Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

1246789

Comments

  • ingeorgiaingeorgia Member Posts: 2
    162,000 miles, lots on the interstate from Texas to Manhattan to Georgia. New tranny at 135,000, new wheel bearings front at 138,000, left front tie rod at 139,000, new struts at 125,000. Excessive wear of front brake pads attributed to the ABS system not working properly, too much pressure toward the front not enough toward the rear. Figured this out at 75,000 miles, the right rear piston for the brake never moved, brake shoe never touched the drum for 30,000 miles. So much for consistent service within the Chrysler dealer community, stay with 5 star dealers. Third radiator cap, they love to slow leak, after maket cap works better than the OEM version. Don't know why but the original battery still works. Top coming loose, threading, fixed myself with tools from a leather shop for canvas stitching and waxed thread. Dash lights went on and off starting at 55,000 miles finally went out at 100,000. Replaced the instrument cluster, known problem for Chrysler, amazing they know this after your warranty expires. I really like the body style in compaison to the new ones, too much chrome on the new ones. (Make the Chrysler logos smaller guys! ) Keep the public guessing who makes the car. Mine is a blue/violet color changes color during the day. Am debating toward keeping it or finding another convertible, they can keep the new Sebrings. The motor is still strong in this one, drove from Manhattan to Panama City, FL in 16.5 hours, get 430-460 miles out of a tank. Change your OIL!!! Water leaks in a car wash or rain, get used to it. Can stop some of the leaks using black automotive caulk or for lots of money replace all the rubber trim on the windows. Replaced the steel wheels with America Racing alloys, improves braking and handling. The struts replaced are the gas version, handling is improved. Low idle, oil light comes on due to engine adjustments, if you turn on the AC the engine idles correctly. Problem with computer. If you press the panic button on the remote the system does not reset through the passenger lock you have to remove the relays and wait 4 mintues, well at least the car has character.
    ingeorgia
  • ingeorgiaingeorgia Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    Plan on replacing the instrument cluster for $300
  • rp98rp98 Member Posts: 3
    Check your catalytic converter. When the element inside the converter starts to break up, it rattles around in the converter and sounds like stones or maybe popcorn. The stalling might be an outcrop of the converter clogging. When the car is cool, (the converter gets VERY hot) try lightly tapping on the converter and see if you here the rattling noise. If you do this might be part of the problem. Worth a try.
  • skibjrskibjr Member Posts: 2
    I've had this problem with my '97 Sebring since I bought it last November. I was dreading bringing her into the dealer and paying $80.00/hr. plus inflated parts charges when I thought I'd check the Web to see if, just possibly, any other Sebring owners had come across this issue. Suffice it to say, this is probably the most common problem with '97 Sebrings, and probably many other models/years sharing this particular instrument cluster's circuitry.

    Due to some very kind forum members who left detailed instructions regarding how to fix this issue, I decided to give it a try. Since many members have expressed an interest in some pictures of the procedure, I thought I'd take a few while I was at it, and post them if I was successful.

    Well, it's actually a very simple procedure, and only took me about 90 minutes, including the extra time to take the pix. My odometer and tach have worked flawlessly ever since. You may want to pick up a set of Torx screwdrivers or a set of hex-key wrenches before you start - you'll need them. You'll also need a small soldering iron, some 60-40 rosin core solder, some rubbing alcohol, and a few cotton swabs. I've shamelessly plagiarized the best of the posted procedures I used, added a few of my own observations, and distilled them into a pictorial step-by-step at the following link:

    http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm

    Good luck!!
  • claudetteclaudette Member Posts: 3
    Ditto: I have a 2000 Sebring same problem cruise control will not engage. Did you ever fix your vehicle?
  • sebring5sebring5 Member Posts: 4
    Greetings:

    Recently, the electrol-luminescent lights have not come on when I turn on my headlights. The rest of the instrument panel lights up normally but the cluster stays dark. Typically, the cluster remains dark and then after a couple of minutes it lights up normally. Last week it didn't light at all. The multiple turn stalk operates normally and all the relevant fuses are good. Before I get robbed by the dealer I was wondering if anyone else had a similar problem and what the fix and cost were. Thanks,

    Sebring5
  • michael21michael21 Member Posts: 1
    HI,

    Does anyone know how many driving miles it takes to reset the ODB on a 1998 Chrysler Sebring Couple 6 cyl once the battery has been disconnected?

