open an Integra hatch doors, including mechanics, oil change people, etc.) and move the "latch" to the side (I think it's left). This is how you open the trunk, even if you do use the key, you still have to get your finger under there..
Don't worry about redlining the gears. As long as you don't do it with every single shift or 30 times a day, your engine should last a very long time. I know Integras with 130k mi. that are raced all the time and are still going strong.
As far as tires go, most of the all-season tires, are above average in the wet, and do ok in very light snow conditions. But if we 're talking more than 1/2" of snow, only winter/snow tires work best and that's what I use here in NY from Dec. to the end of March. The best ones are the Michelin Arctic Alpin and the Bridgestone Blizzak. Depending on how many miles you put on the car, you should be able to use them for a couple of seasons or more. After having had those winter tires above, I refuse to use anything but winter tires for the winter. It all depends on how often it snows, and how much it snows where you live. The Bridgestone RE950s that I normally use on my '01 Civic are pretty good in the wet and very light snow. Before that I had 3 sets of Dunlop D60-A2 and they 're excellent in the went and average in light snow. The Dunlops performed much better in the dry, and slightly better in the wet than the Bridgestones, but as the tread went down on the Dunlops so did wet traction. The RE950s are supposed to maintain wet traction even as the tread gets dramatically reduced according to Bridgestone (and Tirerack, which explains their higher price I guess).
I 've been buying tires from Tirerack since 1990-91 before they had a web site. They 've been advertising on car magazines since the late '80's I think.
I used to average 30mpg on the highway, but now with wider wheels & wider ultra performance tires I get around 28mpg highway and about 25 city or 26-27 mixed driving. I also haven't tuned-up the car since I bought it. I think it needs it.. 32k hard, raced driven miles with more than 3 auto-x seasons, I think warrants an early tune-up.
Good luck with your GSR!
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
As far as which is more advantageous in handling, LSD or really good tires, assuming you have an upgraded suspension, which you do (most of us do), I 'd have to say tires because when auto-x racing, I have Type-Rs for breakfast when they 're on street tires and I 'm on R tires. When they have R tires, they really give me a run for my money.. I 've raced my brother's Type-R with Falken Azenis (probably the best street tire out there for autocorss) and right after my GSR on Kumho V700s, and the difference was just too great. The Type-R's handling characteristics and overall feel is almost identical to my GSR's (with the coilovers, 22mm sway, etc.). But without good tires/traction, the LSD can only help so much.. Although I 'm sure you 'd feel the difference immensely with an LSD even if you used stock GSR Michelins, you 'd still be severely limited by the Michelin's lack of adhesion, which makes them brake free way too early after they deafen you with their abundant loud squealing.
To further prove this I 'll speak from personal experience. When I upgraded to the Bridgestone RE730s in June of '00, I was immediately a minimum 1 sec. faster than when I was racing on stock Michelins! No LSD can give you a full second gain on a 40 sec. course. 1/2s yes but nothing close to a full second like I experienced with better tires. I 've seen others easily gain 1.25 secs auto-xing when they switched from their factory tires to Falken Azenis. Keep in mind though, the Azenis are as close as you can come to an R compound tire and only last about 10-15k mi. without being raced, and 5-k when auto-xed.
Now if you 're already using good (not the best) or ZR summer tires, the LSD will definitely benefit you more than going to a slightly better tire. This is how you have to look at it. How great are you tires now or how do they compare with the stickiest street tires out there? If they 're stock or average/below avg. tires, then by all means get some descent tires. If you already have semi-decent tires, go for the LSD.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Oh, I just got an alignment done on my car and the rear is in spec, but the front has -1.6 and -1.7 degrees of camber, but tow and caster are perfect. How should I take care of this little problem of wearing the inside of my tires? Should I get some camber plates (if so, what kind) or should I just rotate them every few thousand miles?
About the tranny, we're going to drop it in about a month (I have a week off, hopefully the tranny will last 'til then) and try to diagnose and fix the problem. Hopefully it's nothing major. Oh, how much do b series trannys usually go for? I'm wondering, just in case my current tansmission is totally unsalvagable come march.
Final thing. Are intakes all basically the same? I ordered a generic CAI off of ebay, and I just wanted to know if it'll give me some more hp (currently running a custom short intake). I know that extensive R&D hasn't gone into designing it, but a tube is a tube, right?
Sometimes keeping the stock air filter benefits your motor, because it doesn't take in fine dust and other particles like the intakes with K&N filters that are less restrictive. I read an article that said over time your motor becomes slower & slower with aftermarket filters and especially K&N, because of the limited filtering they provide as opposed to factory paper filters that keep the air cleaner coming into your engine.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Now I have no clue what my camber was after I installed the coilovers last August but I bet it was 2.0 deg. if not a little more. I don't want it over 2. I 've scheduled a wheel alignment this weekend too. I 've raised the car a little for the winter and I 'm only lowered about 1.5" at the most now, so they should be under 2". I 'll race at this height for a little while then lower it a little more and get another wheel alignment in the beginning of the summer and see what the camber changes are. Hopefully I 'll have my Konis revalved by then too. Don't want to lower the car more until I do that. I spoke to the supervisor at Koni (have talked to this same guy a couple of times in the last year) that 's in charge of rebuilding/revalving the shocks, and he said cars with off the shelf Konis work best when the car is lowered NO more than 1.5".
Anyway I 'll be doing 1 more winter auto-x event in Feb. and I can't wait. I did one in January and it was a lot of fun although you had to restrain your self much more than usual so you wouldn't wheel hop or loop the car around on the cold surface (which I did once). It was 28-32 deg!
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Can anyone:
1) estimate for me the cost of replacing the entire clutch so I know I am not getting ripped off?
2)give me the name of a REPUTABLE mechanic that can fix an Acura/Honda in the Staten Island, NY or Central New Jersey Area?
I have had some real beauties in the last year. One guy wanted to charge me $280 to change a brake light switch. I ended up paying $80 after buying the part at Acura Dealer and having Pep Boys put it in. Also, one mechanic changed my radiator and left the plastic on. I over heated the next morning and he wanted to charge me AGAIN. I am banned from that place after the argument I had...like I was going to go back. Thanks in advance for any help.
You might want to buy an aftermarket clutch from ACT, their street version. They make excellent clutches and they 're less $$ than Acura OEM. The parts will cost you around $330.
Go to www.honda-tech.com forum. Register and get a username & pw. Do a search first on shops in the NY/NJ area. If can't find anything then post a message asking the guys there for a reputable Honda/Acura shop that is good on tranny & clutch work. Labor at most these shops usually goes for $400, because they have to drop the tranny to install the clutch. If you want better performance, you can install an ACT or Fidanza lightweight flywheel at the same time, while the tranny is down.. You 'll be able to get all the info at honda-tech. I know there are a couple of shops in Central-to-North Jersey too. I live in Upstate NY, 55min-1hr north of the GWB.
Have you ever changed your MTF - Manual tranny fluid? It should be changed every couple of years. I think this won't help you now because it sounds like the damage is already done. But GET IT done when they replace your clutch or before that. Also look into replacing the clutch fluid.
My '99 GSR only has 32k mi. but I 've been racing it for more than 3yrs. Towards the end of last summer, I noticed 2nd gear was grinding a little more than usual and it was constant, and 3d gear started grinding a little for the first time. I replaced the tranny fluid and every gear now shifts better, smoother & a bit faster, with no grinding. Gotta replace your fluids regularly regardless of mileage! Same with brake fluid, every 2-3yrs (under normal driving conditions) regardless of mileage. Most fluids break down & lose their properties with time, not with mileage.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The Hawk HP+ pads on my '01 Civic are squealing a lot lately. They have about 10k mi. on them but I honestly don't use the brakes much because 99.5% of my commute is highway. There 's still a good amount of pad left. I 'd say 80-90% of the pad is still there. They squealed a little when they were new but now are doing it more. They also seem to grind some times depending on how cold the temps are. Have you experienced the same thing with yours on the GSR? Is the "grinding" and squealing what they mean when they say these pads are a bit noisy on H/T?
I 'm going to try and replace the brake fluid this weekend. Hopefully I 'll see an improvement. I got 59K mi. on the Civic already. I 've only had 1.5yrs!
I 'm thinking of getting a DC Sports JDM Header (Type-R) for my car? Will I need to get a 2.5" CAT as well? or do any other modifications to make it fit? Does it mount fine on the motor? I 'd like to get a Carsound CAT and probably a cat-back exhaust. I 'm also seriously thinking of getting the AEM V2. Just waiting for prices to go down and for someone to post some dyno results. They 're averaging $240 right now which is more money than I ever saw the original AEM go for.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Oh, and you can count me in as someone who's VERY interested in the RX-8, too.