    I tried to get my Sebring emmissions tested and my ODB was reset by removing and replacing the battery cable. The Emissions dude said that I had to drive the car for a while before it could be read again. He said it could be 30 miles, 150 miles, or perhaps so many highway miles - that it varies car to car. Seeing he will charge me the 3rd time I cime back I want to make sure that I have driven the car properly to rest teh ODB.
  • prhoadsprhoads Member Posts: 2
    Mssrs. Cox, Peters and Wright;

    First, let me thank you gentlemen for the great solution shown regrding the tach and odometer intermitentcy on my '97 Sebring. It's at about 97K. miles, and these features began having problems at about 60K. mi. The photosequence of repair should get some kind of reward- it was easy to follow, clear, and I did the fix in under an hour. Only problem is that I solved only half of the problem- the tach works great but the odometer/gear selection quadrant is black-nada. what did I do wrong? I must confess that when I soldered the connections on the back side of the p.c. board I may have soldered a bridge between the right three pinouts (viewing from behind) which may have grounded the indicator panel. Anyone have any experience/suggestions? Should I change the resistors in case they went bad?

    Anyway, thanks again for the great help, and I'll be watching for any responses.
  • myoungmyoung Member Posts: 1
    hi my daughters car is doing the exact same things as you described. she drive 2000 sebring convertible. hers started the stalling then the loud clanking or like something loose or bouncing around inside noise. i took ours to two mechanics one said it was a rod the other said it was the flywheel. then i took to dealer and he says fly wheel is causing all the symptoms. they are in the process of fixing it now. have you had yours fixed yet and if so what was the remedy. thanks mary :cry: :confuse:
  • vabockvabock Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. In addition, I have noticed that the release button for the trunk does not work inside the console. The switches are not getting any power. I hot wired the motor for the top and it still works fine. Any ideas???
  • d2md2m Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone replaced the radiator in a 96-98 V6 Sebring?
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to jfallon@edmunds.com.
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • tony21tony21 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '97 LXI 2.5 liter "N" code engine. I find the car just ok. Changing radio stations, take your eyes off the road because its mounted to low. Also the shifter is in the way of the cd slot. The radio and the environmental controls should have been swapped. I find the drivers seat uncomfortable on long trips but the car feels good on the open road. Faster you go the better it feels. To replace the spark plugs (96,000 miles) the bank next to the firewall requires the upper intake manifold to be removed. Also to change the belts is a major hassle because you can't get a socket on the nut because the wheel well is to close. Maybe I should cut a hole? I find the car adequate but I don't believe I will get another.
  • mom3402mom3402 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Chrysler Sebring 126000 miles. I have been having nothing but problems with this car lately. Now, I am having problems with the car stalling out periodically when driving, when you give it gas it putters off and has a hard time kicking into gear, it shutters and sputters while driving like its misfiring. When at a light it idles high and low like it wants to cut off. I read that you can get trouble codes by turning the key on and off and then read the flashing lights. In doing so, I received codes 12, 21 and 43. Please let me know what the problem(s) could be. I AM DESPERATE HERE!!!!! :cry:
  • jp3287jp3287 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Sebring nice car except for one problem. On the dash the gear indicator and odometer (which are electronic) are flashing like a strobe light. Took it in and had the multi-function switch replaced with out results. Wondering if anyone would have some suggestions or experience with this problem.
  • toomanycarstoomanycars Member Posts: 1
    Daily driver is a 1997 Sebring JX Conv. Have had none but standard maintenance expenses. I like this car. What has recently happened is the turn signals, both directions, will intermittently stop working, then function again. This happens regardless of conditions. I presume it is a problem in the switch. Am I correct?, Hoping to avoid dealer charges. Is this a difficult replacement in this car? Am familiar with repair procedures on my 60's and 70s vintage old iron. Contemporary cars do pose difficult repairs, The day of the shade tree mechanic, on new cars, is long gone. Thanks for any advice/help
  • t_sebringlx03t_sebringlx03 Member Posts: 3
    It seems to be fixed. It required three separate trips to the dealership. The first time they replaced the cruise control module. The second time they replaced the cruise control module again, assuming the first new one was faulty. The third time they rewired the cruise control circuitry. They said my brake pedal was fine. I'm not sure which actually "fixed" the problem. It has only happened once since the third repair, and fortunately for me, it was all covered under the 36k warranty.
  • bornprogrammerbornprogrammer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 chrysler sebring convertable

    I went to change the radiator fluid last weekend and had a unpleasant suprise. Where the heck is the radiator cap and the fluid release valve? Its all covered by plastic I guess. My only conclusion is that I just got pimped by chysler because they want to force me to go to the dealer.