The RX-8 sounds very appealing especially if it weighs 2800lbs or less like some people are saying. The 350Z doesn't do much for me for some reason. It's got plenty of power & torque but I 've seen 2 of them auto-x (2-3 events) and I beat both their times. I 've also read that the 350Z's suspension is more tuned for comfort and the street so that 's a big turn off for me. If the RX-8 handles the same or better than the last gen. then it 'll be a winner, especially if they keep the weight down which they are. I hear it has low torque though.. oh well, I guess you can't have a perfect car for $30K. I 'm still playing with the idea of buying a used S2000 in a year or so. They make a great auto-x car and are lots of fun. With stock tires and everything they still manage a .90-.91g at the skidpad and 70+mph through the magazine's slaloms which is higher than Type-R & new Miatas. The S2K only weighs 2800lbs and is still a very capable car amongst all these new ones coming out. High 5's in 0-60 is also very noble.
I still don't know how the RX-8's reliability will be because the RX-7's was hit or miss or average at best but I 'm very interested in it. I always wanted an RX-7 up until a couple of years ago. It was the turbo failure/replacement that scared me away every time.
So how is your Quaife holding up on the Prelude?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Per Automobile mag, the RX-8 6spd weighs in at 3020lbs. with a full tank of gas. The model thay tested had the moonroof (no thanks) and leather (yuck), but I'm not sure if it had the power seat. I'm betting that Mazda has sorted out the rotary bugs with the Renesis, because they don't have much going for them as a company without the rotary.
To me, the 350Z feels more like a GT than a track car. Nose heavy and softer damping than I had expected. Good ratios in the tranny, though. To bad it sounds like a tractor when you rev it above 4500rpm.
Enjoying your Prelude? You should look into a Quaife LSD like himiler put in his Lude.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I just saw a new full blown road test of the RX-8 in C&D. Actually it was a comparison. RX-8, Infiniti G350 coupe (with the 350Z motor) & Mustang Cobra (??). RX-8 came in first although it was almost 1.3s slower than the Cobra in 0-60. Now I didn't read the whole article because I was pressed for time, but I saw the specs and the performance stats. RX-8 did 0-60 in 5.9s and 1/4 mi. 14.7s but they had to launch it at 6-7K RPM!! Hmm.. a Type-R can do almost that when launched at 6K RPM (remember, 300+lbs lighter than RX8). Torque is only 159ft-lbs. Weight they said was 2920lbs but that's probably with an empty tank of gas. Handling was excellent: .91g in the skidpad and 73mph through the slalom!! What surprised me the most, was that they said you can fit 2 adults in the back. I didn't expect that.. The car also looked a little bigger than RX-7 and it has a pretty long wheelbase which made the ride more comfortable around town. It was 106.x in. I believe prices started at $28K but I have a feeling dealers will "make up" prices like they 're doing with the 350Z. To summarize, this car doesn't seem to be a pure sports car like the RX-7 was. Although it handles great, the 2920-3,000lb weight is a bit disappointing and the 4 seat capability doesn't appeal to me that much. I guess I was expecting a 2 seater or 2+2 (the ones you can't fit anyone in the back) and a 2800lb car at most. The RX-8 I think would be a great car if it had another 50-70 more torque or 30-40 more HP. You could see where its weakness was, power. In the rolling start from 5-60mph, it was considerably slower than all the others. Where the other 2 cars where only .6-.7s slower in the rolling start, the RX-8 was 1.6s slower! It did it in 7.5s because they couldn't do a 6K RPM launch when the car is rolling at 5mph. Most of us don't launch our cars at 6-7K RPM and it would mean that I 'd be buying a 7sec. car instead of a sub-six one.. I don't know.. My feelings are mixed about this one too. Although it seems it would make a great auto-x car! Traction & adhesion is not where this car lacks.. that's the good news and usually, for me, it is more important than power, but when paying $30K for a car, it be nice to have both. The S2000 still looks very attractive to me because it barely weighs 2800lbs and has the same stats or better than the RX-8. Very comparable anyway. Don't know, I still really like the way the S2K looks. RX-8 looks fresh but C&D's pictures didn't seem to elevate my temperature much.. although I like it better than the 350Z as far as looks go. I think I 'm getting really picky in my "old age" :=)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I don't drag race, so the fact that the RX-8 is down on torque doesn't bug me. Like you, I'm far more interested in steering response and how much speed I can carry thru corners.
Harry: I love my Prelude more and more every time I drive it. Although I don't have the LSD like Himiler does to help me get started in the white & wet stuff, my ATTS does an excellent job at pulling me around corners at speeds well above the posted limit. I love to pull away from toll plazas and trying to keep the VTEC cam engaged. My common sense pulls me back before the car does. The winter has been pretty rough to it though. I ran over a steel plate that the city uses to cover large potholes/open manholes and ended up with a popped tire, cracked rim, bent RR ball joint, bent RR lower control arm, twisted rear stabalizer bar, my exhaust severed from the resonator back and I had to have a new pipe fabircated (It actually has better low end throttle response due to the higher grade steel), and part of my rear bumper is hanging off. My Prelude has actually been sidelined for about 4 weeks due to the snow storm and the subsequent potholes. I've been driving (if you can call it that) my sister's Automatic Jetta VR6 (and Himiler has been a good sport about listening to me moan, whine, and complain about it). I plan to get it sometime this week or by this weekend the latest.
Enjoy your GSR while you can. As much as you love it you'll have to replace it with something else (like Himiler and I will have to do to our beloved Preludes one day in the very distant future).
If you're looking for something purer than the RX8, then hang on to your GSR for a while longer and see if the RX8 sells well. If it does, then I'll bet the marketing guys as well as the bean counters at Mazda (Read Ford) might send an RX7 or RX8 Coupe our way.
The numbers in the magazines do look impressive. All the journalists seem to rave about the car. Car and Driver tested it against The Mustang Cobra and G35 Coupe as you mentioned while Automobile tested it against a 330i and a 350Z. I'm looking at the numbers this way: It has 50 more horsepower and 2 more lb/ft of torque than my Prelude Type SH. It is RWD (always a +), weighs about 102lbs less than my Prelude. I think we're all going to have to drive this car to get our impressions right.
You also have different needs than Himiler and I dur to the fact that you autocross your GSR on a regular basis.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Anyway, I think the RX-8 should be well put together and you 're right, I tend to look at a lot of cars from an autocross racing perspective, low curb weight, small wheelbase, no sunroof, etc. I 'm sure it's a great car.
My GSR sat in the driveway for over a month too buried in snow. I just finally drove it this past weekend which was the only nice wknd we 've had in about 2 mos! I just couldn't help but going left & right with it in the backroads like the NASCAR cars do while they follow the pace car just before a race. Very responsive steering & stays nice & flat (helps to have coilovers, Konis, etc.). I missed driving it and had almost forgotten that it handles 10 times better than my '01 Civic and pulls .2g's more. I then drove back to the house, put my son in the GSR, and drove 55mi. to visit my brother & his new fiance in his new house in Ft.Lee/NJ. I averaged 65mph there and back. I got about 30mpg. I couldn't believe I could still get decent gas mileage after almost 4yrs of racing. Of course I hadn't driven the car nicely in a long time either, and have not gotten more than 27-28mpg in over a year. I enjoyed the open road and didn't even really step on it or beat the car. Only hit VTEC twice or so on the ramps getting on the Palisades Parkway. Yes, enjoy the open road as much as you can! Because you never know when we 'll have crappy winters like this one that doesn't want to end..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
One of the Mags tested all of the M cars against one another and picked the M Coupe as their M car of choice.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Another reason I 'm considering a used S2000 is that it has been an SCCA class winner for the last 2-3yrs (A Stock). This is a huge achievement for Honda because the S2000s go up against dozens of Porsche Boxters in the same class every year at the SCCA National Championships. Some of these Boxter drivers were ex-National champs themselves before the S2K came out or National caliber drivers. The idea of owning a $20-25K used Honda that can beat $50K Boxters really appeals to me :-)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I just bought an acura integra LS,1998.
the milage is 105,000, but the timing
belt hasn't yet been replaced.
The inspector of a car repair told me
that it's really expensive to repair
the cylinder if the timing belt isn't
replaced,and the price of replacing
the timing belt is about $450. I don't
know whether I should replace it right
now or I can drive a little more.
Do you have any advice?
thanks a lot.
xiuxu
Three weeks later, he called to inform me that the belt had broken, causing the valves to impact and bend to the tune of $2100.