    Where do I find the radiator cap and relase valve?
  • silver2002silver2002 Member Posts: 2
    :( Well seems as if the problem that I am having is something of a known problem by chrysler, there is a TSB report on the problem, and seeing how I bought my sebring used, from a second hand dealer, and I am way out of warranty and there so far been no hope for help on replacing the part in question witch could cost more then I could pay, as of now I am all out of hope and DESPERATE for help or answers, Once again thank you for anything, Well till there is more news,
    :( Jason :(
  • meggozcarmeggozcar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Sebring - Auto Transmission. Over the past 6 months, the car has had a squealing noise - although it is not a regular thing. I notice it mostly when the temp. outside is cold and the problem seems to be worse if the heat in the car is turned on. It also goes away after letting the car warm up. I have brought this to the dealer and they said they didn't hear the squeal (and that therefore there is nothing wrong). I'm ready to get rid of this car - but want to see if the "squeal" needs to be fixed first. Any help would be great!

    :shades:
  • kalomankaloman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97' Sebring with 43,000 miles that had the same codes exactly. A local smog/repair shop found a bad downstream O2 sensor and a leaky EGR Valve. We replaced both, they cleared the codes and it smogged fine. It :) also stalled occaisionaly (sp?) wich is, of course, terrifying if it happens in a bad place. Good luck
  • b62duckb62duck Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Sebring got it used about a year ago. 6 months in to owning it, it would not turn over when I would try to start it. I went out 2 hours later and it started, I took it to my mechanic and he had it for a week tested everything and said that the car was fine starter, fuel pump all great, but that my anti-theft feature was going out. This is the first I have heard of that, I have read all the fourms and noone has mentioned an antitheft feature. It will cost me 600.00 just for the part and that is not including labor. He told me that if I rolled up my windows locked the doors and then unlocked it with the key it would start, up to this point that has worked, but now that is not fixing it. Has anyone head or this? Any way to disable it?
  • lowellmetrolowellmetro Member Posts: 5
    How do you adjust the rear window in a Chrysler Sebring? My rear glass "sags" or "droops"
  • lowellmetrolowellmetro Member Posts: 5
    *nfm
  • ronorono Member Posts: 1
    Exact same problem! 98 sebring limited conv. Bought the car used several months ago! All of the panel displays come on and then will not start. Does nothing. Tried the windows and door solution but nothing. Very interested in seeing if anyone has an answer to the fix. Thanks for any info!
  • mmoyermmoyer Member Posts: 5
    Air conditioning. Great car, but the ac just won't put out - and hasn't since I bought it in '02. I know - whay do I need it with the top down? It's 100 here in St. Louis today!

    It will eventually cool down the interior, but it takes a while to get it really comfortable - much longer than any of our other cars - all V6s, Ford and GM.

    Anyone have a solution? I've checked refrigerant and it is in the proper range. Belt is also good.
  • tanglewoodtanglewood Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Sebring and the A/C is not that great when the temperature is above 95. It helps if you leave the A/C setting on recycle (the bottom one).
  • tanglewoodtanglewood Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like a blocked catalytic converter. Over time the internals get loose and block the exhaust.
  • dennisr1dennisr1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    My wife bought a 1998 Sebring convertible in 1999 with 25000 miles on the clock. It has been a gerat fun car and has now got something like 65000 miles up there with no sign of any real problems bar for the orange fuel pump flashing on the gauge on 3/4 of a tank. The service advisor at our agent has the same problem. We solved it by replacing the sender unit. The main hassle I have with this car is window rattle. Other Sebrings I have driven do not have this problem. I took it to a body shop who replaced some bearings or rollers in the back of no avail. The agent is out of his depth as he isn't too experienced on a) Convertibles and..b) bodies in general. Any experts out there? We're in Mountain View, California.
  • claudetteclaudette Member Posts: 3
    I was driving down the road at about 55 mph in my 2000 Sebring LXI and the car jerked and would not get out of 1st gear...safety feature. Drove directly to the dealer and the diagnostics tells them it could be the selnoid pack ($450). The car has 64,000 miles. Any other thoughts on this?
  • phillyrubephillyrube Member Posts: 5
    Well, in a few words, THEY SUCK!!!!! No real illumination except the 20 feet in front of the car.....it's better using the foglights and lowbeams over the high beams. My Ram pickup has brighter parking lights than these headlights. Drove with highs on for an hour and no one blinked me as blinding them. Lens all appear bright and clear, but the beam pattern is none.