Having owned more than a few Honda/Acura cars since this episode, I've been fairly religious about swapping the belt every 90K, and have had no problems.
I'd get it done sooner rather than later.
I am aware that these are 2 different cars, but just wanted to see what other's had to say about giving up a 2000 GS-R (8k miles) for a 2003 Accord EX Coupe. Thanks in advance.
it seems that I'd better replace the timing
belt right now.It sounds terrible.
xiuxu
Any advice on buying a used integra?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Lots of consumer reports state that integras are unreliable and have lots of problems, my sister owns an LS and shes been having lots of problems with it.
So what car do you think I should go for? gs-r or related coupe type?
Anyway, I've just gotten my skunk2 camberkit in, and it's a beauty. I can't wait to get my camber back, or close to, 0 degrees. I've had my kumho 712's on for about 1000 miles and I've already taken off about a quarter inch of tread on the inside 2 inches of the tread. Before raceday, though, I'll set the camber to -2 degrees or so. Is that a good idea? or should I just leave it alone?
vegoen, I agree with harry. The gsr is the best for the money. It has good performance, a wealth of aftermarket support, and it's a lot cheaper and more available than a type r. Also, the gsr and type r have vtec, not vtech. vtech is a phone manufacuter and vtec, well, you know what vtec is.
About the reliability of integras, there really isn't much of a problem with them. The only things that went bad on my car were my tanny and clutch, and that was my fault. I downshifted VERY poorly and destroyed the clutch, and in turn, destroyed the main shaft bearing. I replaced both, and the car is running very well. Oh, the water pump and timing belt should be replaced between 60-90000 miles. The integras don't have a tendency to break as long as you do the routine maintainence and don't do anything stupid like I did.
Another friend of mine that has been racing his '00 GSR for over 2yrs, has had no problems wiht his. He has 150k hard driven miles on the car! He 's a nut and will drive hundreds of miles just to autocross race and goes around to all the clubs in 3-4 states. He 's even gone down to South & North Carolina from his home state New Jersey, so that's how he piles the miles on.
I believe my good "forum" friend Himiler was implying that you could be very young (compared to us) and inexperienced with cars, since you mispelled VTEC and called the Integra "unreliable" which is not. Those are usually signs of a teenager looking to buy his first car, who may not be of age to drive yet. We 've seen a few here on the board which doesn't mean anything, and I don't think Himiler meant anything by it. It just that I would probably address a 15yr old different than I would an 18+ yr old..
Anyway, I think your question has been answered by both me & Garados (how 've you been buddy?), as far as which Integra offers the most performance for the least $$.
And finally we are all car enthousiasts here and most of us have modifications done to our cars and belong to race clubs or Motorsports clubs.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Just make sure you when you get the wheel alignment that you set the toe to 0 or very close to it, otherwise you 'll go through those tires very quickly. It's toe that kills your tires, not camber.
I thought you were going for the Falken Azenis.. Oh well. If you decide to get really competitive, after your Kumho 712s are gone, get a set of Azenis. You 'll shave 3/4-1sec from your times! I know many drivers that have upgraded from the 712 to the Falkens and they say there's no comparison - immediate noticeable results.
Talking about tread gone.. I 've only done 2 events with my V700s (R compound) and they look like they 've been through hell and back, because both events I did with this BMW club that designs relatively fast courses with many long sweepers (we often hit 60+mph), but the lot surface is so rough and chews up tires fast! Well plus I had to really push the tires to come in 1st both times too :-) Those 330s and Z3s are getting awefully close to me but for some reason I 'm blowing all the Type-Rs away so far this season. Probably because I lowered the car a little more and I 'm trying a different approach with the Konis.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I have the kit installed on the fronts only. The rear camber is adjustable by replacing a bolt and adding/removing washers. Oh, it could just be me, but since the fronts have very little camber or toe, the car handles better than before... I don't know what the deal is, but I can take turns faster and it's easier to keep the car stable during the turn. I don't know what the deal is.
About your events, 60+ mph? with a rough surface? what a bad combination x_X especially for r-compounds. Did you get your yellows re-valved? or is your approach different to their stiffness setting?
The wheels that I have now are 16's and the azenis (215/45/16) cost a lot for them, so I don't know if I'll be upgrading in the near future. I think I'll try the yokohama avs es300 next, because of the reviews they are getting on h-t. Hmm, thinking about that now, maybe I should just get a set of 14" steelies, alloys, or something and get the azenis for those and use my 16's as daily drivers.