    Any ideas on replacements? Already going to pull the crap foglights out and get some good 55w H3s in there. Otherwise, love this car, as long as I don't have to drive at night!!!
  • sickofit2sickofit2 Member Posts: 1
    yes I can tell you how to fix it for 12 dollars, just look under the hood .driver side ,
    on firewall.there are three resistors side by side / take out the center resistor ,
    replace . it will correct your alarm problem. you should see a green light come on when you lock it and close the door . also make sure your door adjar (red light)
    located @top right of dash panel . I own a 97 lxi sebring coupe. my car was acting up sometimes . it was a nightmare .it took me two mounths to find the resistor was out ( it cost $12.00 ). after i changed the distributer,cap ,rotor,plugs
    cranck shaft sensor.and the (ecm) which is the main brain for the car . it was'nt
    out either.
  • chazthefixitmachazthefixitma Member Posts: 1
    Thanks Russell I followed the above directions above on my 1996 Sebring JX and I couldn't be happier with the result whole thing took about an hour from disassemble to reassemble.

    ChazTheFixItMAn
  • claudetteclaudette Member Posts: 3
    Bigdogvt,

    I just got my 2000 Sebring out of the shop after it being there for a week. See msg 274 for problem. Anyway, they replaced the solenoid pack and the transmission controller....$1000. Had to rent a car to get back and forth so that set me back $300. What an expensive week and what a way to celebrate the 4th of July.
  • jets806jets806 Member Posts: 2
    a/c and heat only work on highest setting.any comments or suggestions welcome.trying to find cheapest way to fix it without paying to much.
  • lilonelilone Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2003 Sebring LX Sedan and it is already giving me a problem. When I drive long distances...like over 45 minutes at a time I start to hear a "clicking" noise...it sounds like it is coming from the driver's side strut area...it does it for a few minutes then it stops. The car is still under warranty but it is frustrating considering I have only had this car for 2 weeks. It starting doing this a not even a week after I bought it. Does anyone know what the problem could possibly be so I can have some idea what to tell them when I bring it in to get fixed? Has anyone had a similar problem? Give me some feedback PLEASE!

    Frustrated Owner,
    LiLoNe!
  • wwatsonwwatson Member Posts: 1
    I have an '01 and the same thing is happening... I took it to Midas to have the AC recharged and they say that it is in the heater control panel. The panel that controls the three dials.... heat, fan speed and vents etc...

    Said that it need to be replaced. I called the dealership on the part becuase no one else has one. The quoted me $113. But he said there was a bulletin about this part... something about re-programing them.

    Don't know... think I am going to just buy the panel and see if that works
  • jackb1jackb1 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Sebring Jxi Convertible starts just fine, but immediately begins to idle rough. This continues for about 30 seconds to a minute and then the idle evens out and the car runs fine. I have replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and the problem still exists. Please send me any advice as to how to correct the problem. My 1998 Sebring Limited has NEVER idled like this one. They both have approx 54000 miles. HELP!
  • chryslerdudechryslerdude Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Sebring won't turn over but the radio, horn, and everything works. It's weird but what's even more weird is that I'll switch a fuse under the hood and it will work. Please help me because I've done this all year and my mechanic has no idea what's wrong. Thanks for the help!
  • eph1eph1 Member Posts: 1
    Any update on this issue or does Sebring5 get robbed by a dealer? Anyone know the problem and/or solution here
  • peachy12peachy12 Member Posts: 1
    Sorry to hear about all the problems with the Sebring. I myself have been experiencing problems since I purchased mine. I bought a used 2002 Sebring LX with only 21,000 miles the end of January 2005. I also purchased the extended Ultra Warranty with only a $50 deductible (and is supposed to cover everything except 3 items....tires, brakes, and windows).

    About 2-months after purchase I was in downtown Atlanta and mine started making a popping noise under the hood but was also felt in the steering at times and it scared me to death. It did it all that afternoon (I live about 45 miles south of Atlanta) then suddenly it stopped as quickly as it started. Right before I took it to the shop (a few days later) my air conditioner also tore up.

    When I took it in I was told it was some sort of "rods" that go up into something and was told the warranty wouldn't cover it. I was also told by the mechanics assistant that it would not hurt the car nor myself that it was simply the rods and car adjusting to the road. I was then told if I wanted it fixed I would have to pay $190 just for the parts plus the labor. So needless to say after being told it really wasn't a problem and I didn't really have $190+ labor I didn't get it fixed. My air conditioner problem was some sort of valve and I only had to pay the $50 deductible to have it repaired.

    Well a few weeks later guess what.......the air conditoner tore up Again! This time I called the salesman that sold me the car really upset. He assured me the car would be repaired again and not cost me a penny plus he would give me a loaner car. Upon taking the car immediately after work I was assured they would take the car right in and find out what was wrong. They called me the next day and said they couldn't find anything wrong and when I picked it up it was working....cold as ice.

    Another few weeks passed by and a friend from work and me went to lunch in my car. On the way the air was ice cold but after eating and getting back into the Sebring the air never would get cold. It was like I had the heater on full blast! I immediately drove to the dealership and demanded a mechanic come out right then. I didn't turn the car off or anything.

    After waiting for 10 minutes one came out and he fiddled with the switch, then popped the hood and said I'll be back in a few minutes. After waiting for another 10 minutes a female worker came over and said the mechanic thought the switch where you turn it off and on was bad and they'd have to order it. I was then told it would be ordered that afternoon (friday). I returned to work and when I went to go home guess what.....the air was working and it did this work not working thing all weekend and I was really ticked then my husband got ticked.

    He called the salesman that monday and gave him an earful. He also told him about the popping under the hood and he told my husband that no knocking noise under the hood is good and he (the salesman) wanted them to check it out again when they worked on the air again. Right after the salesman and my husband talked I got a call from the female worker saying they just had ordered the part for my air that was supposed to be ordered on friday and it should be in by wednesday. Oh did I mention the salesman couldn't find a record of them even checking out the popping noise in the beginning?

    The part came in and I was again given a loaner car to drive. They kept my car for 5 days (2 of them they were closed). When they called to tell me it was ready I was told they replaced the lower left control arm that it is what was popping. I looked that part up and what I found was very "Scary". It said that if this part goes bad...cracks, breaks, crumbles, etc. that it can tear apart and cause a wreck because you will have no control!!!

    Well yesterday is when I got the car back and I have already heard the popping noise several times still. I am driving for a longer distance tomorrow (it seemed that is when mine did it the most) so we'll see how it goes then. I feel sorry for the dealership if it continues to do it once my husband get a hold of them again. We live in middle Georgia and are going in my car to Orlando Florida this coming week for vacation and I have to admit its a scary thought. Don't buy a Chrysler Sebring........I wish I never had bought this car and I never again will own a Chrysler, Dodge, or Jeep product. Buyers Beware.
  • helenamariehelenamarie Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a used and abused Sebring. I bought it on the lot when the lot owner had just received it. He hadn't gotten the chance to look at it very closely, but he was still open to selling it. I took it for a test drive and found that when I was at a stop for awhile, the car would have problems going in and out of gear when I applied pressure to the gas. I have also noticed that the check engine light flashes when I do this. Although it has these problems, I still bought it, I got him to give me a deal that was way below book price. From reading the other comments, Sebrings don't seem to be a good choice as a decent car.
    I was wondering if anybody else has had these problems, and if they could tell me how to fix it, how much it might cost, and any other information I might need about my new used car. Or if I should just give up on this car and go look for a better, more reliable one.
  • scratchscratch Member Posts: 1
    Aurgh! I purchased this car recently with only 120,000 KM on it. Very clean and well looked after. After driving for a week with now problems, went out one morning and it won't start. I'm not getting spark. I can hear the fuel pump running as it should for a couple of seconds when the key is turned to the "on" position. When I do the "on-off-on-off-on" to check ECM codes, I get none. in fact I don't even get the engine light to flash anything. Could it be the ECM is screwy?
  • jed1967jed1967 Member Posts: 6
    Got a '97 Jxi with 117k miles on it. Recently I noticed that after short trips (2-3 miles), when I would go to park the fan would be running. The other day I made two quick 2 mile trips and by about the 3rd mile, I saw my temperature light on. I quick hit the A/C to turn it off and got to where I was going.