About 14" wheels, I've come across a set of them off a miata and they fit over the caliper, but I tried them on, and the center bore isn't big enough to fit over that lip on the hub. The lip is around the axle nut and inside the lug studs. Would it be safe to bore the inside hole of teh tire out just enough so that they'll fit? Or should I just take a dremel and grind that lip down?
Oh man, you won't believe what happened to the local scca. We had events once a month either in my home town, or the city just north of here. In the other city, we used the state police training center, but now, there is a new rule adopted by the police. "The Santa Fe Academy has adopted a new policy which closes the track for everyone other than police use. Our clubs are investigating alternative sites" So, we have to go find a new place to set up courses, but until then, there is noplace to run except the local track (no events for a while) and the mountain, but that's not very safe. The last event was last Sunday, and the next event is on June 29 >=O
Only1, yes, I thought that fuel pumps would be in the front myself, but after verbally describing the location of the part, my local dealer had said that fuel pumps are indeed within the area I described. I also am familiar with exhaust noises, but aren't close to what I'm hearing now. It is so weird. I first have to replicate the noise again before taking it in. Yesterday I started the car for about 5 minutes (idling) and no sound came out when I turned it off. I may have to drive it (so I will actually step on the gas pedal) and see if the noise shows up again when it gets parked. If I can successfully make the sound come out a few times, then I know that I can make it happen at the dealership. Dealer did say that they hardly have seen GS-R pumps failing so they too are in the dark. Yes, it is still under warranty since it only has 8k miles. And yes I will keep you guys updated - least I can do for you all.
As far as the Miata wheels go, you should know that I 'm purely a bolt-on guy. I don't like it when I have to "bore-down", grind, bend anything, etc. So if it were me I 'd look for wheels that would fit without any problems. I 'm probably going to get some 13x8" steelies that stick out of the fenders for the SCCA clubs which I race in DSP. Other non-SCCA clubs don't like wheels or tires that extend beyond the fender and puts those cars in a RACE class! So for those I use my Kosei K1 15x7".
I haven't got the Konis revalved yet because there 's going to be more layoffs in my company in a month or so we 're told, so I 'm holding off on mods again. I was ready to spend a couple of grand $$ on an LSD, flywheel & Koni revalve, but I 'm not spending another dime now until I know my job situation. If the job market were good, I wouldn't mind, but there are no jobs in this area at all. The IT/Technology sector has been hit pretty hard and there are thousands of people layed off every month, in the NY/NJ/CT area.
If I get good news next month, then I 'll mod the car again.
Hey didn't you say you had 2.0 deg. camber in a previous post? But now you said you have "very little camber"? Meaning very little negative camber? Did you recently get a wheel alignment and adjusted it back to factory settings (~0-1.5deg)? For auto-x, you should have 2-3" negative camber since you have the camber kit.
If your car is lower you inherintly get more negative camber, and the more you lower it, the more negative camber you 'll get, which improves handling.
What SCCA class are you in? I believe the camber kit will throw you out of STS and Street Prepared and put you in Street Modified (SM)!!
Did I tell you I went up against the STS National Champ with an '89 Civic Si and lost by over 1 sec. Actually he was in a lower class at the BMW club I race at sometimes. He was on Falkens but it was 40-48 deg. the whole day and I couldn't get good traction with my R tires. That Civic and its driver (actually 2 drivers, Chris is the National Champ) were awesome! I should be matching him or beating him when the weather warms up and my R tires start sticking.
Here's the link for the results.
http://www.themclub.net/tmc_040603ax.htm
I 'm in E class, he came in 1st in F and he would 've gotten FTD if it weren't for the Open wheel Carts! That Civic weighs only 2100lbs. 400/450lb coilovers with off the shelf Konis. It handled amazingly well and at the hands of a National Champ it looked pretty good!
BTW, check out my brother who is in the same class as me with his Type-R :-)
At least 1-2 other Type-Rs volunteered to move up to class D because they didn't want to go up against me :-) Check their times in class D.. heheh, I 'm going to call my self the Type-R killer :-)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I'm in STS-N right now, so I'm not worried about teh class. In november, when my novice status is gone, I'll probably be moved up to a harder class... oh well. The point is to have fun ^_^
Today, I'm going to race my friend (an scca instructor) at the track. We decided to rent it for an hour and just have fun. I can't wait ^_^
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)