    I replaced the radiator cap because it was in pretty bad shape. I'm still running hot, tho - For about the first 2 miles it's fine, but then you'll see the temp gauge move up quickly to the middle of the gauge. Then it'll slowly climb toward H, and it'll hover back and forth between just below H and the middle. And the fan is always running.

    I'm thinking maybe the next step is the thermostat - but darned if I can figure out where the silly thing is. So question 1 is, does this sound like a simple thermo issue? I don't see leaks so I don't think it's the plugs or hoses, and my coolant levels are good. Maybe the water pump? But if it is worth changing the thermo (I already have a new one in a box), can someone tell me where I'd look for it? I thought it was right under the cap assembly but I am stumped.

    Thanks in advance!!
  • spudicspudic Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like a Blower Resistor as your fan still works on high. I just replaced mine last week in a 2003 Sebring - took about 45 minutes. Exact same thing on my Windstar last year. The Blower Resistor retailed for $45.95 Canadian from Chrysler, and required some X-acto knife trimming of the plastic plenum to fit the new part as it is slightly larger than the original. I hope the new part lasts longer as it went 4000km after the 60000km warranty ended. The cutting is apparently explained in a Chrysler Bulletin which the parts guy described to me. Fairly simple job once you get used to working in a confined space under the passenger dash and figure out how to disconnect the wiring. Hope this helps.
  • prodijyprodijy Member Posts: 1
    OK- I know this reply is a lil' late- but I spent a week looking for some help on this particular item myself (didn't find a darn thing to help) & I thought I could pass along what I've learned.
    There simply isn't enough room to pull the whole filter housing out of the engine compartment w/out first removing the band securing the fat air tube to the engine. So just undo the band @ the engine connection (couple turns of a screw), unhook the cables attached to the filter box & anything else that may get yanked when pulling the box out *Except the SENSOR*- I didn't want to risk damaging it so I left it stuck in the air tube and was careful not to yank that tube out entirely. Then you will have the filter housing box & air tube separated from the vehicle but still stuck in the engine compartment (again, except for the sensor). It will take a few minutes of fiddling & adjusting- but you'll have just enough room to push the unit towards the steering column giving you just enough clearance (less than 1") to pull the housing & tube UP & OUT & clear of the engine (there's just enough sensor wire to get it almost clear of the engine compt). Now you can use those snaps to pull the tube clear of the housing & while your in there- why not clean out some of those trappings caught in the dust/leaf trap in the bottom of the air filter housing. As long as you can put it all back together w/ out missing a step you'll be good to go! Hope this helps those who, like me, couldn't find a single article on replacing this item. Good Luck!
  • vagirl78vagirl78 Member Posts: 2
    I am having troubles with my 96 sebring conv.. My car starts up but once I take my foot off of the gas it shuts off. Lights, radio and everything else works. What is this?
  • chattiecathchattiecath Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Touring Convertible. I bought it new last September and have just this week started having a problem. When I put the top down all 4 windows are supposed to go down automatically. The drivers front and passenger back window are staying up. My car is still under warranty so I'll be taking it in but am wondering if anyone else is having this problem.
  • sondeesondee Member Posts: 1
    I just wanted to thank you for posting this information. I bought a 96 Sebring LXI and the next day tried to start it. We had no spark and no answers. I did I web search and found this post. I replaced the middle relay with a standard Bosch relay instead of waiting for my local dealer to special order the "proprietary" relay. It started right up. The only thing that makes the stock relay different is the cuff that attaches to the mount. A zip tie solved that problem. Thanks again for the info and saving me who knows how much money on this issue. My dealer had no idea. The part was $8.
  • nan2nan2 Member Posts: 1
    I'm in serious trouble. My security system is activating and not allowing me to start my car and I was supposed to be at work a half hour ago. I live 15 miles out of town in a remote area. How do I disengage the blankety blank security system?
    Thanks for your immediate help.
This discussion has been closed.